Thats dedication to run a review over such a long period of time!! I also like that you didn't try to pull any favours by mentioning your TH-cam channel and had the same kind of experience that any of us would have!
I've had the Nemesis 9000's for almost 8 years now, and I also have a Baja Designs 42 inch LED bar up under the roof rack. For long distance / open road / high speed travelling, I don't even bother turning on the LED bar - it doesn't come close to competing with the Fyrlyt's (and the Baja Designs bar is one of the best on the market). Off road - I use the LED bar. The Fyrlyts are not much use in that type of work as that is not what they are designed for. You are 100% right in your comments about the "warmer" colour in general and the CRI in particular. I travel regularly between Perth and Kalgoorlie, with the occasional trip across the Nullarbor. On these trips - the Fyrlyt is a far better light than anything LED (also better than HID) - especially if you have the Fyrlyt 9000's. Fyrlyt's after sales service is second to none - ring Paul if you have any issues at all. I experienced cracking with my original set of lenses. One phone call and a replacement set was in the mail at no cost to me. These have been on the vehicle for about 7 years now and the cracking of the lenses has not occurred again. As for the up/down movement of the lights - mine did a little bit until I read the instructions - there is a specific torque setting that the mounting bolt is meant to be tightened to. My lights have never moved since tightening to the recommended torque. Great to read such an honest and unbiased "warts and all" review of these lights, especially given the period of time you allowed to see how they really perform in a variety of conditions.
yeah i run the nemesis 9000, some places they are to good ...... major highways that have big refective signs, but once you get out into remote highways they are brilliant
I've got a pair of the LUXSIS 5000 and very happy with them, and agree 100%. Lets not forget, they're Australian made unlike 98% of all other driving lights on the market.
Can personally vouch for this company and these lights. Sold heaps of pairs, some Nemesis too - usually it's overkill. But Paul indeed was the Owner of the company and he's such a legend to talk to, absolutely fully of information and sooo helpful when it comes to warranty claims. They finally got their glass lens supplier too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Totally agree with you on the light rendering mate, I’ve got a set of Hella Rally 4000’s which have been on 2 cars and about to go onto my new car, had them for 12 years and in that time the only problem I’ve had is one globe replacement... that’s it! I’ve always had the temptation to go led but like you I find they’re not as hard on the eyes.👍
Great review. I’ve been running a 50" Rigid LED bar and cubes for 4 years but my best setup was IPF spotties and LED cubes similar to yours. I ran that setup while living 2 years in the rainforest jungle in Costa Rica. The warm light on the tight jungle tracks was unbeatable. Now you have me thinking again to add some spotties again.
Great vid Excellent review. I agree with you. I am an old bugger and I reckon my old Cibie Super Oscars were so much easier on your eyes than the LEDs I have now. I also think large road signs are a sight hazard with leds. Thanks
You get my vote!! its a pity there are not more halogen lights out there of quality, I grew up driving behind Cibie and later Lightforce! Good gear! Most of the current crop of LEDs are very bright but a complete detriment to seeing long range and long term at night
Back when I did a bit of rallying with Cibies we stopped them vibrating and going out of adjustment by cutting a big hose clamp in half and straightening it. Then fix one end to the top of the light and the other end to the grille area. With today's plastic grilles you may have to make a bracket but that's to be expected.
I'm still using my Super Oscars...purchased in 1983/4 Only thing is one cannot get the same globes anymore and i think because of that, they don't work as well. The originals were a really long almost double globe. One part had a small plate and the other a filament. Now you can only get the filament globe insert. I've always wondered just how good LEDs were in comparison to the Super Oscars.
@@groundgrabbatm6379 Tried LED's Went back to my Super Oscars.Far less glare easy on the eyes. I see skippys and wombats so much better. I would like to try the fyrlyt's but can't justify the expense on the chance they are as good or better. Currently I run 3 Super Oscars, two driving wth a pencil in the middle. :-)
I've been running FyrLyt for a few years now. Found the same with them moving with a physical knock but as you said, better than a broken housing. I rate them highly. I have a LED bar on the roof and run them together at times.
G'day Michael. A nice balanced review mate, as always. I've had the Nemesis 9000s since May and taken them from Canberra to Cape Tribulation and back via outback QLD and NSW, as well as a couple of Hume Highway runs back from Sydney. These lights haven't missed a beat and the reduction in eye fatigue can't be overstated. It's like driving through a tunnel of light, although a bit more spread at close range on very windy roads would be appreciated (your setup looks like a good solution). I had mine installed by a local auto-electrician and the installation was first class, with zero movement in the mounting brackets. Highly recommended.
Another awesome video Michael. It was a toss up when it came time to replace my driving lights. It came down to FyreLyte or LightForce. I went with HID LightForce and I’m pretty happy with them. But as you so eloquently pointed out the colour of the FyreLyte is so much easier on the eyes. I did a trip to Thargomindah with a mate who has these on his Patrol and I was really impressed. I have had the same problem with the mounts on my LightForce. They hate corrugations, however with these aimed in the right direction and the light bar on the roof they give great distance and spread. Well done on another informative video. Keep em coming. 👍
I’ve had a set for about 6 months.The lenses are just now starting to crack.Your experience pretty much mirrors mine, except for the loose connections.Good to hear about the customer service, I’ll be going back to the auto electrician this week and hitting them up for new lenses. Thank you for the review, the timing couldn’t be better.
@shane I'm in my 50s and i just get blinded when I am in a car with led or hid sure they are bright but for long drives at night the warmth that comes from halogen is much better to drive with, also I'm a hunter and i noticed that halogen spotlight does not cast a shadow over an animal at night unlike LED and animals like foxes bolt with led roos do the same. mine are 900s the ones that are submersible the lenses don't crack on water crossings at night with the heat. good point you made with 2nd hand as the yuppies are selling top name brand halogen spotlights for next to nix on ebay and gum tree
I've had fyrlyt's on my f truck for 9 years now and never had an issue with them, still got the original plastic covers on them as well, getting a bit hazy, but still working well. I have the 24 volt converter running 150 watt bulbs, never had to change one yet after 9 years. When you talk about value, i absolutely swear by these lights, just keep on keeping on. The colour is awesome, totally agree with you on that one, my eyes are 61 years young now and I wear prescription glasses, LED's are no good for people with glasses as the reflected blinding white light bounces off the back of my lenses, not good. FYRLYT's, love them and will never put anything else on the front of effy.
Halogen is the ultimate for colour rendering and very comfortable to drive behind. SO much better in the high country or coastal areas where there is moisture in the air also. Blue light scatters like crazy. I still have an old set of Cibie Super Oscars that i love but wouldnt mind trying a set of these. The designer knows his stuff way better than most.
i remember back in the days when we all had halogen and then the led came and it just was a nightmare in the night and when it rains even so so much worse. so, i agree totaly with you. it actualy makes me happy that someone agrees with me on that LOL.
NICHT DA when i got my 4runner, it came with two top mounted led bars & one bumper mounted - i was pretty excited not having to pay for them & always wanted to try them out. couldn't stand em, ha. took em off & haven't missed em one bit.
Same problem here in Sweden. I'm a truck driver, and my new truck has a Vision-X lightbar up top and 4 NBB 225 HID fitted to the bull-bar. And if it rains, or even worse, if it's snowing i usually have to shut them off due to glare...
Thank You! I have been having the warm light v white/blue light argument for years but all my yokel mates are sold on the LED hype. There is a lot of science behind this, but the hype of LED Lumens and Kelvin has totally stolen the market. I drive many hours at night and will never use LED or HID (they are just too bright for highway use). Glad to see someone talking some light sense!!
