Andy, Andy, Andy.. What are you doing? No need to take the 'stack' apart. It's already a tightly assembled unit. Just give the entire thing a good cleaning as is... What you are showing is a waste of effort.
Apnj, Apnj, Apnj. 🤣🤣 Thank you! 🙏 I always get a good laugh when a No Name Pine Rider with ZERO content on their channel tries telling me how to work on my machines. My first really good laugh in 2023 thanks to you. I'll have to pin your comment to the top of the videos comment section so my other viewers can have a good laugh, too. Thanks again, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 your most welcome. But remember you are showing other people unnessary effort and complications with your complete disassembly. Keep things simple....👍👍
@@andytubesewing1953 Oh YES it is Necesary when I disassembled the cam stack and found the GUNK in between. We Who Follow Andy like to do things Properly! Thank you Andy!
Hi Andy, please count me as yet another person who has found your videos and teaching style absolutely invaluable. I truly appreciate and thank you for sharing so much knowledge to help keep these wonderful, high quality machines in service. Only because of you I managed to resurrect and begin a new life for an abandoned yet beautiful 401a I found in a coma from neglect.
"...found in a coma..." hehe, I love it! Thank you for saving that machine. A great model for any kind of sewing. I'm happy you found my channel. Take care.
You sure picked a nice machine for your first one. Congratulations! I'm happy to hear that the video helped you and you certainly can do any and all maintenance on that machine. Thanks for the nice comment and have a great 2024
I live all the way in Jamaica, can't seem to find any parts, that little thing you push, when doing the bobbin tread is crystalize. don't know we're to get one, I visited a singer store, no luck. Thanks Andy. I really like the machine. Have a great 2024.yourself. good job 👍.
@@choalette SHOP TEMU for 3pc vintage sewing machine rubber ring: www.temu.com/search_result.html?search_key=3ps%20vintage%20sewing%20machine%20rubber%20ring&search_method=user $0.78 for 3 pieces.
This was very useful video, at first i was afraid of all these gears and levers but after removing stack it makes sense. Simple and complicated at the same time, very clever those Singer engineers.
So many parts that have to move together just right, and they only had slide rulers back then and no CAD software! How did they do it? Maybe they were descendants of the Pyramid designers? Thanks for watching.
I've been fascinated with how these machines were made. In this model the camstack system driving arm and vibrating bracket weigh more than some modern machines
I just got a 401a and I’m so excited to start sewing on her!! She is in really good condition but needs some cleaning. After watching several of your videos I’m ready to get busy giving her some TLC. Thank you so much! Not only are your videos great instruction but you are very fun and interesting as well. Perfect combination!!
You sure picked a nice model. You will find it rewarding to clean the machine and get it back to its original condition so it works well. I'm glad you found my channel and thanks for leaving a comment.
I hope you are well. I can not thank you enough for doing these vids...you have made me a repair warrior! I have a collection now. One 466 I bought for $10...that poor baby was in awful condition...your 400 series vids helped me save it. And my 2 500A's, (Thelma and Louise) thank you too!
Thelma & Louise, I love it! I have 500+ videos on my playlist page, grouped by model number. Thanks for saving those machines! It can be a never ending hobby with all the Singers made over the last 100 years. Take care.
Hey Andy, I have yet another playlist of yours I get to watch. I found a 401A this weekend for $20 with cams and other accessories in a case. It was fairly clean but needed the usual minor cleaning done. I totally forgot to grease the hand wheel and where it meets the motor so I’ve gotta go back in there and do that. Now after watching this, I may go in there and remove and clean the cams. So therapeutic, I love it. Can’t wait to finish watching what else you cover on this model. Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge.
Wow that's a great bargain you got there. This model is a little complicated and lots of little parts down in there, but taking a step at a time and cleaning everything up. You'll probably never have to do that again. By the way, if you find my Regina model 403a playlist, it has a lot of the same parts just in case you come across something I don't cover in the trouble. 401a, hope you're having a good holiday weekend
Thanks, Andy. It WAS a lot of fun for me. It’s12:05 AM and I’m having a hard time convincing myself that the sixty year old cam stack can stay dirty until the morning. You are the best!
Thank you, but get your rest. It's going to be a beautiful day for cam stack cleaning tomorrow. Trust me, and please stop by my channel again. Take Care.
Another great video! I picked up a 500A from 1961 at the thrift store and while it would straight stitch, the motor couldn't rotate the cam stack in any other mode. I figured the cam stack had never been cleaned. I had to apply Kroil penetrating oil to separate the gear from the stack. The cams were so dirty I thought they were black metal! After Krudkutter in a machine, I applied Autosol metal polisher, and I thought they were fine. Then I rubbed one with 1000 grit sandpaper and was amazed how a bright metal appeared! Of course, once you have one nice side bright, you realize you have 13 more sides and the edges to polish... I didn't put my machine in a bath, and everything else is clean, so I will clean out the worm gear and then I should be done with the cleaning, oiling, greasing. I'm hoping that will help the motor have the power to turn the stack.
Thank you. It sounds like you found a real mess there. I admire your fortitude for sanding, hehe. A couple things I do to speed up the motor and have better speed control. Clean the motor commutator with a diamond stone: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html Clean and adjust the foot controller since it supplies power to the motor: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html You are working hard but I know you will be rewarded by it. Take care.
Andy, you are a gem! I bought a fairly well kept 401 G recently, it was running quite smoothly but oh boy what a build up of old grease and oil there was inside! Thanks to your videos I felt confident enough to try and get it all shiny and new again. Already given it a bath and now I'm taking apart the camstack. I've noticed quite a difference in myself compared to the girl who was too scared to even take the motor out of the machine! So thank you so so much for your videos and warm greetings from Finland.
I'm glad you found my videos. It's so rewarding to have a clean sewing machine. You've come a long way now and surely you see you can do all that I have done. Congratulations. Kiitos ystävällisistä huomautuksistasi. Take care.
Thank you so much. I had brought my singer to the “singer repair” store in town. Was told it couldn’t be fixed. Straight stitch is fine, but zip zag was crazy and scary to watch. After this video I checked my timing. I followed your instructions and rotated the cams 1/8”. Machine now moves normally. Thank you so much!!!
This this is why I make my videos so folks just like you can keep their machines in service. I'm so glad that you persevered and found the video and fixed your machine. It certainly worth it and it must feel rewarding to be able to sew with it again. After being told by the professional at the store, it couldn't be fixed. It's been my experience with these vintage singers that you can fix 99% of the problems. It's very kind of you to leave such a nice comment on my video. I appreciate that and wish you happy sewing
I just bought a second Singer 401A from a friend, needs lots of cleaning and oil. Thank you for such a complete video on this machine. This will be my second 401A. I'll be check in to see more videos on this machine.
It was considered the "Cadillac" of Singer machines when it came out. In today's dollars, it cost about $2,500.00. I'm glad you found my videos for it and best of luck. Thanks for the nice comment.
Thank you for your wonderful video with so much detail. I took apart & cleaned the cam stack as well as the jammed stitch selector knobs (using your other video). Although I've got the knobs working & the stack cleaned, I'm still not getting any stitches beyond beautiful straight ones (this problem was present from the get go). So I'll be looking at all your other great videos on this particular machine. I've used your videos for several other Singers as I'm the "Sewing Machine Maven" for a refugee charity here - so handy to have such great tutorials at my fingertips as I'm learning as I go. Thank you again! I may end up watching all 600+ of your videos by the time I hang up my volunteer cap! Pat, the Sewing Machine Maven.
My first ever comment by a Maven. I'm honored. Thank you🙏 The Playlist for model 401A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html When I'm troubleshooting the "straight stitch only" problem on this model I start at the camstack. It holds the pattern cams or discs. Nearby are the lifters & followers. The followers are small "arms" that rest against the side of a disc to follow the wavy patterns. The followers transmit that movement to the Needle Bar Driving A, which attaches to the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket, making the NB "swing" left and right to zigzag. If the followers do not touch the disc then no ZZ. If they do but the NBDR does not move then no ZZ. If the arm does move but the MBVB does not move forward and spring back then no ZZ. Sometimes the NBVB is "stuck" due to dried oil in its bushings. Fresh oil will help of course but you can also heat the parts with a hairdryer on low/medium heat and low/medium airflow. I always oil the machine before anything else b/c that can eliminate many problems. Instructions for all 36 oil points are on page 126 of the Service Manual that you can download free from the Sewing Dude: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf I do have a video for the Driving Arm th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html also the Vibrating Bracket: th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html I have many manuals I've collected over the years for several models. If I can help you with them just drop a line to andymanuals53@gmail.com. I'd be honored to share with a Maven 😊
@@andytubesewing1953 Success! After cleaning the stack, I looked at your recommended videos - & realized my NBVB was stuck. After cleaning & thoroughly oiling it, the 401A is no longer just a straight stitch on the left side machine! I just need to do my stitch patterns sampler, replace the machine into its desk cabinet & it'll be ready for a new refugee family. Next up: the 3 Touch & Sews with broken gears. Thank you again for your advice & videos!
@@patvdm6276 surely welcome and happy to hear this news. BTW, I googled you and saw the news story. Good on you and what you are doing. Godspeed. and take care.
Thanks Andy for sharing your knowledge with the world! I have been able to successfully give life back to several thrift shop finds through your videos. My collection is growing and I love them all, these include the following: 401A, 403A and the rocketeers 500 and 503A. Please keep up the great work!
Thanks for saving those machines! 👍🏆You've listed all but one of the 2nd and 3rd generation of slant-needle models. I hope you can find a heavy-duty 404 in the future, and who wouldn't love the 1st generation 301A like Coco? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI.html Thanks for the uplifting comment, and carry on, please.
Even if I'm not quite brave enough to do this on my Singer Model 500A, it's still very fascinating to watch you work! Thank you for posting this - I had been waiting some time for these type of machines to be shown and worked on. Kathy from Southeastern Arizona.
No worries b/c many people will feel the same. Perhaps one day you will want or even need to try it and you will have this video for reference. Thanks very much for watching my channel, Kathie. Take care.
Great videos-couldn't have done it without your help. Was able to get the special to me 401a that was my mom's when I was a baby. She sewed lots of stuff for me way back when, then I got the machine 30 years ago and used it for a while but then it sat--so needed lots of cleaning, lubing, working to get it moving and replace a throat plate pin that was frozen, and re-installed cam stack and sewing again with this machine. thanks so much
After watching this video, I pulled the cam stack out of my 500A and cleaned it to like-new condition. Holding it in my hand it was apparent the quality that went into these machines. I imagine that gear must have been made by a machinist on a lathe. Certainly not a cheap part - and it still looks new after all these years. Thanks so much for doing these videos - I am learning a lot. I hope this message finds you in good health.
I believe the gear was made by a machinist. What skills they had! I feel the slant-needle machines like this were made at the height of Singer's (SIMANCO) design and manufacturing years. When your machine was new it sold for close to $3,000 in today's dollars. I'm glad you like the videos and thank you for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Funny you should mention the original pricing because I've been trying to find the original retail prices for these machines with no luck. $3,000 in today's dollars makes sense for what I'm seeing inside the machine. I was telling my wife that to even get close to this you'd be looking at an industrial machine today and those cost in the thousands. Do you happen to know where I could find more info about the original prices of the 300, 400, or 500 series machines?
@@hanns1401 I do not know of a source for pricing those models. My info is incidental and comes from memories of a couple retired Singer repairmen, comments, and emails to my channel from viewers who happened to remember what they paid, or found a receipt in the accessory box or cabinet drawer and sources like that. As you seem interested in these slant-needle machines here is a nice website about model 301 and how the slant-needle machines came to be, with some manufacturing place and date information. www.singer301.com/about/default.html There are also slant-needle groups of Facebook, Yahoo, and other online locations and those groups may know a lot more of the history, including costs, than I do.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you. I should look into some of those groups. Thanks for the link and the anecdotes. It's interesting to me because it's a microcosm of American history, including manufacturing and economics of the period.
A while back, I restored a Singer 401a I found at a Goodwill store using your Singer 404 restoration videos. I am thrilled to now know how to take apart and clean the camstack! Thank you for showing us how!
First, thank you for rescuing that machine 👍 Then thanks for the kind comment. I make my videos for folks like you that will maintain, fix, restore their own machine and keep it in service. It can get quite nasty down below that camstack, as you may have found, I'm very happy you found my videos and they helped you. Happy Sewing. ✨🙏
thank you so much for your videos. I just was given a 500A that is frozen up and needed to find out how to take it apart to free it up. Your videos are so appreciated
What a nice gift to receive! I'm glad you found my videos. If I can help in any way let me know. BTW, I just checked and you can still download a free copy of your Service Manual from sewing dude. sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf It's a PDF of 46-pages and has a few things I don't cover in my videos. Thanks for the nice comment and good luck.
After watching this video, I had the courage to remove, clean, reinstall and time my cam stack on a 401A. Test sew of the 7 cam zig patterns afterwards and sews beautiful. Thanks for showing me how to do this. Tomorrow will follow your video No. 6 to remove and clean the knobs and lifters. Thanks for these wonderful videos. Even though I read through the service manual a couple of times, the visuals and your tips are invaluable. Wish me luck.
Nicely done, Ted. It always feels rewarding to see that cleaned-up stack. You don't need luck, just the desire and you clearly have that. You're getting to be an "old hand" at this sewing machine work.
Thank you so very much for these videos. I have two 401's, one bought on eBay the day before my sister showed me her deceased Mother-in-law's that she was giving me! I have cleaned and oiled both following your videos and now plan to purchase some Krud Cutter to clean the cam stack then time both machines. Your videos are so very helpful, clear, and interesting. My retired mechanic husband enjoys watching them with me. I will also put him to work helping me get these machines in shape! ;-)
Thank you for your comment. He will enjoy working on the machines and seeing how well they are made. A model 401A in 1960 cost about $450 or $3,900 in today's dollars. You can buy some terrific $4K machines today, or rehab your two machines and enjoy them. Thanks for watching my channel and taking time to comment. Take Care.
The gave me the 401A, it was glued some pieces and deteriorated paint, I fixed it andit is a wonderful machine and thanks to your videos I have it working.
Thanks. I’ve taken 2 out before and the first machine I never timed it. But never used the machine. My 411 I cleaned last week and I knew enough to time it. I’m learning and wish I saw a video like this before. I always learn from your videos. Much appreciated. I’ll be interested to see the fix on the stitch control knobs!
Welcome, but thank you wor keeping those machines in service. I always love hearing that; it's why I do my channel. I'm psyching myself up to do a "Cam Selector Arm Shaft and Followers" video, which should involve removing and replacing those knobs. We'll get a good look inside and behind them. I just trying to figure the best way to film it. Storyboarding is going a little slow, but I'll get there. Thanks so much for watching my channel.
Andy - thanks to you my 401 is now in an operable mode (after sitting idle for a year). After removing the cam stack to clean last year, I reinstalled only to find that the timing mark was off just a bit. Not knowing the mark had to be 'spot on' in order to not have wonky stitches, I took the stack apart again (and essentially gave up). I have never seen the option to 're-time' after install. Yesterday, I followed your tutorial on this method, since it would not slide/fit on the exact spot, but landed 1/8" to either the left or right of timing mark. I chose left, loosened the screws and slid it 1/8" to the right. Voila - perfect stitches now! Thank you so much for the detailed explantation, tips and insight - much appreciated!
Nicely done sir! A clever placement to the left since Singer recommends turning it to the right when setting the timing. You could write my scrips so I don't miss things like that. Thank you for keeping the machine running, Mike, and thanks for watching my channel. Take care. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
I'm glad you found my channel. I've never even seen a 431G convertible slant needle machine, but the pictures look great. Owners seem to really love them and tell me my 401A, 403A & 503A videos have helped them. Besides the 401A playlist th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html They told me the 403A playlist th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html and the 503A playlist th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html had videos that were helpful also. Someday if you have time take a look at this video for speeding up the motor. I love this easy procedure and have been doing it for every motor I work on. th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html Thanks for commenting, Angela, and best of luck with your 431G.
@@angelazeina5152 Sometimes oil gets into the threads and when it dries it gets hard. Very hard, like varnish. You can drip/spray some penetrating oil like WD40 into the hole in the top screw there, and a little around the edge. You can heat the area up with a hairdryer or heat gun (remove the plastic disc of course) the idea is to soften the old gunk it there so you can break the screw free. There is also a tap/turn method. While turning (or trying to turn) the screw you tap on the screwdriver or the edge of the screw with sharp raps. I use a small 2oz brass hammer but have used wood mallets, rubber hammer, lightweight steel hammer, plastic mallet, or screwdriver handle. The combination or turn/tap can set it free. Don't break anything, but give it a sharp rap or two. Because that top screw is unique you could even tap straight down on it a few times. Be patient. I've had to soak screws a day or two. Soak, heat, wait, try. Do it again. Again. Patience, Angela. Work on another part while waiting. Good luck.
Andy, you have "Trouble" the rocketeer lol.. I have Stubborn! :D thank you bunches for your videos.. You sure are inspiring! Now about to go watch "Cute" hehe.. Yes I have a few machines myself and really am loving the learning and tlc that goes into them! Hope you are doing beautiful on this pretty day! :) thank you bunches..
Stubborn; I love it. You'll be able to help Stubborn with an attitude adjustment. Cute is happy sewing and living in the Philippines at this time. Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Stubborn really needs help!! does a beautiful, tight straight stitch.. and before I messed with the cam stack, the zigs to ma zag started showing up, and now... they are limping along.. not quiet there yet.. I am looking for the next thing on him to sort out. I suspect it is in either the head haha go me, or the bobbin area. Sometimes he just hates to dip his needle down and pull up. I redid his upper tension, and the bobbin tension is fine.. again.. tight stitches.. when I first got him. I could hand rip/remove the stitches.. now I have to use a seam ripper.. so he is coming along, but being a brat!! :D
@@andytubesewing1953 my 99k will become a nice hand crank, if I can not sort it's motor out, other than this.. it's clean as a whistle.. was not used much at all.. was amazed.. took a trip to the other side of the mountains to pick it up :)
@@tunesandjams-lisa My, my, my. So, stubborn is being stubborn. Who knew? You did oil al of the 34 oil points before you started, right? They are shown in the Instruction Manual here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 You may as well download the free Service Manual here while you are at it: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf These may help you understand the connections from the camshaft to the needle. Like the camstack goes around, and a follower drags along a zigzag disc and the lever on the end of the follower moves a paddle on a Needle Bar Driving Arm and the arm moves a Vibrating Bracket that swings the needle bar back and forth; zig and zag. So a bad or too narrow or missing ZZ stitch can be something that does not move as intended. It may be a lack of oil or dirty parts, or out of adjustment parts or even missing parts sometimes, but it is always better to start will lubrication at the minimum. It makes sense that a clean and lubricated part will function better. The "Trouble" Playlist has videos about the lifter/followers and other parts like this video you commented on. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html The Playlist for Regina Model 403A has some same type videos th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html but also one for the Vibrating Bracket th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html I've lost track of how many ZZ problems went away upon oiling or cleaning and oiling a vibrating bracket.
