Please take some advice from a former industrial mechanic: When drilling, turn the vice in such a way that the rotating lever rests against the stand of the machine. Turn your vice 170°. That way, when the part gets caught by the drill, the drill will hopefully slip in the chuck. But not tear your hand off. Also, since no inertia can build up, way less danger of something coming loose and transforming into a turning knive. When cutting steel (drilling, tapping) *please* use coolant. Your tools will thank you. When filing or deburring, the working motion should be away from you. The file works like a saw. You don't pull a saw, you push it. That being said, amazing project! Good work. I'm impressed :D
@Tzuede Off the Cuff Japanese razer saws cut on the pull, and Western/European saws cut on the push. If I tried to cut on the push with my ryoba or my dozuki, I'd be making a file card from the broken blades and waiting for the new blades to come in.
@@Rottwiler44 Yeah, western style handsaws are torture once you've tried a good Japanese saw. I wish there were pull cut files too. Sometimes I flip them around and hold by the tip just so I can pull cut :)
SO NOW THAT YOU HAVE THE ALUMINUM cnc you can make steel parts for next upgrade and after that use steel one to make titanium parts and then use ..........
The "This old Tony" in joke of cutting bar stock by dropping it, snapping it, or one inch punching it has become an online engineering meme that's been given a nod to by near as damn it every other engineering channel out there. The blokes a legend in this particular quirky form of comedy......... Now, just picture him paying homage to Ivan's channel by building something and saying "OK, this bearings going to need some clearance, so I'll just go turn up........ aaaaaaa SPACER !!!!!!". I think I'd laugh so hard I'd choke to death !!! :D
this old tony would cry if he saw this. this is terrible engineering. for instance, those "spacers!!" directly influence the stifness of the machine. stiffness in a milling machine is everything. nontheless a cool project, but still the corners he cut to get it done are the tiny details that transform a decent machine to a very good machine.
@@slaapkonijn58 Considering that Ivan isn't a trained engineer, I think what he's built isn't too shabby. As I said elsewhere on this comments page, There's a few parts where I thought "Why the hell do he do this like that ?!?!?", But I quickly realised that it's because he's come to CNC metal machining from the world of 3D printing. He's used to designing things to be "Built" one layer at a time out of plastic. It's going to take him a while to mentally adjust to this new "Material removal" way of construction. I'm actually REALLY looking forward to see how he thinks out other projects in the future. Because he's not got the blinkers that being taught "The right way to do things" puts on us, it should be really interesting to see his alternative solutions to problems that our tunnel visioned view made us think could only be solved one way.
Stepper motors can get very, very hot, PLA softens at temperatures as low as 60º. You could have pulled it off if you had used filaments with higher melting temperatures. But nothing beats a full metal cnc, the rigidity is just so much better.
After designing and building 3 CNC mills + routers I would do just one thing different from what I see here. Start by making all of your flat aluminum components out of either MDF ( aka Medite ) or furniture grade plywood as accurately as you can. Assembly your machine as accurately as possible and really tune it up. Now you have a decent CNC router that will make very high quality aluminum parts which you can make one by one to replace your temporary MDF parts. A true bootstrap operation.
Man, watching cnc routers and fdm printers do their thing is so incredibly satisfying and mezmerizing! Some people stare into a campfire or their fishtank for a while, i loose my self in watching my printers (and maybe a cnc router in the future) do their thing
Fascinating bootstrapping. 3d printer makes cnc plastic parts, cnc makes alu parts for itself. What's next, cnc makes 3d printer parts? Great job! Very inspiring.
There are some pretty nice designs out there for 3D printable vice jaw covers. They have a magnet so they magnetize onto the standard jaws. I've been using them for years and they're really handy just drop them on the vise. They hold in place and you can grab something without marring it. That being said I like the ingenuity on the wood ones :-)
@@clanross62 different strokes for different folks. My printed ones have held up for multiple years now and I don't have to zip tie it onto the vise. But everyone has their own way.
Maybe a small project idea, you seem to have the tools for it: soft jaws for your vice. 3D print some covers for the steel jaws of the vice to protect your parts. Or even remove the vice jaws and have a giant hunk of plastic to bolt there instead of the metal jaws. There's usually 2 bolts holding each jaw face on there. This was pretty cool! Seeing a CNC machine make parts for itself. It's like the MC Escher print of the hand drawing the other hand. Life imitating art.
Hi there! You can save a LOT of filing time with a Scotchbrite grinding wheel. Get the grey ones for aluminum and steel, mount on a bench grinder and have a go. :-)
Interesting dust shoe design. The downdraught of the router is carried away through the tube. So nothing is blown all over the shop. I've bought a watercooled spindle to get over that, hopefully my dustshoe will then be more effective. Great channel, love your thinking!
