Simple, functional build. Nicely done. We have the same type wire stripper and crimper. You should check the usb outs to make sure they aren't live. I have a similar one in several boxes and it's live all the time. I added another small switch inside the box after the fact, just to kill the usb outs.
I've built a few of these, even one in a Zombie box after seeing your video! I find using a RigRunner (or knockoff) instead of multiple fused leads makes it much simpler and neater, only one cable from the battery. Plenty of room to mount on the inside of the cover.
DeWalt, send him some Forstner bits..smooth and quiet! i attach an inline fuse to my foot when sleeping ,it helps jump start me in the morning, nice box!
Nice video TO. Why did you put on the "escutcheon" plate(that is what it is called) for the receptacles? Couldn't you have just secured them into the box top?
The simplest battery I ever had was a 10x AA battery holder with Nimh cells in it. It powered my TX500 transceiver for 4-8 hours, although that radio had very low receive current. I recently bought a Jackery power pack and solar panel in a sale. It's the current lifepo version. It isn't cheap, but it does everything. I can power my G90 from it for nearly two days. With the solar panel attached it's pretty much infinite. It's not lightweight though.
By TX500 you mean LAB599 Discovery TX500 or some other TX? Pretty cool to carry the NiMH forward! That G90 is "the sweet spot" of radio, good price, low power draw, functional
@@temporarilyoffline Yes, the Lab 599. I had one of the first ones they made. I did like it but the connectors made the practical side difficult, also lack of an internal ATU.
I did say "simple" - and that's harsh man, I'm "drilling" into plastic! I did at least switch over to the drum sander in the drill motor when the dremel died.
@@temporarilyoffline went with a Rigid 22” box. Going to start build today. Is there a downside to using a fused Anderson distribution block to run power from the battery to the different plugs as opposed to running them all fused directly to battery. Was just thinking it might help me with wire management.
I’m definitely considering this for a mobile build as opposed to tapping my car’s fuses or trying to bust through the firewall. What charger do you use for the 100Ah battery besides solar?
Nice box. !00 AH now you can run 12V coffee pot and plug in ham radio. I just got NOCO battery boxes just came today from brown truck ! But I got the group 31 bigger one and 2 GC2 ones for big battery. For RV install. The 100 AH with power queen I made has Main disconnect switch and fuse. Just #4 and #10 wire . They have them inline fuse holders in 10 AWG and 8 AWG as well. The #8 is a MAXI fuse. That stuff came Sunday amazon. for the holes they are 1- 1/8 in hole. I have right size bits. also hole saw and step bit. I do this very often. I have same yellow tools ! and some red tools with yellow battery and green tools with yellow battery. Adapters allow different color battery on different tool. A small wood block holds battery from sliding around. the packing foam the battery comes with works as well. just trim to fit and have room for storage. piece of foam on top of battery and battery stays in place. The RV I did with it outside in the box , I packed foam all around battery ! . insulated battery box ! and was a low temp LiFePO4 100 AH. 73
@@temporarilyoffline ...from about 6:42-6:47 there is a honeycomb-looking surface underneath the battery...what is that? Is it the bottom of the box or something else? thanks!
@@ahendrix9787 That's why I couldn't find it! Yeah, that's the bottom of the box. Since making this video, I've taken the battery out of the box and put it on the front of my RV and then filled that box with all my smaller batteries... so you can understand my confusion ;-)
Do you have any information yet on how the power Queen MPPT charge controller is going to work out? Why do you no longer recommend the victron solar charge controller? Is it because of RF hash? And I noticed the renogy 500 w inverter in the video was the thing producing the hash. Do you have another you prefer yet?
Great build TO. I have a 50ah battery with up grades after i get used to them. What solar panel is that in your video, does it fold up for storage/transport? Thanks in advance.
That's a 200w flexible panel - iallpowers.com/products/allpowers-sf200-flexible-solar-panel-200w?ref=rjqlvc69 - it doesn't fold up at all. Do you know what size you are looking for - I have a few fold up panels from 60w up to 400w.
