I MADE A STEEL CNC MILL FROM SCRATCH (desktop version)
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Somehow I got carried away by the comments in the last video and decided to sharpen my welding skills trying to rebuild the mill out of steel.
I remade the entire frame out of 40x40x2 steel box and TIG welded it using a technique called winging it. As a known side effect of this technique the frame is not square, straight, coplanar, or any of the required properties for the frame of a machine like this. I solved it by shimming almost everything on it with washers of different thicknesses and a lot of brute force. In the build of the aluminium one almost everything went perfect first try, in this build I had to wrestle with it a lot, way more than I'm capable to show in a single video. The machine is obviously more rigid than the aluminium one and after a lot of fiddling with it, it is surprisingly straight where it counts and seems to even be properly trammed.
As a bonus at the end of the video I decided to obliterate some aluminium and steel with the wrong dull bit and completely wrong feeds and speeds.
As always let me know what you think in the comments.
Thanks for watching!!
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CHAPTERS:
00:00 Preparing the parts
02:20 Welding the frame
04:47 Raid
06:37 Finishing the frame
07:07 XY Table
10:50 Z Axis turret
13:04 Final assembly
14:42 Testing - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Check out epoxy granite casting. Its a cool way to make really rigid and strong machine bases without having to pour your own cast iron. You know, when you inevitably decide to make an even bigger machine. 😁
That will definitely happen so I'll need to find me some epoxy granite yes.
I was looking for this comment. It is crazy how many epoxy granite based cnc mills TH-cam has been recommending me lately lol..I am totally convinced it is absolutely the way to go. I have even seen some machines made with some high strength concrete...
@@ivanmirandawastaken Yes, Yes, Yes!!!!! We are living in great, great days! 👍😁👍
@@HeimoVN some of the finest air bearing Swiss machines are epoxy granite based
You could probably get by with just a epoxy and sand epoxy granite then you could just 3d print a hollow machine and fill it with epoxy granite
The passion, devotion and absolute energy that you display in every new video motivates me to keep pushing and learning more about my interests in engineering, machinery and 3D printing. The editing is spot on and the music reminds me of 80's workout montages. Much love from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷
I give my everything. Thanks!!!
@@ivanmirandawastaken The project and the work are great, thank you for showing that off:) But the video editing? What is that supposed to be? A Rust video in the style of a 12 year old(sorry for that comparison)? Especially when showing work, these quick cuts give the impression of inconsistency instead of suggesting a fluid and professional (and also traceable!) workflow. This creates an absolute feeling of uneasiness in me, even dizziness, which distracts me from your actual art.
Putting the focus on the chord accents in the music and connecting that to the video?: I think that's a great idea. I'm a guitarist and at the next concert I'll put a drill-press on the stage and work on the side. It will definitely be great if the audience and I only half concentrate on the essentials!
Just my opinion, I'm sure some others like your way of presentation. I place more emphasis on seeing what is being done in a calm, learning-emphasizing, and fluid manner. These ADHD cuts really hurt me to look at. Okay, It doesn't matter, there are plenty of other good machinist channels out there and I didn't want to nag about it. Sorry, I was just shocked! :)
P.S.: I watched it to the end ... not that you think ... How about the important stuff? Like tolerances, measurements, parameters of the mill? That wasn't even a topic. Hey and your machinist skills are wonderful. What needs a little love are the teaching and presentation skills. Again, just my opinion and in no way a demanding request. Do what is fun for you, period:)
Ivan Miranda - He builds the tools to build the tools. Legend has it that one day, he will have all the tools he needs to actually finish a project.
That would be horrifying.
A few advices from my point of view (and at least 50 or 60 custom build CNCs):
1. Weld using magnetic angle clamps
2. Never ever drill or hammer the base of already mounted rails
3. Use CALIBRATED metal blocks when centering things to be parallel
4. After you think the machine is complete, just pick the dimensions of calibrated object like precision steel ball with CNC precision steel touch probe and then recreate it. If the dimensions of the copied object are not close to the original, then you have a problem
hi can you help me to build one ?
i need one for my bicycle workshop where i need to make some critical parts
for that i was thinking to make 1 myself but couldn't find a good detailed walkthrough video or guide to follow
i think 0.01 mm is more than accurate enough for my line of work
@@tanzinsiam7559 It's not rocket science to build one, you just need to have enough money to complete the project. As first step you can pick the working dimensions of the CNC to target those of the biggest bicycle part
you should use the milling head to face the "table" itself to ensure the parallelism of the table in comparison with the the xy travel plane of the milling head. the squareness of the Z travel in comparison with the xy table can be check and tram after that. Ohh, and awesome, awesome build as usual, it just needs some fine tuning and then you built yourself a beast
Absolutely love your work Ivan, been a fan of yours since your first 3d printer. I've followed several of your instructions to build my own systems and have been quite successful to date. Keep up the awesome effort mate.