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the CNC bit isn't completely perpendicular to the workpiece, is it? At least, I'd say that's the reason for the very clear patterns you can see on the finished metal wrench
Good eye! The top and bottom router mounts aren't equal and the router is tilted, I luckily I used the walls along the Y to judge the straightness of the cuts but yes, I need to redo those two parts so the router is orthogonal to the workpiece. As a funny side note, the router was originally tilted the other way due to the 3D printed parts giving to the weight of the router. Thanks! edit: I just realised that after finishing editing the video.
@@ivanmirandawastaken Quick recommendation: Check out the "Everman belt drive". It could be a cheap upgrade that would significantly reduce the deflection caused by the belts, and reduce the tension needed on the whole belt.
Ivan, if you added a mdf web or “diaphragm” between the steel tubes of the gantry it would stiffen it considerably. Maybe dampen vibration as well. You could add one vertically or add them horizontally and at 45 degrees to make a space frame. That would provide torsional rigidly as well. Or you could 3D print truss webbing. Probably not quite as stiff or dampening. Maybe do a video testing if it does stiffen the gantry? Awesome build by the way!
If you connect the Steel rods in the middle you will increase the stiffness a Lot. Great Project. I gave up optimizing my mpcnc. Good decision when i See the amount of Work.
I would add a tub and water pump to keep the metal cool and to remove metal particles from the work project. Add a filtering screen to protect the pump. Another benefit to keeping the bit cool is that they will last longer and prevent dulling.
I have been watching for over a year now, Ivan, and I have to say that I enjoy my "weekly visits to my crazy cousin's maker lab." I love watching you work on these machines and learn something every time. Plus, the music is always fun. Thank you.
Nice! Now, try and use the mill like it should be used: spiral down to a nice depth, 8mm or something like that. Now, cut with the SIDE of the bit, instead of the end. So, at full depth, just take off 1mm at a time. The adaptive clearing function in fusion is perfect to do this. With the right speeds and feeds, you should get beautiful chips flying of the bit instead of powder. BTW, a fogbuster is a great addition too. Keep up the good work!
@Tzuede Off the Cuff didn't you see the machine milling at full depth, full pass without anything really going wrong? That's quite an indication that this machine has the capability to do some serious milling:)
I was trained as a metal machinist, and I kept seeing design features on this that made me think "Why the hell did he design these parts to fit together like like that?". Most of the things I noticed weren't really any better or worse than the "Normal" way to do things, Just an unusual and unexpected way. It dawned on me about half way through that Ivan came to engineering from the world of 3D printing where you try to design strength into something by adding material (And therefor, Printing time) only where needed. I come from an industry where you primarily machine to get clearance for other components, and only spend the extra time needed to remove unnecessary metal if part of the design brief calls for lightness. He comes from an engineering situation where the fasteners are stronger than the material that the structures made from. He's learnt that you can't put high loads on threads in the structural material. He's come to mechanical design with a completely different mind set compared to what people trained in engineering have. It then became REALLY interesting to watch the unusual design choices and understanding why those choices were made. As I said, I couldn't see anything that was intrinsically flawed, But there was a lot of slightly odd design ideas that could be useful things to keep in mind for if they would be a more appropriate solution in any of my future projects.
I struggle to change the mindset indeed! I'm restrained by the thickness of what I could cut. Now I can cut thicker materials so I can just make more stuff in a single more sturdier part. Thanks!
@@ivanmirandawastaken I wasn't criticising you mate. We think out solutions based on previous experience and whatever knowledge had been given to us. You've got a quite rare set of previous engineering experiences that give your solutions an unusual quantity that's very interesting, even to a seasoned engineer. It's leading me to believe that my engineering education may have given me a kind of tunnel vision with regards to thinking up solutions to engineering problems. I only have the set of "approved" solutions I was taught (Plus some shortcuts I've learnt along the way) in my mental toolbox of options. You on the other hand were never taught that "this is how something HAS to be done", so you try other ideas out, and find that a fair few work just fine. I'm thinking I could learn a lot from watching how you do things differently to how I would have done them, then pondering about the benefits and drawbacks of both solutions.
@@TheRainHarvester It's mainly things like drilling right through some plates and adding longer bolts with a nut on the other side rather than tapping the through hole and just bolting into that. There's also some parts that use a "T slot" that a bolt head slips into, Like the belt adjustment clamps at 16:50 and 17:57, and how the top plate on the X axis carriage is attached at 18:02. Most "Trained" engineers would have probably drilled and tapped the bottom plate of the clamps and threadlocked a length of allthread into them for the belt adjustment, Or threaded the part all the way through and had the bolt the other way around. The end plate on the X carriage would have been attached by drilling 3 or 4 holes through the end plate and into the edge of the carriage, Then tapping the carriages holes and drilling the plates holes for bolt clearance. I've seen some lightweight Chinese "Hobby" machinery that use T slot's to hold thin sheet metal in place edge on, But that tends to be done because it's the cheapest way to attach non structural or low stressed parts together. I've never seen it scaled up and used on a structural joint before, But looking at it, I can't see it being any weaker than the parts being threaded and held together with smaller bolts (Smaller due to the constraints of the materials thickness) As I said, There's nothing wrong with how Ivan's done things here, It just feels really odd after you've been taught "If you're fixing parts [XYZ] together you HAVE to do it THIS way" to see things successfully done quite differently.