Awesome review mate. Fyrlyt put a lot of effort into their lights. I switched back to Halogen 5 years ago, still have a 50 inch led bar on the roof but my Lightforce XGT spots well out perform it on a long country road. For tighter windy roads the combo of both goes well. With Hallogen lights, to get the best out of them run them on seperate relays with nice heavy cable. This will mean the draw and voltage drop won't put as much strain on the globes making them last way longer.
Great review Michael I have both halogen and a light bar but agree the led can be more fatigue on the eyes if long drives but shorter twisting roads there great I think combinations are good depending the situation Cheers
Nice review, mate! I use Hella halogen spotlights and they have similar issue with getting shifted up or down. Otherwise, mount and forget. For me another advantage was european approval, which LED bars usually don't have. By the way, 250 W is madness, mine are 55 W each.
I just fitted the 250's and they are epic! You need to install some serious fuses and a solid 100A relay but the results in light output are incredible.
I run a light bar and halogens. Best of both worlds. One trick to stop the light housing from moving around is to get a screw type hose clamp, cut it in 1/2 and rivet one end to the top of the light housing and the other to the underside of the top bull bar tube. It adds a bit of stiffness without being too rigid and the screw gives some up/down adjustment to the lens. It can be an entry point for moisture though, so attach it to a bit of the housing outside the seal or install 2 rivets so it can't twist and plenty of sealant.and
There is a a one thing I think is worth noting about LED CRI. Everything you said is absolutely correct for 1x LED. But what good manufacturers will do is actually combine slightly different color LEDs into a single bar. So if a bar has 40x LEDs, there may actually be say 9x technically different colors (3x3 grid in color space) and the color output of the bar can actually have a much better CRI than any of the individual LEDs. Imagine all of those different graphs overlapping in different ways and adding up to one smoother graph with a wider distribution. Now, that being said, cheap LED manufacturers have probably also never heard of CRI, so it isn’t something that you can bank on. Haha. But it is a trick that allows high end LEDs to be even better.
LED and Halogen both have their pros and cons, which is why I run both, they compliment each other in varying conditions. I have them on separate switches for maximum flexibility. One thing that you didn't mention is that Halogen lights put more strain on the vehicle electrical system than LED lights do, not that it matters a great deal when everything is upgraded I guess.
Maybe try using a silicone or a rubbery type of glue. Just apply a short bead, like an inch. Around the edge of the lens and the housing to glue the lens down so it doesnt spin off from the rough roads. Silicone stays flexible when dry, and is easy to peel off when servicing the lights. Love watching all your videos and to see all of the hard work and dedication you put into your content.
Back in the mid 80's I tested all the top brands of spotlights from Cibie and Hella rallye 2000's and the best longrange/Spread beamed lights are the IPF900 Driving Beam and last year I saw that they still make the oringinal IPF900's so I ordered a set, If you like the Colour of Halogen lights you won't find a better light, At Night you can pick out tree trucks for up to a mile away or 1.6ks, They also have a hole at the top on the back which you can fit a metal support strap which stops any vibration of the light on rough tracks, Also with all big lights you shouls always use a support strap to stop them from moving, Hope that helps, Great Video, Well done.
Great review my friend! I've had my 24v Nemesis 9000s on my Defender for 12 months and love them! The light they put out is just wonderful. I can only describe it as that warm powerful light you get when the sun shines through the dark clouds after an afternoon thunderstorm and just fills the whole countryside with that yellow glow. There are the pro/con arguments of course. Like the higher current draw etc. But really, all these arguments are made at the keyboard. Out in the bush, in my opinion, the sheer quality of light these guys emit, leaves any con and their competition in the shadows ;) Hands down, my favourite distance driving light.
Great review as always, but just to let you know not all LEDs can be grouped together. There are LEDs with higher CRI ratings than the fyrlyts with better CCT as well. Its just the majority of Cheaper LEDS (and some expensive ones) have below par light quality.
Thank you for the long term test. So many other tubers get something bolt it on and ready to do a glowing review. Being from the states, I didn't know what a wombat looked like, until I saw that one almost trip crossing the road at 08:42 !
I took off my LED light bars and fitted the 250W Fyrlyts And I agree with everything you say about the colour and the improvement in spotting wildlife. Much much better than the harsh white glare of LED's and a better focused light as well. I've had no issues with losing lenses or loose lights at all. The billet aluminium mounts are very very strong and if torqued up as recommended by Fyrlyt they don't move (and I'm talking about the Anne Beadell, Tanami Track etc etc. And I do like the spare parts availability - and the prices are good too - have you priced a reflector for a Lightforce 240? Stupidly expensive. As for cons, yes, I agree that the spread could be wider but I'm going to try angling the lights out a little more. I have also found that the current draw on the 250 watt bulbs is pretty heavy and the 24V to 12v conversion means slow speed driving can sap the battery. Would I buy them again? No need - these will last a long time. Highly recommended......
Great video...one suggestion would be to include a Light distribution and Isolux diagram, though I just checked and Fyrlyt doesn't have any...just like so many manufacturers. One reason I like Hella is they have light distribution charts for all their lights. The Con with Hella is they switched to ABS housings which are crap. Fyrlyt looks great but the cost is in the realm of professional drivers, racers, truckers...Expensive...a pair of Nemesis 9000's is what I paid for my first used Porsche in the '60's!😂 Pleasure to watch. Subscribed.
Lilo, we note your mention of an isolux diagram being useful in plainly seeing the beam geometry and light distribution. I will give a simple explanation as to why we do not currently and that is due to the LAB extrapolation of that data and how it can be very problematic in the real world of 'dirty air' outside of controlled enclosed room. (Due to the TYNDALL effect in air particulate, dust, moisture, smoke, haze etc). No lab test accounts for this or worse the wavelength variations and how they react. This is why you can one minute a bright light rendered can be ineffective in rain, fog or haze and another light appear to cut through with no real issues. Worst case is when the light causes discomfort glare. This is immediately compromising safety. You maybe familiar with how in some cases this data is gathered inside a spherical chamber and in some cases as small as 60cm which can give some very inaccurate data that makes for great marketing but falls short in the real world. Hence why we have a real issue in how deceptive the 1 LUX @ X metres has been bastardised by marketeers and media into meaning something it does not. We explain this in detail on our website. The promotional material we had provided by Jamie Benaud include his RAW file data on his own website and he clearly explains the exposure and methodology for full transparency. As to your Porsche in the 60's? DON'T get us started! IF only we had squirreled away so many old bangers!
Great review man! Nicely put together and really good points. Not surprised you don't get much flood out of them since the reflectors are designed for spot. Shifting the bulb forwards will only give you a little change and you demonstrated. Were these the 5000 or the 9000?
I've had the nemesis 9000 on the front of my cruiser for 3yrs now, used a lot, never had an issue with the lenses. I've had various led and hid lights and the fyrlyts are by far the best light I've had, they don't move with corrugations or nudging scrub out the way. Have a x-ray vision light bar on there as well (5x30w modules) and when I have the nemesis fyrlyts on spread beam the light bar may as well be removed. Brilliant light for long distance driving as you say because your eyes just don't get tired as quick, also an easy 1km usable beam. The only issue Ive had is the current draw on mine, being 250w with a 24v step up transformer they draw 40 amps meaning your charging system better be up to the task!
Well done, I like the comprehensive and honest list of pros and cons, some good feed back for the maker as well, lets hope they listen and send you a pair of any updated model for review/compare
Great vid bloke, I have a pair of the 250 watt lights and I agree with your review. They are so easy on the eyes at night, and they have half the reflection off of those green road signs. I also had a lens fall out, and Paul replaced it free. I agree with your comment about them being easy to knock out of position, but as you said they don't shift when driving over corrugations. My mate has the best Lightforce LED's and they are tiring, and the reflection off of signs is blinding. He was impressed with the Frylyt's. I would buy them again.
