Great in depth video nice to see Techs with passion for the work! Where I live the common hallway for our apartment building went from 16 degrees Celsius to 23 degrees C but the humidity is extremely low, it’s below 20% or more and causing an instant headache from getting off the elevator. They’ve supposedly been here 3 times and lowered the temp 6 degrees F each time for the heat on the make up air unit with no improvements to either temp or humidity. (Actually it dropped 0.5 degrees Celsius) but the humidity is still extreme at less than 20% or more. Shouldn’t it be as simple as allow more outside air to mix with heated air? Or is it more complicated than that. It’s 32 degrees F outside. (I’m guessing more complicated after watching your video) I’m questioning the competency of the hvac company, however, they are a large name. It’s 3 visits and zero difference?! Building maintenance is sketchy in our place. A gas leak to for the boilers went unaddressed for months until the parking garage smelled more rotten. On call didn’t accept it as an emergency and after 2 calls over 5 days we called the gas company and they did a lock out tag out immediately, on call was upset I interrupted his dinner. To make it cooler to around 70 F and have about 40 -45% humidity from 73.4 F and less than 20% humidity (20 is the lowest my thermometer is able to display at which then only shows Low) I’m concerned for my health and there are a number of people with disabilities living here, myself included. Any advice would be golden or let me know if you need more info on the variables.
Hey man, I appreciate you making this video. I’ve got a few Rupp units that we just picked up on a contract and I was able to get them working but am not familiar with them. The one on the roof is a MUA type but the one inside the factory on the floor looks a like a stand alone AHU with a burner but it’s not direct fired where the one on the roof is. Do the upper louvers have to be open before running in high fire?
Is the pilot circuit from the fire eye to the pilot side of the gas valve always energized after flame has been achieved? This would be the blue and brown wire to the main gas valve.
Great video! I was wondering if you can help me out. I am trying to run power to this unit. My unit is a 208 3-phase. The unit specs that I run 3 hot wires (black) 1 neutral (white) and 1 ground (Green). Max amps is 15 so I am going to run a 3 pull 15 breaker. My unit has an added option of DCV-SF1 that requires a red wire to be hooked up also. My question is where does this red wire go? The black, white and green wires go back to the panel and are hooked onto the breaker. What am I supposed to do with the red wire? Does it go to the hood control unit. What even is a DCV-SF1 ?? Thanks!
I won't be able to answer your question fully since I'm not the manufacturer and this is a new install. The DCV should be a remote display that you use to toggle on and off the equipment. To use or bypass that remote should be in the wiring diagram. There are a few variations and I don't feel comfortable giving advice on an install that isn't under our company's license and insurance. You will need to get ahold of the manufacturer
I don't know the science between a flame sensor vs a thermocouple vs thermopile. I do know that flame sensors are often measured in micro amps depending on the ignition control. Thermopiles and thermocouples are measured in DC milivolts. This particular flame sense is read in DC volts and (don't quote me on it) is using the flame to complete the signal sent from the controller. The signal is pretty instant, so if I miss used the word then my apologies.
@@gtjdbydave Ah I think that makes sense, thanks for the response. If the flame is acting like a diode it makes sense that it’ll pass DC current. I think that with AC it actually does pass current in both directions but more in one than the other. The exact theory is kind of dizzying but the practical side of things is what’s most important sometimes.
Late to the show but… the flame controller reads the flame signal from the flame sensor, and converts it into a DC voltage to the TP1 and TP2 terminals. This is for your convenience so you can check flame sense using a basic meter.
I am a restaurant owner in Ontario, Canada. Our MUA unit has Maxitrol Selectra A1014R amplifier. Currently it is set at 50F and the sensitivity knob is set slightly above decrease. The honeywell thermostat is set at 40F. The heating on MUA kicks in fine but it is throwing insane amounts of heat. When it is 34F outside it brings up my whole restaurant to around 85F in a matter of 10 15 mins. Need help with this. What could possibly be wrong? I have had my installer in to fix it quite a few times. He seems to have no clue about how to fix it.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us new technicians out there, I love how you break things down
Great presentation
Liked and subscribed great walk through
Excellent video.
Good Explanation 👍
Great video
Great in depth video nice to see Techs with passion for the work! Where I live
the common hallway for our apartment building went from 16 degrees Celsius to 23 degrees C but the humidity is extremely low, it’s below 20% or more and causing an instant headache from getting off the elevator.