@@Reman1975 thanks for this write up! After making my cnc (on my channel) if I made another, I'd design it with adjustability in mind. Do you think one of these ways allows for adjustability? (T slot vs tapped holes?) I'm guessing tapped holes would be better because the unthreaded plate's holes could be made bigger so the plate could adjust. But I don't know if that works with tapered holes, so maybe adjustability is still not possible?
You should put some squares (triangular ones for instance, like the ones that support the gantry) at the corners of your plate and on the gantry also,. That will severely increase rigidity
I remember commenting on his first cnc machine saying something like: Great now you can use your 3d printed cnc to build a metal one. And here we are 😉🙌👌 Now lets upgrade it with some ball screws instead of belts 😏
@@ivanmirandawastaken 😂 Thats what i like about you. You actually do it. most people including me only talk about it while ending up watching youtube vids instead. You inspire me to upgrade my own mpcnc so thats what i'll do! 🙌
Usually to clean edges of parts up from break off tabs we use a die grinder with various sanding bits. we also use a deburing knife to clean all the sharp edges if there was not a chamfer used. The upgrade looks good. interested to see what you shall make next with it.
Hi Ivan, just a hint for tapping, first countersunk, than tap, makes it easier an you do not destroy/damage the tappings :D Nice Work - What was first Egg or Cicken ? At 11:10 the bearings as guide for the belt, instead putting each on a extwnsion, make a Part connecting both as a spacer, maybe additionaly connected to the sidewall to perform more stiffnes - I would think although the screw seams to be big, it will bend over time, the belt tension schould not be underetimated. Same at 17:29. 18:39 use a ballscrw instead a trapziodal, less to no backlash. 18:57 heatsink on the stepper not needed - ist connected to th aluplate, that is enough - maybe finetune the spepper settings eg. current etc. Change the connection to the baseplate, the plastics might not hold enough when milling metal I think, make some ALU brackets instead. Why did you not replace all ALU pipes? only the Yaxis ones? But never the less quite well done
Just be carefull, when operating a drill with a glove on. Sure, chips are hot an sharp, but eventually, the glove gets caught and you'll regret putting your hand in it.
I run the drill with the belt loose just for that reason, I can make it stall just by grabbing the chuck, but if the part flies of my hand and starts spinning it will slice my hand open hence the gloves. Good advice! Thanks!
@@CemeteryLarry I got my hand and arm tangled around the cylindrical part on the Lathe while wearing gloves. The machine caught my gloves while I was sanding the part. Almost lost my fingers. I completely understand where you're coming from. I had that mentality when I was a stubborn 19 years old. I've learned my lesson. I'm now 25 and wished I didn't get the scars.
Got a t-shirt stuck in a drill bit once. I'm lucky it was a hand drill so I could just pull my finger off the trigger. Even so, it tangled up so fast I got a nasty gash on my stomach. If it was a mill or a drill press... well, I don't want to imagine that. Loose clothing and gloves getting grabbed is no wives tale
I ended up doing the same. Bought a cheap Ender 3, modded that to the extent maybe 1 profile is the only thing original on the machine, then thought of building my own large 3D printer, but the main thing I disliked about most 3D printers is that they are wobbly as all hell with the tiny 2020 profiles and plastic parts. So instead I used my upgraded Ender to build a basic benchtop CNC that can deal with aluminium. And used that to start milling parts to build a 3D printer with larger profiles (2040/4040/4080/8080/20120, etc) and a CNC with aluminium parts where they were useful to sturdy things up. Then I bought one of those micro lathes, upgraded the crap out of that with the CNC and now I'm using that to make new parts for the other two. And I'm guessing once I'm done with that, I'm going to feel like neither of the 3 is capable or big enough and start building bigger and stronger versions of all 3. I wonder if there's an endpoint in this hobby, the better you make your tools, the more ways you figure out to make your tools better and so on and so on XD
OK, now This Old Tony' videos makes sense. To machine metal: step one is build a time machine😎 Seriously, I love the fact that you used your CNC to improve your CNC!
@Tzuede Off the Cuff very true; i was just thinking there was enough flow and pressure to be able to blow the chips away so he didnt have to add anything more then a 3d printed duct.
I'm actually impressed that was able to cut aluminum at all, what was the depth of cut, looked like maybe 0.5mm? I'm designing my own upgrade to 2.2kw for better aluminum milling.
