The Hardest Offwidth Crack in Vedauwoo - Forever War
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Edelweiss Ropes U.S.A. and Liberty Mountain present Pamela "Shanti" Pack climbing "the hardest offwidth crack" in Vedauwoo, WY...The Forever War 5.13c/d R. Pamela nabbed the first ascent of The Forever War in June of 2012.
"The Forever War is an 85-foot pitch featuring 20 feet of inverted climbing through a steep roof, followed by overhanging arm-bars capped by 30 feet of 5.12a blue-collar groveling. Despite the two bolts, the route still requires a hefty rack." -Pamela "Shanti" Pack
Read Pamela's account of the First Ascent on her blog: pamelashantipack.com/2012/06/15/vedauwoo-wy-pretty-damn-offwidth/ - กีฬา
Plot twist...what if the cams are normal sized and she is tiny and climbs a hand crack
sounds just like reality
What if you put down the bong and be amazed at reality?
Vedauwoo is life. Catch me out there every weekend
Super badass climbing! No helmet, seriously!?
Would have been impossible to do the headjam to get into the invert with one on. There are quite a few offwidths that make helmets a non-starter. Pretty much any squeeze chimney is going to be like that unless you are a bit tubby or have a freakishly small head.
fkn a. luv it
Those cams are hilarious
"Potential to fall head first onto a flake even on toprope."
Still no helmet. Can somebody explain?
Most Hard cores steer away from hard Off widths, because they are such a nightmare and a damn lot of work! Hats off Pamela, Incredible skill level. Thanks to her sponsors for helping such an incredible athlete.
Yep the sponsors mostly only care about sport climbers and boulderers. Alex Honnold and Hazel Findlay are among the few famous professional climbers who are brilliant all rounders.
Ummm no.
Why put bolts in ? Couldnt you use a few cams
the crack flares outwards cams wouldn't hold
This has the makings of a good climbing video. It had a good beginning (intro to the route and its story), a good middle (killer offwidthing), but no end. Did she send it? Where did the name come from? We could use some resolution.
Nobody needs counseling but you, pal. A badass woman rocks a dirty offwidth, and your response is to condescend? You're not showing "Love and Care" if you're implying that a pro climber isn't smart enough to make her own decisions. And if anybody called me "honey" after rocking an OW like this, I'd kick his butt off the crag!
Steve, though your concern is appreciated, she states on her blog, "more often than not I can’t fit in the offwidth with a helmet!" As for the misogynistic (christian paternal undertone) Honey, with love...? Unless you are dating her that is not appropriate. If you care to challenge her ability come on over to laramie and I will give you a ride to the climb so I can laugh as you fall out. This professional climber would put you to shame. Same offer goes to anyone else commenting like this.
Incredible! Man, I'm impressed, That is a sweet crack and Pamela just rocks it!
Awesome Climb! Its almost comedic how big those CAM's are.
I want to know what brand of clothes she is wearing, so I can invest in the company. She must go through ALOT of cloths, pushing that stock through the ROOF!
All you need is about $700 or $800 worth of cams, eh? ;) But seriously, that is some hardcore stuff. Nice work.
The song is unbearable, otherwise interesting climb
wow surprised to hear a milonga used for music in a climbing video
I looked this up after watching wide boyz, I am gonna go check this out as soon as I can. This video is shear inspiration!! This climber knows how to do it.
Incredible route! Awesome, aesthetic line
def not rated R, you can put a crashpad on a cam where you are scared of hitting your head. xD
Pamela says, "I placed a 9" Valley Giant at the lip of the route. It's the Edelweiss Curve Arc 9.8 -- it's my favorite Edelweiss rope! It's light, handles well and is tremendously abrasion resistant. You will love it!"
Yes, we read an article and that was exactly it, she had a couple of head first falls that could have been way worse where she hit the rock below, hence bolts.
you are an inspiration to all off-width climbers. I agree with steven, wear a helmet so you can keep climbing.
Fantastic climb. Great job
One word : Ludicrous ! what an epic way to tackle a problem
What is the second-half song? The internet doesn't seem to know!
"Lady Gaga" by Starside Casino
+Kester Alnilam
Starside Casino - Lady Gaga
Darude - Sandstorm
Oh shucks little late but cheers guys!
That invert sounds sick Pam, can't wait to get shown wayyyy up in Moab
по шкуродёру почти не переводится
GOD!!! that must have been tough on the camera person
It looks like you could climb it safely on just gear. How about hacking the bolts? :)
To all the morons complaining because she isn't wearing a helmet. 1) It's her choice. 2) It's not exactly a run out route by the looks of it. Good bolts and bomber cam placements that she can inch up with her as she goes. 3) Wearing a helmet on climbs like this often make it more likely you will fall off as it gets in the way and makes things harder.
***** Yeah. She actually fell on the climb earlier and injured her kidney, and that's why she added the two bolts. Also, she mentioned in the video that she had to use her head as part of the move to get inverted, which might be tough to do with a helmet on. A couple of years ago I led an off-width climb aptly named "The Hangman" at Devil's Lake, and I couldn't fit my head through a narrow portion because my helmet got stuck. I had to take off the helmet to complete the climb. Either way, a helmet wouldn't have helped much if I had fallen while passing my head through a head-shaped slot in the rock. Still, I was glad I had it on the difficult to protect start of the climb.
