Punished Props Academy beautiful piece of artwork there bill as all ways mate so keep up the good work🇦🇺👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 just because I can only like once
This project turned out totally amazing, I would like to make something similar in look/detail with my friend's son... but not a weapon! Any chance you might make a video of such a thing any time soon?
@Punished Props Academy ...pro tip on using the CA, you can put a drop of the accelerator on the mating surface so you don't have to put drops all over the place on the outside. So glue on one surface, drop of kicker on the other, join. Only note is that it'll go off much faster, so be quick lining up :)
This is BEAUTIFUL. Oblivion is one of my forgotten favorites because it was so low-key after it was released but it was so beautiful with the aesthetics. I love the pistol and rife throughout the film, and I've always wanted to see them in real life as tangible things you could hold. I'm glad you made this Bill, and I hope you get around to doing the rifle too lol
for sanding with just base PLA, I use a spray bottle of water to keep the friction temp down. Works perfectly well for me, and I've achieved super smooth results.
wet sanding also captures a lot of the dust and makes your sandpaper gums up a lot less, so pluses all around. well, except the fact that it makes everything around it wet, anyways.
Additional bonus, and slight negative, is that the water keeps the dust out of the air and your lungs... but it does make it a little messier on the model itself. It's important to clean it properly when done, of course.
That beginning bit got me! When I got into 3d modeling I *never* expected to be able to hold my models in my hands, 3d printing is truly *awesome.* I've had my printer for two years and seeing my models on the buildplate still feels like magic every time.
When spraying white over silvers, paint it black first, it will make the white stand out more and show as a brighter white. Using vinyl on top of a flat surface will make it stand out, whenever possible stencil and paint instead. Firearms are not likely to have decals for any warnings or instructions. They are usually laser engraved and color filled if necessary. To replicate this, laser or dremel etch the warnings and instructions, for metal, you can sandblast or chemical etch.
“Bits inside letters” In typography, a counter is the area of a letter that is entirely or partially enclosed by a letter form or a symbol (the counter-space/the hole of).
The entire time I'm looking at this print I can't stop gushing over what a good quality this is! It's basically ready off the bed, besides basic clean up of course
.1mm layer height will do this. I've printed as low as .05mm and although the quality is ridiculous, it just takes far too long to complete the tiniest model. I print figures and like to size some up to about 200mm tall. With the correct slicer settings and .1mm layer height, they should be next to perfect with no sanding required. Some filaments work better than others however. I only print in PLA unless I am printing extruder parts or something that absolutely requires ABS/PETG. You need to sacrifice speed for quality or quality for speed. I print using what used to be an ANET A7 which is modified to the point where only the original frame, stepper motors and aluminum bed is left from the stock unit. Everything else from the motherboard, extruder and power supply, firmware is custom. That being said, I got perfect prints with the stock A7. The main difference is I can bump the speed up to 100 or 200mm/s depending on what I am printing as opposed to 70max with the stock machine.
My favorite filaments to work with are PLA and PETG. Like you said, PLA is just the easiest thing in the world to get a decent result with if you have decent part cooling on your 3d printer. Yeah, you kind of need to start with an 80 grit sand paper to chew on those layer lines, but it's a good filament to cut your teeth on. I also like PETG for it's material properties. While it's not as heat resistant as ABS, it's close enough for most prop making uses. It's got some good strength, a little bit of give, and like PLA, PETG doesn't give off the same kind of fumes as ABS. As my work space by necessity is indoors, fume control is super important to me. Also, I love that sort of ruberized sand paper! it's my favorite kind!
I think you need to employ 3 full time sanderbots.....the sheer force of will it takes to sand over and over is something to behold....I personally love sanding pieces....but I know the mindset needed to do it over a long period of time and to a high degree any piece needs....over and over again...love you channel....I found you 3 weeks ago and have been through maybe 30 of your vids so far and I find something new everytime.....
Hey Bill, great video! To your question - I work pretty exclusively in PLA. Part of this is my printer - it's an older model that I've rebuilt a couple of times and has no heated bed, although I could mod it to include one. But the low cost of pretty good PLAs makes it so easy to just run and rerun parts. It's also fairly forgiving of the weird temperatures in my shop (i.e. I'm in Canada and it's really cold down there right now). And once you get into a rhythm of working with it, it's not super hard to post-process. Finally, I'm not set up to capture or vent nasty fumes so having a low-emission process is handy.
hey bill fantastic video I do a bit of 3D printing myself .. As one of the last people I know that uses ABS for its rigidity (PETG is good but is a nightmare to remove support material). When you do your next ABS build try out the following. Make a slightly more milky version of your slurry (acetone/ABS mix) , Use this a bit like you use modpodge . Use an old paint brush and run it over printer parts to close up the layer layer lines.a little before sanding and /or after to close up the print (much like you use your hot air gun to defuzz the edges of foam after cutting) Make a slightly thicker mix or use your ABS slurry itself as filler on parts like the base of the gun which looked very grainy instead of spot putty. Hopefully you already use your sluury for all bonding parts instead of super glue for a super strong weld. This will also mean you wont need to use spotty putty anywhere near as much. This will also mean your weld joints and softening will hopefully speed up a little as its takes as long to set properly as it takes the acetone to burn off which is usually minutes.
