Solid video! I only wish it also had a rudimentary test for VBUS & GND resistance too - this is an area of USB-C cable design that has been routinely abused by cheap cable vendors and can put harsh limits on functional cable lengths for USB2 data.
This is my first cable tester that's been very useful for the year I've had it so far. It's basic but great with all the connectors and breakout of each cable pin with a test point, useful for other testing (connected to just the right half there's no interference with signals). Sure, this doesn't check correct wiring (not sure I've ever encountered incorrect wiring), but it's helped me determine what features cables have, AND detect intermittent connections by wiggling things while connected and watching for flickering lights. This is very helpful when dealing with USB adapters and connector changers, especially USB-A 3 to USB-C, where flipping the connector over will mess up USB 3.0 data speeds. This tester lets you be sure you've got it the right way.
D+/D- only connects to one pinrow, because there is only one pair of data on the USB-A connector end. (Can't find a comment after 6 months that answers this.) Also instead of a cable tie for identification, I write the cable length in color on the ends, in UniPosca oil-based fine-tip pen ink. Red for power only, Blue for shielded full USB-3 data, Green for other with shielding, or White,Yellow,etc. for half-capable levels in between, There is a total of 10 different combinations I have found. Makes fast identification when grabbing the right one.
I have one of those testers. The indicator lights and descriptions could be better. I didn't notice till now the random copy of the copy of the copy has a fun message, "Acction: Don't Connect To Device!!!!!" I have also left the battery switch on for months now, not remembering to turn it off, and it still works.
I got the same tester a while back and it's great to finally find and label the cables for what they are. I just wish they printed each cable type light reference on the back instead so it's easier to decipher between thunderbolt, lightning, and USB3.2 etc. Mine didn't have a manual, so I had to track them down and make my own reference chart. Anymore, if I buy a USB3 data cable, I just make sure its USB-IF certified.
I dont understand why the hell no one (literally no one ever) provides the god damn true technical specs of these usb cables. Even worse, why is it allowed to skip most of the wires from a god damn cable, and still allowed to call it a usb cable.. I would blame those idiots in the USB-IF that they screwed up this entire Type-C more than anybody else in the IT ever screwed up.
Its on all the time... dunno the draw, but all the current car chargers are like that unfortunately. Not really a big deal if you drive regularly, but coming back from deployment to find your car dead because the phone charger was lit up is a problem.
One of the biggest dilemmas that I had when moving. What are all these cables and what can I get rid of and what should I keep. I got both devices and am going to start going through my cables and hopefully thinning them out. It does not solve one of my problems. A well made USB C cable that is 10+ feet needs to have a higher than normal guage wire so that you do not lose current going over 10 feet that you would going over 3 feet. This has caused me issues with tablets that I like to rapid charge but won't over a 10 foot cable. Anyway, for the car device, wonder how this would work on the car charge port built into a solar generator? That might be a good experiment.
There are more USB questions. With this you know what connections it makes. But questions remain: what is the resistance of the power, and how clean are the data lines? How much V and A can the power do, and is there an e-marker chip inside?
Love that cable tester. I have a bunch. some bad. I have that tester in my cart. and that car charger PD 45 watt . I have bigger ones 65W and 100 watt. NY got hit with heat wave. past 3 days so far . 92/98/93 . and muggy. some power grid trouble. fixing gas generators and electric lawn mowers and busy changing bad outlets that run AC units. if 20 amp circuit I put in 20 amp good commercial rated outlet. they hold up. most newer homes have #12 wires. better for AC . waiting to get paid so i can pay bills and get the cable tester. Heat slowing people down. even me. hard to fix stuff in the shop being so muggy ! I do have AC running on costumers generator. had to load test . 73's
With USB C - While using USB-C, try twisting your cable around. I have a cable that everything is lit both sides except D+- on one side, but when I twist the cable, it flips D+- from A to B
The provision for being able to use both the "A" and "B" side of the USB2 D+/D- positions is available for USB-C products which have a "captive cable" (a cable that has one USB-C connector and is either permanently attached or has a non-USB connector on the opposite end). In the past, these signal positions have been used for vendor-specific functions which utilized e.g. I2C/TWI or UART to accomplish. Note that the standard USB-C cables do not include 2 independent USB2 differential pairs which would connect at both of those A/B positions for USB2, so a purpose-built captive cable is necessary. The common practice in the majority of products is for the USB2 A/B positions to be shorted together on the PCB.
