Andy, your videos are wonderfully detailed, clear camera and lighting, along with your descriptions! Thank you for all that you put into your videos ❤️
😃You are very kind to say this, especially about the lighting. Thank you. 🙏 There was a time I was so sick I did not think I'd be making videos again and I gave away all my auxiliary lighting to a school. I miss that lighting now, but my toughest critic, (spouse) tells me the video looks OK and I never argue with her. I appreciate you watching my channel.
Thank you, Terry. In my next life, I'll have a fancy camera, but so far in this one I'm getting by with a $199 Canon. I appreciate you watching and happy fishing.
I recently found your channel and love your videos. You explain things so well that even I can understand them. I also love the way you insert photos to help us understand better. Thank you so much for sharing your work on this machine. Even though I don't have a 466, I'm learning a lot about how sewing machines work.
Well thanks for such a nice comment and I appreciate you calling out my photos. When I first started watching other videos I couldn't see a darn thing they were doing. I appreciate you watching my channel and if you go to my home page you can find 591 more videos about vintage sewing machines. Take care
1968 to 1970 machine with timing belt and plastic gears. A foreshadowing of modern autos with timing belts that last 100,000 miles and plastic everything else. Thanks for showing how this gear is changed. Again, a very concise easy to understand video. This wouldn't be an easy job to go into cold.
Thank you Ralph. I tried to show that there's different approaches to get the old gear out in the new gear in because everybody can kind of do their own thing once they get to that point. And hopefully nobody's going to comment or email me that they can't get the old gear off cuz it's stuck to the shafts haha. I appreciate your comment
What an informative video! Both my 418 and 457 have no oil hole on the front of the machine to oil that top shaft bushing. I would think it is important to keep this bushing oiled, and I wonder why Singer did not drill the hole in the front to allow this. My 457 shows in the user manual to somehow get a drop of oil in between the gear and the top bushing from the top of the machine. I would drip oil all over the gear itself if I tried that. Well, now I’m going to turn my machine upside down, and drip oil just like you dripped WD40. Now, once or twice a year, I will oil this bushing with the upside-down method. I replaced the upper gears in both machines a while ago using your videos, so now I’m just into maintaining these machines, and I am enjoying seeing the similarities and differences with the 466.
I too have puzzled over that missing oil port. When I fixed or sold the 457K & 413K I showed the owners how I would "Upside Down Oil" that top busing. It takes a little longer but not as long as replacing a ruined gear. About 2 maybe 3 drops so it won't seep past the top of the gear. I tried being oh-so careful oiling from the top and using the little tube but would still get some oil on the gear teeth. The missing oil port is a mystery we'll never solve, I think. That's for the comment, Carole, Regards to Roger, and take care.
Hello Andy, It’s great to have you back! Nice video, but I have a question about why you didn’t replace the horizontal gear? More than likely it would it also crack and need replacing in the near future? I would expect that the horizontal gear is just as old as the vertical gear. Thank you.
Thanks. I've researched the gear on the horizontal shaft. I've never found a bad one. You must remove most of the parts connected to that shaft to replace that gear, then reinstall them and set the factory specs on them. It's quite a job. There are a few theories as to why that gear seems to always be in good condition while the top gear on the vertical shaft is always shot. One is that the gear is made of a different type of plastic. Another is that the top gear runs extremely hot b/c the gear base sits on the top of a bushing and while the is an oil port fo inside the bushing to lubricate the vertical shaft, no or not enough oil migrates upward to lubricate the top of the bushing that the gear base rests on. Finally, the theory that some people misinterpret the instruction manual, or don't know any better, and put oil on the gear. I think the answer is a combination of these ideas. I have seen gears that are still creamy colored with all the teeth gone and many gears like my video where the broken apart gear is beige, brown, or even dark brown (I think from oil) This is plastic from 50+ years ago, and different from today's types. Anyway, I did not replace the gear you ask about b/c I never had a bad one and after inspection, it looked almost new without any stress cracks or chipped teeth. There are later models with the 4 gears on the bottom instead of pulleys and belt and they are a different plastic type still, and I would for sure replace all of those when the first one fails (usually the hook gear) FYI The part number for the horizontal gear you ask about is 155818. In the past, I could not even find one for sale vs a dozen sellers of the 155819 gear in this video. Thanks for an interesting question, Debora, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks your response. You really did your homework! If vendors are not selling replacement horizontal gears, that tells you a lot! I am amazed to learn something new all the time. 😉
@@deboramunoz1084 You're welcome and I agree about learning. I really started learning a lot when I started making videos about how to maintain these machines. They're fascinating in their own way and it's a very enjoyable hobby
I can't find a manual either. Not surprising though. It was made in Japan and could be based on the Singer Model 15 concept. I only work on SInger but even my manual sources tell me you'd be lucky to find a manual for the 190. Maybe try the 336 or 535 later models in the hopes some of the features would apply to the 190. The last guy said, "Don't bother looking. A very nice machine, but no documentation".