I have used this one: iallpowers.com/products/100w-portable-solar-panel-charger?ref=rjqlvc69 which folds up pretty small for a 100w panel and then this one that is less portable: iallpowers.com/products/suitcase-solar-panels?ref=rjqlvc69 - The small foldable panel is in this video: th-cam.com/video/me9LHHvoVEU/w-d-xo.html
Question: I have super basic setup. 100ah lifepo4 battery connected to a Victron 375VA inverter but I was wondering if there anything I can wire in to be able to connect an A/C battery charger using those powerpole connectors? Also do I need to add a fuse anywhere?
@temporarilyoffline with the inverter connected to the battery terminal, would having powerpoles also connected to battery terminal for battery charging mess inverter up at all when charging?
I thought you would have to use a voltage step down converter to lower the 12 volts to 5 volts to the USB connections. I thought USB only delivered 5 volts.
Ive seen multiple videos that talk about these solar battery boxes, and charging them via solar but never mention charging it back at your shack or elsewhere .. what would you recommend to use to charge it quickly without solar. Like a noco charger and just connect it to one of the powerpoles? or directly from your shack PSU? I saw in your Build your own you mention the bioeno charger and your shack PSU and connecting it to the PowerMini2. What if you didnt have a powermini2?
Your Shack PSU (unless you can dial it up) won't put out enough uumph to fully charge the LiFePo4 - it will get you close enough to be usable, but a better option is a real charger - for smaller batteries, the bioenno charger works: geni.us/qbN9 for bigger batteries I use a 40a charger: ipowerqueen.com/products/power-queen-14-6v-40a-lifepo4-battery-charger?ref=temporarilyoffline
Just add a Victron shunt so you can monitor your battery health via Bluetooth when not charging it. Also Redodo sells a battery box that fits the mini 12V battery. That is what I got. Has a handle and for safety, it provides a strap around the box so it does not accidently come open. I found it to be a good start and have added solar, PD charging and a more colorful battery minder. Got the shunt after watching Kyles video. Does your code work on the battery box I wonder?
Steve - Beware of those USB chargers with displays. I built 2 boxes with those style chargers that I got from Amazon. I thought the same way you did, that the power switch turned them completely off, it does not. The switch only turns off the display but leaves the USB chargers powered up. The USB chargers remain powered, so there is still a parasitic current draw on them that will slowly drain your battery. This may not matter much to you with such a large 100aH battery, but with a 15 or 20 aH battery that it is significant. I ended up rewiring both of my boxes with a power switch between the usb chargers and the battery to turn the USB chargers off completely to avoid battery drain. Maybe your chargers are different than mine were other than that 1 small item to be aware of that's a very nice box!
@@temporarilyoffline It probably doesn't matter much with that being such a large battery. I had 1 box with a 15 aH and another with a 20 aH battery and the battery charge would drop from 14.2 to 12.6v over a period of a about a month. I initially though it may have been the battery BMS causing it I disconnected the battery and the charge only dropped about 0.1 to 0.2v and then I noticed switching the display off did nothing as far as the USB charging. It seems kind of a stupid design to me to only turn off the display and leave the charger still active. After installing the power switch the problem with the battery discharge went away. I stored my boxes over the winter and the voltage only dropped from 14.2 to 14 over a 6 month storage period.
@@temporarilyoffline That's good Steve. You obviously have a higher quality USB charger/meter than the ones I bought off Amazon, obviously it must differ by manufacturer. You just never know sometimes what your getting when you purchases stuff like that off Amazon (as they say "your mileage may vary!")
@@temporarilyoffline those panel mounts have spec sheets that will tell you what size hole they need. Shoot you can also find that info on the Amazon listings.
Based on a few comments I just went and checked - the USB socket is off until you press the display/on button. Thanks for looking out!
Simple, functional build. Nicely done. We have the same type wire stripper and crimper. You should check the usb outs to make sure they aren't live. I have a similar one in several boxes and it's live all the time. I added another small switch inside the box after the fact, just to kill the usb outs.
