Shed Time - Hope Brake Calliper Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2017
- Got a hope brake set? Piston a little stiff? Time to strip it down and replace the seals!
In this visit to the Shed, we separate the calliper form the line, remove the pistons, clean everything down. Before rebuilding with fresh seals, we then reattaching the calliper and bleeding the whole system.
We were working on a older M4 calliper but the process is identical for all Hope callipers as well as callipers of a similar style.
Remember to like and subscribe to follow the project and feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions.
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To push pistons down use 6mm socket with extension. This helps to keep it straight 😉
Great tip!
Great video, well produced and informative, thanks 👍🏻
Amazing and easy-to-follow video. thank you.
Thank you for this video it’s truly one of the only rebuild vids out their. This was a life saver!
Your welcome! Glad it was useful and don't forget to like and subscribe!
Brilliant video your so calm... Few great bits of advise cheers
Thats rhe first and last time a Scottish person was described as calm 😂 glad you enjoyed the vudeo, checkout my latest upload in how to install disc brakes.
Just used this video to service my M4’s. Very easy to follow and done within no time at all, the time it took me to sup my cuppa in fact. Thanks, I was dreading doing this but it’s easy to follow this guide.
Glad this got you through it. The hopes are well designed so a delight to work on once you know the procedure. If you want more service and ride videos of really appreciate the sub. If not enjoy your brakes and happy trails.
Stravaiging MTB already Subbed, will get round to watching some more next week! Thanks again
Awesome! Hope you like the other stuff!
Nice video. I basically followed this to service my V4 fout-pot caliper. The only difference being the V4 requires an 8mm spanner rather than 7mm.
+a100267 Glad you liked it, the Hope calipers are more or less identical in their architecture. A pretty easy service with the right tools.
Great description thanks .. the hope bore cap tools are the hard bit! There are only bolt screws my ancient M4 ‘s so exploring I shall go.
Did you figure out how to remove your pistons without the hope bore caps? I've also got an ancient set of M4s, and can only get one large piston out
Thanks!
great video, straight on to the job with no boring put-you-to-sleep preamble waffling. good man (you just need a new mug, winking emoji) subscribed.
Cheers bud and thanks for the sub. I have a cupboard full of mugs and always end up using the same ones! 🤣
So useful! Thank you.
No worries glad it helped and hoped your brakes are running sweet again.
Thanks really helpful , this weekends task
Your welcome and make sure you give yourself plenty of time as it can be a fiddly job.
A piece of wood will stop the pistons coming out before you are ready.
When pistons are stuck, hold an opposing pair with a block of wood. For badly stuck "back" piston hold its opposite number with a clamp. I made one from two steel strips and two M6 bolts. This gives enough space to pump out the offending piston.
👌🏻 thanks
If you soak the Metal parts in a solution of biological washing powder they will clean up really well.
Great video despite what some people might say.
A couple of tips that I would make are: 1) Put some safety glasses on (I usually remember half way through) as fluid in the eyes is not good. 2) A rubber band around the brake lever/bars acts as a third hand by keeping the lever tight against the bars whilst locking the bleed nipple up again with your other two hands - why didn't I think of this yesterday whilst bleeding my mate's brake?
Thanks for the tips, yes I'm terrible for remembering glasses but have a set in my current work space. And hey you make something and put it on the internet your going to get trolled, thats how it works.
You really are very good at doing these things, as well as explaining it very, very well. Congratulations. I'm looking at brakes to buy right now and I don't know whether to stick with SRAM or switch to Shimano with his Saint or get into Hope with his famous Tech3 E4.
Thank you that's very kind of you to say. Well I usually like shimano but I'm also running Magura brakes on two of my bikes and I'm happy with all of them.
excellent video. Do you have to replace pads before commencing the bleed to stop the pistons being pushed out and dot 5 leaking out
+mark soden thanks Mark, yes for a full bleed new pads are a must or like you say, you will push the pads out resulting in over filling the system.
Put some plywood between the pistons to keep them well back. You then have less fluid volume in the caliper to hold bubbles. It also avoids any fluid contaminating the brake pads. This is an old trick I used for Yamaha "Blue Spot" motorbike brakes which are bigger versions of these Hope brakes.
Wish I'd watched this before I started tearing mine down 🤣. Disconnected and drained everything before removing the pistons and broke one the banjo fitting trying to remove it.
I have the same master cylinder with an old Mono Mini caliper. Doing a full rebuild.
One thing I'm struggling with on the master cylinder is after removing the lever blade the is a little funnel shaped rubber seal. I was able to pop the retention clip and boot out. Below that there is the tiniest circlip holding the threaded rod into the body. It seems to be threaded into a brass piece and there is a spring behind it. Is there another seal behind that to be replaced in the MC rebuild kit?
