I might suggest that you cut down your videos in post. Maybe add some music. You lose a lot of attention with these long, quiet segments without pay off. People don’t like to watch 5 minutes of trying to wrestle one bolt loose. It’s just human nature. Try cutting to the moment you break something loose or achieve your goal. If you are serious about growth of your channel, please take my advice. I’m subscribed for now, would love to see some of the projects come to fruition. But I need to see improvement to stick around. Just some helpful constructive criticism🤷🏻♂️
I really love watching your series on this VW bus. But some times, when I am watching, I feel like I need to reach into the video and help you do things. You do have a lot to learn yet, but I applaud you in staying with the project. When trying to disassemble a starter, you should either use a gear/bearing puller, or prop the starter where the flange is positioned so that you can punch the shaft down and out. And to get the ends of the starter plates/castings off, try using two flat bladed screwdrivers, one on both side. Leverage them against the case and pry up. The end plate will move off fairly easy that way. It make that disassembly so much easier. When removing keyways, use an awl. It will remove them near instantly with a little tap of a small hammer. Nothing actually wrong with your methods, just pointing out easier and faster ways... Thumbs Up! Keep them coming...
Gary! Thank you so much! I know I have a ton to learn and I really appreciate you guys helping! It's a lot of fun and I will keep at it. Thanks for all the advice! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
You are doing a good job ct, before taking a generator apart there is a rule that if it runs as a motor it will charge, I know it's too late for you but if you google test auto generators there is a 2 minute test. it has helped me trouble shoot many times, your generator looks good but needs a good cleaning with brake cleaner, spray all over and just wipe the wiring carefully and use emery cloth to sand the armature and the magnets inside the housing lightly, when done with the armature the brushes go against make sure the gaps between each pole is clear of each other (the slotted gaps) clean with a thin screwdriver or a thin file just to clean it don't ruin it. You took it apart way more tjhan you needed to but since you already did it you might as well put all the new parts in. when you remove the two nuts and long bolts,the asm will come apart without removing the other end parts. if there is any question about cleaning something use brake cleaner,read the lable to make sure it wont hurt electrical or plastic, most won't. I hope this helps in some small way,good luck.
Hi, CT, unfortunately seen a day later. Procedure disassembly alternator: 1.) Remove the V-belt pulley with spacer pulleys. 2.) Dismantle voltage regulator 3.) Unscrew the connection of the field coil from the brush holder of the plus brush. 4.) Unscrew the two housing screws of the alternator. 5.) Lift the carbon brushes slightly and remove the end shield on the collector side. Remove pressure ring for ball bearing. 6.) Pull out the bearing plate on the blower side with the armature from the alternator housing. 7.) Press the ball bearing on the collector side including cover side and sheet metal and spacer ring off the anchor with a repair press in conjunction with the VW tool VW 401 and VW 408. 8.) Press off the bearing shield from the anchor on the blower side using a repair press and the VW VW 401 and VW 408 tools. 9.) Remove the cover plate for the ball bearing from the bearing shield and remove the snap ring. 10.) Use a repair press and VW tool VW 401 and VW 408 to squeeze the ball bearing, thrust ring and mudguard out of the bearing shield. 11.) The two snap rings can remain on the armature shaft. 12.) If necessary, remove the field coils from the housing using a special device. This would disassemble the alternator. If the collector is dirty, clean it with a soft cloth soaked in petrol. The brush springs for the carbon pins should be checked for pre-tension with a spring balance. The prescribed tension should be 450 to 600 grams. Flagging brush springs must be replaced. If the collector shows signs of fire or wear, it must be overhauled. The collector surfaces can be removed with a fine polishing cloth, since sometimes a graphite coating deposits on them (weather-related). !!!!!! To lubricate the ball bearings, please use only Bosch hot bearing grease !!!!!!! Otherwise the alternator may be damaged. Greetings from Germany PS: You should really get yourself a repair press. And maybe take a look at your repair manual and compare it with the German manual. An ultrasonic cleaner should be helpful when cleaning small parts. If not, ask Musti 1 or the duck man about it (model etc.). No criticism, just good intentions. ✌👍👍👍
On reassembly, dont forget to clean the contacts in the voltage regulator. If the Generator is stuffed, you may be able to replace with an alternator and solid state regulator as a cheaper option. Respect to you for digging that deep into it. Thanks for sharing.
CT your disassembly skills make me crazy! But you're getting better. 1) never lend your tools, 2) use your new puller to take off the bearing, 3) buy a divider box at Harbor F. for $3 for every disacenbly and lable every thing, 4) F is for Field, + is for positive, 5) there is a spray for cleaning electronic elements, 6) take the time to give the gen. a nice coat of black Rustoleum, 7) I'm sure your garage has an ample garbage can, put those gloves in the can. Hope this helps, I'm not trying to be a smart ads! Yours, Newk from Kentucky
I had the privilege of working at a "Full Service" Richfield Gas Station in the early '60's. I learned how to do most everything from re-lining brake shoes to completely rebuilding generators and starters. To do a proper job you need a commutator lathe to reface the commutator and a cutter to cut back the insulator material. Also needed is a "growler" to test for shorts not to mention a spring scale to test brush spring tension. I'm surprised that you haven't acquired a blast cabinet for resurfacing that nasty pully as well as other small parts. In a complete rebuild the field windings would be removed and the case blasted and repainted. All this is what you get for your $100.00 when you buy a proper rebuilt unit. Good luck and keep up the good work.
Fun video to watch, the armature will need to be turned to be properly surfaced, the rest you can clean easily with Simple Green, be careful with then internal where the magnets are. The outside of the barrel can be easily cleaned with a brass wire wheel, end pieces can be blasted and painted with high temp paint, new bearings.. don't dismantle the Voltage Regulator, test it and change it if needed. I went through a similar process on a 12V system form my 912 - it's pretty straight forward. Also, pleeeaaaasse use a puller and stop banging that mallet! :) keep up the good work!
You made me chuckle to myself when you said "okay I know some of you are saying put it in the vice" That's exactly what I was thinking lol. You did alright without the puller and I have to say those brushes are pretty worn so its probably best to replace them. Good to see you have plenty of screwdrivers too, one of my favorite tools really utilitarian you know! Anxious to see the rest of the engine build. Glad to see you hanging in there. Later!