Based on your comment I just went and checked - the USB socket is off until you press the display/on button. Thanks for looking out!
I've built a few of these, even one in a Zombie box after seeing your video! I find using a RigRunner (or knockoff) instead of multiple fused leads makes it much simpler and neater, only one cable from the battery. Plenty of room to mount on the inside of the cover.
Agreed! I was going for "Simple" in this build. I have another idea for a new build coming up. Stay tuned!
STEVE!!!!!!
VERY GOOD Video !!
Great detail on the build out.
Just another reason Your channel is TOP TIER!!
THANK YOU !
Thanks Eric!
I use a step bit for my power box builds works great. Thanks for the video
My step bit wasn't big enough! 😳
Watching this makes me want to build a battery box. Looks great!
You got this!
That is a perfect setup Steve. I like that design. I need to make one
Super simple, room for expansion! Thanks for watching!
Nice build Steve, I am doing something very close but different
Looking forward to seeing it!
Looks good Steve.
I hope your sponsorship dreams come true.😊
You and me both!
Very nice 👍 much cheaper to build the see than buy the ready made and you can have only what you need
Exactly!
DeWalt, send him some Forstner bits..smooth and quiet! i attach an inline fuse to my foot when sleeping ,it helps jump start me in the morning, nice box!
Imma have to try that fuse to the foot trick - but I need to put it in backwards so I stay in bed longer.
I would have gone with 30A fuses for the power pole outlets, since many 100W radios can draw 22 or 23 amps on transmit.
Great idea - folks gotta read their manuals!
@@temporarilyofflinebesides the PP30 socket is rated for it as well. 25 amp might be better, up to you.
I like the simplicity I will probably modify it a bit with mine and only running maybe a 30 ah battery
Great idea! Would love to see your finished box!
Love your setup
Thanks!
Nice video TO. Why did you put on the "escutcheon" plate(that is what it is called) for the receptacles? Couldn't you have just secured them into the box top?
It's like a window without trim! Yeah, perfectly fine with out it.
The simplest battery I ever had was a 10x AA battery holder with Nimh cells in it. It powered my TX500 transceiver for 4-8 hours, although that radio had very low receive current. I recently bought a Jackery power pack and solar panel in a sale. It's the current lifepo version. It isn't cheap, but it does everything. I can power my G90 from it for nearly two days. With the solar panel attached it's pretty much infinite. It's not lightweight though.
By TX500 you mean LAB599 Discovery TX500 or some other TX? Pretty cool to carry the NiMH forward!
That G90 is "the sweet spot" of radio, good price, low power draw, functional
@@temporarilyoffline Yes, the Lab 599. I had one of the first ones they made. I did like it but the connectors made the practical side difficult, also lack of an internal ATU.
@@GordonHudson no internal ATU is how they get ya!
@@temporarilyoffline I still use resonant antennas but I can cope without returning them every time.
Not only are you using the impact driver, but you have the magnetic bit on the end of the quickconnect.
I did say "simple" - and that's harsh man, I'm "drilling" into plastic! I did at least switch over to the drum sander in the drill motor when the dremel died.
Great build, I do similar but with victron have a too much noise on hf band in my case so swtich to genasun and resolv 99,99 of problem
Excellent!
Great build! Looking to do something like this but want to make sure I can add a handle
A handle is a great idea - there are other battery boxes on Amazon, I bet you can find one with a handle
@@temporarilyoffline went with a Rigid 22” box. Going to start build today. Is there a downside to using a fused Anderson distribution block to run power from the battery to the different plugs as opposed to running them all fused directly to battery. Was just thinking it might help me with wire management.
@jslawsby no issues at all using a power block. This was a "simple" build example and I have a more complex build where I used one of those myself.
great thank you!--it gives me confidence i could make something like this
You could, start small and build confidence and skills
I’m definitely considering this for a mobile build as opposed to tapping my car’s fuses or trying to bust through the firewall. What charger do you use for the 100Ah battery besides solar?
