3:18 The children are now missing because they are in the Aerostar and on their way to the hospital after that kart collision. The garage door is up, they are about to leave. The fixture is shining strong on this special, important family moment.
I've heard of that as well, I don't think that's true with most MH, HPS and MV lamps. I know that with tubular halogen and double ended MH (the type with a bare arc tube for use in specialty enclosed fixtures such as some high powered grow lights) they WILL pop anywhere from a few minutes to several days afterwards if contaminated with skin oils as the oil burns it leaves discoloration which absorbs light and makes that point on the quartz bulb hotter than the rest of the lamp causing severe thermal stresses and also skin oils tend to chemically etch quartz at red hot temperatures, weakening it. This is especially dangerous with double ended MH because they operate at high internal pressures, with some high powered lamps in excess of 100 psi at approximately 1800 to 2000°F when at full brightness; the blast from a ruptured lamp can be comparable to a small grenade. In fact some lamps such HMI and Xenon short arc used in search lights and theater projectors require the use of full body protection and qualified technicians for installation and replacement, and the lamps come with a ballistic shield which is only to be removed once the lamp is securely in it's housing, and placed around the lamp prior to removal and relamping.
@@rarelampcollector What about mercury vapor blacklights bulbs then ? I have a 400W one and when running it gets incredibly hot, probably hotter than a standard MV bulb of the same wattage since the dark glass absorbs almost all the visible light to only let out UV and a bit of purple. Could it pop if I were to leave fingerprints on it ?
@@psirvent8 I also have a 400W mercury vapor blacklight and never had any issues after installing it with clean bare hands. The fixture I use it in is my Hang-A-Light, made by SouthWire, 400W pulse start metal halide ballast and it works fine with the mercury vapor after replacing the EX-39 socket with an E39 and disconnecting the ignitor. In case you weren't aware, in many cases the same wattage mercury vapor lamps can be run from a metal halide ballast of the same wattage because for the most part, mercury vapor lamps are very close in terms of arc voltage and current. However a standard (probe start) metal halide lamp does require a slightly higher open circuit voltage than mercury vapor for reliable starting which increases as the lamp is used. As a result, usually for example, a 400 watt metal halide will start and operate from a 400 watt mercury vapor ballast, but after some time will have trouble starting and may cycle like an EOL high pressure sodium lamp and appear to be at or near EOL when in fact the lamp is still good for another several thousands of hours, However there can be complications from running mercury vapor on metal halide ballasts you should be aware of. First is that metal halide lamps of 150 watts and under are pulse start and the high voltage pulses may damage a mercury vapor lamp which are all probe start, so the ignitor should be disconnected when running a 100W MV off a 100W MH ballast for example . Also for the 1,000W MV there are two versions that are NOT interchangeable and require their own ballast, the H34 and H36 lamp, the latter being the most common, while the former is rare. The H34 is a low voltage, high current lamp, while the H36 is a low current, high voltage lamp. H34 ballasts are extremely hard to find even moreso in the 120 volt version, most are 208, 240, 277 or 480 volts and probably won't light a H36 or 1000W MH at all. Conversely, running an H34 lamp on a H36 , M47 or M141 ballast with ignitor disconnected will overheat and burn out the ballast. An H36 lamp however, can be run from a M47 or M141 ballast with the ignitor disconnected without issue. Those are the only compatibility issues I'm aware of regarding mercury vapor vs metal halide.
I have a geyer HPS 70W bulb that is very similar in design inside and out and is the same size! and what the hell, the HPS looks warm white on the camera, while at first it looked normally light orange and then suddenly it changed, your camera is probably not very accurate, but the quality is very good and has good sharpness, and I don't like this light fixture that much, too small, the one for HPS 35W would be great, too small in general, but i can't say it's ugly, it's beautiful and new
Neat. I’ve been trying to decide on a fixture to put a 50w SDW-T (S104) bulb into, and these little area lights would probably be pretty much perfect for the bulb’s size and light output. I’ll have to keep an eye out for one of those. Not sure if I could shoehorn the controller inside of that thing, but I guess remotely ballasting is always an option.
3:18 The children are now missing because they are in the Aerostar and on their way to the hospital after that kart collision. The garage door is up, they are about to leave. The fixture is shining strong on this special, important family moment.
cool haha have never seen one without a busted diffuser thingy
I always clean the lamps with alcohol and a paper towel after touching them, been a wile though haha was told they pop from finger grease
I've heard of that as well, I don't think that's true with most MH, HPS and MV lamps.
