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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2020
- Step-by-step instructions on how to replace the refrigerator compartment defrost heater on a Samsung french door refrigerator. The refrigerator defrost heater shown in the video is Part # DA47-00244U (PD# PD00033193) but the instructions in the video applies to many different part numbers and models of Samsung refrigerators.
Purchase Defrost Heater shown in the video here: partsdr.com/part/da47-00244u-...
Tools you need:
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Philips screwdriver
- Side cutter
- Gloves
Replaces these part numbers: 3955643, AP5914487, PS9603659, EAP9603659
Refrigerator model shown in video: RF263BEAESG/AA
How To Test A Defrost Heater On A Refrigerator or Freezer: • How To Test A Defrost ...
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Learn how to test your defrost temperature sensor here: th-cam.com/video/J5bwcteeJNM/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Allowed me to repair my fridge. I also removed the evaporator fan and installed a new one. But I first took the old one and plugged it in while hanging with the old defroster heater part still installed. The fan seemed perfectly good when spun by hand, but had been encased in a block of ice. I never heard it come on with doors closed. I then replaced the defroster heater, re-installed the cover with new fan and you can hear the fan blowing with door closed so all is well. I point this out because if I had more time, I could have tested the old fan with new defroster part installed, which I did not, but saving old fan because it looks okay. Thank you.
That is great!
My frdged evaporater fan ďc ice not mot stck upineed reparing iam ner work shoped fsn moter coil winding and fixeing
Great video. Every Samsung I’ve had has suffered from freezing up. Garbage. Going to give this a go. Thx.
Let us know how the repair goes! You may also consider replacing the defrost temperature sensor at the same time. th-cam.com/video/I_aDS77dY8o/w-d-xo.html
Solid video. Please give Ohm rating for testing if this is important.
I'm back to thank you Man, my part came and I was able to fix my refrigerator with certainty. Thank you again P.S. don't change your video style
Glad we could help!
THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS. Great camera angles btw i really enjoyed it and was able to see everything. Thanks!
We are glad you found it helpful!
Really helpful video. My fridge had a slightly different plug in configuration for the heating element. Fingers crossed I got it working again. Thank you
That's great to hear! Let us know what kind of problem you were having and if it fixes it.
This is a great video. Very thankful for the step by step. For me, the black rubber on the coil is melted. Can I remove it? Could someone help me? Thanks
Great details thank you.
We are glad you found it helpful!
Excellent tutorial! I wish I could have supported the store by purchasing the replacement part from you, but sadly your site doesn't accept international credit cards.
Thank you for trying to support us!
Nice sir love your videos
Wonderful. Thank you.
We are glad you found it helpful!
Great video. My Samsung refrigerator’s defrost heating element went bad (measuring >155K ohms with a multimeter). The new one measures 107 ohms in case anyone is wondering what it should read when it’s not broken.
That is helpful. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome video. Thanks my friend
You're welcome!
This is how to do a HOW TO video. Great job. Watching more now.
We are happy that we could help!
Very good video . Thank you
You're welcome!
very good video. thank you. my issues is it is freezing up on the top right area where the copper tube comes from the back and the top right area in total. and videos i can watch on that issue
If only the top right corner of the coil is getting cold and turning to an ice ball, then you may have a sealed system leak or compressor failure.
You had coil heater for RSC6KPRS model I'm from Philippines
Great video! My Samsung has this very issue. AND... I happen to have a parts refer!
👍
I can't understand what's the problem with my fridge...the heater gives me 0.6 ohm, does it went bad? Also i have a second fuse (I'm not sure) that's near the fan in direct contact with the heater, which doesn't have continuity (i haven't seen this component in any video..) . Where i can get some help? I can post some photos..
I noted from watching this video that there is a red jumper wire and connector just above the left connector for the heating element. I do not see one of these on my refrigerator. Is that jumper present on all models. Mine is a model RF28HFEDTSR.
good show.👍
Thanks!
What is the black Gunk on the top right corner of the coil?
Thanks for the great viveo.
You're welcome!
PLEASE READ!!! Had to "de ice" every 6 months until I read that if you spray "Pam" on the coils it will prevent ice buildup. So I tried it and haven't had a problem since. 5 years and still no ice build up!
Are you referring the cooking Pam? Spray it directly on the evaporator coil? Thank you.
I still get a code for that defrost htr after new one is installed? Is there a way to clear it? Unplugging it didn’t clear it? The code was the 1Rg
Thanks!
My Samsung French door refrigerator ice build up in back panel, how to fix it?
How can I test this type of defrost heater to see if I actually need to replace it? I saw the video to test the type with just one clip but this type has a clip on each side. Not sure how to use my multimeter on that.
This I also need to know
Thank you
You're welcome!!
another great video, ryan!
Great tutorial, how do you transfer the drain probe? It looks like it's riveted to the heater.
We have a video on that here: th-cam.com/video/Obi8iQ67C0I/w-d-xo.html
Is there a way to do without you riveting a new one?
