A quick note on the end caps. I’m not sure I’d honestly recommend them. The problem is that the wood will shrink and expand more in one direction than the other, which means that while the table top may move a bit in one direction, the end cap, by virtue of being perpendicular to the rest of the top, will move in the other direction. On my table this has resulted in a bit of a lip. Nothing huge, but not what I hoped for. I’d recommend leaving the wood out for several weeks first, or possibly omitting the end cap altogether. Another option is to create an end cap (for the lip) by cutting off 1.5" from the table top and then attaching that to the bottom of the ends - to help match up the skirts. I attached the end caps with glue and brads at first, followed up with some pocket hole screws from the bottom side. If you're just doing the skirt method, then I'd recommend screwing them in from the bottom using 2.5" countersunk screws. The end cap dimensions (as shown in the plans) are 3’6″ W x 3″ H x 1.5″ D. As for the side skirts, it’s just a 2×4 ripped in half and then glued, tacked and screwed onto the table top. I countersunk all of the screws and that one worked out pretty well. The side skirts are 7’9″ W x 1.5″ H x 1.5″ D.
I make a lot of tables using similar techniques. I've devised a system to allow the cross grain to expand and contract freely without the breadboard ends preventing that from happening. It takes a bit more effort but makes for a stable table top. Also, I always put a few coats of poly on the underside to seal the entire table top and limit the wood movement. The diy plans websites don't often factor that stuff in. I love the rough sawn technique. I'll have to use that!
I came across this video when I started researching how to make a dining room table. I have zero carpentry experience so I wanted something easy, this wasn’t as easy as I was looking for but I was up for the challenge. With your instructions and some google research (and a little guidance from the guys at my local Home Depot) I made a version of this table. It’s far from perfect and may not last me forever but it looks amazing and I did it all by myself! Thanks for your tutorial.
That's so cool to hear, Diana! Congrats on taking this on and finishing it. These types of comments really make the effort that goes into making these videos worthwhile, so thank you for sharing. :)
Fantastic Video!!!! I love the table, the instructions and (I'm geeking out here) but the animation of the lag bolts going into the wood. Very nice touch. I wasn't planning on it but the look of the bandsaw marks really gave it that high-end distressed feel. Gonna go make a sammich with some grey poupon now. Thanks again!
I ended up using 5-1/4 stock for the top. Then finished the edges and end boards with 1-1/2. A little more expensive but you save a lot of time shaping, sanding and getting edges straight. Plus it has far less inclusions in the wood than 2X stock. Also, make sure you lay table top boards out in opposite ring patterns. This will reduce cupping, warping etc. Will post pictures once it is assembled. Great tutorial! Thank you LRN2DIY!
A suggestion, when flattening the top, use a straight/flat 2''X4''X5' with 60 grit paper glued-on, just slide this across the table at different angles to high-lite the lows and highs of the top.. I have used this process myself and am very pleased with the out-come...
You know what man I cherish everyone that cross my path in life you are awesome bro I am going to make this table thank you and have a bless and wonderful life.
Great looking table. I echo the concerns on wook movement. Also, for the cutout on the bottom of the legs you can leave the bottom flat and come back and add small blocks on both sides to create the "cut out". I don't have a bandsaw so that is what I would do.
Excellent idea on the wood block on the bottom. As for the movement of the wood, it's been a little bit of an issue with this table. I think I'd recommend leaving ends flush cut - no caps on them. You just never know how much movement you'll get otherwise.
Great looking table ..... but with all due respect wood movement is definitely going to be an issue for the top. As far as I know kiln dried construction lumber (please tell me you at least used kiln dried lumber) is dried to 19% (it will show either KD, or KD with a number after it to represent the moisture content), all of that said 19% is still way too high, you want to be in the 10%-12%. Bla bla bla, your table top is basically going to explode. Before i knew any of this I did a how to video on a table made from construction lumber ..... then I learned you really cant do that, so I TOOK IT DOWN. Call me if your interested, I can explain most of what you need to know in about 30 minutes. (831)245-7798
LRN2DIY actually you can determine the exact amount of movement - there are expansion rates by wood type available online, and you can calculate how much movement will happen based on humidity swings in your area, type of wood, and size of piece.
