Jerid did a great job on forging this pattern! If you want to get some in-person instruction with me, checkout my classes available on my website. (Link in the video description)
@@TyrellKnifeworks To bad .... (Wrong wavelengh) You could also do the lighting (on the press) with "normal" lights, because the problem is also the LED light what has close to no IR ! Watch older videos from you, there was NO problem with hot metall (because normal lights are emitting IR)
@@TyrellKnifeworks : PS: I would buy a dirt cheap 500 Watt Halogen flooder with a stand .... (only for the press/oven filming) problem solved i guarante.
Looked like you guys had a blast. I wish I had a shop buddy sometimes. Really liked the way the stars came out. More chaotic rather then uniform which made it seem to flow nicer then a perfect star normally looks. Denis you have to try to make some messy stars in a project. Very cool result.
Jerid now has a newfound respect for what it takes to make the complicated patterns. I like how you politely pointed out is mistakes and how your right eye started twitching when he said that he was happy with the pattern. ;)
It was an awesome experience Nick. My respect for this art has definitely grown after this. Denis is an great teacher and I’m truly happy with out it turned out.
Another great, informative and interesting video Dennis and Jerrid! There was several things I had noticed other that what Dennis had pointed out. For one the handle he had welded on was much longer than most people use. Which can make it much more difficult to control the billet. Anyway thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Jerid did a great job on this one. I will have a follow up video on making explosion pattern where I’ll address sone of the issues and provide helpful fixes. Thanks for watching, Stephen.
I like pattern damascus and all just like the next guy. But I really would love to see just total random damascus. Twisting as it did in my opinion turned out better than original plan.
As usual a great video. Learning a ton from each one of these. Still trying to work up the nerve to do a feather pattern -- chickened out yesterday since all I had for a die was a hatchet (too sharp me thinks!)
@@TyrellKnifeworks Hey Denis, going to make a die for doing feather. What material would you recommend? I have some mild, O1 and D2 here in the shop. Saw that you lost part of your die during the Viking spearhead build. Bummer. Thanks again!
@@ericniefert3499 mild is fine. You’ll be redoing the edge every few cuts but that’s the same with whatever you pick. Make it an inch thick at the base and it won’t flex (like mine did). I have to make a new one.
Turning C's into S's....that's my trick 🤣 keeping things oriented, straight and crisp is the hardest part of getting patterns clean for me. was good to see that in the video and see some things to watch out for. Love the video, as always a great work through👍
For sure that's the hardest part! I think I'm going to make a modification next time so we can get this perfect and use the bottom squaring die and the top flat die. That will keep it from twisting when flattening out the C's into a bar. Thanks for watching, Rodney!
@@the_sharp_carpenter you’d just do it to put a slight flat area then flip it and do the other side and keep flipping so you don’t get uneven distortion. You’d have to switch the flat dies pretty quickly anyway, this just sets the flat area.
Why sometimes when you're drawing a billet out you start at the handle end and move towards the open end, but other times you start at the open end and draw it towards the handle end? Does this affect the pattern at all? If my understanding is correct, you're going to be pushing material away from where the pressure is, so as long as you don't start in the middle, either way should be fine right? Also, I think I've found my new favourite pattern, that looks great!
Yes, either way is fine and it’s good to alternate. If you always do the same end first, the other end cools and doesn’t press as much so you’ll have it thicker there so that’s why we alternate. Make sense, Matt?
Wow that's pretty. I noticed something, your press has a fixed upper and a moving lower. Most are the other way round. Is there an advantage to this approach or is this down to the parts and materials you had available when making the press?
Most people somehow think you need the press with the head on the top but in reality it makes no difference. The other way means you are stooping over to see what's in the press. The way I have it setup I don't need to bend over, the head is at eye level when pressing. Make sense? Thanks for watching.
Yes, my press is almost eye level as well. I’m 6’2” tall so stopping over to look in the forge or in the press is kinda silly. They are much easier to use at eye level. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for answering. I am 6'2" also, so bending over is a chore. I am in the process of planning my shop. It seems like most forges I've seen are about the same height as the anvil, or knuckle level with a loose arm, but I don't want to bend over to look inside. I had thought to set the forge and press at roughly bent elbow level because it would be easy to move the billet back and forth at that height. With it higher, do you find you have more strain on your shoulders/deltoids? I have an old shoulder injury and can't lift my arms away from my body as strongly as used to.
@@RCDinsmore your typical billet will only be a couple pounds at most so moving it around is not a problem. Bending over for the press and forge is much worse, trust me.