First time I watched one of your videos, I like how you take your time to educate me as a novice to the trade :) Also very nice that you put the humble patreon reminder into the painting part, very smooth!
I also print mainly with ABS, but for bigger prints I use HIPS fillament for years now. It is very similar to ABS, but it shrinks less. It has very nice matte finish, especially in black color. Also it has heat resistance of ABS. I know many sellers advertise HIPS as "support material" but it's just one of many benefits of this material. EDIT: This video is pure ART, thank you :-)
I have two suggestions for you. 1) Get some pipettes to dispense your paint so you're not spilling it all over the threads of the jar. 2) If you want a REALLY sharp blade then make a leather strop. Any old leather glued to a piece of whatever with some compound will make a new blade sharper than anything you could imagine. I tried it once expecting to make the blade duller and found it got ungodly sharp and have been doing it ever since. Instead of going through three blades a day I can make a blade last for weeks until I finally break off the tip. I start by stropping the blade before it's ever used and it makes a huge difference.
Wow! This was an incredi-Bill Bill'd vid! I loved this whole process and the production/editing of this submission! Thank you so muchly!~ Also, you are adora-Bill - your charm is half the reason I subscribed! Keep rocking it! Love your channel! Thanks Bill and crew - Almost able to be a P-Tron (soon)
eSun PLA+ prints great and easy and has a little higher glass transition temp than regular PLA. I've done quite a few larger projects with this filament.
PLA is terrible to sand though, kinda smushes and clumps and doesn't come off the print, hard to describe but sanding PLA is a headache compared to ABS or PETG etc, if you need to sand your prints PLA isn't great.
@@KriLL325783 I don't disagree. I tend to use XTC3d or putty when I need it supersmooth. Most of the time I highfill primer will do most of the work. I've also found wet sanding is way better stop the clumping.
@@samuland Yeah gotten further into the video now and wow that's a lot of sanding, feels like shrinking the 3d model a smidge and coating it in some kind of primer or something (I assume that's what XTC3d is) instead of sanding that much would be a lot less tedious to build a smooth surface on top of the print basically, instead of sanding the print down to be smooth.
I know lots of people who prefer PLA and they'll blast the print with some kind of filler, like a high build filler primer, right off the print bed and then sand it. To each his/her own! =)
PLA is hands down my favourite plastic to print with, specifically because it is so easy by comparison. It also comes in all sorts of cool colours and variants, and it's cheap and ubiquitous (for good reason!). I very rarely have requirements for properties that means I need other types of plastic, but whenever I do print in something else it's because I need something with better heat tolerance or durability than PLA.
A note on your rub and buff application sights. Oblivion (great movie) centers on a guy who always carries but rarely draws (compared to his career length, I mean). This is the same for most real cops. The kind of wear that these kinds of guns get is called holster wear. Every day the gun is put into a holster, and at the end of the day its taken out. If you have a decently protective holster, the only points that should show wear are were the gun rubs against the holster, and anything that doesn't get covered, like the handle. If they use a cloth flap holster, you'll have less wear than if you use a molded kydex holster that tightly grips the gun as it is holstered or drawn. For reference images of this kind of wear, search for LEO trade ins (law enforcement officers usually don't own their guns, their departments do, and if their department decides it wants different guns for whatever reason, then lots of old guns hit the surplus market. These usually have LOTS of holster wear, but not much actual use. You should be able to find a ton of reference images on sites that sell this type of gun.)
Also, Idk about you, but I'd be careful making a gun look super dirty, even this one. Unless you're constantly swimming in dirt and mud, etc. a gun isn't gonna get that dirty.
@@banjobill8420 A beat cop? No. Tom Cruise's character after he falls into a sewer? Maybe, But I guarantee the first thing he would do after he crawled out of that sewer would be to clean his guns.
That blade runner blaster finish.... Bill you are a monster...Amazing work. I need to finish my testing for the Mr. Surfacer stuff. I had some chemical or cold reaction that ruined my first test but it was crazy how smooth it would get with no sanding. Just requires a lot of coats... and at $9 for a tiny can... well it wasn't economical. So I was testing it on top of 2 in 1 filler primer when I ran into the issue. Just too busy with my Transistor build to get back to it.
