This is THE most meticulous video on the ford 3.5 water pump I have ever watched. Spectacular! The only thing I would change is pulling all the in the way items before removing the valve covers!! Excellent video!! If every mechanic video was this detailed, mechanics would go out of business.
Thanks for the complement but I believe these videos are having the opposite affect. A lot of folks don't want the hassle. It's a huge job! It is doable though.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Absolutely. I am doing this repair right now. I only did it because the mech that I use said that the job was too huge for him and would cost me between $3,000 and $5,000. Could not pay it. So doing it myself. But, now I see, first-hand, the reasons why things are so expensive, and how complicated repairs can be. Massive respect to good and honest auto mechanics.
Sir let me just say I've been a Jet Mechanic for 20 yrs, that being said you would have made an excellent A&P. Methodical and patient are your top skills, Great video!!! Personally I'm not doing a R&R on my 3.5L but I couldn't stop watching, your a great mechanic.
The best video I have seen on this procedure by far. The importance of locating proper pry points cannot be over emphasized! Other guys doing this have actually cracked the timing cover by being ham fisted. Thank you very much for this. I own a 2007 edge with 183k and anticipate having this done as preventative maintenance as well as doing a PTU rebuild. Although I won't be attempting this myself, I will be interviewing mechanics. If I had the proper facilities I could accomplish this in a garage. I have every tool needed and then some. A pleasure watching your video and great advice offered up during the procedure.
Just dropping in to say thanks for the excellent video. I just finished my replacement yesterday and everything went really well. It was a PITA, but it went well. Your video was a huge help. I owe you my gratitude and a case of your favorite drink. Thanks again.
Excellent vid! On the timing cover, there are 6 threaded pushpoint holes, 2 at the top center, 4 more around the sides & bottom edge; once all of the cover bolts are removed, use 6 of those same bolts in the 6 pushpoints to slowly pry\push to cover open & away from the block.
This video was very informative and well articulated, with a very much no nonsense approach. Only the information needed to disassemble was shared. Very thorough and from my point of view… Very well done! Thanks!
Amen, he's done a great job of explaining everything and showing as much as possible, good camera quality and friendly red circles absolutely make it better.
Great video, I got about halfway threw this exact job in my driveway when it got dark. I'm still a little nervous cams trying to avoid buying the tool to cams from moving, very informative Thanks again
Oh the tools aren't that expensive. I'd highly recommend using them. You could have them mailed to your house pretty quickly. Good luck to you, Sir. Let me know if you need anything.
Awesome set of videos. I just completed this on my 2013, 2.5 days (26 hrs), taking it easy, one person, including chasing parts/tools. Mine was a little different, motor mount "bracket" part of timing cover casting. I opted to put RTV on engine surface instead of cover. Chiltons manual not as clear as these videos, but atleast i got torque specs, bit weird, xxinlbs then additional turn. DO NOT turn engine counter clockwise to get rag out of cam, yes i rotated with towel cover on. Crank sprocket skipped on chain, lucky for me i did this with the cover off and easy to fix, also still had cam holders in.... Steering pump not easy going back in. Intimidating, but this video helped so much. Rotate harmonic balancer CLOCKWISE atleast one full revolution while installing steering belt, double checks you got timing lined up before firing off engine. Thanks again
Thank you so much for adding those extra details on screen, and a very well laid out video and explanation. I'm going to be brave to do all this work to replace my water pump. Wish me luck! LOL I have a 2012 Edge limited, but the engine looks pretty much identical. I figured if I can take apart and put together laptops during repair, I can do this for an engine. It's just about knowing where things go and be patient.
Good Update. VCovers removed and Harness out of the way. The trick I found was to use nylon masonry string and loop over the coil bolts and also loop in vacant Christmas tree tabs after you break seal and WD-40 seals. Gives you great angle for lifting the VC off. You were right. Not fun to remove. Next under the car.
OH MY GOODNESS!! 😲 THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO! 🙏🏻 I HAVE BEEN STUCK ON THE POWER STEERING PUMP REMOVAL PART FOR SO LONG 😩TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW THE HELL TO GET THIS THING OFF 🤷🏻♂️ SO I CAN REMOVE THE TIMING COVER ALREADY!
