I'm 74 years old and I'm working on my 2000 dodge dakota that got right rear quarter panel hit by a hit & run driver and I've learned so much from your videos. I haven't done any body work in years atleast since the 70s. Keep up the educational down to earth videos. They are really a joy to watch.
@@LakesideAutobody I love US Auto in Sterling Heights (and occasionally the one in Wayne), Parts Galore on 8 mile usually has a good selection, and I hit U-Pull and Save in Pontiac a fair amount. I like these because the cars are all up off the ground and they inventory the cars online. There's another one in Detroit that I've been to a couple times, but I don't remember the name.
@@jayinmi3706 Ha! I love parts Galore on 8 mile. I had a Matco metal hole saw kit on a cordless drill and would find "never used" tires (spare that were rusted in place on Ford Explorers 235/75/15s) You could cut around the mount/hanger and the tire would drop right down. I'd take the tire off the rim in the yard BY HAND! because it was 15 for the tire and 15 for the rim - didn't want to spend the extra $. I used them on my van at the time - it always had great tires on it :)
Wow! That is impressive. It's obvious you have a ton of experience and a treat to watch you work. Thanks for posting this. It A) gives me hope that my project is not beyond hope, and B) makes me realize that I am just going to pay a professional to do it. Besides the sheer skill and know-how, there are a lot of tools besides the frame puller. I wish I lived closer so I could just bring it over. The trick is going to be finding somebody who is willing to do this kind of work here in Denver. I started calling around and found that the big shops just don't want to mess with it. Great video!
Thanks for the support Adam - that would be cool if I were close for sure. I think if you shop around though you may find a smaller shop that will help you. Usually the smaller, no name guys will help more than the "large fish" as they sometimes need the work :)
Nice job! Great fit and body lines. It looked difficult around the right tail light and window radius. Your skill is amazing. Awaiting the next video! Thanks for sharing.
You sir do truly amazing work! Comparing the first part of the vid and the last, you can hardly tell it was bashed it. Looking forward to the coming vids!
Thanks - gotta love Michigan - no big bugs or snakes that can kill you, no earth quakes, floods or tornadoes and tons of trees and snow for the holidays :)
curtis plz dont fall in love with the smell of bondo . it will kill you and give you lung damage and get your sinus. 48 yrs in the collision business that shit builds up it kills wear a particle mask be safe!!it got my lungs. be safe wear a mask!!
Poor Lions - I think it all starts with a smart quarterback - someone who can change plays at the line - and picks apart defenses - Good Super Bowl though this year :)
👍pulling down half way Out with jack pushing up and then pulling straight Up without using jack first and then again pushing up using jack while pulling down second.
your shop reminds me of another place about 70 miles north of where your at.this video is actually better than some of the icar videos. hands on no bs talk. dam lucky you can still use the o'l dozer. i have the champ unibench 2 brewco pulling post 24 3" tie downs in my floor.you worked the 1/4 out dam good. i have been there on what your doing plenty of times.it just surprises me on the dozer?dont fool your self champ has some good shit. real good job. been thinking of buying a used celette but no room.then ask your self if you really need a rack/bench? takes up no space.i like the old school pulling as i have now. i use truway books for my specs also. for what you got to work with you did pretty dam good.
Thanks so much - very cool of you. I'd like some thing that does more more this is really all I could fit in this small garage. I started when young using the Kansas Jack power post, pull pots, etc. Nothing easier than a drive on rack though like a Chief EZ liner. Drive it up - clamp it down and start pulling from any angle. Is Celette the top of the line? I appreciate the support - have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody i have a small shop also. nothing wrong with a o'l k-j post. i bet you know some of the people i know in your neighborhood?people like g&t auto farm the grossbeck ppl! we both share the same ideas were builders.bet you would like some of the equipment i have? self centering gauges no 1 else has for miles around. dent fix digital tram.sometimes i think we got better shit than dealers. there is hardly no pulling at the dealership. they just pull sheet metal.we should hook up 1 day shop talk! i remember the dozer got swatted on top of my head when i was 12 yrs old . my brothers stood there and told me to not look straight at it i was a dumb f2ck and it got me.i am as old as dirt on this shit! i am 60 now.made my living off totals from the auctions.salvage titles.been sick thats what brings to utube.cant work much with lung disease.dam glad to see you with a mask on.1 day look at the color of the grinding sparks then you can id the type of steel used. i am firm no heat .i even got inductor pads to heat rails but i rather cold pull and pound my ass off!