Hey Bill, That's an awesome work with that prop. If I had a 3D printer, I'd immediately try this very prop for my self. I love your work and explanations. Keep going and greetings from Germany
As far as dust masks, I recently discovered the type similar to the cheap-ish one shown, but with a simple check valve in the front. This is great for keeping glasses/goggles from fogging up, because exhaled breath goes out the front, rather than leaking around the edges.
Rotating the slide so the barrel cutout is pointing up would minimize the supports needed and eliminated that stringy stuff on the side (assuming your printer could accomodate those dimensions, otherwise, you could have printed in two pieces and glued them together and bondo the seam before sanding). the stringy stuff was the printer either moving too quick or the bed was too cold.
My favorite filaments change depending on use. I'm so used to PLA, it's what I stick to. My favorite for a while was carbon fiber PLA, but I am now falling in love with metal fill PLAs like bronze and copper. And for wooden parts, nothing beats wood filament.
A great video. Fun and I learned stuff! You asked about Print filament, I only have the Dremel 3D20 so I can only use PLA, but so far my favorite filaments are Stainless Steel Fill from Proto-Pasta (It's heavier then normal PLA and sands much easier, kind looks like bare Die-cast metal when buffed. Stupid expensive compared to regular PLA, but if you haven't tried it, it's awesome for hand props and details. Printed an entire BR blaster out of it! ) and Wood Fill (I used the cheaper Hatchbox version from Amazon. Again, sands really well and can be stained. Great for prop gun grips!) Thanks for the awesome build video
Favorite filament is NGEN, made by Colorfabb. It's got the same strength as ABS, almost the same temperature resistance as well, but it prints like PLA without warping on a normal open printer. It's more expensive but for sure the best filament I have ever seen.
I seen a similar pistol made by an apprentice or a gunsmith for one of the top companies in the early 1900's. I don't recall the manufacturer nor the maker but they shelved the model and it never came to be a working gun. Had a cool angled grip like the one you modeled there. I think Ethan from forgotten weapons showed it on his channel one time. Model looks cool.
9:25 It's called a, "card" because it is esssentially the same type of wire brush that is used in the processing of wool. Raw wool is pulled between two "carding tools," and the process is called, "carding the wool." This preps the fibers for being spun in to wool thread.
My favorite filament is PLA, for the main reason that I print in the house. PLA is a major pain in the butt to finish though, I showed you my Shore Trooper helmet on twitter back in November. It took a lot of effort but worth it in the end. I'm currently printing a lifesize R2D2 and though I'd love to use ABS, its only a static prop with lights and sound so PLA will work.
Thanks for the great documentation of your build! I’m printing PLA only on a PEI sheet glued onto a glass plate because my printer does not have a heated bed.
My Cr-10 produces great prints with just straight PLA, and with a little 220-400 grit sanding and some wood filler, I can get results that are smooth as heck and ready for painting. PLA is also cheaper than ABS, and it doesn't need an enclosure to stop it warping from the build plate. For me, printing with a 0.1 - 0.14 mm. layer height produces little and extremely unnoticeable layer lines, and an infill of around 40% or so makes really durable prints, even when printing something skinny like the sides of a helmet. I have yet to try a filament like PETG extensively, because right now PLA is working for me just fine.
After 2 minutes, I said to myself, this is why I’ll never buy a 3D printer. So incredibly complicated. Kind of depressing, frankly. Love your channel and your work. Wish I had your knowledge! 😊
I've been printing a lot of PETG, and I like the properties (heat resistance, springiness) but it's VERY hard to glue to anything, so that's a downside... by the way, I love how you do the window in window for the sponsor. best of both worlds.
if you don't have a 3D printer, you can also export your file as an .obj and send it to pepakura designer to print off and build the more tedious way. But it can be a lot of fun and rather satisfying when you pull off a well made finished piece.
It came out awesome 🙌 ...I need to print something instead of just watching videos about it 🤣 I always wanted the gun from V when I was a kid. *opens fusion and starts booleaning*
I also use ABS as it sands really well but also because you can use the slurry that you also use for bed adhesion as either a glue to bond two pieces together better then super glue as it will be chemically "welded" them. Also the slurry is great for a body filler to remove that you had at the 10min mark or under extrusion / layer lines. just apply with a Q-tip or paint brush
4:43 answers the question most of us probably have. Yes, there's a longer & more detailed edit. Personally I prefer printing in PLA because it's cheaper than most other filaments and there's generally a wider variety of options.