Hey CT, not to toot my own horn but I was the one who suggested the big socket little socket method of bearing removal in one of your early videos. Don't know if you used it anywhere else but looks like it worked on the generator shaft bearing.You're learning. BTW i would check the resistance of the the 2 electromagnet windings in the housing and also the resistance of the windings on the armature (the rotating thing in the middle). You also should see if you can find someone who can resurface the part of the rotor where the brushes ride (the commutator). The current generated by the generator comes out through the brushes so you need good contact to prevent arcing which will eventually damage and burn away the commutator surface. Also the F terminal stands for 'field' as in magnetic field. There is a constant current going to the windings in the electromagnets inside the housing and when the the armature spins in that magnetic field current is 'induced' in the armature and exits through the brushes. This is the exact opposite of an alternator which uses a spinning rotor as the magnets and generates the output in the stationary windings inside the housing. The reason alternators are a superior design to the generator is that the high current output does not have to go through the brushes which arc.
Hello my friend! That is awesome advice I really appreciate that. I will check the resistance and see if I can find someone to resurface the parts. Thank you! Stay tuned!
Very cool stuff CT...I love that passion you have towards old engineering, old cars and restoring stuff...thats really cool. Cheers from Panama City, Panama.
The F is the field winding terminal. After beating on the pulley like that, you’ve probably bent the crap out of it. Will never run true again and will likely go thru belts like water thru a screen... oh, and to remove a Woodruff key, the easiest way is to take a brass punch and a hammer and drive the inner end down. Then grab the now raised outer end with some side cuts and lever it up and out. Works every time... The best way to remove a bearing like that is in a press with a clamshell behind the bearing. I do it all time on lawnmower spindle bearings.
I´m also using this way to get the keys out. But sometimes they seemed welded in. For the bearing he can use the puller which he has used for the steering wheel.
Oh and the spacers on the generator are to adjust the belt tension. Adding more between pulleys will loosen belt removing will tighten it when it gets worn.
Hi CT😁 another great video. Keep them coming. The F stands for Field or Ground. Glass bead blast all the tiny pieces and electro plate them zinc silver or zinc dichromate. Powder coat the body and regulator cover satin black. Tip! Always undo the nut off of a bolt. In this case the long screw. It put less strain on the head of the screw or bolt head and won’t bugger up the slot. All the torque is applied to unscrewing the nut while the shaft is still. Use this tip for all nut and bolts from lawn mowers to fence posts.
Brake clean and steal wool works on all the parts . On the inside and the shaft lightly sand with 220 or steal wool. Or whatever light sandpaper you have. You will have to press or pull the bearing with a puller. Need help or some old school advice let me know.
Nice work. Def replace all the bearings. Also the “funny” looking washers are called “wave washers”. They are spring steel. Over time and heat cycles, they loose their “spring”. Def replace those as well. For the regulator, I’d get a new one to be safe. Especially on a 6 volt system. (If you can find one)
So first thing. WD40 is your friend. Spray everything the night before. Most test on a generator are done with a meter and most times you don't need to dismantle to do them. The brushes should pull up and your springs will hold them in place. Take strip of medium sandpaper and clean the armature under the brushes by spinning it in it's case. Pop the brushes back down and that's probably all you had to do. But having said that won't hurt to grease those bearing up a little and clean things up on inside. Just use medium sandpaper and go in direction of travel. Your regulator is mechanical too. It has a contact on inside that may need cleaning and adjustment. I've only watch 2 of your vids but one thing I don't think you've figured out yet. Things where built to last a lifetime back then. Most stuff can be adjusted or cleaned or rebuilt. Stuff today is junk. Even that bearing you bought is probably junk compared to the one in it. I would also get some old electric motor mount it and put an arbor and wire wheel on it. Makes it easy to clean and repaint your parts. Good Luck.
Those dynamo bearings, if it were me working on it, I’d spin the bearings, and feel for smooth running, and also if they are silent. If yes to both of those....leave them alone! Any roughness, and they are shot. The bearings are a press fit.
Hi CT !! after seeing your new video.nothing else to comment as stay by your one way to reassemble the different parts of rusty, that's the only way to learn.Al the best wishes for your project.Greeting HCS.
Hi CT, without the pullers make the job allot harder for sure. But beating parts off is good to release frustrations. Anyway I saw the guys in the machine shop use dry ice to remove and install bearings like this. They would just pack it around the shaft for a 1/2hr then do their thing. Using a puller on a bearing like this will destroy it unless it's cooled down first but you are replacing it anyway. Look it up how to install this kind of bearing to make sure
My friend on assembling the floor, you managed to attach the sifter bracket back on the frame what you can do next time is to tack weld the shifter bracket on for fitting and alignment then install the floor pan other wise the project that you're doing is great hey rock on buddy
Remember the saparator for the bearing... =) I'm still watching...Oh ,for cleaning the coils you can use some antisilicone solvent, it doesn't corrode the coils insulation and it does a good job in cleaning grease and grime, at least it works for me.. + a medium soft brush of plastic type, finish with a blow of air, let dry and assemble.
Hi again CT, two tools I can suggest to make your life easier, an impact screwdriver and a bearing puller---OK ? You got away with it this time but you can't fix everything with a hammer. Thanks for sharing your struggles, from that old Yorkshire "Geezer" in Ireland.
Hey Kris, it's really the only way to find out and to learn. You might break something or do something wrong along the way but at least you should learn something in the process. ! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =) What year is your car?
remove the bearings from the armature, spray cleaner on it, then chuck it up in a lathe to cut the commutator down smooth. lightly sand while in the lathe (both the comm. and arm.) to true them up. Then lightly re-groove between each of the comm legs so as not to allow for short.
Hey CT nice video. My van dyno collapsed onto the from bearing on its first long trip a combination of cable ties and beercap washers got us the 300km Home. Took it apart and learnt a lot. as you are. Think there r is a way of remagntising it or running it as a motor for a bit to get it in tip top condition. The manual will help! G'day from Aus !
You would better off converting to 12 volts. Starts are easier less grinding and the lights are brighter. Easier to jumpstart.You can use a. 6 volt loom which is a heavier gauge wire. It would be battery, starter, mag internals, lamps, generator and solid state regulator. Even if you stick with 6 volts at lease get a solid state regulator. The generator needs to have a electrical check. Just cleaning it won’t make it work.