@@tunesandjams-lisa I've found many motor problems are actually a foot pedal out of adjustment or dirty and not supplying power to the motor properly. Of course, motors can have problems, but foot pedals wear out much faster than motors. My Playlist for "Cute" a model 99 has videos for most of the parts on the machine, including the motor and the foot pedal. Maybe they can help you before you transition to a hand crank (unless you want a crank) th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html
Hello Andy. Your videos are top notch. The framing and lighting are good and your commentary is very clear. Thank you for all your time to make these. I have a comment about greasing the worm and the worm gear of the camstack. I looked but have not found an instruction in the service manual for greasing those. I suspect that it is because the worm and worm gear are actually oiled via the two holes on top of the camstack. The bight amplitude and pattern selector has a gutter to collect the oil from the camstack holes on both sides of center nut and deliver it to two places. The first place is to the worm. The second is to the ball end of the needle bar driving arm. Daniel
Thank you, Daniel. I have been hearing lately about this idea of a gutter and oil draining holes on the bight amplitude selector and oiling the camstack. I've never seen instructions for greasing the Disc Driving Worm Wheel and Worm Gear in the instruction manual or service manual of the model 401A. You mention the holes on both sides of the center nut on the camstack and they deliver oil to two places. It's my opinion, based on reading manuals and speaking with retired repairmen, that you never put oil on a gear in a Singer sewing machine. Only grease should be used on the metal gears. So having an amplitude gutter deliver oil to the worm gear is incorrect for me. In the instruction manuals for model 401 there are explicit instruction for oiling and grease the machine, minus the armshaft worm gear and and worm wheel gear. I think those were serviced at the store during the recommended annual servicing. Anyone can download a free copy of the 116-page instruction manual directly from Singer. It is at the top of this list: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 Instructions for lubrication start on page 89. The only place it shows to oil the camstack is through the center hole of the Screw Stud. I have some videos showing where and how I grease a worm screw and also the disc driving worm gear on the bottom of the camstack that meshes with the worm gear. I use the TriFlow Clear Synthetic Grease. Here is a video about removing, cleaning, replacing and timing a camstack. At 57:45 I demonstrate how I grease the wheel gear before reinstalling it; th-cam.com/video/aphiW06yp64/w-d-xo.html I also have a short video showing this method on a 403A: th-cam.com/video/lM3E4qQ8aUw/w-d-xo.html There are many other machines that have this kind of mechanism; basically most ZZ machines use a wheel gear to the arm shaft worm gear and here is a video I made after many requests about cleaning that area and applying fresh grease: th-cam.com/video/_SuIiVok64k/w-d-xo.html Any owner of any of these machines can oil and grease anyway they like, of course. I have used the principle that is No Oil On Gears, Only Grease on Metal Gears, Nothing on Plastic Gears ( except the Textolite Gear on the Handwheel.) I never worked for Singer or anyone else to repair machines. I did meet with a couple of retired Singer guys when they Snowbirded down here in Arizona over the winter for years. Working on Vintage Singer Machines is a hobby for me and making the videos is my attempt to help people have information to repair and service their own machine. I had family and friends asking so many questions b/c either they could not find anyone to service the machine (it can't be fixed, here buy this new one) or the quoted repair prices were very prohibitive. Thanks for saving your machine and for watching my channel. Take care, Daniel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi again Andy. Thank you for your reply. I did not expect such a carefully written reply! You and I share the love of sewing machines mechanisms, I would say. I am not writing to argue but rather to share thoughts about a mysterious design feature of these machines. I have 3 Singers machines, models 600, 500J and 411G. The owner's manual for the 600 does show to oil one side hole of the camstack in addition to the middle hole. The manuals for the 500J and the 411G do not, even if they all have the same mechanism. I would like to send you a photo of the 600 manual's lubrication figure on top of page 46. That is what made me think recently that the gutter is a design feature for oil collection. You raise very good points that Singer instructs to put only grease on the gears. However instructions for greasing the worm is not included in the scanned copies of the service manuals for the machines (the 175 page version), neither on the one for the 401A nor in the one for the 500. This is not an oversight in my view, as everything else is there in those manuals. In addition, the sides holes in the cams are aligned at the same location on all metal cams from top to bottom. The plastic hat cams also have one single side hole. Why would Singer go into the trouble of putting side holes into every one of the metal and plastic cams if not for a purpose? If you look closely at the bight amplitude and pattern selector, you will see a gutter. The side holes of the cams happen to be in direct line above the gutter. The gutter is sloped in two directions and at the bottom of the slopes are two holes. Looking from above with the camstack removed, the hole closest to the needle bar driving arm feeds oil to the ball end of the arm. Now looking the at second hole, you will see that it is located above the worm, closest to the rear of the machine. Thank for again for your reply and for reading my comments. Kind regards, Daniel
It seems you have it figured out, Daniel. I have never thought about it that much. I do see the 600 manual shows to oil the single hole, yet othr 600 series models have the dual hole stack and do not show to oil the holes. I couldn not say why. I wonder why there is alwasy grease on the worm gear when I buy a machine. You have a nice collection of machines, some unique models. Congratulations.
You're welcome, John. I'm glad you found it helpful. Here are the other 15 videos I made for model 401A; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Thanks Andy, these videos are a very good translation of what's in the adjuster's manuals, which can sometimes be a bit dense. Pulled the cam stack out of a 500A I just got and found a button underneath. :/
Thank you for your videos. I have a small size real old fashion Singer sewing machine. It looks like the first ones made. I bought it to learn how they are made. The foot motor just runs in a high speed.
Can you give me a model number of the machine? A serial number? A link to a picture of the machine or foot controller? I have videos for repairing a few different kinds of foot control pedals. How to find a Singer Model Number: www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model
Looks very easy. I use to work in A pharmaceutical Plant we had ti learn how do tear apart each machine and put it back together also clean oil and lube them every 2 weeks. So I can do it
Yes, straight forward and easy to do. Your work at the plant was more involved than this cam stack. You'll enjoy how rewarding it is to see the clean cam stack. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I have bought 2 503 A both need this done and one the Black clip to the right of Bobbin case flops all over Have had it to the repair shop 2 times and they can not figure out what I'm talking about I bought a 401 A yesterday for 25.00 and can not get it to Zig Zag thought this might help
@@cathyscreations1954 The floppy black clip is called the Bobbin Case Position Bracket and it needs to slide under a spring clip inside the bed to the right. That is what puts tension on the bracket to keep it in place. See this video at about 26:50 for installation instructions th-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/w-d-xo.html Your $25 model 401A won't ZZ? hehe, that's cute. So, have you cleaned the machine and oiled it to factory specs? Are the two front knobs setting properly on the ZZ settings? Can you tell if the lifters and followers under the arm cover are actually tracking the ZZ pattern disk? Yeah, it's a mechanical machine with lots of moving parts. Like the Tin Man whom Dorothy found who could barely move until she oiled him up a little. I have several other videos for model 401A that deal with the parts that make the ZZ work. They can be found in a playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html My playlists for models 403A, 404, and 503A can be helpful as they have many of the same parts as model 401A They are all on my playlist page, listed by model number. th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists You can download free copies of the original instruction manuals for your machine direct from Singer Support at this link: www.singer.com/support Just put the model number in the search box next to "VIEW MANUALS". Singer Manuals are very informative and besides explaining how to use all the features of the machine they also show where to apply oil & grease. Their Service Manuals they wrote for the repairmen are quite good also and you can find free copies for your models on this page: sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/ You have two of the finest Domestic Sewing Machines Singer made. In today's dollars, they cost about $3000 each when new. 👀 so you got a nice bargain.
I'm so glad I watched this video, thank you! My timing is over an inch off. I couldn't figure out why my stitches looked so odd. 🤭 You make it look so easy I can hardly wait to go fix my machine.
Andy, I followed you word for word on this video for a Singer 500A. I was told the only reason this machine was not doing any other stitches. Other than a straight stitch, was due to cracked cams. Or dirty cams, after following you on the video. It still won't zigzag or any other fancy stitch. By the way the cams were dirty. And what a wonderful lesson, at least I did it. But can you shed some light on why it didn't work? 500A and all it does is a straight, although it's a pretty stitch. Thank you for the help, I love your videos.
Cracked Cams? No kidding? That's a new one for me. I've never encountered it. All parts on the machine are connected and work together, normally. If you can not zigzag but you can straight stitch the needle bar is going up and down and the feed dog is feeding fabric and the motor is running so you're off to a good start. The needle bar is not "swinging" or moving left and right so no ZZ. The vibrating bracket holds the needle bar and allows it to swing. The needle bar driving arm makes the vibrating bracket work. Two small devices push on the needle bar driving arm. They are called followers. They follow along the edge of the pattern discs/cams. The in and out "bumps" on the disc are what moves the followers against the NBDA. When you push or pull and turn the knobs on the front of the machine (selector knobs) you are moving the followers up or down the cam stack and setting them against the disc. See? There is something not working properly between the cam stack and the vibrating bracket. Does the follower reach the cam stack? Does the follower reach the needle bar driving arm? (the followers are situated between the cam stack, on the left side, and the "paddle" of the driving arm to the left) Is the driving arm still connected to the vibrating bracket? That's what you need to check those parts and trace the movement. This video you commented on is part 5 of a series for a model 401A which is mechanically the same as your 500A. Part 6 of this series is about removing and replacing the knobs, lifters (that lift the followers) and the followers. Maybe watching it will help you understand the function and action of the followers. Here is the link to my playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html You may want to bookmark it as I'll be adding more videos each week. Here is the link to the knobs, lifter, follower video: th-cam.com/video/-tLtk2Zyqn8/w-d-xo.html I have also done videos about the needle bar driving arm, like this one for the 403A, that explain that part and how it works and how to remove and replace it and the spring on it: th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html You may not need to do any work on it but watching some of it can help you understand more. I've also done videos about the vibrating bracket the driving arm connects to and holds the needle bar. This one is on a 503A (sister to your 500A): th-cam.com/video/L9ZiWURPA-Q/w-d-xo.html These parts are like the old song about the foot bone connects to the ankle bone, to the shin bone, knee bone, etc. and all work together. If one of the parts is out of adjustment, broken or (gasp) missing then no swinging needle and no zigzag or pattern sewing. Without seeing inside your machine I just wanted you to have a mental picture of what should be happening inside. I think once you get the idea of what is supposed to happen you can quickly see what is not happening. Remember you can change the playback speed on the video up to 2x speed if you like. I tend to go slower as I want people who are not familiar with working on a sewing machine to have a chance to understand. You did good with the cam stack, right? I have over 500 videos like this one you watched, made for people just like you who would like to get a vintage Singer machine working so they can use it; you are like my "target viewer", right? So give it a go and see what you find, and if you come across any Cracked Cams on your machine, please take pictures for me. Good luck, Shani, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@shani5491 I can't think of other advice than I have given. Perhaps you could upload a video of the machine while it is running, showing the cam stack, needle bar driving arm, vibrating bracket and needle bar in motion, or lack of motion. You can put it on your TH-cam channel or any other public viewing platform. Maybe I could spot something that way. I have seen incredibly dirty machines that sew just fine, so I'd need to see all those moving parts that make the machine zigzag stitch.
Just bought a 401 a it runs great but it needs a lot of cleaning. Do you have a video for cleaning the bobbin area? Thank you for the video I really learned a lot.
Hi, Marie. Congrats on your "new" Slant-O-Matic 401A! I'll refer you to a couple of Playlists I have for Slant-O-Matic Models. The first is for your 401A with 16 videos pertaining to that model. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html The second playlist is for the sister machine, the 403A with 26 videos. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html Many of the parts on these two machines are the same. One of the 403A videos is about the bobbin area parts. th-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/w-d-xo.html I generally clean the machine and parts with a solution of Krud Kutter Cleaner and Degreaser as in this video but you can clean the hook parts, etc. without removal with common alcohol. Remove the parts you can and clean as in my video, and clean the hook area with a lint brush and alcohol and Q-Tips if needed. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Thank you very much, Andy! You are helping me a lot with your videos of the 401, and all the other videos. I recently got a 401g13, but it is wery similar to the 401a.. The lamp house and the top cover are slightly different on them. I have read that the G is standing for made in Germany. A is standing for America. :-). Please keep on your nice work! :-), and have a good luck! Greetings from Norway!
@@hakonbhmer1760 Jeg snakker ikke norsk, men ville vise deg respekt for at du tok deg tid til å kommentere og ga meg et smil, vel vitende om at folk i Norge ser på videoene mine. jeg brukte Google Oversetter.
Thanks! I recently bought a 401a and it needed to be cleaned (straight stitch was breaking my top thread). I used PB Blaster to get those cams cleaned up.
Hi, Chris. It needed cleaning and adjusting. There are lots of moving parts on this machine to control all the settings. Please take a look at this Playlist for model 401A. One video is for freeing up stuck knobs, and another is for removing all those knobs and selectors. Other videos in the playlist are for some of the lifters and followers as well and a few other systems on the machine. It's why I prefer the 403A myself. I hope the videos will help and answer some of your questions. Thanks for watching my channel and happy 2022.
Love you, Andy! You have so much knowledge and are so kind to share with us trying to learn. Curious as to whether Dawn dishwashing soap might be more effective than Joy? They market themselves as grease cutting soap, so I was just wondering. Thank you for these videos; I have learned so much!!!
I've never used Dawn but I'm sure it works great. I've had this bottle of Joy for almost 30 years, just for cleaning parts and tools occasionally. Both soaps are made by Proctor and Gamble and the Material Saftey Data Sheets both say NO Phosphates which is all I really care about. I'm sure Google searching for "joy vs dawn soap" probably has some direct comparisons of the two. Thanks for watching my channel. Good question. Take Care.
Hello Andy, sorry if you cover this elsewhere, and I am working through your videos. I had a quick question. You mentioned at the beginning of this series things you won't cover. Restoration. I had a quick question. at 59:10 you mention the "eccentric" stud. I got 2x used 401a that I wanted to wash, like your other video showed, Should I leave that eccentric stud alone? You mention that reinstalling it has to be just right. Too tight and things bind, too loose and things rattle. Seems like that's the last of the "perfect" adjustments that are needed beside the camstack timing. Do you cover anything on this elsewhere? Thank you for all your videos.
I'm sure there must be a couple of my 600 videos that show that type of adjustment. You can download a free copy of the service manual here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf At the bottom half of page 159 you'll see instructions for "Bight Amplitude and Patter Selector."
Andy, I have a a 401 a and I’ve watched you cam cleaning video. The cam unit on my machine is completely bound up. It won’t move. Nothing moves on it. Yours moved freely before you started cleaning it. I removed the screws but I can’t get it apart to clean it. Any suggestion?
To be sure I understand, you have removed the stack out of the machine, but can't disassemble the parts? You saw my stack had oil all over it, even between the cams. That's kind of unusual and I think someone had recently oiled the heck out of it. It would be more common that oil had crept inside the space between the cams and then dried to a hard varnish-like condition. Like gluing the cams together. This can happen to many different parts on a machine that sat in storage for years or decades. We need to soften that dried oil up to get things moving. You can use a hairdryer or heat gun to heat up and soften the gunk, Don't burn your hands grabbing the stack when it's hot. You can use chemicals like WD40 or other penetrating oil. You can soak it in alcohol or a solution of Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser and water. Once I boiled water in an old pot from the thrift store and put a needle bar and presser bar in it. A low boil/simmer for about 5 minutes or longer and the parts could be loosened and taken apart. If I misunderstood your question, ask me again with more info and we can go from there. Thanks you for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes, this sounds exactly like my problem. I've saturated it in WD 40 and no movement. Now I've got it sitting in Dawn dish soap and water. If that doesn't work, I will try the heating method. Thank you for your great videos! They cover every single step perfectly!
@@kdeshazo1 So, you're already on the right path. Dawn is a mild degreaser so not sure it will help much. You can heat the stack to a high temp as it is all steel. I always hesitate to mention this, but you are determined. If those things don't work for me I have used something to "strike" the sides of the cams/discs. Usually near the last couple of cams. I use a 2-ounce brass hammer, but a lite tack hammer, plastic mallet, wooden mallet, etc. can work. I set the longer part of the cam on a bench or piece of wood so the last 2 or 3 cams hang over the edge and give those last ones a fairly sharp rap with my hammer. Of course, we don't want to damage the cams in any way. The idea is a sharp hit, like jarring it. I always use the chemicals and heat first. I have a friend who uses a propane torch even. That makes me nervous so I use a heat gun or hair dryer on high. Best of luck. Patience is really a virtue in this circumstance.
Thank you for the video my timing was way off. And it was an easy fix with your help. Do you know why I am having a lot of trouble removing my special cams when I want to swap them? They are almost impossible to remove. My only guess is there is something wrong with the tri-spring.
I've never had the tri-spring cause that. The selector knob MUST be moved OFF of SPECIAL when installing or removing a disc. If not then the follower is against the disc and you are pulling against the follower and lifter and can bend/damage those parts. Once they are bent, or moved out of place, it gets worse. The followers and lifters can need cleaning and adjusting after so many years. Here is a video about that th-cam.com/video/-tLtk2Zyqn8/w-d-xo.html When people have posted a video for me to see how hard it is to remove the discs I often see they have the knob set to special when removing or the lifter height is off and the followers are still against the discs.
Solution: Hey Andy Tube I tried many things but finally figured out why my top hats were so hard to get off. The post (metal rod that holds the top hat spring in place and screws onto the top of the cam stack) was too large in diameter. It looks like it could have been from a different machine. I ordered a used one off of eBay and now it works beautifully!
Greetings Mr. Andy and thank you very much for your videos. Could you do that cleaning for a singer 700 machine, the discs are plastic, the mechanism is the same? What do you recommend.
I don't work on the Singer Touch & Sew Models, but the pictures in the Instruction Manual look the same ( www.singer.com/search/support?title=700 ) Because the 700 uses dials for stitch width and other dials you may encounter different small connecting parts than in my videos. Be sure to take plenty of pictures and take notes before you remove any parts. Here are a couple of links for buying Service Manuals and Repair and Adjusting Guides to model 700: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-700-706-708-720-726-728-sewing-machine-service-manual/ store.tandtrepair.com/tosew700se.html Thank you for watching my channel and good luck.
Hello Andy. Got my second Singer 401G from a nice lady nearby. She was facing some problems with the old machine and got a new one from her husband, so she gave the old Singer away for a very reasonable price. The machine is in a pretty good condition with very little oil and gunk inside, it almost looks like new. So first thing I did is to lubricate all moving parts with a good precision oil. Anyhow the zig-zag stiches look a little weird, if you look at them from the down side the left side of the stich is pulling the upper thread much more like the right side. So now I'm about to check what's the reason for that. Tomorrow I will check the timing. Thanks a lot for your perfect videos! But here's my question: You did oil the disks a little to prevent them from rusting and lubricated the gear with some grease. But if I haven't missed something, you didn't oil or greased the surface of the disks where the followers are touching them. Is it ok to have them more or less dry? Again, thanks a lot for your wonderful videos and many greetings from Germany!
EDIT 10/28 to correct follower info. Congrats on the "new" machine. I don't add oil to the sides of the discs per se. When I oil the discs for rust I wipe the excess and some oil will get to the side. I don't oil the sides because the oil transfers to the followers and when you use an insertable top disc they are a type of plastic and not metal. The follower rides on that disc when sewing and could transfer oil. I just remember the retired Singer men telling me "no oil or grease on plastic parts." That may be too old-school thinking now but I still follow that. "only grease on metal gears, and no oil or grease on plastic gears or parts" in general. There are many synthetic oils & grease now so maybe it does not matter. Two things that came to mind about your zigzag are to be sure the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket is oiled properly as that affects the "swing" of the NB, and be sure the cam stack is timed correctly.
Hi Andy. Your instructive videos are absolutely awesome. I've often came back to revisit your directions as I forget. I recently rebuild another 401A including the Cam Stack, I didn't remove the Cam Stud, all timed good, smooth, quite. However, when running the machine at slow or higher speed, I have a cyclic occurrence where the machine slows a little, seemingly binding, and there's an associated knocking/tapping sound. I'm wondering if the Cam Stud could be bent? All ideas are surely welcome. Thank you again for your years of work building a library for the vintage sewing machines.
Hmmm... a lot of possibilities for binding, play, or backlash on this machine. The cam "stud" would be fairly hard to bend, much harder than the presser bar for example which is hard to bend. More likely that it got turned. That stud is the Worm Wheel Shaft and it is Eccentric. It meshes with the Worm (gear) on the horizontal shaft. If the mesh is too tight or loose very weird things happen. I don't know all you have done on the machine, but any of the shafts can have play or binding, the main horizontal shaft, the hood drive shaft, etc. I guess I would start with that worm wheel shaft since you did some work in the area. I'd remove the cam stack again and run the machine. If the problem is gone try reinstalling the stack and be double sure you >>> meshed it with the eccentric shaft worm wheel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. Well I took several of your points of advise. Not sure if it was the cam stack and eccentric or saw your needle take-up binding on 327K Spartan and did that work, maybe a little of both, but "Hassle" cousin to "Trouble" is smooth now. I"ll continue to check all points of setup and hopefully try some sewing this coming weekend. I tip my hat to you for your perseverance reading through the Singer Service Manual, it's quite the manual, kinda like engineering code manuals which I'm use to, ARG. Anyway, thank you so much again for your suggestions and informative and fun TH-cam videos. I"d like to support your work & endeavors so how would I do that? Maybe PayPal?
@@TrygR1 Oh, good news! I agree it could have been some of each. Before I remove screws I always look closely, even with a magnifier, to see if there are tool marks on it. Sometimes we "readjust" settings and get them a tiny bit off. We don't notice at the time, but they add up and can get to the point it becomes noticeable. I used a lot of service manuals in my Bell System Phone career so I'm used to that. The vintage Service Manuals are nicely done, IMO. They have helped me many times. Engineering code manuals sound worse to me, haha. Thanks for asking about supporting my channel. I appreciate it and I have a PayPal account for viewers to do that. www.paypal.com/paypalme/andytube?locale.x=en_US
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. Hassle (born in 1960) is running great. Yes someone had been into it before by indications on screw heads as you mentioned & discovered my bobbin tension wasn't right so upon inspection, found the spring tension screw gone, ARG. No worries, found another 401A (Gracious, born in 1957, $20) but she's too nice to use parts. Hope to find bobbin case tension spring screw or another complete bobbin case holder. In the mean time, I'm disassembling Gracious for a good bath. Thank you again for your dedication in creating the instructional videos. Hope you're doing well, have a Merry Christmas, and may God bless you & family
My mum was a seamstress extraordinaire. She bought one of these machines back in 1959, and used it for many years. It was a faithful workhorse. Sadly she is no longer here, but her old machine is still working fine. Mind you it is a little noisier. I wish she was around to watch these videos, because she wasn't afraid to do any maintenance. After her passing I came across someone selling one of these, and couldn't resist going to look at it. It was in brand new condition, and the lady never used it because she thought there was something wrong with it. I got the machine and a beautiful table it was mounted in for $75.00. When I got it home I discovered the only thing wrong with it was the bobbin case wasn't installed properly. It does seem a little finicky to get in at times though. It runs silky smooth. The only thing I notice is that sometimes when reversing through thicker material, the needle jams against what I am assuming is the hook, could the timing be off a touch, or is this normal?