Thank you so much for this! I’m a complete newbie. I have a fashion mate 257 that doesn’t have faceplates to remove. Any idea how to get to the gear on a model like this? 😅 I also don’t see a screw on it, just a small hole which I’m guessing may be for an Allen wrench?
Welcome to Andy Tube. I never worked on that model but I believe the "small hole" is a Roll Pin, not a screw of any type. Roll pins are pressed in or punched out to remove. Your 257 replacement gear comes attached to a new vertical shaft. Since there is no face plate I'm thinking you must remove the gear/shaft out the top of the arm after removing many other parts. Some viewers have told me they drilled a hole on the back of the machine large enough to get a punch or screwdriver onto the old gear and then onto the screw for the new gear. I think if you have a screw or Allen screw on your gear it was already replaced once before. You can take a look at this guide that Terry wrote for replacing that gear. He has 30+ years working on the machines here is the page to his guide store.tandtrepair.com/252-257-tvgearguide.html He will usually respond to emails so you could ask for a brief explanation of what is in the guide. Tell him you are new at this. You can buy the shaft/gear or just the gear at several; online stores. Here is one I have used for many years: www.vintagesingerparts.com/search?type=product%2Cpage%2Carticle&options%5Bprefix%5D=last&q=445491-S&filter.p.product_type= Shop around if you like, Terry may sell the parts also. When I mention removing parts up on the arm I'm thinking handwheel, zigzag parts needle bar presser bar, etc. so you can slide the main arm shaft out of the way to lift the shaft/gear up and out. Yuck. I think that's why some have told me they drilled a hole in the pack and removed the feed regulator plate (stitch length) parts on the front to get access and manipulate the gear out and in,
I’m besides myself. I have a Singer Stylist 476 I’m trying to save. It’s the top gear, just as in your video here. My problem is removing the front Stitch Length dial/knob on the 476. Is there a trick to pulling this off? I’ve been wrangling and struggling with this silly thing for hours. What is the secret? This intransigent knob is keeping me from removing the panel so I can get to that set screw on the broken top gear. SOS! Please help! Thank you.
Yes, there is a trick I believe. Model 476 is the lower-end sister to the class 478 model, 478, 477, 476. On my 466 you turn the dial to zero, but the Service Manual for 478 says you turn the dial to between the #4 button hole setting and the zero. I assume that lines up the inner parts for removal. You can buy the manual for $6.99 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/ Also, The Aussie Repair Guy has a 3-video Playlist for working on model 478 that may help if you need it. th-cam.com/video/sz08harYlSI/w-d-xo.html, th-cam.com/video/KPcWrETKjA8/w-d-xo.html, th-cam.com/video/Yua67TeLUCE/w-d-xo.html To be clear, there is no separate service manual for model 476 as it is the "more simple" model of the 478, and repairmen just used the 478 manual for all three machines. Thanks for saving the machine.
Andy, I am excited to see that you are making videos again. I have a question. I know about 5 years ago you did some videos on the singer 338 sewing machine. I am am beginning to watch them since I recently purchased one. I have oiled it and greased it some however, I find that the foot control has only one speed that is extremely fast. Is there a way to adjust this or do you know if I can purchase another foot control for it that would let me make it go slower. I just can't sew that fast and get it right. Thanks so much for your advice.
