i run my pentastars with 5w-30 no matter what year model it is. unbelievable how they went from 5w-30 on the early year models then all the way down to 0w-20 in todays engines. thanks epa!
YES sir I remember that old video.... I followed your advice with my Jeep Wrangler 392 and went with the 5w 40 and valvetrain is still quiet. Great video hope this one does well too..
My 2015 3.6 VVT (bought new) specified 5W20 which I used in winter and 5W30 in summer. Never had a problem and no valve train clatter. I changed the oil and filter every six months or 5,000 miles.
We own more than 15 of the 3.6 liter Rams and 1 Durango, '17-'19's, and they are a good balance of fuel economy and performance in a NA, non-GDI engine. No valve train issues yet, just get good at oil filter/cooler housing replacemnts.
Very good video. You may want to check/replace the oil filter after the first 500 miles. I have seen many other videos using the Restore and Protect oil, and it does such a good job that the oil filter is at the “plugged up” stage after just 300 to 500 miles. Additionally, after watching your video, I put 5w30 oil in my 2023 Ram 1500 5.7L engine (with just 3,000 miles) and it works perfectly fine just like it should. In fact, I let the truck sit for 2 to 3 weeks in mid 30’s temperatures, stand in front of the truck while I remote start it, and there is ZERO rattling on the start up, and the MDS/ECO mode works just fine.
Used 5w-30 Mobile 1 full synthetic in my old 2005 F-150. 5.4l triton. Also changed my spark plugs at 30,000 miles. I’m old school when it comes to maintenance. Had over 600,000 miles on that old truck. Still running good, body not as lucky. I live in the salt belt 😢
2020 JT 3.6 just flipped 200,000 miles here.... i mostly run 0W20 Amsoil in the cold months in NW Indiana, and 5w30 Amsoil or Valvoline EP in the hot months. FWIW YMMV....
I own a 2016 ram 1500 .....I remember your video about the tick ...... running valvoline extended protection high mileage 5w30......gtl base stock .........motor runs quiet and smooth ...8 degrees pressure shoots right to 61psi cold start no tick..... motor loves the 5w30 and the great valvoline add pack..
I'm in 100% agreement with you on this. Just bought a 2020 JGC with the pentastar from a private owner. It needed an oil change. So i went out and bought 0w20 valvoline restore & protect. It does fine since its winter now but I'm not a fan of these thin watery oils. Come spring I'm going to change it to 5w30 as i think thats the best weight oil for longevity.
Yeah, I never run the thin oil since it's just for the no load EPA MPG test requirements. I've always ran the 5W-30 Synthetic or 10W-30. I know for a fact from working at Kia and owning a couple of Kia/Hyundai's that those engines would last much longer with good clean 5W-30 synthetic. About the only engine I would agree on the thin oil in are the hybrids that don't run long enough to heat the oil up very much. Thanks for the video. 147K on my wife's Grand Caravan Pentastar and no bad rockers yet. Yet.
We have a 2020 Dodge Durango GT 4wd and a 2023 Jeep Wrangler both with the 3.6L Penastar. I bought both brand new. All my new purchases get oil changes at 700 miles. The Durango has 149k miles running mostly Penzoil Ultra Platnium 0w40 with 10k oil change intervals. I noticed with the 3.6L, it has 30psi + or - 1 psi at all rpms except when the cruise control wants to slow the vehicle down. Then the oil pressure goes to 80psi. The hemi tick is from LOW oil pressure as low as 5psi. Except on the supercharged engines which maintain 30psi. Oil viscosity is a strange thing. Our 2018 Ram 2500 4wd 6.7L Cummins beast. Has run 5w40 Rotella since that first oil change at 700 miles. The Cummins runs way quieter with the 5w40. We live near Lancaster, CA in the scorching hot Mohave desert. While the Jeep and the Ram stay local, except for camping trips. The Durango goes to San Francisco every week. Unless I stay in town for overtime or other activities. My 2016 Ram 1500 4wd Ecodiesel maintains oil pessure between 30-45psi. At 177k that Ecodiesel still runs quiet and smooth. I didn't check the range of oil pressure on the 2012 Dodge Journry or 2014 Ram 1500 3.6L my wife used to have. Part of the issue of ANY brand vehicle today. Is, how the vehicle is driven, oil pressure, and luck of the draw. Some vehicles have everything perfect, while others are doomed in a short time.
2022 Dodge Challenger 3.6. Read the manual- 5w-30 is ok to use if "the other oils aren't available." Look at the bottle of synthetic oil with the specs. Chrysler MS-6395 is on the mobil 1 5w30. If the temps are above zero degrees F use it and in the long term your engine will be much happier.
My 2014 ram called for 5w20 I’ve ran it since it was brand new and she’s at 199,000 and zero major issues That’s crazy that they switched to zero weight
Sorta Depends how "dirty" (Sludged) your engine is. "Best" case IMO is to use VRP on a vehicle that you "know" the History/Change Interval/Abuse level. If the Oil and Filter that VRP is replacing looks like Sludge already then you will want to swap the Filter Early and keep an eye on the condition of the Oil on the Dipstick. Valvoline claims it (VRP) won't clog the Oil Filter but that assumes a normal change interval AND an Engine not already at/over the Edge of being a Sludge Factory... I documented the condition of my XG9018 Oil Filter for my 2014 GMC Terrain 2.4L Ecotec Engine in a couple of TH-cam (Short) Videos. At 3008 miles and its replacement (new) then a "check-up" after 114 miles... Looks "Normal"/Similar to the previous Filters... Just that it is a better quality filter then usual and relatively speaking is less likely to twist/tear with use because of reinforcement mesh that most other Cartridge Oil Filters I've used on my Ecotec engines don't have and it shows...