Outstanding project! And so many steps done by hand, with precision and dedication to every detail! I wonder if it would be possible to make an all in one motion system with all the knowledge you have acquired with your builds. The linar rails and all metal construction would be perfect, I'd just change the design of the Z-axis to something like the Lowrider CNC does: Two screw drives on the outside of the machine, which can move below the table surface. That way, the Z height is only restricted by the table height, and you could install a heated bed and an extruder and have a large printer (Vulcan extruder?). Some kind of quick swap mounting system with only a few screws or clips, and you got yourself a capable machine for almost any task, you could even mount a laser and a stepper driven rotary chuck for machining round stuff! Just an idea to save some workshop space :)
This is the true reprap spirit..machine making its own better version, like evolution..goid one Evan..now learn to anodize aluminum and color it red for your spacers!! :)
Build a belt sander to help lessen the file work. Also a drum sanding tool for your drill press would be a help for the inside arcs. I like your technique. Thanks for the video.
Awesome work! Now you need a proper CNC spindle. The wood router minimum RPM is still too high for steel!! Pro tip: Files works only in one direction. Pulling on the file is like trying to drill rotating the bit counter-clockwise!
I'd like to have that kind of people as you are around me! With so genius ideas and skill. I think it would be fun!!! :)) Would you consider to make a CNC Welder machine next? )))
Please take some advice from a former industrial mechanic:
When drilling, turn the vice in such a way that the rotating lever rests against the stand of the machine. Turn your vice 170°. That way, when the part gets caught by the drill, the drill will hopefully slip in the chuck. But not tear your hand off. Also, since no inertia can build up, way less danger of something coming loose and transforming into a turning knive.
When cutting steel (drilling, tapping) *please* use coolant. Your tools will thank you.
When filing or deburring, the working motion should be away from you. The file works like a saw. You don't pull a saw, you push it.
That being said, amazing project! Good work. I'm impressed :D
Any sort of cutting lubricant to get the chips out. Was biting my nails thinking about a broken tap.
@Tzuede Off the Cuff hahaha nothing beats experience. But well, I'm not judging you. Do it your way. Greetings from overseas.
@Tzuede Off the Cuff Japanese razer saws cut on the pull, and Western/European saws cut on the push. If I tried to cut on the push with my ryoba or my dozuki, I'd be making a file card from the broken blades and waiting for the new blades to come in.
@@Rottwiler44 Yeah, western style handsaws are torture once you've tried a good Japanese saw. I wish there were pull cut files too. Sometimes I flip them around and hold by the tip just so I can pull cut :)
Some kind of file are both-directions symetric. And... you don't know Japanese pull saws? :)
SO NOW THAT YOU HAVE THE ALUMINUM cnc you can make steel parts for next upgrade and after that use steel one to make titanium parts and then use ..........
It is never going to end, is it?
@@ivanmirandawastaken it will be called the Mirandisation of Machines
@@ivanmirandawastaken sorry, that is the price of being a genius inventor
GOLD - the ultimate metal is gold, one of the hardest metals known to man! (That's not true at all, but having a gold CNC machine would be so bling)
I'm willing to pay it then
Your 3d printing channel is turning into a machining channel. This Old Tony would be proud.
The "This old Tony" in joke of cutting bar stock by dropping it, snapping it, or one inch punching it has become an online engineering meme that's been given a nod to by near as damn it every other engineering channel out there. The blokes a legend in this particular quirky form of comedy......... Now, just picture him paying homage to Ivan's channel by building something and saying "OK, this bearings going to need some clearance, so I'll just go turn up........ aaaaaaa SPACER !!!!!!". I think I'd laugh so hard I'd choke to death !!! :D
this old tony would cry if he saw this. this is terrible engineering. for instance, those "spacers!!" directly influence the stifness of the machine. stiffness in a milling machine is everything.
nontheless a cool project, but still the corners he cut to get it done are the tiny details that transform a decent machine to a very good machine.
@@slaapkonijn58 Considering that Ivan isn't a trained engineer, I think what he's built isn't too shabby.
As I said elsewhere on this comments page, There's a few parts where I thought "Why the hell do he do this like that ?!?!?", But I quickly realised that it's because he's come to CNC metal machining from the world of 3D printing. He's used to designing things to be "Built" one layer at a time out of plastic. It's going to take him a while to mentally adjust to this new "Material removal" way of construction.
I'm actually REALLY looking forward to see how he thinks out other projects in the future. Because he's not got the blinkers that being taught "The right way to do things" puts on us, it should be really interesting to see his alternative solutions to problems that our tunnel visioned view made us think could only be solved one way.
Stepper motors can get very, very hot, PLA softens at temperatures as low as 60º. You could have pulled it off if you had used filaments with higher melting temperatures. But nothing beats a full metal cnc, the rigidity is just so much better.
I pulled it off
After designing and building 3 CNC mills + routers I would do just one thing different from what I see here. Start by making all of your flat aluminum components out of either MDF ( aka Medite ) or furniture grade plywood as accurately as you can. Assembly your machine as accurately as possible and really tune it up. Now you have a decent CNC router that will make very high quality aluminum parts which you can make one by one to replace your temporary MDF parts. A true bootstrap operation.