I am a climber and a nurse and it is no fun taking care of head injuries. You are the moron. Wear a helmet when leading.
I used to work for outward bound doing rock camps in vedawoo. I love that place.
big deal
would be hard to impossible to protect that. Maybe with big bros but that might make doing the climb impossible. Vedauwoo has a pretty strong traditional ethic, so i am sure they wouldnt have been placed if they werent necessary
WOW. You hit that too the top?
Tried with some I-bars,. Biggest Cam I've ever seen....
VW is odd, for Off-with.
Love it
Yeah, it slows you down... when you slide out of that crack and fall. Not everything is protected by bolt hangers on this route, only that one inverted section.
2 questions
1. WHAT SIZE WAS THE BIGGEST CAM YOU HAD?!?
2. is that the edelweiss curve rope?? and if so how is it? i just bought it and have not actually used it on any routes
It must be the ultimate horror to lead a rout upside down. Holy crap.
There's a bunch of hard off widths in Vedauwoo. That's kind of the whole place.
This lady in a pilates instructor as well, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to book a lesson with her....
I dont know why people hate off widths so much. They are so goofy and creative to climb. this lady is my hero!
The cameraman/woman probably rappelled down and is sitting in a comfortable harness. Just a guess.
cool but doesnt look too fun to me honestly just looks like a pain in the ass to climb like that
Wow l'aggancio di gamba mi mancava, favoloso!
Wow I missed the attachment of the leg, fabulous!
wow.. what an amazing climb.
have a great day!
Props, but offwidths are one of the most body size dependent of any type of climbing. Therefore, pretty hard to rate.
JESUS THOSE CAMS ARE HUGE!! What a killer offwidth. And some SICK climbing!
This needs to be subtitled for the people who just stumble across it. LOL
i think that she has a infinite cam sistem.o o some thing like that!
that big cam is placed pretty horribly
That upside down pivot doesn't look very straightforward to me!
Looks like a job for the Wide Boyz
Holy cow!! Those cams are huge!
all that you need is only some good friends!!!!!
ridiculously big cams !
that's a lot of gear
wont it slow you down
That huge cam that she was using in between crack after she was done narrating, would that even protect you from falling? Does it really make it that stable for you to take 160 lbs dropping 10ft or more? Idk that seems insane, theirs no way that cam could hold her fall..
VGs can absolutely take big whippers. They are way over-engineered.
She is so fearles fighter awesome
those were some huge cams. good climb!
dat #6 cams !
똥꿈이 간질간질 하겠다. 똥꿈에 해삼박는 기분이겠네.
that is a crazy way to climb!
jeez, such small cams. haha
thanks for the information!
Okay so Trango is bringing back the massive Big Bro #5 in limited runs once 100 people have preordered and we are at 32 so far. trango.com/p-356-big-bro-5.aspx
$300.00 for one 😂
For that price you could buy enough board feet to sow up a 60m fatty.
Before tax and shipping 😂😂😂
Dafuq did i just watch!!!
awesome line!
What a total badass.
Arse climbing :)
those CAMS DOE!
dat cam!!! :D
Nice climb!
Wow! So cool! :O
i broke my skull in Vedauwoo
jbrunnez that's so sad, how?
those cams are nearly artist in a way!
Well considering there are only two people (was only one half a year ago) making cams that big in their garages, they really are pieces of art. Look up the newer ones to hit the market, Merlin #8s.
Lose the music
does anyone else think placing that giant cam would be the hottest thing ever?
i do!
The music sucks complete! 🤢🤮
helmet ??
Headjam to get into the invert makes helmet a non-starter.
Something wrong with bolts next to a crack, no matter how horrendous a flared offwidth it is!
Same first thought. I'm in no position to say it's wrong rather than why?
I can't stop thinking "why the hell isn't she wearing a helmet being upside down like that"?
every had your head stuck because of the lip on the helmet... I have! I had to squish my helmet to get myself free
Yeah, everybody knows how dangerous wearing an helmet is, it should be made illegal.
Eben Daggett I think he meant if you fall while being upside down, you will hit your head on the rock first. Not rock fall from above.
Fabio Spelta Hell, it's the rock climbing world. Be thankful (or not) that she's not free soloing with no protection!
+Eben Daggett Unless you are free soloing, you are making somebody else go and get help if you get hurt because you weren't wearing a helmet. Climbing is (mostly) a team sport, and not wearing the right equipment puts the team at risk.
Was that bolted on lead?
Worries about hitting her head.
But doesn't wear a helmet.
SMASH MY HEAD
A couple hundred dollars in cams but no helmet? Really?
Her head would have gotten stuck...
You can't do the headjam to get into the invert with one on. Lots of offwidths make wearing a helmet impossible.
ANd again no helmet because of an ego that is too narcistic
blitz dosent even climb