One of the best. I learn a lot from your articulate explanations. I am not planning to forge, but very interested in forging process & the why behind it. Just food for brain! Thank you & happy I bump in to your channel. 👍
I really love that diamond latter Damascus. I actually tried searching specifically for this because I hadn’t heard of it before but thought it would be a good idea.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Awesome. Don't be afraid to get a little technical, people who don't want it can always skip ahead. Recommending you to my folks, so much to learn. God bless cugino
Yes, I've done "fossil" damascus of those end cuts before. My 100k giveaway knife was made from a bunch of off-cuts of my previous projects. I do those on occasion and its cool because they have a part of all previous builds.
You can mill in the grooves, but it takes WAY longer and it’s hard on cutters. You’re cutting through forge scale. Plus you’d need to use a ball endmill and those are pricier. It’s possible though and if you had a one-off complicated pattern it’s something to consider. Thanks for watching, Kieran.
I was wondering about this myself. Is the reason you want to use the ball end mill because the sharp flat edge left by the cut of a regular bit be of concern for layer separation or cold shuts? I was thinking if not, the result would be reeeeaaaally tight bands (which could be cool looking), followed by broader patterns after flattening the billet. If anyone has successfully done so already, I’d be interested in seeing the results.
great explanations as to what and why, thanks for another perfect video. wondering as to how many hours this took and can you estimate how many hours this would take using coal and a hammer?
This took: 1 hour of prep, 4 forging sessions of 2 hours each, 2 hours total of grinding. So about 10 hours to create this pattern (with a hydraulic press). I think if you tried this with a hand hammer, it would easily be 10x that and you'd have to start with at least twice as much steel because you'd lose that due to scale. Not a fun process by hand. Thanks for watching, Gene.
It depends on your budget. If you're just starting out and unsure if this is really going to be a big hobby for you, I would suggest you start out with a 2/42. If you know this is something you really want to do, get a real 2x72 grinder. For that, I would divide it into 2... build it yourself from a kit, which I would recommend the Revolution grinder from housemade.us. That kit is around $1k. If you want to buy a complete grinder without having to weld it together, buy a Brodbeck from brodbeckironworks.com/. They run about $2700. I hope that helps.
That is from a guy in Oklahoma, David Barfield. Email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail and I’ll give you his phone number. He doesn’t do social media or email. Thanks for watching.
Hi it's a little off topic from your video, but im looking for some advice. I'm looking to get my first blacksmithing hammer, and I need to know what weight. I've been smithing for a few year and mostly make damascus and damascus knives, I currently use a 3lb crosspeen from the hardware store.
@@pandaparsonage1411 I've thought about it and I sorta did that with my 3lb. I finally have a little extra money and want to see if a forged hammer is worth the hype
Looks sweet. I went to the Auckland blade show in New Zealand over the weekend and bought a little Turkish twist damascus. Hoping to make a Sasaki with it.
Thanks for the awesome content as always. I have a question too. After the final restack, your layers should be against the sides of the billet or against the edge? We always see you pressing the layers against each other and I have the impression that the layers end up on the thinner side of the billet, that will be the edge, but I think that I'm wrong, because the pattern wouldn't be as impressive if that was the case
Since he's showing the pattern of the Damascus from the top side of the billet by grinding in the ladder pattern, there's no need to re-square the billet using a diamond shaped die to bring the stacked edges of the billet to the "top" of the billet (or the flat side of the knife).
Yes, all the layers are visible on the edges of the billet. That’s why we are cutting into it to bring layers to the surface on the flat parts. Make sense? Thanks for watching, Rafael.
Thanks for you content, always such a pleasure watching. I've encountered just a few videos on "3d printed mosaic damascus" and wonder if you know about this stuff and what your thoughts on it might be :) Cheers
Is it possible to make a form/template for the press and press a knife into shape so you have less to grind? If you have a core would not be easy to get centered and the pattern would be different?
No, that’s not really practical. Hydraulic presses do not do well on thin stock. It’s best to use a bandsaw to remove material to reduce what you have to grind. Thanks for watching.