Great video mate, I'm still running my 5 yr old set of halogen lightforce xgt's. Love the colour compared to the led or hid and I have a 50" curved led bar above my windscreen for slow offroad tracks. Cheap and simple lights!
Excellent review, I am a strong believer of halogen lights. to be fair Lightforce halogens are pretty impressive as well. I will definitely try these lights as well.
The LF halogens were and are still a very relevant light even by our own admission. What we have done is push the technology of halogen and construction further. You are obviously a critical thinker and look at evidence rather than by default trend as being a measure of best.
I wouldn't mind seeing these in action some time! Until then, I'll give a shout out to Baja Designs LEDs. I've had their simple, Squadron Pro driving combo on my street car for quite some time and I really love them. They have a much more natural color temperature than any other LED I've seen and subjectively, a pleasing CRI. One thing to know, that a lot of folks don't seem to realize, is this: There is a strong tendency to try to emulate day light with artificial sources. This is well and good indoors, but in low light situations, our eyes are evolved to perform better with a much higher color temperature. The reason is that in nature, after the sun goes down, we have star and moon light to work with. This has far more blue than anything else. Compare to actual day light, even a pretty powerful off-road setup is still not very bright, so it's worth keeping in mind. That said, I agree that most 6000-6500k LEDs are too blue and find them obnoxious. Baja's advertised 5000k feels more like 4500k to me and I don't have any problem with fatigue at all. Not trying to take anything away from this review, I agree with the points made here.
Yep. I have personally beaten up the Fyrlyt 150w lights across the entire country. I personally cannot wait to upgrade to the MOFO version, from 5000 lumins each to 12,000! Yes I sell them too, but the difference is monumental.
I went from LED to FyrLytes a while back and i am very happy with mine. i have not had an issue with them moving. i use a torque wrench to get them to the correct torque.
Hey bud, great video. I've been running halogen penil beams for around 30 years and the lamp tilting up or down used to drive me nuts at the start. I got a large hose clamp and cut it in half. Attach one end to the top of the lamp and the other to near the radiator grill. Just adjust the clamps screw to set them.
This is very important the lights be torqued to specifications supplied in the instructions. In 99% of issues this has always been the problem. In the less than other 1% it was a fault we rectified and was isolated to a small batch we took full responsibility for.
I have two Lightforce on my bar and two smaller Light bars under the roof basket on the front corners facing out on an angle about 45 degrees to put light into that dark spot where spotlights don't get around to. Works well.
Hi Michael, Thanks for another well done video on an oft-overlooked illumination consideration. Warm light and it's place in the nocturnal world is important. I did notice the apt sound effect accompanying the boulder-on-legs; the wombat. Nice touch. :) On another subject, have you had any experience with say 60Ahr Lithium batteries?. Especially the expensive one that you hopefully can aquire (legally!) at a sensible price?.
that is what fyrlight is known for excellent backup service. after the founders had experienced the run around with other brands on thier own vehicles they decided to make a light that did what they wanted and gave it the backup service. yes they are expensive but you do get what you pay for.
Lightforce XGT hid have had them since they where released and can't fault them, tried a few different types to upgrade but after using i always reinstall my old lightforce XGT, Great review on these you went the extra mile mate
Excellent review, colour temperature is a big issue with LEDs and reflected glare, but I do like the wide beam for peripheral vision. Saved many a roo.....
I love my Fyrlyts had them for over 6 years now. Two level the lights I made a block of would with a step in it, the lower step for when I'm loaded and the upper step for unloaded. That way if I knock the light I can just push it back down to the right height.
G'day mate. It must be a personal thing and not every one has the same tolerance of different lights. I fist drove with halogen spotties in the eighties before LED's was a thing and I used to get fatigued focusing on the dull light and smaller area of light. Led's opened up the vision so much more and could focus on a wider area, it just helps me to be more awake and aware. The reflective signs you can't look at though or you can dip your light till you pass them.
Used to have Hella 2000`s which I upgraded to HID, worked well done a lot of night driving with no hassles. Then bought a lightbar and was quite disappointed in it probably because it was a cheap one. Got Kings Laser lights now and I recon the`re the best lights I`ve ever had. Only problem I have is the reflection from the road signs.
agreed on the common LED light colour, cool white, being way too harsh.. i actively seek out warm white led for camping lights these days.. just wish i could find em easier in LED or HID driving lights (i do love my 50w HID converted IPFs tho) .. great review 👍
Each to their own, I bought some really cheap lights for my rally car and then installed some cheap HID kits from ebay but found them so good I fitted them to my BT for long road trips , I always fit a bracket onto each light to stop the vibration and in your situation it might help the lights last longer and stop the movement, Regards Trevor
I have the 5000’s on my old Rodeo. They are great. I will be putting the 9000’s on my new Hilux. They are easy on the eyes at night. I find LED’s harsh and glary and get blinded by road signs. The customer service at this company is excellent. Highly recommended.
Good to finally see someone mention CRI. Next we need to talk about the human eyes bias for yellowish light. After all it evolved to see under one big yellow light. If your lights are so white/blue that they are making everything turn grey then that defeats the purpose. Watch this space. In 5 - 10 years time, mass produced warm LED driving lights will be smashing the market.
Spot on mate! :) This dude has done some good practical research to show us that trendy cold light LEDs are not always the best solution for lighting. And we'll see that soon, those bright blue/white LEDs on roadside lights will change to match the soft, easy on the eyes, glow that sodium lamps used to give us. Harsh changes from bright to dark confounds human eyes. But ... sigh... getting the latest fashionable "brightest" light bars on your truck will be more profitable for the manufacturer...
Your review is unbiased which is great, unlike Fyrlyt marketing. I have seen them in person and the quality and design just is not there or acceptable. Just in principle i would never buy a product of theirs with how they carry on. 40A current draw on their higher models are not acceptable either and will stress older vehicles out. Have a look at Ultra Vision here in AUS for example. 100% made here and doing groundbreaking ideas in terms of lighting. Their highest output housing will do 1lux @ 1800M. That is verified isolux data. I struggle to find ANY isolux data on the Fyrlyts. As for the colour and CRI. I agree there, however warmer LED options are available from Ultra Vision in 4000K for example. Much warmer light with a much higher CRI rating. There is also a massive difference between generic China 6000K LED arrays and 5000K-5700K LED arrays as well. Essentially need to test more before making a decision because i can guarantee there is much better options out there and much better quality.
@shane you're right, halogen is very different in every way. The 4000K LEDs are similar believe it or not though. I have always preferred LED for driving lights but I hate LED bulbs with a passion for normal driving. I get much better results from uprated halogen bulbs
@@LoudzLighting Higher CRI rating? You appear to have another brand agenda here and your claims are Incorrect and frankly don't think your brand would appreciate you misrepresenting them. Your LEDs are not 100 CRI nor have comparable spectral power distribution. Your fear of amperage draw flies in the face of our customers experience so suggest you seek advice from better sources. Feel free to call us and we will answer any questions.
@@LoudzLighting So there is a statute of limitations on a brand responding to misinformation? How precious! We must have missed that memo and didn't realise you are the web gatekeeper. Hope you don't work for the brand you misrepresent as your claims re 4000K are embarrassingly incorrect. Perhaps ask your brand, boss or manager for the 'SPD', spectral power distribution on the relevant chip and ask a qualified engineer on how to read that data relevant to the task. Have a look at the general commentary compared to your efforts? We are here to help people and our customers which is well reflected in our direct feedback from people who actually own the product and for the last several years have switched from LED including the brand you chose to interject here in a 'weird' way. If you have any genuine questions or robust debate to the contrary then we invite you to call us directly. We will not be responding further here to play wack a troll. Why? We don't have enough slow days!