Thanks so much for covering this as I have started a build a CNC from the ground up.
You are an inspiration. I love your videos. I imagine doing the same type of projects if I had the time and funds to pursue it. Its nice to see your skills progress over the years.
Shoulda filled everything with sand to increase the vibration damping
@Patric Nope sadly that is not true. That is the problem about harmonics. If you hit the right frequency you will get a lot of oscillation even if you take very shallow cuts. And this frame will have a ton of problematic frequencies.
Also you can just fill it with sand after it is in position. And if you ever want to move it you can just take the sand out via drain holes. WIth some vibrations sand actually flows quite well.
@Patric Also shallower cuts also means you are going to only use a fraction of what you should on your cutting tools. You’ll end up with every bit having a dull tip and virtually untouched otherwise, not efficient.
@Patric Yes I am saying that. And I am quite confident. Because if you hit or are close to a resonance of the frame no matter how little energy you put into it the amplitude of the vibration will increase. That is just physics.
So often it is a much better alternative to just change the RPM and feed rate to get out of that spot.
The problem here is however, that tubes often resonate quite well at a variety of frequencies.
Yeah ok. If you go very shallow the dampening of the frame will be enough but at that point I would not call it milling any more. It is rubbing, causing a lot of heat in the workpiece and the tool. Both not ideal at all.
If you have to go at such low cutting depth then there is no point of building such a machine. The materials used in this machine, given proper assembly, should be able of milling through aluminium with 10mm depth of cut and a width of 1-1.5mm. If you have to go so slow and shallow to eliminate vibrations the machine is pointless.
Makes no difference if the spindle is a spaghetti noodle. Besides, sand only adds mass, not rigidity so it's kindof a second rate option in comparison to high performance concrete
Epoxy Granite is the correct answer. It has amazing properties of damping and stiffness. It's truly amazing material and let's you do some truly impressive stuff that is impossible otherwise.
By far, most compact, comprehensive & smart design & fabrication I've even seen on TH-cam. Very appreciate for sharing.
every now and then your videos pop up in my recommended feed and i cant help but watch. gotta say, i absolutely love your jump cuts when using a center punch. entertainment wise, thats my favorite part of your videos.
The amount of work you put into each video is incredible! Most other youtubers would have turned this project into a 5+ part series. I really like this compact format!
Other youtubers just do 5 hour live streams with zero editing now, it's so sad.
Depends on what you want. Do you just want to consume a video, this format is good.
Do you want to know how to build such a machine yourself with a lot of pitfalls explained on the way? Then go to the 5+ hour series.
It just depends on what you want.
Watching you go from projects made of almost all 3D printed parts to this has been so fun.
S(l)ick! You've been working hard lately! I really want to build one to. Hardware is no problem but the control and electronics always have me postpone project like this. How did you control this one? Plug and play would be great 😉 ghe ghe. Keep up the good work!
If you want something in the "milling steel with ease" range and something friendly I'd go for a Duet3, in this setup there are only the connections of the three motors to the controller. Cheers Daniel!!
Electronics, especially g-code boards, stepper controllers and stepper motors etc is the easy part. (At least for me)
@@ivanmirandawastaken the plans for this machine, where i can find it?
@Van Life no, i'm intrested in the dimensions of the steel frame, parts list And so on
Now that you have a better CNC, you need to mill replacements to the 3d printed ball screw mountings from aluminum, to make it far more rigid.
@Ukranian Robokop If he decides to go with epoxy granite, then he should just use an aluminum skeleton and encapsulate it. It would be impossible to get good results by attempting to fill the thin wall steel tubing.
I really like your videos and have been experimenting with diy cnc routers during this pandemic a bit. I recommend using single or dual flute cutters on these high rpm spindles becaust it enables you to take slower deeper passes (good for the steppers) on high rpm (where these spindle motors have good torque) and still take a decent chip per tooth wich is important to reduce friction and extend tool life and have cleaner cuts. Also I recommend to fix the machine to something heavy or even cast a concrete block around the steel frame to dampen vibrations because steel alone is not good at that. Other than that great machine! Keep going and greetings from Germany!
You're an amazing engineer Mr. Miranda!!! I always enjoy your video's. Keep up the good work!
Ivan, thank you 👍😊 The amount of work you put into each video is incredible! 😊
Whoa, what a huge project. Glad to see you get into different materials. Mill is so cool. Mahalo for sharing!