Hi CT, you gotta be the luckiest guy, knocking those end plates off with a mallet & prying against the armature windings 😳😳 Wow, how something didn't break lol You can get an armature bearing puller for that bearing, in our workshop we used a press with a steel plate that had a hole in the middle, and was cut in half. The two halves would sit under the bearing and allowed the bearing to be pressed off. On the armature, if you know someone with a lathe, ask them to lightly skim the comutator, I mean really lightly. Then gently undercut it. When assembling it, put the armature & end plates on, then put a single wrap of fine sand paper around the comutator, fit the brushes, & spin the armature a few times to bed the brushes in. Then remove the sand paper. Be careful what you use to clean it as chemicals can break down the windings, armature insulation. Keep it dry and you should be fine. Good luck 👍
First rule, know your limitations. You are clearly beyond them at this point. Saturate the commutator and can with electronics cleaner or even brake cleaner. That should get rid of all the gunk.
Hi there.. One question is spinning in my mind... Why do you always start dismantling pulleys and bearings stuff with the hammer if you got a nice separator (puller) set in the past? I always avoid like a plague hitting stuff with hammers, although soft ones, if not strictly necessary... It's for the good of not damaging things.. old or new.. Oh, and by the way it seems that my rebuild of the engine in my "mean machine" will come to the list sooner than I anticipated.. =)
I've seen a few videos on youtube using a mixture of household items (like salt,vinegar and flour) to clean copper/brass/silver/gold/bronze ..they also make products like Magic Vanish which should make the job easier 😉 🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡
These woodruff keys are sometimes little bastards because they do not want to come off 😁. And for the housing is a nice "tipy tappy" with the hammer always a good idea. For cleaning you can use brake cleaner or a parts washer fluid.
Saludos cordiales hermano. Excelente video. Vaya que si necesita su limpieza. Verás que quedará muy bien. Oye mi combi la pienso dejar así tal cual está la tuya oxidada.
Maybe soak all the part in wd40 then scrub with little wire brush the brake cleaner to remove wd40. A little polishing or paint on the case would be cool👍🏻
you should look inside the regulator. i know that the screw in the center just holds the cover. the internals are riveted and soldered in. there are also a set of contact points in there that might need cleaning if it has been sitting for that long. if the points are dirty you wont get power out of the generator.
Tips?. I guess that that bearing must get out with heat as you've seen other times. BTW do always use something like a rag on the vice if you don't like scratches and marks in the piece that it's holding. About cleaning the generator I would use white vinegar and a brush and contact cleaner to finish. ;)
As contact cleaner you can use as cheapest method some 99% isopropyl alcohol. The best comercial method is DeoxIt, very expensive and also very, very good.
no experience here on your generator rebuilt, i did some brushes exchange years ago...the content of this video was interesting...you are moving right along
Brake parts cleaner and contact cleaner is the best things I have found to clean the inside of a old generation then clean the place where the brushes ride with fine Embry cloth
no, it eats the varnish off the windings! absolutley not recommended. that armature/commutator needs to be lathed cut, its beyond emery cloth and drill
I was an apprentice auto electrician in the early seventies and worked on these almost daily. I am yet to see the video, I'm commenting because you asked if anyone had ever worked on them. The only tip I have is this. If you want to remove the generator with the engine still in the vehicle, you need a special tool, a bent spanner/wrench to get it out. Now I'll watch the video.
watch the restore videos on yourtube i have seen them take one apart and shining the inside and replace the bearings and bushings put it back to gather and it worked
I believe in a pulley that old and rusted it's damaged enough to not worry about the tear down. It's best to replace it so it doesn't wear or burnout you're belts prematurely. Plus you already have it off so it's easy to replace it and there won't be any questions on the integrity for long distance travel!
@@jcgjcg3844 I don't know if it's the same now but, back when I was a VW mechanic, the aftermarket pulleys were total junk. I always tried to use the German ones if possible.
@@stevewarren3051 I see that as being logical. But he doesn't need a aftermarket. Due to the high demand of these vehicles there are numerous amounts of stored old new parts. It may take a little looking but I'm am %100 sure he can and will find one. But judging from the amount of surface damage even after market would be better then a reuse of this particular one.
@@jcgjcg3844 When i was fixing VW's you could only get original VW parts or cheap knockoffs. Mexican or Brazilian parts may be as good as original now.
No 12 Volt yet? The teeth on section 11 on the rotor should be deeper then 3mm If not refurb or replace. Refurb as diy is a bit tricky as there it need to be refit very exactly. If no reman or replacement ask an builder who makes electro motors transformators IN-HOUSE. NEVER put a rotor in a vice. Clamp only the shaft. Remove the key from in- to out-side. We use(d) slightly angled tools to get them out. 1rs bearings=dust shield
I had a set rule for working on generators and electric motors. If I took it apart far enough to ask if the bearing needed replacing, I replaced it. Regards, Solomon
www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html and yes use your vise man ! see if your local machine shop has the time to take a skim pass on the commentator to clean it up and level it back out. you can just clean the housings with your diesel or solvent and a brush just blow it out good. if your gonna try to take the fields out of the case those countersunk bolt are usually very tight and you will need an impact driver www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html. read the testing instructions well. also lookup "polarizing a regulator" sometimes they lose their way. thanx for the video.
please do not put the armature in a hard jaw vice like that! you can very easily damage the windings like that! do not clean the armature with any solvent based chemicals! it will eat the varnish off the windings and end up with a short. simple dish soap/ water and soft bristle brush (toothbrush)should be fine. that armature/commutator where the brushes contact may need a lathe cut. any local electric motor shop should be able to cut it for you. break in speed to cut the brushes at 1600 rpms
got mine apart as far as you did just now to clean it. I plan on converting to 12v anyway but just playing with this one to see if I can get it working. did your new one have to post on it rather than the two wires with lugs? actually yours had 3?
I guess I would test it before trying to "restore" it. Also you would have been better off putting it in the vise and using the vise as a press to push the bearing/retainer off rather than beating it off with a hammer. Think press whenever bearings are involved.