That was sure a find1 so your name is really John "Lucky" B then, right? Nicely done. We tend to forget that these are mechanical all-metal machines that need oil on a regular basis. The old oil can get dry, sticky and even form a kind of varnish. Fresh oil is usually a good thing for them. Just Sewing Machine oil is good. Anyone who needs it can go to Singer and download a FREE copy of the original Instruction Manual. www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 The Manual on top of the list is the longer one and the 4th manual down is abbreviated but both have the three pages of where to put oil & grease. I often forget to oil the hook race to the side of the bobbin case. The needle should never jam against anything. On thicker items, the needle is into the material longer. The feed dog is timed to the needle stroke and will be pulling the fabric along even if the needle is still in the fabric. Don't try to "help" the fabric along. Our timing is not as good as the machine and we can force or delay the material which will make the needle flex into the hook. Use more presser foot pressure or get a "Roller" foot or a "Walking" foot and let the machine do all the work. Yes, the timing could be a tiny bit off, I have seen that. Not enough to cause skipped stitches, but enough of a delay that the inside part of the hook is already coming at the needle. If you combine that plus thicker fabric causing flex then maybe that is what is happening on your machine. I have a recent video about timing the hook on a model 403A. It's actually pretty good and it would be the same procedure to check and/or set the timing on your 401A. th-cam.com/video/cHkqoYYlvRE/w-d-xo.html It's not hard to check the timing, and then you could eliminate it as a problem, or reset it if it's off. Thinking of your mom, I'm guessing the timing is OK, but check it anyway. Best of luck, Mr. Lucky. Take Care.
Thanks. I think the built-in cam does at least 21 but probably many more. I never counted. Here is a chart comparing the patterns for the 401A to the 403A www.pinterest.com/pin/43276846399887099/ You can download the instruction manual for free and see the pattern info it contains: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 Thanks for watching my channel.
Do you have any videos where you remove, clean and replace the bight amplitude and pattern selector (the silver circle shown at 58:46)? Mine is dirty and so is the area underneath it. Thanks.
Sorry, I do not. I've never had to remove it but just clean around it. The Service Manual shows the steps to remove it on paged 159. Anyone needing a copy of the Service Manual can download it free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Thanks for asking and good luck.
Andy Tube Thanks, Andy for your response. I have the service manual and I see I need to remove screw T6. I wasn’t going to remove the part unless you had a video showing how to remove and replace. Since you don’t, I will not remove, but just clean around. Today is the day for the shower 🧼 for my 500. I would never would have even thought to undertake this before I found your channel. Thank you!
You're welcome. Yes, loosen screw T6 and remove the whole camstack with the eccentric worm wheel shaft. Putting that shaft back in properly is the tricky part. It can certainly be done. You have to have the top half pointed a certain way and turn it into the worm gear just right. Not too tight because it will bind and not too loose because it will have play. That's why I prefer not to remove or adjust it if it is already working well. For those who wonder where screw T6 is on page 159, it is not there, hehe. C_f_a is talking about a model 500A and not the 401A as I thought. It is the same process on both models with different part numbers. The free 500A Service Manual is here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf On model 401A it is screw "X8" while on the 500A it is the "T6" screw. Have a nice shower then, C_f_a and enjoy how clean it turns out. Take Care.
if you mean the long spring with hooks at both end you can see one end of it at 2:45 in this video after I remove the driving arm: th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html The other end is up in the nose and hooks to the bottom of a pon for the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket. I talk about it at 8:22 in this other video: th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes. That's the one. I discovered that it is called a needle bar driving arm spring and I just kept watching your videos until I finally saw it. Your videos help so much. Sending a token of my appreciation to your PP. Thank you!
Dear Andy, thank you for this (one more) amazing lesson. Nothing was left behind. I have a long time probably silly question 🙋♀️ why is it that the gears can’t be oiled but only greased? Thank you so much
Knowledge is power and learning is joy. The only silly question is the one not asked. I asked both of my retired Singer Repairmen about this years ago because I saw in some INstruction and Service Manual not to put oil (like NEVER) on the gears, all in bold caps. They were trained that the grease will stay on the gear longer and hold up longer than oils. Many of the Singer machines like the 401A have what they called "open" gears, meaning they were not sealed in a space that was packed with grease. Oil would fly off the gears quickly and the gears would heat up fast. Oil was preferred for bearings, bushings, like for the needle bar and presser bar and arm shafts. These two guys were the first to explain to me that grease is just oil with one or more "thickeners" to change the viscosity. I know nothing about Industrial Sewing Machines but have been told that many of them have sealed containers over some of the parts and oil is pumped around and through the contained area to keep the parts cooler and avoid friction. In that situation, they said oil actually works better than grease. Whew!, I hope that helps, but I know there is a continuing debate between what is best, grease or oil. My approach is that the designers and makers of the machines (Singer, and SIMANCO) trained their techs and advised their customers to only put grease on gears and to never put oil on them. That is good enough for me. Thank you for watching my channel, Paula, and happy sewing.
Great explanation and thank you for the encouragement too. You’re so right there’s a special joy in learning. For now it’s been mostly happy disassembling, cleaning, reassembling, oiling and greasing ;) Later I’ll hopefully also get to the happy sewing hehe. Have a nice weekend!
@@paulamendes5907 I don't even know how to sew! If you see me doing test sewing you know what I mean, haha. Plenty of time for sewing in your future anyway. Have fun with the machines while you can is my motto.
Hi Andy, So glad to see you are back. Your videos are a wonderful resource. I have a 401A that I must set the needle selector to 4 to keep the needle centered. Any ideas on how to correct this?
Thank you, Johnnie. I think the adjustment is "to centralize the needle bar driving arm...." on page 141 of the service manual that you can download free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf I'd suggest downloading the 500A Service Manual also. The machines are the same mechanically (for the most part) and sometimes the pictures are better in one or the other manual. Here is that link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf If my suggestion is not the correct adjustment needed, you will have the manuals to search through for a better answer. Besides, when you get a 500A to restore 👀 you'll already have the manual for it 😀 Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I bought a kenmore 158.161 sewing machine. When I put a cam in, the little black thing won't press against the cam and make the stitch. It's very loose. I feel like it might be missing a spring. Would you know anything about those? Thanks. Love your videos. I have lots of machines but none so far are Singers, tho.
Thanks for watching my channel, Anne. I only restored one Kenmore machine years ago. That was enough to learn that parts, parts manuals and service manuals are hard to impossible to find. I never worked on any more. There is a old Sears website that you can sometimes find parts manual pages. The idea was to identify the part and part number so you could order it. They have some pages for Kenmore 158.161 and if click on a page it enlarges the picture. They you can do a screen grab and save it to your records if you want. The diagrams are similar to most parts manuals with an exploded view of the parts. Maybe you can look at some of the pages and at least see if you have the parts on your machine. Here is the web pages I'm talking about: www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5by43yyp95-000582/kenmore-158161-mechanical-sewing-machine-parts When I do this with SInger machines I can often search Google for the part by name and number and sellers show up, like on eBay for example. If you are missing a part you'll usually have to find someone selling parts off a machine; parting out" a machine. One parts seller I have used for Singer also has some Kenmore parts from a few models: www.thriftyfarmgirl.com/sewing-machine-parts.htm I also see an eBay seller that is sellihng some parts for your model: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=kenmore+model+158.161+sewing+machine&_sacat=0 Maybe you can use the parts pages to recognize a missing part and find it on eBay? Good Luck, and next time look for a nice SInger please 😀 th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists
Si vous voulez dire les caméras à motif noir, elles s'appellent Singer Top Hat Cams et peuvent être trouvées sur eBay et Facebook marketplace www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw= Chanteur+Couture+Machine+Top+Chapeau+Cams+&_sacat=0 Si vous parlez de la pile de cames en métal en haut au centre de la machine, vous devez en trouver une d'occasion. J'achète sur eBay pour cela www.ebay.com/itm/153374343655?hash=item23b5d2c1e7:g:LbsAAOSwiHBdI7uJ Si vous êtes en dehors des États-Unis, je ne sais pas où vous pourriez le trouver. Merci d'avoir regardé ma chaîne, mais posez votre question une seule fois et non sur plusieurs vidéos. Merci.
Hi Andy! I🙂 have question, it's about the camstack of my singer 411G. I already watched your video showing how to remove and clean it. I followed the instructions, but in the moment that I would like to put it back inside it seems to be stuck and it's not passing... I mean that in your video it seems to slide easily. In my case I can giggle all I want but it's not going down as it should.... I will thank you your time again because I don't find an answer again of this new problem 😭 Have nice day Andy!
Somethings I've found out. Be sure the dials are still set to A-K (or whatever straight stitch setting is on the 411G) and the Red Lever is set to 3. Those settings keep the lifters and followers to the side and below the cam stack so they will not block it. The tolerance of the parts is very close. You must align the stack directly over the post to drop the stack straight down. If the stack is leaning in any direction, even 1 degree, it won't go on. It sounds like you are saying your stack goes on the post but won't drop all the way down and MESH gears with the worm gear on the arm shaft. Usually gently wiggling the stack will allow the mest and then the drop down. If that is not working try to wiggle both gears by gently wiggling the stack AND gently turning the handwheel forward and back a short distance. By moving both of them you'll have a better chance of meshing them. Also, do not push down hard on the stack but let the weight of it rest on the worm gear. I suppose you could even rest the stack on the worm and gently move the handwheel to get the stack to drop. Lastly, talk nicely to the stack and ask it to quit fooling around if it ever wants to work again. 😃
I have an extremely dirty (gunked up) Singer touch & sew special zig zag 626. I did clean it to the point that all the selectors and handwheel are moving. However it only stitches straight. There doesn't seem to be good or constant pressure against the "plastic" cams. What am I missing and do you have a video for machines like 626 that are not all metal. Thanks for any help.
I have no videos for touch n sew models. I looked at the parts diagram for model 626 and is shows almost the same part for the camstack, lifters, followers, and Needle Bar Driving Arm as model 401. Here is a playlist for model 401A and there are videos for the lifters and followers and cam stops. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html You can also by the 41-page Service Manual for model 626 for $8.99 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-626-sewing-machine-service-manual/ It should show how to adjust, remove, replace almost all the parts on the machine. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@andytubesewing1953 I'll watch this video. As always, thanks for your help. It feels great to bring these machines back to life, doesn't it! And the Singer 626 has one of those fun self winding bobbins.
Got a 401a at a thrift store. It ran but I've been watching all your videos to disassemble parts, clean and put them back together! I'm having a weird problem that wasn't happening before. The CAM STACK is "jumping" up and down with almost every rotation of the hand wheel. It's only in contact with the worm wheel gear so I can't figure out what is causing it to do that.
Not knowing all that you have done with the machine means I can only guess at the cause. Logic says you removed something, like the cam stack, and did not reinstall correctly. The worm wheel gear must mesh correctly with the worm on the horizontal arm shaft. If the mess is not complete then the gear and worm fight each other. Try reseating the cam stack. Another thought is something I had years ago. The cam stack sits on and screws onto an eccentric shaft. That shaft is set at the factory with the top half of the eccentric pointing towards the handwheel, then the eccentric shaft is slightly turned clockwise to set the amount of mesh between the worm and worm wheel. The mesh must be close enough to provide smooth operation but not too "tight" as to cause binding and backlash. I'm wondering if you may have inadvertently twisted the cam stack and eccentric shaft while working on it. It would not take much movement clockwise to increase mesh and cause a backlash. Just a thought. I'd advise going back over the work you have done to be sure of your reassembly, but also that you download a FREE copy of the original Service Manual for Class 401 machines. It's not the best copy quality but useable and you can get it here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Page 159 has instructions for the "Bight Amplitude and Patter Selector" that I mentioned about the eccentric stud and figure 323A on the same page has a drawing of the stud and worm and worm gear. Don't know what else to say, really, other than good luck.
Hello Andy, could you make a video on how to center the needle? The needle is suppose to be centered on AK3, but mine is centered on the dash on the left of the 3, it's not a big thing but it makes my zig zag a bit to near of the plate, could you show us how to put it back in the center please? (I have a singer 401J)
I have not made videos for a while now due to my health. I don't think I ever made a needle-centering video for the 401 model. It's an adjustment up on the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket. I can direct you to a free copy of the original service manual for your machine where it does have directions for doing that. See page 142 sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf It helps to have the straight stitch needle plate, but you can use the ZZ needle plate if you eyeball it closely.
You’re the best!!! I was looking for this service manual, thank you so so much! I have the straight stitch needle plate! Yes!! I am so sorry to know that you’re having health issues, I hope you will get better, I really love your videos, we can feel how passionate you are about these machines and about teaching. You are a great teacher! Take care of yourself as you would with your machines ;)
@@Cass_772 Sounds like you're all set then. Remember, it is not always what you think, so test before taking and adjustment steps. Wish I could watch you work b/c I think you are having so much fun.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes I really do! I cleaned the cam stack yesterday and I can't zero-it-out perfectly, I'm about 1mm off, so today I will make some adjustment since I watched your video on it. I understand that when you move one thing, you have to adjust something else (like the butterfly effect) but I am super patient for machines so I will take my time, until it's perfect. Also, I will read that entire manual to make sure I really understand what I do. I wish you could watched me work!! It would be sooo awesome! Have a beautiful day Andy!
@@Cass_772 When I was learning to work on the machines the hardest part was learning patience. I'm not normally a patient guy, but I finally got it. I also learned to avoid frustration by walking away from a problem for a while rather than get frustrated. Patience & persistence have served me well with the machines. Also, never let the machine boss you around, and it's OK to talk to them, hehe.
Hi Andy! So I'm taking my 401 camstack out again and cleaning the gears below. Also the camstack parts :). Did you mention whether the cams get a little oil between them (or brushed lightly with oil) before stacking? Also - the gears below and to the side of the stack. Those get grease, correct? Thank you so much for your valuable info!
Yes, Grease on the gears. Never oil on the gears. Yes, I put a light coating of oil on the steel pattern cams and then wipe it in and off with a rag. I do that because I usually use a degreaser and have stripped every bit of oil off of them. So I just want to give them a little protection from rust or the elements not to lubricate them because once they're together they don't move against each other. Thanks for keeping that 401a in service
Thanks so much! Yes, I use your 25/75 KrudKutter solution now for most pieces - works great! I'll give the cams a slight coat of Triflow oil and now that the gears under the stack are all clean, a brushing of Triflow grease!@@andytubesewing1953
Your videos are fantastic! I've used them to restore 2 301s, a 221 and now a 401a which was very, very dirty. Cleaned the cam stack and re-timed as per your video. However, the stitch patterns seem to be one off by one letter for the back lifter / front knob (A-J). Does this mean the machine is contacting the wrong disc in the stack or that I need to re-adjust the timing mark to the back follower? Thanks for all you do.
Thanks for saving all those machines, Kathy. My first thought is the index pin setting is off and the lifter is not raising to the correct spot. Take a look please at this video and see what you think. th-cam.com/video/di8ruyC-bow/w-d-xo.html You know where all the 401A videos are in this playlist, right? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you. I checked the Index Pins and they seemed ok although I don't have a feeler gauge. I did nudge the timing mark just a hair. The Follower isn't very pointy and it's hard to tell what is considered aligned. It may have been as simple as sitting down and observing the pattern selector knobs straight on to be sure to have the correct letters selected. Patterns seem to be correct now. Thank you for everything you do to help promote the restoration of these vintage machines. Your knowledge is vast and your willingness to share that knowledge is inspiring. Bless you.
@@kathycronin8547 thanks for sharing the results, Kathy. Many people read these comments so it's great you shared this as I'm sure you are not the only person having such a problem. I appreciate you watching and commenting. Take care.
Sure, no worries. If you start watching this video at 08:20 I show where both ends of that spring are attached, th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html From the Vibrating Bracket in the nose, back to the lever that moves the paddle on the other end of the Needle Bar Driving Arm.
The 3 screws are part #51095. I don't have any reference guide for their exact size or threading. You normally don't find screws for a Singer machine at the hardware store anyway, but have to find them online, usually from a seller who is parting out the machine. The camstack for model 401A is also used on 500A. I searched eBay and found one for sale (the whole stack): www.ebay.com/itm/115475284546?hash=item1ae2dd0242:g:h5EAAOSwSm5i30uo IMO, $20 with free shipping is a reasonable price for a hard to find part.
Me again Andy, I have run into a problem. I have removed my camstack and the three top screws will not budge. I recently acquired this machine and I believe that the screws were turned too tight. The seller did a spit and polish on the machine and I believe that they merely wiped the surface gunk off of the camstack as evidenced by the hard orange residue poking out of the discs. I have been trying to loosen these screws for three days now. I have put Tri-Flow Super Lubricant on them repeatedly and come back after several minutes intervals to see if I can get the screw to budge even a little, no luck. Should I apply Krud Kutter or WD-40 to the screw area and hope for the best. In its present condition I do not know if the discs are frozen together with gunk or even if they are on in the correct order. Your advice is appreciated. Thank you!
The hard orange stuff worries me. I wonder if that is a type of rust from a reaction to whatever cleaner they used. If you see other evidence of rust on the machine (in other spots) I would be tempted to use a rust remover dripped onto the screws. I use The Must for Rust but there are other brands. If I did not think it is rust I have a couple methods I use in no particular order. 1. I heat the screws and the top of the stack. I normally use a hairdryer on high heat/low air flow and get it good and hot. After it cools enough to hold with work gloves I try the screws again. The principal of this is the heat expands the metal and as it cools it contracts. We are trying to break the "seal" between the screw and screw-hole enough to turn. 2. This is a tap-and-turn method and you may need a 3rd hand if the stack is out of the machine. This method is trying to break the seal by a sharp short jarring method while turning the screwdriver at the same time. I use a 2oz brass jeweler hammer so you see you are just giving it sharp short raps... rep-rap-rap-rap while turning. Not driving in a nail, so if a larger hammer do not hit too hard. This has worked very well for me and it's a joy to hear that sharp "snick" when the screw breaks free. I have also used a combination of these two methods, kind of back and forth on the worst stuck screws. Other viewers have told me they have used a heat gun (ok) and even a propane torch (scary for me) to heat the screws. Others have told me, on a piece like a stack, they have put it in an old pot and set it to boil/simmer for a while to loosen things up. Kind of like the long slow version of the hairdryer, I guess. A soldier in Afghanistan said they boiled a needle bar/needle clamp/needle in a pot with water and some Krud Kutter type of degreaser for an hour and then got it apart. That's about it. Sorry you're having such an adventure with this machine, but you have to admit you are learning new things 😀
@@andytubesewing1953 I managed to get one screw out last week but nothing since. I have tried the flooding with Tri-Flow method, the hot hair dryer method, the taping method, and as soon as I receive my "The Must for Rust" order I will try the boiling water with Krud Kutter method. I don't want to do it without the ability to deal with flash rust. In the meantime I purchased a recycled one from an Etsy vendor. I am not giving up on my cam stack but now I will have the luxury of determination and perseverence to show these stuck cam stack screws who is boss! Will let you know if I am successful.
@@ritagoldman7232 Some progress then, but wow, you have a stubborn screw there. You have a rare but not unheard-of case. I admire your determination. Yes, with a vintage electro-mechanical machine you must be the boss or the machine will misbehave frequently, haha. Good luck.
What model/size of ultrasonic do you recommend that'll work for most machines? The one I use is a cheap $20 from amazon and it doesn't fit most shafts I pull.
When the eccentric cam stack shaft has been removed how do you tell when you have it back in correctly. The service manual says to face it towards the wheel! What side do you face towards the hand wheel?
There are three steps to the reinstallation of the cam stack shaft. 1. install the cam stack shaft with the eccentric upper part of the shaft towards the handwheel. Look at Fig. 323A on page 159 of the service manual. You see that the top part of the shaft is off-center (eccentric) from the bottom part of the shaft. That upper eccentric part should be facing the handwheel end of the machine. So from the bottom of the shaft, the shaft goes straight up, then has a "jog" to the right. That jog to the right is eccentric and you face it toward the handwheel. ***👉 Usually I can see the mark of the set screw X8 on the bottom of the shaft before I set it into the machine so I look for that mark and face it toward me b/c that's how it was when I took it out. 👈*** You can't always see that mark but most of the time it is there. When you have the Needle Bar Driving Arm Ball Pivot engaged into the Pattern Selector you are ready for the 2nd step. 2. You must "set the mesh" between the worm (teeth on the arm shaft) and the worm wheel (teeth on the bottom of the Pattern Selector). Mesh means the way the teeth of the two parts come together. You set the mesh by turning the shaft clockwise (right) while turning the handwheel. When you feel the handwheel starts to bind a little bit (harder to turn) then stop and turn the camstack shaft back to the left a tiny bit until the handwheel turns easily again. You may have to play with it a little, like turning back and forth to get the feel of the mesh. Make small adjustments. If the mesh is too tight it is hard for the motor to turn the shaft and you lose power and speed for sewing. If the mesh is too loose the arm shaft and cam stack move apart & together and create a backlash effect that is rough and noisy. 3.. When you have the mesh set properly then tighten Screw X8 against the cam stack shaft so it won't move and change the mesh you set. That's the screw behind the lampshade that you loosened to remove the cam stack shaft.