Thanks for keeping that machine in service. A nice model for home sewing and crafting. There are a couple things that can cause your foot pedal to act that way, assuming it is the original "button" style controller. Inside some pedals, especially in the UK and parts of the EU, there is a device added to prevent interference with TV/RADIO in the home. It's a capacitor that helps prevent that. It is usually a tube-shaped or coin-like device, silver or white mostly, that is wired in between the two screws where the cord ends are screwed down. That device, if you find one, can be removed as it is not needed these days. When the device fails it fails closed meaning it just lets full power go thru to the motor. Sometimes that will happen by itself and the motor will run fast without you even pushing on the pedal button. Like a ghost is what people say. Many times smoke will come out as the carbon resistor stacks in the pedals start overheating and burning up and fires have been known to start. Take it out if found. If there is not a capacitor then the control spring may be stuck or the levers inside are out of adjustment, etc. It's like 50 years old now and may have never been cleaned and adjusted. I have a couple videos showing how to open the pedal and work on it. I made them during my model 337 playlist and you have the sister machine (fancier) model 338 so the videos apply to you. Here are the links to the videos: th-cam.com/video/gFIB9jR10fA/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/mKdi2DWTu6c/w-d-xo.html I hope these will be of help to you. If anything in the videos seems confusing or incomplete, I do have an older playlist of 8 videos for the pedal that goes a little slower and into even more detail. You can find that playlist at this link: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html I'm glad you asked, be safe please, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for your response. I will watch your videos and open mine back up to see if I find the capacitor. I love your videos.
Andy, your videos are wonderfully detailed, clear camera and lighting, along with your descriptions! Thank you for all that you put into your videos ❤️
😃You are very kind to say this, especially about the lighting. Thank you. 🙏 There was a time I was so sick I did not think I'd be making videos again and I gave away all my auxiliary lighting to a school. I miss that lighting now, but my toughest critic, (spouse) tells me the video looks OK and I never argue with her. I appreciate you watching my channel.
Those still pictures that you inserted in your video ;made an interesting and informative video even better; a worthwhile addition.
Thank you, Terry. In my next life, I'll have a fancy camera, but so far in this one I'm getting by with a $199 Canon. I appreciate you watching and happy fishing.
You are awesome. Excellent video brother!! I really enjoy you videos. Thanks for posting. Love to hear your chuckles. You are great teacher.
" you are a great teacher"... Man, that statement means a lot to me and I appreciate it very much. Kevin
I will wait for part 3. Wonderful video
Thank you, Carol. I appreciate you watching my channel.
Great video. The close up pics really helped. Good explanations too !
Thank you very much. I appreciate your comment
I recently found your channel and love your videos. You explain things so well that even I can understand them. I also love the way you insert photos to help us understand better. Thank you so much for sharing your work on this machine. Even though I don't have a 466, I'm learning a lot about how sewing machines work.
Well thanks for such a nice comment and I appreciate you calling out my photos. When I first started watching other videos I couldn't see a darn thing they were doing. I appreciate you watching my channel and if you go to my home page you can find 591 more videos about vintage sewing machines. Take care
1968 to 1970 machine with timing belt and plastic gears. A foreshadowing of modern autos with timing belts that last 100,000 miles and plastic everything else. Thanks for showing how this gear is changed. Again, a very concise easy to understand video. This wouldn't be an easy job to go into cold.
Thank you Ralph. I tried to show that there's different approaches to get the old gear out in the new gear in because everybody can kind of do their own thing once they get to that point. And hopefully nobody's going to comment or email me that they can't get the old gear off cuz it's stuck to the shafts haha. I appreciate your comment
I replaced the top gear on my 457 after watching Andy’s great video.
Well thanks very much Margaret. I'm glad to hear that for me the gear on this 466 was a little bit easier to do. I appreciate you watching my channel
Wonderful video! Thank you so much! Waiting on part 3!😊
Thank you, Jacqueline. Friday @ midnight.
What an informative video! Both my 418 and 457 have no oil hole on the front of the machine to oil that top shaft bushing. I would think it is important to keep this bushing oiled, and I wonder why Singer did not drill the hole in the front to allow this. My 457 shows in the user manual to somehow get a drop of oil in between the gear and the top bushing from the top of the machine. I would drip oil all over the gear itself if I tried that. Well, now I’m going to turn my machine upside down, and drip oil just like you dripped WD40. Now, once or twice a year, I will oil this bushing with the upside-down method. I replaced the upper gears in both machines a while ago using your videos, so now I’m just into maintaining these machines, and I am enjoying seeing the similarities and differences with the 466.