Rather than zip ties, I suggest it would be better to use a p-touch to label them with info like length, speed capability and whether data and/or power are connected. It’s helpful when digging through a pile of cables to find the one you need.
I'm not 100% sure either - I think its "operating as expected", but I'd have to read the spec to be sure. As long as it passes data, I'm happy so far. I haven't found a use case where it was an issue yet.
So when people say, "They are using this to get rid of cables...", what are you looking for (with this tester) to determine that? I can understand wanting some power-only cables (ie. for a public charging location, so there's no risk of accessing your data). But are there times you want data-only cables, and not power? It seemed most tests were of all the different combinations of connectors. I can see that useful as a reference. But if say 5 USB A to micro-USB cables were tested, would we see lots of different results? What would determine if you keep, or through away the cable? I do agree with some posters that said qualitative testing would be useful. That is, even if they show power and data cables, how much power can it handle? How fast a speed can it transfer? I saw mention that a separate tester was available for that (I'll need to see if there's a video for it).
its a personal choice - In my case I had amassed so many "spare" cables that I really needed to narrow them all down and this was a really fast/easy way to do that. I threw out all the power only cables except for 1... and since then the collection has started growing again. I actually found that I needed some short cables that I never had in my collection as well. If you had a need to know about the extra features of a particular cable, this looks like the right tool for that job as well.
Is there an explanation of what the individual PINs do, or a handy chart how to tell apart a PD cable from slow data from fast data? I have this device and am not smart enough to use it.
My application for this device is to prove that the project isn't working because I have the wrong cable. I have found that I learn best if I have a project to explore/create - and this tool would be a part of that bigger learning process. Right now I'm learning that not all PD sources provide the right PD voltages for all projects. So that's the next tool I need. I do a lot of research when the project is fun.
Idk if I skimmed over it or adhd'ed past it but did you somehow test to see if A-to-A is possible for 3.0? Do you need to just use an A-to-C adapter or something?
@@Dazreiello-old I didn't demo that, but If you trust your adapter, then using it is a valid test. If you don't, you won't know if it's the cable or the adapter at fault
I have a USB A to C cable that I got from Adafruit that shows as having symmetrical GND and VBUS connections and no D+/D-. I can use this cord to connect my laptop and a keyboard and use the keyboard to type on the laptop with no loss of functionality - are the D+/D- pins not required for data transfer over this cable, or am I misunderstanding something about the specification?
You have the same understanding I do... maybe there is some other path for signals to go on, but now we'd need to read the USB and the HID specs to get further info. - head scratcher for sure.
You would need the appropriate "9v PD trigger cable" to make it work. The "device" requests the right power when plugged in. If your device is already USB-C, the plug it in. If not, Amazon will have the cable.
You would need the appropriate "9v PD trigger cable" to make it work. The "device" requests the right power when plugged in. If your device is already USB-C, the plug it in. If not, Amazon will have the cable.
Man, I love you but sometimes I hate you. Just last night I said "I need to stop watching TH-cam and buying so much cr@ap", next day BOOM, TH-cam send me a Subscriber notification just for the exact device I was needing so bad the other day while running through a ton of USB cables that were giving me issues. My wallet hates you so bad bro. Hahaha, thank you, buying one right away and disappearing from internet so I dont go broke...Actually, will be cool a tester that test the speed of the cable too! dang it!