The pouring is the most satisfying part. What is the OCI on this engine? Does the engine consume any oil? If so, are you going to measure it and see if VRP reduces it? Thanks.
I had an '05 hemi I changed to 10w40. It had a sensor I did not know about that shut the motor down because it sensed the wrong weight oil. That ended up costinge $500 in new sensors and computer reflash so the car would run.
I have a 2014 GC. It's got 176k on the odometer. It's been a great engine. I've run 0W-20 but I religiously change the oil every 3K... never 10K. I agree when you said it's a great engine if you maintain it and especially if you change the oil every 3k.
If u live in a warm climate i'd stop using 0w20 it aint good for the engine regardless of how religiously u change it u are better off on 0w30 really depends on your winters etc but agressive driving don't ever do it on 0w20
I remember you’re other video quite well. I just bought my wife a used 23 grand Cherokee with the Pentastar a couple of weeks ago and have been debating the same dilemma.
I recently put the rod and main oil clearance argument to bed, some saying the rod & main clearances were different when they initially recommended 5w-30 for the 3.6 pentastar vs now where they recommend 0w-20 (same exact clearance specs, vvt timing insignificant…milliseconds reaction time), the main constraint is the cold flow characteristics. Given the collective machinists knowledge and the fact they don’t recommend different hydraulic tensioners…cam phasers based on viscosity, 5w is totally fine. And has anyone actually seen the difference in viscosity between a 0 and 5w? It’s relatively nothing if you look at the charts. IE, something like low tenths centistokes. And the last number, at the 100°C viscosity…. You’d have to go up to a high 40/low 50 weight to get to the viscosity of a 5w or 0w at 40°C! The low viscosities are there for economy. They don’t care if you get 300k miles out of your engine. They want you to consume. As to the valvetrain issues…it won’t fix it. It will help mitigate the progression to complete failure. If you don’t have an issue, going to a 5w-30 or 5w-40 will mitigate wear in trunion bearings and timing chain links…which happens to be one reason why Euro oil specs are so stringent. Personally, I’ve no tick or valvetrain issue. Higher viscosity WILL give a wider margin in internal extreme engine conditions. Specifically, a higher HTHS, High Temp High Shear rating in that regard. That’s the first line of defense, viscosity. The second line is Anti-Wear additives which protect when there IS contact. I’d rather not get to that point. That’s why I personally run 5w-40 Euro spec synthetic. 5w-30 would be a step in the right direction as well. All this said, many engines will be just fine on the recommended viscosity. The problem is if YOUR engine is an outlier on spec/tolerance stack up/extreme operating conditions. That’s where the higher viscosity/HTHS will offer a wider margin of safety.
Good post. You’re missing a big point. If you’re this in depth, as a consumer, then YOU NEED to run oil analyses and create some repeatable data points. The reason these engines IMO see roller failures is because the majority of them idle. Too much. People need to be ok with pressing down on the foot feed and letting the tach see 5-6 k often.
I did alot of research on this very thing. I came across a thread where an engineer for this very engine said when start stop became a thing they coated the bearings and made changes. That's where I stop and wonder if I should.
I just switched over to 0-30 in my JT. I ran an oil analysis on the 0-20 and will do the same on the 0-30. My quick impression ... the engine seems to run quieter and smoother. I've also noticed that the tensioner holds pressure better as well with less clackity clack on start up. I'm still running the 0-20 in my wifes JL and will probably switch that one over as well.
My wife has a 2016 Dodge Charger with the 3.6 80,000 miles so far without issue. But starting at about 60,000 i started using 5W30 in it instead of the recommended 5W20. It overall seems quiter & happier. MPG has not changed any either. I will continue using it
My 17 versa started a timing chain noise on startup after the miles increased to 120k I used 10w30 instead of 5w30 and no more noise because in Texas most of the year is warm 😊
I never use any oil below a 5w30 in everything I own. My wife has a Toyota 4Runner and it has had 5w30 from the first oil change. The lower oil weight is being pushed by the EPA.
My sister got my wifes 2011 Durango,it had 166k,and I only used 10w30,changed oil every 4k.Original plugs still. My new Toyota hybrids use 0w-16! The new 6b oils are thin but have a robust additive pack. Using 10-30 on my hybrid would damage it,because of pressure dynamics. People in the USA always choose big numbers,use what the cap says,change your oil on time,you will not have any problems.
Yeah 0w20 is thin and that's why I do my changes every 3k. I use an oil extractor and my changes are around $20 each time. BTW if you catch that tick early it's a $9 part and I've watched videos of people doing it themselves in the afternoon. With that done you could potentially get another 100k out of that motor. The bottom end is a solid design and build.