@jim griffee My uncle used to fix up totals - he lived in Capac, MI - I think the auction was in Capac too. I got a couple from there back in the 80's - you'd write how much you'd give for the vehicle and if yours was the highest bid - come pick up your car! - Are you familiar with any of these, JR's Custom Paint, Dietrich's, Mike's Collision, Professional Finish, Jim's Collison on Harper? Real familiar with Groesbeck, 8 mile (parts galore), Gratiot, Van Dyke, etc Used to live in Grosse Pointe Woods, Dryden, grew up in Utica, MI Were you talking about Groesbeck Automotive Paint Supply? G+T Auto Sales in Port Huron?
@@LakesideAutobody never heard of salvage auction in capac? i am from sandusky. i used to go to a auction on livernoise then they went to tech core by dtw now its iaai. lot of ppl like co-part. these auctions move place to place. now flint and davison has auctions. i am well educated in collision technology certified in unitized body. i even have did several rear clips.1/2 of another car and no dog tracking. at 1 time i was in it heavy. now i am not shit.health issues beaumont cant fix.so i got to hang tuff till march 30th go to mayo clinic.if i can make it through all this health shit i want to move. dont be afraid to call me?i might learn shit from you and you may learn shit from me?if i dont make it i may want to sell every tool i got.
@@jimgriffee723 Are you from Sandusky, MI or Ohio. I wish you all the best in your health - I say a few prayers for you - sometimes they work :) I'm always open to learning stuff - keep in touch. Jerry
Generally on rear shunts like this, the points where the boot/trunk hinges mount to the "parcel shelf" will have moved. Maybe not by much, but even small movement there will do your head in trying to get the shutlines to work. There's also a good chance that one or other hinge itself has twisted slightly - which will also throw the lid fitment right out. So if the lid won't sit right, maybe check those, might save a lot of messing about.
Great video! I was just looking at some damage on my project car and wondering what would be needed to fix it. I imagine that one of those frame machines is out of the price range for a hobbyist, but I saw one of your comments about getting help from a small shop for stuff like this which seems like a good idea. On my car (1984 Porsche 944) the front left part of the occupant compartment was pushed in at one time and a bit of the floor is bumped up. It was repaired “sort of” many years ago, but doesn’t look right to me. Any thoughts on whether some lower cost tools could work to straighten things up. A bit hard without seeing any pictures though eh? Thanks for all of the great videos!
Heavy rigging meets Art.!! Nice job, enjoyed watching that process. Very well done. Is this something common in your shop.? I would think most insurance companies would write off a car like that.
This was a "repairable" purchased at an auction so it was written off by the ins. co. as it needed a trunk floor, quarter, rear panel, bumper assembly, tail lights, deck lid, exhaust, and more. I did get all the parts I needed at a very reasonable price from Highway Auto Parts in Roseville MI. Thanks for the support BTW - have a great week.
I liked it. Very simple and easy to clean. I'm looking forward to spraying some clear with it. It has a super wide pattern if you need it but I sort of squeeze it down a bit. Have a good weekend :)
I like your videos a lot. I have an old volvo p1800 1970 unibody construction. The frame is bent or twisted, and the rear left side is about an 3/4 inch higher than the right rear side fender. I need to twist it back in position, so the rear end is even. What would be the best way to take care of this issue. I am thinking that the car needs to be on a steel frame machine and pinch clamped and pushed up on the right rear side to get the rear end frame back in level. I don't have equipment and would appreciate some advice or maybe a shop that work on older cars.