You can't do a copper mosaic. That would mean the copper was going through the blade instead of a layer down the side. It would be very weak. You could do a mosaic over a copper layer, but then you're grinding away most of your mosaic and those are hard to produce and costly so its not really a good idea. Thanks for watching!
Here's a video I did on the rolling mill. David Barfield doesn't really do social media or email so if you want his number, email me and I'll give it to you. Email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail. Thanks for watching, Jonathan.
Interesting pattern. Haven't seen this one before actually. But I have two questions. I have seen people on other channels taking a lot of effort to grind out the welds, but I haven't seen you doing it. Is there a reason you don't have to or are you just not showing it? And the second one is about the grooves. When you painted them on the side of the biller with a marker, you said that they should be alternating and not on top of each other. I can see the logic for straight lines, but as these ones are diagonally, they are gonna meet somewhere anyway and it shouldn't actually matter right?
I talk about welds in the first part (Triple-T #100). 1) I only weld the end on the first stack, not the sides. 2) for restacks I either tig the sides (which fuses them with no filler metal) or suggest people mig then grind it flat. Then the weld will come off as scale. I rarely have to grind out weld this way. As for the pattern, yes some of it will overlap but the majority of the lines will not. Thanks for watching, Julian!
Sorry for commenting on an old video, but I missed it in the past. The diamond pattern came out awesome! I did have one question/comment. You mentioned that you always have to remove material when doing a pattern. I use a die for both a raindrop and a ladder pattern, but instead of grinding down to a smooth surface, I've been using the roller press to squeeze the impressions back into the steel. (I stop when there are no more marks and I've reached the desired thickness.) The result is always a great pattern and I end up with a much longer billet. I remember a few years back, someone else mentioning that you had to grind after pressing in the pattern; am I missing something?
If you grind in grooves, you need to press the billet flat again to bring the layers to the top. If you press them in, you then need to grind off the high spots. You’ll still get a pattern if you don’t but it will be MUCH less striking than if you did and you’re really just ending up with a modified random pattern. Think about it, you’re just pushing the layers down but then pushing it back together if you don’t grind it off. Ladder, raindrop, chevron, diamond, they are all “subtractive” pattern where you are removing some material so that you expose layers at the surface. Make sense? Thanks for watching.
Hey Denis, Any tips on cooling the billet before restack? Do i need to anneal it every time? It would be cool to like restack many times in one session without spending tons of time waiting for it to anneal or cool. I feel like if I were to anneal it I would need to wait until the next day to restack since I use pearlite for annealing (or I could use my forge but it's still a few hours before it cools down). If you have any tips I'd love to hear them!
You don’t need to anneal it unless you have to cut it with a saw. If you cut it up with an angle grinder or hot cut off saw then it just needs to cool enough to handle it. You need to grind the mating sides so it does need to go to room temperature but that only takes 15-20 minutes. Hope that helps.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yes that does help. I now understand why you were annealing it (you cut with your bandsaw). Currently making a billet and I up to around 50 layers, finding some delaminations when cleaning between restack 😑 I've grinded them all out but likely lost like almost 7 or 8 layers highball estimate. (I started with 10 and now cut into 5) about to stack and weld. Wish me luck!
I haven't but I know others like Baker Forge use that. You need a really big press or a power hammer with those dies to make that work. Tough on a 30t press. Thanks for watching.
That’s not so easy and it doesn’t give you as nice of a pattern. Remember anything in a canister you can see while forging so it’s a bit of a mystery until you open it. Thanks for watching
Twisting a billet really really changes the pattern a lot. You kinda lose much of what you did before the twist and it doesn't really show that much. Thanks for watching.
I assume that your friend Rick Hall is the one who is from Calgary Alberta. I'm a farrier in that area and have bought lots of his tools. Good guy! Thanks for the amazingly informative video! Would love to get into Damascus when I eventually have time to build a press.
Ever since I subscribed to your channel I've noticed a few videos from other forgeworkers in the suggestions. They're making "Damascus" from bike chains, nuts and bolts, fishhooks etc. It all sounds a bit gimmicky.
Bike chain is pretty popular actually. Not my thing though. It’s too random and IMO rarely looks that impressive. I prefer having much more control of the pattern. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yep, I’m saving it though, put to work what you said in this video and things are definitely looking better! Thanks for the content!