Man, watching cnc routers and fdm printers do their thing is so incredibly satisfying and mezmerizing!
Some people stare into a campfire or their fishtank for a while, i loose my self in watching my printers (and maybe a cnc router in the future) do their thing
I think the next stage is to cnc a mill, then mill the tools to make a 3d printer by hand, and so on ad infinitum
Incredible work! You are good with taps. I'd have broken a hundred if those things.
3D Printer -> Plastic CNC -> Metal CNC. Bravo!
I think is Ivan very good at being patient when it comes to processing metal, both with and without power tools.
I build a kit CNC this week from scratch. Very impressive that you design your own. It’s not as easy as it seems 😅
Fascinating bootstrapping. 3d printer makes cnc plastic parts, cnc makes alu parts for itself. What's next, cnc makes 3d printer parts? Great job! Very inspiring.
That was a considerable upgrade.
A very useful one indeed!
There are some pretty nice designs out there for 3D printable vice jaw covers. They have a magnet so they magnetize onto the standard jaws. I've been using them for years and they're really handy just drop them on the vise. They hold in place and you can grab something without marring it. That being said I like the ingenuity on the wood ones :-)
5 min to make wood, vs forever to print and wood is more durable.
@@clanross62 different strokes for different folks. My printed ones have held up for multiple years now and I don't have to zip tie it onto the vise. But everyone has their own way.
Ivan I love your builds and how excited you sound talking about them.
I am!
18:49 These 4 long bolts have nothing stopping them from becoming loose over time from the base end.
Or Pillow Block Flange Mounted Bearing?
Maybe a small project idea, you seem to have the tools for it: soft jaws for your vice. 3D print some covers for the steel jaws of the vice to protect your parts. Or even remove the vice jaws and have a giant hunk of plastic to bolt there instead of the metal jaws. There's usually 2 bolts holding each jaw face on there.
This was pretty cool! Seeing a CNC machine make parts for itself. It's like the MC Escher print of the hand drawing the other hand. Life imitating art.
Hi there! You can save a LOT of filing time with a Scotchbrite grinding wheel. Get the grey ones for aluminum and steel, mount on a bench grinder and have a go. :-)
Really nice to see you not wasting some of the metal and putting it aside!
Interesting dust shoe design. The downdraught of the router is carried away through the tube. So nothing is blown all over the shop. I've bought a watercooled spindle to get over that, hopefully my dustshoe will then be more effective. Great channel, love your thinking!
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the CNC bit isn't completely perpendicular to the workpiece, is it? At least, I'd say that's the reason for the very clear patterns you can see on the finished metal wrench
Good eye! The top and bottom router mounts aren't equal and the router is tilted, I luckily I used the walls along the Y to judge the straightness of the cuts but yes, I need to redo those two parts so the router is orthogonal to the workpiece. As a funny side note, the router was originally tilted the other way due to the 3D printed parts giving to the weight of the router. Thanks! edit: I just realised that after finishing editing the video.
@@ivanmirandawastaken Quick recommendation: Check out the "Everman belt drive". It could be a cheap upgrade that would significantly reduce the deflection caused by the belts, and reduce the tension needed on the whole belt.
@@ivanmirandawastaken would it be easier to cut out a traming plate to fit your existing bolt pattern?
@@ivanmirandawastaken make adjustable, because over time.......
@Ivan Miranda, redesign the carriage so that you can tram the mill to the workpiece. It's not a 3d printer that you're building here. Tram matters!
You should make the system rack and pinion. I believe this is how most DIY CNC's are built since it adds rigidity when machining
Ivan, if you added a mdf web or “diaphragm” between the steel tubes of the gantry it would stiffen it considerably. Maybe dampen vibration as well. You could add one vertically or add them horizontally and at 45 degrees to make a space frame. That would provide torsional rigidly as well. Or you could 3D print truss webbing. Probably not quite as stiff or dampening.
Maybe do a video testing if it does stiffen the gantry?
Awesome build by the way!
Good to see the new drill in use!
Yes! What a beast!
Next will be a CNC'd Plasma cutter used to plasma cut steel parts for a new CNC
That actually would not be a hard mod as you only need to get a plasma cutter.
If you connect the Steel rods in the middle you will increase the stiffness a Lot.
Great Project. I gave up optimizing my mpcnc. Good decision when i See the amount of Work.
I would add a tub and water pump to keep the metal cool and to remove metal particles from the work project. Add a filtering screen to protect the pump. Another benefit to keeping the bit cool is that they will last longer and prevent dulling.
I have been watching for over a year now, Ivan, and I have to say that I enjoy my "weekly visits to my crazy cousin's maker lab." I love watching you work on these machines and learn something every time. Plus, the music is always fun. Thank you.