When I’m older and have cash to throw at stuff, I wanna buy this sort of equipment and learn how to make knives. Shit would be so cool Hell yeah, you guys even have a _full_ list of everything used. However, what’s the name of the hydraulic press used?
@@jackn2236 Oh yes, that's just the end piece. It did have one weld issue on that one but it will come off anyway. The back side of that one has a bunch of mild steel weld anyway.
Very cool and well done. But to my eye the pattern is too busy, to fragmented. There is no flow, no symetry to the pattern. But it was very well executed and is still beautiful. Thanks for showing us how this is done.
Wait, you mean there's more to making patterned steel than just smashing 1084 and 15n20 together? Sheesh, you have to think and plan, and then hold the billet at the right angle for the press? Lotta work; no wonder real pattern steel blades are expensive.
quand vous faites un damas décoratif, comme celui ci, ça vaudrait quelque chose si on voulait s'en servir ou est ce que c'est "juste" une oeuvre d'art? Ne vous méprenez pas il ne s'agit pas d'une critique, le travail est fou et le résultat magnifique, mais je me demandais si le résultat esthétique ne se faisait pas au détriment des qualités d'utilisation d'un couteau en damas traditionnel.
Je ne suis pas vraiment sûr de ce que vous demandez. Le motif n'affecte pas la résistance et la durabilité de l'acier, si c'est ce que vous voulez dire. Ces lames à motifs coûtent également beaucoup plus cher, pour une bonne raison. Merci d'avoir regardé.
@@TyrellKnifeworks que ces lames coûtent plus chère je le comprend sans problème vue le travail nécessaire. Mais oui, je me demandais si l'alternance acier dur acier mou ne se faisant plus sur l'épaisseur de lame mais sur sa longueur, ça risquait de poser des problèmes dans la durée.
@@arnaudcarpentier7591 Il n'y a pas d'acier "doux" dans cette billette. Tout est en acier à haute teneur en carbone. Les deux aciers sont le 1084 et le 15n20. Ce dernier n'est vraiment que de l'acier 1080 avec 2% de nickel ajouté, mais c'est fondamentalement le même acier.
Jerid did a great job on forging this pattern! If you want to get some in-person instruction with me, checkout my classes available on my website. (Link in the video description)
Hi there !
Does the IR Filter not work ?
Greets Tom
@@TomKappeln this footage was taken before. But on recent filming, it didn’t seem to make much difference.
@@TyrellKnifeworks To bad .... (Wrong wavelengh)
You could also do the lighting (on the press) with "normal" lights, because the problem is also the LED light what has close to no IR !
Watch older videos from you, there was NO problem with hot metall (because normal lights are emitting IR)
@@TyrellKnifeworks : PS: I would buy a dirt cheap 500 Watt Halogen flooder with a stand .... (only for the press/oven filming) problem solved i guarante.
@@TomKappeln that’s also with a totally different camera. A GoPro. While the lighting might have been better, the video quality sucked.
Looked like you guys had a blast. I wish I had a shop buddy sometimes. Really liked the way the stars came out. More chaotic rather then uniform which made it seem to flow nicer then a perfect star normally looks. Denis you have to try to make some messy stars in a project. Very cool result.
Jerid did an awesome job on this one. Consider he’s only done 1 or 2 other Damascus or layered projects, this is a huge leap. Thanks for watching
great vid! I'm inspired to make some star damascus!!
I’m glad I could inspire you, Daniel! Thanks for watching.
Jerid now has a newfound respect for what it takes to make the complicated patterns. I like how you politely pointed out is mistakes and how your right eye started twitching when he said that he was happy with the pattern. ;)
Haha, I think it turned out pretty great actually. Not exactly symmetrical, but still very cool. Thanks for watching, Nick
It was an awesome experience Nick. My respect for this art has definitely grown after this. Denis is an great teacher and I’m truly happy with out it turned out.
Great job on the billet Jerid! Super cool to see you guys having fun working together 👊
Hey, Brent! I was a really fun build and Jerid managed to get a really nice billet out of it. Let's see what he makes with it now! 🧐
@@TyrellKnifeworks whatever he decides to do it will be a stunner!
Thank you Brent! It’s always a blast!
OMG, he nailed the intro, after some funny bloopers! 😅😅😅 Anyway, great work there! Looking forward to see more colaboration videos!
Stay tuned, this coming Triple-T is another collab with an amazing smith! Thanks for watching, Paul.
Yes he did.