I know this is an older video and may not be “monitored” any more, but what you’ve done is create something that will last. My 2010 Edge Limited with 130k is sitting in my driveway waiting for this old man to get the nerve up and give it a go. Along way from removing 4 bolts and lowering my ‘65 Beetle motor to ease maintenance.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Yay!!!! Fortunately for me I have other cars to use, so I’ll be able to take my time and if I’ve got any issues, I will reach out. Thanks for taking the time.
I have a Ford Edge 2008 to replace the timing timing chain and water pump I think this video mean a lot to me never done it before but this video help me a lot
Man, I love your thoroughness, not just in the video, but the extra notes and links on the description. I’m kind of the same way, even wrote a step guide and checklist. Plus, this is about the 5th time I watch the vid.
@@BarboursAutoHelp wow, thank you!! I'm having trouble removing the harmonic balancer bolt, it's a traditional bolt right, righty tighty lefty loosy?? Thank you in advance!!
I really wish you would of covered replacing that last guide. The phaser I broke off a torn on, and now I am debating replacing that screw for the guide with a shorter bolt and cutting that old one off!
I’m doing a water pump and timing chain set on a 2010 MKZ right now. Water in the oil. Will be doing head gaskets also. What a PITA. Ford likes to use a lot of those zip ties with the Christmas tree push ins on their wiring harnesses, another PITA, they always break.
@@BarboursAutoHelp The crankcase is full of coolant. It thru a camshaft crankshaft correlation code. I suspect the water pump has gone out but given the mileage on the vehicle the possibility of head gasket leaking or close to leaking is a real possibility. If there not leaking let there probably not fair away from leaking and given a lot of the work to remove them I’m doing already with the timing cover and chains. The owner wants to do it all. Looks like a lot more clearance with with some things on the Edge than I have on this MKZ. Don’t know what designers at Ford were thinking of when they designed this engine with an internal water pump, seems to be a recipe for disaster.
Thank you. Love the video, liked and subscribed. I cannot get my Amazon cam lockers to fit. They actually dont even fit correctly over both shafts let alone the flat areas at the phasers. .they do fit on one but not both on shafts or locking point. I bought the correct ones but not the one in your link. . And they are close but don’t fit anywhere on the entire shaft. . Not sure what to do. Looks like I need to grind the lockers about a 1/32 on one side. Advice would be great. Only doing the primary chain and water pump. So not sure if absolutely need to lock the cams.
Hi Keith, it’s December 2024. Are you still driving the ‘07 Ford Edge? If so, how did your water pump and timing chain replacement hold up? I have a 2012 Ford Edge that needs the same repair job. Ready to get to work. Thank you for your video series. It really helps!
Still going. However, I had to replace the pump again a year or so ago. I suggest using Motorcraft water pump. They hold up better. I didn’t use Motorcraft at first. Hard lesson. lol
@@BarboursAutoHelp Can you please tell me what after-market water pump brand you originally purchased? Curious what the price is compared to the Motorcraft brand. Thanks Keith
At minute 45.45 you show how you keep your timing case bolts in the correct relative position. On the 2013 Ford Explorer engine there is one extra bolt - it's an 8mm and it's situated just below the front camshaft on the rear cylinder bank. It's not very obvious...and nearly forced the cover off before I twigged that there was something else holding it. Hope this helps somebody. Excellent video - I'm just removing the water pump today! Also - you mention the difficulty of lowering the casing into position and not disturbing the RTV. Is there any reason the RTV shouldn't be applied to the engine rather then the casing?
Nice video, Like it! Yeah I have a Poo16 on my 14 Lincoln MKT, 3.5L ecoboost AWD , @ 179k says its VCT Solenoid. It makes a rattle from after parked more than 4 hrs.. Itskips when i am accelarating but once it warms up its good. But I am just gonna take it in to the Pro's at the dealer over @ Nalley Ford/Lincoln on Roswell Rd, Sandy Springs, GA so it can get done right. They always done right so no need to mess that up.
