This is going to bring back some memories for me. Did Amph Butt back in 2001. Approached from the Dolgarrog side, almost got eaten by an adder on the way in. Got to the base of the route, and discovered that not only had none of us (Group of 3) remembered to bring a guidebook, we'd not brought any food either.....Great planning from 3 instructors PMSL. Epic adventure that will stay in my memories forever!
I live and have been instructing climbing, mountaineering, caving, skiing etc etc for some 40yrs. My two most memorable times on this route were once doing it in winter, the second time as a member of Ogwen Valley MRT spending several hours at night on a rescue. Your video brought back good memories, thanks.
I did this on one of my first visits to North Wales some 43 years ago! The road was unlocked then so we drove up to the reservoir - cheating! We actually down climbed AB and climbed back up Great Gully. We also did a few routes on the main buttress - Mur y Niwl and the like. Probably an easier approach is to descend the gully between AB and the main buttress, just a bit tricky/loose at the very top but easy to rig a rope as a line.
Nice video, thanks for sharing. When a mate & I did this we took the cautious approach with rope & gear as VDiff is the top of his game. After the gendarme we breezed across the 'garden fence' feature as you did. After topping out we saw a couple taking at least 20 minutes on that section, they both did it roped up 'a cheval' & the young lady did not appear to be enjoying it!
I wouldn't call it a scramble, it's graded as V.Dif and while not hard for the grade still demands care.There used to be a piton on the crux but that's long gone. For some alpine style fun do it under snowy conditions as I did with friends many years ago,
I also found the repeated use of the word scrambling alarming. It most definitely isn't a scramble and describing it as such could encourage less experienced folk to bite off a lot more than they can chew.
I would personally describe it as a grade 3s scramble, with a crux sequence going at VD. Grade 3s as defined in most guidebooks includes short sections of climbing up to VD in addition to the scrambling, which this route fits. However, I totally agree with your point here - anyone thinking about this route (or any scramble) should attempt it well-informed and adequately equipped for the route. To most novices, that means that this should be undertaken as a multi-pitch VD rather than as a scramble. This video is not a guide!
This is going to bring back some memories for me. Did Amph Butt back in 2001. Approached from the Dolgarrog side, almost got eaten by an adder on the way in. Got to the base of the route, and discovered that not only had none of us (Group of 3) remembered to bring a guidebook, we'd not brought any food either.....Great planning from 3 instructors PMSL. Epic adventure that will stay in my memories forever!
I live and have been instructing climbing, mountaineering, caving, skiing etc etc for some 40yrs. My two most memorable times on this route were once doing it in winter, the second time as a member of Ogwen Valley MRT spending several hours at night on a rescue. Your video brought back good memories, thanks.
Your videos are so well put together, very enjoyable watches. keep it up!!
Another top notch video.
Rob’s vlog made me laugh, especially Lucy’s reaction to it.
I did this on one of my first visits to North Wales some 43 years ago! The road was unlocked then so we drove up to the reservoir - cheating! We actually down climbed AB and climbed back up Great Gully. We also did a few routes on the main buttress - Mur y Niwl and the like. Probably an easier approach is to descend the gully between AB and the main buttress, just a bit tricky/loose at the very top but easy to rig a rope as a line.
Nice video, thanks for sharing. When a mate & I did this we took the cautious approach with rope & gear as VDiff is the top of his game. After the gendarme we breezed across the 'garden fence' feature as you did. After topping out we saw a couple taking at least 20 minutes on that section, they both did it roped up 'a cheval' & the young lady did not appear to be enjoying it!
Great video. I hope my stuff was as good.
It’s on Craig Yr Ysfa.
I wouldn't call it a scramble, it's graded as V.Dif and while not hard for the grade still demands care.There used to be a piton on the crux but that's long gone. For some alpine style fun do it under snowy conditions as I did with friends many years ago,
I also found the repeated use of the word scrambling alarming. It most definitely isn't a scramble and describing it as such could encourage less experienced folk to bite off a lot more than they can chew.
I would personally describe it as a grade 3s scramble, with a crux sequence going at VD. Grade 3s as defined in most guidebooks includes short sections of climbing up to VD in addition to the scrambling, which this route fits.
However, I totally agree with your point here - anyone thinking about this route (or any scramble) should attempt it well-informed and adequately equipped for the route. To most novices, that means that this should be undertaken as a multi-pitch VD rather than as a scramble. This video is not a guide!
Looks really cool!