You're right - on a professional frame rack there are 4 pinch weld clamps that hold the car firm and you would then pull up, down, etc. depending on what you needed to straighten. Take a look at this old dozer frame machine manual - maybe you could get some ideas from it - s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.autobodytoolmart.com/downloads/tech-sheets/BodyStraightener.pdf Let me know what you plan on doing :)
Do you think the twist damage shown of page 4 could be done on a unibody frame? If you set up a jack on both ends of the I-beam, would you locate the jacks on the pinch weld with blocking? I like the idea but would need the equipment. I am in the metro Detroit area and have not been able to find any shops that would take on this job yet.
@@peterferro I think you could accomplish it with some creativity like you are saying. There has to be a shop down there that will take that on. Try Professional Finish in Romeo - they are good people and have very good equipment to do that type of work :)
$1,782 delivered. I can't remember how long it took to get here - maybe 1-2 weeks. That was before Covid though. I chose the air foot pump instead of the hand pump so it can be cheaper too :)
What size and brand of c clamp are you using? I have a bent bumper bracket on an 05 f150 and used a small c clamp from HF along with the porta power puller from HF and it bent the c clamp to the point that it's useless! lol
That's a 4" Great Neck C clamp but it's pretty old so it may have been made better than today's. If you can find a C clamp made in USA - that will probably hold up. "Martin" makes them too but they're a bit expensive.
Hello, Did Your Champ Frame Straightener Come With The Pinch Weld Clamps On Yours? The One On The Ad Picture On Autobodytoolmart Website Link In the Video Does Not Look Like Yours< Let alone Strong Like Yours... ?
That's why the insurance co. didn't want to fix it. The cost of the repair would have be over the worth of the car. It needed new: Deck lid, quarter panel, trunk floor, rear panel (includes what you were describing), bumper assembly, tail lights, and a bunch of other plastic parts that were swept up at the accident scene. I will spend around $500 to fix it. The bent up rear panel "tail lamp pocket" looks better when you consider the cost of replacing stuff :)
This is the way we used to fix redline cars the used car dealer bought from the auction. Replace as little as possible Straighten the rest. I am a big believer in custom made plates.
If the frame rail and Quarter or not replace along with the back panel does that mean that you don't have the same strength integrity. Do professional body shops replace those panels after they're pulled?
Yes they would replace them but that's why this car was totaled by the insurance co - the cost exceeded the worth of the vehicle. My honest opinion on the strength integrity is this: If you get hit hard by another car - it really won't make a difference if it was a new panel or an old panel - your stuff is going to be wrecked. I believe that there is a push from the car companies to replace because of $. Lots of cars are totaled and lots of new parts are sold. After this car was repaired there really wasn't a lot of difference in the panels anyway - they came out pretty straight and just as study. That's just my thoughts though so....:)
these cars are ins.co's totals! keep that in mind! jerry does dam good! he is right if ins.co's replaced all the parts it would be more than the cars worth! i hope jerry got a good green michigan title on this car?
So why are insurance companies so quick to write off vehicles which can be repaired? Straightening used to be done all the time in the past. Great video by the way!
There are laws now that make shops repair the vehicle to a certain standard. This cars would have needed: Trunk floor, rear panel, quarter panel, deck lid, bumper assembly, tail lights, and a lot of other plastic stuff that shattered in the accident. It would have cost more than the cars value. There are always new requirements coming out for safety and none of the insurance co's or dealerships want to be held responsible if someone gets injured in a previously repaired car. It's safer to total it.
I really never wrote estimates as I was never a body shop manager or owner - just a worker. Right now I'm retired and just make YT videos so I can't really give you an accurate idea of cost. I know this car was a total loss to an insurance company so the cost of the repair was more than a 2015 Ford Fusion with 86000 miles on it. That means it is quite expensive to have this repair done 🤔 - Jerry
Too bad you're no near me, I would bring my car to you for sure. I have a 89 mustang and I believe the frame is ever so slightly shifted. The rest of the damage was already repaired but not the frame. How much does it cost generally to just straighten the frame?