Without caps aren't the boards making up the table top more vulnerable to cupping? I thought that along with wood expansion was the point of breadboard ends...
This table is beautiful and will last several generations. I plan on printing out the cut list and modifying it to fit my needs. I.am now a subscriber and look forward to seeing other projects you build. Thanks for the terrific video.
Thanks for the free video. The table looks great! I had to cut down a massive oak tree in my yard (leaning too much towards house). Then I had a sawyer come in to cut it up into pieces. I will use part of your plan to make a table for a relative. I hope to have a table made from my own wood from my own land.
Hey NILS, I just finished this table thanks to you and your video / website. I can't tell you have helpful it has been! Thank you so much! I'd love to send you some pics, please let me know the best way : )
That's awesome! I'd love to see how it came out. You can post in the comments here lrn2diy.com/diy-kitchen-table/ or post to social media and tag @lrn2diy. Thanks!
This was perfect as a vanity desk for me. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMAlHv7-BBWMrPRm5-uEoD6rtdT7SG2Qr Especially the glossy finish. Easy to cleanI was looking for something that wasn't the traditional white and with more of a modern feel. This fit the bill beautifully. I put it together with no problems, by myself in under an hour.Make sure you double check where you place the drawer tracks before screwing down. I had one track that needed to be aligned with different holes than the rest.
I am so happy I came across this video. Looking for a project to try out and this is a perfect start. One question about the finish. After the coats of poly are on and sanded, for the last coat did you just leave it as is? Sand it with a very high grit? I’m curious if there is a sealer that anyone can recommend after the urethane coats have been applied. Thank you so much and can’t wait to get started
Mate, great job and thanks for the multiple tips during your videos. And I'm impressed you were honest about how long you took to build the table. It's important to know that good things take time instead of pressuring ourselves to get it done.
For those who don't have a bandsaw but a table saw..buy a dado set to make the cut out for the base bottoms...make sure you use your table saw sled ...worked perfect for me..if you don'twant to buy a dado set you can still use your table saw sled to make those cuts ,running your board across the blade..does take time but still works...if you don't have a table saw,use a miter saw saw with stop block..making several cuts then clean it out
Great build! An easier way to make the arch on the bottom of the legs if you don't have a band saw - instead of using a long jigsaw blade just make multiple passes with a circular saw and chisel/knock out the chips
Thank you for the band saw tip to create that effect, I've been looking it up for years. I saw a table from "Indonesia" at a Ross once and have been wondering how they did it ever since. Not saying this is how they did it, but it's the closest thing to it that I've come across. 👍
Looks great, but the problem with the big box lumber, is it's still always pretty wet. I made a table with that stuff a few years ago, and it warped like crazy over time. After about 4 years, I took it apart, jointed and planed everything and then put it back together...good to go!
Newbie here. I don't follow you very well regarding the end caps and exactly what to do instead. I can't picture in my mind what you mean by "lip" either. When you say to "leave the wood out". Can it be left inside the house to acclimate to that temp and humidity? Or best left out doors in my shed where there is no temp control? Sorry for all the questions.
Hey Mike, great question. The end caps or bread boards are tricky. My brother actually built this same table from my plans and he did something pretty similar to this: th-cam.com/video/fW4AVb2XDMk/w-d-xo.html. Most people don't have a Festool Domino tool (they're $1500) so dowels will typically do the trick. If you have the time (I'd recommend 6+ weeks) to let the wood adapt and dry a bit, I'd recommend keeping it indoors, near the area where the table will be if possible. My end caps haven't moved much at all after the original settling so if you have the time to assemble everything and let it settle for a while and then shave it smooth (assuming there's some expansion or contraction) then finish it, that will work too. I'd love to hear how it goes!
Our is doing great but we did have some warping on the ends, which is why I recommend using a breadboard style end cap. The problems arise when you try to have boards going in two different directions, which causes problems when the grain swells in opposite directions.
Great looking table! Is the beam at the bottom next to the floor that connects the legs, just for looks or is it structural? Could the table be built without that piece and still be stable?