Definitely PETG here. Prints well on my modified Prusa and sands/post processes better than PLA without being that much more expensive (assuming you're using a quality PLA and not some $20 amazon budget brand). Only issue is Ireland is humid so it needs stored well and dried. It 93% humidity at 2 degree Celcius atm for example. Love the carbon fibre stuff most of all for functional stuff.
@@DK-Design Oh yeah, while it gets wet quicker than PLA, it can at least be dried out and be good as new; with PLA the structure changes so pretty much once it's wet it's boned.
@@rocknrollnerd3 If you prepare the surface well enough it tends to do pretty well. Definitely want to key the every living shit out of it with something coarse like red scotch brite and then give a good auto primer cover before any paint. Straight on the surface without any primer and it just... well it doesn't go well XD
Awesome video, very informative, I use a thin mixture of plaster mixed with water over PLA to fill the layer lines and sand easy and also use something similar to drywall sparkle paste to fill lines, it can be thinned with water and wet sands easy. Like how ABS sands in the video, its similar to my SLA prints.
I also like ABS for props because of the easy sanding, but ASA is a perfect material for durable parts like laser tag and nerf blasters and mods. Also, a useful and inexpensive sanding tool is a sapphire nail file. It uses very hard aluminum oxide (like ruby's and sapphires) as the abrasive material. Usually about $10 at a drug store, and can be found elsewhere for less.
Check out work in progress photos and the full tools & materials list here: punishedprops.com/2019/01/28/oblivion-movie-pistol/
Punished Props Academy beautiful piece of artwork there bill as all ways mate so keep up the good work🇦🇺👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 just because I can only like once
This project turned out totally amazing, I would like to make something similar in look/detail with my friend's son... but not a weapon! Any chance you might make a video of such a thing any time soon?
@Punished Props Academy ...pro tip on using the CA, you can put a drop of the accelerator on the mating surface so you don't have to put drops all over the place on the outside. So glue on one surface, drop of kicker on the other, join. Only note is that it'll go off much faster, so be quick lining up :)
Perhaps if you make something like this again ... add a WORKING TRIGGER as if used in a film, it causes the actor to react to the 'realism.'
D.A.
7 seconds in and I already feel sorry for that keyboard
It's such a trooper!
This is BEAUTIFUL. Oblivion is one of my forgotten favorites because it was so low-key after it was released but it was so beautiful with the aesthetics. I love the pistol and rife throughout the film, and I've always wanted to see them in real life as tangible things you could hold. I'm glad you made this Bill, and I hope you get around to doing the rifle too lol
for sanding with just base PLA, I use a spray bottle of water to keep the friction temp down. Works perfectly well for me, and I've achieved super smooth results.
That's a fantastic idea!
a second this, i've recently printed a big 1967 camaro and wet sanded the entire thing along with wood putty for filler
wet sanding also captures a lot of the dust and makes your sandpaper gums up a lot less, so pluses all around.
well, except the fact that it makes everything around it wet, anyways.
Additional bonus, and slight negative, is that the water keeps the dust out of the air and your lungs... but it does make it a little messier on the model itself. It's important to clean it properly when done, of course.
@@xureality lol we were typing that at the same time. :)
That beginning bit got me!
When I got into 3d modeling I *never* expected to be able to hold my models in my hands, 3d printing is truly *awesome.* I've had my printer for two years and seeing my models on the buildplate still feels like magic every time.
i have to say that i am not the tiniest bit into cosplay stuff and building props, but man that is utterly satisfying to watch. love it
Wonderful! Thanks so much for stopping by, glad you had a good time!
That intro trick grab was your best editing magic yet. Even more so than the duplicate stick.
HA! Thanks so much! =)
When spraying white over silvers, paint it black first, it will make the white stand out more and show as a brighter white.
Using vinyl on top of a flat surface will make it stand out, whenever possible stencil and paint instead. Firearms are not likely to have decals for any warnings or instructions. They are usually laser engraved and color filled if necessary. To replicate this, laser or dremel etch the warnings and instructions, for metal, you can sandblast or chemical etch.
I would watch hours of filling and sanding the imperfections of 3d prints. It's just so satisfying.
“Bits inside letters”
In typography, a counter is the area of a letter that is entirely or partially enclosed by a letter form or a symbol (the counter-space/the hole of).
cool bit o info. thanks.
The entire time I'm looking at this print I can't stop gushing over what a good quality this is! It's basically ready off the bed, besides basic clean up of course
.1mm layer height will do this. I've printed as low as .05mm and although the quality is ridiculous, it just takes far too long to complete the tiniest model.