The engine cover has push offs which you put bolts through at about 6 positions and tighten down evenly to break seal, you actually showed one of the push off holes in the video , they are also shown in the manual, bets prying and possibly breaker cover
I've added a note in the description about that. I always pry them off.. on a lot of the later model vehicles, not with this particular cover, a pry bar is the only way you can get the cover off. Thanks again. Great information.
I know this is an old video. I have a 07 ford edge. Has about 220k on it. Last couple of days here and there the temp gage would go to hot then drop back down. Never steamed or anything. Today sitting in traffic it overheated them blew steam out. Had a trail and puddle under the car. Towed it home and put fluids back in it but can't find any leaks. Checked oil and no coolant/oil mix. What's the best way to determine if it's the water pump? It was wet by the coolant tank and the pullys. Could my thermostat messed up and maybe went close causing the coolant to come out of the coolant tank?
Today I got the timing cover off but it would not clear with the cam phaser brackets in place. I had to remove the phaser bracket on the rear head in order to remove the timing cover from the engine. Very tight clearance by the strut tower. Going to make it tricky putting it back in without messing up the silicone sealer. The water pump on this one is so bad it’s difficult to turn the engine over to line up the timing marks.
I know this video has been here for some time I was just wondering at how many miles did your water pump go out. Just wondering for the seals on the cam phasers. Mine is at 195k and I will be getting to it in about a week so I’m trying to find all the parts
@ 27:28 Regular straps will not work. Look at package and make sure you are getting 100# or 175# straps like Utilitech Cable ties #0292678 (bought at Lowes). The others just snapped off when I tried them.
You must be the most patient man of all time!! Who the F designed this damn engine?!! Not a problem yet but looking for weeping on our '08 MKZ, 131k miles, otherwise been pretty good other than a couple bad injectors & starter died recently.
Very good video I'm debating doing this job for a young couple this weekend they bought an Edge the people who sold it to them never mentioned the water pump the car lost heat the coolant got low bought it to a shop they gave a quote 4000$ So what is the time for you 8 hours?
This would apply to a 07 Lincoln MKZ also I'm assuming? Is the whole timing chain kit needed also? What do you think the range of cost would be for a mechanic to do the job if I have the parts? They said it needed the thermostat replaced also.
Great video, but one question. Got my 2010 Ford Edge apart to fix water pump, but I can't get the marks on the timing chain to line up with marks on the VVT's and crank gear. I got the cam holding tool to fit on both cams. Is it necessary to have "colored" marks on the timing chain line up if #1 piston is at TDC and cam holding tools fit?
I have a 2007 Lincoln MKZ (3.5L 149,000mi) Any advice/strategery for the 10mm bolt (rear bank below head on) that holds power steering pump?? I am having an extremely hard time.... Is it better to use a 3/8 rachet or a 1/4 rachet?
@@ChrisB-cx6td Got it all buttoned up and just have to put the stretchy belt on for the power steering pump. Ripped one already! Bought a tool but that’s what ripped it. Tried zip ties and that didn’t work. Making a tool tonight
@@Superbond recall taking the car for a belt replacement 😂 the idiotic mechanic was having issues with the strecthy belt . I had to go under the car and tell him how to install it . did you get motorcraft ?
How did you get the main center bolt out of the cover? The large 15mm, its long and hits the frame. so many videos on this but no one shows that bolt removal.
@@BarboursAutoHelp I just watched both and did not see it. I'm assuming you got it loose, got all the other bolts out and then finagled that out with the cover until you could remove it completely? Thanks for the quick reply my guy!
I believe I didn't show it but explained how to do it. You have to either raise or lower the engine to get it to clear. Go back to the part where I'm taking the cover off to verify. I think your talking about the bottom bolt in the middle just beneath where the mount bolts up.
I changed out the timing chain and water pump after a coolant leak into the oil and got everything cleared up and it runs fine now but can't seem to clear the code p0018 cranshaft position correlation code...do you know if I need to change that sensor
oof!! This usually means that the cam timing is off. If you erase the code does it come back? If so you may need to take it apart again and redo it. Of course exhaust all other possibilities first. I suppose "theoretically" a cam sensor could cause this, but I have yet to see that. It's always been timing for me. Did it have this code before the timing chain was replaced?