I'm honestly not trying to be a Troll... but.... nowhere in that service manual does it say "Get a bigger hammer". Although this video speaks volumes about the quality of German steel, wait and get the proper gear/pulley puller. You might also want to procure some soft aluminum angle "soft Jaws" for your vise. I hope you learn something every day. I learned the hard way too.... over 50 years ago.
Thanks Chuck, I appreciate your honesty and I look forward to your advice. Keep it coming and don't hold back! =) I do learn the hard way sometimes....It's just the way I was designed. Stay tuned for more!
Omfg look at the book. You’re asking questions the book will answer. Never works again because you’re hitting it with a hammer. I’m screaming at my tv watching you. I’m so glad you’re getting help rebuilding that engine. From these videos it seems like you just go at things rather than researching it first. Plus use the fast forward edit more often.
CT i would suggest you not to install anything on the van is it has to be stripped to get restored properly. I would also suggest you to do a research on rust and paint stripping companies ( which will dip it in chemicals to remove rust and paint ) and then go to a ktl company which will do the ecoat ( high strength corrosion protection ) the ktl part is the most important of all don’t skip it ! Also fix the holes before getting it dipped so the repaired areas will stay protected as well !
Stop blaming things on rust. It’s your lack of knowledge(even though that book is there) duh you have to remove the woodruff key. And it wasn’t rusted it, it’s a Precision Machined fit 😒. I’m bitchy but I do thumbs up and watch every video because I’m enjoying the progress of your project.
ur using 4:30 min before u start with what u wanna do in this video --- the rest of the time was "stay tuned, stay tuned, stay ....." yaaaaaaawn, i just closed
Yes, I thought about it and I might do that someday. I wanted to keep everything on Rusty original factory OEM if possible. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
@@CTmoog 6V is actually a good system. The reason people think it isn't is the brightness of the headlights and taillights. The reason for this is, on pre '67 cars, the wiring to the lights is usually corroded. It's the corrosion that causes the lights to appear to be dimmer. When you upgrade to 12v, the lights will appear brighter because they draw less amps and the corrosion effect of the wiring is less of a factor.
@@stevewarren3051 Sim Steve os fios se oxidam internamente e diminue a tensão da corrente, eu estou usando uma bateria da Optima americana é muito boa mas so tem 50 amper , estou pensando em colocar uma de 150 amper para ter melhor partida .saudaçoes do Braisil
@@lucianosilveira3945 That will not do any good. A higher amp battery will not make the starter turn faster. The starter is designed to draw a fixed amount of amps. The corrosion in the wires will still block the ability of the starter to draw enough amps to turn faster. The solution is to run new wiring from the battery to the starter and from the ignition switch to the starter.
ＬＩＫＥ | ＣＯＭＭＥＮＴ | ＳＨＡＲＥ | ＳＵＢＳＣＲＩＢＥ | Press the bell Icon - THANK YOU!!! CT =)
CT where did you get the manual from ?
Whoa! TOTTALY cool, C.T! Thanks for sharing, and as alway... very interesting video, man!✌
@@wesleyalan9179 Thanks brother! =)
@@CTmoog 🤘😎
I might suggest that you cut down your videos in post. Maybe add some music. You lose a lot of attention with these long, quiet segments without pay off. People don’t like to watch 5 minutes of trying to wrestle one bolt loose. It’s just human nature. Try cutting to the moment you break something loose or achieve your goal. If you are serious about growth of your channel, please take my advice. I’m subscribed for now, would love to see some of the projects come to fruition. But I need to see improvement to stick around. Just some helpful constructive criticism🤷🏻♂️
I really love watching your series on this VW bus. But some times, when I am watching, I feel like I need to reach into the video and help you do things. You do have a lot to learn yet, but I applaud you in staying with the project. When trying to disassemble a starter, you should either use a gear/bearing puller, or prop the starter where the flange is positioned so that you can punch the shaft down and out. And to get the ends of the starter plates/castings off, try using two flat bladed screwdrivers, one on both side. Leverage them against the case and pry up. The end plate will move off fairly easy that way. It make that disassembly so much easier. When removing keyways, use an awl. It will remove them near instantly with a little tap of a small hammer. Nothing actually wrong with your methods, just pointing out easier and faster ways... Thumbs Up! Keep them coming...
Gary! Thank you so much! I know I have a ton to learn and I really appreciate you guys helping! It's a lot of fun and I will keep at it. Thanks for all the advice! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Definitely need to clean the WD40 off of the stator. I've seen motors catch fire with oils inside.
You are doing a good job ct, before taking a generator apart there is a rule that if it runs as a motor it will charge, I know it's too late for you but if you google test auto generators there is a 2 minute test. it has helped me trouble shoot many times, your generator looks good but needs a good cleaning with brake cleaner, spray all over and just wipe the wiring carefully and use emery cloth to sand the armature and the magnets inside the housing lightly, when done with the armature the brushes go against make sure the gaps between each pole is clear of each other (the slotted gaps) clean with a thin screwdriver or a thin file just to clean it don't ruin it.
You took it apart way more tjhan you needed to but since you already did it you might as well put all the new parts in. when you remove the two nuts and long bolts,the asm will come apart without removing the other end parts. if there is any question about cleaning something use brake cleaner,read the lable to make sure it wont hurt electrical or plastic, most won't. I hope this helps in some small way,good luck.
Hi, CT, unfortunately seen a day later.
Procedure disassembly alternator:
1.) Remove the V-belt pulley with spacer pulleys.
2.) Dismantle voltage regulator
3.) Unscrew the connection of the field coil from the brush holder of the plus brush.
4.) Unscrew the two housing screws of the alternator.
5.) Lift the carbon brushes slightly and remove the end shield on the collector side. Remove pressure ring for ball bearing.
6.) Pull out the bearing plate on the blower side with the armature from the alternator housing.
7.) Press the ball bearing on the collector side including cover side and sheet metal and spacer ring off the anchor with a repair press in conjunction with the VW tool VW 401 and VW 408.
8.) Press off the bearing shield from the anchor on the blower side using a repair press and the VW VW 401 and VW 408 tools.
9.) Remove the cover plate for the ball bearing from the bearing shield and remove the snap ring.
10.) Use a repair press and VW tool VW 401 and VW 408 to squeeze the ball bearing, thrust ring and mudguard out of the bearing shield.