Good call using the higher viscosity oil. It will better protect the engine from wear. Fuel savings doesn't mean much if your engines don't last...it's a fools errand, and consumers pay the price (as you mentioned). I have 227,000 miles on a 2006 Toyota Matrix using an API approved full synthetic 5w30 with 5k OCI and OEM filter. My car actually got a service update saying it could use 0w20, not gonna happen.
Depends on your environment. The 0w20 is probably superior in super cold temps, preventing dry starts for prolonged periods. The 5w30 thrives in warmer environments at the cost of reduced power due to the VVT system working better with faster flowiing oils. I personally prefer the 5w20 in cold and warm environments.
0w does Not cling ,dripping off parts. Dry starting while it quickly gets there. 5w stays on parts. Still quickly getting there. 80,000 mile engine burning oil , 100,000 mile engine failures on 0w with 10,000 mile oil changes. Go figure.
As a trained engine builder, any power loss is not due to vvt. It would be due to windage in the crankcase. The difference in the viscosities you mentioned wouldn’t even be measurable…milliseconds. The final camshaft timing relative to crank wouldn’t be different, so no power difference factor there.
Yes, it needs a thicker oil, I agree. But, you most likely not hearing the same thing. These have same issue as Ford does with the wipers wearing out in the phasers. Putting a thicker oil in will give you either more time, or save them to begin with. I cant say for sure on the second, but it does seem the oil recommended is truely below grade for its needs and is what is causing the wear, imo. I just know, that so far, I have been able to buy more time and reduce VVT off target error by using 10-30. I wouldnt go much heavier than that tho due to tight bearing clearance. On a looser engine circling the drain I'd go up to 15-40.
The key here is 4-5K oil changes, good oil, maybe a little longer intervals Amsoil or equivalents. That being said in my opinion i think all the ticking noises COULD be subpar parts supplied to FCA.
Of the 10 million engines made since 2011, about 1% supposedly have faulty rocker arms which fail prematurely. The ticking is usually that issue which ain't gonna be fixed by changing oil viscosity... $2-3K in engine work will fix it...
I own a 2021 wrangler with 3.6 pentastar. It calls for 0w20 oil, the jeep has 95k miles. This will be the third time using 5w30 oil. I do hear the difference in noise level coming from the engine but l have not seen any change in oil psig or mpgs. I drive 2400-3000 miles every month mostly highway miles.
Man doesn't know oil. 0w20 is still 20 grade. People run 5w30 and still have lifter issues. Owners manual states you can run 5w30 in a pinch. 0 in 0w20 is winter specs. Look at a chart and difference between 0w20 and 5w30 is minimal.
Just so u know 5w30 is safe to be used on any car that uses 0w20 also valvoline engineers said so for hard driving towing and warm climates its perfectly fine i actually use 0w30 european castrol in a 2016 honda crv which calls for 0w20 witj no issues also the 5w30 european oil castrol in summer the euro oils have a better oil film strength than your north american stuff also thin oils were made to get better fuel economy according to valvoline engineers
Buddy i have been using “Shell Gas Truck 5W-30 “ in my wifes 3.6 for 140,000 miles and engine is quite as a mouse . Runs perfect and doesnt burn a single drop of oil in 5.000 miles between oil changes .. now shell doesnt make the shell gas truck oil anymore , so Shell and Penzoil ( same company) said use penzoil 5w-30 ultra platinum in its place. So next oil change it and my jeep will get the penzoil .. as i just used the last 5 quart jug of the shell i had in my Jeep..
u are better off using Castrol 5w30 European oil has a higher VI index than North American oils BMW spec I use it no issues never add oil another good one is Amsoil 5w30 Euro oil....Penzoil is garbage lot of bad reviews lately and known to cause leaks
Not a great idea. The variable valve timing on these engines is designed for the specified oil. It never ceases to amaze me how people think they know more than the engineers who designed the engine and it's lubricating system.
It's normal when first crank to hear like dry start? Just bought same 2014 Jeep GC, It hurts me when cold start that dry, it's that way how was designed this engine on cold starts?
I just had this thought the other day. Sick of having 3 different oils for 3 different cars! 1 is 0w20, 5w20, and 5w30. I think 5w30 would be fine in all 3. Maybe 5w20 in winter though. Our 2018 Pacifica lost a lifter that took out one of the cams at 18k miles. I've run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 in it since the first oil change. It has NEVER had the recommended 10k oil change 🙄 That's like saying you can wear your underwear 2 or 3 days! It is now leaking from the plastic oil cooler and probably needs plugs and coolant flush. 87k on it now and it has a few quirks. Makes good power but I'm not very happy with it.
I always run the oil i want. Their recommendation is strictly to meet mileage. Per cafe standards. Thicker will not hurt the engine. Thinner? You might be in trouble.
We have the 3.6 in a Chrysler 300, I’ve used Penzoil ultra synthetic 5w30 from day one, I just couldn’t make myself use the 20 weight, my engine is much quitter than yours.
This entire video is 100% misinformation. The Pentastar in the 2020 is the third generation of this engine. It debuted in the 2017 Grand Cherokee. It has variable valve timing (intake and exhaust) and the oil spec was changed because of the cam phasers. Do your own research instead of listening to a guy spreading misinformation on TH-cam.