I print figures and like to size some up to about 200mm tall. With the correct slicer settings and .1mm layer height, they should be next to perfect with no sanding required. Some filaments work better than others however. I only print in PLA unless I am printing extruder parts or something that absolutely requires ABS/PETG.
You need to sacrifice speed for quality or quality for speed.
I print using what used to be an ANET A7 which is modified to the point where only the original frame, stepper motors and aluminum bed is left from the stock unit. Everything else from the motherboard, extruder and power supply, firmware is custom. That being said, I got perfect prints with the stock A7. The main difference is I can bump the speed up to 100 or 200mm/s depending on what I am printing as opposed to 70max with the stock machine.
My favorite filaments to work with are PLA and PETG. Like you said, PLA is just the easiest thing in the world to get a decent result with if you have decent part cooling on your 3d printer. Yeah, you kind of need to start with an 80 grit sand paper to chew on those layer lines, but it's a good filament to cut your teeth on. I also like PETG for it's material properties. While it's not as heat resistant as ABS, it's close enough for most prop making uses. It's got some good strength, a little bit of give, and like PLA, PETG doesn't give off the same kind of fumes as ABS. As my work space by necessity is indoors, fume control is super important to me. Also, I love that sort of ruberized sand paper! it's my favorite kind!
Going back through your older videos! This one is awesome. Really love the sharpie demonstration.
Probably one of my favorite videos yet. But just watching you sanding all these tiny, intricate parts made me crazy...
Sanding is life...
I think you need to employ 3 full time sanderbots.....the sheer force of will it takes to sand over and over is something to behold....I personally love sanding pieces....but I know the mindset needed to do it over a long period of time and to a high degree any piece needs....over and over again...love you channel....I found you 3 weeks ago and have been through maybe 30 of your vids so far and I find something new everytime.....
Glad you're enjoying the channel!
Fantastic as always! The finish is outstanding and I love that you show that it is done in steps and not perfect on the first try. Good work!
Thank you very much!
Step by step. Good explanations that are easy to understand, and a ton of tips along the way. These videos are the best! Thank you Mr. & Mrs Doran😉
This is the best build you’ve done (in my opinion) in a while. Good job, and good video.
That was surprisingly smooth. Like, usually you see it pop in just before the person grabs it, but dang. 'Twas smooth.
this is the perfect video to watch while sanding
Hey Bill, great video! To your question - I work pretty exclusively in PLA. Part of this is my printer - it's an older model that I've rebuilt a couple of times and has no heated bed, although I could mod it to include one. But the low cost of pretty good PLAs makes it so easy to just run and rerun parts. It's also fairly forgiving of the weird temperatures in my shop (i.e. I'm in Canada and it's really cold down there right now). And once you get into a rhythm of working with it, it's not super hard to post-process. Finally, I'm not set up to capture or vent nasty fumes so having a low-emission process is handy.
hey bill fantastic video I do a bit of 3D printing myself .. As one of the last people I know that uses ABS for its rigidity (PETG is good but is a nightmare to remove support material). When you do your next ABS build try out the following.
Make a slightly more milky version of your slurry (acetone/ABS mix) , Use this a bit like you use modpodge . Use an old paint brush and run it over printer parts to close up the layer layer lines.a little before sanding and /or after to close up the print (much like you use your hot air gun to defuzz the edges of foam after cutting)
Make a slightly thicker mix or use your ABS slurry itself as filler on parts like the base of the gun which looked very grainy instead of spot putty. Hopefully you already use your sluury for all bonding parts instead of super glue for a super strong weld. This will also mean you wont need to use spotty putty anywhere near as much.
This will also mean your weld joints and softening will hopefully speed up a little as its takes as long to set properly as it takes the acetone to burn off which is usually minutes.
Great tips, thanks!
9:25 It's a "carding brush" It's used to align and separate wool fibers when making hand spun yarn.
I just watched a 40 minute video without noticing or caring. Wow!
I went to the comments just as the video was ending and saw this comment can't believe it's 40 minutes
The Joy of Sanding with Bill Doran
Oh man, future intro skit idea!
6:30 That purple handle is the cleanest extruded 3D print I have ever seen. amazing
Greatest advice of 2019. “ try not to huff it”! Lol
Your Sand game is legendary! After watching this build, I feel like being a better human being :D AWESOME!
Once again this has got my creative juices flowing
Thanks for the new video guys! I really enjoy these long form videos. Keep up the great work!
You're welcome! Glad you like the videos :)
that grab was really smooth
Easily the most useful (for me) video I've seen from you so far. Thank you!
One of your best work Ive seen on this channel. Awesome!
Thanks very much!
