Matt, I would try to get some shielding for the sensor cables, and earth it at one end, also make sure the earth for the ECU is heavy gauge wire and goes direct to the battery, not via any connectors.
One thing to remember is that anything much over 2 psi will flood DCOE carbs. It just pushes past the needle valve and goes mega rich at idle. Second, one thing I always do on those Webers, particularly if they are old, is block off the cold start devices. The plungers often fail to seal, passing fuel and air into the venturi. You can buy blank starter jets from Webcon, and tap the gallery with a 6mm thread and Loctite in a grub screw to eliminate the issue. Weber do a deletion kit but it is a bit dear. Obviously your incorrect jetting needs to be sorted as well. Float levels are critical too. Progression jetting can be the most awkward thing to fine tune on a DCOE, but once they are right, the Weber DCOE is a superb instrument that rarely gives trouble. I love them!
I used Tipton garage for all of my a-series and Weber carb tuning, back in the day. The old man worked for Downton back in the day and the son Steve worked for Janspeed. They really really know what they are doing and they are relatively local to you. Highly recommended. Oh and that Weber manual and the colour tune takes me back over 20 years. A trip down memory lane 😅
Car looks fantastic. Will keep an eye out for you next year? Make sure crank trigger wire is shielded and keep it away from the electric water pump supply too.
Having just fixed similar symptoms with my Mini’s A-Series, I would check for vac leaks at the carb and exhaust manifold flanges. That shared bolted joint design is difficult to achieve even clamping force between hot and cold flanges of the two manifolds. Making the flange thicknesses equal is critical. I had vac leaks on cyls 3 and 4 but not 1 and 2. Even with the wideband gauge fitted it was impossible to get it run consistently well. Found the vac leaks, fixed those and it was like flicking a switch…engine ran better than it ever has and no more soaked plugs.
The best thing you can do is make yourself up a wideband lambda exhaust reader that you poke up your exhaust, Iv just done my mk2 golf and once you get your head around it it does make a lot of sense
@Urchfab iv ended up adding fuel to the idle jets on my 32/34dmtl weber and taking out about 4 jets worth on the top end, refer to lambda of 1, not afr it's easier to understand then
if its running on 2 and 3 does it not rule out fueling as your main issue for the missfire as 1&2 are paired as are 3&4 does your ecu come with a coil test mode to bench check it
G'day, Weber carbies, I run dual 40mm idf weber carbies on my 63 vw beetle, and they are really a learning curve. But for me anyway, it's all part of the car having fun with it. 🥴 Q. On the welder. I'm looking to buy a mig welder that will weld 23 gauge sheet metal. This one, you are raffling, is it able to mig weld so thin of a metal. And the mini has really come up a treat she looks awesome out on the track. ✌️ Peace.
Don't know if it applies to Webers or not, but from memory of the Dellorto carbs, the float height setting was critical to it's performance and there were several positions it could sit, it would give you similar conditions as to what your experiencing.
@@Urchfab It was a very long time ago but from memory it was a simple steel rule measurement, from the bottom of the bowl to the top of the float. I think it was a wet measurement but don't quote me. I swapped out the carbs on my Lotus Cortina, the Dellorto's were so much better but to be fair the Webers were pretty much knackered.
John at SC supplied me my engine components which I assembled myself (It's great stuff). What spark plugs are you using? I use NGK BP9EV and they never fail up. Using a 45 DCOE and distributor ignition. I'd recommend Atspeed racing in Essex for rolling road calibration. I guess Essex is a bit of a journey for you though. Hope you get it sorted soon 👍🏻
@@Urchfab That is _way_ too big, as you suspected. For a 1275 in race tune it'll need to be around a 50F11. A standard or mildly tuned 1275 would be in the ballpark of 50F2. David Andrews has a decent page on DCOE tuning, I can't link it but look for "Selection and tuning of Weber DCOE carburettors" and you'll find it.
Too heavy for a mini. I put a Suzuki swift engine in mine back in the day. But these days I'd choose a Micra engine. Although this car is for a specific race series and most likely needs to retain the a-series engine
@kevinfromdevon The Honda engine only weighs in about 345 L.B.S.. That is just as heavy as the iron block Austin engine in the car and is an aluminum engine block. Plus it has more horse power.