This is insane! Your videos are amazing to watch! Keep up the good work Ivan :)
Thanks!!
Hey Ivan, you build these awesome machines, where I can be jealous about. You have such great skills, that last part is just one tiny bit... but you'll come over that! OMG, you are amazing!
It would be interesting to see a shoot out between this and the previous mill you built just to show what you gain from making one this way. Mill that test piece on both mills in both aluminum and steel. Take notes about total machining time for each and compare the quality.
Someone suggested you machine the bearing mounting for the ball screws in aluminum to replace the 3D printed PLA parts and make them more rigid. If you do something like this then it would be interesting to see a before and after test to show if it made any noticeable difference in the surface quality. Everyone keeps saying rigidity, rigidity, rigidity, but it would be interesting to see if it makes a huge difference or if it's subtle. The PLA parts are pretty substantial and the material dampens vibrations pretty well. So it would be interesting to see just how much difference there is.
Awesome CNC build! I like that you showed you're mistakes and rework, keeping it real. And super nice job in making and editing the video also! I love the perspectives from inside the tube when your welding and drilling. It makes the video even more interesting to watch. Did you use a VFD to drive the spindle motor? Looking forward to the next video!
Awsome design.
Might I suggest coolant or pressurized air for the milling surface. This will help with removing chips and grind before they can stick to the surface of the object beging milled.
Fantastic! Someone below commented about having the knowledge of the hardware, but not the electronics. That's where I fall in this type of build too. But, someday...someday.
Your enthusiasm is infectious! I love watching your videos! Great work!
I love this guy, seriously talented and always happy. Wish we could do some project together, you seem like a great guy to work with
I’ve noticed there have been no spacers in the last few videos.
Well, he should have yelled "spacers!" when he used those square tube bits to space parts for welding.
F
THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE: CNC 3+2 Axis. You would be the king of youtube.
thats true
Is it just me or does Ivan’s video production skills keep getting better and better?!?!?!
Yet another skill mastered by this talented man!
Both your welding and machining skills will improve as you use them. Overall, this is amazing. Can't wait to see what make with it.
So looking forward to the future goodness you create with this beast! :D
Welding isn't hard, preparation for good welding are! Looks nice awesome job!
Sir, you are truly an inspiration! Keep it up! Thank you for sharing. 👍
At this point my guy can straight up make a factory lol
Why's he 'your' guy?
@@andycrask3531 it's his turn with Ivan, wait yours
@@theninjascientist689 damn right it is lol
@@pioneer1943 xD
Holy crap Ivan ! I love it when people step out of their comfort zone....great job buddy!
I dove unto unknown territory on this one for sure. Thanks!!
Love it! Do you think that its smaller, more rigid design gives it an edge over some of your larger MPCNC's?
This one is wayyy more rigid than the other ones and the motors are way more powerful so yes, this is more capable in the small volume range.
@@ivanmirandawastaken looked like nema34 open loops?
@@ivanmirandawastaken I don't wanna imagine how weak were the previous machines, measure this and previous to see how better or useful is this, in order to see if this is gonna be a project to work on or just a nice video
You said it Ivan… it’s a BEAST!! Nice job dude!
Production quality is next level!
Great editing!
Would love to see you put a dial indicator on this and see how dialed in you can get it tolerance wise. Looks like its got a good setup but would love to see how it measures up against some of the things that get 2 thou accuracy
So inspiring. I've just progressed from using a small 3018 CNC to my own build C Beam CNC. I've never welded but I want to try now
I would get some covers for the linear rails, it wouldn't take much to get them messed up with chips.
The frame is going to warp over time due to stress in all those welds. Also, the heat of the steppers is going to tranfer into the 3D printed plastic parts. Both not a good idea if you ask me.
Agreed. Not to mention the MGN rails/blocks are not made for the forces which show up in a router/mill and the seals on em are also not going to stop dirt from getting into them, which will drastically reduce the lifetime. The spindle VFD is also not correctly configured if the spindle can be stalled without faulting it out, which is dangerous as there is a chance it burns up.
I agree about the plastic, I'd either cast or machine out of brass or bronze
Your completely wrong about the frame, but correct about the 3d printed parts.
Damn the camera work and editing is spot on here! And what a nice project! I this basically your job as well? Designing? As it almost looks like you're just building a kit you bought. :)
Awesome machine! Learning the speed/feed/tooling etc is the easy part now!
Damn! That is a lot of work! Impressed that you managed to weld it together without horrific warping throwing it out of square and match up the segments/right parts😅
Problem is, you only need .010” to give real problems. Perhaps there were squaring steps not shown.