The editing of this video is superb.
Nice! Now, try and use the mill like it should be used: spiral down to a nice depth, 8mm or something like that. Now, cut with the SIDE of the bit, instead of the end. So, at full depth, just take off 1mm at a time. The adaptive clearing function in fusion is perfect to do this. With the right speeds and feeds, you should get beautiful chips flying of the bit instead of powder.
BTW, a fogbuster is a great addition too. Keep up the good work!
@Tzuede Off the Cuff didn't you see the machine milling at full depth, full pass without anything really going wrong? That's quite an indication that this machine has the capability to do some serious milling:)
I'm calling it now. Ivan is working up to building a 5-axis cnc mill.
I was trained as a metal machinist, and I kept seeing design features on this that made me think "Why the hell did he design these parts to fit together like like that?". Most of the things I noticed weren't really any better or worse than the "Normal" way to do things, Just an unusual and unexpected way.
It dawned on me about half way through that Ivan came to engineering from the world of 3D printing where you try to design strength into something by adding material (And therefor, Printing time) only where needed. I come from an industry where you primarily machine to get clearance for other components, and only spend the extra time needed to remove unnecessary metal if part of the design brief calls for lightness. He comes from an engineering situation where the fasteners are stronger than the material that the structures made from. He's learnt that you can't put high loads on threads in the structural material. He's come to mechanical design with a completely different mind set compared to what people trained in engineering have. It then became REALLY interesting to watch the unusual design choices and understanding why those choices were made.
As I said, I couldn't see anything that was intrinsically flawed, But there was a lot of slightly odd design ideas that could be useful things to keep in mind for if they would be a more appropriate solution in any of my future projects.
I struggle to change the mindset indeed! I'm restrained by the thickness of what I could cut. Now I can cut thicker materials so I can just make more stuff in a single more sturdier part. Thanks!
@@ivanmirandawastaken I wasn't criticising you mate. We think out solutions based on previous experience and whatever knowledge had been given to us. You've got a quite rare set of previous engineering experiences that give your solutions an unusual quantity that's very interesting, even to a seasoned engineer.
It's leading me to believe that my engineering education may have given me a kind of tunnel vision with regards to thinking up solutions to engineering problems. I only have the set of "approved" solutions I was taught (Plus some shortcuts I've learnt along the way) in my mental toolbox of options.
You on the other hand were never taught that "this is how something HAS to be done", so you try other ideas out, and find that a fair few work just fine.
I'm thinking I could learn a lot from watching how you do things differently to how I would have done them, then pondering about the benefits and drawbacks of both solutions.
@@Reman1975 Very interested in those items you noticed as different. (I'm not an ME, but learned by trial from a cnc /woodworking perspective).
@@TheRainHarvester It's mainly things like drilling right through some plates and adding longer bolts with a nut on the other side rather than tapping the through hole and just bolting into that. There's also some parts that use a "T slot" that a bolt head slips into, Like the belt adjustment clamps at 16:50 and 17:57, and how the top plate on the X axis carriage is attached at 18:02. Most "Trained" engineers would have probably drilled and tapped the bottom plate of the clamps and threadlocked a length of allthread into them for the belt adjustment, Or threaded the part all the way through and had the bolt the other way around. The end plate on the X carriage would have been attached by drilling 3 or 4 holes through the end plate and into the edge of the carriage, Then tapping the carriages holes and drilling the plates holes for bolt clearance. I've seen some lightweight Chinese "Hobby" machinery that use T slot's to hold thin sheet metal in place edge on, But that tends to be done because it's the cheapest way to attach non structural or low stressed parts together. I've never seen it scaled up and used on a structural joint before, But looking at it, I can't see it being any weaker than the parts being threaded and held together with smaller bolts (Smaller due to the constraints of the materials thickness)
As I said, There's nothing wrong with how Ivan's done things here, It just feels really odd after you've been taught "If you're fixing parts [XYZ] together you HAVE to do it THIS way" to see things successfully done quite differently.
@@Reman1975 thanks for this write up! After making my cnc (on my channel) if I made another, I'd design it with adjustability in mind.
Do you think one of these ways allows for adjustability? (T slot vs tapped holes?) I'm guessing tapped holes would be better because the unthreaded plate's holes could be made bigger so the plate could adjust. But I don't know if that works with tapered holes, so maybe adjustability is still not possible?
You should put some squares (triangular ones for instance, like the ones that support the gantry) at the corners of your plate and on the gantry also,. That will severely increase rigidity
Fantastic Ivan!!! I am half way through making your CNC and will accept your challenge to make the aluminum update,,, thankyou.
Great work but you should always champfer your holes before tapping if possible as the champfer can rip the starting thread just a bit.
is that what he's doing afterwards? so best is before and after i guess?
Very cool upgrade!