So, why in H E double toothpicks are there so many various "Standard" cables types? It's like RS232 All over again. 25 pin D, 9 pin D, Null modem... Ugh.. de N9RZV
Does it tell you whether the cable can support "fast charging" and at what power level? I have some cables that may be broken and have stopped fast charging my phone, but want to figure out if it's the cable or the power adapter.
That's a good question! I don't think the cable cares unless you have a special PD Trigger cable for an odd purpose. Asong as the wires aren't broken inside, the cable shouldn't have any brains to exert change on either end. So I'd say "yes" it can detect that situation.
Can this board test apple oem USB-C -> Ligning cable with CC pin (PowerDelivery detection pin) and these god damn (maybe xiaomi) 9000watt USBA -> USBC with usb3.0 Ground pin which is connected to USBC CC pin to simulate 9000wat powerdelivery protocol via USBA cable?
Schroedinger's USB cable: it is simultaneously right side up and upside down until you try to plug it in, at which point the probability function collapses into the opposite of how you are trying
I had to troubleshoot an old USB A/B cable yesterday. It carries data for 40 out of every 50 seconds then just drops packets until the host resets the bus after about 10 seconds. IDFK, man. That $60 tester a commenter mentioned might tell me but it's circular-filed for good measure.
Keep all the cables. Eventually, they all break and then you need the others for a backup. At some point you have no cables left. Avid that point by keeping all cables.
6:09 it's pretty fast because there is no logic in it xD it uses wires inside cable you are testing to compleate circuit from battery to led light . I mean it's very usefull just ... lol :D
just got done with this because I was hoping you would hit on one aspect of cables that many seem to not notice. and you kinda did. While it wasnt your goal in any way. data cables have a correct way and a not correct way. there is an up and down on them. besides that, my main point for comment is that with all the dead broken conectores cables, its time to spend the few dollars and order the box of connectors from the Jungle market, and start re-connectorizing all those cables. Some you will find are easy and worth it, others not so much. The true USB-C cables with the 20 wires in it, toss those babies, you will never resolder them correctly.
@@temporarilyoffline I do agree. Not all repairs are worth it. Be selective. I keep the repair kits for the field because out in the desert, next day delivery doesnt exist, and so repairs are the only way to keep on the air sometimes, until the delivery guy from the Jungle market can drop the order of next cables to be destroyed by the kids and environment!
With C cables, you have to plug it in and then flip it and plug it in again. Then you can see better how the connections are inside the cable. The data lines or others may flip one to the other side of the tester.
Solid video! I only wish it also had a rudimentary test for VBUS & GND resistance too - this is an area of USB-C cable design that has been routinely abused by cheap cable vendors and can put harsh limits on functional cable lengths for USB2 data.
You are correct!
The BitTradeOne AUDUSBCIM cable checker 2 will measure cable impedance . It's more expensive though, around $60 vs less than $20 for the Treedix.
@@the_rzh awesome, thanks for the tip.
Went and bought both before video was halfway through, so ... Big Thank you for finding these, the USB Tester is much, much needed ...
Glad I could help
TREEDIX! Now there is a name I never thought I would be saying out loud! This is an AWESOME device. I gotta get one.
I really wanted to say it more often in the video. What a crazy name.
😂
This is my first cable tester that's been very useful for the year I've had it so far. It's basic but great with all the connectors and breakout of each cable pin with a test point, useful for other testing (connected to just the right half there's no interference with signals). Sure, this doesn't check correct wiring (not sure I've ever encountered incorrect wiring), but it's helped me determine what features cables have, AND detect intermittent connections by wiggling things while connected and watching for flickering lights.
This is very helpful when dealing with USB adapters and connector changers, especially USB-A 3 to USB-C, where flipping the connector over will mess up USB 3.0 data speeds. This tester lets you be sure you've got it the right way.
I didn't know that about 3 to C cables, makes sense
Ordered a couple of these, never knew they existed, I have so many cables that I have to use them to find a data one than just a charge cable. Nice
They just multiply!