First, I am not a knife maker, I also have limited metal working experience. BUT, when I saw you using the milling rollers it made me wonder about using a knurling die on the billet, and then forging out the blade, I assume a knurling die would not get a deep enough cut the give any real pattern, though
The knurling roller would be way too shallow. They only go about .020" at most into the material. You need about 5x that depth to get a real pattern. You wouldn't get much of a pattern just grinding 0.020" into the billet. There are other dies for presses and rollers for rolling mills that would impart patterns like that. Thanks for watching.
Halo sobat boleh kah aku pesan baja Damaskus tapi hanya berbentuk plat aja nanti di sini baru aku bentuk sendiri, kalau boleh berapa harga nya dalam bentuk Rp (Rupiah)
Saya tidak melakukan pesanan khusus. Yang ini akan dijual di situs web saya minggu depan, Anda dapat memeriksanya di sana. Terima kasih telah menonton.
The 15n20 is thinner so I don’t want it on the outside. The scale lost on the outside will balance out and you’ll never notice it when restacked. Thanks for watching.
15n20 is a decent steel in its own right. Stainless Damascus is quite difficult to make. You can open-weld stainless steel so it’s much more challenging. Thanks for watching.
J'aurai pas cru qu'un damas de cuivre soit plus complexe, car je pensais naïvement que le seul problème d'un damas de cuivre est la gestion de la température, quand sur un damas comme celui ci, il y a beaucoup plus d'étapes d'assemblage, de soudures électriques comme de forge, de pliages, de martelage ...
C'est encore l'une des techniques de damas les plus simples. Le damas de cuivre combine un damas ordinaire avec du cuivre, c'est donc un peu plus complexe. Merci d'avoir regardé!
You don't always have to remove something. Press some grooves into one side of a billet, cut it in half, stack them as the jacket of a San mai with the grooved sides out and the flat side in. No loss ladder 😉.
@@TyrellKnifeworks if you retain both halves and use them as the the two jacket pieces, you don't remove anything. At least not if you use a hot cut, like a real smith 😉
@@samziegler4957 my point is that you can’t accomplish this pattern with removing material. You happen to using that removed material in your example, but it’s still removed.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I'm still confused. Say you took three billets. Forged ridges in one side of two of the billets. Assembled the three into a San mai with the ridges facing outside and forge the lot flat. What is being removed?
Yes, exactly right. I don’t want to weld them, I wanted to fuse them. Welding introduces mild steel into the billet. I just want an air-tight seal to keep out oxygen. Thanks for watching, Alan.
It gives me the creeps watching you work around spinning, cutting, and sanding tools while wearing your ring. I understand people are very emotionally attached to their rings but it is unsafe to wear ANY rings or hanging neckware around those tools. If you make it a habit of taking it off first thing when you enter your shop and put IN THE SAME PLACE every time it become a habit and you will not forget it.
I’ve never had any issues with my ring, never touched it against anything. I’ll keep wearing it. What I mostly do is grinding and the ring is not an issue. Thanks for watching.
@TyrellKnifeworks yes, it means a type of crucible steel first produced over two thousand years ago from an iron ore of specific composition and which when the steel was subjected to a process of repeated heat treatments gave rise to bandings of differing compositions. This completely different to pattern welded steel. .
@@HighWealder Look, you don’t need to “educate” me on what Wootz is. I’m an ABS Journeyman Bladesmith. We bladesmiths don’t correct each other on these terms because it’s.. well, pretentious. We know what it means and if we wanted to refer to traditional Damascus we’d say Wootz. Would you correct a master Bladesmith to his face… no. So why do it here on the internet? I get you’re trying to show me you know the difference but it just comes off really pretentious.
Thumbs up for using "contiguous" correctly. Such a fun word!
Thanks for watching!
One of the best. I learn a lot from your articulate explanations. I am not planning to forge, but very interested in forging process & the why behind it. Just food for brain! Thank you & happy I bump in to your channel. 👍
Thanks for finding and following the channel! 👍
Thank you! From I and every video you make I find something new for me as take way. You are really a great teacher!