I use a 40a power queen charger: ipowerqueen.com/products/power-queen-14-6v-40a-lifepo4-battery-charger?ref=temporarilyoffline
Nice box. !00 AH now you can run 12V coffee pot and plug in ham radio. I just got NOCO battery boxes just came today from brown truck ! But I got the group 31 bigger one and 2 GC2 ones for big battery. For RV install. The 100 AH with power queen I made has Main disconnect switch and fuse. Just #4 and #10 wire . They have them inline fuse holders in 10 AWG and 8 AWG as well. The #8 is a MAXI fuse. That stuff came Sunday amazon. for the holes they are 1- 1/8 in hole. I have right size bits. also hole saw and step bit. I do this very often. I have same yellow tools ! and some red tools with yellow battery and green tools with yellow battery. Adapters allow different color battery on different tool. A small wood block holds battery from sliding around. the packing foam the battery comes with works as well. just trim to fit and have room for storage. piece of foam on top of battery and battery stays in place. The RV I did with it outside in the box , I packed foam all around battery ! . insulated battery box ! and was a low temp LiFePO4 100 AH. 73
I love building battery boxes
@@temporarilyoffline I bult many. no 2 alike and all work. most not for me
Do you need the charge controller if the battery has a BMS inboard?
a 1-1/8 " hole saw will make the hole, no adjustment required
Sure will! Didn't feel like digging it out and messing with it. Probably should have in hindsight.
...great video, TO...what is that the battery is sitting on in the bottom of the box? Thanks and 73!
I did a quick scrub and didn't see it. What did it look like? (I love batteries and have a lot of them)
@@temporarilyoffline ...from about 6:42-6:47 there is a honeycomb-looking surface underneath the battery...what is that? Is it the bottom of the box or something else? thanks!
@@ahendrix9787 That's why I couldn't find it! Yeah, that's the bottom of the box. Since making this video, I've taken the battery out of the box and put it on the front of my RV and then filled that box with all my smaller batteries... so you can understand my confusion ;-)
Do you have any information yet on how the power Queen MPPT charge controller is going to work out?
Why do you no longer recommend the victron solar charge controller? Is it because of RF hash?
And I noticed the renogy 500 w inverter in the video was the thing producing the hash. Do you have another you prefer yet?
The Power Queen MPPT video will be out soon. I don't know of an inverter that is quiet yet, luckily most of our gear doesn't need AC power.
Great build TO. I have a 50ah battery with up grades after i get used to them. What solar panel is that in your video, does it fold up for storage/transport? Thanks in advance.
That's a 200w flexible panel - iallpowers.com/products/allpowers-sf200-flexible-solar-panel-200w?ref=rjqlvc69 - it doesn't fold up at all. Do you know what size you are looking for - I have a few fold up panels from 60w up to 400w.
@@temporarilyoffline I was looking at a 100 watt fold up to use at pota. I am going to get the same controler that you have in this video.
I have used this one: iallpowers.com/products/100w-portable-solar-panel-charger?ref=rjqlvc69 which folds up pretty small for a 100w panel and then this one that is less portable: iallpowers.com/products/suitcase-solar-panels?ref=rjqlvc69 - The small foldable panel is in this video: th-cam.com/video/me9LHHvoVEU/w-d-xo.html
Question: I have super basic setup. 100ah lifepo4 battery connected to a Victron 375VA inverter but I was wondering if there anything I can wire in to be able to connect an A/C battery charger using those powerpole connectors? Also do I need to add a fuse anywhere?
You can plug any AC charger into the powerpoles that are going to the battery. Just don't exceed the amperage of the wire you use. Fuse is up to you.
@temporarilyoffline with the inverter connected to the battery terminal, would having powerpoles also connected to battery terminal for battery charging mess inverter up at all when charging?
@CVNTGETENOUGH Nope. Wouldn't hurt a bit. That's how I do it all the time.
9:54 hey we got the same dremel!
Pros!
Charge controller link? Thanks!