It does add rigidity and takes some pressure off the legs as far as side to side movement but I imagine omitting it wouldn't make a huge difference. If you end up building one without it I'd love to hear what you think.
@@LRN2DIY Thanks for your quick reply. I'm in the process of designing an outdoor dinig table that I will make with WR Cedar. My wife likes the X table leg style but in most designs there is this beam at the intersection of the x. On every other leg style there is this beam at the bottom and I agree it does take the strain off the legs, just trying to understand how much its needed and my additional cost. I plan to have a footer like yours but since I dont have a band saw to notch out feet, I'll have to cut square feet pads to attach. I also am planning on 4x4s but thinking now about 6x6s. Its always nice to look at a catalog and see something that you like and either can't afford or rather save your money and know that you can make it cheaper and undoubtedly with better materials, not to mention the enjoyment of knowing you made it yourself -Bragging rights included. Thanks again!
@@jasonkeller5732 Sounds like it'll be a great looking table! One tip on the lack of bandsaw, you can use either a circular saw, or a mitre saw with a depth stop to make several cuts then knock them out with a hammer and chisel them clean. Only takes a few minutes and is a popular method for notching large sections out. Either way though, best of luck!
Nice build and great video! I want to build a kitchen table for a friend that just went through a fire and lost everything. This table design will work great. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and plans!
Great looking table. Going to give it a try. If it goes well, I will attempt to make a matching bench! If you go on the Pottery Barn site, they show the matching bench. Would love some help on the dimensions! Cheers!
It provided excess so I trimmed it down. Because 2x10s are actually 1.5 x 9.5s, they wouldn't have been wide enough when put together so I went with 12s and trimmed. Guess I could have mixed the two.
Awesome job on this table. I just ordered the lumber to build it and gonna give it a go. I pulled up your cut list and dimensions page from your website and was wondering if there was any other more detailed plans, that I missed. Printed out only one page.
I had a similar question. Hi Nils, awesome idea here! In the cut list for the TOP you have a quantity of 4 - 2x12's. Wouldn't this be a 4' wide top? If so that one pager's dimensions graphic (top right) shows 3'6". I'm doing a modified version of this table at 6' in length x 3'6" and am trying to size everything proportionately. Thanks!
looking to build this same set and i look at your website but did no see a how tall is the table how wide do i need to set up the foot apart from the top table. let me know so i can just get the wood i need and how i need to cut them be appreciated
Looks like I missed that in the plans. The table height is 2' 6". The table legs should be 1' 6 1/2" in from the skirt of the table on the ends, and 1 1/2" in on the sides. Does that answer your question?
This table is terrific!! I just found a local Lumber Store that carried some non-pressure treated 4x6. I am about to build that table this weekend. Question to you....: can the table go thru a regular door without the top? just wondering if i have to use glue during this process... Your response will help.. Thanks in advance.
That's awesome - I'd love to see how it turns out! Yes, it can fit through a standard door with the top off. I recommend marking everything and predrilling in the garage/shop and then bringing in the base, then the top, then just some quick assembly and you're good! Best of luck!
Beautiful looking table! Just started making this table with my dad. How exactly did you join the table top and the base? Recessed Bolts through the top and then cover the holes with plastic wood? Thanks for the awesome video!!
Tricky to pull out scratches/dents easier. Just add water. Dab water onto the scratch and either let air dry or heat gun dry. It'll bring the wood grain up and then sand flush. Or use a damp rag and iron. Same deal.
A quick note on the end caps. I’m not sure I’d honestly recommend them. The problem is that the wood will shrink and expand more in one direction than the other, which means that while the table top may move a bit in one direction, the end cap, by virtue of being perpendicular to the rest of the top, will move in the other direction. On my table this has resulted in a bit of a lip. Nothing huge, but not what I hoped for. I’d recommend leaving the wood out for several weeks first, or possibly omitting the end cap altogether. Another option is to create an end cap (for the lip) by cutting off 1.5" from the table top and then attaching that to the bottom of the ends - to help match up the skirts. I attached the end caps with glue and brads at first, followed up with some pocket hole screws from the bottom side. If you're just doing the skirt method, then I'd recommend screwing them in from the bottom using 2.5" countersunk screws. The end cap dimensions (as shown in the plans) are 3’6″ W x 3″ H x 1.5″ D.