@fyrlytdrivinglights6772 take the high road as much as you like. You chose to comment on a 4 year old post. I'd reply on your page with facts but you didn't like that and blocked me many years ago. Seems only those who agree with your marketing are welcome at your CAMPFYR. You've come here to defend your brand just as I'm promoting the brand I'm passionate about. Take a hike
Great revue - I've done more drives to Exmouth from Perth (and back again) than I can care to count, all the while using halogens, HID's and LED's. And, I've found halogens to be the least fatiguing to drive with. I'd take long distance comfort with halogens over HID's and LED's any day... I'm well over the splitting headaches caused by intense white lights and backscatter from road signs. And well, when a manufacturer boasts an effective luminous range of 900m - 1000m, so what? How bloody fast are you going anyway that you need a whole kilometre to slow down to avoid hitting a roo! If I can get 500m to 750m luminous range, I think that's acceptable. Good job with the review, I think you've just about convinced me to go aead and buy a set!
Awesome. I found my cheap LEDs were so white they did fatigue me so I bought some cheap amber tint on eBay. Being ultra cheap eBay tint it ended up being yellow but I still stuck it on. It helped a lot and cost me $2.50. Simple fix I thought
First things first... if you like the 5000s get in touch with fyrlyt and ask them to sponsor you a set of nemesis 9000s or just buy a pair, at about $900-950 they aren't that expensive. And do another review comparing them to the 5000s and just try wipe the smile off your face 😁💪😅 I've run the 9000s for 5 years that crossed Australia 5 times and been to every state but tas and yes the old lenses had major cracking issues, I went through several sets... noting that fyrlyts warranty is top notch and the guys are great to deal with 👌 but the new ones seem to be a big improvement and fixed the problem. I've had a couple of the bolts fall out, now I use lock tight and now perfect 👌 never had a issue with losing alignment, in fact I've found them tighter than most so maybe yours were damaged by the previous owner? Good point about the terminals, I agree they could be improved but not really had any issues just better ways of doing it... The spread is noticeably wider in the 9000s but even on spot they are so good you still get great side vision, my recommendation is to run spread on the kerb side and spot on the road side 👌 Great review as always by a smart bloke with excellent taste based on facts, performance and practicality. over spending more just for wank looks and following the brain dead sheep that swallow the advertising like chocolate coated, raspberry flavored dogshit! 🤦♂️😅 Keep up the good content mate 🤠👍
I had the nemesis 9000's on our dmax they were the best lights I've ever had, but had the same issues with the cracking lenses, but they replaced them free and that was the last of the issues 👌
Great review, I have the nemesis 9000's but I apart from getting into glass lenses I haven't had the same issues that you had. But once again love the review
I use the KC 4x6 Gravity LEDs on my Colorado. Perfect color. I also run some KC Dayliters driving beams with a 75watt HID kit. Those have good color and blow the LEDS away.
On the close-up after you installed the first pair of new lenses, I could see that the left one looked like the it wasn't fully seated. As you look at it face-on, the left side was sticking out just a bit.
I get it, they run nice... easy on the eyes. But the build quality is obviously a problem, and maybe on purpose. Notice, they sell all these parts because they KNOW they are going to fall apart. I bought a set of Rigid Dually Pro Driving pods and MAN, That output and build quality is unmatched anywhere. Check em' out. Nowhere near as huge on the front of the rig too! When I drive our beater 4runner it still has Halogen lights..and I can see the CRI effect vs my HID on my Jeep. It's interesting, but at the end of the day I want BRIGHT lights out in the sticks, regardless of color.
Yep i have 1 little light bar for the spread at night in the bush driving and i have 2 light force Striker Halogen lights for at night for the long distance and they are awesome and my setup been awesome for me but each to there own ' Seek Adventure ... but yep thumbs up for this Review cheers
Thanks for this mate!! The only reason i'm holding off getting these is because they're worth more than my car LoL. If someone steals my Adventure Kings ones, meh, i'll buy the next "game changer" lights they're selling. If someone would flog the Fyrlyts, well then i'd cry...
No mention of the efficiency - lumens per watt, etc. LEDs give a lot more light than halogens at the same power consumption. Halogens waste more than 50% on heat, so for some that will be a consideration. And while this was a review of a specific brand, of course there are many different lamps and everything from fog to flood to spot beams available. Thanks for the review
Silicone grease on the o-rings is definitely a good idea, but perhaps the manufacturer should have included a grub screw to secure the lens once it's in position to stop it rotating and falling out
@@rodneyjones4890 Well as an experienced industrial electrician with many years working in explosive areas and dealing with o-rings, I know it IS a good idea.
I went with the Kings $100 budget set of 9” lights, super bright. Problem is so much of the light hits close to you because of the wide spread so when I have to dip them for oncoming cars it feels like I can’t see far at all. and if there is a street sign anywhere you won’t see much except that sign because it reflects so badly. I’m going back to halogen and maybe a light bar on the roof for when I want a solid floodlight
Old trick from Rallying. We cut a worm drive clamp in half. Flattened it out and drilled a small hole at each end with the drive block in the middle. We riveted or screwed one end to the lamp housing and the other to a part of the body or nudge bar. To adjust you just turn the wormdrive in or out as required.
Thanks again for a great no nonsense review Michael. Always appreciate your honesty. Ive got a pair of rigid's on my ride. Excellent quality but so true the white light makes night driving strenuous on your eyes. I eventually switch them off to rest my eyes and leave on ther dually pods. Ive noticed they worst when it rains making everything look washed out. I am contemplating changing to hid but definitly not the fyrlights after your experiences. Maybe arb or someones else's. Just a thought dont u get led lights with say 3000k chips
Running across frame has to be the best way I've seen someone test a set of lights.
Quasi yes that was cool
Thats dedication to run a review over such a long period of time!! I also like that you didn't try to pull any favours by mentioning your TH-cam channel and had the same kind of experience that any of us would have!
Why do I get so excited when I see an upload from SEEK ADVENTURE 😍 keep up the vids mate! Life’s an adventure
I've had the Nemesis 9000's for almost 8 years now, and I also have a Baja Designs 42 inch LED bar up under the roof rack. For long distance / open road / high speed travelling, I don't even bother turning on the LED bar - it doesn't come close to competing with the Fyrlyt's (and the Baja Designs bar is one of the best on the market). Off road - I use the LED bar. The Fyrlyts are not much use in that type of work as that is not what they are designed for.
You are 100% right in your comments about the "warmer" colour in general and the CRI in particular. I travel regularly between Perth and Kalgoorlie, with the occasional trip across the Nullarbor. On these trips - the Fyrlyt is a far better light than anything LED (also better than HID) - especially if you have the Fyrlyt 9000's.
Fyrlyt's after sales service is second to none - ring Paul if you have any issues at all. I experienced cracking with my original set of lenses. One phone call and a replacement set was in the mail at no cost to me. These have been on the vehicle for about 7 years now and the cracking of the lenses has not occurred again. As for the up/down movement of the lights - mine did a little bit until I read the instructions - there is a specific torque setting that the mounting bolt is meant to be tightened to. My lights have never moved since tightening to the recommended torque.
Great to read such an honest and unbiased "warts and all" review of these lights, especially given the period of time you allowed to see how they really perform in a variety of conditions.
I don't usually say this. But this is a great comment. Nice and informative!
yeah i run the nemesis 9000, some places they are to good ...... major highways that have big refective signs, but once you get out into remote highways they are brilliant
Hands down one of the best TH-camrs 👍🏻
Strange looking Emu run 9:01, lmao Keep up good videos.