I too have puzzled over that missing oil port. When I fixed or sold the 457K & 413K I showed the owners how I would "Upside Down Oil" that top busing. It takes a little longer but not as long as replacing a ruined gear. About 2 maybe 3 drops so it won't seep past the top of the gear. I tried being oh-so careful oiling from the top and using the little tube but would still get some oil on the gear teeth. The missing oil port is a mystery we'll never solve, I think. That's for the comment, Carole, Regards to Roger, and take care.
Thank you Andy!
😃👍
Hello Andy,
It’s great to have you back! Nice video, but I have a question about why you didn’t replace the horizontal gear? More than likely it would it also crack and need replacing in the near future? I would expect that the horizontal gear is just as old as the vertical gear. Thank you.
Thanks. I've researched the gear on the horizontal shaft. I've never found a bad one.
You must remove most of the parts connected to that shaft to replace that gear, then reinstall them and set the factory specs on them. It's quite a job.
There are a few theories as to why that gear seems to always be in good condition while the top gear on the vertical shaft is always shot. One is that the gear is made of a different type of plastic.
Another is that the top gear runs extremely hot b/c the gear base sits on the top of a bushing and while the is an oil port fo inside the bushing to lubricate the vertical shaft, no or not enough oil migrates upward to lubricate the top of the bushing that the gear base rests on.
Finally, the theory that some people misinterpret the instruction manual, or don't know any better, and put oil on the gear. I think the answer is a combination of these ideas. I have seen gears that are still creamy colored with all the teeth gone and many gears like my video where the broken apart gear is beige, brown, or even dark brown (I think from oil) This is plastic from 50+ years ago, and different from today's types.
Anyway, I did not replace the gear you ask about b/c I never had a bad one and after inspection, it looked almost new without any stress cracks or chipped teeth.
There are later models with the 4 gears on the bottom instead of pulleys and belt and they are a different plastic type still, and I would for sure replace all of those when the first one fails (usually the hook gear)
FYI The part number for the horizontal gear you ask about is 155818. In the past, I could not even find one for sale vs a dozen sellers of the 155819 gear in this video.
Thanks for an interesting question, Debora, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks your response. You really did your homework! If vendors are not selling replacement horizontal gears, that tells you a lot! I am amazed to learn something new all the time. 😉
@@deboramunoz1084 You're welcome and I agree about learning. I really started learning a lot when I started making videos about how to maintain these machines. They're fascinating in their own way and it's a very enjoyable hobby
Hello Andy I have a imperial zig zag DE Luxe model # 190 can't find a manual
I can't find a manual either. Not surprising though. It was made in Japan and could be based on the Singer Model 15 concept. I only work on SInger but even my manual sources tell me you'd be lucky to find a manual for the 190. Maybe try the 336 or 535 later models in the hopes some of the features would apply to the 190. The last guy said, "Don't bother looking. A very nice machine, but no documentation".
wonderful video.
Thanks, pop! 👍
Thank you so much for this! I’m a complete newbie. I have a fashion mate 257 that doesn’t have faceplates to remove. Any idea how to get to the gear on a model like this? 😅 I also don’t see a screw on it, just a small hole which I’m guessing may be for an Allen wrench?
Welcome to Andy Tube. I never worked on that model but I believe the "small hole" is a Roll Pin, not a screw of any type. Roll pins are pressed in or punched out to remove. Your 257 replacement gear comes attached to a new vertical shaft. Since there is no face plate I'm thinking you must remove the gear/shaft out the top of the arm after removing many other parts. Some viewers have told me they drilled a hole on the back of the machine large enough to get a punch or screwdriver onto the old gear and then onto the screw for the new gear. I think if you have a screw or Allen screw on your gear it was already replaced once before. You can take a look at this guide that Terry wrote for replacing that gear. He has 30+ years working on the machines here is the page to his guide store.tandtrepair.com/252-257-tvgearguide.html He will usually respond to emails so you could ask for a brief explanation of what is in the guide. Tell him you are new at this. You can buy the shaft/gear or just the gear at several; online stores. Here is one I have used for many years: www.vintagesingerparts.com/search?type=product%2Cpage%2Carticle&options%5Bprefix%5D=last&q=445491-S&filter.p.product_type= Shop around if you like, Terry may sell the parts also. When I mention removing parts up on the arm I'm thinking handwheel, zigzag parts needle bar presser bar, etc. so you can slide the main arm shaft out of the way to lift the shaft/gear up and out. Yuck. I think that's why some have told me they drilled a hole in the pack and removed the feed regulator plate (stitch length) parts on the front to get access and manipulate the gear out and in,
I’m besides myself. I have a Singer Stylist 476 I’m trying to save. It’s the top gear, just as in your video here.