As for the side skirts, it’s just a 2×4 ripped in half and then glued, tacked and screwed onto the table top. I countersunk all of the screws and that one worked out pretty well. The side skirts are 7’9″ W x 1.5″ H x 1.5″ D.
I make a lot of tables using similar techniques. I've devised a system to allow the cross grain to expand and contract freely without the breadboard ends preventing that from happening. It takes a bit more effort but makes for a stable table top. Also, I always put a few coats of poly on the underside to seal the entire table top and limit the wood movement. The diy plans websites don't often factor that stuff in.
I love the rough sawn technique. I'll have to use that!
LRN2DIY 5
Should have done book end wouldn't have had that problem but still would have had the look you wanted
LRN2DIY on a scale of 1-10. How comfortable are the chairs?
Rach Hunting hello, what are book ends?
I came across this video when I started researching how to make a dining room table. I have zero carpentry experience so I wanted something easy, this wasn’t as easy as I was looking for but I was up for the challenge. With your instructions and some google research (and a little guidance from the guys at my local Home Depot) I made a version of this table. It’s far from perfect and may not last me forever but it looks amazing and I did it all by myself! Thanks for your tutorial.
That's so cool to hear, Diana! Congrats on taking this on and finishing it. These types of comments really make the effort that goes into making these videos worthwhile, so thank you for sharing. :)
The bandsaw texture trick was worth the price of admission alone! Fantastic! Great trick. Thank you.
Fantastic Video!!!! I love the table, the instructions and (I'm geeking out here) but the animation of the lag bolts going into the wood. Very nice touch. I wasn't planning on it but the look of the bandsaw marks really gave it that high-end distressed feel. Gonna go make a sammich with some grey poupon now. Thanks again!
I ended up using 5-1/4 stock for the top. Then finished the edges and end boards with 1-1/2. A little more expensive but you save a lot of time shaping, sanding and getting edges straight. Plus it has far less inclusions in the wood than 2X stock. Also, make sure you lay table top boards out in opposite ring patterns. This will reduce cupping, warping etc. Will post pictures once it is assembled. Great tutorial! Thank you LRN2DIY!
KickDrumKid23 Great tips! Can’t wait to see your pics!
A suggestion, when flattening the top, use a straight/flat 2''X4''X5' with 60 grit paper glued-on, just slide this across the table at different angles to high-lite the lows and highs of the top.. I have used this process myself and am very pleased with the out-come...
David Januszewski What about a 6' level with a strip of belt sander paper anddouble sided tape to make sure it's as straight as possible
This one is one of the best I've seen!!!
This is the first hardware-store-wood diy table that I've found on youtube that doesn't look like a hardware-store-wood diy table.
You know what man I cherish everyone that cross my path in life you are awesome bro I am going to make this table thank you and have a bless and wonderful life.
Your bandsaw technique for getting the re-sawn look is genius!
Thank you. I built this table after watching you. My wife loves it.
Great looking table. I echo the concerns on wook movement. Also, for the cutout on the bottom of the legs you can leave the bottom flat and come back and add small blocks on both sides to create the "cut out". I don't have a bandsaw so that is what I would do.
Excellent idea on the wood block on the bottom. As for the movement of the wood, it's been a little bit of an issue with this table. I think I'd recommend leaving ends flush cut - no caps on them. You just never know how much movement you'll get otherwise.
Great looking table ..... but with all due respect wood movement is definitely going to be an issue for the top. As far as I know kiln dried construction lumber (please tell me you at least used kiln dried lumber) is dried to 19% (it will show either KD, or KD with a number after it to represent the moisture content), all of that said 19% is still way too high, you want to be in the 10%-12%. Bla bla bla, your table top is basically going to explode.
Before i knew any of this I did a how to video on a table made from construction lumber ..... then I learned you really cant do that, so I TOOK IT DOWN.