11.) The two snap rings can remain on the armature shaft.
12.) If necessary, remove the field coils from the housing using a special device.
This would disassemble the alternator.
If the collector is dirty, clean it with a soft cloth soaked in petrol. The brush springs for the carbon pins should be checked for pre-tension with a spring balance. The prescribed tension should be 450 to 600 grams. Flagging brush springs must be replaced.
If the collector shows signs of fire or wear, it must be overhauled. The collector surfaces can be removed with a fine polishing cloth, since sometimes a graphite coating deposits on them (weather-related). !!!!!! To lubricate the ball bearings, please use only Bosch hot bearing grease !!!!!!! Otherwise the alternator may be damaged.
Greetings from Germany
PS: You should really get yourself a repair press. And maybe take a look at your repair manual and compare it with the German manual. An ultrasonic cleaner should be helpful when cleaning small parts. If not, ask Musti 1 or the duck man about it (model etc.). No criticism, just good intentions. ✌👍👍👍
On reassembly, dont forget to clean the contacts in the voltage regulator. If the Generator is stuffed, you may be able to replace with an alternator and solid state regulator as a cheaper option. Respect to you for digging that deep into it. Thanks for sharing.
CT your disassembly skills make me crazy! But you're getting better. 1) never lend your tools, 2) use your new puller to take off the bearing, 3) buy a divider box at Harbor F. for $3 for every disacenbly and lable every thing, 4) F is for Field, + is for positive, 5) there is a spray for cleaning electronic elements, 6) take the time to give the gen. a nice coat of black Rustoleum, 7) I'm sure your garage has an ample garbage can, put those gloves in the can. Hope this helps, I'm not trying to be a smart ads! Yours, Newk from Kentucky
This is a serious case of if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem 🤪🤪
I had the privilege of working at a "Full Service" Richfield Gas Station in the early '60's. I learned how to do most everything from re-lining brake shoes to completely rebuilding generators and starters. To do a proper job you need a commutator lathe to reface the commutator and a cutter to cut back the insulator material. Also needed is a "growler" to test for shorts not to mention a spring scale to test brush spring tension. I'm surprised that you haven't acquired a blast cabinet for resurfacing that nasty pully as well as other small parts. In a complete rebuild the field windings would be removed and the case blasted and repainted. All this is what you get for your $100.00 when you buy a proper rebuilt unit. Good luck and keep up the good work.
I wouldn't ming having the lathe. that would be cool. I might have to pick up one.
Fun video to watch, the armature will need to be turned to be properly surfaced, the rest you can clean easily with Simple Green, be careful with then internal where the magnets are. The outside of the barrel can be easily cleaned with a brass wire wheel, end pieces can be blasted and painted with high temp paint, new bearings.. don't dismantle the Voltage Regulator, test it and change it if needed. I went through a similar process on a 12V system form my 912 - it's pretty straight forward. Also, pleeeaaaasse use a puller and stop banging that mallet! :) keep up the good work!
You made me chuckle to myself when you said "okay I know some of you are saying put it in the vice" That's exactly what I was thinking lol. You did alright without the puller and I have to say those brushes are pretty worn so its probably best to replace them. Good to see you have plenty of screwdrivers too, one of my favorite tools really utilitarian you know! Anxious to see the rest of the engine build. Glad to see you hanging in there. Later!
Hey CT, not to toot my own horn but I was the one who suggested the big socket little socket method of bearing removal in one of your early videos. Don't know if you used it anywhere else but looks like it worked on the generator shaft bearing.You're learning. BTW i would check the resistance of the the 2 electromagnet windings in the housing and also the resistance of the windings on the armature (the rotating thing in the middle). You also should see if you can find someone who can resurface the part of the rotor where the brushes ride (the commutator). The current generated by the generator comes out through the brushes so you need good contact to prevent arcing which will eventually damage and burn away the commutator surface. Also the F terminal stands for 'field' as in magnetic field. There is a constant current going to the windings in the electromagnets inside the housing and when the the armature spins in that magnetic field current is 'induced' in the armature and exits through the brushes. This is the exact opposite of an alternator which uses a spinning rotor as the magnets and generates the output in the stationary windings inside the housing. The reason alternators are a superior design to the generator is that the high current output does not have to go through the brushes which arc.
Hello my friend! That is awesome advice I really appreciate that. I will check the resistance and see if I can find someone to resurface the parts. Thank you! Stay tuned!
Alternator jigsaw puzzle!!! “I like to see how stuff works...” channeling your inner Mustie1!!! Great stuff as usual CT!!!
Thanks Thomas! Yes, I love taking things apart. It's getting them back together that' is the problem! =)
Very cool stuff CT...I love that passion you have towards old engineering, old cars and restoring stuff...thats really cool. Cheers from Panama City, Panama.
Hello Sorush! Thank you so much! Yes, it really is fun to work on old Cars and Trucks! Stay tuned for more! =)
The F is the field winding terminal. After beating on the pulley like that, you’ve probably bent the crap out of it. Will never run true again and will likely go thru belts like water thru a screen... oh, and to remove a Woodruff key, the easiest way is to take a brass punch and a hammer and drive the inner end down. Then grab the now raised outer end with some side cuts and lever it up and out. Works every time... The best way to remove a bearing like that is in a press with a clamshell behind the bearing. I do it all time on lawnmower spindle bearings.
Thanks John! Sound like I need to buy a press!
I´m also using this way to get the keys out. But sometimes they seemed welded in. For the bearing he can use the puller which he has used for the steering wheel.
Oh and the spacers on the generator are to adjust the belt tension. Adding more between pulleys will loosen belt removing will tighten it when it gets worn.
I just caught up on the progress of the build last night. Perfect timing to drop this👍
Thanks man! I glad you like them! Stay tuned for more! =)
BBT in Belgium has produced the 6v regulators. You can even interchange the original Bosch cap.
Hi CT😁 another great video. Keep them coming. The F stands for Field or Ground. Glass bead blast all the tiny pieces and electro plate them zinc silver or zinc dichromate. Powder coat the body and regulator cover satin black. Tip! Always undo the nut off of a bolt. In this case the long screw. It put less strain on the head of the screw or bolt head and won’t bugger up the slot. All the torque is applied to unscrewing the nut while the shaft is still. Use this tip for all nut and bolts from lawn mowers to fence posts.