They’ve supposedly been here 3 times and lowered the temp 6 degrees F each time for the heat on the make up air unit with no improvements to either temp or humidity. (Actually it dropped 0.5 degrees Celsius) but the humidity is still extreme at less than 20% or more.
Shouldn’t it be as simple as allow more outside air to mix with heated air? Or is it more complicated than that. It’s 32 degrees F outside. (I’m guessing more complicated after watching your video)
I’m questioning the competency of the hvac company, however, they are a large name. It’s 3 visits and zero difference?! Building maintenance is sketchy in our place. A gas leak to for the boilers went unaddressed for months until the parking garage smelled more rotten. On call didn’t accept it as an emergency and after 2 calls over 5 days we called the gas company and they did a lock out tag out immediately, on call was upset I interrupted his dinner.
To make it cooler to around 70 F and have about 40 -45% humidity from 73.4 F and less than 20% humidity (20 is the lowest my thermometer is able to display at which then only shows Low) I’m concerned for my health and there are a number of people with disabilities living here, myself included.
Any advice would be golden or let me know if you need more info on the variables.
Great video sir, please give more details about this captive air unit.
Hey man, I appreciate you making this video. I’ve got a few Rupp units that we just picked up on a contract and I was able to get them working but am not familiar with them. The one on the roof is a MUA type but the one inside the factory on the floor looks a like a stand alone AHU with a burner but it’s not direct fired where the one on the roof is. Do the upper louvers have to be open before running in high fire?
short please do more of sequence of operation, thanks
i'm in the process of doing so, it'll take some time though
Thanks for the help! Do you know what kind of power opens the combination valve?
Is the pilot circuit from the fire eye to the pilot side of the gas valve always energized after flame has been achieved? This would be the blue and brown wire to the main gas valve.
if i understand your question the answer is yes
Are you checking micro amps for flame rect?
Great video! I was wondering if you can help me out. I am trying to run power to this unit. My unit is a 208 3-phase. The unit specs that I run 3 hot wires (black) 1 neutral (white) and 1 ground (Green). Max amps is 15 so I am going to run a 3 pull 15 breaker.
My unit has an added option of DCV-SF1 that requires a red wire to be hooked up also. My question is where does this red wire go? The black, white and green wires go back to the panel and are hooked onto the breaker. What am I supposed to do with the red wire? Does it go to the hood control unit. What even is a DCV-SF1 ??
Thanks!
I won't be able to answer your question fully since I'm not the manufacturer and this is a new install.
The DCV should be a remote display that you use to toggle on and off the equipment. To use or bypass that remote should be in the wiring diagram. There are a few variations and I don't feel comfortable giving advice on an install that isn't under our company's license and insurance. You will need to get ahold of the manufacturer
Isn’t flame rectification usually measured in microamps? Would the DC voltage be from a thermopile? Thank you for the information.
I don't know the science between a flame sensor vs a thermocouple vs thermopile. I do know that flame sensors are often measured in micro amps depending on the ignition control. Thermopiles and thermocouples are measured in DC milivolts. This particular flame sense is read in DC volts and (don't quote me on it) is using the flame to complete the signal sent from the controller. The signal is pretty instant, so if I miss used the word then my apologies.
@@gtjdbydave Ah I think that makes sense, thanks for the response. If the flame is acting like a diode it makes sense that it’ll pass DC current. I think that with AC it actually does pass current in both directions but more in one than the other. The exact theory is kind of dizzying but the practical side of things is what’s most important sometimes.
@@gtjdbydave A thermopile is just a grouping of thermocouples in one little package.
Late to the show but… the flame controller reads the flame signal from the flame sensor, and converts it into a DC voltage to the TP1 and TP2 terminals. This is for your convenience so you can check flame sense using a basic meter.
@@DavoKC great info, thank you.
what can be the issue if after checking airflow lights on goes to alarm.
👍👍👍
I am a restaurant owner in Ontario, Canada. Our MUA unit has Maxitrol Selectra A1014R amplifier. Currently it is set at 50F and the sensitivity knob is set slightly above decrease. The honeywell thermostat is set at 40F.
The heating on MUA kicks in fine but it is throwing insane amounts of heat. When it is 34F outside it brings up my whole restaurant to around 85F in a matter of 10 15 mins. Need help with this. What could possibly be wrong? I have had my installer in to fix it quite a few times. He seems to have no clue about how to fix it.
It needs the max fire setup correctly. Call a company that understands the unit.
Call CAS Service. That is CaptiveAires own internal service team. They have offices in Canada.