I've got a pair of the LUXSIS 5000 and very happy with them, and agree 100%. Lets not forget, they're Australian made unlike 98% of all other driving lights on the market.
Can personally vouch for this company and these lights. Sold heaps of pairs, some Nemesis too - usually it's overkill. But Paul indeed was the Owner of the company and he's such a legend to talk to, absolutely fully of information and sooo helpful when it comes to warranty claims. They finally got their glass lens supplier too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Totally agree with you on the light rendering mate, I’ve got a set of Hella Rally 4000’s which have been on 2 cars and about to go onto my new car, had them for 12 years and in that time the only problem I’ve had is one globe replacement... that’s it! I’ve always had the temptation to go led but like you I find they’re not as hard on the eyes.👍
Great review. I’ve been running a 50" Rigid LED bar and cubes for 4 years but my best setup was IPF spotties and LED cubes similar to yours. I ran that setup while living 2 years in the rainforest jungle in Costa Rica. The warm light on the tight jungle tracks was unbeatable. Now you have me thinking again to add some spotties again.
Great vid Excellent review. I agree with you. I am an old bugger and I reckon my old Cibie Super Oscars were so much easier on your eyes than the LEDs I have now. I also think large road signs are a sight hazard with leds. Thanks
You get my vote!!
its a pity there are not more halogen lights out there of quality, I grew up driving behind Cibie and later Lightforce! Good gear!
Most of the current crop of LEDs are very bright but a complete detriment to seeing long range and long term at night
Back when I did a bit of rallying with Cibies we stopped them vibrating and going out of adjustment by cutting a big hose clamp in half and straightening it. Then fix one end to the top of the light and the other end to the grille area. With today's plastic grilles you may have to make a bracket but that's to be expected.
I'm still using my Super Oscars...purchased in 1983/4 Only thing is one cannot get the same globes anymore and i think because of that, they don't work as well. The originals were a really long almost double globe. One part had a small plate and the other a filament. Now you can only get the filament globe insert. I've always wondered just how good LEDs were in comparison to the Super Oscars.
@@groundgrabbatm6379 Tried LED's Went back to my Super Oscars.Far less glare easy on the eyes. I see skippys and wombats so much better. I would like to try the fyrlyt's but can't justify the expense on the chance they are as good or better. Currently I run 3 Super Oscars, two driving wth a pencil in the middle. :-)
This man is full of smiles kinda radiating positivity. Good review too!
I've been running FyrLyt for a few years now. Found the same with them moving with a physical knock but as you said, better than a broken housing. I rate them highly. I have a LED bar on the roof and run them together at times.
Just put a couple of sets on my Silverado and I’m absolutely blown away. They’re ridiculous.
And I must say, the form factor. Brilliant lights, easy to replace parts as they designed these for. Paul and the team have done a brilliant job.
G'day Michael. A nice balanced review mate, as always. I've had the Nemesis 9000s since May and taken them from Canberra to Cape Tribulation and back via outback QLD and NSW, as well as a couple of Hume Highway runs back from Sydney. These lights haven't missed a beat and the reduction in eye fatigue can't be overstated. It's like driving through a tunnel of light, although a bit more spread at close range on very windy roads would be appreciated (your setup looks like a good solution). I had mine installed by a local auto-electrician and the installation was first class, with zero movement in the mounting brackets. Highly recommended.
I really appreciate the long review period. So many reviews are with minimal use and no real longevity test. Thanks!
Another awesome video Michael.
It was a toss up when it came time to replace my driving lights. It came down to FyreLyte or LightForce. I went with HID LightForce and I’m pretty happy with them. But as you so eloquently pointed out the colour of the FyreLyte is so much easier on the eyes. I did a trip to Thargomindah with a mate who has these on his Patrol and I was really impressed. I have had the same problem with the mounts on my LightForce. They hate corrugations, however with these aimed in the right direction and the light bar on the roof they give great distance and spread.
Well done on another informative video. Keep em coming. 👍
I’ve had a set for about 6 months.The lenses are just now starting to crack.Your experience pretty much mirrors mine, except for the loose connections.Good to hear about the customer service, I’ll be going back to the auto electrician this week and hitting them up for new lenses. Thank you for the review, the timing couldn’t be better.
I have had a set of IPF EXTREMES since 07 90w halogen globs never blown a globe and I'm with you no eye strain with halogen on long drives
Me too, I still have my old 900xs fitted, since 2012 or thereabouts, on 2 vehicles, also never done a globe!
@@luket6334 worth the moon money i paid for them , 1 trip around AU and now on the 3rd 4x4
@shane I'm in my 50s and i just get blinded when I am in a car with led or hid sure they are bright but for long drives at night the warmth that comes from halogen is much better to drive with, also I'm a hunter and i noticed that halogen spotlight does not cast a shadow over an animal at night unlike LED and animals like foxes bolt with led roos do the same.
mine are 900s the ones that are submersible the lenses don't crack on water crossings at night with the heat.
good point you made with 2nd hand as the yuppies are selling top name brand halogen spotlights for next to nix on ebay and gum tree
I've had fyrlyt's on my f truck for 9 years now and never had an issue with them, still got the original plastic covers on them as well, getting a bit hazy, but still working well.
I have the 24 volt converter running 150 watt bulbs, never had to change one yet after 9 years. When you talk about value, i absolutely swear by these lights, just keep on keeping on.
The colour is awesome, totally agree with you on that one, my eyes are 61 years young now and I wear prescription glasses, LED's are no good for people with glasses as the reflected blinding white light bounces off the back of my lenses, not good.
FYRLYT's, love them and will never put anything else on the front of effy.
Halogen is the ultimate for colour rendering and very comfortable to drive behind. SO much better in the high country or coastal areas where there is moisture in the air also. Blue light scatters like crazy. I still have an old set of Cibie Super Oscars that i love but wouldnt mind trying a set of these. The designer knows his stuff way better than most.
Thanks for the updates!
Great work again on the review!
We miss your videos!!!!
i remember back in the days when we all had halogen and then the led came and it just was a nightmare in the night and when it rains even so so much worse. so, i agree totaly with you. it actualy makes me happy that someone agrees with me on that LOL.
NICHT DA when i got my 4runner, it came with two top mounted led bars & one bumper mounted - i was pretty excited not having to pay for them & always wanted to try them out. couldn't stand em, ha. took em off & haven't missed em one bit.
Same problem here in Sweden. I'm a truck driver, and my new truck has a Vision-X lightbar up top and 4 NBB 225 HID fitted to the bull-bar. And if it rains, or even worse, if it's snowing i usually have to shut them off due to glare...
Thank You! I have been having the warm light v white/blue light argument for years but all my yokel mates are sold on the LED hype. There is a lot of science behind this, but the hype of LED Lumens and Kelvin has totally stolen the market. I drive many hours at night and will never use LED or HID (they are just too bright for highway use). Glad to see someone talking some light sense!!
Awesome review mate. Fyrlyt put a lot of effort into their lights.
I switched back to Halogen 5 years ago, still have a 50 inch led bar on the roof but my Lightforce XGT spots well out perform it on a long country road.
For tighter windy roads the combo of both goes well.
With Hallogen lights, to get the best out of them run them on seperate relays with nice heavy cable. This will mean the draw and voltage drop won't put as much strain on the globes making them last way longer.
Great review Michael I have both halogen and a light bar but agree the led can be more fatigue on the eyes if long drives but shorter twisting roads there great
I think combinations are good depending the situation
Cheers
Nice review, mate! I use Hella halogen spotlights and they have similar issue with getting shifted up or down. Otherwise, mount and forget. For me another advantage was european approval, which LED bars usually don't have. By the way, 250 W is madness, mine are 55 W each.