That is great advice man! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Brake clean and steal wool works on all the parts . On the inside and the shaft lightly sand with 220 or steal wool. Or whatever light sandpaper you have. You will have to press or pull the bearing with a puller. Need help or some old school advice let me know.
Nice work. Def replace all the bearings. Also the “funny” looking washers are called “wave washers”. They are spring steel. Over time and heat cycles, they loose their “spring”. Def replace those as well. For the regulator, I’d get a new one to be safe. Especially on a 6 volt system. (If you can find one)
Thanks man! I'm not are where I could find a washer like that but I will google it. Thanks for the advice! Stay tuned for more! =)
So first thing. WD40 is your friend. Spray everything the night before. Most test on a generator are done with a meter and most times you don't need to dismantle to do them. The brushes should pull up and your springs will hold them in place. Take strip of medium sandpaper and clean the armature under the brushes by spinning it in it's case. Pop the brushes back down and that's probably all you had to do. But having said that won't hurt to grease those bearing up a little and clean things up on inside. Just use medium sandpaper and go in direction of travel. Your regulator is mechanical too. It has a contact on inside that may need cleaning and adjustment. I've only watch 2 of your vids but one thing I don't think you've figured out yet. Things where built to last a lifetime back then. Most stuff can be adjusted or cleaned or rebuilt. Stuff today is junk. Even that bearing you bought is probably junk compared to the one in it. I would also get some old electric motor mount it and put an arbor and wire wheel on it. Makes it easy to clean and repaint your parts. Good Luck.
I love restoration of old cars, pity that in my country things are very difficult !!! 😞
I love it too. I'm so sorry about that. What country are you in?
@@CTmoog Brasil
Those dynamo bearings, if it were me working on it, I’d spin the bearings, and feel for smooth running, and also if they are silent. If yes to both of those....leave them alone!
Any roughness, and they are shot.
The bearings are a press fit.
Will be interesting to see if it works when you’re done.
Yes! I'm not counting on it! =) We will see!
Hi CT !! after seeing your new video.nothing else to comment as stay by your one way to reassemble the different parts of rusty, that's the only way to learn.Al the best wishes for your project.Greeting HCS.
Hi CT, without the pullers make the job allot harder for sure. But beating parts off is good to release frustrations. Anyway I saw the guys in the machine shop use dry ice to remove and install bearings like this. They would just pack it around the shaft for a 1/2hr then do their thing. Using a puller on a bearing like this will destroy it unless it's cooled down first but you are replacing it anyway. Look it up how to install this kind of bearing to make sure
My friend on assembling the floor, you managed to attach the sifter bracket back on the frame what you can do next time is to tack weld the shifter bracket on for fitting and alignment then install the floor pan other wise the project that you're doing is great hey rock on buddy
Remember the saparator for the bearing... =) I'm still watching...Oh ,for cleaning the coils you can use some antisilicone solvent, it doesn't corrode the coils insulation and it does a good job in cleaning grease and grime, at least it works for me.. + a medium soft brush of plastic type, finish with a blow of air, let dry and assemble.
Hi again CT, two tools I can suggest to make your life easier, an impact screwdriver and a bearing puller---OK ? You got away with it this time but you can't fix everything with a hammer. Thanks for sharing your struggles, from that old Yorkshire "Geezer" in Ireland.
Cool video nice to see the engine parts coming together original German bearings look good I would have used them clean them repack them
It's cool to see what's inside and how these parts are put together. Might have a go at mine.. Though I don't think I have an issue with it.
Hey Kris, it's really the only way to find out and to learn. You might break something or do something wrong along the way but at least you should learn something in the process. ! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =) What year is your car?
@@CTmoog my beetle is a 1972 1300s/GT. Pretty cool rare model. Where did you get that manual? Would be great to find one for my model.
Today I picked up another $10 diecast 1963 Volkswagen Panel Van from Rite Aid...this one is beige and is the companion to the blue I bought before.
remove the bearings from the armature, spray cleaner on it, then chuck it up in a lathe to cut the commutator down smooth. lightly sand while in the lathe (both the comm. and arm.) to true them up. Then lightly re-groove between each of the comm legs so as not to allow for short.
Hey CT nice video. My van dyno collapsed onto the from bearing on its first long trip a combination of cable ties and beercap washers got us the 300km Home. Took it apart and learnt a lot. as you are. Think there r is a way of remagntising it or running it as a motor for a bit to get it in tip top condition. The manual will help! G'day from Aus !
Very nice video CT!!!
Hi Lucy! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
@10:00 regulator looks like a squared off WWI 'Kaiser helmet' without the spike...
You would better off converting to 12 volts. Starts are easier less grinding and the lights are brighter. Easier to jumpstart.You can use a. 6 volt loom which is a heavier gauge wire. It would be battery, starter, mag internals, lamps, generator and solid state regulator. Even if you stick with 6 volts at lease get a solid state regulator. The generator needs to have a electrical check. Just cleaning it won’t make it work.
Thanks man! That is some good advice! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Hi CT, you gotta be the luckiest guy, knocking those end plates off with a mallet & prying against the armature windings 😳😳 Wow, how something didn't break lol
You can get an armature bearing puller for that bearing, in our workshop we used a press with a steel plate that had a hole in the middle, and was cut in half. The two halves would sit under the bearing and allowed the bearing to be pressed off.
On the armature, if you know someone with a lathe, ask them to lightly skim the comutator, I mean really lightly. Then gently undercut it. When assembling it, put the armature & end plates on, then put a single wrap of fine sand paper around the comutator, fit the brushes, & spin the armature a few times to bed the brushes in. Then remove the sand paper.
Be careful what you use to clean it as chemicals can break down the windings, armature insulation. Keep it dry and you should be fine.
Good luck 👍
His armature is too worn down to shave it. Better to do a light sanding on it with 400 grit.
Nice Video, brave work without any pull-off tools. Don't clean but replace old bearing or better replace electrical equipment from 6 Volt to 12 Volt.
Good advice man! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
First rule, know your limitations. You are clearly beyond them at this point. Saturate the commutator and can with electronics cleaner or even brake cleaner. That should get rid of all the gunk.