That’s an upgrade - nice! I built a small CNC mill before with mineral casting base - you might enjoy watching it :)
Not to take away from your design and build abilities, but I'm just as impressed with your video editing skills, too! Great job, mi amigo!
That video was mesmerizing to watch.
You're a remarkable talent.
5-Stars!
brilliant! Thank you SO MUCH for sharing your knowledge! well done mate 🙏🏻
this is how the grey goo machines start, just a man making machines to make more machines
i am evolved from green goo
I spy a Thin Sheet Rivet Nut tool getting some good use!!!
They’re great and do a really tidy job!
You can also get rivet nuts that are countersunk, which is useful!
Great build!
Here, they are a disaster. Completely out of place. I cringed when he was using this.
Great video , the machine is a really cool design , have fun with it !! well done
Amazing.. You're in a whole other level, almost god level (not there yet, but almost there).. Keep going!
Nice build ! With this speed of iteration, I bet you'll have the best diy desktop CNC soon :)
There are really fundamental problems with the design. He has a way to go. The video was very enjoyable.
Nice machine! get some way-covers on that and you'll have a nice little work horse!
Welding side panels onto the base will help with stiffness. Though ultimately you're probably limited by mounting the linear rails on the side of a tube. I'm not sure I'd trust the riv-nuts clamping the Z either. They might un-crimp over time.
Ficou ótima sua máquina, parabéns.
Nice job on the video and the build. Definitely look at moving the y motor to the front, put a skin on the machine, and fill with casting cement/epoxy. Make sure to add in a means to bolt it down to help add additional weight too as you may find you want more later. You could also modify your y setup some to add a catch basin in the cement with a drain, so you can make a liquid cooling setup. The Z extension can be tied to the rest of the body with the epoxy cement core and help move the vibration to a much higher frequency to help reduce chatter at lower speeds. Adding a bolted on solid base with a vibration absorbing material will help further, but will also likely bounce the vibrations back to the top of the Z, so if you go that far, you will have to do some tests to find where the sweet spot is. There are some nice accelerometer testers you can get these days to test for vibrations at cheap diy prices due to the Voron push in 3d printing.
Ivan. may i congratulate you for your damn impressive improvement! you have NO clue how big an inspiration you are! im sad im in no position to be a Patrion of yours. but i really hope you will keep it up and stay positive as always! thanks for every single video!
Estás loco Ivan, la madre de todas la CNC homemade, ya veremos como mejoras tu conocimiento usándola, un trabajo extraordinario excelente, felicitaciones.
Nice project
Nice video editing
Thx for your time !!
honestly, for you to make a nice machine with very little machinist training is very impressive. Keep up the great work.
I have learned the hard way not to eyeball mitres when welding, I use magnetic angles every time now, one mitre slightly out can affect the rest of the build and making a whole lot of correctional work for you, is that why you cut loads of welds?
Honestly I would love for a magnetic angle to be strong enough to withstand the pull of a cooling weld but any welder would tell you to clamp it (which I did).
@@ivanmirandawastaken a welder friend of mine literally just cuts temporary gusset plates and tacks them first to act as a clamp and angle guide. It works great and you can reuse the sheet metal a bunch of times by just grinding the tack tabs off.
Taking the time to make a few gusset guides can save a bunch of time and keep everything perfectly aligned while you work and you don’t have to worry about clamps slipping out of allignment or bumping anything.
Obviously super thin sheet metal might bend during welding, but there is a sweet spot of thin enough to easshape as needed and thick enough to be a strong guide.
Hope this helps.
@@ivanmirandawastaken There are clamps spefically designed to hold the parts whilst welding, the clamp the 2 parts seperately and one of the clamps can be rotated over the base to set the correct angle.
I accidently on purpose bought some giant pillow blocks... like 1.5 inch diameter (linear bearing on a round rail) and GIANT steppers. They are made for a CNC and are industrial american made. I was looking for larger parts for a larger 3d printer (around 600 cubed) but these are massive. I need to make a CNC machine now. The cool thing is that the 1.5 inch rails are available on ebay used (and slightly out of spec i would assume) for under a hundred bucks a pair x 600 long.
There should be no question that the motors can do the job. I do need to supply 100v to them. The actual spindle is the only thing... as soon as I can figure the spindle and the motor control on the cheap it should be good.
I love watching your machines get better and better! What are these fasteners you're using at 1:55?
Would be great to see an automatic tool changer, really excited to see what you can add with time, great work!