I would never run 0/20 or 0/16 in any vehicle to save a tea spoon of gas to sacrifice the moving parts in an engine , my 1991 GMC 1500 with the 5.7 has only had 10/30 since day one it has 300k on it, my wife's 22 Honda I run 5/30 syn, my 2005 blazer winter beater I run 5/30 syn , my 2015 ford GT with the 5.0 I run 5/40 syn ,and I use top tier gas , non of the mentioned vehicles have ever given me internal engine problems. change it every 5000 miles .
Jeep has the same engine as many other Dodge and Chrysler cars, trucks, and vans. My understanding is vehicles sold in Canada are sold with oil caps that show lower viscosity oil, which is because it is colder. I don't buy the claim it saves the manufacturers any money with lighter oils because Toyotas all take lighter oils and they are still the most reliable cars. I am guessing your Jeep was built and sold in Canada.
Your not doing any harm in summer i use the Castrol 5w30 european spec the one that has the BMW spec amazing stuff my honda is super quiet on the 0w30 and 5w30 castrol euro oil and the 0w30 i like it for extreme cold winters and it protects better than your north american 5w30 oils
I used to work for an oil company. And what they change is the clearances between the bearings and whatever the shaft that is moving in between them. Oil is 30 - 40% of your engine's cooling. If you put a thicker oil in an engine that has less clearances between the bearings you slow down the gallons per minute flow. This makes the oil and the engine parts that the oil cools run hotter. This causes the metals to expand more and makes clearances even closer causing the problem of gallons per minute flow to get worse increasing wear. If they were not making the clearances closer in the bearings, they would have a major problem with oil pressure drop, right? So you solve one problem and cause another. And if the engine you happen to do this on has a baby system which works off of oil pressure, and you do this which changes that pressure. You just messed up how that system works. The fix for reducing wear is to add zinc to the oil. It's not going to stop the ticking completely, but it will reduce valve train wear. A few years of the Corvette had a similar problem. The camshaft was not made from a hardened enough steel so the lobes would wear flat Zinc additive was the solution to this problem and it worked without changing oil thickness. Now, if your engine has 100,000 miles or close to it. And you live in a climate that mainly stays warm, then you could get by with thicker oil. But,if you live in a mainly cold climate, you are slowing down how fast the oil gets to your engine parts on a cold morning when it really counts. I would not go more than two steps in viscosity if you do this.
Please anyone who compares the 3.6 V6 to 5.7 hemi V8 is just ignorant and clueless one is a pushrod engine the other is not the tic on the V8 is not the same as the tic on the V6 and with that said you should be giving any advice on how to maintain a engine. So stop YALL DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GOOFBALL!
I'm 100% in agreement in doing your own oil change.
So much for 20 weight oils being "superior".
i run my pentastars with 5w-30 no matter what year model it is. unbelievable how they went from 5w-30 on the early year models then all the way down to 0w-20 in todays engines. thanks epa!
Same with hemis
Run castrol euro oil 0w30 in winter and use 5w30 castrol euro oil its way better than the north american stuff
We’ll surprise they want you to have to buy a new vehicle to get money from your pocket before they go belly up.
Euro 5. W. 40,, IS THE VERY BEST.. MAXIMUM PROTECTION@@fortnite360HZ
I run 5w30 in my 5.7 hemi. Works fantastic no cam problems on any of my hemis.
Any problems with the mds i was worried about going 5w 30
cr2158, I have a 2014 ram with 5.7 hemi. Switched to 5w30 at 55,000 miles, has 120,000 now. Zero issues with mds and never had a check engine light.
YES sir I remember that old video.... I followed your advice with my Jeep Wrangler 392 and went with the 5w 40 and valvetrain is still quiet. Great video hope this one does well too..
My 2015 3.6 VVT (bought new) specified 5W20 which I used in winter and 5W30 in summer. Never had a problem and no valve train clatter. I changed the oil and filter every six months or 5,000 miles.
How many miles
We own more than 15 of the 3.6 liter Rams and 1 Durango, '17-'19's, and they are a good balance of fuel economy and performance in a NA, non-GDI engine. No valve train issues yet, just get good at oil filter/cooler housing replacemnts.
Very good video. You may want to check/replace the oil filter after the first 500 miles. I have seen many other videos using the Restore and Protect oil, and it does such a good job that the oil filter is at the “plugged up” stage after just 300 to 500 miles.
Additionally, after watching your video, I put 5w30 oil in my 2023 Ram 1500 5.7L engine (with just 3,000 miles) and it works perfectly fine just like it should. In fact, I let the truck sit for 2 to 3 weeks in mid 30’s temperatures, stand in front of the truck while I remote start it, and there is ZERO rattling on the start up, and the MDS/ECO mode works just fine.
I have a Gladiator, I have been running 5w-30 since day one. 5w-30 is the ideal oil.
Used 5w-30 Mobile 1 full synthetic in my old 2005 F-150. 5.4l triton. Also changed my spark plugs at 30,000 miles. I’m old school when it comes to maintenance. Had over 600,000 miles on that old truck. Still running good, body not as lucky. I live in the salt belt 😢
2020 JT 3.6 just flipped 200,000 miles here.... i mostly run 0W20 Amsoil in the cold months in NW Indiana, and 5w30 Amsoil or Valvoline EP in the hot months. FWIW YMMV....