First time I watched one of your videos, I like how you take your time to educate me as a novice to the trade :) Also very nice that you put the humble patreon reminder into the painting part, very smooth!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
I also print mainly with ABS, but for bigger prints I use HIPS fillament for years now. It is very similar to ABS, but it shrinks less. It has very nice matte finish, especially in black color. Also it has heat resistance of ABS. I know many sellers advertise HIPS as "support material" but it's just one of many benefits of this material.
EDIT: This video is pure ART, thank you :-)
I have two suggestions for you.
1) Get some pipettes to dispense your paint so you're not spilling it all over the threads of the jar.
2) If you want a REALLY sharp blade then make a leather strop. Any old leather glued to a piece of whatever with some compound will make a new blade sharper than anything you could imagine. I tried it once expecting to make the blade duller and found it got ungodly sharp and have been doing it ever since. Instead of going through three blades a day I can make a blade last for weeks until I finally break off the tip. I start by stropping the blade before it's ever used and it makes a huge difference.
I have been waiting for this since the movie came out!!
Wow! This was an incredi-Bill Bill'd vid! I loved this whole process and the production/editing of this submission! Thank you so muchly!~ Also, you are adora-Bill - your charm is half the reason I subscribed! Keep rocking it! Love your channel! Thanks Bill and crew - Almost able to be a P-Tron (soon)
man, this was amazing, ty
never used superglue as a filler and din't know that there is an accelerator for it ) cheers, subscribed
Amazing yet again.
Love what you guys do.
I'll never 3D print, but still fun to watch.
Thanks!
Never say never!
That intro shot was seamless
Pressed pause to go and watch the complete tutorial!! Thank you for sharing this knowledge with us!
That's fantastic!
eSun PLA+ prints great and easy and has a little higher glass transition temp than regular PLA. I've done quite a few larger projects with this filament.
PLA is terrible to sand though, kinda smushes and clumps and doesn't come off the print, hard to describe but sanding PLA is a headache compared to ABS or PETG etc, if you need to sand your prints PLA isn't great.
@@KriLL325783 I don't disagree. I tend to use XTC3d or putty when I need it supersmooth. Most of the time I highfill primer will do most of the work. I've also found wet sanding is way better stop the clumping.
@@samuland Yeah gotten further into the video now and wow that's a lot of sanding, feels like shrinking the 3d model a smidge and coating it in some kind of primer or something (I assume that's what XTC3d is) instead of sanding that much would be a lot less tedious to build a smooth surface on top of the print basically, instead of sanding the print down to be smooth.
I know lots of people who prefer PLA and they'll blast the print with some kind of filler, like a high build filler primer, right off the print bed and then sand it. To each his/her own! =)
PLA is hands down my favourite plastic to print with, specifically because it is so easy by comparison. It also comes in all sorts of cool colours and variants, and it's cheap and ubiquitous (for good reason!). I very rarely have requirements for properties that means I need other types of plastic, but whenever I do print in something else it's because I need something with better heat tolerance or durability than PLA.
A note on your rub and buff application sights. Oblivion (great movie) centers on a guy who always carries but rarely draws (compared to his career length, I mean). This is the same for most real cops. The kind of wear that these kinds of guns get is called holster wear. Every day the gun is put into a holster, and at the end of the day its taken out. If you have a decently protective holster, the only points that should show wear are were the gun rubs against the holster, and anything that doesn't get covered, like the handle. If they use a cloth flap holster, you'll have less wear than if you use a molded kydex holster that tightly grips the gun as it is holstered or drawn. For reference images of this kind of wear, search for LEO trade ins (law enforcement officers usually don't own their guns, their departments do, and if their department decides it wants different guns for whatever reason, then lots of old guns hit the surplus market. These usually have LOTS of holster wear, but not much actual use. You should be able to find a ton of reference images on sites that sell this type of gun.)
Very interesting, thanks for sharing!
Also, Idk about you, but I'd be careful making a gun look super dirty, even this one. Unless you're constantly swimming in dirt and mud, etc. a gun isn't gonna get that dirty.
@@banjobill8420 A beat cop? No. Tom Cruise's character after he falls into a sewer? Maybe, But I guarantee the first thing he would do after he crawled out of that sewer would be to clean his guns.
That blade runner blaster finish.... Bill you are a monster...Amazing work. I need to finish my testing for the Mr. Surfacer stuff. I had some chemical or cold reaction that ruined my first test but it was crazy how smooth it would get with no sanding. Just requires a lot of coats... and at $9 for a tiny can... well it wasn't economical. So I was testing it on top of 2 in 1 filler primer when I ran into the issue. Just too busy with my Transistor build to get back to it.