So, you have it out of the machine but all the parts are stuck like glue. For myself and other viewers, we have had success boiling the stack in plain water. It's all metal so no harm done. Usually, I have found the discs stuck together with decades of old, dried-up oil that binds like varnish. If you don't like the boiling idea you can try heating with a hairdryer or using a degreaser like KrudKutter or a penetrating oil like WD40 or PB Blaster. Honestly, boiling seems to work the best and no chems installed. A viewer in Germany fixed her 431G by boiling and she said she made "cam stack soup". haha. 😀Thanks for watching my channel.
Hey Andy, I just worked on the cam stack of a 401A I found this weekend. It was fun and this video made it easy! In the process, that long spring that sits at the left side of the machine and attaches to somewhere in the middle area came off. Also, it was the wrong spring so I just ordered the right one. I remember years ago this happened and you were able to help me remedy the problem. The problem now is I can’t find my notes of how to do that and it seems like everything just moves all around in there without that spring. Do you happen to have a good clear picture of how the inside looks with everything intact? I do have other slant machines but I just wasn’t sure if any of them have the same spring. Before I pull them out to look, I thought I would ask you first. Thanks
Hmm... The long spring from the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket to the Paalde stop lever near the camstack? Here is where it connects to the NBVB VB end- th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html @ 8:20 Here is where it connects to the Paddle Stop, see it behind the Needle Bar Driving Arm after I lift it away @ 2:44 of this video - th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html Is this what you need? BTW, it really helps me if you list a specific time in the video for what you are asking about. I have 600 videos and answer a lot of questions about them and it would same me a lot of time. Thanks
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy I kept looking and watching your videos and I was able to do some screenshots of the visual I need to put the spring back. In fact, there’s a lady out there that did a video for this particular issue and I noticed in the comments people were asking where the other side of the spring was. Her video only covered the side that goes to the paddle. Anyway, I put the machine on the shelf and I’m just waiting for the correct spring to come in. Thanks again for responding and I’ll try to be more specific next time.
Andy I bought a 500 for $25. but its pretty siezed up. I have used some cleaner and its staring to turn but its really sluggish. The bobbin winder works perfect and runs fast so I dont think its the motor. In fact when I lay it on it's back it runs fast, but as soon as I put it upright its sluggish again. Not sure I have the skills to take every part off for cleaning but I fear thats what is needed. .
I take the parts off b/c I'm restoring the machine, but it is not always necessary for sewing. About your machine running fast on its back but slow in the normal upright position. That makes me think the BOBBIN CASE is not installed correctly. When on its back the case will have less pressure but when upright it may be dragging or jamming on the rotary hook. The easy test is to just remove the BOBBIN CASE and see. The two playlists I have that relate to your machine are the 503A Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html and the 401A Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html You can get free downloads of the manuals too. The Instruction Manual: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-owners-manual.pdf The complete Service Manual: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf I don't think the cam stack is causing your problem so I would remove the bobbin case as a first step. Best of luck, and thanks for rescuing that machine.
Hey, Andy! Thank you so much for your informative videos. Saw the whole of this one unfortunately the problem with my singer 611g needle position is still persisting :'-(
Will cleaning the cam stack solve an issue with skipped stitches? What’s the best way to clean the inside of the machine and get old grease off the arms from the stitch selectors?
Welcome to Andy Tube, SS. clean cam stack/solve skipping = probably not; a slight chance. Many other things can cause skipping. A deep clean of the machine can eliminate many causes and problems and if it still skips you will be adjusting a clean machine. First, you can download a free copy of the Service Manual which shows how to remove, replace, and adjust most of the parts. sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf If you don't want/can't do what I'm going to suggest here then at least you have the manual to work with. The best way to clean and remove old grease is to take off whatever parts you want, but at least the motor. Pre-treat the machine on the bench with a solution of Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser, being careful of the painted surfaces. Then take the machine into the shower and spray it off with the KK at about 20% solution, rinse well with plain water, dry it very, very well and start oiling it right away. Do not wait on the oiling. Then put back any parts you took off and start your sewing tests again. If you still have stitching problems (or any other problems) you can follow the service manual for adjusting things like the needle bar, hook timing, needle position, centering the needle bar driving arm, Zero-out the machine, clean and adjust the tension assembly and maybe adjust the hook to needle clearance, to name a few. Many/most of those may not be required if you have cleaned and oiled the machine well. You can watch over 100 videos on my channel about the parts on your machine and adjusting them, the motor, and the foot controller. The main Playlists on mine that pertain to your model follows here: 401A = th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html 403A = th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html 503A = th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Speed up the motor for $10 = th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html Restore/Rehab the whole motor = th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html Restore/Rehab the foot controller = th-cam.com/video/9OC79P3UWXY/w-d-xo.html If you are curious about cleaning your machine in the shower, this video is an example of how to do it = th-cam.com/video/N3oYsTBJrFI/w-d-xo.html Thank you for subscribing to my channel. You know where to find me if you need help in the future. Good Luck.
Andy Tube thank you for all the information! I wish I could save this reply for future reference. I’m still working on the cam stack but want to clean inside as well so the machine just might be taking a shower!
I often save commnets by highlighting them with right click hold drag copy and pating them into a work program. Some people have shared great info. You can save the video page to your favorites. The comments stay on the video. Take care.
It may be stuck with dried-up oil. You can try getting a penetrating oil under it, you can try heating it with a hair dryer (be patient) you can dismantle it in place or partially dismantle it until getting better access to the side of the center post and adding the WD40 type product.
It's fortunate you only damaged the screwdriver and not the screw. Replacing the screw could cost more if you can find them. You can try a penetrating oil, like WD40, to soften any dried oil down in the threads. I also have used heat, like a heat gun or hairdryer. Another method that has been successful is using a small/lightweight hammer to whack the screwdriver while trying to turn it at the same time. I use a 2-ounce jewelers hammer so I'm not trying to hammer in a nail, just give it some good "shocks" to get it loose and moving. Using hollow-ground or straight-edged screwdrivers helps very much. The ones I bought came with a small rachet that applies about 3 times the torque and has helped me get many stubborn screws out. Typical screwdrivers have tapered ends that do not fit the slots very well. Here is the set I bought so you can see what I mean: chapmanmfg.com/pages/sewing-machine-repair-screwdriver-sets
@@andytubesewing1953 thinking that would be the advice would give - I dripped some oil and let it set over night and this morning I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE the screw! THANK YOU SO MUCH! I just LOVE your videos!
@@shannonsimpson485 Hahaha 🤣 I'm laughing with you, not at you. It's part of the adventure of working on vintage items. I've had that several times. It's usually been dried oil sticking them together. Spraying with the penetrating oil can get them apart. Last time, on a 500A, my wife put the cam stack in an old mixing bowl and poured boiling water over them. By the time the water was cool enough to touch, the discs were laying in a pile, all loose, on the bottom of the bowl. They are made of solid steel and not much can harm them unless you really try to. Hoping you already have them apart. Thanks for saving that poor machine.
When you remove the cam stack, there is a vertical pin that hold the cam stack Do you know what's the right way to put it back that pin if took it off? Thank you
That is an eccentric shaft that has to be turned a certain way upon insertion and the top part adjusted to set the mesh of the worm wheel gear to the worm gear on the horizontal shaft. That is how you adjust the gear mesh so not too tight and binding, but not loose with the play that makes noise and jumps the shaft. My best advice is to go to this link and download a FREE copy of the SERVICE MANUAL sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf take a look at page 159 for pictures and written instructions. You can get this right, Gabriel, just take your time. Good luck.
You should be able to fix that yourself and save money. Take a look at this video that covers the bracket. You don't need to remove all the stuff as I did but maybe just tighten something up th-cam.com/video/n1LSM-BZw9k/w-d-xo.html If this is not what you're asking about let me know and good luck. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 oh Andy, you are a jewel. I’m going to try this when my shoulder heals from surgery. I think this is just what it needs. My machine has been in my family since it was new and only serviced ( I’m going to learn to do this myself) and probably needs a good cleaning and lint removed. I feel so much more confident because of your videos. I have 2 other 401’s that need work so I may practice on them. One of them the zigzag won’t stay connected after stitching a few stitches and probably needs a good cleaning of that area as well. I am your newest fan!! Good bless you! Rebecca
@@rebeccawilliams6931 I love a family-owned machine. My model 403A playlist of 27 videos covers most of the 401A parts: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html I also have a 17-video playlist for Model 401A that covers the parts not found on the 403A, like those sticky control knobs and cam stack: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Please heal fast & well and enjoy the machihes
SOme old foot pedals have a capcitor inside that was for radio interfeance. When they fail it makes the motor run at the fastest speed. The capacitor should be removed for safety. If you can describe the foot controller or link to a picture of it I can give you more information. See my reply to your other comment. Good Luck.
On your last cam timing after you loosen the 3 screws did just the top #7 cam move or did the entire cam set stay together and move to time. I played it over a few times and thought the entire cam set should stay together but couldn't really tell. Loved watching the video.
Thank you! It's a good question, BJ, because I only said "when you turn this cam stack" in passing. The entire cam set moved. The silver "post" that the black cap slides into goes through all 7 discs to keep them correctly orientated to each other, so to move one disc is to move them all. When I turn to line-up the timing mark the whole cam stack is turning together. Only the disc driving worm wheel stays stationary against the worm gear of the horizontal arm shaft. (because I loosened the 3 small screws) Thanks for watching my channel and taking the time to ask questions.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks, I thought it had to stay together but just wanted to make sure. Great teaching video. I am going to try it tomorrow. Barbara
@@BJFilbin Yes you have it right and you can do this Barbara no worries just to step at a time you'll be happy and very rewarded when you're finished take care now
I was going to follow along with my Singer 600E to fix the timer but those 3 tiny flat head screws that hold the cam stack are stuck in place over all these years and I don't know how to unscrew them without stripping them. What can I do? Thanks
Here is how I approach that problem. If I am not in a hurry then I soak the screws with penetrating oil, like WD40. I'll apply it and then soak a makeup remover pad with oil, or a rag, and cover the screws and let it sit overnight. I'll work on other parts of the machine, such as the tension or washing the covers, etc. If I'm in a hurry I will wait an hour or so and then start heating the screws. I use a hairdryer. That helps thin the oil for penetration and also softens the tried up hard oil holding the screws in. (I assume you did not find rust on the screws) It can take 5 minutes or much, much longer for the heat to work. There is another approach called twist and hit. Using a well-fitting screwdriver you push down and turn on the screws while you give a couple three sharp raps to the screwdriver while turning. The idea is that impact can "break free" the stuck screw and get it moving. Usually, once it gets free (sharp snick sound) it turns easily. You are correct to not want to strip the screw head; big problem then, so patience and oil with heat is the key. I hope you are successful and good luck.
Andy, I tried and tried with the W D 40 and heat but could not get those tiny screws to budge. The only screwdriver that I had that would go into that slot was a Kenmore sewing machine one. It was to small for me to get a good grip to turn. What size screw driver could you recommend or impact screwdriver?
I bought a couple of sets for working on machines. Hollow Ground actually made for gunsmithing. I bought this first one in 2017 with donations people made to my channel: th-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/w-d-xo.html The have other sets with more bits and you can buy individual bits anytime you like. Then 2 years later I bought this one with a donation and recommendation. th-cam.com/video/7_DHIC6eskc/w-d-xo.html The Chapman is better quality and the wheeler had more bits
That is an industrial model, Janis. I don't work on them. You can find some manuals online and ARMY documents also. Some are for sale and some are free. Here is what I found in a one minute Google Search search of the model number: www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-singer-111w155.aspx www.manualagent.com/singer/111w155/users-manual books.googleusercontent.com/books/content?req=AKW5QaeVwagFvjfS-_P6zAXxpYckWtyznXIyg6P0NphT3JDyEnEJB27c8BTmAf8qc-HkNr8fAqfwPmXfOcVCpT6fPavi3uAtFZ4D_6lh8mv36ghfaeLvWVnqF9X0DeDbwGU5tjEFP2e1vWD6ZYq50C82dySapfWZNM_aOcM6t_uwwYzsMNQBBKonmLPfHKVnnwAjR-iLPrsrjm1reDPv4yhwDtVlH0H4bHWKgsCT76v9puDQkgp7uXWauq9htP-5ojEIpMghnw3bbQFdPSaKeWP11yXRm5kRXg There are others too. Good Luck.
No, it too "new" for me to work on. I have no service documents for it b/c it was not originally sold in the USA, sorry. FREE INSTRUCTION MANUAL HERE: www.singer.com/search/support?title=1280 Here are the playlists of the machines I have videos for in case something I recorded can help with your problem: th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public That's all I can do. Good Luck.
Hi, Elizabeth. Let's check a little bit before we remove any parts. I do not know the history of your personal machine, but I have been told it is based on the 401A model. It may just need a little cleaning and some fresh oil. If you have the instruction manual follow that for where to oil/grease your machine. If not you can download a FREE copy of the 401A manual which should give you a fairly good idea of the oil points. This is directly from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 I have just recently made this video you commented on as well as other videos about the parts that help the machine make those patterned stitches. Maybe glancing through some of the videos could help you see if the necessary parts are moving correctly. I'm not saying to remove the parts as I do in the videos (unless you want to) but just to see how those knobs and lifters and followers are supposed to function. Those are more likely to need your attention than the cam stack itself which just rotates in the middle of it all. That cam stack is like a sun with all the patterns and the other parts are like satellites that move against it and because of it. An example would be the follower touching the cam and making the needle bar driving arm push on the vibrating bracket in the nose that moves the needle bar back and forth. Sometimes people forget to oil that bracket and it can't swing as much as it should to make those fancy stitches. Here is the playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Please remember you can click on the little setting gear in the bottom right and increase the playback speed of the video if you like. I hope that sets you on a good path to find the problem or at least eliminate that it is a lack of oil or it is dirty parts. BTW, I use a special cleaner, buy alcohol works if you can spare it and even fresh oil will soften old dirty oil so you can wipe it off or brush off with old toothbrushes before final oiling. Good luck and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the reply. I bought the machine last Thursday and have never had a vintage machine before. The manual from Singer is very vague. Yesterday I followed your video to clean the cam and the video about loosening up the followers. Both were excellent and easy to follow ! Thank you ! My machine still does not sew the fancy stitches. It looks like the follower is not hitting the metal plate which tells the needle what to do. I will keep watching the videos and maybe clean moe of the parts inside. The videos are a great way to understand how the machine works. I would be really afraid to take apart my modern computer machines but this one is much easier to understand. Thanks for the great work.
@@elizabethlouros2998 You are on the right path, and already learning about the machine. You can also download a FREE copy of the Service Manual and it has all the adjustments, remove and replace instructions. The manual the repairmen used. sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Page 141 is about centralizing the needle bar driving arm and page 159 is about R&R the arm. I also have a video about the arm: th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html and a video about the vibrating bracket: th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html The driving arm has a long spring to the VB that keeps the paddle on the driving arm against the followers. If the VB is dirty or has no oil then the spring may not be strong enough to pull the arm against the follower. So more cleaning and oiling is probably needed. I'm guessing if your just bought it it was in storage somewhere and what you are finding is very common, especially on a model like the 431G with all those fancy controls; ie more parts equals more maintenance.
A few things can cause that. It may be simple to repair if a lifter is stuck, or the needle bar driving arm is blocked. Here are all my 401A videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html one of the videos is about the knobs, lifters... th-cam.com/video/-tLtk2Zyqn8/w-d-xo.html here is a video about the needle bar driving arm on a403A a sister machine: th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html be sure to oil the machine properly as shown in the manual. If you need the manual you can download a free copy from Singer Support: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 Good luck, Thomas, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@thomascooperjr-ym1mi sounds like you're a natural at this Thomas. Congratulations! I don't think you'll have any problems with the needle bar and I hope it's sews like a dream when you're finished. Good luck!
Very common. Usually, a good cleaning and oiling are what it needs. Maybe some adjustments. This video may help you see what is going on: th-cam.com/video/-tLtk2Zyqn8/w-d-xo.html Here is the playlist for model 401A. Some of the other videos may help also: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Two reasons. One, it was not the purpose of this particular video. That comes later in the 16 video series. I did mention cleaning it and how to do it if you wanted to at the time. Two, I always like to see who feels they need to leave a snarky comment about something in my videos. This time that was you, Vida 👀 It took 102 comments but you finally showed up. 🏆 Thanks for watching some of my video. I hope you have a better year in 2021.
Hi Andy. Thank you for the wonderful detailed videos! I recently found a 401a for $30. The cabinet is in terrible shape but the machine is in very good shape. All it really needed was cleaning, lubing, then I found out that the knobs were stuck. I successfully removed the lifters and the followers and also the cam stack cleaned and oiled retimed and now she's purring like a kitten. I'm so excited, I'm learning so much from your videos! thanks again!
@@rebeccarenner8927 You're so welcome, Rebecca. TH-cam had held this comment "for language" What? Some kind of glitch I'm sure. It just showed up here today, 1/21/2022. Happy New Year, I guess. Thanks for watching my channel, and for keeping that machine in service. What a bargain that was!!!
Andy, Andy, Andy.. What are you doing? No need to take the 'stack' apart. It's already a tightly assembled unit. Just give the entire thing a good cleaning as is... What you are showing is a waste of effort.
Apnj, Apnj, Apnj. 🤣🤣 Thank you! 🙏 I always get a good laugh when a No Name Pine Rider with ZERO content on their channel tries telling me how to work on my machines. My first really good laugh in 2023 thanks to you. I'll have to pin your comment to the top of the videos comment section so my other viewers can have a good laugh, too. Thanks again, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 your most welcome. But remember you are showing other people unnessary effort and complications with your complete disassembly. Keep things simple....👍👍
@@andytubesewing1953 what's a 'No Name Pine Rider'... ?
😊
@@andytubesewing1953 Oh YES it is Necesary when I disassembled the cam stack and found the GUNK in between. We Who Follow Andy like to do things Properly! Thank you Andy!
So incredibly helpful - I can't tell you how valuable your videos are to 'beginners' like me! ❤❤
Thanks for the comment, and for your interest in vintage machines/
Hi Andy, please count me as yet another person who has found your videos and teaching style absolutely invaluable. I truly appreciate and thank you for sharing so much knowledge to help keep these wonderful, high quality machines in service. Only because of you I managed to resurrect and begin a new life for an abandoned yet beautiful 401a I found in a coma from neglect.
"...found in a coma..." hehe, I love it! Thank you for saving that machine. A great model for any kind of sewing. I'm happy you found my channel. Take care.
Thanks you, you let me feel like a pro, first time with a singer it's a gem of a machine .
You sure picked a nice machine for your first one. Congratulations! I'm happy to hear that the video helped you and you certainly can do any and all maintenance on that machine. Thanks for the nice comment and have a great 2024
I live all the way in Jamaica, can't seem to find any parts, that little thing you push, when doing the bobbin tread is crystalize. don't know we're to get one, I visited a singer store, no luck. Thanks Andy. I really like the machine. Have a great 2024.yourself. good job 👍.
@@choalette SHOP TEMU for 3pc vintage sewing machine rubber ring: www.temu.com/search_result.html?search_key=3ps%20vintage%20sewing%20machine%20rubber%20ring&search_method=user
$0.78 for 3 pieces.
This was very useful video, at first i was afraid of all these gears and levers but after removing stack it makes sense. Simple and complicated at the same time, very clever those Singer engineers.
So many parts that have to move together just right, and they only had slide rulers back then and no CAD software! How did they do it? Maybe they were descendants of the Pyramid designers? Thanks for watching.
This is a great video.!! ... love to see how things are made..! Thank you so much for all the time that you put into these videos.. so generous..
I've been fascinated with how these machines were made. In this model the camstack system driving arm and vibrating bracket weigh more than some modern machines
Jan 25 and I just cleaned the cam stack on my singer 411G. Awesome! Plus I enjoy your relaxed sense of humour. 😂
@@suno8911 nicely done congratulations and thanks for keeping that machine in service a unique model happy New Year
I can’t say enough how much I appreciate you and your help! Great help!!!
This nice comment says it all. Very kind of you. Thank you.🙏
I just got a 401a and I’m so excited to start sewing on her!! She is in really good condition but needs some cleaning. After watching several of your videos I’m ready to get busy giving her some TLC. Thank you so much! Not only are your videos great instruction but you are very fun and interesting as well. Perfect combination!!