I just fitted the 250's and they are epic! You need to install some serious fuses and a solid 100A relay but the results in light output are incredible.
Been hanging out for this video.
I’m 50, & always had Cibbi or Hella for years as we all did.
Mate love how honest you are with your reviews and you tell us everything that’s happened with it👍👍👍
I run a light bar and halogens. Best of both worlds.
One trick to stop the light housing from moving around is to get a screw type hose clamp, cut it in 1/2 and rivet one end to the top of the light housing and the other to the underside of the top bull bar tube. It adds a bit of stiffness without being too rigid and the screw gives some up/down adjustment to the lens.
It can be an entry point for moisture though, so attach it to a bit of the housing outside the seal or install 2 rivets so it can't twist and plenty of sealant.and
There is a a one thing I think is worth noting about LED CRI. Everything you said is absolutely correct for 1x LED.
But what good manufacturers will do is actually combine slightly different color LEDs into a single bar.
So if a bar has 40x LEDs, there may actually be say 9x technically different colors (3x3 grid in color space) and the color output of the bar can actually have a much better CRI than any of the individual LEDs.
Imagine all of those different graphs overlapping in different ways and adding up to one smoother graph with a wider distribution.
Now, that being said, cheap LED manufacturers have probably also never heard of CRI, so it isn’t something that you can bank on. Haha. But it is a trick that allows high end LEDs to be even better.
LED and Halogen both have their pros and cons, which is why I run both, they compliment each other in varying conditions. I have them on separate switches for maximum flexibility. One thing that you didn't mention is that Halogen lights put more strain on the vehicle electrical system than LED lights do, not that it matters a great deal when everything is upgraded I guess.
Maybe try using a silicone or a rubbery type of glue. Just apply a short bead, like an inch. Around the edge of the lens and the housing to glue the lens down so it doesnt spin off from the rough roads. Silicone stays flexible when dry, and is easy to peel off when servicing the lights. Love watching all your videos and to see all of the hard work and dedication you put into your content.
Back in the mid 80's I tested all the top brands of spotlights from Cibie and Hella rallye 2000's and the best longrange/Spread beamed lights are the IPF900 Driving Beam and last year I saw that they still make the oringinal IPF900's so I ordered a set, If you like the Colour of Halogen lights you won't find a better light, At Night you can pick out tree trucks for up to a mile away or 1.6ks, They also have a hole at the top on the back which you can fit a metal support strap which stops any vibration of the light on rough tracks, Also with all big lights you shouls always use a support strap to stop them from moving, Hope that helps, Great Video, Well done.
You have named some legends there that STILL hold their own despite what many believe. Like a Rolex or good hifi system!
I love these tech video's on new and different kinds of products rather than your standard run-of-the-mill. Keep up the excellent work. Thanks again.
Great review my friend! I've had my 24v Nemesis 9000s on my Defender for 12 months and love them! The light they put out is just wonderful. I can only describe it as that warm powerful light you get when the sun shines through the dark clouds after an afternoon thunderstorm and just fills the whole countryside with that yellow glow. There are the pro/con arguments of course. Like the higher current draw etc. But really, all these arguments are made at the keyboard. Out in the bush, in my opinion, the sheer quality of light these guys emit, leaves any con and their competition in the shadows ;) Hands down, my favourite distance driving light.
Great review as always, but just to let you know not all LEDs can be grouped together. There are LEDs with higher CRI ratings than the fyrlyts with better CCT as well. Its just the majority of Cheaper LEDS (and some expensive ones) have below par light quality.
I have had Nemisis 9000's since May 2016 and just changed my first bulb. I changed both, just because. The bulbs were only $34. I'd recommend them
Go the Nemesis. Best lights I've ever had. No eye strain .No mounting or build issues
Thank you for the long term test. So many other tubers get something bolt it on and ready to do a glowing review. Being from the states, I didn't know what a wombat looked like, until I saw that one almost trip crossing the road at 08:42 !
I took off my LED light bars and fitted the 250W Fyrlyts And I agree with everything you say about the colour and the improvement in spotting wildlife. Much much better than the harsh white glare of LED's and a better focused light as well.
I've had no issues with losing lenses or loose lights at all. The billet aluminium mounts are very very strong and if torqued up as recommended by Fyrlyt they don't move (and I'm talking about the Anne Beadell, Tanami Track etc etc.
And I do like the spare parts availability - and the prices are good too - have you priced a reflector for a Lightforce 240? Stupidly expensive.
As for cons, yes, I agree that the spread could be wider but I'm going to try angling the lights out a little more. I have also found that the current draw on the 250 watt bulbs is pretty heavy and the 24V to 12v conversion means slow speed driving can sap the battery.
Would I buy them again? No need - these will last a long time. Highly recommended......
You do the best reviews ever man. Fair and concise every time. Thanks
Great video...one suggestion would be to include a Light distribution and Isolux diagram, though I just checked and Fyrlyt doesn't have any...just like so many manufacturers. One reason I like Hella is they have light distribution charts for all their lights. The Con with Hella is they switched to ABS housings which are crap. Fyrlyt looks great but the cost is in the realm of professional drivers, racers, truckers...Expensive...a pair of Nemesis 9000's is what I paid for my first used Porsche in the '60's!😂 Pleasure to watch. Subscribed.
Lilo, we note your mention of an isolux diagram being useful in plainly seeing the beam geometry and light distribution. I will give a simple explanation as to why we do not currently and that is due to the LAB extrapolation of that data and how it can be very problematic in the real world of 'dirty air' outside of controlled enclosed room. (Due to the TYNDALL effect in air particulate, dust, moisture, smoke, haze etc). No lab test accounts for this or worse the wavelength variations and how they react. This is why you can one minute a bright light rendered can be ineffective in rain, fog or haze and another light appear to cut through with no real issues. Worst case is when the light causes discomfort glare. This is immediately compromising safety.
You maybe familiar with how in some cases this data is gathered inside a spherical chamber and in some cases as small as 60cm which can give some very inaccurate data that makes for great marketing but falls short in the real world. Hence why we have a real issue in how deceptive the 1 LUX @ X metres has been bastardised by marketeers and media into meaning something it does not. We explain this in detail on our website.
The promotional material we had provided by Jamie Benaud include his RAW file data on his own website and he clearly explains the exposure and methodology for full transparency.
As to your Porsche in the 60's? DON'T get us started! IF only we had squirreled away so many old bangers!
Great review man! Nicely put together and really good points. Not surprised you don't get much flood out of them since the reflectors are designed for spot. Shifting the bulb forwards will only give you a little change and you demonstrated. Were these the 5000 or the 9000?
I've had the nemesis 9000 on the front of my cruiser for 3yrs now, used a lot, never had an issue with the lenses. I've had various led and hid lights and the fyrlyts are by far the best light I've had, they don't move with corrugations or nudging scrub out the way. Have a x-ray vision light bar on there as well (5x30w modules) and when I have the nemesis fyrlyts on spread beam the light bar may as well be removed. Brilliant light for long distance driving as you say because your eyes just don't get tired as quick, also an easy 1km usable beam. The only issue Ive had is the current draw on mine, being 250w with a 24v step up transformer they draw 40 amps meaning your charging system better be up to the task!
My experience exactly!!!
Well done, I like the comprehensive and honest list of pros and cons, some good feed back for the maker as well, lets hope they listen and send you a pair of any updated model for review/compare
Your Reviews are soo unbiased and honest!
well done mate keep them up, more reviews pls
Your run from side to side made my day :DD great video!