Thanks so much, Gerald! I'm glad the videos are helful!
watching your videos makes me want to be in the shop. thanks for the inspiration Dennis!
I’m happy to inspire you! Thanks for watching, Daniel.
Learning more by the day. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for checking it out, JP!
Great video Dennis, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for taking a look, brother!
Another very informative video Denis!
Thanks for watching, Jeff!
ive watched this video at least 4 times since it was put out and I learn something everytime
Thanks, buddy! I have a new build coming soon with a new pattern/technique you won’t want to miss!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Im in the middle of a billet right now... should i wait for it and do it?
@@BrighamKindell This new pattern isn't based on ladder. It's a plug-welded billet. 😉
@@TyrellKnifeworks cant wait man!
Wow that’s awesome. Great video brother! 👍
Thanks for checking it out, Michael!
Thanks again for more great info Dennis!
Thanks for watching, Stephen!
One of these weekends!
Come on over!
Thanks for explaining the ladder pattern
Now I have a better understanding of how it works 👍👍👍👍👍 great video
I’m glad it helped, Joe! Thanks for watching
awesome series
Thanks for following the series, Greg!
I really love that diamond latter Damascus. I actually tried searching specifically for this because I hadn’t heard of it before but thought it would be a good idea.
Thanks for checking it out!
These videos are always entertaining, informative, and useful. Never ever ever change
Thanks so much for following along! Lots more to come. 👍🏻
@@TyrellKnifeworks Awesome. Don't be afraid to get a little technical, people who don't want it can always skip ahead.
Recommending you to my folks, so much to learn. God bless cugino
@@THESLlCK Don't worry, they get much more technical as we progress to the more complicated patterns. 😜
Very cool pattern!!! Awesome series
Thanks for watching, Joseph!
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
Thanks for taking a look!
So pretty and so cool!!!
Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Thanks for watching, Chris!
Always enjoy your videos. Very informative.
Thanks for following the series, Stephen!
Great job, looking forward to next video.
Thanks for tuning in!
I wonder what would happen if you do a combo ladder pattern and rain drop to form multiple Yin and Yang ☯️ along the knife .....just saying 😬
@@giish485 that wouldn’t give you a ying-Yang. You’d just have two sets of concentric circles.
Awesome instructional Denis! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, Bjorn!
@@TyrellKnifeworks very welcome. I always try and stay up-to-date. I really appreciate the info you share.
Very kind of you to share your processes! As always, picked up some techniques.
I’m glad you learned something new, Bryson! 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks Learned more watching it the third time! Helps to have worked in your shop and having your guidance.
@@brysonalden5414 It was great to have you in the shop! Thanks for coming!
Great video, Denis! Your videos are so informative and educational. This is definitely a great series! Thanks for sharing brother! 😎👍🏻🔨🔥🗡️
Thanks for following the series, Bob!
Я не сколько не понимаю в кузнечном деле, но постоянно смотрю ваши видео, горящая сталь и то что из неё получается, просто завораживают👍👍
Большое спасибо за просмотр!
Like that pattern! Think I might have to do that in the future. Thanks man!
I'm glad it could inspire you, brother! Thanks for watching!
I like your videos SO MUCH
Thank you!
Thanks so much for watching!
Didn't even know I was interested, until I happened upon this channel...
I'm glad to have sparked your interest, Jovan! Thanks for watching.
Man that forge is looking good.
Thanks, it’s working very well! 👍
That pattern turned out great !!! Very good video !!!!
Thanks for following this series! ❤️
Amazing teaching stile thankyou...
Thanks so much, Johan! Stay tuned for more complex pattern development! 👍🏻
are there any uses foor all the ends that you cut off when squaring up
Yes, I've done "fossil" damascus of those end cuts before. My 100k giveaway knife was made from a bunch of off-cuts of my previous projects. I do those on occasion and its cool because they have a part of all previous builds.
How do you feel about milling in the grooves? About the depth of the grinding wheel did
You can mill in the grooves, but it takes WAY longer and it’s hard on cutters. You’re cutting through forge scale. Plus you’d need to use a ball endmill and those are pricier. It’s possible though and if you had a one-off complicated pattern it’s something to consider. Thanks for watching, Kieran.