Here you go: amzn.to/3zBitxs
I thought you would have to use a voltage step down converter to lower the 12 volts to 5 volts to the USB connections. I thought USB only delivered 5 volts.
The panel mount USB device does that job for us. It's magic!
Ive seen multiple videos that talk about these solar battery boxes, and charging them via solar but never mention charging it back at your shack or elsewhere
.. what would you recommend to use to charge it quickly without solar. Like a noco charger and just connect it to one of the powerpoles? or directly from your shack PSU? I saw in your Build your own you mention the bioeno charger and your shack PSU and connecting it to the PowerMini2. What if you didnt have a powermini2?
Your Shack PSU (unless you can dial it up) won't put out enough uumph to fully charge the LiFePo4 - it will get you close enough to be usable, but a better option is a real charger - for smaller batteries, the bioenno charger works: geni.us/qbN9 for bigger batteries I use a 40a charger: ipowerqueen.com/products/power-queen-14-6v-40a-lifepo4-battery-charger?ref=temporarilyoffline
Just add a Victron shunt so you can monitor your battery health via Bluetooth when not charging it. Also Redodo sells a battery box that fits the mini 12V battery. That is what I got. Has a handle and for safety, it provides a strap around the box so it does not accidently come open. I found it to be a good start and have added solar, PD charging and a more colorful battery minder. Got the shunt after watching Kyles video. Does your code work on the battery box I wonder?
Discount Code should work - I kinda want the shunt, but the charge controller has some of that same functionality built in.
Steve - Beware of those USB chargers with displays. I built 2 boxes with those style chargers that I got from Amazon. I thought the same way you did, that the power switch turned them completely off, it does not. The switch only turns off the display but leaves the USB chargers powered up. The USB chargers remain powered, so there is still a parasitic current draw on them that will slowly drain your battery. This may not matter much to you with such a large 100aH battery, but with a 15 or 20 aH battery that it is significant. I ended up rewiring both of my boxes with a power switch between the usb chargers and the battery to turn the USB chargers off completely to avoid battery drain. Maybe your chargers are different than mine were other than that 1 small item to be aware of that's a very nice box!
That's a good find. In my smaller battery box I do have a "master switch", but I was going for simple with this box... maybe a bit too-simple.
@@temporarilyoffline It probably doesn't matter much with that being such a large battery. I had 1 box with a 15 aH and another with a 20 aH battery and the battery charge would drop from 14.2 to 12.6v over a period of a about a month. I initially though it may have been the battery BMS causing it I disconnected the battery and the charge only dropped about 0.1 to 0.2v and then I noticed switching the display off did nothing as far as the USB charging. It seems kind of a stupid design to me to only turn off the display and leave the charger still active. After installing the power switch the problem with the battery discharge went away. I stored my boxes over the winter and the voltage only dropped from 14.2 to 14 over a 6 month storage period.
Based on your comment I just went and checked - the USB socket is off until you press the display/on button. Thanks for looking out!
@@temporarilyoffline That's good Steve. You obviously have a higher quality USB charger/meter than the ones I bought off Amazon, obviously it must differ by manufacturer. You just never know sometimes what your getting when you purchases stuff like that off Amazon (as they say "your mileage may vary!")
@@ky4rod exactly, I bet even getting this exact unit again might have a different way of working.
You need a 1-1/8” bit for those holes, I just had to buy one to add a hole in my battery box. Next time read the instructions :-)
Instructions?
@@temporarilyoffline those panel mounts have spec sheets that will tell you what size hole they need. Shoot you can also find that info on the Amazon listings.
@@k6usy that was sarcasm.
@@temporarilyofflinethe internet doesn’t translate sarcasm.
You missed any form of battery restraint. Important to prevent the battery bulldozing into the fittings and fixtures.
Good tip for anybody doing serious ham radio!
I refuse to use fuses. Everything I build these dats has Circuit Breakers. If I'm out in the boonies and I have no spare fuses......
Good point, maybe next build!
You pronounce XT-60 wrong
PowerPole > XT-60
Awesome! KO4HPC 73
Thanks for watching!