I remember commenting on his first cnc machine saying something like: Great now you can use your 3d printed cnc to build a metal one. And here we are 😉🙌👌
Now lets upgrade it with some ball screws instead of belts 😏
It is all your fault
@@ivanmirandawastaken 😂 Thats what i like about you. You actually do it. most people including me only talk about it while ending up watching youtube vids instead. You inspire me to upgrade my own mpcnc so thats what i'll do! 🙌
Can't wait to se what kind of monstrosities you create with this beast!! So excite!!!
Thanks Welbot!
This looks amazing! I can already see industrial parts milled on it like gears and others!
Usually to clean edges of parts up from break off tabs we use a die grinder with various sanding bits. we also use a deburing knife to clean all the sharp edges if there was not a chamfer used. The upgrade looks good. interested to see what you shall make next with it.
MIND BLOWING! GREAT JOB!! 4 axis, Water-cooled Spindle next?
It's been great watching you grow from a small cupboard to a full workshop
All forms of performing arts, including mechanical sciences, are always such a pleasure to watch.
Hi Ivan, just a hint for tapping, first countersunk, than tap, makes it easier an you do not destroy/damage the tappings :D
Nice Work - What was first Egg or Cicken ?
At 11:10 the bearings as guide for the belt, instead putting each on a extwnsion, make a Part connecting both as a spacer, maybe additionaly connected to the sidewall to perform more stiffnes - I would think although the screw seams to be big, it will bend over time, the belt tension schould not be underetimated. Same at 17:29.
18:39 use a ballscrw instead a trapziodal, less to no backlash.
18:57 heatsink on the stepper not needed - ist connected to th aluplate, that is enough - maybe finetune the spepper settings eg. current etc.
Change the connection to the baseplate, the plastics might not hold enough when milling metal I think, make some ALU brackets instead.
Why did you not replace all ALU pipes? only the Yaxis ones?
But never the less quite well done
Just be carefull, when operating a drill with a glove on. Sure, chips are hot an sharp, but eventually, the glove gets caught and you'll regret putting your hand in it.
I run the drill with the belt loose just for that reason, I can make it stall just by grabbing the chuck, but if the part flies of my hand and starts spinning it will slice my hand open hence the gloves. Good advice! Thanks!
That’ll literally never happen, and is kind of an old wives tale, lol
@@CemeteryLarry I threw away that glove a few years ago, was also proving against your claim.
@@CemeteryLarry I got my hand and arm tangled around the cylindrical part on the Lathe while wearing gloves. The machine caught my gloves while I was sanding the part. Almost lost my fingers. I completely understand where you're coming from. I had that mentality when I was a stubborn 19 years old. I've learned my lesson. I'm now 25 and wished I didn't get the scars.
Got a t-shirt stuck in a drill bit once. I'm lucky it was a hand drill so I could just pull my finger off the trigger. Even so, it tangled up so fast I got a nasty gash on my stomach. If it was a mill or a drill press... well, I don't want to imagine that. Loose clothing and gloves getting grabbed is no wives tale
You have to be one of the most informative AND entertaining people on YT. Thank you!
Nice work. I like the leadscrew mount for the Z axis
Great job ! This turned out great, but I'm actually surprised that the bit didn't break from the big plunges at the start.
excellent work, glad to see I'm not the only one who doesn't check fits before assembly .:-)
using geared steppers is a really clever idea. Might have some issues with backlash, but that really depends
@Tzuede Off the Cuff I've never heard of steppers tracking backlash on geared motors. How is that accomplished ?
I hope to do this with my 3D printers soon. You’re amazing Ivan, and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise!
I ended up doing the same.
Bought a cheap Ender 3, modded that to the extent maybe 1 profile is the only thing original on the machine, then thought of building my own large 3D printer, but the main thing I disliked about most 3D printers is that they are wobbly as all hell with the tiny 2020 profiles and plastic parts.
So instead I used my upgraded Ender to build a basic benchtop CNC that can deal with aluminium.
And used that to start milling parts to build a 3D printer with larger profiles (2040/4040/4080/8080/20120, etc) and a CNC with aluminium parts where they were useful to sturdy things up.
Then I bought one of those micro lathes, upgraded the crap out of that with the CNC and now I'm using that to make new parts for the other two.
And I'm guessing once I'm done with that, I'm going to feel like neither of the 3 is capable or big enough and start building bigger and stronger versions of all 3.
I wonder if there's an endpoint in this hobby, the better you make your tools, the more ways you figure out to make your tools better and so on and so on XD
now you can CNC a steel 5 axis CNC🤣
this is the biggest flex yet, and the ultimate goal of every maker lol, nicely done!
OK, now This Old Tony' videos makes sense.
To machine metal: step one is build a time machine😎
Seriously, I love the fact that you used your CNC to improve your CNC!
You are my favorite TH-cam of all time
SPACERS! Great video Ivan! great passion
Spacers!!