@@temporarilyoffline One of them strange mysteries the Universe does to us!
Great video. Glad you showed us the tester AND the compact vehicle usb charger and how they work.
Thanks. I really like that car charger!
Thanks for putting this out there. I bought one of these and it arrived today. Now I have about 40 usb cables in my trash can lol.
I struggled with it, but eventually gave in and tossed them. My big take away was to just get one cable for each kit and not have any spares at all.
And side note: It's KB0OTY, long time no see ... How you doin?
@@temporarilyoffline Thanks, I'm doing well. Life got overwhelming so I have been in SWL mode for a few months now.
D+/D- only connects to one pinrow, because there is only one pair of data on the USB-A connector end. (Can't find a comment after 6 months that answers this.) Also instead of a cable tie for identification, I write the cable length in color on the ends, in UniPosca oil-based fine-tip pen ink. Red for power only, Blue for shielded full USB-3 data, Green for other with shielding, or White,Yellow,etc. for half-capable levels in between, There is a total of 10 different combinations I have found. Makes fast identification when grabbing the right one.
Great idea, thanks for the answer too!
Great video! I always learn from your channel. Just ordered both. Looking forward to testing my collection of mystery cables soon. Thanks Steve!
Glad to help Jack!
I have one of those testers. The indicator lights and descriptions could be better. I didn't notice till now the random copy of the copy of the copy has a fun message, "Acction: Don't Connect To Device!!!!!" I have also left the battery switch on for months now, not remembering to turn it off, and it still works.
I like how they just copy stuff without a care...
Battery will be fine as the USB completes the connection and the battery will kick in, remove usb and the battery can't discharge for power :)
I have teenagers at home. Anything USB A or C, combos of A and C, or Apple Lightning simply vanishes into thin air, never to be seen again.
My teenagers left a year ago... and left a mess behind to boot...
😂
Yeah great vid Steve bought one of these cable testers a couple of years ago for around $2
$2? Sweet!
Great video, very informative. Can't wait to get one, or two.
If you buy 2 you save 8%, couldn't pass that deal up. 😉
Good deal!
That's a really neat cord tester. I'll definitely add that to my cart. Thanks T.O.
Glad it helps!
Eye opening for sure and something I will get
Awesome!
How convenient is that! Nice, I like it, tnx Man!
Fits right in the box of USB cables to always be at the ready - that's how I should have ended the video... with keeping all the cables anyway 🤣
I got the same tester a while back and it's great to finally find and label the cables for what they are. I just wish they printed each cable type light reference on the back instead so it's easier to decipher between thunderbolt, lightning, and USB3.2 etc. Mine didn't have a manual, so I had to track them down and make my own reference chart. Anymore, if I buy a USB3 data cable, I just make sure its USB-IF certified.
For the price difference, I don't know why they make different cables like that. Would save us all some troubles!
I dont understand why the hell no one (literally no one ever) provides the god damn true technical specs of these usb cables. Even worse, why is it allowed to skip most of the wires from a god damn cable, and still allowed to call it a usb cable.. I would blame those idiots in the USB-IF that they screwed up this entire Type-C more than anybody else in the IT ever screwed up.
Two aux chargers and one tester ordered right away!!!! Awesome video!!
6:50 isn't that a micro USB? Mini is a bit bigger.
Yep it's the SuperSpeed (USB3) microUSB receptacle
Good deal - I always get them confused. I go by shape and they disappear so quick from usefulness... USB-D will be out soon enough I'm sure.
Very cool and this is very useful.
Glad you think so!
thanks for sharing. i was very impressed when you plugged usb-c and it lit up! free power from the air! keep that one!
Thanks, will do!
Great video T.O., I am always trying to figure out if a cable is charge only or if it transmits data too!
Better to know then to guess!
Thanks for this video. I have ordered a tester. I July counted the cables in my bin. 99 to be tested.