I completely depends on the shop. This would not be an insurance job so no adjuster to monitor the estimate. My best advice is to go to a few shops and get some estimates. You may find a huge difference in prices. Could be anywhere from a few hundred dollars to over a thousand. Sorry I could not be more accurate. :)
look at about 75 $ a hour for frame work. so 3-4 hundred dollars is not out of the ball park. i get 75$ and give out your moneys worth of pulls.big shop more costs!
Sometimes you have to use heat when you really need it. I'm not opposed to using it but many will say it changes the characteristics of the metal - making it stiffer, brittle, etc. I've never had an issue with any thing negative happening from using heat though :)
![[DRIP] ‘BILLIONAIRE’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m0eXQD0gIeE/mqdefault.jpg)
You are the first TH-camr that’s made a video actually explaining the process of frame straightening entirely thank you
Thanks for the support - that's good to hear. Glad you enjoyed it :)
Yes he is…I have recommended his frame straightening videos to my Collision Repair teacher for his next semester
I'm 74 years old and I'm working on my 2000 dodge dakota that got right rear quarter panel hit by a hit & run driver and I've learned so much from your videos. I haven't done any body work in years atleast since the 70s. Keep up the educational down to earth videos. They are really a joy to watch.
I'm so glad to hear that Keith. Let me know how your project works out for you. Merry Christmas 🎄
Truly remarkable! This is certainly the finest instructive automotive paint/body channel ever.
I appreciate the support Johan - have a good weekend :)
Nice to see these cars finally making it to u-pull-it yards. Handy for guys flipping cars if you need parts cheap.
I love U-Pull yards - not many left in Detroit anymore :)
@@LakesideAutobody I love US Auto in Sterling Heights (and occasionally the one in Wayne), Parts Galore on 8 mile usually has a good selection, and I hit U-Pull and Save in Pontiac a fair amount. I like these because the cars are all up off the ground and they inventory the cars online. There's another one in Detroit that I've been to a couple times, but I don't remember the name.
@@jayinmi3706 Ha! I love parts Galore on 8 mile. I had a Matco metal hole saw kit on a cordless drill and would find "never used" tires (spare that were rusted in place on Ford Explorers 235/75/15s) You could cut around the mount/hanger and the tire would drop right down. I'd take the tire off the rim in the yard BY HAND! because it was 15 for the tire and 15 for the rim - didn't want to spend the extra $. I used them on my van at the time - it always had great tires on it :)
Wow! That is impressive. It's obvious you have a ton of experience and a treat to watch you work. Thanks for posting this. It A) gives me hope that my project is not beyond hope, and B) makes me realize that I am just going to pay a professional to do it. Besides the sheer skill and know-how, there are a lot of tools besides the frame puller. I wish I lived closer so I could just bring it over. The trick is going to be finding somebody who is willing to do this kind of work here in Denver. I started calling around and found that the big shops just don't want to mess with it. Great video!
Thanks for the support Adam - that would be cool if I were close for sure. I think if you shop around though you may find a smaller shop that will help you. Usually the smaller, no name guys will help more than the "large fish" as they sometimes need the work :)
A sharp eye and a heavy hammer goes a long way on jobs like this one, great stuff Jerry another top notch video 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks 👍 Yes the heavy hammer goes a long way :)
Nice job! Great fit and body lines. It looked difficult around the right tail light and window radius. Your skill is amazing. Awaiting the next video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it. Have a good weekend :)
My T-Bone looks nothing like those damages, thanks for reassure me on my repairs :)
A day using that must be a very satisfying thing. I even enjoy watching it.
It is a good time for sure - especially if stuff fits after you pull 😊✌
What an auto body repair man my hats off to you sir thoroughly enjoy watching a skilled craftsman
Thanks so much Dan - glad you enjoy them. Have a great weekend - Jerry
This guy is very, very good.
I appreciate your support - thanks :)
Amazing work I'm serving my apprenticeship watching your videos Thanks for sharing.
Thanks - that's nice to hear. Have a good week :)
Thanks man I shared this video with a buddy of mine who's in the market for one of those pullers. So when he gets his I can borrow it 😁
Great idea - I recently loaned it to a local body shop and he liked it. Super tough little machine.