To hell with EPA/Cafe laws and regulations . My toyota asks for 0w16 , I run 5w30 , So much quieter and smoother
Run castrol european oil its even better than the north american stuff the 0w30 castrol euro oil protects better than north american 5w30
I own a 2016 ram 1500 .....I remember your video about the tick ...... running valvoline extended protection high mileage 5w30......gtl base stock .........motor runs quiet and smooth ...8 degrees pressure shoots right to 61psi cold start no tick..... motor loves the 5w30 and the great valvoline add pack..
I'm in 100% agreement with you on this. Just bought a 2020 JGC with the pentastar from a private owner. It needed an oil change. So i went out and bought 0w20 valvoline restore & protect. It does fine since its winter now but I'm not a fan of these thin watery oils. Come spring I'm going to change it to 5w30 as i think thats the best weight oil for longevity.
Yeah, I never run the thin oil since it's just for the no load EPA MPG test requirements. I've always ran the 5W-30 Synthetic or 10W-30. I know for a fact from working at Kia and owning a couple of Kia/Hyundai's that those engines would last much longer with good clean 5W-30 synthetic. About the only engine I would agree on the thin oil in are the hybrids that don't run long enough to heat the oil up very much. Thanks for the video.
147K on my wife's Grand Caravan Pentastar and no bad rockers yet. Yet.
We have a 2020 Dodge Durango GT 4wd and a 2023 Jeep Wrangler both with the 3.6L Penastar. I bought both brand new. All my new purchases get oil changes at 700 miles. The Durango has 149k miles running mostly Penzoil Ultra Platnium 0w40 with 10k oil change intervals. I noticed with the 3.6L, it has 30psi + or - 1 psi at all rpms except when the cruise control wants to slow the vehicle down. Then the oil pressure goes to 80psi. The hemi tick is from LOW oil pressure as low as 5psi. Except on the supercharged engines which maintain 30psi.
Oil viscosity is a strange thing. Our 2018 Ram 2500 4wd 6.7L Cummins beast. Has run 5w40 Rotella since that first oil change at 700 miles. The Cummins runs way quieter with the 5w40.
We live near Lancaster, CA in the scorching hot Mohave desert. While the Jeep and the Ram stay local, except for camping trips. The Durango goes to San Francisco every week. Unless I stay in town for overtime or other activities.
My 2016 Ram 1500 4wd Ecodiesel maintains oil pessure between 30-45psi. At 177k that Ecodiesel still runs quiet and smooth. I didn't check the range of oil pressure on the 2012 Dodge Journry or 2014 Ram 1500 3.6L my wife used to have.
Part of the issue of ANY brand vehicle today. Is, how the vehicle is driven, oil pressure, and luck of the draw. Some vehicles have everything perfect, while others are doomed in a short time.
2022 Dodge Challenger 3.6. Read the manual- 5w-30 is ok to use if "the other oils aren't available." Look at the bottle of synthetic oil with the specs. Chrysler MS-6395 is on the mobil 1 5w30. If the temps are above zero degrees F use it and in the long term your engine will be much happier.
I have been running 5w30 since buying my 2012 wrangler. No lifter, cam or any other failure at 150k. Now running 0w30. No issues.
I don't understand why the change. Please explain 👍😊
Move up to 5w40
Isn't that ticking the high pressure fuel injectors?
They use low pressure port injection.
@@tyloughdoesn’t matter. The injectors tick. I’ve got a brand new gladiator and it does it.
Injector noise you can tell the difference
Tick, tick, tick, tick, tick = injectors.
Click, click, click, click, click = valve train.
My 2014 ram called for 5w20 I’ve ran it since it was brand new and she’s at 199,000 and zero major issues That’s crazy that they switched to zero weight
Mine has 250,000 miles with no problems, I’m not switching
I have 3 Jeeps in the family and all of them get 5-30, the Pentastar likes it a lot better.
One thing to remember if there's sludge the restore and protect can get the filter plugged quick.
Sorta Depends how "dirty" (Sludged) your engine is. "Best" case IMO is to use VRP on a vehicle that you "know" the History/Change Interval/Abuse level. If the Oil and Filter that VRP is replacing looks like Sludge already then you will want to swap the Filter Early and keep an eye on the condition of the Oil on the Dipstick.
Valvoline claims it (VRP) won't clog the Oil Filter but that assumes a normal change interval AND an Engine not already at/over the Edge of being a Sludge Factory...
I documented the condition of my XG9018 Oil Filter for my 2014 GMC Terrain 2.4L Ecotec Engine in a couple of TH-cam (Short) Videos. At 3008 miles and its replacement (new) then a "check-up" after 114 miles... Looks "Normal"/Similar to the previous Filters... Just that it is a better quality filter then usual and relatively speaking is less likely to twist/tear with use because of reinforcement mesh that most other Cartridge Oil Filters I've used on my Ecotec engines don't have and it shows...
If it made it to 200k with 0W-20 why change?
Did you watch the video?
@ yes sir, but it still does not answer my question. If 0W20 is so bad why did it make it to 200K?