Nice work 👏 👌
Thanks for checking out this episode, Guillermo!
excellent ...must say that was a surprise when I didnt see Denis but great job on the damascus definitely not a screw up and the welds are fantastic.
Ha, it was a Jerid takeover today! He did great though.. and the outtakes are my favorite part. 🤣
Thank you! It was blast!
I love the graphics on the side of the screen
Thanks for checking out this build!
Great looking pattern!!
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
Thanks for following this series!
@@TyrellKnifeworks You're welcome!
Great video I'm trying cable damascus for the first time right now
Ah, that can be a tough one, good luck! Thanks for watching.
Another great, informative and interesting video Dennis and Jerrid! There was several things I had noticed other that what Dennis had pointed out. For one the handle he had welded on was much longer than most people use. Which can make it much more difficult to control the billet. Anyway thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Jerid did a great job on this one. I will have a follow up video on making explosion pattern where I’ll address sone of the issues and provide helpful fixes. Thanks for watching, Stephen.
That's stunning.
Jerid did a great job on it! Thanks for watching.
Thanks!
Amazing pattern
Thanks for checking it out! Jerid did a great job on this one.
I like pattern damascus and all just like the next guy. But I really would love to see just total random damascus. Twisting as it did in my opinion turned out better than original plan.
Sure, but random damascus is kinda plain and easy to do. Doesn't seem like an interesting video. Thanks for watching, Eric.
Twisted Damascus is my favorite also
As usual a great video. Learning a ton from each one of these. Still trying to work up the nerve to do a feather pattern -- chickened out yesterday since all I had for a die was a hatchet (too sharp me thinks!)
Yeah, that’s too sharp, it won’t drag down the feather enough. Give it a try though! Thanks for watching, Eric
@@TyrellKnifeworks Hey Denis, going to make a die for doing feather. What material would you recommend? I have some mild, O1 and D2 here in the shop. Saw that you lost part of your die during the Viking spearhead build. Bummer. Thanks again!
@@ericniefert3499 mild is fine. You’ll be redoing the edge every few cuts but that’s the same with whatever you pick. Make it an inch thick at the base and it won’t flex (like mine did). I have to make a new one.
Turning C's into S's....that's my trick 🤣 keeping things oriented, straight and crisp is the hardest part of getting patterns clean for me. was good to see that in the video and see some things to watch out for. Love the video, as always a great work through👍
For sure that's the hardest part! I think I'm going to make a modification next time so we can get this perfect and use the bottom squaring die and the top flat die. That will keep it from twisting when flattening out the C's into a bar. Thanks for watching, Rodney!
@@TyrellKnifeworks that's a good idea, would you add the top dies after to get the resquare on the top?
@@the_sharp_carpenter No, just flip the billet over. That way you can do it in one heat. 😉
@@TyrellKnifeworks no issues with it just flattening off the top before the bottom gets resquared?
@@the_sharp_carpenter you’d just do it to put a slight flat area then flip it and do the other side and keep flipping so you don’t get uneven distortion. You’d have to switch the flat dies pretty quickly anyway, this just sets the flat area.
Why sometimes when you're drawing a billet out you start at the handle end and move towards the open end, but other times you start at the open end and draw it towards the handle end?
Does this affect the pattern at all? If my understanding is correct, you're going to be pushing material away from where the pressure is, so as long as you don't start in the middle, either way should be fine right?
Also, I think I've found my new favourite pattern, that looks great!
Yes, either way is fine and it’s good to alternate. If you always do the same end first, the other end cools and doesn’t press as much so you’ll have it thicker there so that’s why we alternate. Make sense, Matt?
Wow that's pretty. I noticed something, your press has a fixed upper and a moving lower. Most are the other way round. Is there an advantage to this approach or is this down to the parts and materials you had available when making the press?
Most people somehow think you need the press with the head on the top but in reality it makes no difference. The other way means you are stooping over to see what's in the press. The way I have it setup I don't need to bend over, the head is at eye level when pressing. Make sense? Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Yes that makes sense thanks for the explanation and video.
Nice job very pretty
Jerid did a great job on this one! Thanks for watching, Barry
Damn that’s awesome guys
Thanks, Brigham! It was a fun few forging sessions!
Thanks Brigham, we had a blast! I learned so much.