SO FUN TO WATCH
You sir do truly amazing work! Comparing the first part of the vid and the last, you can hardly tell it was bashed it. Looking forward to the coming vids!
Thanks - have a good weekend Ethan :)
Amazing work Jerry. When you were using the sledge hammer it reminded me of one of my father's favorite sayings - Don't force it, use a bigger hammer!
That's a great saying - I'm going to use that. I love sayings like that, "That road is rougher 'n a cob!" Good stuff.
A saying when I was working in Aerospace - "Measure with calipers, mark it with a sharpie, and cut it with an axe".
Your a true body man that can do it all.
Thanks Jeff - glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend :)
Now that’s what you call “upsetting the metal”. Good stuff as usual Jerry. By the way - now a bit nearer to painting the Puma.
Very cool - look forward to seeing it. Again, that's a cool little car :)
Great job ! Nice gaps too.
I love nice gaps - love 'em - :)
I love when you do these I’m looking
Forward to seeing the body work and paint thank you great work 😊
Thanks 👍 - I glad to hear you are looking forward to the final results.
@@LakesideAutobody I loved watching you do the mustang a while back definitely looking forward to it 😊
Wow. Good Job. Gaps are straight. Clean lines.
Glad you enjoyed it - thanks :)
Nice job. You really know what you are doing. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Thanks - I appreciate the support :)
Nicely done Bud!! You make it look easy!!☺
Thanks my friend - have a great weekend :)
Nice video . Another Michigan man here. My dad build a frame puller similar to yours. They work great. Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks - gotta love Michigan - no big bugs or snakes that can kill you, no earth quakes, floods or tornadoes and tons of trees and snow for the holidays :)
Wow. That's a big job. Way over my head. Looks great.
Lov that frame machine!
Always wanted one.
Life got in the way.
P.s. lov the smell of bondo. Lol
Yep - love the smell of a mechanic garage, body shop and the smell of a house being built :)
curtis plz dont fall in love with the smell of bondo . it will kill you and give you lung damage and get your sinus. 48 yrs in the collision business that shit builds up it kills wear a particle mask be safe!!it got my lungs. be safe wear a mask!!
Craftsmanship, skill,experience, good job and go lions
Poor Lions - I think it all starts with a smart quarterback - someone who can change plays at the line - and picks apart defenses - Good Super Bowl though this year :)
Nice Work. I admire your talents Sir!
Thank you - that's nice to hear. Have a good weekend :)
Work of art.
Wow
Thanks Juan - have a great weekend :)
Love all your knowledge you share! Not sure why people give it thumbs down but there's always "that guy" i suppose...
I'm sure you get a bit of that too. Just gotta stay positive at all times Snake.
@@LakesideAutobody u bet. Wish others would...
@@DCopp Yes - I've read some garbage that folks say on your channel - ignore it. They are just not very happy with themselves - that's it - period :)
👍pulling down half way Out with jack pushing up and then pulling straight Up without using jack first and then again pushing up using jack while pulling down second.
Great to see a tradie at work. You could give this gear to some called bodyman wouldn't know what to do with it.
Great video as usual thanks. AL
Thanks Al - glad you appreciate the work - have a great week :)
your shop reminds me of another place about 70 miles north of where your at.this video is actually better than some of the icar videos. hands on no bs talk. dam lucky you can still use the o'l dozer. i have the champ unibench 2 brewco pulling post 24 3" tie downs in my floor.you worked the 1/4 out dam good. i have been there on what your doing plenty of times.it just surprises me on the dozer?dont fool your self champ has some good shit. real good job. been thinking of buying a used celette but no room.then ask your self if you really need a rack/bench? takes up no space.i like the old school pulling as i have now. i use truway books for my specs also. for what you got to work with you did pretty dam good.