Liked simply for that awesome transition in the opening! :D
Sticking with pla as its just what im used too. My two printers are set up for it with a tuned profile, wet sanding works a treat on it also
I don't know if I can do something so cool, but you inspire me to just try. I'm amazed what can be achieved with a 3d printer
Heck yeah! You can absolutely do it! Just keep at it :)
It was amazing seeing this process, thank you. You obviously put a lot of work and love into these props.
Amazing walkthrough.....I Really wanted to learn 3D modelling and get a 3D printer until I saw this video....I still want a 3D printer....
It's a great process and you can learn basic stuff really quickly!
WOW. you are so good and easy to get going with your ideas.. Thanks for explaining everything and using energy on it for all of us
You're most welcome!
Amazing work! Really enjoyed seeing the 3d modelling side of it as well 👌🏻
Oh wonderful! =)
Always love your 'boop' noises whenever applying something! Very recognizable. :D
It’s just so incredibly clean...amazing piece!
Thanks so much!
Hey Bill,
That's an awesome work with that prop.
If I had a 3D printer, I'd immediately try this very prop for my self.
I love your work and explanations.
Keep going and greetings from Germany
Thanks so much!
As far as dust masks, I recently discovered the type similar to the cheap-ish one shown, but with a simple check valve in the front. This is great for keeping glasses/goggles from fogging up, because exhaled breath goes out the front, rather than leaking around the edges.
Extremely clean build, as usual, well done.
Thanks!
Rotating the slide so the barrel cutout is pointing up would minimize the supports needed and eliminated that stringy stuff on the side (assuming your printer could accomodate those dimensions, otherwise, you could have printed in two pieces and glued them together and bondo the seam before sanding). the stringy stuff was the printer either moving too quick or the bed was too cold.
My favorite filaments change depending on use. I'm so used to PLA, it's what I stick to. My favorite for a while was carbon fiber PLA, but I am now falling in love with metal fill PLAs like bronze and copper. And for wooden parts, nothing beats wood filament.
That super glue tip is awesome! I gotta use that in the future. Thank you!
A great video. Fun and I learned stuff! You asked about Print filament, I only have the Dremel 3D20 so I can only use PLA, but so far my favorite filaments are Stainless Steel Fill from Proto-Pasta (It's heavier then normal PLA and sands much easier, kind looks like bare Die-cast metal when buffed. Stupid expensive compared to regular PLA, but if you haven't tried it, it's awesome for hand props and details. Printed an entire BR blaster out of it! ) and Wood Fill (I used the cheaper Hatchbox version from Amazon. Again, sands really well and can be stained. Great for prop gun grips!) Thanks for the awesome build video
That's a very cool finished product. Well done!
Thank you!
Favorite filament is NGEN, made by Colorfabb.
It's got the same strength as ABS, almost the same temperature resistance as well, but it prints like PLA without warping on a normal open printer.
It's more expensive but for sure the best filament I have ever seen.
Thank you, this is extremely helpful! And I appreciate the little bit at the end, there's always some "oops" moments when making things :)
I really need to start printing in ABS. I'm amazed at how easy that sands!
Great video with excellent tips! Love how you left super gluing paper towel to your hand, hilariously priceless! Thanks for the laugh!😂
Really loving Filacube PLA2, prints super easy and smooth and can be machine sanded without much of an issue. I do print a ton in ABS as well though
I seen a similar pistol made by an apprentice or a gunsmith for one of the top companies in the early 1900's. I don't recall the manufacturer nor the maker but they shelved the model and it never came to be a working gun. Had a cool angled grip like the one you modeled there. I think Ethan from forgotten weapons showed it on his channel one time. Model looks cool.
That Sir Was A Master Work From Top To Bottom. I Will Be ReWatching :)
I don't 3D print but this is soo relaxing to watch. I do screenprinting, and like here, the process is just as important as the end result
9:25 It's called a, "card" because it is esssentially the same type of wire brush that is used in the processing of wool. Raw wool is pulled between two "carding tools," and the process is called, "carding the wool." This preps the fibers for being spun in to wool thread.
My favorite filament is PLA, for the main reason that I print in the house. PLA is a major pain in the butt to finish though, I showed you my Shore Trooper helmet on twitter back in November. It took a lot of effort but worth it in the end. I'm currently printing a lifesize R2D2 and though I'd love to use ABS, its only a static prop with lights and sound so PLA will work.
I love what you do! Amazing job on that blaster. Really impressive end result!
Thanks for the great documentation of your build! I’m printing PLA only on a PEI sheet glued onto a glass plate because my printer does not have a heated bed.
Sounds like a great solution!
