Great progress this time. We had the Same Kitkat slogan in the UK. You and Jason have motivated me into digging out my CB400n superdream. It's been left for 5 years so in a bad way but I dont have a workshop or garage so progress is slow. I have to drag my tools in and out and make sure the bike packed out of the way again every time. The Calipers are off and I'm going to rebuild them and new brake lines are going to be ordered but I nee to repair the centre stand but cant get the damn thing off :-(
Hi Peter, probably nothing you haven't heard before but... Regarding the surface rust on the underside of the guards, I've had great success with rusted instruments cleaning them with 'Evaporust'. I've placed clocks into it and it doesn't harm any of the different metals or rubber mounts. I suspect it won't harm any existing chrome either. The only cons are that it doesn't work as fast as they claim it does and that it's quite pricey. The pros are that it's non acidic and doesn't harm anything other than the rust and is safe to touch, non-toxic and reusable. Supercheap carries it while Repco has the similar 'Metal rescue' which is slightly cheaper.
Hey Peter nice work explaining your progress as I've been following you during my build...I have a question about timing marks. when I align the "T" on the advance, my cam marks are slightly off. If I move it a tooth on the top sprocket I'm afraid it will be further off. I'm saying slightly but I noted your illustration was similar to mine, indicating slight stretch on the chain? My question is; what is the allowance, or does it have to be exact?
Oh, also, for the engine install, Ive found it mush easier to jig the engine up sideways and lifting the frame onto the engine on the floor, that way you limit the scuffing and back damage :)
Hi Peter, please repeat what you are mumbling in the beginning of the video. You are removing the dust from the frame and make a remark about the powdercoating? A mistake? Rather painted it? Thanks
hey pete, do you realize that a lubricated nut, against a dry nut has a different torque setting. the lubricated nut/bolt requires a higher torque setting. but manufactures don't state this.
Can you go over the specs of the hardware bolts and nuts (m8-1.25 and others) because I can’t find any info and I don’t want to spend a lot of money on oem hardware, also can you tell me how many of each bolt, nut and washers there are? If not it’s no problem. Thanks
Just going back through the XW build now. Have you got a reaction of your daughter saying how it is now? She said it was a pile of junk when you first got it.
Peter , I have a Austin A40 1200 1950, the engine has never been rebuilt and is low miles but the car has sat since 1993. Your saying this engine should be rebuilt ? runs well , bought the car off an old English gentleman ,this year in May........so whats your call on this
It's a tough one... I had some healthy looking bearings in a BMC engine I went through, then it failed after a couple of hundred miles, crank journals were toast. I think the white metal coating on the bearings was compromised, then lifted and chewed the crank journals up. I put it down to bad luck and did another one some time later... all looked great and clearanced well, then the same thing happened, so put it down to adhesive wear (when tiny bearing particles bond to the crank over time and slowly wreak havoc on engine running). I tested oil pressure and compression with the engines on my test stand and all was well and good at the time... failure came later. I'm most happy to be corrected on this, but I'm very thorough and take engine reconditioning most seriously. Since then I replace all rings and bearings in all engines that have sat for decades. B series engine parts are very cheap as well. Having stated all this, your A40 engine may be fine, so I don't know how to advise on that. Cheers
NO! dont wire wheel it!, Use a bit of coke-cola and tin foil to rub it off! ( check elin yakovs's channel his motorcycle video of recent covers using coke on chrome, it works WAY better than you'd think! )
It bothers me that you spent some time getting the 8 O-rings for the return oil just right and then glossed over the High Pressure oil feed seals (the two studs at rear nearest the cam chain). These are the important ones to seal. It did not even look flush with the deck when you dropped the viton seals there. If these are not sealed to high pressure, you'll have a leak there and insufficient oil pressure to the top end.
Fantastic attention to detail Peter 👍
The complicated make to look easy, thanks to your teaching style.
Thanks again. Cheers
Great Sunday arvo viewing Peter. Looking forward to hearing it run.
Ditto, thanks for the comments. Cheers
this man is a saint
Beautiful work Peter. Makes me want to go out and buy a 750. Thanks so much for your efforts to film this!
I had to go back and listen to the first date comment again, caught me off guard, so funny!
Awesome trick with the screwdriver I have not seen that done before. Be sure I will use that when I do my next SOHC motor. Cheers!
Great progress this time. We had the Same Kitkat slogan in the UK. You and Jason have motivated me into digging out my CB400n superdream. It's been left for 5 years so in a bad way but I dont have a workshop or garage so progress is slow. I have to drag my tools in and out and make sure the bike packed out of the way again every time.