Great review, mate 👍🏼 Love these lights, and the warmth of the halogens, as you mentioned 👌🏼
Great vid bloke, I have a pair of the 250 watt lights and I agree with your review. They are so easy on the eyes at night, and they have half the reflection off of those green road signs. I also had a lens fall out, and Paul replaced it free. I agree with your comment about them being easy to knock out of position, but as you said they don't shift when driving over corrugations. My mate has the best Lightforce LED's and they are tiring, and the reflection off of signs is blinding. He was impressed with the Frylyt's. I would buy them again.
Great video mate, I'm still running my 5 yr old set of halogen lightforce xgt's. Love the colour compared to the led or hid and I have a 50" curved led bar above my windscreen for slow offroad tracks. Cheap and simple lights!
Excellent review, I am a strong believer of halogen lights. to be fair Lightforce halogens are pretty impressive as well. I will definitely try these lights as well.
The LF halogens were and are still a very relevant light even by our own admission. What we have done is push the technology of halogen and construction further. You are obviously a critical thinker and look at evidence rather than by default trend as being a measure of best.
I wouldn't mind seeing these in action some time! Until then, I'll give a shout out to Baja Designs LEDs. I've had their simple, Squadron Pro driving combo on my street car for quite some time and I really love them. They have a much more natural color temperature than any other LED I've seen and subjectively, a pleasing CRI. One thing to know, that a lot of folks don't seem to realize, is this: There is a strong tendency to try to emulate day light with artificial sources. This is well and good indoors, but in low light situations, our eyes are evolved to perform better with a much higher color temperature. The reason is that in nature, after the sun goes down, we have star and moon light to work with. This has far more blue than anything else. Compare to actual day light, even a pretty powerful off-road setup is still not very bright, so it's worth keeping in mind. That said, I agree that most 6000-6500k LEDs are too blue and find them obnoxious. Baja's advertised 5000k feels more like 4500k to me and I don't have any problem with fatigue at all. Not trying to take anything away from this review, I agree with the points made here.
I think you should contact the maker an have them see your review.. so they can redesign and make there product better , it was a great review !!!
Yep. I have personally beaten up the Fyrlyt 150w lights across the entire country. I personally cannot wait to upgrade to the MOFO version, from 5000 lumins each to 12,000! Yes I sell them too, but the difference is monumental.
I went from LED to FyrLytes a while back and i am very happy with mine. i have not had an issue with them moving. i use a torque wrench to get them to the correct torque.
Another, balanced, intelligent, and informative review. Thanks and well done
Hey bud, great video. I've been running halogen penil beams for around 30 years and the lamp tilting up or down used to drive me nuts at the start. I got a large hose clamp and cut it in half. Attach one end to the top of the lamp and the other to near the radiator grill. Just adjust the clamps screw to set them.
You need a tension wrench to tighten the Mount I did mine to the manufacturers spec and they don’t move.
This is very important the lights be torqued to specifications supplied in the instructions. In 99% of issues this has always been the problem. In the less than other 1% it was a fault we rectified and was isolated to a small batch we took full responsibility for.
The ownership and accountability of your company is un beatable. This alone wins my business. Add that to a exelent product it's a no brainer.
I have two Lightforce on my bar and two smaller Light bars under the roof basket on the front corners facing out on an angle about 45 degrees to put light into that dark spot where spotlights don't get around to. Works well.
2023 - upgraded to the MOFOs, the new Fyrlyts are monumental! Get some dude.
Got the same.ones and dont have the issues you mentioned. Reckon they need a service or something.
Great work as always
Awesome review. I just picked up a set of 9000 Nemesis off gumtree too, looking forward to fitting and testing.
Keep up the good work! Love your honest reviews
Loved my antique 7" Lucas Flamethrowers with 100W bulbs.
To solve the problem with the lights dropping use a torque wrench and tighten them at about 50lb/in
Hi Michael, Thanks for another well done video on an oft-overlooked illumination consideration.
Warm light and it's place in the nocturnal world is important.
I did notice the apt sound effect accompanying the boulder-on-legs; the wombat. Nice touch. :)
On another subject, have you had any experience with say 60Ahr Lithium batteries?. Especially the expensive one that you hopefully can aquire (legally!) at a sensible price?.
When it comes to spotlamp spread, crossing the beams helps.
also had low colour temperature hid for a while. nearly as good as halogen in terms of eyestrain.
that is what fyrlight is known for excellent backup service. after the founders had experienced the run around with other brands on thier own vehicles they decided to make a light that did what they wanted and gave it the backup service. yes they are expensive but you do get what you pay for.
Lightforce XGT hid have had them since they where released and can't fault them, tried a few different types to upgrade but after using i always reinstall my old lightforce XGT, Great review on these you went the extra mile mate
Excellent review, colour temperature is a big issue with LEDs and reflected glare, but I do like the wide beam for peripheral vision. Saved many a roo.....
I love my Fyrlyts had them for over 6 years now. Two level the lights I made a block of would with a step in it, the lower step for when I'm loaded and the upper step for unloaded. That way if I knock the light I can just push it back down to the right height.
That is a ridiculously simple way of setting them, great idea Jacob! It's cool to know there are long time users who like the lights 👌
G'day mate. It must be a personal thing and not every one has the same tolerance of different lights. I fist drove with halogen spotties in the eighties before LED's was a thing and I used to get fatigued focusing on the dull light and smaller area of light. Led's opened up the vision so much more and could focus on a wider area, it just helps me to be more awake and aware. The reflective signs you can't look at though or you can dip your light till you pass them.
Used to have Hella 2000`s which I upgraded to HID, worked well done a lot of night driving with no hassles. Then bought a lightbar and was quite disappointed in it probably because it was a cheap one. Got Kings Laser lights now and I recon the`re the best lights I`ve ever had. Only problem I have is the reflection from the road signs.
Look into Optimal luminous efficiency. It is was the light intensity perception changes with the colour temp.
agreed on the common LED light colour, cool white, being way too harsh.. i actively seek out warm white led for camping lights these days.. just wish i could find em easier in LED or HID driving lights (i do love my 50w HID converted IPFs tho) .. great review 👍
Each to their own, I bought some really cheap lights for my rally car and then installed some cheap HID kits from ebay but found them so good I fitted them to my BT for long road trips , I always fit a bracket onto each light to stop the vibration and in your situation it might help the lights last longer and stop the movement, Regards Trevor
I have the 5000’s on my old Rodeo.
They are great.
I will be putting the 9000’s on my new Hilux.
They are easy on the eyes at night.
I find LED’s harsh and glary and get blinded by road signs.
The customer service at this company is excellent.
Highly recommended.
I like mine too. Have had the same problem with the lense falling out but the shop I bought them from charged me for the new lense
Good to finally see someone mention CRI. Next we need to talk about the human eyes bias for yellowish light. After all it evolved to see under one big yellow light. If your lights are so white/blue that they are making everything turn grey then that defeats the purpose. Watch this space. In 5 - 10 years time, mass produced warm LED driving lights will be smashing the market.
Spot on mate! :)
This dude has done some good practical research to show us that trendy cold light LEDs are not always the best solution for lighting.
And we'll see that soon, those bright blue/white LEDs on roadside lights will change to match the soft, easy on the eyes, glow that sodium lamps used to give us. Harsh changes from bright to dark confounds human eyes.
But ... sigh... getting the latest fashionable "brightest" light bars on your truck will be more profitable for the manufacturer...
Hey mate your 100% correct in your review. Halogens are definitely easier on your eyes.