Its perfectly safe to use 5w30 there is a video with a valvoline engineer he stated it can ve used for aggressive driving and towing and warm climates
Best oil to use is Castrol european oil just so u know the castrol 0w30 euro protects better than the north american 5w30
No common sense, that's for sure. Too many people think they know better.
The pouring is the most satisfying part. What is the OCI on this engine? Does the engine consume any oil? If so, are you going to measure it and see if VRP reduces it? Thanks.
Question
Using 5w30 instead 0w20 will it storten the engine life? I've seen this engine with over 300,000 miles using 20 weight oil.
I had an '05 hemi I changed to 10w40. It had a sensor I did not know about that shut the motor down because it sensed the wrong weight oil. That ended up costinge $500 in new sensors and computer reflash so the car would run.
I have a 2014 GC. It's got 176k on the odometer. It's been a great engine. I've run 0W-20 but I religiously change the oil every 3K... never 10K. I agree when you said it's a great engine if you maintain it and especially if you change the oil every 3k.
If u live in a warm climate i'd stop using 0w20 it aint good for the engine regardless of how religiously u change it u are better off on 0w30 really depends on your winters etc but agressive driving don't ever do it on 0w20
I remember you’re other video quite well. I just bought my wife a used 23 grand Cherokee with the Pentastar a couple of weeks ago and have been debating the same dilemma.
I recently put the rod and main oil clearance argument to bed, some saying the rod & main clearances were different when they initially recommended 5w-30 for the 3.6 pentastar vs now where they recommend 0w-20 (same exact clearance specs, vvt timing insignificant…milliseconds reaction time), the main constraint is the cold flow characteristics. Given the collective machinists knowledge and the fact they don’t recommend different hydraulic tensioners…cam phasers based on viscosity, 5w is totally fine. And has anyone actually seen the difference in viscosity between a 0 and 5w? It’s relatively nothing if you look at the charts. IE, something like low tenths centistokes.
And the last number, at the 100°C viscosity…. You’d have to go up to a high 40/low 50 weight to get to the viscosity of a 5w or 0w at 40°C!
The low viscosities are there for economy. They don’t care if you get 300k miles out of your engine. They want you to consume.
As to the valvetrain issues…it won’t fix it. It will help mitigate the progression to complete failure. If you don’t have an issue, going to a 5w-30 or 5w-40 will mitigate wear in trunion bearings and timing chain links…which happens to be one reason why Euro oil specs are so stringent.
Personally, I’ve no tick or valvetrain issue. Higher viscosity WILL give a wider margin in internal extreme engine conditions. Specifically, a higher HTHS, High Temp High Shear rating in that regard. That’s the first line of defense, viscosity. The second line is Anti-Wear additives which protect when there IS contact. I’d rather not get to that point. That’s why I personally run 5w-40 Euro spec synthetic. 5w-30 would be a step in the right direction as well.
All this said, many engines will be just fine on the recommended viscosity. The problem is if YOUR engine is an outlier on spec/tolerance stack up/extreme operating conditions. That’s where the higher viscosity/HTHS will offer a wider margin of safety.
Good post. You’re missing a big point. If you’re this in depth, as a consumer, then YOU NEED to run oil analyses and create some repeatable data points. The reason these engines IMO see roller failures is because the majority of them idle. Too much. People need to be ok with pressing down on the foot feed and letting the tach see 5-6 k often.
I did alot of research on this very thing. I came across a thread where an engineer for this very engine said when start stop became a thing they coated the bearings and made changes. That's where I stop and wonder if I should.
I just switched over to 0-30 in my JT. I ran an oil analysis on the 0-20 and will do the same on the 0-30. My quick impression ... the engine seems to run quieter and smoother. I've also noticed that the tensioner holds pressure better as well with less clackity clack on start up. I'm still running the 0-20 in my wifes JL and will probably switch that one over as well.
im looking to switch to 0w-30 on my jk. how many miles have you ran it with that oil? and how is cold start up?
My wife has a 2016 Dodge Charger with the 3.6
80,000 miles so far without issue. But starting at about 60,000 i started using 5W30 in it instead of the recommended 5W20.
It overall seems quiter & happier. MPG has not changed any either.
I will continue using it
Im using castrol edge 5w30 A3 Euro in my 3.6 ram it's thicker at 11.9 cst at 212F HAs real high Zinc and phosphorous.
My 17 versa started a timing chain noise on startup after the miles increased to 120k I used 10w30 instead of 5w30 and no more noise because in Texas most of the year is warm 😊
I never use any oil below a 5w30 in everything I own. My wife has a Toyota 4Runner and it has had 5w30 from the first oil change. The lower oil weight is being pushed by the EPA.
My sister got my wifes 2011 Durango,it had 166k,and I only used 10w30,changed oil every 4k.Original plugs still. My new Toyota hybrids use 0w-16! The new 6b oils are thin but have a robust additive pack. Using 10-30 on my hybrid would damage it,because of pressure dynamics. People in the USA always choose big numbers,use what the cap says,change your oil on time,you will not have any problems.
Yeah 0w20 is thin and that's why I do my changes every 3k. I use an oil extractor and my changes are around $20 each time.