@@richardbrowne3641 yeah you are probably correct. I know that it had an adverse effect on the handling of my Micra when I swapped from 1.3 turbo to k20 turbo. Now my Micra has a k24, a rear subframe and AWD. So hopefully the balance will be better and it will handle okay. I will find out soon
So you built the car, the engine, transaxle/gearbox and electrical systems, and you've not known the basic principles of carburation. All carburetors do the same basic things. How they achieve that is determined by the manufacturer to get final results. Its basic Physics applied, not guess work and magic. Reading the manual is always helpful don't you think?
Matt, I would try to get some shielding for the sensor cables, and earth it at one end, also make sure the earth for the ECU is heavy gauge wire and goes direct to the battery, not via any connectors.
One thing to remember is that anything much over 2 psi will flood DCOE carbs. It just pushes past the needle valve and goes mega rich at idle. Second, one thing I always do on those Webers, particularly if they are old, is block off the cold start devices. The plungers often fail to seal, passing fuel and air into the venturi. You can buy blank starter jets from Webcon, and tap the gallery with a 6mm thread and Loctite in a grub screw to eliminate the issue. Weber do a deletion kit but it is a bit dear. Obviously your incorrect jetting needs to be sorted as well. Float levels are critical too. Progression jetting can be the most awkward thing to fine tune on a DCOE, but once they are right, the Weber DCOE is a superb instrument that rarely gives trouble. I love them!
Thanks for the info, I will check all that. Its a new carb on there and I think I'm just under 3 psi so I'll drop it back a bit. Cheers
Lovely car Matt! Nice job. You will get the tuning sorted!
I used Tipton garage for all of my a-series and Weber carb tuning, back in the day. The old man worked for Downton back in the day and the son Steve worked for Janspeed. They really really know what they are doing and they are relatively local to you. Highly recommended. Oh and that Weber manual and the colour tune takes me back over 20 years. A trip down memory lane 😅
I will look them up 👍
Glad to see your still wrenching..
Never realised there could be so much involved- extremely interesting video Matt, you’ll get there! 👍😊
Cheers
Great content, God speed in your continued tuning the bugs out of this beauty - Keep at it Mat success will come soon.
Gunson Colortune was the only way to balance the mixture of twin carbs. Turn the garage lights off first though 😊
Great video, really interesting about the carbs. 👍🏾
Looks awesome. Looking forward to seeing it dialled in. Best of luck with the gremlins, everything will be obvious with hindsight 😂
Car looks fantastic. Will keep an eye out for you next year? Make sure crank trigger wire is shielded and keep it away from the electric water pump supply too.
Will do! cheers
Looks a clean build, very nice.
Fantastic Mini, superb video!
Cheers
Great work, knowledge is power
Great looking car. The guys round at the garage at Coombe could of helped with your carb problem, they even have a dyno.
Having just fixed similar symptoms with my Mini’s A-Series, I would check for vac leaks at the carb and exhaust manifold flanges. That shared bolted joint design is difficult to achieve even clamping force between hot and cold flanges of the two manifolds. Making the flange thicknesses equal is critical. I had vac leaks on cyls 3 and 4 but not 1 and 2. Even with the wideband gauge fitted it was impossible to get it run consistently well. Found the vac leaks, fixed those and it was like flicking a switch…engine ran better than it ever has and no more soaked plugs.
I did check that but will have another look. Cheers 🍻
The best thing you can do is make yourself up a wideband lambda exhaust reader that you poke up your exhaust, Iv just done my mk2 golf and once you get your head around it it does make a lot of sense
👌
Its on the list!
@Urchfab iv ended up adding fuel to the idle jets on my 32/34dmtl weber and taking out about 4 jets worth on the top end, refer to lambda of 1, not afr it's easier to understand then
Great to see it up and running, cant wait to see it at full send on track
Me too. Cheers
Nice to see you again gvnor..... LAG...
Awesome job mate.
Love the Mini.