I was wondering about this myself. Is the reason you want to use the ball end mill because the sharp flat edge left by the cut of a regular bit be of concern for layer separation or cold shuts? I was thinking if not, the result would be reeeeaaaally tight bands (which could be cool looking), followed by broader patterns after flattening the billet. If anyone has successfully done so already, I’d be interested in seeing the results.
Great video,nice work🔥🔨🗡
Thanks for following along, Jocke!
@@TyrellKnifeworks
Allways a pleasure👌🏻
you should call that tyrells deck plate Damascus haha!! looks good brother
Thanks for checking out this video!
Great idea, thank ❤
I'm glad it was helpful to you! Thanks for watching.
great explanations as to what and why, thanks for another perfect video. wondering as to how many hours this took and can you estimate how many hours this would take using coal and a hammer?
This took: 1 hour of prep, 4 forging sessions of 2 hours each, 2 hours total of grinding. So about 10 hours to create this pattern (with a hydraulic press). I think if you tried this with a hand hammer, it would easily be 10x that and you'd have to start with at least twice as much steel because you'd lose that due to scale. Not a fun process by hand. Thanks for watching, Gene.
Hi Tyrell! What belt sander would you recommend for starting smiths?
It depends on your budget. If you're just starting out and unsure if this is really going to be a big hobby for you, I would suggest you start out with a 2/42. If you know this is something you really want to do, get a real 2x72 grinder. For that, I would divide it into 2... build it yourself from a kit, which I would recommend the Revolution grinder from housemade.us. That kit is around $1k. If you want to buy a complete grinder without having to weld it together, buy a Brodbeck from brodbeckironworks.com/. They run about $2700. I hope that helps.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thank you so much! Love your videos!
Love the content. Need to up my knife making game
Thanks for following the series, Chris!
Where did you purchase the rolling mill from please
That is from a guy in Oklahoma, David Barfield. Email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail and I’ll give you his phone number. He doesn’t do social media or email. Thanks for watching.
i have some 150 layer bar left over i need to try that cross hatched ladder out on
Give it a try, it can look pretty cool. 👍
Hi it's a little off topic from your video, but im looking for some advice. I'm looking to get my first blacksmithing hammer, and I need to know what weight. I've been smithing for a few year and mostly make damascus and damascus knives, I currently use a 3lb crosspeen from the hardware store.
I just get 4 pound sledge and grind them down to whatever shape I need nice and cheap
@@pandaparsonage1411 I've thought about it and I sorta did that with my 3lb. I finally have a little extra money and want to see if a forged hammer is worth the hype
My rounding hammer is 2.5 lbs. I find that a good weight. Thanks for watching.
Looks sweet. I went to the Auckland blade show in New Zealand over the weekend and bought a little Turkish twist damascus. Hoping to make a Sasaki with it.
I’ll be doing a Turkish twist soon! This week will be the raindrop. Thanks for watching!
Very nice!
Thanks for taking a look!
Thank you for the metric subtitles:) Imperial system is really confusing
Yes, we agree it’s confusing. 😜. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the awesome content as always.
I have a question too. After the final restack, your layers should be against the sides of the billet or against the edge?
We always see you pressing the layers against each other and I have the impression that the layers end up on the thinner side of the billet, that will be the edge, but I think that I'm wrong, because the pattern wouldn't be as impressive if that was the case
Since he's showing the pattern of the Damascus from the top side of the billet by grinding in the ladder pattern, there's no need to re-square the billet using a diamond shaped die to bring the stacked edges of the billet to the "top" of the billet (or the flat side of the knife).
Yes, all the layers are visible on the edges of the billet. That’s why we are cutting into it to bring layers to the surface on the flat parts. Make sense? Thanks for watching, Rafael.
@@TyrellKnifeworks that actually makes a lot of sense, thanks man.
Thanks for you content, always such a pleasure watching. I've encountered just a few videos on "3d printed mosaic damascus" and wonder if you know about this stuff and what your thoughts on it might be :) Cheers
If you mean a 3D printed mold used to hold powder, I’ve certainly heard of that. I may do it in a future episode. Thanks for watching
Is it possible to make a form/template for the press and press a knife into shape so you have less to grind?
