What a great teaching video! I’ve saved this one, for future reference. Many of us share your joy of touching timber. I also love the smell of timber yards/shops, we’re all a little mad and that’s ok 😂
Beautiful, beautiful restoration. Really brought the pine to life and gave it a depth of character and interest. Perfect presentation, perfect result. I have recently used your hard oil wax to restore a Victorian washstand even using it off script to bring the black granite top back to life with a couple of coats, wonderful product. I don’t usually comment nor watch restoration videos as too much like a busman’s holiday but this one gave so much joy. Thank you x
Thank you. You're very kind. 😌 I think I'm going to invest in a decent microphone. The roof in this part of the building challenged my editing. 😀 Thanks for watching and using our hard wax oil. Kind regards Simon
@@GilboysRestoration Dear Simon, the pleasure is all mine (and many others no doubt). No need to invest in a new mic though, as your passion, artistry, craftsmanship and smile says it all and watching you gives all the instruction needed. Many thanks for all the vids and for sharing your knowledge. Best wishes xx
Swirl marks are why I don't use an orbital sander - as handy and fast as they are - the swirls create more work. I use a standard "vibration" style sander - and work my way up to fine grit paper.. and end with hand sanding. I love the little hills & valleys in old wood and work to retain those. I absolutely love Simon's appreciation & enthusiasm for beautiful wood... I thought I was the only one who gets so much joy out of the feel of gorgeous wood. :) I have a 19th c pine table I've been putting off restoring - and this is the method I plan to use on the top - this video is much appreciated! The slow, clear details are so helpful. The table is stunning!
I absolutely enjoy watching your videos I’ve learned so much. I’m happy to have found your channel after searching tutorials on how to restore my antique dining room table. Continued success and Blessings 🙏🏼😊💕
This was so helpful thank you! I noticed your table’s legs have been painted. Ours haven’t, would you suggest following the same method with the legs and sides?
Great video. Thank you so much. So many questions. A starter would be what is the best 'off the shelf' stripper? You mentioned you can use a chemical stripper, which is not easy to get hold unless maybe a business? There are tons of products out there but some of course are better than others. Do you possibly have a recommendation please? Thanks you
Didn't realise you could use your polish in between coats of the oil , how dos that work? Have used your Wax oil on pine, oak and an elm and beech chair - all worked a treat and much more pleasant to use for me than Danish or Finishing oil (noticeable lack of oily / chemical smell)
Thank you ☺️ The hard wax oil will bond with the beeswax in our range of polishes, and with the HWO underneath. **Only with our polishes and waxes** I'm not saying this for sales, it's much more on a professional level: You have no idea what is actually in the contents of other wax polishes. Because of this you could easily have a reaction when applying it where it doesn't bond to the surface. kind regards Simon
Great video! I found my pine table is still very much sensitive to scratches. It's stained/dyed with a jacobbean colour and even after two coats of hard wax oil, kids are scratching it and removing the colour with their nails (I know....). Was putting this down to the fact it's pine/soft wood so couldn't solve this. Do you have a recommendation? Been thinking of using polyurethane lately....
Hello! I’ve been given a mid Century dining table with a teak veneer. It looks ‘well used’ and dull and I’d love to bring it back to life. Is there anything you’d recommend?
Hi Foxymusic. Our rose gold polish works very well on Mid Century Teak. Please do email me directly with an image and I'll help with any further advice. Kind regards Simon.
Thank you. It very much depends if the veneer has lifted off the surface or its being pushed. If the bubbles are hollow then they can be glued back down. If there are solid, ie. being pushed up because of swollen particle board, then there is very little that can be done. kind regards Simon
We would like more teaching videos. You're among the very few on TH-cam, who post a very serious content . Many thanks.
Thank you. You are very kind ☺
I made it about three weeks ago. On woodprix I learned a lot about it. Check it mates.
What a great teaching video! I’ve saved this one, for future reference. Many of us share your joy of touching timber. I also love the smell of timber yards/shops, we’re all a little mad and that’s ok 😂
Same here
Thank you. It helps to be a little mad. 😁
Don't worry if you're not mad, we'll train you. 😂
I love your passion for your work and how environmentally conscious you are. Such a great business and you seem like such a lovely person X
Thank you so much for watching and your lovely comments. ☺️
Simon
It is amazing how sensitive your hands are to feeling even the smallest of dust or grains. Even if you have old work hardened hands.
Thank you. ☺️
Great video Simon loved it, keep them comin please !!!.