BTW if you catch that tick early it's a $9 part and I've watched videos of people doing it themselves in the afternoon. With that done you could potentially get another 100k out of that motor. The bottom end is a solid design and build.
Good call using the higher viscosity oil. It will better protect the engine from wear. Fuel savings doesn't mean much if your engines don't last...it's a fools errand, and consumers pay the price (as you mentioned). I have 227,000 miles on a 2006 Toyota Matrix using an API approved full synthetic 5w30 with 5k OCI and OEM filter. My car actually got a service update saying it could use 0w20, not gonna happen.
Depends on your environment. The 0w20 is probably superior in super cold temps, preventing dry starts for prolonged periods. The 5w30 thrives in warmer environments at the cost of reduced power due to the VVT system working better with faster flowiing oils. I personally prefer the 5w20 in cold and warm environments.
0w does Not cling ,dripping off parts. Dry starting while it quickly gets there. 5w stays on parts. Still quickly getting there. 80,000 mile engine burning oil , 100,000 mile engine failures on 0w with 10,000 mile oil changes. Go figure.
I USE 5W20 in My 3.6 Ram,0W20 in my 3.6. Jeep. Change oil every 2500! Use mfg recommend oil. No problems
As a trained engine builder, any power loss is not due to vvt. It would be due to windage in the crankcase. The difference in the viscosities you mentioned wouldn’t even be measurable…milliseconds. The final camshaft timing relative to crank wouldn’t be different, so no power difference factor there.
Yes, it needs a thicker oil, I agree. But, you most likely not hearing the same thing. These have same issue as Ford does with the wipers wearing out in the phasers. Putting a thicker oil in will give you either more time, or save them to begin with. I cant say for sure on the second, but it does seem the oil recommended is truely below grade for its needs and is what is causing the wear, imo. I just know, that so far, I have been able to buy more time and reduce VVT off target error by using 10-30. I wouldnt go much heavier than that tho due to tight bearing clearance. On a looser engine circling the drain I'd go up to 15-40.
The key here is 4-5K oil changes, good oil, maybe a little longer intervals Amsoil or equivalents. That being said in my opinion i think all the ticking noises COULD be subpar parts supplied to FCA.
So, you have 200,000 miles using 0W-20 and now you think the oil is not good enough? Huh.
Bingo
did you REALLY have to remind us that "the 2000s" was 15 years ago?? 😪
Lol
Of the 10 million engines made since 2011, about 1% supposedly have faulty rocker arms which fail prematurely. The ticking is usually that issue which ain't gonna be fixed by changing oil viscosity... $2-3K in engine work will fix it...
how's your oil cooler, is it leaking?
I own a 2021 wrangler with 3.6 pentastar. It calls for 0w20 oil, the jeep has 95k miles. This will be the third time using 5w30 oil. I do hear the difference in noise level coming from the engine but l have not seen any change in oil psig or mpgs. I drive 2400-3000 miles every month mostly highway miles.
I have 2 vans and run them both on 5-30 syn, I believe they were supposed to run 5-30 but do to economy ratings they went to 5-20
I run 5 30 synthetic in my vehicles, never had a problem
My v8 started with a 5w30 spec. It now has a 0w20 spec. Looking to change it back to original spec oil
Man doesn't know oil. 0w20 is still 20 grade. People run 5w30 and still have lifter issues. Owners manual states you can run 5w30 in a pinch. 0 in 0w20 is winter specs. Look at a chart and difference between 0w20 and 5w30 is minimal.
Did the same thing with my 2015 Honda Accord, sounds much quieter with 5W-20 , Honda calls for 0 W-20.
I use 5w20.
Just so u know 5w30 is safe to be used on any car that uses 0w20 also valvoline engineers said so for hard driving towing and warm climates its perfectly fine i actually use 0w30 european castrol in a 2016 honda crv which calls for 0w20 witj no issues also the 5w30 european oil castrol in summer the euro oils have a better oil film strength than your north american stuff also thin oils were made to get better fuel economy according to valvoline engineers
Buddy i have been using “Shell Gas Truck 5W-30 “ in my wifes 3.6 for 140,000 miles and engine is quite as a mouse . Runs perfect and doesnt burn a single drop of oil in 5.000 miles between oil changes .. now shell doesnt make the shell gas truck oil anymore , so Shell and Penzoil ( same company) said use penzoil 5w-30 ultra platinum in its place. So next oil change it and my jeep will get the penzoil .. as i just used the last 5 quart jug of the shell i had in my Jeep..
Penzoil is garbage,,,the Shell gas is fine not the penzoil
u are better off using Castrol 5w30 European oil has a higher VI index than North American oils BMW spec I use it no issues never add oil another good one is Amsoil 5w30 Euro oil....Penzoil is garbage lot of bad reviews lately and known to cause leaks
Castrol edge 5w30 A3 Euro is close spec to Rotella gas truck. The Pennzoil ultra is thinner when warm, lower zinc and phosphorus too.
@leecrumble3921 zinc protects the engine its excellent oil people get worried about that makes no sense a catalytic is cheaper than engine replacement
@leecrumble3921 also its excellent on gdi engines even recommends it
I've been doing the debate with my 2014 ram about going to 5w30 myself.I only have 64k on it so I hope I don't have to much damage done to the top end
Not a great idea. The variable valve timing on these engines is designed for the specified oil. It never ceases to amaze me how people think they know more than the engineers who designed the engine and it's lubricating system.