Your review is unbiased which is great, unlike Fyrlyt marketing. I have seen them in person and the quality and design just is not there or acceptable. Just in principle i would never buy a product of theirs with how they carry on. 40A current draw on their higher models are not acceptable either and will stress older vehicles out. Have a look at Ultra Vision here in AUS for example. 100% made here and doing groundbreaking ideas in terms of lighting. Their highest output housing will do 1lux @ 1800M. That is verified isolux data. I struggle to find ANY isolux data on the Fyrlyts. As for the colour and CRI. I agree there, however warmer LED options are available from Ultra Vision in 4000K for example. Much warmer light with a much higher CRI rating. There is also a massive difference between generic China 6000K LED arrays and 5000K-5700K LED arrays as well. Essentially need to test more before making a decision because i can guarantee there is much better options out there and much better quality.
@shane you're right, halogen is very different in every way. The 4000K LEDs are similar believe it or not though. I have always preferred LED for driving lights but I hate LED bulbs with a passion for normal driving. I get much better results from uprated halogen bulbs
@@LoudzLighting Higher CRI rating? You appear to have another brand agenda here and your claims are Incorrect and frankly don't think your brand would appreciate you misrepresenting them. Your LEDs are not 100 CRI nor have comparable spectral power distribution. Your fear of amperage draw flies in the face of our customers experience so suggest you seek advice from better sources. Feel free to call us and we will answer any questions.
@@fyrlytdrivinglights6772 4 years too late. Slow day at the office?
@@LoudzLighting So there is a statute of limitations on a brand responding to misinformation? How precious! We must have missed that memo and didn't realise you are the web gatekeeper. Hope you don't work for the brand you misrepresent as your claims re 4000K are embarrassingly incorrect. Perhaps ask your brand, boss or manager for the 'SPD', spectral power distribution on the relevant chip and ask a qualified engineer on how to read that data relevant to the task. Have a look at the general commentary compared to your efforts? We are here to help people and our customers which is well reflected in our direct feedback from people who actually own the product and for the last several years have switched from LED including the brand you chose to interject here in a 'weird' way. If you have any genuine questions or robust debate to the contrary then we invite you to call us directly. We will not be responding further here to play wack a troll. Why? We don't have enough slow days!
@fyrlytdrivinglights6772 take the high road as much as you like. You chose to comment on a 4 year old post. I'd reply on your page with facts but you didn't like that and blocked me many years ago. Seems only those who agree with your marketing are welcome at your CAMPFYR. You've come here to defend your brand just as I'm promoting the brand I'm passionate about. Take a hike
Great revue - I've done more drives to Exmouth from Perth (and back again) than I can care to count, all the while using halogens, HID's and LED's. And, I've found halogens to be the least fatiguing to drive with. I'd take long distance comfort with halogens over HID's and LED's any day... I'm well over the splitting headaches caused by intense white lights and backscatter from road signs. And well, when a manufacturer boasts an effective luminous range of 900m - 1000m, so what? How bloody fast are you going anyway that you need a whole kilometre to slow down to avoid hitting a roo! If I can get 500m to 750m luminous range, I think that's acceptable. Good job with the review, I think you've just about convinced me to go aead and buy a set!
Awesome. I found my cheap LEDs were so white they did fatigue me so I bought some cheap amber tint on eBay. Being ultra cheap eBay tint it ended up being yellow but I still stuck it on. It helped a lot and cost me $2.50. Simple fix I thought
First things first... if you like the 5000s get in touch with fyrlyt and ask them to sponsor you a set of nemesis 9000s or just buy a pair, at about $900-950 they aren't that expensive. And do another review comparing them to the 5000s and just try wipe the smile off your face 😁💪😅
I've run the 9000s for 5 years that crossed Australia 5 times and been to every state but tas and yes the old lenses had major cracking issues, I went through several sets... noting that fyrlyts warranty is top notch and the guys are great to deal with 👌
but the new ones seem to be a big improvement and fixed the problem. I've had a couple of the bolts fall out, now I use lock tight and now perfect 👌 never had a issue with losing alignment, in fact I've found them tighter than most so maybe yours were damaged by the previous owner?
Good point about the terminals, I agree they could be improved but not really had any issues just better ways of doing it...
The spread is noticeably wider in the 9000s but even on spot they are so good you still get great side vision, my recommendation is to run spread on the kerb side and spot on the road side 👌
Great review as always by a smart bloke with excellent taste based on facts, performance and practicality. over spending more just for wank looks and following the brain dead sheep that swallow the advertising like chocolate coated, raspberry flavored dogshit! 🤦♂️😅
Keep up the good content mate 🤠👍
I had the nemesis 9000's on our dmax they were the best lights I've ever had, but had the same issues with the cracking lenses, but they replaced them free and that was the last of the issues 👌
Great review, I have the nemesis 9000's but I apart from getting into glass lenses I haven't had the same issues that you had.
But once again love the review
I use the KC 4x6 Gravity LEDs on my Colorado. Perfect color. I also run some KC Dayliters driving beams with a 75watt HID kit. Those have good color and blow the LEDS away.
On the close-up after you installed the first pair of new lenses, I could see that the left one looked like the it wasn't fully seated. As you look at it face-on, the left side was sticking out just a bit.
I get it, they run nice... easy on the eyes. But the build quality is obviously a problem, and maybe on purpose. Notice, they sell all these parts because they KNOW they are going to fall apart. I bought a set of Rigid Dually Pro Driving pods and MAN, That output and build quality is unmatched anywhere. Check em' out. Nowhere near as huge on the front of the rig too! When I drive our beater 4runner it still has Halogen lights..and I can see the CRI effect vs my HID on my Jeep. It's interesting, but at the end of the day I want BRIGHT lights out in the sticks, regardless of color.
Yep i have 1 little light bar for the spread at night in the bush driving and i have 2 light force Striker Halogen lights for at night for the long distance and they are awesome and my setup been awesome for me but each to there own ' Seek Adventure ... but yep thumbs up for this Review cheers
Thanks for this mate!! The only reason i'm holding off getting these is because they're worth more than my car LoL. If someone steals my Adventure Kings ones, meh, i'll buy the next "game changer" lights they're selling. If someone would flog the Fyrlyts, well then i'd cry...
No mention of the efficiency - lumens per watt, etc. LEDs give a lot more light than halogens at the same power consumption. Halogens waste more than 50% on heat, so for some that will be a consideration. And while this was a review of a specific brand, of course there are many different lamps and everything from fog to flood to spot beams available. Thanks for the review
Thanks for enlightening vlog :-)
Stephen Kite boom boom
Tish...
Silicone grease on the o-rings is definitely a good idea, but perhaps the manufacturer should have included a grub screw to secure the lens once it's in position to stop it rotating and falling out
He3 says not a good idea.
@@rodneyjones4890 Well as an experienced industrial electrician with many years working in explosive areas and dealing with o-rings, I know it IS a good idea.
I went with the Kings $100 budget set of 9” lights, super bright.
Problem is so much of the light hits close to you because of the wide spread so when I have to dip them for oncoming cars it feels like I can’t see far at all.
and if there is a street sign anywhere you won’t see much except that sign because it reflects so badly.
I’m going back to halogen and maybe a light bar on the roof for when I want a solid floodlight
Old trick from Rallying. We cut a worm drive clamp in half. Flattened it out and drilled a small hole at each end with the drive block in the middle. We riveted or screwed one end to the lamp housing and the other to a part of the body or nudge bar. To adjust you just turn the wormdrive in or out as required.
Teying to imagine this. Need more details lol
Very clever idea Robert! Thanks for sharing 🙂👍
Thanks again for a great no nonsense review Michael. Always appreciate your honesty. Ive got a pair of rigid's on my ride. Excellent quality but so true the white light makes night driving strenuous on your eyes. I eventually switch them off to rest my eyes and leave on ther dually pods. Ive noticed they worst when it rains making everything look washed out. I am contemplating changing to hid but definitly not the fyrlights after your experiences. Maybe arb or someones else's. Just a thought dont u get led lights with say 3000k chips