The thing that sets your videos apart is that you not only explain everything so clearly but you also talk about the tools needed and how to use them properly. Thanks again Peter.
This whole series is outstanding. I was just gifted a project CB750F and your videos are going to be the absolute key to me being able to sort all these bins of parts I was given. Thanks so much for taking the time to document and share your protect with us!
Nice! Honda applied sealant by placing the case bottom onto a roller applicator so all surfaces at the case join level got a (very thin) coating. This is a zero fit seal so basically all sealant gets squeezed out... go super light with the Hondabond. A bit extra where case meets oil seal.
When i was doing Diesel work we had a big thing with a weight mounted on the wall where we would calibrate our torque wrenches.As they were used constantly every day it paid to get them checked As often as possible .Especially when Doing stuff which has such low torque requirements. I went looking for plastigage the other day and one little place run by a bloke in his 80's was the only shop that had it .Are we dinosaurs ?
This series has been great in my 71 cb750 project. Quick question, with the con rod bolts are you filing the head to make them fit? I can't get mine to seat down all the way. They stop about 3mm short. Seems they may be hanging up in the bolt hole not at the head of the bolt. Thanks again.
you should be measuring journals with a micrometer or reading the crankshaft markings to determine the appropriate half shells for each journal. different colors correspond to different sizes. purchasing all black bearings because some parts seller said to makes absolutely no sense.
Take a toaster oven next time you have a batch of parts electroplated. Have them bake the parts at 350˚F (177˚C) for two hours immediately after finishing the parts. This will bake out the hydrogen and avoid the risk of hydrogen embrittlement.
Brilliant as always Peter. I cannot wait to see the engine whole again. Do you download online manuals for the specs and assembly instructions, or do you rely on your experience?
Hi Peter I love your videos You said one of the reasons you were not getting the bolts platted was because they would be weaker. Can I ask why this is the case? Thanks
Hi, There's a risk of hydrogen embrittlement... I took a container load of bits and pieces to the plater today and requested heating afterward to alleviate stress. They do that when requested. Cheers
i have a question for you Peter Anderson regarding a 302 rollercam engine with a blower .... basically i need to find a good set of head gaskits and inlet gaskits what would you recommend its just a 10psi build .....
Hey there just wanting to ask a question even tho it’s not related to this video. But I have a 1983 351w and it’s been bored .30 over and I’ve gotten the proper rings and I’ve fitted them And The most I can fit is a 24thow feller gauge in the gap. Is that within speck ? Thanks.
I dont think you have to worry about the length of the torque wrench extension affecting the "amount" of torque given to the screw in any way. I dont know how to explain this in english properly: Torque is a linear force multiplied with a radius. Because a longer extension doesn't changes any of both factors, the resulting rotational force is the same. please correct me if I'm wrong.
You are right, but I don' t think, that the low torque numbers apllied to bolts and nuts in motorbike an car engines affect some serious twist in a 1/2" extension, for example. Factory torque specs also tend to be higher, than they barely need to be, for safty reasons (unaccurate torque wrenches, etc.) Of course, there will be twist, if you torque a central crank bolt to the prescriptet 180 Nm (for example) with a 1/4" extension. Can we agree to just keep extensions as short and as beefy, as possible?
Thanks Stephen it's so kind of you, I know I have too many projects which worries me a little from the Patreon point of view, but will get there. Cheers and thanks again. Peter
Kinchrome and Teng are about the same, in Aus the name 'Kincrome' was a name the company chose to sound familiar/similar to us Aussies favourite and best known locally produced 'Sidchrome' ('Built to last a lifetime') brand. Bursons auto parts love to flog kincrome and so to Auto-barn, Ag equipment places in my area love to flog Teng. Both brands are quite a few rungs on the ladder lower than the top brands but are priced accordingly.
extra info: Kincrome is Australian (no not made here), (no can't spell chrome) haha and Teng is Swedish. I should ad that when I mentioned locally produced I really meant up to 1996...
Thoroughly enjoyable project Peter, You couldn't have bought a better bike to start with. No worries about being 'anal' with the details! Best regards, J.
I'm refurbishing some bikes, I would always buy new bolts on eBay, metal deteriates with age......I buy bearings from a large bearing supplier...I'm in the UK. I avoid Honda unless no choice....
The issue I have is figuring out what grade to buy... there aren't the usual markings on the OEM ones. I assume grade 5 would do the trick but just not sure.
Peter Anderson 301 stainless or 316 if you are corrosion paranoid. Bayswater bolts should sort you out, alternatively there are kits on eBay. What I've used on my CB350 rebuild.
The thing that sets your videos apart is that you not only explain everything so clearly but you also talk about the tools needed and how to use them properly. Thanks again Peter.
This whole series is outstanding. I was just gifted a project CB750F and your videos are going to be the absolute key to me being able to sort all these bins of parts I was given.
Thanks so much for taking the time to document and share your protect with us!
Nice! Honda applied sealant by placing the case bottom onto a roller applicator so all surfaces at the case join level got a (very thin) coating. This is a zero fit seal so basically all sealant gets squeezed out... go super light with the Hondabond. A bit extra where case meets oil seal.
Thanks for that, I never thought of it... makes perfect sense for a nice uniform coverage. Cheers
Peter you are the man with the golden wrench
Thanks Tom, never thought of myself like that, but very kind of you to say. Cheers
Man you can't ask for better fits. Awesome video!
Thanks mate, glad you liked it. Cheers
Always entertaining and informative. This is how auto mechanical videos should be done. Including the occasional comic relief.
Nice job. I do enjoy watching engines being rebuilt by people that are fussy and meticulous. It will be a very very nice bike when completed
Thanks mate, I like watching your stuff too... the cinema projectors were really interesting. Cheers
Another good rebuild video. Thanks for taking the time to film, edit and upload it.