Ivan, I seriously enjoy your channel. Thanks for sharing your projects.
Amazing! Top notch work here! I don’t know why but I suddenly NEED to be able to machine aluminum...NEED! Appreciate your hard work!
Love the wooden vise jaws.
Imagine the RC tanks with an aluminum chasis. Dope
Yes!
I'm thinking, imagine then with aluminum treads ;)
I hope i didnt accidentally revealed a spoiler. Heheheh
Great progression👍
Thanks!
Brilliant as always. So much drilling, cutting, tapping, filing. Loved the applause for the vice attachments. Cheers, JAYTEE
Now CNC a plastic CNC machine out of a big block of PLA! Great vid as always!
ok man how is it you kept my eyes on the video the entire 25 minutes? You're real good
What a beatiful period of life, when your work is your inspiration and a hobby in one thing. This videos schould be called "UPLIFLING CONSTRUCTION" =)
This is amazing. And no youpube commercials to sit through. Subed, thank you very much.
so much planning, skill and knowledge!
Way to go Ivan as usual another awesome build. Thanks from Canada
Hey Ivan, you should make a 3d printed adapter to capture the exhaust air from the router motor and use it as air blast chip evacuation.
@Tzuede Off the Cuff very true; i was just thinking there was enough flow and pressure to be able to blow the chips away so he didnt have to add anything more then a 3d printed duct.
Linear rails - excellent decision!
A belt grinder can be very helpful in cleaning edges and surfaces of milled parts.
Making a 3D printed CNC machine to cut metal parts for the CNC machine is just recursiveness joy! 😄😄
Well done Ivan, that's very impressive. It'll be very useful I'm sure.
I'm actually impressed that was able to cut aluminum at all, what was the depth of cut, looked like maybe 0.5mm? I'm designing my own upgrade to 2.2kw for better aluminum milling.
You're the first guy I've ever seen chamfer after taping a hole.
Yes, I was going to comment on that, plus those threads would have been pretty manky using that drill and leaning all over the place like that.
Now time to make a 4-axis attachment using 3d printed and machined parts!
Title is a bit misleading with all the manual work you put into the thing, but satisfying to watch regardless!
At 10:16, I totally saw that coming! SPACER!
you now need to get some unobtainium and CNC that :) awesome build and video thanks heaps for sharing.
Ivan..
Only one thing to do know...
Make a mountable 4axis...
That would be hella cool...
Just bought this project 💪
Outstanding project! And so many steps done by hand, with precision and dedication to every detail!
I wonder if it would be possible to make an all in one motion system with all the knowledge you have acquired with your builds. The linar rails and all metal construction would be perfect, I'd just change the design of the Z-axis to something like the Lowrider CNC does: Two screw drives on the outside of the machine, which can move below the table surface. That way, the Z height is only restricted by the table height, and you could install a heated bed and an extruder and have a large printer (Vulcan extruder?). Some kind of quick swap mounting system with only a few screws or clips, and you got yourself a capable machine for almost any task, you could even mount a laser and a stepper driven rotary chuck for machining round stuff! Just an idea to save some workshop space :)
nice bootstrap upgrade...
now you need coolant spraying ;-)
Congratulations, it is beautiful.
The pain, why do you let it run when it fails! I will have a hard time sleeping efter seeing that :) Great job on the metal CNC.
It is called multitasking, or not paying attention to the right thing 😅 Thanks!
Nice, this guy is awesome
Hey! Thanks!
You should consider getting a tapping arbor. Or a tapping head for your drill press but those are steep.
Incredible build!
This is the true reprap spirit..machine making its own better version, like evolution..goid one Evan..now learn to anodize aluminum and color it red for your spacers!! :)
You could make more accurate matching holes by using transfer punches. They are very cheap to purchase.
Amazing work Ivan. I have wanted to get into CNC for years and this might finally get me into it.
Wonderful build- love it!
Ivan strikes again! Favourite Sub please never stop!!
You should add spacers (!) between your steel and aluminium pieces to avoid Galvanic Corrosion. Different metals tend to react to each other.
Build a belt sander to help lessen the file work. Also a drum sanding tool for your drill press would be a help for the inside arcs. I like your technique. Thanks for the video.
That is a huge amount of efforts, awesome!
Great video but where is the CNC router machining itself?
Take off glows all time when you working on column drill !!!!! "Master"
Very cool project! Your drag chain could go the other way so that it unwinds as the machine moves left (the bottom part remains stationary) ☺️
Awesome work! Now you need a proper CNC spindle. The wood router minimum RPM is still too high for steel!!
Pro tip: Files works only in one direction. Pulling on the file is like trying to drill rotating the bit counter-clockwise!
That belt tensioner is a piece of art😮🤯
I'd like to have that kind of people as you are around me! With so genius ideas and skill. I think it would be fun!!! :))
Would you consider to make a CNC Welder machine next? )))
wow this is an insane amount of work!