I know that with tubular halogen and double ended MH (the type with a bare arc tube for use in specialty enclosed fixtures such as some high powered grow lights) they WILL pop anywhere from a few minutes to several days afterwards if contaminated with skin oils as the oil burns it leaves discoloration which absorbs light and makes that point on the quartz bulb hotter than the rest of the lamp causing severe thermal stresses and also skin oils tend to chemically etch quartz at red hot temperatures, weakening it.
This is especially dangerous with double ended MH because they operate at high internal pressures, with some high powered lamps in excess of 100 psi at approximately 1800 to 2000°F when at full brightness; the blast from a ruptured lamp can be comparable to a small grenade. In fact some lamps such HMI and Xenon short arc used in search lights and theater projectors require the use of full body protection and qualified technicians for installation and replacement, and the lamps come with a ballistic shield which is only to be removed once the lamp is securely in it's housing, and placed around the lamp prior to removal and relamping.
@@rarelampcollector What about mercury vapor blacklights bulbs then ?
I have a 400W one and when running it gets incredibly hot, probably hotter than a standard MV bulb of the same wattage since the dark glass absorbs almost all the visible light to only let out UV and a bit of purple.
Could it pop if I were to leave fingerprints on it ?
wow didn't know that you watch parrot175 too LOL
This is an unexpected sighting
@@psirvent8 I also have a 400W mercury vapor blacklight and never had any issues after installing it with clean bare hands.
The fixture I use it in is my Hang-A-Light, made by SouthWire, 400W pulse start metal halide ballast and it works fine with the mercury vapor after replacing the EX-39 socket with an E39 and disconnecting the ignitor.
In case you weren't aware, in many cases the same wattage mercury vapor lamps can be run from a metal halide ballast of the same wattage because for the most part, mercury vapor lamps are very close in terms of arc voltage and current. However a standard (probe start) metal halide lamp does require a slightly higher open circuit voltage than mercury vapor for reliable starting which increases as the lamp is used. As a result, usually for example, a 400 watt metal halide will start and operate from a 400 watt mercury vapor ballast, but after some time will have trouble starting and may cycle like an EOL high pressure sodium lamp and appear to be at or near EOL when in fact the lamp is still good for another several thousands of hours,
However there can be complications from running mercury vapor on metal halide ballasts you should be aware of. First is that metal halide lamps of 150 watts and under are pulse start and the high voltage pulses may damage a mercury vapor lamp which are all probe start, so the ignitor should be disconnected when running a 100W MV off a 100W MH ballast for example . Also for the 1,000W MV there are two versions that are NOT interchangeable and require their own ballast, the H34 and H36 lamp, the latter being the most common, while the former is rare. The H34 is a low voltage, high current lamp, while the H36 is a low current, high voltage lamp. H34 ballasts are extremely hard to find even moreso in the 120 volt version, most are 208, 240, 277 or 480 volts and probably won't light a H36 or 1000W MH at all. Conversely, running an H34 lamp on a H36 , M47 or M141 ballast with ignitor disconnected will overheat and burn out the ballast. An H36 lamp however, can be run from a M47 or M141 ballast with the ignitor disconnected without issue.
Those are the only compatibility issues I'm aware of regarding mercury vapor vs metal halide.
I find this style of light to be very popular throughout the Regent line.
Exelente luminaria y colección 👍
I have a geyer HPS 70W bulb that is very similar in design inside and out and is the same size! and what the hell, the HPS looks warm white on the camera, while at first it looked normally light orange and then suddenly it changed, your camera is probably not very accurate, but the quality is very good and has good sharpness, and I don't like this light fixture that much, too small, the one for HPS 35W would be great, too small in general, but i can't say it's ugly, it's beautiful and new
Neat. I’ve been trying to decide on a fixture to put a 50w SDW-T (S104) bulb into, and these little area lights would probably be pretty much perfect for the bulb’s size and light output.
I’ll have to keep an eye out for one of those. Not sure if I could shoehorn the controller inside of that thing, but I guess remotely ballasting is always an option.
CANNOT STAND how the lamp is crooked in the fixture
i want one so bad
Can I call you the light guy?
Eu moro no Brasil, será que consigo comprar uma luminária igual a essas? E pedir para que entreguem aqui em meu endereço no Brasil?
Hey parrot! is $33 a good price for a 100w HPS floodlight in its box uninstalled worth the price?
It's definitely cheaper than some new ones I've seen at the store.
@@Parrot175 yeah I got the fixture yesterday morning and boy is it worth that much! I also got a dual standby arc 100w et23.5 hps bulb too