You sure picked a nice model. You will find it rewarding to clean the machine and get it back to its original condition so it works well. I'm glad you found my channel and thanks for leaving a comment.
I hope you are well. I can not thank you enough for doing these vids...you have made me a repair warrior! I have a collection now. One 466 I bought for $10...that poor baby was in awful condition...your 400 series vids helped me save it. And my 2 500A's, (Thelma and Louise) thank you too!
Thelma & Louise, I love it! I have 500+ videos on my playlist page, grouped by model number. Thanks for saving those machines! It can be a never ending hobby with all the Singers made over the last 100 years. Take care.
Hey Andy, I have yet another playlist of yours I get to watch. I found a 401A this weekend for $20 with cams and other accessories in a case. It was fairly clean but needed the usual minor cleaning done. I totally forgot to grease the hand wheel and where it meets the motor so I’ve gotta go back in there and do that. Now after watching this, I may go in there and remove and clean the cams. So therapeutic, I love it. Can’t wait to finish watching what else you cover on this model. Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge.
Wow that's a great bargain you got there. This model is a little complicated and lots of little parts down in there, but taking a step at a time and cleaning everything up. You'll probably never have to do that again. By the way, if you find my Regina model 403a playlist, it has a lot of the same parts just in case you come across something I don't cover in the trouble. 401a, hope you're having a good holiday weekend
Thanks, Andy. It WAS a lot of fun for me. It’s12:05 AM and I’m having a hard time convincing myself that the sixty year old cam stack can stay dirty until the morning. You are the best!
Thank you, but get your rest. It's going to be a beautiful day for cam stack cleaning tomorrow. Trust me, and please stop by my channel again. Take Care.
Another great video! I picked up a 500A from 1961 at the thrift store and while it would straight stitch, the motor couldn't rotate the cam stack in any other mode. I figured the cam stack had never been cleaned. I had to apply Kroil penetrating oil to separate the gear from the stack. The cams were so dirty I thought they were black metal! After Krudkutter in a machine, I applied Autosol metal polisher, and I thought they were fine. Then I rubbed one with 1000 grit sandpaper and was amazed how a bright metal appeared! Of course, once you have one nice side bright, you realize you have 13 more sides and the edges to polish...
I didn't put my machine in a bath, and everything else is clean, so I will clean out the worm gear and then I should be done with the cleaning, oiling, greasing. I'm hoping that will help the motor have the power to turn the stack.
Thank you. It sounds like you found a real mess there. I admire your fortitude for sanding, hehe. A couple things I do to speed up the motor and have better speed control. Clean the motor commutator with a diamond stone: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html
Clean and adjust the foot controller since it supplies power to the motor: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html You are working hard but I know you will be rewarded by it. Take care.
Andy, you are a gem! I bought a fairly well kept 401 G recently, it was running quite smoothly but oh boy what a build up of old grease and oil there was inside! Thanks to your videos I felt confident enough to try and get it all shiny and new again. Already given it a bath and now I'm taking apart the camstack. I've noticed quite a difference in myself compared to the girl who was too scared to even take the motor out of the machine! So thank you so so much for your videos and warm greetings from Finland.
I'm glad you found my videos. It's so rewarding to have a clean sewing machine. You've come a long way now and surely you see you can do all that I have done. Congratulations. Kiitos ystävällisistä huomautuksistasi. Take care.
Thank you so much. I had brought my singer to the “singer repair” store in town. Was told it couldn’t be fixed. Straight stitch is fine, but zip zag was crazy and scary to watch. After this video I checked my timing. I followed your instructions and rotated the cams 1/8”. Machine now moves normally. Thank you so much!!!
This this is why I make my videos so folks just like you can keep their machines in service. I'm so glad that you persevered and found the video and fixed your machine. It certainly worth it and it must feel rewarding to be able to sew with it again. After being told by the professional at the store, it couldn't be fixed. It's been my experience with these vintage singers that you can fix 99% of the problems. It's very kind of you to leave such a nice comment on my video. I appreciate that and wish you happy sewing
I just bought a second Singer 401A from a friend, needs lots of cleaning and oil. Thank you for such a complete video on this machine. This will be my second 401A. I'll be check in to see more videos on this machine.
It was considered the "Cadillac" of Singer machines when it came out. In today's dollars, it cost about $2,500.00. I'm glad you found my videos for it and best of luck. Thanks for the nice comment.
Thank you for your wonderful video with so much detail. I took apart & cleaned the cam stack as well as the jammed stitch selector knobs (using your other video). Although I've got the knobs working & the stack cleaned, I'm still not getting any stitches beyond beautiful straight ones (this problem was present from the get go). So I'll be looking at all your other great videos on this particular machine.
I've used your videos for several other Singers as I'm the "Sewing Machine Maven" for a refugee charity here - so handy to have such great tutorials at my fingertips as I'm learning as I go. Thank you again! I may end up watching all 600+ of your videos by the time I hang up my volunteer cap! Pat, the Sewing Machine Maven.
My first ever comment by a Maven. I'm honored. Thank you🙏 The Playlist for model 401A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
When I'm troubleshooting the "straight stitch only" problem on this model I start at the camstack. It holds the pattern cams or discs. Nearby are the lifters & followers. The followers are small "arms" that rest against the side of a disc to follow the wavy patterns.
The followers transmit that movement to the Needle Bar Driving A, which attaches to the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket, making the NB "swing" left and right to zigzag. If the followers do not touch the disc then no ZZ. If they do but the NBDR does not move then no ZZ. If the arm does move but the MBVB does not move forward and spring back then no ZZ.
Sometimes the NBVB is "stuck" due to dried oil in its bushings. Fresh oil will help of course but you can also heat the parts with a hairdryer on low/medium heat and low/medium airflow. I always oil the machine before anything else b/c that can eliminate many problems.
Instructions for all 36 oil points are on page 126 of the Service Manual that you can download free from the Sewing Dude: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf I do have a video for the Driving Arm th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html also the Vibrating Bracket: th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html I have many manuals I've collected over the years for several models.
If I can help you with them just drop a line to andymanuals53@gmail.com. I'd be honored to share with a Maven 😊
@@andytubesewing1953 Success! After cleaning the stack, I looked at your recommended videos - & realized my NBVB was stuck. After cleaning & thoroughly oiling it, the 401A is no longer just a straight stitch on the left side machine! I just need to do my stitch patterns sampler, replace the machine into its desk cabinet & it'll be ready for a new refugee family. Next up: the 3 Touch & Sews with broken gears. Thank you again for your advice & videos!
@@patvdm6276 surely welcome and happy to hear this news. BTW, I googled you and saw the news story. Good on you and what you are doing. Godspeed. and take care.
Thanks Andy for sharing your knowledge with the world! I have been able to successfully give life back to several thrift shop finds through your videos. My collection is growing and I love them all, these include the following: 401A, 403A and the rocketeers 500 and 503A. Please keep up the great work!
Thanks for saving those machines! 👍🏆You've listed all but one of the 2nd and 3rd generation of slant-needle models. I hope you can find a heavy-duty 404 in the future, and who wouldn't love the 1st generation 301A like Coco? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI.html Thanks for the uplifting comment, and carry on, please.
Even if I'm not quite brave enough to do this on my Singer Model 500A, it's still very fascinating to watch you work! Thank you for posting this - I had been waiting some time for these type of machines to be shown and worked on. Kathy from Southeastern Arizona.
No worries b/c many people will feel the same. Perhaps one day you will want or even need to try it and you will have this video for reference. Thanks very much for watching my channel, Kathie. Take care.
Great videos-couldn't have done it without your help. Was able to get the special to me 401a that was my mom's when I was a baby. She sewed lots of stuff for me way back when, then I got the machine 30 years ago and used it for a while but then it sat--so needed lots of cleaning, lubing, working to get it moving and replace a throat plate pin that was frozen, and re-installed cam stack and sewing again with this machine. thanks so much
Family machines are the best. I'm glad you have it back in service and thanks for keeping it. Happy sewing.
After watching this video, I pulled the cam stack out of my 500A and cleaned it to like-new condition. Holding it in my hand it was apparent the quality that went into these machines. I imagine that gear must have been made by a machinist on a lathe. Certainly not a cheap part - and it still looks new after all these years. Thanks so much for doing these videos - I am learning a lot. I hope this message finds you in good health.
I believe the gear was made by a machinist. What skills they had! I feel the slant-needle machines like this were made at the height of Singer's (SIMANCO) design and manufacturing years. When your machine was new it sold for close to $3,000 in today's dollars. I'm glad you like the videos and thank you for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Funny you should mention the original pricing because I've been trying to find the original retail prices for these machines with no luck. $3,000 in today's dollars makes sense for what I'm seeing inside the machine. I was telling my wife that to even get close to this you'd be looking at an industrial machine today and those cost in the thousands.
Do you happen to know where I could find more info about the original prices of the 300, 400, or 500 series machines?
@@hanns1401 I do not know of a source for pricing those models. My info is incidental and comes from memories of a couple retired Singer repairmen, comments, and emails to my channel from viewers who happened to remember what they paid, or found a receipt in the accessory box or cabinet drawer and sources like that. As you seem interested in these slant-needle machines here is a nice website about model 301 and how the slant-needle machines came to be, with some manufacturing place and date information. www.singer301.com/about/default.html There are also slant-needle groups of Facebook, Yahoo, and other online locations and those groups may know a lot more of the history, including costs, than I do.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you. I should look into some of those groups. Thanks for the link and the anecdotes. It's interesting to me because it's a microcosm of American history, including manufacturing and economics of the period.
A while back, I restored a Singer 401a I found at a Goodwill store using your Singer 404 restoration videos. I am thrilled to now know how to take apart and clean the camstack! Thank you for showing us how!
First, thank you for rescuing that machine 👍 Then thanks for the kind comment. I make my videos for folks like you that will maintain, fix, restore their own machine and keep it in service. It can get quite nasty down below that camstack, as you may have found, I'm very happy you found my videos and they helped you. Happy Sewing. ✨🙏
“Let me get my cam stack removal tool.” You are funny. 😀
lmao!!! ;-)-
restoration work is fun! Thanks for watching.
thank you so much for your videos. I just was given a 500A that is frozen up and needed to find out how to take it apart to free it up. Your videos are so appreciated
What a nice gift to receive! I'm glad you found my videos. If I can help in any way let me know. BTW, I just checked and you can still download a free copy of your Service Manual from sewing dude. sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf It's a PDF of 46-pages and has a few things I don't cover in my videos. Thanks for the nice comment and good luck.
After watching this video, I had the courage to remove, clean, reinstall and time my cam stack on a 401A. Test sew of the 7 cam zig patterns afterwards and sews beautiful. Thanks for showing me how to do this. Tomorrow will follow your video No. 6 to remove and clean the knobs and lifters. Thanks for these wonderful videos. Even though I read through the service manual a couple of times, the visuals and your tips are invaluable. Wish me luck.
Nicely done, Ted. It always feels rewarding to see that cleaned-up stack. You don't need luck, just the desire and you clearly have that. You're getting to be an "old hand" at this sewing machine work.
Thank you so very much for these videos. I have two 401's, one bought on eBay the day before my sister showed me her deceased Mother-in-law's that she was giving me! I have cleaned and oiled both following your videos and now plan to purchase some Krud Cutter to clean the cam stack then time both machines. Your videos are so very helpful, clear, and interesting. My retired mechanic husband enjoys watching them with me. I will also put him to work helping me get these machines in shape! ;-)
Thank you for your comment. He will enjoy working on the machines and seeing how well they are made. A model 401A in 1960 cost about $450 or $3,900 in today's dollars. You can buy some terrific $4K machines today, or rehab your two machines and enjoy them. Thanks for watching my channel and taking time to comment. Take Care.
The gave me the 401A, it was glued some pieces and deteriorated paint, I fixed it andit is a wonderful machine and thanks to your videos I have it working.
I'm glad you found my videos and thank you, Gustavo, for saving that machine and getting it back in service! 🏆
Thanks. I’ve taken 2 out before and the first machine I never timed it. But never used the machine. My 411 I cleaned last week and I knew enough to time it. I’m learning and wish I saw a video like this before. I always learn from your videos. Much appreciated. I’ll be interested to see the fix on the stitch control knobs!
Welcome, but thank you wor keeping those machines in service. I always love hearing that; it's why I do my channel. I'm psyching myself up to do a "Cam Selector Arm Shaft and Followers" video, which should involve removing and replacing those knobs. We'll get a good look inside and behind them. I just trying to figure the best way to film it. Storyboarding is going a little slow, but I'll get there. Thanks so much for watching my channel.
Wider was neues und nützliches.Perfekt Meister Andy!
Eine sehr interessante Maschine zum Arbeiten. Danke fürs zuschauen.
thanks again for your wonderful teaching video: my cam stack is clean and perfectly timed👍
You bet, it's always good to have a clean cam stack.
Andy - thanks to you my 401 is now in an operable mode (after sitting idle for a year). After removing the cam stack to clean last year, I reinstalled only to find that the timing mark was off just a bit. Not knowing the mark had to be 'spot on' in order to not have wonky stitches, I took the stack apart again (and essentially gave up). I have never seen the option to 're-time' after install. Yesterday, I followed your tutorial on this method, since it would not slide/fit on the exact spot, but landed 1/8" to either the left or right of timing mark. I chose left, loosened the screws and slid it 1/8" to the right. Voila - perfect stitches now! Thank you so much for the detailed explantation, tips and insight - much appreciated!
Nicely done sir! A clever placement to the left since Singer recommends turning it to the right when setting the timing. You could write my scrips so I don't miss things like that. Thank you for keeping the machine running, Mike, and thanks for watching my channel. Take care. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
I am so pleased to have come across your videos! I need to sort out a 431g .... Thank you Andy
I'm glad you found my channel. I've never even seen a 431G convertible slant needle machine, but the pictures look great. Owners seem to really love them and tell me my 401A, 403A & 503A videos have helped them. Besides the 401A playlist th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
They told me the 403A playlist th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html
and the 503A playlist th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html had videos that were helpful also.
Someday if you have time take a look at this video for speeding up the motor. I love this easy procedure and have been doing it for every motor I work on. th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html Thanks for commenting, Angela, and best of luck with your 431G.
I’m trying to turn the top of the cam to open it - but it won’t budge and I’m damaging the head of it with my scewdriver🙈
@@angelazeina5152 Sometimes oil gets into the threads and when it dries it gets hard. Very hard, like varnish. You can drip/spray some penetrating oil like WD40 into the hole in the top screw there, and a little around the edge. You can heat the area up with a hairdryer or heat gun (remove the plastic disc of course) the idea is to soften the old gunk it there so you can break the screw free. There is also a tap/turn method. While turning (or trying to turn) the screw you tap on the screwdriver or the edge of the screw with sharp raps. I use a small 2oz brass hammer but have used wood mallets, rubber hammer, lightweight steel hammer, plastic mallet, or screwdriver handle. The combination or turn/tap can set it free. Don't break anything, but give it a sharp rap or two. Because that top screw is unique you could even tap straight down on it a few times. Be patient. I've had to soak screws a day or two. Soak, heat, wait, try. Do it again. Again. Patience, Angela. Work on another part while waiting. Good luck.
Thanks!
I appreciate your support of my channel. Thanks very much 🙏
Andy, you have "Trouble" the rocketeer lol.. I have Stubborn! :D thank you bunches for your videos.. You sure are inspiring!
Now about to go watch "Cute" hehe.. Yes I have a few machines myself and really am loving the learning and tlc that goes into them!
Hope you are doing beautiful on this pretty day! :) thank you bunches..
Stubborn; I love it. You'll be able to help Stubborn with an attitude adjustment. Cute is happy sewing and living in the Philippines at this time. Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Stubborn really needs help!! does a beautiful, tight straight stitch.. and before I messed with the cam stack, the zigs to ma zag started showing up, and now... they are limping along.. not quiet there yet.. I am looking for the next thing on him to sort out. I suspect it is in either the head haha go me, or the bobbin area. Sometimes he just hates to dip his needle down and pull up. I redid his upper tension, and the bobbin tension is fine.. again.. tight stitches.. when I first got him. I could hand rip/remove the stitches.. now I have to use a seam ripper.. so he is coming along, but being a brat!! :D
@@andytubesewing1953 my 99k will become a nice hand crank, if I can not sort it's motor out, other than this.. it's clean as a whistle.. was not used much at all.. was amazed.. took a trip to the other side of the mountains to pick it up :)
@@tunesandjams-lisa My, my, my. So, stubborn is being stubborn. Who knew? You did oil al of the 34 oil points before you started, right? They are shown in the Instruction Manual here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 You may as well download the free Service Manual here while you are at it: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf These may help you understand the connections from the camshaft to the needle. Like the camstack goes around, and a follower drags along a zigzag disc and the lever on the end of the follower moves a paddle on a Needle Bar Driving Arm and the arm moves a Vibrating Bracket that swings the needle bar back and forth; zig and zag. So a bad or too narrow or missing ZZ stitch can be something that does not move as intended. It may be a lack of oil or dirty parts, or out of adjustment parts or even missing parts sometimes, but it is always better to start will lubrication at the minimum. It makes sense that a clean and lubricated part will function better. The "Trouble" Playlist has videos about the lifter/followers and other parts like this video you commented on. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
The Playlist for Regina Model 403A has some same type videos th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html but also one for the Vibrating Bracket th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html
I've lost track of how many ZZ problems went away upon oiling or cleaning and oiling a vibrating bracket.
@@tunesandjams-lisa I've found many motor problems are actually a foot pedal out of adjustment or dirty and not supplying power to the motor properly. Of course, motors can have problems, but foot pedals wear out much faster than motors. My Playlist for "Cute" a model 99 has videos for most of the parts on the machine, including the motor and the foot pedal. Maybe they can help you before you transition to a hand crank (unless you want a crank) th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html
Hello Andy. Your videos are top notch. The framing and lighting are good and your commentary is very clear. Thank you for all your time to make these.
I have a comment about greasing the worm and the worm gear of the camstack. I looked but have not found an instruction in the service manual for greasing those.
I suspect that it is because the worm and worm gear are actually oiled via the two holes on top of the camstack.
The bight amplitude and pattern selector has a gutter to collect the oil from the camstack holes on both sides of center nut and deliver it to two places. The first place is to the worm. The second is to the ball end of the needle bar driving arm.
Daniel
Thank you, Daniel. I have been hearing lately about this idea of a gutter and oil draining holes on the bight amplitude selector and oiling the camstack. I've never seen instructions for greasing the Disc Driving Worm Wheel and Worm Gear in the instruction manual or service manual of the model 401A. You mention the holes on both sides of the center nut on the camstack and they deliver oil to two places.
It's my opinion, based on reading manuals and speaking with retired repairmen, that you never put oil on a gear in a Singer sewing machine. Only grease should be used on the metal gears. So having an amplitude gutter deliver oil to the worm gear is incorrect for me. In the instruction manuals for model 401 there are explicit instruction for oiling and grease the machine, minus the armshaft worm gear and and worm wheel gear. I think those were serviced at the store during the recommended annual servicing. Anyone can download a free copy of the 116-page instruction manual directly from Singer. It is at the top of this list: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401
Instructions for lubrication start on page 89. The only place it shows to oil the camstack is through the center hole of the Screw Stud. I have some videos showing where and how I grease a worm screw and also the disc driving worm gear on the bottom of the camstack that meshes with the worm gear. I use the TriFlow Clear Synthetic Grease. Here is a video about removing, cleaning, replacing and timing a camstack. At 57:45 I demonstrate how I grease the wheel gear before reinstalling it;
th-cam.com/video/aphiW06yp64/w-d-xo.html I also have a short video showing this method on a 403A: th-cam.com/video/lM3E4qQ8aUw/w-d-xo.html There are many other machines that have this kind of mechanism; basically most ZZ machines use a wheel gear to the arm shaft worm gear and here is a video I made after many requests about cleaning that area and applying fresh grease: th-cam.com/video/_SuIiVok64k/w-d-xo.html
Any owner of any of these machines can oil and grease anyway they like, of course.
I have used the principle that is No Oil On Gears, Only Grease on Metal Gears, Nothing on Plastic Gears ( except the Textolite Gear on the Handwheel.)
I never worked for Singer or anyone else to repair machines. I did meet with a couple of retired Singer guys when they Snowbirded down here in Arizona over the winter for years. Working on Vintage Singer Machines is a hobby for me and making the videos is my attempt to help people have information to repair and service their own machine. I had family and friends asking so many questions b/c either they could not find anyone to service the machine (it can't be fixed, here buy this new one) or the quoted repair prices were very prohibitive. Thanks for saving your machine and for watching my channel. Take care, Daniel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi again Andy.
Thank you for your reply. I did not expect such a carefully written reply! You and I share the love of sewing machines mechanisms, I would say. I am not writing to argue but rather to share thoughts about a mysterious design feature of these machines.