Call me if your interested, I can explain most of what you need to know in about 30 minutes. (831)245-7798
LRN2DIY actually you can determine the exact amount of movement - there are expansion rates by wood type available online, and you can calculate how much movement will happen based on humidity swings in your area, type of wood, and size of piece.
ProjectPossible does Home Depot sells kiln dried lumber?
Without caps aren't the boards making up the table top more vulnerable to cupping? I thought that along with wood expansion was the point of breadboard ends...
This table is beautiful and will last several generations. I plan on printing out the cut list and modifying it to fit my needs. I.am now a subscriber and look forward to seeing other projects you build. Thanks for the terrific video.
THIS LOOKS ABSOLUTELY AMAZING. SUPERB JOB
Dude, you’re the best for posting the build measurements! That’s awesome! Very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for the free video. The table looks great! I had to cut down a massive oak tree in my yard (leaning too much towards house). Then I had a sawyer come in to cut it up into pieces. I will use part of your plan to make a table for a relative. I hope to have a table made from my own wood from my own land.
That's really cool! Be sure to let us know how it comes out when you get to that point. Best of luck!
That's awesome. What a great idea.
One of the Best DIY Table I ever seen.
Agree
Hey NILS, I just finished this table thanks to you and your video / website. I can't tell you have helpful it has been! Thank you so much! I'd love to send you some pics, please let me know the best way : )
That's awesome! I'd love to see how it came out. You can post in the comments here lrn2diy.com/diy-kitchen-table/ or post to social media and tag @lrn2diy. Thanks!
Thanks brother! My wife and I made this table and did a video of it. We did a couple things different and it turned out great. Appreciate the help!
I love it.Beautiful.My favorite diy dinning table
Beautiful looking table! Thanks for sharing!
This was perfect as a vanity desk for me. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMAlHv7-BBWMrPRm5-uEoD6rtdT7SG2Qr Especially the glossy finish. Easy to cleanI was looking for something that wasn't the traditional white and with more of a modern feel. This fit the bill beautifully. I put it together with no problems, by myself in under an hour.Make sure you double check where you place the drawer tracks before screwing down. I had one track that needed to be aligned with different holes than the rest.
Looks incredible! Awesome work! Thanks for posting
Turned out so good
Really came out well. That's one chunky table!
simply amazing
I am so happy I came across this video. Looking for a project to try out and this is a perfect start. One question about the finish. After the coats of poly are on and sanded, for the last coat did you just leave it as is? Sand it with a very high grit? I’m curious if there is a sealer that anyone can recommend after the urethane coats have been applied. Thank you so much and can’t wait to get started
This is a great build... very thorough detail on the explanation as well. Great job!
GREAT Expalantion!! Thanks!!
Cool design , thank you for sharing your ideas .
Mate, great job and thanks for the multiple tips during your videos. And I'm impressed you were honest about how long you took to build the table. It's important to know that good things take time instead of pressuring ourselves to get it done.
That cut out on yhe bottom is to help it set level and to counter act imperfections in the floor on the the floor
Bardzo PIĘKNA Robota!
Great job, and a beautiful table.
For those who don't have a bandsaw but a table saw..buy a dado set to make the cut out for the base bottoms...make sure you use your table saw sled ...worked perfect for me..if you don'twant to buy a dado set you can still use your table saw sled to make those cuts ,running your board across the blade..does take time but still works...if you don't have a table saw,use a miter saw saw with stop block..making several cuts then clean it out
Awesome job and very quality value build table. Looks very study and great finish.
Very cool way to get the texture! Thanks for the tip!
I think I should build this table for my dining room!
Thank you so much.... I just used these plans to build myself this table.... except, I used all mahogany. Came out beautiful!!!!
That's awesome! Can you upload some pics to one of my social media accounts? I'm on FB, Twitter and Instagram as @LRN2DIY. You rock!
Great build! An easier way to make the arch on the bottom of the legs if you don't have a band saw - instead of using a long jigsaw blade just make multiple passes with a circular saw and chisel/knock out the chips
I love it , good job man 🤘
I haven't had a Ryobi tool that ever lasted longer than 16 months! You got lucky with that one!
thats a really big save , nicely done !