If you have a core would not be easy to get centered and the pattern would be different?
No, that’s not really practical. Hydraulic presses do not do well on thin stock. It’s best to use a bandsaw to remove material to reduce what you have to grind. Thanks for watching.
Peccato che sono in Italia,sennò prendevo lezioni da te molto volentieri!
Il tuo canale è molto istruttivo,lo seguo con piacere😁
Grazie mille per seguire il canale!
What was the thickness of the bars before stacking?
The 1084 was 1/8" and the 15n20 was 3/32". Thanks for watching, Mike!
Always excited for you videos
Buddy I wish that can you make a copper mosiac damascus chopper
Please 😁
You can't do a copper mosaic. That would mean the copper was going through the blade instead of a layer down the side. It would be very weak. You could do a mosaic over a copper layer, but then you're grinding away most of your mosaic and those are hard to produce and costly so its not really a good idea. Thanks for watching!
Solid info. Like the cross hatch. But I gotta know, where did you get that rolling mill?!?! I need one of those in my life!
Here's a video I did on the rolling mill. David Barfield doesn't really do social media or email so if you want his number, email me and I'll give it to you. Email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail. Thanks for watching, Jonathan.
Ia this what is also sometimes called "pyramid damast"?
I’ve never heard it called that. I’ve heard Diamond, Diamond-back, criss-cross and a few other names though. Thanks for watching.
Have you ever did rain drops in a pattern like latter or any other pattern.
I’ve never combined raindrop and ladder personally but I’ve seen it done by others. Thanks for watching
Interesting pattern. Haven't seen this one before actually.
But I have two questions. I have seen people on other channels taking a lot of effort to grind out the welds, but I haven't seen you doing it. Is there a reason you don't have to or are you just not showing it?
And the second one is about the grooves. When you painted them on the side of the biller with a marker, you said that they should be alternating and not on top of each other. I can see the logic for straight lines, but as these ones are diagonally, they are gonna meet somewhere anyway and it shouldn't actually matter right?
I talk about welds in the first part (Triple-T #100). 1) I only weld the end on the first stack, not the sides. 2) for restacks I either tig the sides (which fuses them with no filler metal) or suggest people mig then grind it flat. Then the weld will come off as scale. I rarely have to grind out weld this way. As for the pattern, yes some of it will overlap but the majority of the lines will not. Thanks for watching, Julian!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Ah, guess I go and watch that part as well then. ;)
Thanks for answering anyways
What steel do you use for making your press dies?
Just mild steel. It’s not like a power hammer that has striking force, you don’t need h13 or anything like that.
Sorry for commenting on an old video, but I missed it in the past. The diamond pattern came out awesome! I did have one question/comment. You mentioned that you always have to remove material when doing a pattern. I use a die for both a raindrop and a ladder pattern, but instead of grinding down to a smooth surface, I've been using the roller press to squeeze the impressions back into the steel. (I stop when there are no more marks and I've reached the desired thickness.) The result is always a great pattern and I end up with a much longer billet. I remember a few years back, someone else mentioning that you had to grind after pressing in the pattern; am I missing something?
If you grind in grooves, you need to press the billet flat again to bring the layers to the top. If you press them in, you then need to grind off the high spots. You’ll still get a pattern if you don’t but it will be MUCH less striking than if you did and you’re really just ending up with a modified random pattern. Think about it, you’re just pushing the layers down but then pushing it back together if you don’t grind it off. Ladder, raindrop, chevron, diamond, they are all “subtractive” pattern where you are removing some material so that you expose layers at the surface. Make sense? Thanks for watching.
Well now I’m going to have to do a compare and contrast with the same stacked billet. (I wish I had a way to send you a photo or two.)
@tomdoyle5579 if you want to send a photo, just email to tyrellknifeworks at gmail.
Hey Denis, Any tips on cooling the billet before restack? Do i need to anneal it every time? It would be cool to like restack many times in one session without spending tons of time waiting for it to anneal or cool. I feel like if I were to anneal it I would need to wait until the next day to restack since I use pearlite for annealing (or I could use my forge but it's still a few hours before it cools down). If you have any tips I'd love to hear them!