Agree. I'm staying with 0W-20 (am using Mobil 1).
-- BR
I've ran 5w30 in my 18 jeep wrangler jk since new 126,000 miles no issues great engine don't fall for it needs thin oil bullish**
It's normal when first crank to hear like dry start? Just bought same 2014 Jeep GC, It hurts me when cold start that dry, it's that way how was designed this engine on cold starts?
I just had this thought the other day. Sick of having 3 different oils for 3 different cars! 1 is 0w20, 5w20, and 5w30. I think 5w30 would be fine in all 3. Maybe 5w20 in winter though.
Our 2018 Pacifica lost a lifter that took out one of the cams at 18k miles. I've run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 in it since the first oil change. It has NEVER had the recommended 10k oil change 🙄 That's like saying you can wear your underwear 2 or 3 days!
It is now leaking from the plastic oil cooler and probably needs plugs and coolant flush. 87k on it now and it has a few quirks. Makes good power but I'm not very happy with it.
I always run the oil i want. Their recommendation is strictly to meet mileage. Per cafe standards. Thicker will not hurt the engine. Thinner? You might be in trouble.
We have the 3.6 in a Chrysler 300, I’ve used Penzoil ultra synthetic 5w30 from day one, I just couldn’t make myself use the 20 weight, my engine is much quitter than yours.
This entire video is 100% misinformation. The Pentastar in the 2020 is the third generation of this engine. It debuted in the 2017 Grand Cherokee. It has variable valve timing (intake and exhaust) and the oil spec was changed because of the cam phasers. Do your own research instead of listening to a guy spreading misinformation on TH-cam.
Same here 👍
They feel that the lower the viscosity the better the fuel mileage
I would never run 0/20 or 0/16 in any vehicle to save a tea spoon of gas to sacrifice the moving parts in an engine , my 1991 GMC 1500 with the 5.7 has only had 10/30 since day one it has 300k on it, my wife's 22 Honda I run 5/30 syn, my 2005 blazer winter beater I run 5/30 syn , my 2015 ford GT with the 5.0 I run 5/40 syn ,and I use top tier gas , non of the mentioned vehicles have ever given me internal engine problems. change it every 5000 miles .
Jeep has the same engine as many other Dodge and Chrysler cars, trucks, and vans. My understanding is vehicles sold in Canada are sold with oil caps that show lower viscosity oil, which is because it is colder. I don't buy the claim it saves the manufacturers any money with lighter oils because Toyotas all take lighter oils and they are still the most reliable cars. I am guessing your Jeep was built and sold in Canada.
Your not doing any harm in summer i use the Castrol 5w30 european spec the one that has the BMW spec amazing stuff my honda is super quiet on the 0w30 and 5w30 castrol euro oil and the 0w30 i like it for extreme cold winters and it protects better than your north american 5w30 oils
Good to see you don’t buy one quart. They rip people off that way.
People who think they’re engineers are always good for a laugh.
0w30/5w30 euro or 0w40 would be ideal. For both.
Baruk Hashem!
יהוה למבול ישב וישב יהוה מלך לעולם
I agree, 5w30 is a far better option.
I used to work for an oil company. And what they change is the clearances between the bearings and whatever the shaft that is moving in between them.
Oil is 30 - 40% of your engine's cooling. If you put a thicker oil in an engine that has less clearances between the bearings you slow down the gallons per minute flow.
This makes the oil and the engine parts that the oil cools run hotter. This causes the metals to expand more and makes clearances even closer causing the problem of gallons per minute flow to get worse increasing wear.
If they were not making the clearances closer in the bearings, they would have a major problem with oil pressure drop, right?
So you solve one problem and cause another. And if the engine you happen to do this on has a baby system which works off of oil pressure, and you do this which changes that pressure. You just messed up how that system works.
The fix for reducing wear is to add zinc to the oil. It's not going to stop the ticking completely, but it will reduce valve train wear.
A few years of the Corvette had a similar problem. The camshaft was not made from a hardened enough steel so the lobes would wear flat
Zinc additive was the solution to this problem and it worked without changing oil thickness.
Now, if your engine has 100,000 miles or close to it. And you live in a climate that mainly stays warm, then you could get by with thicker oil. But,if you live in a mainly cold climate, you are slowing down how fast the oil gets to your engine parts on a cold morning when it really counts. I would not go more than two steps in viscosity if you do this.
Hey Buddy the Boss filter made my jeep tic at start up. I went back to my Wix and tic went away ..Wix platinum filter also uses synthetic media.
all that FCA/Stellantis plastic... I rid my family of our 2018 Unlimited Jk at 51K - junk
Why not 20w50? That's what I'm running.
Please anyone who compares the 3.6 V6 to 5.7 hemi V8 is just ignorant and clueless one is a pushrod engine the other is not the tic on the V8 is not the same as the tic on the V6 and with that said you should be giving any advice on how to maintain a engine. So stop
YALL DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GOOFBALL!
🤔
0/20 Amsoil❤
friggin Stellantis junk
Apparently oil change intervals weren't done properly on this engine