Great Ryan such a succinct explanation through the steps my fridge evaporator is not freezing & defrost element working fine the ice build up is higher where the metal pipes enter they both then freeze & the excessive ice build grows to the point that the thermo fan is blocked from rotating because of this ice build up ...so mu problem is like the fridge is over cooling . I'm thinking to install copper wire that drops into the drain hole (just preventative not my primary issue) & maybe get some further Thermo/Insulation for the incoming & return coolant pipes ?? Model SRF680CDLS. Has heating element & sensors replaced 2 years ago when the whole fridge evap used to ice up...2 year on slightly different issue. takes about 3 weeks for the excessive ice to build up & stop the fridge fan from doing it's thing the heating element is working fine...so any help in this area would be great have four kids just out of Covid lock down in Australia & prefer not to buy another fridge :).
same issue still ongoing Parts Dr , after some tech direction as it what it possibly may be ...
I have the same issue, most of freezing located near the fan.
Does anyone know how to remove the screw on the bottom center when it is so stuck? My guess is that this happens because it is full of ice in the inside.
hi, my samsung fridge srf800gdls look similar to the one you do demo.. i had power outage and once get back my fridge had failure and tripping... i find out unplug cable for heater can continue working.. after 1 month i notice that my temperature drop and frost ice blocking the outlet.. I want to know if i replace the heater part will solve the issue or still have to replace other part?
You can test your defrost heater using the instructions here: th-cam.com/video/q7hysgipzpQ/w-d-xo.html
Can you show or reply on how to test for the ohms for the defrosting element. I need to see if that part is broken or it’s another part I need to fix.
We have a video on defrost heater testing here: th-cam.com/video/q7hysgipzpQ/w-d-xo.html
Hey I need some help, the connection on the left side. My refrigerator didn't have the top white piece with the red wire that connects to the same piece. Do you know how I get ahold oh that part and is it nessisary. Mine didn't have the retainer clips on tge left side or the white connector with the red wire?
Can we fix here other design heater
I already replaced the Ice maker but my fridge still freezing my food, I have to replace this sensor too?
A bad defrost heater would normally cause the refrigerator section to warm up and not get cold enough. You may want to test your temperature sensors. th-cam.com/video/J5bwcteeJNM/w-d-xo.html
My samsung is a RF26HFENDSR/AA and it has a standalone thermostat, but my new defroster has one attached to it as well and it is apparently for this model. Can I remove the standalone one and leave that place blank on the plug?
No, you will need to get the correct defrost heater that does not have the thermostat attached to it. Check the tag on your old heater for the correct part number.
This video shows defrost t-stat in series with the heater...as I expected. My Frigidaire has separate wires, but I expect it's the same series circuit, so t-stat is not a low voltage signalling device to my circuit board. Good to know b4 I go after the circuit board to check it. Thanks.
That is common for them to be wired in series as you describe.
This is odd. It may be the reason for faulty defrosting. Most of the problems related to these Samsung's are a large ice buildup in the upper right. The frost/ice never fully melts resulting in a mass of ice that only gets bigger. The terminator should be located in the upper right of the evaporator coil as that portion is the most active region for the freeze cycle. The terminator determines the defrost cycle. By locating it away from the area most likely to build up frost, you run the risk of not fully defrosting the coil and the tubing. The solution would be to have a separate heater and bimetal terminator, with the terminator relocated to the upper right of the coil. Improper technical design. Unfortunately, trying to fix it may be impossible given the one piece construction of the heater,/terminator. I will be sure to avoid these models of S/S refrigerators. Unlikely that it is a sealed system charge issue. Far too many S/S refrigerators are afflicted by this problem and ice maker leaks resulting in potential Class Action lawsuits.
Is this the part that's causing the Samsung fridge to trip the breaker? Mine started to trip the breaker very more often now.
My fridge was tripping because of a short on the defrost heating element. I used this video to get to the defrost heater and tested the fridge with the unplugged element. This fixed the tripping and allowed me to diagnose the problem. I bought a new one on line for AUD$100 and saved my self a technician's call out and repair cost. Great tutorial. Thanks
You did go through how to check the heater coil. I assume that you just check it for continuity?
On some you have to do an Ohm test instead of continuity because the ohm value is too high to register continuity. We have a video on that here: th-cam.com/video/q7hysgipzpQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi, i am hoping you can help me. I have rs53k4400bc and past 2 weeks bottom section of the fridge keeps freezing. I have already replaced the temperature sensor and that has not fixed the problem. I did check the sensor afterwards and it showing 5.5ohm on room temperature and 10 in ice water.
Defrost heater seems to be working as i accidentally touched it and it was very hot. Any ideas what it could be? Thanks in advance.
My fridge has a separate plug-in bi-metal defrost thermostat. Would it be okay to use a defrost heater with a built-in thermostat?
No, you will need to match it up with the same as the original.
Did u end up trying the built in thermostat?
I put it in Force Defrost mode. Cover off. And the heating element never warmed up. Is that because the cover was off? Or bad heating element?
You can test your defrost heater with the instructions in this video here: th-cam.com/video/q7hysgipzpQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi. The aluminum casing behind the coil for my fridge is rusted. How can i replace it and what is it called.