My Cr-10 produces great prints with just straight PLA, and with a little 220-400 grit sanding and some wood filler, I can get results that are smooth as heck and ready for painting. PLA is also cheaper than ABS, and it doesn't need an enclosure to stop it warping from the build plate. For me, printing with a 0.1 - 0.14 mm. layer height produces little and extremely unnoticeable layer lines, and an infill of around 40% or so makes really durable prints, even when printing something skinny like the sides of a helmet. I have yet to try a filament like PETG extensively, because right now PLA is working for me just fine.
SUBSCRIBED !!! I don't need to watch the video... after you grabbed that print out of your screen I KNEW I had to find the secret !! hahahah nice vid
Well I wish it was so easy to pull something up on your computer and then just reach into your monitor and pull the object out
Agreed!
Elon Musk : " Hold my beer."
This is really excellent work bill. Awesome job. Wish I had a 3d printer.
After 2 minutes, I said to myself, this is why I’ll never buy a 3D printer. So incredibly complicated. Kind of depressing, frankly.
Love your channel and your work. Wish I had your knowledge! 😊
I've been printing a lot of PETG, and I like the properties (heat resistance, springiness) but it's VERY hard to glue to anything, so that's a downside...
by the way, I love how you do the window in window for the sponsor. best of both worlds.
So glad I stumbled on this channel!
We're so happy to have you!
The Daniel Simon design for that pistol is really nice.
Isn't it? I've always loved it
Favourite filament?
Solid gold
if you don't have a 3D printer, you can also export your file as an .obj and send it to pepakura designer to print off and build the more tedious way. But it can be a lot of fun and rather satisfying when you pull off a well made finished piece.
queue that wonderful sanding montage
"Sanding Montage" should be the name of my biography.
It came out awesome 🙌 ...I need to print something instead of just watching videos about it 🤣 I always wanted the gun from V when I was a kid. *opens fusion and starts booleaning*
I like the idea of using a slurry for your print-bed! If you haven’t already, should do a video on your tips and tricks for 3D printing. :D
I also use ABS as it sands really well but also because you can use the slurry that you also use for bed adhesion as either a glue to bond two pieces together better then super glue as it will be chemically "welded" them. Also the slurry is great for a body filler to remove that you had at the 10min mark or under extrusion / layer lines. just apply with a Q-tip or paint brush
4:43 answers the question most of us probably have. Yes, there's a longer & more detailed edit. Personally I prefer printing in PLA because it's cheaper than most other filaments and there's generally a wider variety of options.
This turned out so great! Thanks for sharing.
Very nice work! I was a bit surprised that you did not use a sanding block on flat surfaces.
Looks really great. I use PLA mainly because that is what My library uses in theirs.
Y'all are so bingeable, and srs cosplay goals.
Thanks so much, that's so wonderful to hear!
Definitely PETG here. Prints well on my modified Prusa and sands/post processes better than PLA without being that much more expensive (assuming you're using a quality PLA and not some $20 amazon budget brand). Only issue is Ireland is humid so it needs stored well and dried. It 93% humidity at 2 degree Celcius atm for example. Love the carbon fibre stuff most of all for functional stuff.
Ooh neat!
PETG here too but in Florida, at 100% all the time. I feel your pain. I think my PETG holds up in the moisture better then when I started with PLA.
@@DK-Design Oh yeah, while it gets wet quicker than PLA, it can at least be dried out and be good as new; with PLA the structure changes so pretty much once it's wet it's boned.
You think it takes paint okay? I’d heard a lot of people say that PET is really difficult to paint. I’ve only tried painting PLA because of that.
@@rocknrollnerd3 If you prepare the surface well enough it tends to do pretty well. Definitely want to key the every living shit out of it with something coarse like red scotch brite and then give a good auto primer cover before any paint. Straight on the surface without any primer and it just... well it doesn't go well XD
Awesome video, very informative, I use a thin mixture of plaster mixed with water over PLA to fill the layer lines and sand easy and also use something similar to drywall sparkle paste to fill lines, it can be thinned with water and wet sands easy. Like how ABS sands in the video, its similar to my SLA prints.
Neat!
I also like ABS for props because of the easy sanding, but ASA is a perfect material for durable parts like laser tag and nerf blasters and mods.
Also, a useful and inexpensive sanding tool is a sapphire nail file. It uses very hard aluminum oxide (like ruby's and sapphires) as the abrasive material. Usually about $10 at a drug store, and can be found elsewhere for less.
Your attention to detail is excellent thumbs up from me.
Thansk very much!
Phenomenal work! Learned a tone of techniques too.
Wonderful!
Can I ask what model of vinyl sticker printer do you use? Would love to get one of those too!
Bill, Dr. Disrespect told me in confidence that your magic is "Legit"!