@@BarboursAutoHelp awww wow no it did not throw the code before I changed it...the car runs fine it just has this code..and you don't think it had anything to do with the crankshaft sensor..could it be anything else..taking that whole thing back apart would be too much..lol
@@joechambers09 It sounds like you have that particular cam a tooth off or two. You could try swapping the cam sensors and see if the code moves. But, honestly I've never seen a correlation code be caused by anything else other than the timing being off..... I take that back. I've seen vct solenoids being clogged with trash cause this. But being as you didn't have the code before I'd say it's likely that the timing is off. Keep me posted. I'll help any way I can.
@@BarboursAutoHelp well I was thinking since I did have the water pump go out and all that milky substance went thru the engine it might have clogged the solenoids up
@@joechambers09 Maybe..... I feel you pain man. This is a bad situation. Please let us know what the fix is whatever it is. This post could very well help someone.
Dude,.. the Best Video yet on the internal function of the Water pump & timing removal..I bought a 07 Edge with a smoked Engine..I just picked up a 08 Lincoln mxk compatible replacement engine with 164,ooo miles 3.5.. I'm gonna order up timing set & water pump.& New oil pump..install it all before doing Engine swap..you think that's a good idea..? Or just roll the dice & run it as is..?
Thanks for the complement. First, PLEASE be sure it's compatible. Also, if it came with injectors and sensors, be sure that's compatible too. If it is then I would definitely change the water pump and timing chain before putting it in. It's way easier to do with the engine out. Good luck to you.
How much does it cost to do what you did to repair the water pump on your 2007Ford Edge. My 2010 water pump we believe went out. Sounds exactly what you said about yours.
Hello again. Haven’t given up. Just very slow!!! BTW. I can see why you skipped the actual removal of the 18mm engine mount bolts. They were holding in for dear life. 😆😆😆
@@BarboursAutoHelp Had to paint the VC and TC while they were out. Nice Ford Oval light blue. Question: How early in the reinstall process can I put the VC on and not have to undo. With all my new chain guides and sprockets I want to seal it up ASAP. Thoughts?
@@BarboursAutoHelp I didn’t give up and finished the repair this week. Runs so smooth for 131k miles. Glad I did myself for various reasons. Done right and best that could be done taking time to clean up oil and water passages. When my pump went the bearing was destroyed. The vanes rubbed the aluminum block. Flecks of aluminum in water and oil. Several flush/fill and oil/filter later with flush chemicals has addressed with very little evident. I will be adding Lucas lubricant after my next 1000 mile oil change before I move to regular routine. Again thanks for the step by step removal. Only regrets. Taking too long to finish and wish I had taken more and closer pictures before work began.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Hello, I might have missed it, but I didn't hear anything about it the balancer can go back on in any direction since there's no key way. Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
In part two you'll notice that the key way is in the crank sprocket, that the chain is driven by. The pulley in the video is not keyed and can be installed without timing it to the crank.
@@BarboursAutoHelp hi just remove the water pump I got it to start but oil light is on and check engine light is on for camshaft sensor and o,2 senor I toke back down to check timing what you think the problem is
I just replaced my timing due to a p0016 correlation code. It’s in time now, and no code but I have a knocking sound. I was told to replace my rod bearings. I did and they were bad off. Think that could be what is causing the knock?
Barbour's Auto Help I haven’t put the new bearings in yet I’m waiting on the new bolts to do that. But the crank looks really great. Shines like chrome and slick. I have videos and pictures. Just don’t think I can post them here in the comments. I really don’t have family or anyone to help I’ve even had a time out of ramey Ford. They got me pretty good. So at this point Any advice helps
So. It’s hard to imagine but life happens as do plans come and go. I’m about to start this project. I know who to reach out to if I have questions. Wink wink. It’s a 2010. I drained oil and removed filter. Refilled with some sea foam to do an initial flush of oil passages and started to hear if any crazy damage. Only a lot of clatter behind timing gear cover and water pump area. Nothing of note at the crank or rod area. So here “we” go. I’m doing this myself to ensure it’s done right. And at my age, I think this’ll be the last major engine work I do. 😵💫😵💫😵💫
Hey man I just watched your videos and thanks for all the info. I am doing the water pump and timing chain set replacement in my 2011 Ford Fusion Sport with the 3.5. I've been told that since its a fusion the engine will have to come out of the car because of clearance issues. I was wondering what repair manual you used?