Great video ... get the Hope easy bleed kit to make your life a bit easier.
Its a smart bit of kit, but I don't have these anymore unfortunately.
I have the inner pistons totally stuck in (the first set of piston you recommend removing). Do you have any tip on gunseizing them?
Any tips on doing this while installing a completely new hose? Is the regular bleed process the best way to purge all the air from the new empty hose (open bleed nipple, pull lever, close bleed nipple, release lever, repeat) or should gravity take care of most of the work when filling the MC with DOT fluid?
Initially yes, but do a second purge with the caliper not attached to the frame when the bleed nipple is opened. This lets you roll the caliper around whilst tapping it with the handle of a screwdriver to dislodge the last of any trapped air.
Saya di Indonesia. Saat sekarang kaliper Hope V4 saya macet. Sulit mencari kunci untuk buka piston kaliper
I have an old Hope M4 caliper, it doesn't have those blue rear access covers to pop out the pistons. I got one large piston out using the lever and oil, how would I get the others out? Thanks
Hello, i need help, How did you get the pistons out of the part that doesn't have caps?
Where can i buy all the stuff for these brakes i have the same ones i replaced my pads but there sitting super close too my discs
How easy is it to replace one piston ?
Would SRAM butter or red rubber grease be good for this ?
sram or any dot compatible grease is suitable for this application. I use the Ate brand stuff, it is a lot cheaper.
Do you have a video for the master cylinder?.. struggling with the piston removal
I dont I'm afraid. Wheres your struggle?
@@StravaigingMTB I think I’ve cracked it.. it was how to get the piston out
Have you any experience on Hope C2 brakes? Loved your retro fork rebuild video, now I'm rebuilding my C2s however sadly hope dont sell many parts anymore... basically one piston wont come out, and i dont see how twisting it helps. Any advice would be appreciated!
Glad you liked the fork vid, that was a wee while ago now! About to start a full retro rebuild video series as a rebuild a Marin east peak, heres the first vid. th-cam.com/video/kOKAOvq2C1E/w-d-xo.html
As for the stuck piston. Bracing the piston that moves and pumping the level to brake away the stuck one is the traditional way to do it. If you have an air compressor you can also disassemble and drain the caliper and use a blast of compressed air to break it out. It's really hard to remove a stuck piston but most stuck parts benefit from a hit of boiling water from a kettle to help brake any bond. You could try that before using the bracing method perhaps?
@@StravaigingMTB I'll watch the new vid when i get a sec tomorrow, thanks for the link! I saw recently, issue is ive already separated the caliper halves. I could always reassemble and try the brace method. What confuses me is why hope suggest a pin spanner to unscrew the piston, have you ever disassembled a C2? thanks as always!
No I haven't, a pin spanner seems an odd choice...
@@StravaigingMTB certainly does. I'm going to continue to do research as managed to pop the other piston out, but something to appears to have snapped. Just sent you a photo on Instagram 👍 thank you!
@stravaiging mtb .... good video dude but is this the same process for the tech3 E4 brakes
Essentially yes, the bore hole cap tools are specific to models so make sure you have the correct tools and grease.
@@StravaigingMTB dude is the bore hole cap tool "Hope M4 large" compatible for the hope tech3 e4 callipers do you know? Thanks man...
Im afraid I don't, hope tech have a great tech drawing section on their site. Hopefully the exploded diagram will illuminate the issue of which tool for the job. Failing that, LBS.
one questio you use pad retaining pin the one with bolt or the rubber ring? i notice the m4 caliper use the retaining pin with rubber on ring . or we can use both?
I guess either could work, I've even used a pop rivet with teh end turned up with some pliers in an emergency.
Hi there just wondering if ya can give me some advice will this video be the same process for the hope mono m4 caliper think I need to replace my seal slight bubble comes out from 1 of the piston when I press the leave thanx for ya time
Yes it will be and it definitely sounds like the seal has gone if its bubbling, hope it hasn't contaminated your pads and rotor.
@@StravaigingMTB hi thanx for your reply it hasn't contaminated disc and pads as not rode the bike for a while a noticed it was doing it when I was bleeding the brake.so thanx for ya video I'm sure it will help me loads when I replace seals
I did this to my hope t3 e4 and they have absolutely no power anymore there seems to be no air in the system and everything it’s closed and tightened properly can anyone help?