Thanks so much - very cool of you. I'd like some thing that does more more this is really all I could fit in this small garage. I started when young using the Kansas Jack power post, pull pots, etc. Nothing easier than a drive on rack though like a Chief EZ liner. Drive it up - clamp it down and start pulling from any angle. Is Celette the top of the line? I appreciate the support - have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody i have a small shop also. nothing wrong with a o'l k-j post. i bet you know some of the people i know in your neighborhood?people like g&t auto farm the grossbeck ppl! we both share the same ideas were builders.bet you would like some of the equipment i have? self centering gauges no 1 else has for miles around. dent fix digital tram.sometimes i think we got better shit than dealers. there is hardly no pulling at the dealership. they just pull sheet metal.we should hook up 1 day shop talk! i remember the dozer got swatted on top of my head when i was 12 yrs old . my brothers stood there and told me to not look straight at it i was a dumb f2ck and it got me.i am as old as dirt on this shit! i am 60 now.made my living off totals from the auctions.salvage titles.been sick thats what brings to utube.cant work much with lung disease.dam glad to see you with a mask on.1 day look at the color of the grinding sparks then you can id the type of steel used. i am firm no heat .i even got inductor pads to heat rails but i rather cold pull and pound my ass off!
@jim griffee My uncle used to fix up totals - he lived in Capac, MI - I think the auction was in Capac too. I got a couple from there back in the 80's - you'd write how much you'd give for the vehicle and if yours was the highest bid - come pick up your car! - Are you familiar with any of these, JR's Custom Paint, Dietrich's, Mike's Collision, Professional Finish, Jim's Collison on Harper? Real familiar with Groesbeck, 8 mile (parts galore), Gratiot, Van Dyke, etc Used to live in Grosse Pointe Woods, Dryden, grew up in Utica, MI Were you talking about Groesbeck Automotive Paint Supply? G+T Auto Sales in Port Huron?
@@LakesideAutobody never heard of salvage auction in capac? i am from sandusky. i used to go to a auction on livernoise then they went to tech core by dtw now its iaai. lot of ppl like co-part. these auctions move place to place. now flint and davison has auctions. i am well educated in collision technology certified in unitized body. i even have did several rear clips.1/2 of another car and no dog tracking. at 1 time i was in it heavy. now i am not shit.health issues beaumont cant fix.so i got to hang tuff till march 30th go to mayo clinic.if i can make it through all this health shit i want to move. dont be afraid to call me?i might learn shit from you and you may learn shit from me?if i dont make it i may want to sell every tool i got.
@@jimgriffee723 Are you from Sandusky, MI or Ohio. I wish you all the best in your health - I say a few prayers for you - sometimes they work :) I'm always open to learning stuff - keep in touch. Jerry
Clever man , well done
Thanks Stuart - enjoy the weekend :)
Great video jerry watching you gives me confidence. thank you for the Jerry stay safe
Thank you - that's nice to hear - have a good weekend :)
I appreciate your videos. Great job keep it coming
I appreciate that - I'll keep them coming - thanks for watching :)
Nice work
Thanks my friend :)
Generally on rear shunts like this, the points where the boot/trunk hinges mount to the "parcel shelf" will have moved. Maybe not by much, but even small movement there will do your head in trying to get the shutlines to work. There's also a good chance that one or other hinge itself has twisted slightly - which will also throw the lid fitment right out.
So if the lid won't sit right, maybe check those, might save a lot of messing about.
True - thanks for your input James 😊💯
Good Job!
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Great video! I was just looking at some damage on my project car and wondering what would be needed to fix it. I imagine that one of those frame machines is out of the price range for a hobbyist, but I saw one of your comments about getting help from a small shop for stuff like this which seems like a good idea.
On my car (1984 Porsche 944) the front left part of the occupant compartment was pushed in at one time and a bit of the floor is bumped up. It was repaired “sort of” many years ago, but doesn’t look right to me. Any thoughts on whether some lower cost tools could work to straighten things up. A bit hard without seeing any pictures though eh?
Thanks for all of the great videos!
Email me some pictures at schoolvideolibrary@gmail.com I'll check them out and get back with you :)
Awesome job!
Thanks for the support :)
Great job thank you for sharing
You're welcome :)
Heavy rigging meets Art.!!
Nice job, enjoyed watching that process. Very well done.