What is the model code/BOM name from the tag on your refrigerator?
@@PartsDr Hi. It's a Samsung twin cooling model no RB216ABRS. Thank you.
@@raymondcrasto3270 We are sorry, but we do not have information on this model because it is a Canadian model number.
I’m having trouble snapping the cover back into place on the sides. Will that cause any issues?
It can potentially cause issues if air leaks around the sides.
I’m not sure why it’s not snapping back in. Any suggestions on what I could do?? What kind of problems could it cause?
Where is the thermal fuse located at?
It would depend on the model of the refrigerator. Most refrigerators don't have a thermal fuse, but there are some that have them.
Dr. Parts, could you please tell me is all the Samsung refrigerator all use the same defrost feather?
They use different heaters depending on the model number of the refrigerator.
My is RF 263TEAESG／AA,,please advise me.
@@stanleyyang1475 The one that is listed for your model is this one: partsdr.com/part/da47-00244u-defrost-heater But there is a note that says "In order to ensure you are ordering the correct part number, please check the tag on your existing defrost heater and verify that the four digits on this tag match the last four digits of the manufacturers part number."
@PartsDr thank you.
Should the refrigerator be off? Disconnected? With out power?
We recommend to unplug the refrigerator or turn off the breaker to the refrigerator while doing this repair.
I would like you to answer me something.
1. How do remove the bimetal thermostat from the heaters
2. If I measured the heaters and bimetal thermostat still attached together and got a reading of 433 ohms
What does it mean, is my heater faulty or not
3. How do I unattached the bimetal thermostat from the heater
Please some answers
@parts Dr.
Thanks
1. It is not detachable if they come wired together from the factory.
2. It sounds like the ohm reading is good.
3. It is not detachable if they come wired together from the factory.
@@PartsDr
So my Heater is fine
And if so
Why is there to much frost in the freezer compartment.
@@alisonheat Do you get that ohm reading when the bimetal thermostat is cold or warm. I just replaced one with that reading when it was warm. Meaning it was stuck closed. Hope that helps.
@al green. Sorry for replying this late. It was warm because I had to first remove the ice from while I poured some little warm water. Meaning it got warm.
@@algreen5559Sorry for replying this late. It was warm because I had to first remove the ice from while I poured some little warm water. Meaning it got warm.
I noticed no voltage to my defroster even when I force defrost mode any suggestions?
Which part number is your defrost heater?
same as in video @@PartsDr
@@MarkMinistries test the defrost heater, bi-metal and defrost sensor. If those are both good, it is most likely a bad main control board.
th-cam.com/video/J5bwcteeJNM/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/q7hysgipzpQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/i4SNEgPoUMY/w-d-xo.html
main control
My Samsung must be really old.
My wiring harness is all in one.
DA47-002447B.
Amazon doesn't have them.
The number that you provided is not valid, it has an extra character.
@@PartsDr
That's exactly the way tag says.
I found one on Amazon for 108 dollars. But reviews says it doesn't fit. The refrigerator is about 15 years old. I decided buy new instead.
Thanks anyways
I got 430 ohm for the heater element on mine , it seemed a bit high. Is that ok ? Usually I see fridges have 30 to 40 ohm on other websites. My bimetal is stuck on closed at all temperatures, so although it freezes the ice, it does it only once. Then during the defrost cycle it Melts up everything that was frozen. I want to change the defrost bimetal only if my heater is ok. Am I on the right track ?
What is the part number of the heater?
@@PartsDr DA47-00485A, it shows close to 430 ohm, I disconnected the bimetal and checked. The bimetal is faulty, the part number is KSD 305 but I couldn't find a right match for that online.
@@rahulshah7827 That part number is not valid. What is the model code/BOM name from the tag on your refrigerator? th-cam.com/video/4HhWL9sonuE/w-d-xo.html
@@PartsDr ibb.co/MRCRdRd is the photo of the part tag
RF50K5910SL rev 0.0
@@rahulshah7827 It should read approximately 440 ohms, so 430 most likely indicates that it is good.
I will never purchase another Samsung appliance in my life!!!!!
Nobody explain how does it work, unfortunately,nobody test with multimeter and explain how this works.
the defroster kicks on periodically to melt the frost off the evap and it drains down the tube to the pan. it gets volts from the main control to tell it when to turn on and off and the thermostat measures temps.
can the heater go partly bad, meaning it defrosts but not enough? that seems to have been a problem in the past. my water on the floor in front of the fridge doesn't seem to be coming from inside the fridge or freezer AT THIS POINT... but seems to be coming from underneath. the drains in both the fridge and freezer seem to be open and free-flowing. the tray under the unit has a good amount of water in it all the time. the fan by the compressor runs.
No, the defrost heater is either good or bad from our experience. If the refrigerator is partially defrosting, we would suspect one of the other defrost components as being bad (defrost temperature sensor, bi-metal thermostat, main control board).
th-cam.com/video/J5bwcteeJNM/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/q7hysgipzpQ/w-d-xo.html
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