I have 3 Singers machines, models 600, 500J and 411G. The owner's manual for the 600 does show to oil one side hole of the camstack in addition to the middle hole. The manuals for the 500J and the 411G do not, even if they all have the same mechanism. I would like to send you a photo of the 600 manual's lubrication figure on top of page 46. That is what made me think recently that the gutter is a design feature for oil collection.
You raise very good points that Singer instructs to put only grease on the gears. However instructions for greasing the worm is not included in the scanned copies of the service manuals for the machines (the 175 page version), neither on the one for the 401A nor in the one for the 500. This is not an oversight in my view, as everything else is there in those manuals.
In addition, the sides holes in the cams are aligned at the same location on all metal cams from top to bottom. The plastic hat cams also have one single side hole. Why would Singer go into the trouble of putting side holes into every one of the metal and plastic cams if not for a purpose?
If you look closely at the bight amplitude and pattern selector, you will see a gutter. The side holes of the cams happen to be in direct line above the gutter. The gutter is sloped in two directions and at the bottom of the slopes are two holes. Looking from above with the camstack removed, the hole closest to the needle bar driving arm feeds oil to the ball end of the arm. Now looking the at second hole, you will see that it is located above the worm, closest to the rear of the machine.
Thank for again for your reply and for reading my comments.
Kind regards,
Daniel
It seems you have it figured out, Daniel. I have never thought about it that much. I do see the 600 manual shows to oil the single hole, yet othr 600 series models have the dual hole stack and do not show to oil the holes. I couldn not say why. I wonder why there is alwasy grease on the worm gear when I buy a machine. You have a nice collection of machines, some unique models. Congratulations.
Thank you Andy for sharing your expertise
👍 Very welcome.
This is a good tutorial. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome, John. I'm glad you found it helpful. Here are the other 15 videos I made for model 401A; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Thanks Andy, these videos are a very good translation of what's in the adjuster's manuals, which can sometimes be a bit dense. Pulled the cam stack out of a 500A I just got and found a button underneath. :/
Thank you. I'll always wonder how a button got inside the arm, haha. Thanks for keeping your machine in service.
Thank you for your videos. I have a small size real old fashion Singer sewing machine. It looks like the first ones made. I bought it to learn how they are made. The foot motor just runs in a high speed.
Can you give me a model number of the machine? A serial number? A link to a picture of the machine or foot controller? I have videos for repairing a few different kinds of foot control pedals. How to find a Singer Model Number: www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model
Looks very easy. I use to work in A pharmaceutical Plant we had ti learn how do tear apart each machine and put it back together also clean oil and lube them every 2 weeks. So I can do it
Yes, straight forward and easy to do. Your work at the plant was more involved than this cam stack. You'll enjoy how rewarding it is to see the clean cam stack. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I have bought 2 503 A both need this done and one the Black clip to the right of Bobbin case flops all over Have had it to the repair shop 2 times and they can not figure out what I'm talking about I bought a 401 A yesterday for 25.00 and can not get it to Zig Zag thought this might help
@@cathyscreations1954 The floppy black clip is called the Bobbin Case Position Bracket and it needs to slide under a spring clip inside the bed to the right. That is what puts tension on the bracket to keep it in place. See this video at about 26:50 for installation instructions th-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/w-d-xo.html Your $25 model 401A won't ZZ? hehe, that's cute. So, have you cleaned the machine and oiled it to factory specs? Are the two front knobs setting properly on the ZZ settings? Can you tell if the lifters and followers under the arm cover are actually tracking the ZZ pattern disk? Yeah, it's a mechanical machine with lots of moving parts. Like the Tin Man whom Dorothy found who could barely move until she oiled him up a little. I have several other videos for model 401A that deal with the parts that make the ZZ work. They can be found in a playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html My playlists for models 403A, 404, and 503A can be helpful as they have many of the same parts as model 401A They are all on my playlist page, listed by model number. th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists You can download free copies of the original instruction manuals for your machine direct from Singer Support at this link: www.singer.com/support Just put the model number in the search box next to "VIEW MANUALS". Singer Manuals are very informative and besides explaining how to use all the features of the machine they also show where to apply oil & grease. Their Service Manuals they wrote for the repairmen are quite good also and you can find free copies for your models on this page: sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/ You have two of the finest Domestic Sewing Machines Singer made. In today's dollars, they cost about $3000 each when new. 👀 so you got a nice bargain.
Excellent!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm so glad I watched this video, thank you! My timing is over an inch off. I couldn't figure out why my stitches looked so odd. 🤭 You make it look so easy I can hardly wait to go fix my machine.
Glad it was helpful! Hopefully that will fix it and you are back to sewing. Thank you for commenting. Take care.
Andy, I followed you word for word on this video for a Singer 500A. I was told the only reason this machine was not doing any other stitches. Other than a straight stitch, was due to cracked cams. Or dirty cams, after following you on the video. It still won't zigzag or any other fancy stitch. By the way the cams were dirty. And what a wonderful lesson, at least I did it. But can you shed some light on why it didn't work? 500A and all it does is a straight, although it's a pretty stitch. Thank you for the help, I love your videos.
Cracked Cams? No kidding? That's a new one for me. I've never encountered it. All parts on the machine are connected and work together, normally. If you can not zigzag but you can straight stitch the needle bar is going up and down and the feed dog is feeding fabric and the motor is running so you're off to a good start.
The needle bar is not "swinging" or moving left and right so no ZZ. The vibrating bracket holds the needle bar and allows it to swing. The needle bar driving arm makes the vibrating bracket work. Two small devices push on the needle bar driving arm. They are called followers. They follow along the edge of the pattern discs/cams. The in and out "bumps" on the disc are what moves the followers against the NBDA. When you push or pull and turn the knobs on the front of the machine (selector knobs) you are moving the followers up or down the cam stack and setting them against the disc. See?
There is something not working properly between the cam stack and the vibrating bracket. Does the follower reach the cam stack? Does the follower reach the needle bar driving arm? (the followers are situated between the cam stack, on the left side, and the "paddle" of the driving arm to the left) Is the driving arm still connected to the vibrating bracket? That's what you need to check those parts and trace the movement.
This video you commented on is part 5 of a series for a model 401A which is mechanically the same as your 500A. Part 6 of this series is about removing and replacing the knobs, lifters (that lift the followers) and the followers. Maybe watching it will help you understand the function and action of the followers. Here is the link to my playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html You may want to bookmark it as I'll be adding more videos each week. Here is the link to the knobs, lifter, follower video: th-cam.com/video/-tLtk2Zyqn8/w-d-xo.html
I have also done videos about the needle bar driving arm, like this one for the 403A, that explain that part and how it works and how to remove and replace it and the spring on it: th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html You may not need to do any work on it but watching some of it can help you understand more.
I've also done videos about the vibrating bracket the driving arm connects to and holds the needle bar. This one is on a 503A (sister to your 500A): th-cam.com/video/L9ZiWURPA-Q/w-d-xo.html
These parts are like the old song about the foot bone connects to the ankle bone, to the shin bone, knee bone, etc. and all work together. If one of the parts is out of adjustment, broken or (gasp) missing then no swinging needle and no zigzag or pattern sewing.
Without seeing inside your machine I just wanted you to have a mental picture of what should be happening inside. I think once you get the idea of what is supposed to happen you can quickly see what is not happening.
Remember you can change the playback speed on the video up to 2x speed if you like. I tend to go slower as I want people who are not familiar with working on a sewing machine to have a chance to understand. You did good with the cam stack, right?
I have over 500 videos like this one you watched, made for people just like you who would like to get a vintage Singer machine working so they can use it; you are like my "target viewer", right?
So give it a go and see what you find, and if you come across any Cracked Cams on your machine, please take pictures for me. Good luck, Shani, and thanks for watching my channel.
Andy followed the other video, cams are clean, vibrating bracket. Still only a straight stitch. Any ideas?
@@shani5491 I can't think of other advice than I have given. Perhaps you could upload a video of the machine while it is running, showing the cam stack, needle bar driving arm, vibrating bracket and needle bar in motion, or lack of motion. You can put it on your TH-cam channel or any other public viewing platform. Maybe I could spot something that way. I have seen incredibly dirty machines that sew just fine, so I'd need to see all those moving parts that make the machine zigzag stitch.
@@andytubesewing1953
When I get some extra time, I'll see what can do about a video. Thank you for the help, truely appreciate it.
@@shani5491 I understand. I've read back through my replies and just can't recommend anything else at this time, sorry, and good luck.
Just bought a 401 a it runs great but it needs a lot of cleaning. Do you have a video for cleaning the bobbin area?
Thank you for the video I really learned a lot.
Hi, Marie. Congrats on your "new" Slant-O-Matic 401A! I'll refer you to a couple of Playlists I have for Slant-O-Matic Models. The first is for your 401A with 16 videos pertaining to that model. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
The second playlist is for the sister machine, the 403A with 26 videos. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html Many of the parts on these two machines are the same. One of the 403A videos is about the bobbin area parts. th-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/w-d-xo.html I generally clean the machine and parts with a solution of Krud Kutter Cleaner and Degreaser as in this video but you can clean the hook parts, etc. without removal with common alcohol. Remove the parts you can and clean as in my video, and clean the hook area with a lint brush and alcohol and Q-Tips if needed. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Thank you very much for share your videos. God blessed you.
Yes you are welcome Petra it's nice of you to leave a comment and thanks for the blessing take care
Thank you very much, Andy! You are helping me a lot with your videos of the 401, and all the other videos. I recently got a 401g13, but it is wery similar to the 401a.. The lamp house and the top cover are slightly different on them. I have read that the G is standing for made in Germany. A is standing for America. :-). Please keep on your nice work! :-), and have a good luck! Greetings from Norway!
Thanks for watching. 401A made in Anderson, S. Carolina, USA and 401G made in Karlsruhe, Germany. Lykke til deg også.
Andy Tube Thank you for the information:-). Kan du norsk? :-)
@@hakonbhmer1760 Jeg snakker ikke norsk, men ville vise deg respekt for at du tok deg tid til å kommentere og ga meg et smil, vel vitende om at folk i Norge ser på videoene mine. jeg brukte Google Oversetter.
Nice tip . Thanks
Thank you for watching my channel
Thanks! I recently bought a 401a and it needed to be cleaned (straight stitch was breaking my top thread). I used PB Blaster to get those cams cleaned up.
Welcome, Michelle. I'm glad it helped. Thanks for sharing.✨
AWESOME!.. Andy thank you very much!
Sure, you're welcome. I'm glad it was helpful. Happy sewing.
Hi Andy, what was wrong with your front button? I seem to have the same issue.
Hi, Chris. It needed cleaning and adjusting. There are lots of moving parts on this machine to control all the settings. Please take a look at this Playlist for model 401A. One video is for freeing up stuck knobs, and another is for removing all those knobs and selectors. Other videos in the playlist are for some of the lifters and followers as well and a few other systems on the machine. It's why I prefer the 403A myself. I hope the videos will help and answer some of your questions. Thanks for watching my channel and happy 2022.
Love you, Andy! You have so much knowledge and are so kind to share with us trying to learn. Curious as to whether Dawn dishwashing soap might be more effective than Joy? They market themselves as grease cutting soap, so I was just wondering. Thank you for these videos; I have learned so much!!!
I've never used Dawn but I'm sure it works great. I've had this bottle of Joy for almost 30 years, just for cleaning parts and tools occasionally. Both soaps are made by Proctor and Gamble and the Material Saftey Data Sheets both say NO Phosphates which is all I really care about. I'm sure Google searching for "joy vs dawn soap" probably has some direct comparisons of the two. Thanks for watching my channel. Good question. Take Care.
Hello Andy, sorry if you cover this elsewhere, and I am working through your videos. I had a quick question. You mentioned at the beginning of this series things you won't cover. Restoration. I had a quick question. at 59:10 you mention the "eccentric" stud. I got 2x used 401a that I wanted to wash, like your other video showed, Should I leave that eccentric stud alone? You mention that reinstalling it has to be just right. Too tight and things bind, too loose and things rattle. Seems like that's the last of the "perfect" adjustments that are needed beside the camstack timing. Do you cover anything on this elsewhere? Thank you for all your videos.
I'm sure there must be a couple of my 600 videos that show that type of adjustment. You can download a free copy of the service manual here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf At the bottom half of page 159
you'll see instructions for "Bight Amplitude and Patter Selector."
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you again for the help and instructions. You're the best.Hope all is well with you.
@@vladimirnekic3241 I know you'll enjoy the manual. It's not the best quality, but it is free. You can buy better copies online if you wish.
Andy, I have a a 401 a and I’ve watched you cam cleaning video. The cam unit on my machine is completely bound up. It won’t move. Nothing moves on it. Yours moved freely before you started cleaning it. I removed the screws but I can’t get it apart to clean it. Any suggestion?
To be sure I understand, you have removed the stack out of the machine, but can't disassemble the parts? You saw my stack had oil all over it, even between the cams. That's kind of unusual and I think someone had recently oiled the heck out of it. It would be more common that oil had crept inside the space between the cams and then dried to a hard varnish-like condition. Like gluing the cams together. This can happen to many different parts on a machine that sat in storage for years or decades. We need to soften that dried oil up to get things moving. You can use a hairdryer or heat gun to heat up and soften the gunk, Don't burn your hands grabbing the stack when it's hot. You can use chemicals like WD40 or other penetrating oil. You can soak it in alcohol or a solution of Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser and water. Once I boiled water in an old pot from the thrift store and put a needle bar and presser bar in it. A low boil/simmer for about 5 minutes or longer and the parts could be loosened and taken apart. If I misunderstood your question, ask me again with more info and we can go from there. Thanks you for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes, this sounds exactly like my problem. I've saturated it in WD 40 and no movement. Now I've got it sitting in Dawn dish soap and water. If that doesn't work, I will try the heating method. Thank you for your great videos! They cover every single step perfectly!
@@kdeshazo1 So, you're already on the right path. Dawn is a mild degreaser so not sure it will help much. You can heat the stack to a high temp as it is all steel. I always hesitate to mention this, but you are determined. If those things don't work for me I have used something to "strike" the sides of the cams/discs. Usually near the last couple of cams. I use a 2-ounce brass hammer, but a lite tack hammer, plastic mallet, wooden mallet, etc. can work. I set the longer part of the cam on a bench or piece of wood so the last 2 or 3 cams hang over the edge and give those last ones a fairly sharp rap with my hammer. Of course, we don't want to damage the cams in any way. The idea is a sharp hit, like jarring it. I always use the chemicals and heat first. I have a friend who uses a propane torch even. That makes me nervous so I use a heat gun or hair dryer on high. Best of luck. Patience is really a virtue in this circumstance.
@@andytubesewing1953 boiling worked! Thank you!
@@kklundt1 Yippie! Nicely done and no chemicals needed. Thanks for letting us know.
Thank you for the video my timing was way off. And it was an easy fix with your help. Do you know why I am having a lot of trouble removing my special cams when I want to swap them? They are almost impossible to remove. My only guess is there is something wrong with the tri-spring.
I've never had the tri-spring cause that. The selector knob MUST be moved OFF of SPECIAL when installing or removing a disc. If not then the follower is against the disc and you are pulling against the follower and lifter and can bend/damage those parts. Once they are bent, or moved out of place, it gets worse. The followers and lifters can need cleaning and adjusting after so many years. Here is a video about that th-cam.com/video/-tLtk2Zyqn8/w-d-xo.html When people have posted a video for me to see how hard it is to remove the discs I often see they have the knob set to special when removing or the lifter height is off and the followers are still against the discs.
Solution: Hey Andy Tube I tried many things but finally figured out why my top hats were so hard to get off. The post (metal rod that holds the top hat spring in place and screws onto the top of the cam stack) was too large in diameter. It looks like it could have been from a different machine. I ordered a used one off of eBay and now it works beautifully!
Greetings Mr. Andy and thank you very much for your videos. Could you do that cleaning for a singer 700 machine, the discs are plastic, the mechanism is the same? What do you recommend.
I don't work on the Singer Touch & Sew Models, but the pictures in the Instruction Manual look the same ( www.singer.com/search/support?title=700 )
Because the 700 uses dials for stitch width and other dials you may encounter different small connecting parts than in my videos. Be sure to take plenty of pictures and take notes before you remove any parts. Here are a couple of links for buying Service Manuals and Repair and Adjusting Guides to model 700:
manualsoncd.com/product/singer-700-706-708-720-726-728-sewing-machine-service-manual/ store.tandtrepair.com/tosew700se.html
Thank you for watching my channel and good luck.
Hello Andy. Got my second Singer 401G from a nice lady nearby. She was facing some problems with the old machine and got a new one from her husband, so she gave the old Singer away for a very reasonable price. The machine is in a pretty good condition with very little oil and gunk inside, it almost looks like new. So first thing I did is to lubricate all moving parts with a good precision oil. Anyhow the zig-zag stiches look a little weird, if you look at them from the down side the left side of the stich is pulling the upper thread much more like the right side. So now I'm about to check what's the reason for that. Tomorrow I will check the timing. Thanks a lot for your perfect videos! But here's my question: You did oil the disks a little to prevent them from rusting and lubricated the gear with some grease. But if I haven't missed something, you didn't oil or greased the surface of the disks where the followers are touching them. Is it ok to have them more or less dry? Again, thanks a lot for your wonderful videos and many greetings from Germany!
EDIT 10/28 to correct follower info. Congrats on the "new" machine. I don't add oil to the sides of the discs per se. When I oil the discs for rust I wipe the excess and some oil will get to the side. I don't oil the sides because the oil transfers to the followers and when you use an insertable top disc they are a type of plastic and not metal. The follower rides on that disc when sewing and could transfer oil. I just remember the retired Singer men telling me "no oil or grease on plastic parts." That may be too old-school thinking now but I still follow that. "only grease on metal gears, and no oil or grease on plastic gears or parts" in general. There are many synthetic oils & grease now so maybe it does not matter.
Two things that came to mind about your zigzag are to be sure the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket is oiled properly as that affects the "swing" of the NB, and be sure the cam stack is timed correctly.
Hi Andy. Your instructive videos are absolutely awesome. I've often came back to revisit your directions as I forget. I recently rebuild another 401A including the Cam Stack, I didn't remove the Cam Stud, all timed good, smooth, quite. However, when running the machine at slow or higher speed, I have a cyclic occurrence where the machine slows a little, seemingly binding, and there's an associated knocking/tapping sound. I'm wondering if the Cam Stud could be bent? All ideas are surely welcome. Thank you again for your years of work building a library for the vintage sewing machines.
Hmmm... a lot of possibilities for binding, play, or backlash on this machine. The cam "stud" would be fairly hard to bend, much harder than the presser bar for example which is hard to bend. More likely that it got turned. That stud is the Worm Wheel Shaft and it is Eccentric. It meshes with the Worm (gear) on the horizontal shaft. If the mesh is too tight or loose very weird things happen. I don't know all you have done on the machine, but any of the shafts can have play or binding, the main horizontal shaft, the hood drive shaft, etc. I guess I would start with that worm wheel shaft since you did some work in the area. I'd remove the cam stack again and run the machine. If the problem is gone try reinstalling the stack and be double sure you >>> meshed it with the eccentric shaft worm wheel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. Well I took several of your points of advise. Not sure if it was the cam stack and eccentric or saw your needle take-up binding on 327K Spartan and did that work, maybe a little of both, but "Hassle" cousin to "Trouble" is smooth now. I"ll continue to check all points of setup and hopefully try some sewing this coming weekend. I tip my hat to you for your perseverance reading through the Singer Service Manual, it's quite the manual, kinda like engineering code manuals which I'm use to, ARG. Anyway, thank you so much again for your suggestions and informative and fun TH-cam videos. I"d like to support your work & endeavors so how would I do that? Maybe PayPal?
@@TrygR1 Oh, good news! I agree it could have been some of each. Before I remove screws I always look closely, even with a magnifier, to see if there are tool marks on it. Sometimes we "readjust" settings and get them a tiny bit off. We don't notice at the time, but they add up and can get to the point it becomes noticeable. I used a lot of service manuals in my Bell System Phone career so I'm used to that. The vintage Service Manuals are nicely done, IMO. They have helped me many times. Engineering code manuals sound worse to me, haha. Thanks for asking about supporting my channel. I appreciate it and I have a PayPal account for viewers to do that. www.paypal.com/paypalme/andytube?locale.x=en_US
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. Hassle (born in 1960) is running great. Yes someone had been into it before by indications on screw heads as you mentioned & discovered my bobbin tension wasn't right so upon inspection, found the spring tension screw gone, ARG. No worries, found another 401A (Gracious, born in 1957, $20) but she's too nice to use parts. Hope to find bobbin case tension spring screw or another complete bobbin case holder. In the mean time, I'm disassembling Gracious for a good bath. Thank you again for your dedication in creating the instructional videos. Hope you're doing well, have a Merry Christmas, and may God bless you & family
@@TrygR1 Thanks for the blessings and happy holidays.