Beautiful desk! How is it holding up 6 years later? Any bending?
Nice result. How did you fasten the top to the base? Thanks for sharing
Thanks. I used some lag screws in several spots. There are details on the website and a link in the description.
That a beautiful table.
This looks great! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
My 1st home project
So awesome! Glad you did this, shared this, and i certainly want to do this as well
Awesome job!
Superb video and great commentary
Thank you for the band saw tip to create that effect, I've been looking it up for years.
I saw a table from "Indonesia" at a Ross once and have been wondering how they did it ever since.
Not saying this is how they did it, but it's the closest thing to it that I've come across. 👍
Looks great, but the problem with the big box lumber, is it's still always pretty wet. I made a table with that stuff a few years ago, and it warped like crazy over time. After about 4 years, I took it apart, jointed and planed everything and then put it back together...good to go!
Looks good. But how would you get it anywhere in the house? Bulky and heavy af lol.
Very nice. ....well done.
Brilliant!
Newbie here. I don't follow you very well regarding the end caps and exactly what to do instead. I can't picture in my mind what you mean by "lip" either. When you say to "leave the wood out". Can it be left inside the house to acclimate to that temp and humidity? Or best left out doors in my shed where there is no temp control? Sorry for all the questions.
Hey Mike, great question. The end caps or bread boards are tricky. My brother actually built this same table from my plans and he did something pretty similar to this: th-cam.com/video/fW4AVb2XDMk/w-d-xo.html. Most people don't have a Festool Domino tool (they're $1500) so dowels will typically do the trick. If you have the time (I'd recommend 6+ weeks) to let the wood adapt and dry a bit, I'd recommend keeping it indoors, near the area where the table will be if possible. My end caps haven't moved much at all after the original settling so if you have the time to assemble everything and let it settle for a while and then shave it smooth (assuming there's some expansion or contraction) then finish it, that will work too. I'd love to hear how it goes!
This is awesome thanks
I really enjoyed the narration. Great video. 👍
Thank you! I will built this amazing table for my family.
Really awesome video! Fantastic post production and you had me rolling with the Ryobi moment of silence! LOL
very beautiful work. thanks
Great looking table!
I use GRK washered lags with #40 star drive. Thanks.
Hows the table holding up? My brothers warped pretty heavily and are planning out a new one but will use c-channels underneath.
Our is doing great but we did have some warping on the ends, which is why I recommend using a breadboard style end cap. The problems arise when you try to have boards going in two different directions, which causes problems when the grain swells in opposite directions.
Very qualitative explanation, thnx! Great video, great work!
AWESOME!! Dude, Im going to try to do the same table...BTW, you kind of resemble Astros Alex Bregman.
Nice job. I may build this in the near future.
This is awesome. Nice work
Very nice 👍🏼
Beautiful !!!
Great looking table! Is the beam at the bottom next to the floor that connects the legs, just for looks or is it structural? Could the table be built without that piece and still be stable?
It does add rigidity and takes some pressure off the legs as far as side to side movement but I imagine omitting it wouldn't make a huge difference. If you end up building one without it I'd love to hear what you think.
@@LRN2DIY Thanks for your quick reply. I'm in the process of designing an outdoor dinig table that I will make with WR Cedar. My wife likes the X table leg style but in most designs there is this beam at the intersection of the x. On every other leg style there is this beam at the bottom and I agree it does take the strain off the legs, just trying to understand how much its needed and my additional cost. I plan to have a footer like yours but since I dont have a band saw to notch out feet, I'll have to cut square feet pads to attach. I also am planning on 4x4s but thinking now about 6x6s. Its always nice to look at a catalog and see something that you like and either can't afford or rather save your money and know that you can make it cheaper and undoubtedly with better materials, not to mention the enjoyment of knowing you made it yourself -Bragging rights included. Thanks again!
