fixing drill press chuck runout

grinding drill press chuck

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

Use a center punch, cold chisel, or engraver to mark the chuck, arbor, and moving quill. This way you will have an index reference if you disassemble the parts for maintenance. It guarantees precise realignment to match their positions when you machined them. Think "timing chain and timing gears" on an engine.

[@moonolyth]

Exelent point.

[@jorgerodriguez-wv4ul]

Ur very resourceful. I bought a keyless chuck and ran into ur video while looking through stuff for my application. Thank u

[@mikediamond1522]

Great idea. Just a thought. Probably should be using a precision pin in the chuck to check for runout. You got a pretty good reading checking close to the chuck but when you turned it I could see the lower part wobble quite a bit. Those tools are not very straight.

[@zephyrprime]

Finally. A video where someone actually fixed the problem instead of just buying a new chuck for leveling the stupid table (which any idiot could figure out)

[@valeriotiivas4463]

Excellent job bro

[@lawrencebyrne3448]

nice work but the measured run out depends on where the dial indicator is contacting the bit. closer to the chuck would show less run out than further away from the chuck

[@mikekerezsi9672]

Doesn't have to be perfect. Nice work

[@CRILIKk]

Awesome idea I need to try this as mine is 22thou out

[@davids8493]

Super precision results. Setup time had to be long and tedious. 👍👍

[@HDBoyWonder]

Excellent. Brilliant.

[@MotecM]

Nice video!

[@antoniskaloterakis7996]

Great video , i ve seen people doing this on lathe chucks but never thought that this could be done in a drill press chuck .
I have and old (60yo) swedish drill press that haves some runout but i think its from the spindle but i will check the chuck too .

[@Steve-wz5pz]

AHHH!!! GAWD!!!! I CAN SMELL MY MOLARS BUUURNING!!!!!!

[@mattcohen2938]

How much bit capacity on the low end, did you lose? What was the smallest bit before and after that you can use. Great idea, I like it.

[@lkw6640]

Actually, even if you have a metal lathe, it's ALWAYS more precise to grind in place. That's what's done to metal mill spindle bores in order to get the best precision. At least from what I've been told by pro's anyway. Now since there was run out in your spindle, you'd need to regrind it if you ever removed the chuck in order to get that precision again unless you can get it back to exactly the same position when you put it back on.

[@RJLM330]

Just got a 1978 DF-- drill press. Do you have a video that show how to clean the components to spin like yours.

[@jeffreystroman2811]

As I understand it, the three Jaws in the chuck are numbered, I would check to see if somehow they are installed out of order, it is hard to find good help donchaknow?

[@moonolyth]

I'll have to add my 2 cents first, ❤❤❤.The one and only fix verses remove replace. Video out!!!People should re-title there vids!
I would try this out perhaps, but I believe there would be extreme flex in that dimond ball. That would be a long streatch on a laith running 1/4 in. Square bits. With all said, if it worked lucky or not. It's better than before and a real good job as such!!!

[@jimgresham5529]

Just how precise does a round hole gotta be ?

[@sid2131]

Smart

[@jordano9363]

Muito bom

[@douglasthompson2740]

Any thoughts on how to get the jaw travel right when reassembling a large keyless drill chuck such as in a drill press? I have (in pursuit of more accuracy) disassembled and cleaned two of them. Reassembly is pretty much the reverse of disassembly. One large problem I am having is the jaw travel does not completely close before the jaw carrier comes out of its thread. This keeps the jaws from closing to their rated diameter. No problem in retracting until it comes to the stop. I cannot see how that travel can be adjusted as all are threaded and machined parts that only assemble one way. Got me a bit stumped and I find no information anywhere on adjusting the jaws while reassembling. Everyone that shows it on You Tube glosses over that and leaves it with the caveat "just reassemble as you took it apart in reverse" and ends the video. Not much help. Any ideas or experience with these critters? Thanks. Doug

[@garageguy4070]

I haven't taken a chuck jaw apart in a long time. But as I remember it was kind of self explanatory. I dont belive there are any kind of adjustments to make just machined parts. The only thing I would think is parts are mixed up or missing. Possibly the jaws are not in the same slots as they were before disassembling. How small will the chuck close before it falls out.? It almost sounds like the gears are engaged to soon and you need to advance main gear more.

[@douglasthompson2740]

@@garageguy4070 Thanks for the reply. I thought the same about the jaw carrier but have tried it in both extremes of travel. The two I have done are very limited in number of parts so that is not an issue (they are keyless). All sources say there is no particular order to the three jaws and I have verified that by trial. One closes to 3/16ths and works down to just before that when you can feel left handed thread on the jaw carrier disengage. Jaws are a bit loose just prior to that though they still grip fine just seem to be a bit loose with nothing in them. Tried different depths when pressing the top cap down with no solution. Got me stumped. As you note everything is machined so I would think it can only go one way. These are Chinese chucks one is 3/16-5/8 and the other is 1/8- 1/2. I have another for the mill to feel. No makers marks on either so that is no help. Both were working well as far as grip before disassembly and are relatively new and unworn. (4-5 years in a home shop). Thanks again.

[@Milkmans_Son]

@@douglasthompson2740 All sources say there is no particular order to the three jaws in which kind of chuck? If you took a bolt or a threaded rod and sliced it long ways into three equal wedge shaped pieces, how many ways can you put it back together and it still accept a nut?

[@MrMojolinux]

I hope you trammed the drill press table to insure you were grinding 90 degrees square straight up into the drill chuck jaws. That's not going to be easy to do on a cheap drill press.

[@i-_-am-_-g1467]

did you measure runout before you did all this? what was it? it'd be nice to know you went from X thousandths to 3 thousandths

[@garageguy4070]

It was somewhere around 25tho about 4 inches from bottom of chuck.

[@benpress8884]

lmao "mortise taper." lol

[@huntersawyer9337]

Buy a new keyless chuck

[@jefffromjersey52]

Sorry but I am not buying this ... Anyone who works on Precision Machinery like Surface Grinding " tenths" , or Wire EDM, or Milling machine with DRO etc, will agree what was done here makes no sense.
That Cheap woodworking Vise alone would not allow such precision, and the vibrations alone from Griding the surface of 3 Jaws at the same time would not allow it either . There are just way too many variables for this to work . Maybe you got really lucky , its possible.
The Chuck would have to be taken apart and rebuilt first of all . and you can do many things to it like LAPPING the Jaws so they slide in and out with precision. Then measure, and stone the flat sides , reveal any Burrs and take those off. Once each of the 3 Jaws are perfect, you can easily get to .002" of Runout If not then take the jaws out , and precision grind the largest of the three, to make them as even as possible. the Jaws are the key to it..... What you did here OTOH, is almost impossible to Duplicate, and anyone with any Machine Shop experience would agree.
I am almost thinking this is SATIRE .. and if it is , Good one.

[@jordanzurbruegg73]

The theory is sound, you do a version of this with metal lathe chucks.