Thanks 👍
Great video Matt 🙌🙌
I can't wait to see the car dialled in
Me too mate
if its running on 2 and 3 does it not rule out fueling as your main issue for the missfire as 1&2 are paired as are 3&4 does your ecu come with a coil test mode to bench check it
It does yes, I can test all the plugs are firing. I also swapped the outputs on the ecu to verify both sides of the coil were working.
Love the cheap corner weights but, you should build some frames to sit them in that you can level L to R, F to R.
Its on the list of jobs. Cheers
G'day,
Weber carbies,
I run dual 40mm idf weber carbies on my 63 vw beetle, and they are really a learning curve.
But for me anyway, it's all part of the car having fun with it. 🥴
Q. On the welder. I'm looking to buy a mig welder that will weld 23 gauge sheet metal. This one, you are raffling, is it able to mig weld so thin of a metal.
And the mini has really come up a treat she looks awesome out on the track.
✌️ Peace.
Yes it will weld it, it does tig as well which might be better suited when you going that thin. Cheers
@Urchfab
Thanks ✌️
Don't know if it applies to Webers or not, but from memory of the Dellorto carbs, the float height setting was critical to it's performance and there were several positions it could sit, it would give you similar conditions as to what your experiencing.
I will check that. Cheers 🍻
@@Urchfab It was a very long time ago but from memory it was a simple steel rule measurement, from the bottom of the bowl to the top of the float.
I think it was a wet measurement but don't quote me.
I swapped out the carbs on my Lotus Cortina, the Dellorto's were so much better but to be fair the Webers were pretty much knackered.
It looks so right!!
Cheers 🍻
Interesting stuff..
John at SC supplied me my engine components which I assembled myself (It's great stuff). What spark plugs are you using? I use NGK BP9EV and they never fail up. Using a 45 DCOE and distributor ignition. I'd recommend Atspeed racing in Essex for rolling road calibration. I guess Essex is a bit of a journey for you though. Hope you get it sorted soon 👍🏻
I have a few different sets, might even have those. I'm sure it will be ripping soon. Cheers
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator fitted? ... set too high? ...
Yes, set to 3.5 psi
What size are your current idle jets?
F860
@@Urchfab That is _way_ too big, as you suspected. For a 1275 in race tune it'll need to be around a 50F11. A standard or mildly tuned 1275 would be in the ballpark of 50F2.
David Andrews has a decent page on DCOE tuning, I can't link it but look for "Selection and tuning of Weber DCOE carburettors" and you'll find it.
Ok thanks, I will look that up. What's the F number a reference to? I have some 45f8, 50f8 and 55f8 to try tomorrow. Worth a try? Cheers
ditch the music !!!!
Kswap it if your not keeping originality Evan a dseries Honda is pretty good with rods and pistons
Its gotta be A series.
I totally get it especially that thing it’s why I kept my car a d series
Nostalgia 😎
Honda K24 Swap the engine!
Too heavy for a mini. I put a Suzuki swift engine in mine back in the day. But these days I'd choose a Micra engine. Although this car is for a specific race series and most likely needs to retain the a-series engine
@kevinfromdevon The Honda engine only weighs in about 345 L.B.S.. That is just as heavy as the iron block Austin engine in the car and is an aluminum engine block. Plus it has more horse power.
It wouldn't get in the Race Series he wants to Race in
@@richardbrowne3641 yeah you are probably correct. I know that it had an adverse effect on the handling of my Micra when I swapped from 1.3 turbo to k20 turbo. Now my Micra has a k24, a rear subframe and AWD. So hopefully the balance will be better and it will handle okay. I will find out soon
It had a honda engine in it when I bought it.
like number 144? gross!
?
@@Urchfab a dozen dozens is a gross - 144
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
So you built the car, the engine, transaxle/gearbox and electrical systems, and you've not known the basic principles of carburation. All carburetors do the same basic things. How they achieve that is determined by the manufacturer to get final results. Its basic Physics applied, not guess work and magic. Reading the manual is always helpful don't you think?
Ok thanks Albert
Always a good show
Good to hear you’re helping out Home built Jeff down under