There's something about your video's that make me want to go and MAKE SOMETHING!
excellent job on the welding, it's a much greater way to fasten a machine base together with a much more rigid body. as the other guys mention, do a cast epoxy granite mill and then you'll have the most rigid machine, also I'd recommend looking into getting a good cnc spindle, with roller bearings or angular contact ball bearings that are designed to take the load better than the chineseium spindles
also please properly mount that to a work bench with screws and not rubber feet, overall great mill and very interesting watch
if you have any issues with vibrations you could try filling the inside of the box tubing with concrete or resin.
I'd box in as much of the open structure as you can with 4 or 5mm sheet steel. It would make the frame a lot more rigid, even if they were only attached with bolts into the frame (Rather than welded in). It would help get rid of some of the tool chatter marks in the work.
Bolts are way better than welding. You want rubbing action under vibration. It’s a very big job to do this as you want intimate contact with no bending.
Very nice machine Ivan!!
I am wondering witch CNC contoroller you are using?
Keep on the good work.
Machine looks amazing!! My husband and I really liked you’re video. We’re thinking about doing something similar
nice work man, amazing setup
Nice Job! Nice design... I like your great design abillity!!
What happened to the "Hello everyone!". Missed that. Felt like coming home, hearing that at the beginning of each video 😊
Amazing project and I have no doubt your machining skills will improve massively. Keep it up!
Looks like there was less drilling and tapping in this version, but I suppose the welding made up for that. 😁 Mark II looks great! Wonder what Mark III will bring... Thanks for sharing!
Great project Ivan! I was wondering... those plates look like aluminum, how did you protect them against galvanic corrosion? The video doesn't show. And the frame is steel...
This is dammed impressive. I honestly wouldn't know where to start! Great job!
Very nice work Ivan. Love it.
Ivan Good job , After you machine replacement mounts for the steppers. Fill the frame tubes with resin concrete, or sand to dampen vibrations and make it quieter also given the size/rigidity of this machine i would use smaller end-mills at faster rpm and slow down cutting speed.
When using a vice, the area being milled needs to be between the vice surfaces. The overhang flexes and throws off your accuracy. Your frame needs much more bracing under your table as well. The tool pushes down on the x and y axis and there is no support underneath. Even 2 uprights directly under the center of the base will reduce flex by a ton. Ideally, you would make a box around the frame and fill it with a mixture of granite and epoxy. It will give you the strength of a professional machine this way.
He also needs Motor mounts and spindle nut mounts of metal. It can only be as stiff as it's weakest link. And these ultimately have to bear all the loads
I find that minor overhang is fine. Source: I can mill parts within 0.0005" completely manually with perfect perpendicularity.
Awesome, well done Ivan! 👍
Hey Ivan, great video like always but can you show us how you do your electronics in more detail? For some people a second channel where you explain your projects in a very low effort, one take kind of video would be amazing! Thank you!
hey Ivan any chance you have the gcodes/stl available for the printed parts? love the work keep it up
Wait... how did I miss this? Oh, there's a Part 2 already?
My day just turned amazing. 😁
Stellar fab job.
TO help with getting those screws through the square tubes to the other side easier, I've started using magnetic tape (just strong enough to hold the screw in) wrapped around a straw. Just push the straw against the screw hole/port and bing bang boom no more drops.
yes man finally :D gonna be a sick video for sure
15:58 the chips can block the rails. Maybe a cover attached to the main block would be nice. A 3-D printed accordion design could be used which shrinks and grows.
Video editing skills are just as good as your fabrication skills. Well done.
Whow great! I'm dreaming to have a CNC mill for soo long but can't afforn to buy one. Maybe sometime I can build a similar one. Thanks very much for this build video which inspired me.
Good idea with the printed protective hose cable holder for the steppers. Is there a STL model available somewhere? Thx
Wow you've gotten so good at welding!!!
Gotta love the editing!
You have probably heard someone recommend a mist sprayer for milling before right? Kool mist is a leader and they have a non toxic concentrate also, you gotta be careful what you spray in the air and always have a exhaust fan which you should have anyways for that cool shop.
When I saw that chunk of 6082 , I knew exactly what I wanted to do with my life . Thanks .
Good job sir. Are the X,Y,Z axis controlled with stepper or servo and how much torque or power needed?
Hi Ivan,
Where did you source the adjustable feet and rivet threads from?
I need some for an upcoming project of mine!
Cheers from down under, mate!
Esto ya es otra cosa, la otra era un juguete! Gran trabajo
does the linear slide need to be covered?
surely having alumunium chips stuck between the linear slide is a good idea?
hello, what engines have you used for the movements and for the splinder? very good videos!
You knew exactly what i needed!!