Why do you have your forge at face level? Do you have your press at a similar height? If so, why? If not what height do you have it at? Thanks
Yes, my press is almost eye level as well. I’m 6’2” tall so stopping over to look in the forge or in the press is kinda silly. They are much easier to use at eye level. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for answering. I am 6'2" also, so bending over is a chore. I am in the process of planning my shop. It seems like most forges I've seen are about the same height as the anvil, or knuckle level with a loose arm, but I don't want to bend over to look inside. I had thought to set the forge and press at roughly bent elbow level because it would be easy to move the billet back and forth at that height. With it higher, do you find you have more strain on your shoulders/deltoids? I have an old shoulder injury and can't lift my arms away from my body as strongly as used to.
@@RCDinsmore your typical billet will only be a couple pounds at most so moving it around is not a problem. Bending over for the press and forge is much worse, trust me.
good job
Thanks for taking a look!
Where do you get the graphics from
Those are created in a graphics program by hand. Thanks for watching!
When I’m older and have cash to throw at stuff, I wanna buy this sort of equipment and learn how to make knives. Shit would be so cool
Hell yeah, you guys even have a _full_ list of everything used. However, what’s the name of the hydraulic press used?
It’s a very fun hobby. Give it a try some time. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks oh it absolutely looks like such, and you know imma try, haha
Hope there are no cracks down the road.
All the welds look great on this one. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Just wondering, if the welds are all good then what is that on the left side at 14:52? Looks like an unwelded seam to me...
@@jackn2236 Oh yes, that's just the end piece. It did have one weld issue on that one but it will come off anyway. The back side of that one has a bunch of mild steel weld anyway.
@@TyrellKnifeworks That's good to hear, as the old saying goes "If you don't know then ask."
Awesome. Call it lightening burst lol
Jerid did a great job on this one. Thanks for watching, Joshua.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yes he did. Big fan of your channel. My kids and I watch your videos every Saturday.
Very cool and well done. But to my eye the pattern is too busy, to fragmented. There is no flow, no symetry to the pattern. But it was very well executed and is still beautiful. Thanks for showing us how this is done.
You're seeing it only ground to 120. Once it's sanded to 1000 grit it will look much cleaner. Thanks for watching.
Salam sahabat, anda sangat ahli membuat baja Damaskus, aku sangat menggemari anda
Terima kasih telah melihatnya!
Perfeito ! Parabéns.
Obrigado por assistir, Jesse!
I would rather call it sea of chaos pattern. But it looks really good, good job.
Thanks for taking a look, Lucas.
Wow Denis did you travel back in time?! 😂
Yup, we sure did! 😜. Thanks for watching, Armen.
عمل رائع
شكرا لكم لإلقاء نظرة!
Triple-T #109
Oops... thanks, I fixed it.
I would love a sword made out of that pattern!
That’s a lot of mosaic! It would look very cool indeed.
👍👍👍👍👍
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Wait, you mean there's more to making patterned steel than just smashing 1084 and 15n20 together? Sheesh, you have to think and plan, and then hold the billet at the right angle for the press? Lotta work; no wonder real pattern steel blades are expensive.
Haha, you’ll find out first hand in Jan! Thanks for watching
Today Denis is gonna try to... Jesus. 😂😂
Jerid did all the hard work... I was just the voice in his head. 😜. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks you betcha! 😆
Lol. The camera is a beast!
класс
Спасибо за просмотр!
quand vous faites un damas décoratif, comme celui ci, ça vaudrait quelque chose si on voulait s'en servir ou est ce que c'est "juste" une oeuvre d'art? Ne vous méprenez pas il ne s'agit pas d'une critique, le travail est fou et le résultat magnifique, mais je me demandais si le résultat esthétique ne se faisait pas au détriment des qualités d'utilisation d'un couteau en damas traditionnel.
Je ne suis pas vraiment sûr de ce que vous demandez. Le motif n'affecte pas la résistance et la durabilité de l'acier, si c'est ce que vous voulez dire. Ces lames à motifs coûtent également beaucoup plus cher, pour une bonne raison. Merci d'avoir regardé.
@@TyrellKnifeworks que ces lames coûtent plus chère je le comprend sans problème vue le travail nécessaire. Mais oui, je me demandais si l'alternance acier dur acier mou ne se faisant plus sur l'épaisseur de lame mais sur sa longueur, ça risquait de poser des problèmes dans la durée.
@@arnaudcarpentier7591 Il n'y a pas d'acier "doux" dans cette billette. Tout est en acier à haute teneur en carbone. Les deux aciers sont le 1084 et le 15n20. Ce dernier n'est vraiment que de l'acier 1080 avec 2% de nickel ajouté, mais c'est fondamentalement le même acier.
😃 ᑭᖇOᗰOᔕᗰ
I'm not sure what that comment means, but thanks for watching.