Any chance the pistons can be removed whilst there’s no fluid? Originally I was just working on fixing the cylinders and hoses.. now I’m thinking whilst I’m at it I’ll do the callipers 😬
Not really, you either need to ease them out with fluid or you can use compressed air in a pinch. But in an emergency you can always break the pistons and fit new ones but thats a nuclear option.
thank you so much, but I keep pushing and pushing and the innner pistons (the oppossites frome the ones in the bore caps) won't come off, could you please give me some advise? Thank you so much.
You have two options. The preferred one is to hold the non sticlybone stable with an adapted bleed block or clamp a piece of metal so it cant move. Pump the master cylinder until it gives. The second and least preferred option is to remove the bore cap side piston, then drill a small hole in the stuck piston and crack it with a punch so you can remove the broken parts and then replace it afterwards.
@@StravaigingMTB Thank you so much for all the good advices. I found a piston service block to print in 3d, it was so easy. thank you again.
Glad you got it sorted!
One trick I use to free a stuck piston is to use 3x zip-ties to hold the other 3 (zip tie around the caliper body and across the face of each piston. Then pump the lever. The 3 will strain against the zip ties and usually the 4th breaks free
I have a sticky piston on both my front and rear calipers. Would just a strip and new seals sort it do you think? Or should I buy new pistons just in case?
A fresh seal kit should do it, new pistons if there is signs of wear or damage to the existing ones.
Currently looking online for the bore cap tools. You had three in the video and the list of tools on wiggle and crc is even more confusing. I’m taking it there’s only two needed?
I've collected a few over the years, the number you need will depend on the model and year. The hope website has some good comprehensive tech documents that might help.
@@MrScotttomo82 send me a message I can send you one bore cap tool to print it in 3d (the file and just ask some to 3d print it), they are great I printed about 10 with a fraction of cost from the metal tool.
One thing though, these r exactly as car calipers. So when you open the bleeder on caliper and press the brake lever to pump out air and fluid. Do not release the lever b4 closing the bleed valve.
Because, if u release the lever b4 closing the valve, there might be a chance that you suck air back to caliper.
Sooo... Open bleed valve, press lever, close bleed valve, release lever..
Repeat till bubble free fluid comes out of caliper.
(check reservoar, so it doesn't run empty)
Great vid though BtW
+Rein Langerpaur yup I don't think I'd made that sequence as clear as that. Thanks for the comment.
hi mate, what grease did you put on the pistons before putting them back in? (only skimmed through the video so you may have answered my question already)
It was hunters silicon grease from memory.
@@StravaigingMTB any idea if lithium grease would do the trick?
I wouldn't as the wrong grease can swell the seals or contaminate the brake fluid. If you don't have any just use some of the brake fluid to do the job.
Stravaiging MTB ahhh yeah makes sense, cheers bud 👍🏻
@@iiashx5692 Probably a bit late, but lithium grease will damage rubber/silicon seals or any other plastic components for that matter. Use a grease that says it is designed for plastic use. Something with PTFE(Teflon) should be fine as it can be used inside forks as well and those have the same kind of rubber/silicon seals
what are you thoughts on replacing the bore cap seal? I have the correct piston seals, but the wrong bore cape seal. it would be pretty expensive to get the right one shipped to me, so i'm thinking of re-using the old one.
If it's not misshapen it will be fine 👍🏻
Must have some skinny fingers getting them seals in
i have a leaky piston and the pressure inside the system is not pushing the pistons out, how do i take them out in this case?
Tricky, you can either bleed the system and hope for enough pressure to push the in board pistons out. If thats no good, the nuclear option is to remove the bore hole caps and push the piston out from the inside. Then with a long nail crack and break the remaining in board piston. Its not pretty and you need new seals amd at least a few new pistons.
managed to get them out with a little bit of boge engineering and looks like there is some wear on the calliper housing. hope they work fine with new seals.
@@StravaigingMTB
Heres hoping new seals take up the slack!
Nice video mate only comment is your not supposed to use any silicone product with dot fluid it’s bad for the oil and seals
Best stuff to use for assembly is either fresh brake fluid or brake specific grease
Sram sell their own brake specific assembly grease, but Hunter Silicon is what Hope recommends in thier own literature.
Heres the link to the grease used. I also know of some friends that have used this on Sram brakes with no ill effect, however I usually use fresh dot on sram/avid brakes. www.rushcycles.co.uk/m49b0s478p5865/HOPE-Hunter-Silicon-Lube-for-brake-maintenance
That is an interesting comment. Did you know that hope actually used silicone in their own version of this video?
Can you please make your content inclusive and accessible to everyone by formatting the auto captioning into closed captioning please? it is very hard to enjoy your content relying on only the auto captioning sadly (I'm Profoundly Deaf)
You seriously need to wear gloves! That brake fluid is nasty on the skin.