@@jasonkeller5732 Sounds like it'll be a great looking table! One tip on the lack of bandsaw, you can use either a circular saw, or a mitre saw with a depth stop to make several cuts then knock them out with a hammer and chisel them clean. Only takes a few minutes and is a popular method for notching large sections out. Either way though, best of luck!
I like the lap joints on the skirt boards
Nice build and great video! I want to build a kitchen table for a friend that just went through a fire and lost everything. This table design will work great. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and plans!
Nicely done - Gonna give this a go... will let you know how it goes. Comment noted about the lip/expansion issue. Many thanks.
Nicely done sir.
Great device
Great looking table. Going to give it a try. If it goes well, I will attempt to make a matching bench! If you go on the Pottery Barn site, they show the matching bench. Would love some help on the dimensions! Cheers!
Can you send me the link to the actual table? I can't seem to find it on the PB website anymore.
excellent!
Love this table. Keep it up
Great video! THANKS For sharing
Beautifull table
Getting lumber together to build this table. Looks awesome. But how are you getting a 3'6" wide top by joining 4 - 2 x 12's together?
It provided excess so I trimmed it down. Because 2x10s are actually 1.5 x 9.5s, they wouldn't have been wide enough when put together so I went with 12s and trimmed. Guess I could have mixed the two.
lots of work..looks great.
Awesome job on this table. I just ordered the lumber to build it and gonna give it a go. I pulled up your cut list and dimensions page from your website and was wondering if there was any other more detailed plans, that I missed. Printed out only one page.
I tried to put everything on that one page. If you let me know what else you need by way of dimensions or instructions, I'll be happy to provide it.
I had a similar question. Hi Nils, awesome idea here! In the cut list for the TOP you have a quantity of 4 - 2x12's. Wouldn't this be a 4' wide top? If so that one pager's dimensions graphic (top right) shows 3'6". I'm doing a modified version of this table at 6' in length x 3'6" and am trying to size everything proportionately. Thanks!
OMG, You are freaking AWSOME ! , "RIP Ryobi" LMAO
liem nguyen YOU'RE awesome, man. Thanks for always checking in on my projects and being supportive!
great video, great table, great step by step. my question is how do you attach the top to the base.
Yeah, I didn't really cover it in the video so here's the link to the article where I explain it: lrn2diy.com/diy-kitchen-table/
Great video
looking to build this same set and i look at your website but did no see a how tall is the table how wide do i need to set up the foot apart from the top table. let me know so i can just get the wood i need and how i need to cut them be appreciated
Looks like I missed that in the plans. The table height is 2' 6". The table legs should be 1' 6 1/2" in from the skirt of the table on the ends, and 1 1/2" in on the sides. Does that answer your question?
This table is terrific!! I just found a local Lumber Store that carried some non-pressure treated 4x6. I am about to build that table this weekend. Question to you....: can the table go thru a regular door without the top? just wondering if i have to use glue during this process... Your response will help.. Thanks in advance.
That's awesome - I'd love to see how it turns out! Yes, it can fit through a standard door with the top off. I recommend marking everything and predrilling in the garage/shop and then bringing in the base, then the top, then just some quick assembly and you're good! Best of luck!
Thanks a million for your inputs! I will send you some pics for sure!.... probaby next weekend. My wife is in love with your table!
Beautiful looking table! Just started making this table with my dad. How exactly did you join the table top and the base? Recessed Bolts through the top and then cover the holes with plastic wood?
Thanks for the awesome video!!
Bolts through the bottom, actually. I list the steps on my site: lrn2diy.com/diy-kitchen-table/
I had the exact same question
very nice
Great job
I want to do a table similar to this but outdoors. Is it advisable to do a glued table top with pressure treated wood?
Awsome. Happy wife happy life. ☺
Tricky to pull out scratches/dents easier. Just add water. Dab water onto the scratch and either let air dry or heat gun dry. It'll bring the wood grain up and then sand flush. Or use a damp rag and iron. Same deal.
Did you condition the pine with a pre-stain conditioner? just curious
I didn't, but that's certainly not a bad idea.
Awesome table, like that band saw look. how did you attach the table top to the legs. Thanks
Could you explain how you fabricate the center strut connecting the two leg fram supports?
Great job!