You've got some work ahead of you!
Very cool find!
Came out of one of the live streams... had to get it.
@@temporarilyofflineYou're welcome, lol.
@@Jody_VE5SAR You're the best!
That small USB car charger is neat. I'd be curious to know if the light is on at all times it's powered, and if so, what is the draw?
Its on all the time... dunno the draw, but all the current car chargers are like that unfortunately. Not really a big deal if you drive regularly, but coming back from deployment to find your car dead because the phone charger was lit up is a problem.
Gotta fight them now with a big solar trickle charger.
I'll hav to pick one up... Thanks for the video!
UBet!
One of the biggest dilemmas that I had when moving. What are all these cables and what can I get rid of and what should I keep. I got both devices and am going to start going through my cables and hopefully thinning them out. It does not solve one of my problems. A well made USB C cable that is 10+ feet needs to have a higher than normal guage wire so that you do not lose current going over 10 feet that you would going over 3 feet. This has caused me issues with tablets that I like to rapid charge but won't over a 10 foot cable. Anyway, for the car device, wonder how this would work on the car charge port built into a solar generator? That might be a good experiment.
That was the first way I tried it was plugged into a solar generator - would give you 2 more USB ports to charge more devices!
@@temporarilyoffline Giving you a PD port where there was not one before, yes. ;)
That was a great video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT, EXCELLENT Thanks for sharing. Yep Pee Ya Hoo etc. etc. etc.
Thanks Joel!
There are more USB questions. With this you know what connections it makes. But questions remain: what is the resistance of the power, and how clean are the data lines? How much V and A can the power do, and is there an e-marker chip inside?
I hear ya, I have another tool for some of those answers.
Love that cable tester. I have a bunch. some bad. I have that tester in my cart. and that car charger PD 45 watt . I have bigger ones 65W and 100 watt. NY got hit with heat wave. past 3 days so far . 92/98/93 . and muggy. some power grid trouble. fixing gas generators and electric lawn mowers and busy changing bad outlets that run AC units. if 20 amp circuit I put in 20 amp good commercial rated outlet. they hold up. most newer homes have #12 wires. better for AC . waiting to get paid so i can pay bills and get the cable tester. Heat slowing people down. even me. hard to fix stuff in the shop being so muggy ! I do have AC running on costumers generator. had to load test . 73's
Good luck getting back up and running!
With USB C - While using USB-C, try twisting your cable around. I have a cable that everything is lit both sides except D+- on one side, but when I twist the cable, it flips D+- from A to B
I have seen that too!
This is a handy bit to have.
Almost 2 bits
15:30 Thunderbolt cable may have A and B data? The ends are the same as USB-C.
The provision for being able to use both the "A" and "B" side of the USB2 D+/D- positions is available for USB-C products which have a "captive cable" (a cable that has one USB-C connector and is either permanently attached or has a non-USB connector on the opposite end). In the past, these signal positions have been used for vendor-specific functions which utilized e.g. I2C/TWI or UART to accomplish. Note that the standard USB-C cables do not include 2 independent USB2 differential pairs which would connect at both of those A/B positions for USB2, so a purpose-built captive cable is necessary. The common practice in the majority of products is for the USB2 A/B positions to be shorted together on the PCB.
you got it.
Rather than zip ties, I suggest it would be better to use a p-touch to label them with info like length, speed capability and whether data and/or power are connected. It’s helpful when digging through a pile of cables to find the one you need.
Gotta love those P-touches, I've got a whole box full of them!
I don't fully understand the side A and B led's, shouldn't they be lit on both sides if the signal is going from one plug to the other?
I'm not 100% sure either - I think its "operating as expected", but I'd have to read the spec to be sure. As long as it passes data, I'm happy so far. I haven't found a use case where it was an issue yet.
So when people say, "They are using this to get rid of cables...", what are you looking for (with this tester) to determine that?