My problem is removing the front Stitch Length dial/knob on the 476. Is there a trick to pulling this off?
I’ve been wrangling and struggling with this silly thing for hours. What is the secret?
This intransigent knob is keeping me from removing the panel so I can get to that set screw on the broken top gear.
SOS! Please help! Thank you.
Yes, there is a trick I believe. Model 476 is the lower-end sister to the class 478 model, 478, 477, 476. On my 466 you turn the dial to zero, but the Service Manual for 478 says you turn the dial to between the #4 button hole setting and the zero. I assume that lines up the inner parts for removal. You can buy the manual for $6.99 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/
Also, The Aussie Repair Guy has a 3-video Playlist for working on model 478 that may help if you need it. th-cam.com/video/sz08harYlSI/w-d-xo.html, th-cam.com/video/KPcWrETKjA8/w-d-xo.html, th-cam.com/video/Yua67TeLUCE/w-d-xo.html
To be clear, there is no separate service manual for model 476 as it is the "more simple" model of the 478, and repairmen just used the 478 manual for all three machines. Thanks for saving the machine.
Thank you!!!
Always a pleasure and I appreciate you watching my video.
Замечательная работа , у вас всегда всьо получается. 🔥🩵💛👍
так сказать, и спасибо за просмотр.
Andy, I am excited to see that you are making videos again. I have a question. I know about 5 years ago you did some videos on the singer 338 sewing machine. I am am beginning to watch them since I recently purchased one. I have oiled it and greased it some however, I find that the foot control has only one speed that is extremely fast. Is there a way to adjust this or do you know if I can purchase another foot control for it that would let me make it go slower. I just can't sew that fast and get it right. Thanks so much for your advice.
Thanks for keeping that machine in service. A nice model for home sewing and crafting.
There are a couple things that can cause your foot pedal to act that way, assuming it is the original "button" style controller. Inside some pedals, especially in the UK and parts of the EU, there is a device added to prevent interference with TV/RADIO in the home. It's a capacitor that helps prevent that. It is usually a tube-shaped or coin-like device, silver or white mostly, that is wired in between the two screws where the cord ends are screwed down. That device, if you find one, can be removed as it is not needed these days. When the device fails it fails closed meaning it just lets full power go thru to the motor. Sometimes that will happen by itself and the motor will run fast without you even pushing on the pedal button. Like a ghost is what people say. Many times smoke will come out as the carbon resistor stacks in the pedals start overheating and burning up and fires have been known to start. Take it out if found.
If there is not a capacitor then the control spring may be stuck or the levers inside are out of adjustment, etc. It's like 50 years old now and may have never been cleaned and adjusted. I have a couple videos showing how to open the pedal and work on it. I made them during my model 337 playlist and you have the sister machine (fancier) model 338 so the videos apply to you. Here are the links to the videos: th-cam.com/video/gFIB9jR10fA/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/mKdi2DWTu6c/w-d-xo.html
I hope these will be of help to you. If anything in the videos seems confusing or incomplete, I do have an older playlist of 8 videos for the pedal that goes a little slower and into even more detail. You can find that playlist at this link: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
I'm glad you asked, be safe please, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for your response. I will watch your videos and open mine back up to see if I find the capacitor. I love your videos.
@@TheUsertobe thanks very much and good luck. I hope it works out for you
@@andytubesewing1953 As much info in the comments as in the video! Thanks for being so willing to answer questions, in detail.
@@crowznest438 Always willing to help anyone trying to save a vintage machine. Thanks for the comment, and for watching my channel.
Halfway there!
Nicely done 💯
❤😊
😃🙏