What a great channel. Love your work
Thank you. Much appreciated 🙂
❤ I do love touching the wood so much too. It's so nice to see that you love what you're doing. Thanks!
Beautiful, beautiful restoration. Really brought the pine to life and gave it a depth of character and interest. Perfect presentation, perfect result. I have recently used your hard oil wax to restore a Victorian washstand even using it off script to bring the black granite top back to life with a couple of coats, wonderful product. I don’t usually comment nor watch restoration videos as too much like a busman’s holiday but this one gave so much joy. Thank you x
Thank you. You're very kind. 😌
I think I'm going to invest in a decent microphone.
The roof in this part of the building challenged my editing. 😀
Thanks for watching and using our hard wax oil.
Kind regards
Simon
@@GilboysRestoration
Dear Simon, the pleasure is all mine (and many others no doubt). No need to invest in a new mic though, as your passion, artistry, craftsmanship and smile says it all and watching you gives all the instruction needed. Many thanks for all the vids and for sharing your knowledge. Best wishes xx
Totally agree
Swirl marks are why I don't use an orbital sander - as handy and fast as they are - the swirls create more work. I use a standard "vibration" style sander - and work my way up to fine grit paper.. and end with hand sanding. I love the little hills & valleys in old wood and work to retain those. I absolutely love Simon's appreciation & enthusiasm for beautiful wood... I thought I was the only one who gets so much joy out of the feel of gorgeous wood. :) I have a 19th c pine table I've been putting off restoring - and this is the method I plan to use on the top - this video is much appreciated! The slow, clear details are so helpful. The table is stunning!
Great video
I absolutely enjoy watching your videos I’ve learned so much. I’m happy to have found your channel after searching tutorials on how to restore my antique dining room table. Continued success and Blessings 🙏🏼😊💕
Beautiful work!😊
This was so helpful thank you! I noticed your table’s legs have been painted. Ours haven’t, would you suggest following the same method with the legs and sides?
Great video. Thank you so much. So many questions. A starter would be what is the best 'off the shelf' stripper? You mentioned you can use a chemical stripper, which is not easy to get hold unless maybe a business? There are tons of products out there but some of course are better than others. Do you possibly have a recommendation please? Thanks you
Didn't realise you could use your polish in between coats of the oil , how dos that work? Have used your Wax oil on pine, oak and an elm and beech chair - all worked a treat and much more pleasant to use for me than Danish or Finishing oil (noticeable lack of oily / chemical smell)
Thank you ☺️
The hard wax oil will bond with the beeswax in our range of polishes, and with the HWO underneath.
**Only with our polishes and waxes**
I'm not saying this for sales, it's much more on a professional level:
You have no idea what is actually in the contents of other wax polishes. Because of this you could easily have a reaction when applying it where it doesn't bond to the surface.
kind regards
Simon
Thank you@@GilboysRestoration
Can the liquid wax be used on shellac finishes? Like something with a French polish to provide better protection?
Love your videos by the way.
I would like to know which (brand, type) paint stripper you use ....
HI we used Paramose in this video. But as I said in the video, it's normally only available to the trade. 🙂
Thanks for watching.
What a lovely result!
Thank you.
The table has just been sold to a lovely farming couple. 🙂
Thank you for this wonderful video. Where can we buy your products in the U.S.?
Great video! I found my pine table is still very much sensitive to scratches. It's stained/dyed with a jacobbean colour and even after two coats of hard wax oil, kids are scratching it and removing the colour with their nails (I know....). Was putting this down to the fact it's pine/soft wood so couldn't solve this. Do you have a recommendation? Been thinking of using polyurethane lately....
Hello, what is the name of the liquid wood stripper that you use in this video?
Hello! I’ve been given a mid Century dining table with a teak veneer. It looks ‘well used’ and dull and I’d love to bring it back to life. Is there anything you’d recommend?
Hi Foxymusic.
Our rose gold polish works very well on Mid Century Teak. Please do email me directly with an image and I'll help with any further advice.
Kind regards
Simon.
Why aren't subtitles enabled?
Apologies. I'll enable them when I get into work tomorrow morning. (#can't see where to do it on my phone.)
@@GilboysRestoration Thank you! 😊
what to do if veneer is bubbly? btw your wax products are far superior to others (rubio, odies, etc)
Thank you.
It very much depends if the veneer has lifted off the surface or its being pushed.
If the bubbles are hollow then they can be glued back down.
If there are solid, ie. being pushed up because of swollen particle board, then there is very little that can be done.
kind regards
Simon