I can understand wanting some power-only cables (ie. for a public charging location, so there's no risk of accessing your data). But are there times you want data-only cables, and not power?
It seemed most tests were of all the different combinations of connectors. I can see that useful as a reference. But if say 5 USB A to micro-USB cables were tested, would we see lots of different results? What would determine if you keep, or through away the cable?
I do agree with some posters that said qualitative testing would be useful. That is, even if they show power and data cables, how much power can it handle? How fast a speed can it transfer? I saw mention that a separate tester was available for that (I'll need to see if there's a video for it).
its a personal choice - In my case I had amassed so many "spare" cables that I really needed to narrow them all down and this was a really fast/easy way to do that. I threw out all the power only cables except for 1... and since then the collection has started growing again. I actually found that I needed some short cables that I never had in my collection as well. If you had a need to know about the extra features of a particular cable, this looks like the right tool for that job as well.
Great little and handy tester, at a good price. Now throw away those questionable cables. You know you will just get more.
its a revolving door...
Is there an explanation of what the individual PINs do, or a handy chart how to tell apart a PD cable from slow data from fast data?
I have this device and am not smart enough to use it.
My application for this device is to prove that the project isn't working because I have the wrong cable. I have found that I learn best if I have a project to explore/create - and this tool would be a part of that bigger learning process. Right now I'm learning that not all PD sources provide the right PD voltages for all projects. So that's the next tool I need. I do a lot of research when the project is fun.
Finally I'm ahead of you. Bought mine 6 months ago LOL.
What else did you get... I'm running low on video ideas...
Every geek going to have to have one.
Exactly. I'm waiting for the 3d printed belt holster.
Idk if I skimmed over it or adhd'ed past it but did you somehow test to see if A-to-A is possible for 3.0? Do you need to just use an A-to-C adapter or something?
@@Dazreiello-old I didn't demo that, but If you trust your adapter, then using it is a valid test. If you don't, you won't know if it's the cable or the adapter at fault
Are the connectors surface mount or through-hole mount?
I had to go back and watch the video, but they look surface mount to me!
Thanks and God Bless.
Same to you!
I have a USB A to C cable that I got from Adafruit that shows as having symmetrical GND and VBUS connections and no D+/D-. I can use this cord to connect my laptop and a keyboard and use the keyboard to type on the laptop with no loss of functionality - are the D+/D- pins not required for data transfer over this cable, or am I misunderstanding something about the specification?
You have the same understanding I do... maybe there is some other path for signals to go on, but now we'd need to read the USB and the HID specs to get further info. - head scratcher for sure.
How do you change the battery in this thing? It wont come out.
On mine there are two tabs on each edge of the battery. Spread those ot and the battery should pop right out!
@@temporarilyoffline Oh I was afraid they break off. Thank you
@@RodgerMudd Be gentle, give it a shot and if they do, get it replaced under warranty. Bad design if the replaceable battery can't be replaced!
Car charger adapter: How can you get multiple output voltages as called out in the video? I need 9vdc out.
You would need the appropriate "9v PD trigger cable" to make it work. The "device" requests the right power when plugged in. If your device is already USB-C, the plug it in. If not, Amazon will have the cable.
You would need the appropriate "9v PD trigger cable" to make it work. The "device" requests the right power when plugged in. If your device is already USB-C, the plug it in. If not, Amazon will have the cable.
Man, I love you but sometimes I hate you. Just last night I said "I need to stop watching TH-cam and buying so much cr@ap", next day BOOM, TH-cam send me a Subscriber notification just for the exact device I was needing so bad the other day while running through a ton of USB cables that were giving me issues. My wallet hates you so bad bro. Hahaha, thank you, buying one right away and disappearing from internet so I dont go broke...Actually, will be cool a tester that test the speed of the cable too! dang it!
I know the feeling... how do you think I wound up with one?