Is this something common in your shop.? I would think most insurance companies would write off a car like that.
This was a "repairable" purchased at an auction so it was written off by the ins. co. as it needed a trunk floor, quarter, rear panel, bumper assembly, tail lights, deck lid, exhaust, and more. I did get all the parts I needed at a very reasonable price from Highway Auto Parts in Roseville MI. Thanks for the support BTW - have a great week.
Wow, that's fantastic
Thanks Dylan - have a good weekend :)
Thank you for this. Subscribed
You're welcome - thanks for the sub - have a good weekend :)
Great video Jerry as always...what’s your thoughts on the Spectrum?
I liked it. Very simple and easy to clean. I'm looking forward to spraying some clear with it. It has a super wide pattern if you need it but I sort of squeeze it down a bit. Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Good to hear that you like it...have a great weekend Jerry!
Great video, Thanks.
You're welcome - always good to hear from you :)
nice work
Thanks - and thanks for the visit :)
I like your videos a lot. I have an old volvo p1800 1970 unibody construction. The frame is bent or twisted, and the rear left side is about an 3/4 inch higher than the right rear side fender. I need to twist it back in position, so the rear end is even. What would be the best way to take care of this issue. I am thinking that the car needs to be on a steel frame machine and pinch clamped and pushed up on the right rear side to get the rear end frame back in level. I don't have equipment and would appreciate some advice or maybe a shop that work on older cars.
You're right - on a professional frame rack there are 4 pinch weld clamps that hold the car firm and you would then pull up, down, etc. depending on what you needed to straighten. Take a look at this old dozer frame machine manual - maybe you could get some ideas from it - s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.autobodytoolmart.com/downloads/tech-sheets/BodyStraightener.pdf Let me know what you plan on doing :)
Do you think the twist damage shown of page 4 could be done on a unibody frame? If you set up a jack on both ends of the I-beam, would you locate the jacks on the pinch weld with blocking? I like the idea but would need the equipment. I am in the metro Detroit area and have not been able to find any shops that would take on this job yet.
@@peterferro I think you could accomplish it with some creativity like you are saying. There has to be a shop down there that will take that on. Try Professional Finish in Romeo - they are good people and have very good equipment to do that type of work :)
A1 job so how much would that frame machine cost with shipping and handling and how long is the wait time
$1,782 delivered. I can't remember how long it took to get here - maybe 1-2 weeks. That was before Covid though. I chose the air foot pump instead of the hand pump so it can be cheaper too :)
One more question where did it ship from?
@@1605411 www.autobodytoolmart.com Let me know if you order one and how you like it :)
👏👏👏
great work brother . where did you get your frame machine from?
Auto Body Toolmart - I don't think they make the exact same one anymore but they do have one a lot like it.
What size and brand of c clamp are you using? I have a bent bumper bracket on an 05 f150 and used a small c clamp from HF along with the porta power puller from HF and it bent the c clamp to the point that it's useless! lol
That's a 4" Great Neck C clamp but it's pretty old so it may have been made better than today's. If you can find a C clamp made in USA - that will probably hold up. "Martin" makes them too but they're a bit expensive.
@@LakesideAutobody thanks, I refer to your videos to get ideas to fix my truck!
Hello, Did Your Champ Frame Straightener Come With The Pinch Weld Clamps On Yours? The One On The Ad Picture On Autobodytoolmart Website Link In the Video Does Not Look Like Yours< Let alone Strong Like Yours... ?
Yes - they came with the puller :)
@@LakesideAutobody Ok, thanks. What do you think about the swivel type puller? It looks like it makes angle pulling easier.. ??
Nice work. What do you do if your frame is aluminum?
Have to get a tig welder I guess - I've been meaning to get one but they're quite expensive.
Nice bent up tail lamp pocket paint over it when needed to be replace
That's why the insurance co. didn't want to fix it. The cost of the repair would have be over the worth of the car. It needed new: Deck lid, quarter panel, trunk floor, rear panel (includes what you were describing), bumper assembly, tail lights, and a bunch of other plastic parts that were swept up at the accident scene. I will spend around $500 to fix it. The bent up rear panel "tail lamp pocket" looks better when you consider the cost of replacing stuff :)
This is the way we used to fix redline cars the used car dealer bought from the auction. Replace as little as possible
Straighten the rest. I am a big believer in custom made plates.