Hi there.. One question is spinning in my mind... Why do you always start dismantling pulleys and bearings stuff with the hammer if you got a nice separator (puller) set in the past? I always avoid like a plague hitting stuff with hammers, although soft ones, if not strictly necessary... It's for the good of not damaging things.. old or new..
Oh, and by the way it seems that my rebuild of the engine in my "mean machine" will come to the list sooner than I anticipated.. =)
I've seen a few videos on youtube using a mixture of household items (like salt,vinegar and flour) to clean copper/brass/silver/gold/bronze ..they also make products like Magic Vanish which should make the job easier 😉
🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡
Great idea. I will check it out. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
These woodruff keys are sometimes little bastards because they do not want to come off 😁.
And for the housing is a nice "tipy tappy" with the hammer always a good idea. For cleaning you can use brake cleaner or a parts washer fluid.
It's a very demanding court. Thanks for the video✌
Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Saludos cordiales hermano. Excelente video. Vaya que si necesita su limpieza. Verás que quedará muy bien. Oye mi combi la pienso dejar así tal cual está la tuya oxidada.
Maybe soak all the part in wd40 then scrub with little wire brush the brake cleaner to remove wd40. A little polishing or paint on the case would be cool👍🏻
you should look inside the regulator. i know that the screw in the center just holds the cover. the internals are riveted and soldered in. there are also a set of contact points in there that might need cleaning if it has been sitting for that long. if the points are dirty you wont get power out of the generator.
Hey Donald! I will do that. I wanted to open it but want sure. I will like to see what's under it. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Drive a flat blade screwdriver between the plate collar and generator front plate
Tips?. I guess that that bearing must get out with heat as you've seen other times. BTW do always use something like a rag on the vice if you don't like scratches and marks in the piece that it's holding. About cleaning the generator I would use white vinegar and a brush and contact cleaner to finish. ;)
As contact cleaner you can use as cheapest method some 99% isopropyl alcohol. The best comercial method is DeoxIt, very expensive and also very, very good.
no experience here on your generator rebuilt, i did some brushes exchange years ago...the content of this video was interesting...you are moving right along
Thanks Tom! We will learn together my friend! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Be careful with the armature CT its a very delicate part dude try not to bang it up and scrap it up any... thanks
Brake parts cleaner and contact cleaner is the best things I have found to clean the inside of a old generation then clean the place where the brushes ride with fine Embry cloth
no, it eats the varnish off the windings! absolutley not recommended. that armature/commutator needs to be lathed cut, its beyond emery cloth and drill
I was an apprentice auto electrician in the early seventies and worked on these almost daily. I am yet to see the video, I'm commenting because you asked if anyone had ever worked on them. The only tip I have is this. If you want to remove the generator with the engine still in the vehicle, you need a special tool, a bent spanner/wrench to get it out. Now I'll watch the video.
Hey Dan, that's really cool! Let me know if you have any tips on how to clean them and what parts to replace. Thank you! =)
Ciao hai bisogno di una morsa da banco , cacciavite ha percussione
Love your channel CT!
Thanks Doug! Stay tuned for more !
Hi CT, you must be busy making a new video. Looking forward to it. Tim
Hi CT, this is Göran from Sweden. I really like your videos. When do you "plan" to get Rusty ready for the road. 😎 BR Göran Hedlund
instead of using brute to unscrew that long bolt, you could have used a 10mill spanner and a set of vice grips to undo it
Here's a tip to get a bearing off.....how about a bearing puller!!!!!
HAHA! Ok I will get one! =)
watch the restore videos on yourtube i have seen them take one apart and shining the inside and replace the bearings and bushings put it back to gather and it worked
That pulley will never run true again, next time rest the pulley over a vice and tap the shaft out.
If really wants to ever consider himself to be a any kind of mechanic, he needs a press. You can get them at HF for about $100 with a coupon.
I believe in a pulley that old and rusted it's damaged enough to not worry about the tear down. It's best to replace it so it doesn't wear or burnout you're belts prematurely. Plus you already have it off so it's easy to replace it and there won't be any questions on the integrity for long distance travel!
@@jcgjcg3844 I don't know if it's the same now but, back when I was a VW mechanic, the aftermarket pulleys were total junk. I always tried to use the German ones if possible.
@@stevewarren3051 I see that as being logical. But he doesn't need a aftermarket. Due to the high demand of these vehicles there are numerous amounts of stored old new parts. It may take a little looking but I'm am %100 sure he can and will find one. But judging from the amount of surface damage even after market would be better then a reuse of this particular one.
@@jcgjcg3844 When i was fixing VW's you could only get original VW parts or cheap knockoffs. Mexican or Brazilian parts may be as good as original now.
Read the manual. You can not damage the windings inside.
Thanks Raymond. I'm researching this week on how to work n these. It is very interesting. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
17'30, Remember the old finnish word "Perrrkele". You'll get power of it.... Regards Stig Österberg, Dalsbruk, Finland.....
No 12 Volt yet? The teeth on section 11 on the rotor should be deeper then 3mm
If not refurb or replace. Refurb as diy is a bit tricky as there it need to be refit very
exactly. If no reman or replacement ask an builder who makes electro motors
transformators IN-HOUSE.
NEVER put a rotor in a vice. Clamp only the shaft. Remove the key from in- to out-side. We use(d) slightly angled tools to get them out. 1rs bearings=dust shield
Sr. hay una herramienta que se llama extractor y se usa para sacar las tapas del dinamo gracias for you job saludos desde Caracas Venezuela
I had a set rule for working on generators and electric motors. If I took it apart far enough to ask if the bearing needed replacing, I replaced it. Regards, Solomon
I will take that advice my friend! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Why don’t you just dap the nut side off first with your cordless ? Then do the screwdriver end?
Thought you had a vise dude?? If not maybe a good investment?
Yes, I do. I just need to remember to use it. Did you watch the entire video? Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Use the vise grips sideways.
