Awesome pointers vid Ed!👌I had the same issue a while back with one of mine locking down after assembly. This looks like a much easier way to make sure it all together right the first time! Props to ya bro!
Yeah l had the same problem.....one problem I did encounter......is that you have to make SURE that the gasket holes are open and not blocked,,,,I pinched a gasket that way,,,,very crucial........to make sure the screw holes are not blocked before buttoning everything down,,,,,I still like the old diffs better,,,these new can be a pain,,,,live and learn.....great vids. Look forward to all your stuff,,,,,🇺🇸👈
7:00 points on the plate are different. I certainly never saw that and its likely what I was missing when trying to get the diff together. I was simply checking fluid levels to ensure it was correct. I couldnt get it back together without it locking up.
Just watched a video on a typical 1:1 LSD. Now it makes a bit of sense. Those 2 larger plates key to the cup and the smaller disk acts as the "clutch", the axial load caused by the sun gears and spider gears trying to separate puts pressure on the "clutch pack" which locks the power to the cup. So, would stand to reason as the plates wear, the LSD effect drops off and you would need to replace them. Guess we will find out the frequency of them as more people put time on them.
That is how the image on the Arrma exploded view on web site for rear diff shows it but official Arrma video shows it built the same way as in this vid.. The only thing not picked up on here is that there is a rounded edge on one side of the plates which should face inside of diff.
im about ready to throw my diff across the room. No matter how many times i watch this video or others and put my diff back together, I cannot get it to turn freely. as soon as I snug down the bolts by hand its nearly locked up. When I put an allen key in the dogbone slot i can get it to turn but its got a ratcheting feel to it.
I got lucky on mine and got them together the old way but I didn’t notice the different shape on the ears. I guess they were right because it works right. Thanks for the info BicketyBam.
Awesome pointers vid Ed!👌I had the same issue a while back with one of mine locking down after assembly. This looks like a much easier way to make sure it all together right the first time! Props to ya bro!
Yeah l had the same problem.....one problem I did encounter......is that you have to make SURE that the gasket holes are open and not blocked,,,,I pinched a gasket that way,,,,very crucial........to make sure the screw holes are not blocked before buttoning everything down,,,,,I still like the old diffs better,,,these new can be a pain,,,,live and learn.....great vids. Look forward to all your stuff,,,,,🇺🇸👈
7:00 points on the plate are different. I certainly never saw that and its likely what I was missing when trying to get the diff together. I was simply checking fluid levels to ensure it was correct. I couldnt get it back together without it locking up.
Would love to find a video explaining how the "limited slip" works in these things and what the purpose of all the holes in them is. Nice video Ed!
Just watched a video on a typical 1:1 LSD. Now it makes a bit of sense. Those 2 larger plates key to the cup and the smaller disk acts as the "clutch", the axial load caused by the sun gears and spider gears trying to separate puts pressure on the "clutch pack" which locks the power to the cup. So, would stand to reason as the plates wear, the LSD effect drops off and you would need to replace them. Guess we will find out the frequency of them as more people put time on them.
That actually looks PROPER! I have seen some do it (Circle,Star,Star) and it works good but isn't proper. This looks better. Thanks.
That is how the image on the Arrma exploded view on web site for rear diff shows it but official Arrma video shows it built the same way as in this vid.. The only thing not picked up on here is that there is a rounded edge on one side of the plates which should face inside of diff.
@@prowler-6666 So, if you want least effect, the circle plate is the first one behind the sungear? Then the two star plates?
im about ready to throw my diff across the room. No matter how many times i watch this video or others and put my diff back together, I cannot get it to turn freely. as soon as I snug down the bolts by hand its nearly locked up. When I put an allen key in the dogbone slot i can get it to turn but its got a ratcheting feel to it.
Always informative & entertaining. Thanks for sharing buddy 👍
I started rebuilding my diffs with the sun gear going in the cup lined up with the cross pins before attaching the lid. Learned that from racing guys😉
I got lucky on mine and got them together the old way but I didn’t notice the different shape on the ears. I guess they were right because it works right. Thanks for the info BicketyBam.
What weight are you running in your front and rear diffs? I was thinking 15k front and 60k rear.
I go heavier in the front. I think I'm running 50k front, 30k rear.
What weight fluids you running on your diffs? Thanks for the info. Going to be doing this soon.
200k center, 50k front, 30k rear
bicketybam I can’t find 200k fluid anywhere?! Any ideas where to find some?
I'm pretty sure I ordered mine from Horizon Hobby.
bicketybam shoot. Yeah their out too. The search continues.
Hey beckrdy do u thing it’s worst buying theses diffs do u see a big deference or would u rather stick with r shimed up diffs
Wait. Why are you reassembling one if yours haven’t broke?
I changed fluid
you should ALWAYS check fluids in the diffs instead of relying on the chinese factory workers to do it correctly.
I tried this and mine is still locked up
Perfect man!
Great video but honestly it seems like a lot of work to me.I have never had a problem with the stock diffs.
I couldn't get them together doing it the other way.
this is a stock diff on many to most of the newer or exb models.