@@temporarilyoffline LMAO, so you are sharing your problems like a virus huh 😂
Hey, just to beat you I just bought it with the clear case for $2 more! Lol
@@angelscomputers I didn't see that until I was making the video. You win!
@angelscomputers like a bad tasting drink at a bar: "this is awful, try it!"
So, why in H E double toothpicks are there so many various "Standard" cables types? It's like RS232 All over again. 25 pin D, 9 pin D, Null modem... Ugh.. de N9RZV
i0.wp.com/imgs.xkcd.com/comics/standards.png
Essential test equipment
You got that right!
USB is evil but this helps!
You got that right!
Does it tell you whether the cable can support "fast charging" and at what power level? I have some cables that may be broken and have stopped fast charging my phone, but want to figure out if it's the cable or the power adapter.
That's a good question! I don't think the cable cares unless you have a special PD Trigger cable for an odd purpose. Asong as the wires aren't broken inside, the cable shouldn't have any brains to exert change on either end. So I'd say "yes" it can detect that situation.
Can this board test apple oem USB-C -> Ligning cable with CC pin (PowerDelivery detection pin) and these god damn (maybe xiaomi) 9000watt USBA -> USBC with usb3.0 Ground pin which is connected to USBC CC pin to simulate 9000wat powerdelivery protocol via USBA cable?
Most likely yes. I didn't have a lightning cable to test with, but it did have a lightning port
Schroedinger's USB cable: it is simultaneously right side up and upside down until you try to plug it in, at which point the probability function collapses into the opposite of how you are trying
50% of the time its wrong 100% of the time.
I call power only mini USB cables that size 70cm dipoles in waiting
Exactly!
I need thanks
Exactly!
You do realise you don't need the mic sock on indoors 😂
Wow. That never occured to me! You're a lifesaver!🤣
Splurge. Use a labelmaker or mailing labels. Label each cable, save all the guessing in the future.
too good for zip ties eh? I see how ya are ;-)
I had to troubleshoot an old USB A/B cable yesterday. It carries data for 40 out of every 50 seconds then just drops packets until the host resets the bus after about 10 seconds.
IDFK, man. That $60 tester a commenter mentioned might tell me but it's circular-filed for good measure.
That's an interesting problem. Does that cable do that on every machine?
Keep all the cables. Eventually, they all break and then you need the others for a backup. At some point you have no cables left. Avid that point by keeping all cables.
it really hurt man... really hurt.
6:09 it's pretty fast because there is no logic in it xD it uses wires inside cable you are testing to compleate circuit from battery to led light . I mean it's very usefull just ... lol :D
Thanks for watching.
Спасибо за обзор!!!!
You're welcome!
Most USB Cable have fake Ferrite so no Noise Suppressor. It's only plastic. To test with a magnet to see.
Good Tip!
just got done with this because I was hoping you would hit on one aspect of cables that many seem to not notice. and you kinda did. While it wasnt your goal in any way. data cables have a correct way and a not correct way. there is an up and down on them. besides that, my main point for comment is that with all the dead broken conectores cables, its time to spend the few dollars and order the box of connectors from the Jungle market, and start re-connectorizing all those cables. Some you will find are easy and worth it, others not so much.
The true USB-C cables with the 20 wires in it, toss those babies, you will never resolder them correctly.
Its a dilemma... all of it!
@@temporarilyoffline I do agree. Not all repairs are worth it. Be selective. I keep the repair kits for the field because out in the desert, next day delivery doesnt exist, and so repairs are the only way to keep on the air sometimes, until the delivery guy from the Jungle market can drop the order of next cables to be destroyed by the kids and environment!
useless when you want to test cables with the same ends like c to c, micro to micro, etc
I didn't show it in the video, but it will test USB C2C
3 diks, hahaha
Right!?!
With C cables, you have to plug it in and then flip it and plug it in again. Then you can see better how the connections are inside the cable. The data lines or others may flip one to the other side of the tester.
I saw that on a few cables