You don’t need to anneal it unless you have to cut it with a saw. If you cut it up with an angle grinder or hot cut off saw then it just needs to cool enough to handle it. You need to grind the mating sides so it does need to go to room temperature but that only takes 15-20 minutes. Hope that helps.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yes that does help. I now understand why you were annealing it (you cut with your bandsaw). Currently making a billet and I up to around 50 layers, finding some delaminations when cleaning between restack 😑 I've grinded them all out but likely lost like almost 7 or 8 layers highball estimate. (I started with 10 and now cut into 5) about to stack and weld. Wish me luck!
have you tried using expanded metal for a pattern ?
I haven't but I know others like Baker Forge use that. You need a really big press or a power hammer with those dies to make that work. Tough on a 30t press. Thanks for watching.
how about doing the layers in a box with the powdered steel, maybe a high carbon in the center for edge?
That’s not so easy and it doesn’t give you as nice of a pattern. Remember anything in a canister you can see while forging so it’s a bit of a mystery until you open it. Thanks for watching
What would happen if you twisted a ladder pattern after squaring up the billet post grinding in the cuts?
Twisting a billet really really changes the pattern a lot. You kinda lose much of what you did before the twist and it doesn't really show that much. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks that's what I was wondering. Thanks for the reply! I'm gonna try a small piece anyway and see what happens. Haha.
Thank you
Thanks for watching, Ryan!
I assume that your friend Rick Hall is the one who is from Calgary Alberta. I'm a farrier in that area and have bought lots of his tools. Good guy!
Thanks for the amazingly informative video! Would love to get into Damascus when I eventually have time to build a press.
No, Rick is from Reno. Thanks for watching
Oh funny. Rick from Calgary is a blacksmith too.
In person classes. When are you coming over buddy 😉
When are YOU coming over!? Weather is nicer in California. 😜. Thanks for following the series.
Were you on forged in fire?
If so what season and episode?
Nope, not yet. Still waiting for them to call. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks always.
I love how much commentary there is describing the process.
Is that a Homebuilt Roling press?
No, this one was purchased from David Barfield who makes them. Email me if you’d like his contact info. Thanks for watching.
Ever since I subscribed to your channel I've noticed a few videos from other forgeworkers in the suggestions. They're making "Damascus" from bike chains, nuts and bolts, fishhooks etc. It all sounds a bit gimmicky.
Bike chain is pretty popular actually. Not my thing though. It’s too random and IMO rarely looks that impressive. I prefer having much more control of the pattern. Thanks for watching.
Wish I would have watched this before I started making a billet today 🤦🏻♂️ oh well, got to play with my new press!
Practice makes perfect. 😜. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks yep, I’m saving it though, put to work what you said in this video and things are definitely looking better! Thanks for the content!
@@eizzle78 I did a whole series on different Damascus patterns. You might want to checkout that playlist. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks I’m in the process of watching them!
First, I am not a knife maker, I also have limited metal working experience. BUT, when I saw you using the milling rollers it made me wonder about using a knurling die on the billet, and then forging out the blade, I assume a knurling die would not get a deep enough cut the give any real pattern, though
The knurling roller would be way too shallow. They only go about .020" at most into the material. You need about 5x that depth to get a real pattern. You wouldn't get much of a pattern just grinding 0.020" into the billet. There are other dies for presses and rollers for rolling mills that would impart patterns like that. Thanks for watching.
Good 👍👍
Thanks for taking a look!
Halo sobat boleh kah aku pesan baja Damaskus tapi hanya berbentuk plat aja nanti di sini baru aku bentuk sendiri, kalau boleh berapa harga nya dalam bentuk Rp (Rupiah)
Saya tidak melakukan pesanan khusus. Yang ini akan dijual di situs web saya minggu depan, Anda dapat memeriksanya di sana. Terima kasih telah menonton.
Just bought a billet from Alabama shocked to find out it was only $11 shipping
I haven’t used their stuff, but I hear it’s pretty good.
Parabéns pelo seu excelente trabalho!..
Brasil
Muito obrigado! Eu aprecio você assistindo!
Hey Mr tyrell..can u make a Javanese keris.?? Name a keris is nagasasra,or a thousand dragon...