Never use Emery cloth around anything magnetic or electrical always use sandpaper. Emery cloth has metal in it
Work smarter not harder use vise wrap stuff with cloth tag let your tools work for you not the other way around
www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html
www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html and yes use your vise man !
see if your local machine shop has the time to take a skim pass on the commentator to clean it up and level it back out.
you can just clean the housings with your diesel or solvent and a brush just blow it out good. if your gonna try to take the fields out of the case those countersunk bolt are usually very tight and you will need an impact driver
www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html. read the testing instructions well. also lookup "polarizing a regulator" sometimes they lose their way. thanx for the video.
please do not put the armature in a hard jaw vice like that! you can very easily damage the windings like that! do not clean the armature with any solvent based chemicals! it will eat the varnish off the windings and end up with a short. simple dish soap/ water and soft bristle brush (toothbrush)should be fine. that armature/commutator where the brushes contact may need a lathe cut. any local electric motor shop should be able to cut it for you. break in speed to cut the brushes at 1600 rpms
Thanks Adam! that is great advice! I will do that! Stay tuned !
cool just found this video you did and it has just the two wires like mine. watching it currently and hopefully this will be what I was asking about?
did you ever get this back together and test it. that's what I'm really interested in. Thanks
no, I ended up buying one from sol cal...it was like $200 if I remember correctly...I still have this one it's in a bin somewhere...
got mine apart as far as you did just now to clean it. I plan on converting to 12v anyway but just playing with this one to see if I can get it working. did your new one have to post on it rather than the two wires with lugs? actually yours had 3?
Look at restoration videos about how to clean and repair motors. It's the same with generators.
Also, there are videos about restoring power hand tools like jigsaws and drills where they have to clean out the universal motors there, too.
Thanks Steven! That is great advice my friend. I will do that tonight! =)
@@stevenmayhew3944 Awesome! I will check these out tonight!
I guess I would test it before trying to "restore" it. Also you would have been better off putting it in the vise and using the vise as a press to push the bearing/retainer off rather than beating it off with a hammer. Think press whenever bearings are involved.
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man he has a vice but I’m not sure he knows how to use it. That or he isn’t a big fan of holding things solidly in place.
I wish you had a vice...wait...
HAHA!
I'm honestly not trying to be a Troll... but.... nowhere in that service manual does it say "Get a bigger hammer". Although this video speaks volumes about the quality of German steel, wait and get the proper gear/pulley puller. You might also want to procure some soft aluminum angle "soft Jaws" for your vise. I hope you learn something every day. I learned the hard way too.... over 50 years ago.
Thanks Chuck, I appreciate your honesty and I look forward to your advice. Keep it coming and don't hold back! =) I do learn the hard way sometimes....It's just the way I was designed. Stay tuned for more!
CT Brake clean should be ok for the parts
The + sign is the positive , the F sign is the field or earth
View #6,211 at 7:15 PM on 10/16/19 - NJ.....Try OkFixer on TH-cam for a rebuild video.
Great advice John. I will check him out. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Omfg look at the book. You’re asking questions the book will answer. Never works again because you’re hitting it with a hammer. I’m screaming at my tv watching you. I’m so glad you’re getting help rebuilding that engine. From these videos it seems like you just go at things rather than researching it first. Plus use the fast forward edit more often.
Nice job
Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
There's always a first time for everything.
When are you going to start the repaint progress?
I'm going o do all the mechanical bits first. The body work will be later. Stay tuned for more! =)
CT i would suggest you not to install anything on the van is it has to be stripped to get restored properly. I would also suggest you to do a research on rust and paint stripping companies ( which will dip it in chemicals to remove rust and paint ) and then go to a ktl company which will do the ecoat ( high strength corrosion protection ) the ktl part is the most important of all don’t skip it ! Also fix the holes before getting it dipped so the repaired areas will stay protected as well !
@@type2523 I will look into it. That sounds very interesting. Thanks for the tip! =)
I think he can pull stuff apart but has a problem putting stuff back together ....am I wrong ?
CT a ktl bath is one of the best things you can do because it protects areas the paint won’t reach
did you ever hear of a vice?
Yes, I just need to remember to use it! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Stop blaming things on rust. It’s your lack of knowledge(even though that book is there) duh you have to remove the woodruff key. And it wasn’t rusted it, it’s a Precision Machined fit 😒. I’m bitchy but I do thumbs up and watch every video because I’m enjoying the progress of your project.
Why not turn the nuts with a wrench?
Hey Edward. Great idea. I will do that next time. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
alternator is key parts... copper wire seems bad condition...
yes, you might be right. I will let you know. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Tap the end of the armature.
Good idea! =)
You got the book read the book before you beat on things with a hammer or anything for that matter
Soft jaws CT....soft jaws!
i was screaming into the screen the same thing!
@@adamwing9301 Yes, I need to make some soft jaws! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Good idea! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Super 👍 😀
Thanks Paco! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Don’t Damage Vw you just playing
staying 6v
ur using 4:30 min before u start with what u wanna do in this video --- the rest of the time was "stay tuned, stay tuned, stay ....." yaaaaaaawn, i just closed
Thanks Stiff Wood. You are an inspiration to us all! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Tudo bom CT ! voce ja pensou em passar para 12 v ? tenho um fusca 6 v acho muito deficiente e passa insegurança nas viagens.... saudaçoes do Brasil
Yes, I thought about it and I might do that someday. I wanted to keep everything on Rusty original factory OEM if possible. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
@@CTmoog 6V is actually a good system. The reason people think it isn't is the brightness of the headlights and taillights. The reason for this is, on pre '67 cars, the wiring to the lights is usually corroded. It's the corrosion that causes the lights to appear to be dimmer. When you upgrade to 12v, the lights will appear brighter because they draw less amps and the corrosion effect of the wiring is less of a factor.
@@stevewarren3051 Sim Steve os fios se oxidam internamente e diminue a tensão da corrente, eu estou usando uma bateria da Optima americana é muito boa mas so tem 50 amper , estou pensando em colocar uma de 150 amper para ter melhor partida .saudaçoes do Braisil
Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
@@lucianosilveira3945 That will not do any good. A higher amp battery will not make the starter turn faster. The starter is designed to draw a fixed amount of amps. The corrosion in the wires will still block the ability of the starter to draw enough amps to turn faster. The solution is to run new wiring from the battery to the starter and from the ignition switch to the starter.
Do u have a vise near
Yes, I just need to remember to use it. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
17:38 you should have take the nut first
I can’t take it. Just take it to a a shop that knows what to do. Some things are better left to the pros.