The Calipers are off and I'm going to rebuild them and new brake lines are going to be ordered but I nee to repair the centre stand but cant get the damn thing off :-(
Cam chain tensioner always seizes. Always. But the bore is round. Simply twist it back and forth and it will loosen.
Agreed, and if necessary it seems that a little heat applied to the aluminum housing would almost certainly free up the tensioner.
Hi Peter, probably nothing you haven't heard before but...
Regarding the surface rust on the underside of the guards, I've had great success with rusted instruments cleaning them with 'Evaporust'.
I've placed clocks into it and it doesn't harm any of the different metals or rubber mounts.
I suspect it won't harm any existing chrome either. The only cons are that it doesn't work as fast as they claim it does and that it's quite pricey.
The pros are that it's non acidic and doesn't harm anything other than the rust and is safe to touch, non-toxic and reusable.
Supercheap carries it while Repco has the similar 'Metal rescue' which is slightly cheaper.
Hey Peter nice work explaining your progress as I've been following you during my build...I have a question about timing marks. when I align the "T" on the advance, my cam marks are slightly off. If I move it a tooth on the top sprocket I'm afraid it will be further off. I'm saying slightly but I noted your illustration was similar to mine, indicating slight stretch on the chain? My question is; what is the allowance, or does it have to be exact?
How did you find the torque ratings for everything?
Hi Alex, I jumped online and downloaded the manual. Occasionally I do a Google search if I can't find what I'm after, cheers.
I wonder if a strip of tape over the cam lobes and bearing faces might help prevent any marking when feeding the cam through the timing chain...
i cant wait to hear this thing fire up
Oh, also, for the engine install, Ive found it mush easier to jig the engine up sideways and lifting the frame onto the engine on the floor, that way you limit the scuffing and back damage :)
Hi Peter, please repeat what you are mumbling in the beginning of the video. You are removing the dust from the frame and make a remark about the powdercoating? A mistake? Rather painted it?
Thanks
hey pete, do you realize that a lubricated nut, against a dry nut has a different torque setting. the lubricated nut/bolt requires a higher torque setting. but manufactures don't state this.
Can you go over the specs of the hardware bolts and nuts (m8-1.25 and others) because I can’t find any info and I don’t want to spend a lot of money on oem hardware, also can you tell me how many of each bolt, nut and washers there are? If not it’s no problem. Thanks
Btw I’m putting this 750 on a gocart frame and I’m kind of on a budget since I spent all of my money restoring my cr80 lol
Just going back through the XW build now. Have you got a reaction of your daughter saying how it is now? She said it was a pile of junk when you first got it.
Yes mate, she's still no fan haha. Cheers
Peter , I have a Austin A40 1200 1950, the engine has never been rebuilt and is low miles but the car has sat since 1993. Your saying this engine should be rebuilt ? runs well , bought the car off an old English gentleman ,this year in May........so whats your call on this
It's a tough one... I had some healthy looking bearings in a BMC engine I went through, then it failed after a couple of hundred miles, crank journals were toast. I think the white metal coating on the bearings was compromised, then lifted and chewed the crank journals up. I put it down to bad luck and did another one some time later... all looked great and clearanced well, then the same thing happened, so put it down to adhesive wear (when tiny bearing particles bond to the crank over time and slowly wreak havoc on engine running). I tested oil pressure and compression with the engines on my test stand and all was well and good at the time... failure came later. I'm most happy to be corrected on this, but I'm very thorough and take engine reconditioning most seriously. Since then I replace all rings and bearings in all engines that have sat for decades. B series engine parts are very cheap as well. Having stated all this, your A40 engine may be fine, so I don't know how to advise on that. Cheers
try mouse milk to unsieze your part, used extensively in the airline industry
Has some nasty stuff in it though doesn't it?
Peter Anderson no idea, just know it works
Stick this mofo on! HAHAHA. Great video Peter
NO! dont wire wheel it!, Use a bit of coke-cola and tin foil to rub it off! ( check elin yakovs's channel his motorcycle video of recent covers using coke on chrome, it works WAY better than you'd think! )
It bothers me that you spent some time getting the 8 O-rings for the return oil just right and then glossed over the High Pressure oil feed seals (the two studs at rear nearest the cam chain). These are the important ones to seal. It did not even look flush with the deck when you dropped the viton seals there. If these are not sealed to high pressure, you'll have a leak there and insufficient oil pressure to the top end.
Very hard to understand with his accent!!
Sorry you had issues following my ramblings mate... my accent is pretty moderate compared to many Aussies, cheers.