@@georgemichaels2325 Thanks for the comment George - have a good weekend :)
If the frame rail and Quarter or not replace along with the back panel does that mean that you don't have the same strength integrity. Do professional body shops replace those panels after they're pulled?
Yes they would replace them but that's why this car was totaled by the insurance co - the cost exceeded the worth of the vehicle. My honest opinion on the strength integrity is this: If you get hit hard by another car - it really won't make a difference if it was a new panel or an old panel - your stuff is going to be wrecked. I believe that there is a push from the car companies to replace because of $. Lots of cars are totaled and lots of new parts are sold. After this car was repaired there really wasn't a lot of difference in the panels anyway - they came out pretty straight and just as study. That's just my thoughts though so....:)
these cars are ins.co's totals! keep that in mind! jerry does dam good! he is right if ins.co's replaced all the parts it would be more than the cars worth! i hope jerry got a good green michigan title on this car?
So why are insurance companies so quick to write off vehicles which can be repaired? Straightening used to be done all the time in the past. Great video by the way!
There are laws now that make shops repair the vehicle to a certain standard. This cars would have needed: Trunk floor, rear panel, quarter panel, deck lid, bumper assembly, tail lights, and a lot of other plastic stuff that shattered in the accident. It would have cost more than the cars value. There are always new requirements coming out for safety and none of the insurance co's or dealerships want to be held responsible if someone gets injured in a previously repaired car. It's safer to total it.
@@LakesideAutobody It's 80% of the wholesale value. Above that and it's not worth messing with.
@@georgemichaels2325 Thanks for the info :)
How much would you charge to do that exact repair on another car.
I really never wrote estimates as I was never a body shop manager or owner - just a worker. Right now I'm retired and just make YT videos so I can't really give you an accurate idea of cost. I know this car was a total loss to an insurance company so the cost of the repair was more than a 2015 Ford Fusion with 86000 miles on it. That means it is quite expensive to have this repair done 🤔 - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Oh ok, I have a partner with similar damage, was trying to find a quality place to refer them too, but thanks for the fast reply.
Where is your shop located? I'm in Royal Oak :)
I'm near Houghton and Higgins lake.
Try cam auto glue products is amazing
Thanks for the info GP - I'll have to give it a try one time :)
It takes a long time to straighten the vehicle. For viewers with little patience but still want to learn, you can watch the video at 2X.
True - I do that a lot with videos 👍
Too bad you're no near me, I would bring my car to you for sure. I have a 89 mustang and I believe the frame is ever so slightly shifted. The rest of the damage was already repaired but not the frame. How much does it cost generally to just straighten the frame?
I completely depends on the shop. This would not be an insurance job so no adjuster to monitor the estimate. My best advice is to go to a few shops and get some estimates. You may find a huge difference in prices. Could be anywhere from a few hundred dollars to over a thousand. Sorry I could not be more accurate. :)
@@LakesideAutobody That's still good. I really appreciate the response. Even 1000 isn't too much.
look at about 75 $ a hour for frame work. so 3-4 hundred dollars is not out of the ball park. i get 75$ and give out your moneys worth of pulls.big shop more costs!
Could you use heat or would that be the wrong way to go?
Sometimes you have to use heat when you really need it. I'm not opposed to using it but many will say it changes the characteristics of the metal - making it stiffer, brittle, etc. I've never had an issue with any thing negative happening from using heat though :)
no heat on uhss or hss! you will take the temper out of the steel with heat.thats why we cold pull and pound our ass off!!
A+!,
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Hopefully it's a salvage title car
Bro how??? You resurrected it
Thanks Robert - glad you enjoyed watching it. Happy holidays :)
Ben highway be 4
It's a pretty good place to get parts - real helpful - no attitude and real fair prices - hope all is well w/ you.
Nice work .
Thanks - have a good weekend.