My mum was a seamstress extraordinaire. She bought one of these machines back in 1959, and used it for many years. It was a faithful workhorse. Sadly she is no longer here, but her old machine is still working fine. Mind you it is a little noisier. I wish she was around to watch these videos, because she wasn't afraid to do any maintenance. After her passing I came across someone selling one of these, and couldn't resist going to look at it. It was in brand new condition, and the lady never used it because she thought there was something wrong with it. I got the machine and a beautiful table it was mounted in for $75.00. When I got it home I discovered the only thing wrong with it was the bobbin case wasn't installed properly. It does seem a little finicky to get in at times though. It runs silky smooth. The only thing I notice is that sometimes when reversing through thicker material, the needle jams against what I am assuming is the hook, could the timing be off a touch, or is this normal?
That was sure a find1 so your name is really John "Lucky" B then, right? Nicely done. We tend to forget that these are mechanical all-metal machines that need oil on a regular basis. The old oil can get dry, sticky and even form a kind of varnish. Fresh oil is usually a good thing for them. Just Sewing Machine oil is good. Anyone who needs it can go to Singer and download a FREE copy of the original Instruction Manual. www.singer.com/search/support?title=401
The Manual on top of the list is the longer one and the 4th manual down is abbreviated but both have the three pages of where to put oil & grease. I often forget to oil the hook race to the side of the bobbin case.
The needle should never jam against anything. On thicker items, the needle is into the material longer. The feed dog is timed to the needle stroke and will be pulling the fabric along even if the needle is still in the fabric. Don't try to "help" the fabric along. Our timing is not as good as the machine and we can force or delay the material which will make the needle flex into the hook. Use more presser foot pressure or get a "Roller" foot or a "Walking" foot and let the machine do all the work. Yes, the timing could be a tiny bit off, I have seen that. Not enough to cause skipped stitches, but enough of a delay that the inside part of the hook is already coming at the needle. If you combine that plus thicker fabric causing flex then maybe that is what is happening on your machine. I have a recent video about timing the hook on a model 403A. It's actually pretty good and it would be the same procedure to check and/or set the timing on your 401A. th-cam.com/video/cHkqoYYlvRE/w-d-xo.html It's not hard to check the timing, and then you could eliminate it as a problem, or reset it if it's off. Thinking of your mom, I'm guessing the timing is OK, but check it anyway.
Best of luck, Mr. Lucky. Take Care.
Okay, thanks for the great information.
@@johnb5519 No worries, good luck.
Your videos are always wonderful.This model with two follows,there are more patterns available.how many without special cams?thank you
Thanks. I think the built-in cam does at least 21 but probably many more. I never counted. Here is a chart comparing the patterns for the 401A to the 403A www.pinterest.com/pin/43276846399887099/ You can download the instruction manual for free and see the pattern info it contains: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 Thanks for watching my channel.
Do you have any videos where you remove, clean and replace the bight amplitude and pattern selector (the silver circle shown at 58:46)? Mine is dirty and so is the area underneath it. Thanks.
Sorry, I do not. I've never had to remove it but just clean around it. The Service Manual shows the steps to remove it on paged 159. Anyone needing a copy of the Service Manual can download it free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
Thanks for asking and good luck.
Andy Tube Thanks, Andy for your response. I have the service manual and I see I need to remove screw T6. I wasn’t going to remove the part unless you had a video showing how to remove and replace. Since you don’t, I will not remove, but just clean around. Today is the day for the shower 🧼 for my 500. I would never would have even thought to undertake this before I found your channel. Thank you!
You're welcome. Yes, loosen screw T6 and remove the whole camstack with the eccentric worm wheel shaft. Putting that shaft back in properly is the tricky part. It can certainly be done. You have to have the top half pointed a certain way and turn it into the worm gear just right. Not too tight because it will bind and not too loose because it will have play. That's why I prefer not to remove or adjust it if it is already working well. For those who wonder where screw T6 is on page 159, it is not there, hehe. C_f_a is talking about a model 500A and not the 401A as I thought. It is the same process on both models with different part numbers. The free 500A Service Manual is here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf On model 401A it is screw "X8" while on the 500A it is the "T6" screw. Have a nice shower then, C_f_a and enjoy how clean it turns out. Take Care.
Thank you so much. I did the cam stack but now have no idea where the spring goes. Help please.
if you mean the long spring with hooks at both end you can see one end of it at 2:45 in this video after I remove the driving arm: th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html
The other end is up in the nose and hooks to the bottom of a pon for the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket. I talk about it at 8:22 in this other video: th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes. That's the one. I discovered that it is called a needle bar driving arm spring and I just kept watching your videos until I finally saw it. Your videos help so much. Sending a token of my appreciation to your PP.
Thank you!
@@user-px7nh7vs4b Happy you found it and thanks for the comments.
Dear Andy, thank you for this (one more) amazing lesson. Nothing was left behind. I have a long time probably silly question 🙋♀️ why is it that the gears can’t be oiled but only greased? Thank you so much
Knowledge is power and learning is joy. The only silly question is the one not asked. I asked both of my retired Singer Repairmen about this years ago because I saw in some INstruction and Service Manual not to put oil (like NEVER) on the gears, all in bold caps. They were trained that the grease will stay on the gear longer and hold up longer than oils. Many of the Singer machines like the 401A have what they called "open" gears, meaning they were not sealed in a space that was packed with grease. Oil would fly off the gears quickly and the gears would heat up fast. Oil was preferred for bearings, bushings, like for the needle bar and presser bar and arm shafts. These two guys were the first to explain to me that grease is just oil with one or more "thickeners" to change the viscosity. I know nothing about Industrial Sewing Machines but have been told that many of them have sealed containers over some of the parts and oil is pumped around and through the contained area to keep the parts cooler and avoid friction. In that situation, they said oil actually works better than grease. Whew!, I hope that helps, but I know there is a continuing debate between what is best, grease or oil. My approach is that the designers and makers of the machines (Singer, and SIMANCO) trained their techs and advised their customers to only put grease on gears and to never put oil on them. That is good enough for me. Thank you for watching my channel, Paula, and happy sewing.
Great explanation and thank you for the encouragement too. You’re so right there’s a special joy in learning. For now it’s been mostly happy disassembling, cleaning, reassembling, oiling and greasing ;) Later I’ll hopefully also get to the happy sewing hehe. Have a nice weekend!
@@paulamendes5907 I don't even know how to sew! If you see me doing test sewing you know what I mean, haha. Plenty of time for sewing in your future anyway. Have fun with the machines while you can is my motto.
Hi Andy, So glad to see you are back. Your videos are a wonderful resource. I have a 401A that I must set the needle selector to 4 to keep the needle centered. Any ideas on how to correct this?
Thank you, Johnnie. I think the adjustment is "to centralize the needle bar driving arm...." on page 141 of the service manual that you can download free at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
I'd suggest downloading the 500A Service Manual also. The machines are the same mechanically (for the most part) and sometimes the pictures are better in one or the other manual. Here is that link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf If my suggestion is not the correct adjustment needed, you will have the manuals to search through for a better answer. Besides, when you get a 500A to restore 👀 you'll already have the manual for it 😀 Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I bought a kenmore 158.161 sewing machine. When I put a cam in, the little black thing won't press against the cam and make the stitch. It's very loose. I feel like it might be missing a spring. Would you know anything about those? Thanks. Love your videos. I have lots of machines but none so far are Singers, tho.
Thanks for watching my channel, Anne. I only restored one Kenmore machine years ago. That was enough to learn that parts, parts manuals and service manuals are hard to impossible to find. I never worked on any more. There is a old Sears website that you can sometimes find parts manual pages. The idea was to identify the part and part number so you could order it. They have some pages for Kenmore 158.161 and if click on a page it enlarges the picture. They you can do a screen grab and save it to your records if you want. The diagrams are similar to most parts manuals with an exploded view of the parts. Maybe you can look at some of the pages and at least see if you have the parts on your machine. Here is the web pages I'm talking about: www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5by43yyp95-000582/kenmore-158161-mechanical-sewing-machine-parts When I do this with SInger machines I can often search Google for the part by name and number and sellers show up, like on eBay for example. If you are missing a part you'll usually have to find someone selling parts off a machine;
parting out" a machine. One parts seller I have used for Singer also has some Kenmore parts from a few models: www.thriftyfarmgirl.com/sewing-machine-parts.htm I also see an eBay seller that is sellihng some parts for your model: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=kenmore+model+158.161+sewing+machine&_sacat=0 Maybe you can use the parts pages to recognize a missing part and find it on eBay? Good Luck, and next time look for a nice SInger please 😀 th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists
Bonjour merci pour la video super .Tu peux me dire a ou je peux achter les disc cam j'ai la meme machine mais manque les disc cam
Si vous voulez dire les caméras à motif noir, elles s'appellent Singer Top Hat Cams et peuvent être trouvées sur eBay et Facebook marketplace www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw= Chanteur+Couture+Machine+Top+Chapeau+Cams+&_sacat=0
Si vous parlez de la pile de cames en métal en haut au centre de la machine, vous devez en trouver une d'occasion. J'achète sur eBay pour cela www.ebay.com/itm/153374343655?hash=item23b5d2c1e7:g:LbsAAOSwiHBdI7uJ
Si vous êtes en dehors des États-Unis, je ne sais pas où vous pourriez le trouver. Merci d'avoir regardé ma chaîne, mais posez votre question une seule fois et non sur plusieurs vidéos. Merci.
Hi Andy! I🙂 have question, it's about the camstack of my singer 411G. I already watched your video showing how to remove and clean it. I followed the instructions, but in the moment that I would like to put it back inside it seems to be stuck and it's not passing... I mean that in your video it seems to slide easily.
In my case I can giggle all I want but it's not going down as it should....
I will thank you your time again because I don't find an answer again of this new problem 😭
Have nice day Andy!
Somethings I've found out. Be sure the dials are still set to A-K (or whatever straight stitch setting is on the 411G) and the Red Lever is set to 3. Those settings keep the lifters and followers to the side and below the cam stack so they will not block it.
The tolerance of the parts is very close. You must align the stack directly over the post to drop the stack straight down. If the stack is leaning in any direction, even 1 degree, it won't go on.
It sounds like you are saying your stack goes on the post but won't drop all the way down and MESH gears with the worm gear on the arm shaft. Usually gently wiggling the stack will allow the mest and then the drop down.
If that is not working try to wiggle both gears by gently wiggling the stack AND gently turning the handwheel forward and back a short distance. By moving both of them you'll have a better chance of meshing them.
Also, do not push down hard on the stack but let the weight of it rest on the worm gear. I suppose you could even rest the stack on the worm and gently move the handwheel to get the stack to drop.
Lastly, talk nicely to the stack and ask it to quit fooling around if it ever wants to work again. 😃
I have an extremely dirty (gunked up) Singer touch & sew special zig zag 626. I did clean it to the point that all the selectors and handwheel are moving. However it only stitches straight. There doesn't seem to be good or constant pressure against the "plastic" cams. What am I missing and do you have a video for machines like 626 that are not all metal. Thanks for any help.
I have no videos for touch n sew models. I looked at the parts diagram for model 626 and is shows almost the same part for the camstack, lifters, followers, and Needle Bar Driving Arm as model 401. Here is a playlist for model 401A and there are videos for the lifters and followers and cam stops. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html You can also by the 41-page Service Manual for model 626 for $8.99 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-626-sewing-machine-service-manual/
It should show how to adjust, remove, replace almost all the parts on the machine. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@andytubesewing1953 I'll watch this video. As always, thanks for your help. It feels great to bring these machines back to life, doesn't it! And the Singer 626 has one of those fun self winding bobbins.
@@bluetuber501 I hope it helps and good luck.
Got a 401a at a thrift store. It ran but I've been watching all your videos to disassemble parts, clean and put them back together! I'm having a weird problem that wasn't happening before. The CAM STACK is "jumping" up and down with almost every rotation of the hand wheel. It's only in contact with the worm wheel gear so I can't figure out what is causing it to do that.
Not knowing all that you have done with the machine means I can only guess at the cause.
Logic says you removed something, like the cam stack, and did not reinstall correctly. The worm wheel gear must mesh correctly with the worm on the horizontal arm shaft. If the mess is not complete then the gear and worm fight each other. Try reseating the cam stack.
Another thought is something I had years ago. The cam stack sits on and screws onto an eccentric shaft. That shaft is set at the factory with the top half of the eccentric pointing towards the handwheel, then the eccentric shaft is slightly turned clockwise to set the amount of mesh between the worm and worm wheel. The mesh must be close enough to provide smooth operation but not too "tight" as to cause binding and backlash. I'm wondering if you may have inadvertently twisted the cam stack and eccentric shaft while working on it. It would not take much movement clockwise to increase mesh and cause a backlash. Just a thought.
I'd advise going back over the work you have done to be sure of your reassembly, but also that you download a FREE copy of the original Service Manual for Class 401 machines. It's not the best copy quality but useable and you can get it here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Page 159 has instructions for the "Bight Amplitude and Patter Selector" that I mentioned about the eccentric stud and figure 323A on the same page has a drawing of the stud and worm and worm gear.
Don't know what else to say, really, other than good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks so much for your reply, sir!
@@PaulandChuckJohnson good luck
Hello Andy, could you make a video on how to center the needle? The needle is suppose to be centered on AK3, but mine is centered on the dash on the left of the 3, it's not a big thing but it makes my zig zag a bit to near of the plate, could you show us how to put it back in the center please? (I have a singer 401J)
I have not made videos for a while now due to my health. I don't think I ever made a needle-centering video for the 401 model. It's an adjustment up on the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket. I can direct you to a free copy of the original service manual for your machine where it does have directions for doing that. See page 142 sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf It helps to have the straight stitch needle plate, but you can use the ZZ needle plate if you eyeball it closely.
You’re the best!!! I was looking for this service manual, thank you so so much! I have the straight stitch needle plate! Yes!!
I am so sorry to know that you’re having health issues, I hope you will get better, I really love your videos, we can feel how passionate you are about these machines and about teaching. You are a great teacher! Take care of yourself as you would with your machines ;)
@@Cass_772 Sounds like you're all set then. Remember, it is not always what you think, so test before taking and adjustment steps. Wish I could watch you work b/c I think you are having so much fun.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes I really do! I cleaned the cam stack yesterday and I can't zero-it-out perfectly, I'm about 1mm off, so today I will make some adjustment since I watched your video on it. I understand that when you move one thing, you have to adjust something else (like the butterfly effect) but I am super patient for machines so I will take my time, until it's perfect. Also, I will read that entire manual to make sure I really understand what I do. I wish you could watched me work!! It would be sooo awesome! Have a beautiful day Andy!
@@Cass_772 When I was learning to work on the machines the hardest part was learning patience. I'm not normally a patient guy, but I finally got it. I also learned to avoid frustration by walking away from a problem for a while rather than get frustrated. Patience & persistence have served me well with the machines. Also, never let the machine boss you around, and it's OK to talk to them, hehe.
Hi Andy! So I'm taking my 401 camstack out again and cleaning the gears below. Also the camstack parts :). Did you mention whether the cams get a little oil between them (or brushed lightly with oil) before stacking? Also - the gears below and to the side of the stack. Those get grease, correct? Thank you so much for your valuable info!
Yes, Grease on the gears. Never oil on the gears. Yes, I put a light coating of oil on the steel pattern cams and then wipe it in and off with a rag. I do that because I usually use a degreaser and have stripped every bit of oil off of them. So I just want to give them a little protection from rust or the elements not to lubricate them because once they're together they don't move against each other. Thanks for keeping that 401a in service
Thanks so much! Yes, I use your 25/75 KrudKutter solution now for most pieces - works great! I'll give the cams a slight coat of Triflow oil and now that the gears under the stack are all clean, a brushing of Triflow grease!@@andytubesewing1953
@@MyMike509 You're welcome and thank you for keeping that machine and service 💕
Your videos are fantastic! I've used them to restore 2 301s, a 221 and now a 401a which was very, very dirty. Cleaned the cam stack and re-timed as per your video. However, the stitch patterns seem to be one off by one letter for the back lifter / front knob (A-J). Does this mean the machine is contacting the wrong disc in the stack or that I need to re-adjust the timing mark to the back follower? Thanks for all you do.
Thanks for saving all those machines, Kathy. My first thought is the index pin setting is off and the lifter is not raising to the correct spot. Take a look please at this video and see what you think. th-cam.com/video/di8ruyC-bow/w-d-xo.html
You know where all the 401A videos are in this playlist, right? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you. I checked the Index Pins and they seemed ok although I don't have a feeler gauge. I did nudge the timing mark just a hair. The Follower isn't very pointy and it's hard to tell what is considered aligned. It may have been as simple as sitting down and observing the pattern selector knobs straight on to be sure to have the correct letters selected. Patterns seem to be correct now. Thank you for everything you do to help promote the restoration of these vintage machines. Your knowledge is vast and your willingness to share that knowledge is inspiring. Bless you.
@@kathycronin8547 thanks for sharing the results, Kathy. Many people read these comments so it's great you shared this as I'm sure you are not the only person having such a problem. I appreciate you watching and commenting. Take care.
The spring in the left side came off, can you tell me what the ends attach to?
Sure, no worries. If you start watching this video at 08:20 I show where both ends of that spring are attached, th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html From the Vibrating Bracket in the nose, back to the lever that moves the paddle on the other end of the Needle Bar Driving Arm.
What kind of screws are used in the cam stack.
The 3 screws are part #51095. I don't have any reference guide for their exact size or threading. You normally don't find screws for a Singer machine at the hardware store anyway, but have to find them online, usually from a seller who is parting out the machine. The camstack for model 401A is also used on 500A. I searched eBay and found one for sale (the whole stack): www.ebay.com/itm/115475284546?hash=item1ae2dd0242:g:h5EAAOSwSm5i30uo IMO, $20 with free shipping is a reasonable price for a hard to find part.
Me again Andy, I have run into a problem. I have removed my camstack and the three top screws will not budge. I recently acquired this machine and I believe that the screws were turned too tight. The seller did a spit and polish on the machine and I believe that they merely wiped the surface gunk off of the camstack as evidenced by the hard orange residue poking out of the discs. I have been trying to loosen these screws for three days now. I have put Tri-Flow Super Lubricant on them repeatedly and come back after several minutes intervals to see if I can get the screw to budge even a little, no luck. Should I apply Krud Kutter or WD-40 to the screw area and hope for the best. In its present condition I do not know if the discs are frozen together with gunk or even if they are on in the correct order. Your advice is appreciated. Thank you!
The hard orange stuff worries me. I wonder if that is a type of rust from a reaction to whatever cleaner they used.
If you see other evidence of rust on the machine (in other spots) I would be tempted to use a rust remover dripped onto the screws. I use The Must for Rust but there are other brands.
If I did not think it is rust I have a couple methods I use in no particular order. 1. I heat the screws and the top of the stack. I normally use a hairdryer on high heat/low air flow and get it good and hot. After it cools enough to hold with work gloves I try the screws again. The principal of this is the heat expands the metal and as it cools it contracts. We are trying to break the "seal" between the screw and screw-hole enough to turn.
2. This is a tap-and-turn method and you may need a 3rd hand if the stack is out of the machine. This method is trying to break the seal by a sharp short jarring method while turning the screwdriver at the same time. I use a 2oz brass jeweler hammer so you see you are just giving it sharp short raps... rep-rap-rap-rap while turning. Not driving in a nail, so if a larger hammer do not hit too hard. This has worked very well for me and it's a joy to hear that sharp "snick" when the screw breaks free. I have also used a combination of these two methods, kind of back and forth on the worst stuck screws.
Other viewers have told me they have used a heat gun (ok) and even a propane torch (scary for me) to heat the screws. Others have told me, on a piece like a stack, they have put it in an old pot and set it to boil/simmer for a while to loosen things up. Kind of like the long slow version of the hairdryer, I guess.
A soldier in Afghanistan said they boiled a needle bar/needle clamp/needle in a pot with water and some Krud Kutter type of degreaser for an hour and then got it apart.
That's about it. Sorry you're having such an adventure with this machine, but you have to admit you are learning new things 😀
@@andytubesewing1953 I managed to get one screw out last week but nothing since. I have tried the flooding with Tri-Flow method, the hot hair dryer method, the taping method, and as soon as I receive my "The Must for Rust" order I will try the boiling water with Krud Kutter method. I don't want to do it without the ability to deal with flash rust. In the meantime I purchased a recycled one from an Etsy vendor. I am not giving up on my cam stack but now I will have the luxury of determination and perseverence to show these stuck cam stack screws who is boss! Will let you know if I am successful.
@@ritagoldman7232 Some progress then, but wow, you have a stubborn screw there. You have a rare but not unheard-of case. I admire your determination. Yes, with a vintage electro-mechanical machine you must be the boss or the machine will misbehave frequently, haha. Good luck.
What model/size of ultrasonic do you recommend that'll work for most machines? The one I use is a cheap $20 from amazon and it doesn't fit most shafts I pull.
th-cam.com/video/EI_3eZ89E2Y/w-d-xo.html The only Ultrasonic I've used
When the eccentric cam stack shaft has been removed how do you tell when you have it back in correctly. The service manual says to face it towards the wheel! What side do you face towards the hand wheel?