It’s on my list. Many people have asked for a Keris or Kris. Thanks for watching
Why are you using 13 layers of one type of metal and only 12 of the other? Won't this introduce thicker layers of one type of metal in the billet?
The 15n20 is thinner so I don’t want it on the outside. The scale lost on the outside will balance out and you’ll never notice it when restacked. Thanks for watching.
Why don't people make knives out of mono 15n20 steel or a stainless steel Damascus?
15n20 is a decent steel in its own right. Stainless Damascus is quite difficult to make. You can open-weld stainless steel so it’s much more challenging. Thanks for watching.
J'aurai pas cru qu'un damas de cuivre soit plus complexe, car je pensais naïvement que le seul problème d'un damas de cuivre est la gestion de la température, quand sur un damas comme celui ci, il y a beaucoup plus d'étapes d'assemblage, de soudures électriques comme de forge, de pliages, de martelage ...
C'est encore l'une des techniques de damas les plus simples. Le damas de cuivre combine un damas ordinaire avec du cuivre, c'est donc un peu plus complexe. Merci d'avoir regardé!
You don't always have to remove something. Press some grooves into one side of a billet, cut it in half, stack them as the jacket of a San mai with the grooved sides out and the flat side in. No loss ladder 😉.
Then you’re still removing something. You cut it in half! Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks if you retain both halves and use them as the the two jacket pieces, you don't remove anything. At least not if you use a hot cut, like a real smith 😉
@@samziegler4957 my point is that you can’t accomplish this pattern with removing material. You happen to using that removed material in your example, but it’s still removed.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I'm still confused. Say you took three billets. Forged ridges in one side of two of the billets. Assembled the three into a San mai with the ridges facing outside and forge the lot flat. What is being removed?
This is all theoretical mind you. I'm going to have to make the damn thing today just to see what it looks like.
Класс.
Спасибо, что следите за нами!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Продолжайте нас радовать своим творчеством.Всего вам хорошего.С приветом из России.
Bro you should go in forge in fire 🔥
I’ve applied (several times) just waiting for them to call. 👍. Thanks for watching.
💐💐💐💐💐💐
You were just fusing the sides of the billet. To weld you would need more penetration and a filler rod.
Yes, exactly right. I don’t want to weld them, I wanted to fuse them. Welding introduces mild steel into the billet. I just want an air-tight seal to keep out oxygen. Thanks for watching, Alan.
🦍
Thanks for watching!
Where are you
I’m in California. You can reach out via my website, link in the video description.
@@TyrellKnifeworksI got a drawing of a recurve fighter bowie sai mai damascus and copper
Someone needs to try carving out a word ladder style.
That would be cool! If you had a CNC mill it would be easy. Thanks for watching, Daniel!
It gives me the creeps watching you work around spinning, cutting, and sanding tools while wearing your ring. I understand people are very emotionally attached to their rings but it is unsafe to wear ANY rings or hanging neckware around those tools.
If you make it a habit of taking it off first thing when you enter your shop and put IN THE SAME PLACE every time it become a habit and you will not forget it.
I’ve never had any issues with my ring, never touched it against anything. I’ll keep wearing it. What I mostly do is grinding and the ring is not an issue. Thanks for watching.
Top bad we didn’t see the final product…
You saw the final billet at the end. That’s the purpose of this series. Thanks for watching, John
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You are a rael shark
Thanks for watching!
Or more correctly 'pattern welded'
Yeah, but let’s not split hairs on naming. We all know what “Damascus” means.
@TyrellKnifeworks yes, it means a type of crucible steel first produced over two thousand years ago from an iron ore of specific composition and which when the steel was subjected to a process of repeated heat treatments gave rise to bandings of differing compositions.
This completely different to pattern welded steel.
.
@@HighWealder Look, you don’t need to “educate” me on what Wootz is. I’m an ABS Journeyman Bladesmith. We bladesmiths don’t correct each other on these terms because it’s.. well, pretentious. We know what it means and if we wanted to refer to traditional Damascus we’d say Wootz. Would you correct a master Bladesmith to his face… no. So why do it here on the internet? I get you’re trying to show me you know the difference but it just comes off really pretentious.