My pleasure, glad you enjoyed it. Cheers
Excellent video. I have really enjoyed this series. Thank you for taking the time to film it.
Hi Peter good vids as always, ATB Wayne, UK.
Thanks Wayne.
Xlnt videos, I am considering restoring either an early Honda 750 or an early 80’s Suzuki Gs 750 or 1100.
Beautiful work!
Thanks Johnny
Welcome Peter.
Good progress!
Thanks
When i was doing Diesel work we had a big thing with a weight mounted on the wall where we would calibrate our torque wrenches.As they were used constantly every day it paid to get them checked As often as possible .Especially when Doing stuff which has such low torque requirements. I went looking for plastigage the other day and one little place run by a bloke in his 80's was the only shop that had it .Are we dinosaurs ?
This series has been great in my 71 cb750 project. Quick question, with the con rod bolts are you filing the head to make them fit? I can't get mine to seat down all the way. They stop about 3mm short. Seems they may be hanging up in the bolt hole not at the head of the bolt. Thanks again.
Excellent video yet again! Thank you sir. Do you think that the sealant between the cases will loosen up your clearances a very small amount?
If they do, it would be barely detectable, the case halves are designed to butt together. Cheers
you should be measuring journals with a micrometer or reading the crankshaft markings to determine the appropriate half shells for each journal. different colors correspond to different sizes. purchasing all black bearings because some parts seller said to makes absolutely no sense.
Take a toaster oven next time you have a batch of parts electroplated. Have them bake the parts at 350˚F (177˚C) for two hours immediately after finishing the parts. This will bake out the hydrogen and avoid the risk of hydrogen embrittlement.
Thanks, I never knew the temperatures necessary. Cheers
Hi Peter, loving your videos. What brand of torque wrench are you using. Cheers
Brilliant as always Peter. I cannot wait to see the engine whole again. Do you download online manuals for the specs and assembly instructions, or do you rely on your experience?
Hi Peter
I love your videos
You said one of the reasons you were not getting the bolts platted was because they would be weaker.
Can I ask why this is the case?
Thanks
Hi, There's a risk of hydrogen embrittlement... I took a container load of bits and pieces to the plater today and requested heating afterward to alleviate stress. They do that when requested. Cheers
thank you for your answer
i have a question for you Peter Anderson regarding a 302 rollercam engine with a blower .... basically i need to find a good set of head gaskits and inlet gaskits what would you recommend its just a 10psi build .....
Hello Peter, Are you going to finish the Fairmont?
Of course... I will resume in the Spring
Great to hear
just wondering where you bought the bearings for the primary crankshaft? I cant seem to find them anywhere.
Hey there just wanting to ask a question even tho it’s not related to this video. But I have a 1983 351w and it’s been bored .30 over and I’ve gotten the proper rings and I’ve fitted them And The most I can fit is a 24thow feller gauge in the gap. Is that within speck ? Thanks.
enjoying these :)
Create video Pete, which supplier did you use for the bearings?
Hi, A bloke called Chris in WA... he sells under the eBay name of 750nut... I called him direct and placed an order. Cheers
I dont think you have to worry about the length of the torque wrench extension affecting the "amount" of torque given to the screw in any way.
I dont know how to explain this in english properly:
Torque is a linear force multiplied with a radius. Because a longer extension doesn't changes any of both factors, the resulting rotational force is the same.
please correct me if I'm wrong.
CodewortSchinken The longer the extension, the more twist you get in the extension, so the torque applied is lower.
You are right, but I don' t think, that the low torque numbers apllied to bolts and nuts in motorbike an car engines affect some serious twist in a 1/2" extension, for example.
Factory torque specs also tend to be higher, than they barely need to be, for safty reasons (unaccurate torque wrenches, etc.)
Of course, there will be twist, if you torque a central crank bolt to the prescriptet 180 Nm (for example) with a 1/4" extension.
Can we agree to just keep extensions as short and as beefy, as possible?
I just increased my Patreon for you. Been meaning to do it for a while now.Keep on doing what you do. :-)
Thanks Stephen it's so kind of you, I know I have too many projects which worries me a little from the Patreon point of view, but will get there. Cheers and thanks again. Peter
Can someone explain the plastic feeler gauge part ?
If you had to put torque wrenches on a "quality scale" I would wanted where Teng Torque wrenches would lay compared to kincrome?
Not sure on that one. Cheers
Kinchrome and Teng are about the same, in Aus the name 'Kincrome' was a name the company chose to sound familiar/similar to us Aussies favourite and best known locally produced 'Sidchrome' ('Built to last a lifetime') brand. Bursons auto parts love to flog kincrome and so to Auto-barn, Ag equipment places in my area love to flog Teng. Both brands are quite a few rungs on the ladder lower than the top brands but are priced accordingly.
extra info: Kincrome is Australian (no not made here), (no can't spell chrome) haha and Teng is Swedish.
I should ad that when I mentioned locally produced I really meant up to 1996...
Thoroughly enjoyable project Peter, You couldn't have bought a better bike to start with.
No worries about being 'anal' with the details!
Best regards, J.
I'm refurbishing some bikes, I would always buy new bolts on eBay, metal deteriates with age......I buy bearings from a large bearing supplier...I'm in the UK. I avoid Honda unless no choice....
The issue I have is figuring out what grade to buy... there aren't the usual markings on the OEM ones. I assume grade 5 would do the trick but just not sure.
Peter Anderson 301 stainless or 316 if you are corrosion paranoid. Bayswater bolts should sort you out, alternatively there are kits on eBay. What I've used on my CB350 rebuild.