There are three steps to the reinstallation of the cam stack shaft.
1. install the cam stack shaft with the eccentric upper part of the shaft towards the handwheel. Look at Fig. 323A on page 159 of the service manual. You see that the top part of the shaft is off-center (eccentric) from the bottom part of the shaft. That upper eccentric part should be facing the handwheel end of the machine. So from the bottom of the shaft, the shaft goes straight up, then has a "jog" to the right. That jog to the right is eccentric and you face it toward the handwheel.
***👉 Usually I can see the mark of the set screw X8 on the bottom of the shaft before I set it into the machine so I look for that mark and face it toward me b/c that's how it was when I took it out. 👈***
You can't always see that mark but most of the time it is there. When you have the Needle Bar Driving Arm Ball Pivot engaged into the Pattern Selector you are ready for the 2nd step.
2. You must "set the mesh" between the worm (teeth on the arm shaft) and the worm wheel (teeth on the bottom of the Pattern Selector). Mesh means the way the teeth of the two parts come together. You set the mesh by turning the shaft clockwise (right) while turning the handwheel. When you feel the handwheel starts to bind a little bit (harder to turn) then stop and turn the camstack shaft back to the left a tiny bit until the handwheel turns easily again. You may have to play with it a little, like turning back and forth to get the feel of the mesh. Make small adjustments. If the mesh is too tight it is hard for the motor to turn the shaft and you lose power and speed for sewing. If the mesh is too loose the arm shaft and cam stack move apart & together and create a backlash effect that is rough and noisy.
3.. When you have the mesh set properly then tighten Screw X8 against the cam stack shaft so it won't move and change the mesh you set. That's the screw behind the lampshade that you loosened to remove the cam stack shaft.
Do you have any suggestions for a cam stack that won't come apart? I haven't been able to budge it at all.
So, you have it out of the machine but all the parts are stuck like glue. For myself and other viewers, we have had success boiling the stack in plain water. It's all metal so no harm done. Usually, I have found the discs stuck together with decades of old, dried-up oil that binds like varnish. If you don't like the boiling idea you can try heating with a hairdryer or using a degreaser like KrudKutter or a penetrating oil like WD40 or PB Blaster. Honestly, boiling seems to work the best and no chems installed. A viewer in Germany fixed her 431G by boiling and she said she made "cam stack soup". haha. 😀Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you
@@toobacat 👍
Hey Andy, I just worked on the cam stack of a 401A I found this weekend. It was fun and this video made it easy! In the process, that long spring that sits at the left side of the machine and attaches to somewhere in the middle area came off. Also, it was the wrong spring so I just ordered the right one. I remember years ago this happened and you were able to help me remedy the problem. The problem now is I can’t find my notes of how to do that and it seems like everything just moves all around in there without that spring. Do you happen to have a good clear picture of how the inside looks with everything intact? I do have other slant machines but I just wasn’t sure if any of them have the same spring. Before I pull them out to look, I thought I would ask you first. Thanks
Hmm... The long spring from the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket to the Paalde stop lever near the camstack?
Here is where it connects to the NBVB VB end- th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html @ 8:20
Here is where it connects to the Paddle Stop, see it behind the Needle Bar Driving Arm after I lift it away @ 2:44
of this video - th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html Is this what you need? BTW, it really helps me if you list a specific time in the video for what you are asking about. I have 600 videos and answer a lot of questions about them and it would same me a lot of time. Thanks
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy I kept looking and watching your videos and I was able to do some screenshots of the visual I need to put the spring back. In fact, there’s a lady out there that did a video for this particular issue and I noticed in the comments people were asking where the other side of the spring was. Her video only covered the side that goes to the paddle. Anyway, I put the machine on the shelf and I’m just waiting for the correct spring to come in. Thanks again for responding and I’ll try to be more specific next time.
Andy can I use this video for my 500?
You sure can those mechanical parts are the same on model 401a and 500A thanks for watching
Andy I bought a 500 for $25. but its pretty siezed up. I have used some cleaner and its staring to turn but its really sluggish. The bobbin winder works perfect and runs fast so I dont think its the motor. In fact when I lay it on it's back it runs fast, but as soon as I put it upright its sluggish again. Not sure I have the skills to take every part off for cleaning but I fear thats what is needed.
.
I take the parts off b/c I'm restoring the machine, but it is not always necessary for sewing. About your machine running fast on its back but slow in the normal upright position. That makes me think the BOBBIN CASE is not installed correctly. When on its back the case will have less pressure but when upright it may be dragging or jamming on the rotary hook. The easy test is to just remove the BOBBIN CASE and see. The two playlists I have that relate to your machine are the 503A Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html and the 401A Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html You can get free downloads of the manuals too. The Instruction Manual: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-owners-manual.pdf The complete Service Manual: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf I don't think the cam stack is causing your problem so I would remove the bobbin case as a first step. Best of luck, and thanks for rescuing that machine.
Hey, Andy! Thank you so much for your informative videos. Saw the whole of this one unfortunately the problem with my singer 611g needle position is still persisting :'-(
i think it has no relation to the cam stack.
th-cam.com/video/4tFbKNlHztI/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/L9ZiWURPA-Q/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/89kRREixTeA/w-d-xo.html
Will cleaning the cam stack solve an issue with skipped stitches? What’s the best way to clean the inside of the machine and get old grease off the arms from the stitch selectors?
Welcome to Andy Tube, SS.
clean cam stack/solve skipping = probably not; a slight chance. Many other things can cause skipping. A deep clean of the machine can eliminate many causes and problems and if it still skips you will be adjusting a clean machine. First, you can download a free copy of the Service Manual which shows how to remove, replace, and adjust most of the parts.
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
If you don't want/can't do what I'm going to suggest here then at least you have the manual to work with. The best way to clean and remove old grease is to take off whatever parts you want, but at least the motor. Pre-treat the machine on the bench with a solution of Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser, being careful of the painted surfaces. Then take the machine into the shower and spray it off with the KK at about 20% solution, rinse well with plain water, dry it very, very well and start oiling it right away. Do not wait on the oiling.
Then put back any parts you took off and start your sewing tests again. If you still have stitching problems (or any other problems) you can follow the service manual for adjusting things like the needle bar, hook timing, needle position, centering the needle bar driving arm, Zero-out the machine, clean and adjust the tension assembly and maybe adjust the hook to needle clearance, to name a few.
Many/most of those may not be required if you have cleaned and oiled the machine well. You can watch over 100 videos on my channel about the parts on your machine and adjusting them, the motor, and the foot controller.
The main Playlists on mine that pertain to your model follows here:
401A = th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
403A = th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html
503A = th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
Speed up the motor for $10 = th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html
Restore/Rehab the whole motor = th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
Restore/Rehab the foot controller = th-cam.com/video/9OC79P3UWXY/w-d-xo.html
If you are curious about cleaning your machine in the shower, this video is an example of how to do it = th-cam.com/video/N3oYsTBJrFI/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for subscribing to my channel. You know where to find me if you need help in the future. Good Luck.
Andy Tube thank you for all the information! I wish I could save this reply for future reference. I’m still working on the cam stack but want to clean inside as well so the machine just might be taking a shower!
I often save commnets by highlighting them with right click hold drag copy and pating them into a work program. Some people have shared great info. You can save the video page to your favorites. The comments stay on the video. Take care.
I have another question, what should be done if the cam stack just won’t come out
It may be stuck with dried-up oil. You can try getting a penetrating oil under it, you can try heating it with a hair dryer (be patient) you can dismantle it in place or partially dismantle it until getting better access to the side of the center post and adding the WD40 type product.
Any tips for removing those top screws? I removed two but one is stubborn and I’ve ruined two screw drivers trying to get it out.
It's fortunate you only damaged the screwdriver and not the screw. Replacing the screw could cost more if you can find them. You can try a penetrating oil, like WD40, to soften any dried oil down in the threads. I also have used heat, like a heat gun or hairdryer. Another method that has been successful is using a small/lightweight hammer to whack the screwdriver while trying to turn it at the same time. I use a 2-ounce jewelers hammer so I'm not trying to hammer in a nail, just give it some good "shocks" to get it loose and moving. Using hollow-ground or straight-edged screwdrivers helps very much. The ones I bought came with a small rachet that applies about 3 times the torque and has helped me get many stubborn screws out. Typical screwdrivers have tapered ends that do not fit the slots very well. Here is the set I bought so you can see what I mean: chapmanmfg.com/pages/sewing-machine-repair-screwdriver-sets
@@andytubesewing1953 thinking that would be the advice would give - I dripped some oil and let it set over night and this morning I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE the screw! THANK YOU SO MUCH! I just LOVE your videos!
Now of course I can’t get the discs apart LOL
@@shannonsimpson485 Hahaha 🤣 I'm laughing with you, not at you. It's part of the adventure of working on vintage items. I've had that several times. It's usually been dried oil sticking them together. Spraying with the penetrating oil can get them apart. Last time, on a 500A, my wife put the cam stack in an old mixing bowl and poured boiling water over them. By the time the water was cool enough to touch, the discs were laying in a pile, all loose, on the bottom of the bowl. They are made of solid steel and not much can harm them unless you really try to. Hoping you already have them apart. Thanks for saving that poor machine.
@@shannonsimpson485 👍
When you remove the cam stack, there is a vertical pin that hold the cam stack
Do you know what's the right way to put it back that pin if took it off? Thank you
That is an eccentric shaft that has to be turned a certain way upon insertion and the top part adjusted to set the mesh of the worm wheel gear to the worm gear on the horizontal shaft. That is how you adjust the gear mesh so not too tight and binding, but not loose with the play that makes noise and jumps the shaft. My best advice is to go to this link and download a FREE copy of the SERVICE MANUAL sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf take a look at page 159 for pictures and written instructions. You can get this right, Gabriel, just take your time. Good luck.
Thank you Andy Tube for your answer, I will. I'll let you know, OK? Have a good weekend.
@@gabrieltottzi4545 no worries and take care
Andy could you please help me? My lever to raise up and close feed dogs is loose. Should I take it to a repair person?
You should be able to fix that yourself and save money. Take a look at this video that covers the bracket. You don't need to remove all the stuff as I did but maybe just tighten something up th-cam.com/video/n1LSM-BZw9k/w-d-xo.html If this is not what you're asking about let me know and good luck. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 oh Andy, you are a jewel. I’m going to try this when my shoulder heals from surgery. I think this is just what it needs. My machine has been in my family since it was new and only serviced ( I’m going to learn to do this myself) and probably needs a good cleaning and lint removed. I feel so much more confident because of your videos. I have 2 other 401’s that need work so I may practice on them. One of them the zigzag won’t stay connected after stitching a few stitches and probably needs a good cleaning of that area as well. I am your newest fan!! Good bless you!
Rebecca
@@rebeccawilliams6931 I love a family-owned machine. My model 403A playlist of 27 videos covers most of the 401A parts:
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html
I also have a 17-video playlist for Model 401A that covers the parts not found on the 403A, like those sticky control knobs and cam stack: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Please heal fast & well and enjoy the machihes
Have you worked on the motor foot ? My foot is in high speed and it is not my foot pressure.
SOme old foot pedals have a capcitor inside that was for radio interfeance. When they fail it makes the motor run at the fastest speed. The capacitor should be removed for safety. If you can describe the foot controller or link to a picture of it I can give you more information. See my reply to your other comment. Good Luck.
On your last cam timing after you loosen the 3 screws did just the top #7 cam move or did the entire cam set stay together and move to time. I played it over a few times and thought the entire cam set should stay together but couldn't really tell.
Loved watching the video.
Thank you! It's a good question, BJ, because I only said "when you turn this cam stack" in passing. The entire cam set moved. The silver "post" that the black cap slides into goes through all 7 discs to keep them correctly orientated to each other, so to move one disc is to move them all. When I turn to line-up the timing mark the whole cam stack is turning together. Only the disc driving worm wheel stays stationary against the worm gear of the horizontal arm shaft. (because I loosened the 3 small screws) Thanks for watching my channel and taking the time to ask questions.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks, I thought it had to stay together but just wanted to make sure. Great teaching video. I am going to try it tomorrow.
Barbara
@@BJFilbin Yes you have it right and you can do this Barbara no worries just to step at a time you'll be happy and very rewarded when you're finished take care now
I was going to follow along with my Singer 600E to fix the timer but those 3 tiny flat head screws that hold the cam stack are stuck in place over all these years and I don't know how to unscrew them without stripping them. What can I do? Thanks
Here is how I approach that problem. If I am not in a hurry then I soak the screws with penetrating oil, like WD40. I'll apply it and then soak a makeup remover pad with oil, or a rag, and cover the screws and let it sit overnight. I'll work on other parts of the machine, such as the tension or washing the covers, etc. If I'm in a hurry I will wait an hour or so and then start heating the screws. I use a hairdryer. That helps thin the oil for penetration and also softens the tried up hard oil holding the screws in. (I assume you did not find rust on the screws) It can take 5 minutes or much, much longer for the heat to work. There is another approach called twist and hit. Using a well-fitting screwdriver you push down and turn on the screws while you give a couple three sharp raps to the screwdriver while turning. The idea is that impact can "break free" the stuck screw and get it moving. Usually, once it gets free (sharp snick sound) it turns easily. You are correct to not want to strip the screw head; big problem then, so patience and oil with heat is the key. I hope you are successful and good luck.
Andy, I tried and tried with the W D 40 and heat but could not get those tiny screws to budge. The only screwdriver that I had that would go into that slot was a Kenmore sewing machine one. It was to small for me to get a good grip to turn. What size screw driver could you recommend or impact screwdriver?
I bought a couple of sets for working on machines. Hollow Ground actually made for gunsmithing. I bought this first one in 2017 with donations people made to my channel: th-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/w-d-xo.html The have other sets with more bits and you can buy individual bits anytime you like. Then 2 years later I bought this one with a donation and recommendation. th-cam.com/video/7_DHIC6eskc/w-d-xo.html
The Chapman is better quality and the wheeler had more bits
I have an old singer that I need to get the bobbin assembly out to clean, and it won't pull out. Have any suggestions?
Model number please. There are dozens of "old Singer" models. Read this if you need help finding a model number: www.singer.com/en-ca/find-your-model
The model no. Is111W155
That is an industrial model, Janis. I don't work on them. You can find some manuals online and ARMY documents also. Some are for sale and some are free. Here is what I found in a one minute Google Search search of the model number: www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-singer-111w155.aspx
www.manualagent.com/singer/111w155/users-manual
books.googleusercontent.com/books/content?req=AKW5QaeVwagFvjfS-_P6zAXxpYckWtyznXIyg6P0NphT3JDyEnEJB27c8BTmAf8qc-HkNr8fAqfwPmXfOcVCpT6fPavi3uAtFZ4D_6lh8mv36ghfaeLvWVnqF9X0DeDbwGU5tjEFP2e1vWD6ZYq50C82dySapfWZNM_aOcM6t_uwwYzsMNQBBKonmLPfHKVnnwAjR-iLPrsrjm1reDPv4yhwDtVlH0H4bHWKgsCT76v9puDQkgp7uXWauq9htP-5ojEIpMghnw3bbQFdPSaKeWP11yXRm5kRXg
There are others too. Good Luck.
do u have video for singer1280?
No, it too "new" for me to work on. I have no service documents for it b/c it was not originally sold in the USA, sorry.
FREE INSTRUCTION MANUAL HERE: www.singer.com/search/support?title=1280
Here are the playlists of the machines I have videos for in case something I recorded can help with your problem:
th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
That's all I can do. Good Luck.
My Singer 431G will not sew the patterned stitches correctly. Do I need to take out the cam stack to fix
Hi, Elizabeth. Let's check a little bit before we remove any parts. I do not know the history of your personal machine, but I have been told it is based on the 401A model. It may just need a little cleaning and some fresh oil. If you have the instruction manual follow that for where to oil/grease your machine. If not you can download a FREE copy of the 401A manual which should give you a fairly good idea of the oil points. This is directly from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401
I have just recently made this video you commented on as well as other videos about the parts that help the machine make those patterned stitches. Maybe glancing through some of the videos could help you see if the necessary parts are moving correctly. I'm not saying to remove the parts as I do in the videos (unless you want to) but just to see how those knobs and lifters and followers are supposed to function. Those are more likely to need your attention than the cam stack itself which just rotates in the middle of it all. That cam stack is like a sun with all the patterns and the other parts are like satellites that move against it and because of it.
An example would be the follower touching the cam and making the needle bar driving arm push on the vibrating bracket in the nose that moves the needle bar back and forth. Sometimes people forget to oil that bracket and it can't swing as much as it should to make those fancy stitches.
Here is the playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Please remember you can click on the little setting gear in the bottom right and increase the playback speed of the video if you like. I hope that sets you on a good path to find the problem or at least eliminate that it is a lack of oil or it is dirty parts. BTW, I use a special cleaner, buy alcohol works if you can spare it and even fresh oil will soften old dirty oil so you can wipe it off or brush off with old toothbrushes before final oiling. Good luck and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the reply. I bought the machine last Thursday and have never had a vintage machine before. The manual from Singer is very vague. Yesterday I followed your video to clean the cam and the video about loosening up the followers. Both were excellent and easy to follow ! Thank you ! My machine still does not sew the fancy stitches. It looks like the follower is not hitting the metal plate which tells the needle what to do. I will keep watching the videos and maybe clean moe of the parts inside. The videos are a great way to understand how the machine works. I would be really afraid to take apart my modern computer machines but this one is much easier to understand. Thanks for the great work.
@@elizabethlouros2998 You are on the right path, and already learning about the machine. You can also download a FREE copy of the Service Manual and it has all the adjustments, remove and replace instructions. The manual the repairmen used. sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
Page 141 is about centralizing the needle bar driving arm and page 159 is about R&R the arm. I also have a video about the arm:
th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html and a video about the vibrating bracket: th-cam.com/video/ZTmyM4MNX6o/w-d-xo.html
The driving arm has a long spring to the VB that keeps the paddle on the driving arm against the followers. If the VB is dirty or has no oil then the spring may not be strong enough to pull the arm against the follower. So more cleaning and oiling is probably needed. I'm guessing if your just bought it it was in storage somewhere and what you are finding is very common, especially on a model like the 431G with all those fancy controls; ie more parts equals more maintenance.
Ok i have an issue with my 401a. The red button goes from 3 to 5 but lower then 3.
A few things can cause that. It may be simple to repair if a lifter is stuck, or the needle bar driving arm is blocked. Here are all my 401A videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html one of the videos is about the knobs, lifters... th-cam.com/video/-tLtk2Zyqn8/w-d-xo.html here is a video about the needle bar driving arm on a403A a sister machine: th-cam.com/video/tcdGVzL9T6o/w-d-xo.html be sure to oil the machine properly as shown in the manual. If you need the manual you can download a free copy from Singer Support: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 Good luck, Thomas, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 now i just gotta adjust the needle bar. I've followed your tips an got everything else adjusted.
@@thomascooperjr-ym1mi sounds like you're a natural at this Thomas. Congratulations! I don't think you'll have any problems with the needle bar and I hope it's sews like a dream when you're finished. Good luck!
That was Fun!! :-)
A joke I made up after getting an email asking what special tool was needed to "pull the camstack out".
@@andytubesewing1953 loll! Really Funny One!!
@@danmorrissette4814 😉
Hi Andy it won't let me set the dial to A
Very common. Usually, a good cleaning and oiling are what it needs. Maybe some adjustments.
This video may help you see what is going on: th-cam.com/video/-tLtk2Zyqn8/w-d-xo.html
Here is the playlist for model 401A. Some of the other videos may help also:
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Why not clean the surrounding while you had the cams out lol
Two reasons. One, it was not the purpose of this particular video. That comes later in the 16 video series. I did mention cleaning it and how to do it if you wanted to at the time. Two, I always like to see who feels they need to leave a snarky comment about something in my videos. This time that was you, Vida 👀 It took 102 comments but you finally showed up. 🏆 Thanks for watching some of my video. I hope you have a better year in 2021.
Hi Andy. Thank you for the wonderful detailed videos! I recently found a 401a for $30. The cabinet is in terrible shape but the machine is in very good shape. All it really needed was cleaning, lubing, then I found out that the knobs were stuck. I successfully removed the lifters and the followers and also the cam stack cleaned and oiled retimed and now she's purring like a kitten. I'm so excited, I'm learning so much from your videos! thanks again!
@@rebeccarenner8927 You're so welcome, Rebecca. TH-cam had held this comment "for language" What? Some kind of glitch I'm sure. It just showed up here today, 1/21/2022. Happy New Year, I guess. Thanks for watching my channel, and for keeping that machine in service. What a bargain that was!!!
My excentric thingy obviously is at an angle. Back is lower than the front of the machine. Whats going on Andy??
Thingy?
@@andytubesewing1953 essentric cam. Im still learning