Trust me a lot of people like me would be interested it that as I am waiting for my parts to come. Nervous about that part because you know it you touch or break the silicone bead. Game over ! Do it all over again or tow it to the junk yard and have a beer!
Mine just overheated today. I pulled over and shut the engine down immediately. 115,000 miles, no issues before this, but I was aware of the timing chain-driven water pump issues with this engine. What are the chances I saved the engine from being totally destroyed?
Judging by my experience, where the vehicle was driven for some time like that, I'd say you chances are good. I've been pleasantly surprised. Of course make sure what your problem is. It could be something else.
@@BarboursAutoHelp The shop is closed until Monday so I won't have any idea of the extent of the damage until they open it up. Waiting for the tow truck guy, I pulled the dipstick and the coolant had already mixed with the oil. Thanks for the reply.
According to doctor Google those are "circuit " codes. In my experience when circuit codes are present that means there is either a problem with the component, circuit or PCM. I don't suspect you got it out of time as usually cam/crank "correlation " codes will show up if the timing is off. Id be suspicious that a cam sensor isn't plugged back in all the way. Hope this helps. Keep me posted.
It all depends on who is doing it an wear it is being done. Seem pricey. But, I don't know what all is on your estimate. Just a water pump or did the quote out an engine?
@@BarboursAutoHelp i actually did the job myself. But later got rid of the MKX cause they just have so many freaking problems. 6 months with the car and non stop repairs. 1 of my worst car experiences.
This is the most ridiculous thing all my cars I have owned water pumps are instantly out like super easy jobs,you don't live nere phoenix do you?Takes a mechanic shop 15 hrs to do job or more and cost 3000.00 and we paid 4000.00 for car I can got buy another one for 2000.00 but don't got that kind of money to spend
So how did you get the timing chain tensioner off, did you have to lock the pin before removing bolts, or not just removed the bolts and slid off with pin still engaged? This video is helpful.
![[FINALE] 💸ที่แท้พ่อเป็นผู้ถือหุ้นบริษัทพันล้าน เขากลับใจตอนนี้ก็สายไปแล้ว🙇🏻♂️#ละครคุณธรรม #short](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yFwgjTFISUI/mqdefault.jpg)
This is THE most meticulous video on the ford 3.5 water pump I have ever watched. Spectacular! The only thing I would change is pulling all the in the way items before removing the valve covers!! Excellent video!! If every mechanic video was this detailed, mechanics would go out of business.
Thanks for the complement but I believe these videos are having the opposite affect. A lot of folks don't want the hassle. It's a huge job! It is doable though.
Huge complement! Thank you!
@@BarboursAutoHelp Absolutely. I am doing this repair right now. I only did it because the mech that I use said that the job was too huge for him and would cost me between $3,000 and $5,000. Could not pay it. So doing it myself. But, now I see, first-hand, the reasons why things are so expensive, and how complicated repairs can be. Massive respect to good and honest auto mechanics.
Thanks man!
@@jamesfreeling426 all data is nice and cheap but the video makes it a lot better
Sir let me just say I've been a Jet Mechanic for 20 yrs, that being said you would have made an excellent A&P. Methodical and patient are your top skills, Great video!!! Personally I'm not doing a R&R on my 3.5L but I couldn't stop watching, your a great mechanic.
Wow. Thanks for the compliment. Let me know if you need anything.
The best video I have seen on this procedure by far. The importance of locating proper pry points cannot be over emphasized! Other guys doing this have actually cracked the timing cover by being ham fisted. Thank you very much for this. I own a 2007 edge with 183k and anticipate having this done as preventative maintenance as well as doing a PTU rebuild. Although I won't be attempting this myself, I will be interviewing mechanics. If I had the proper facilities I could accomplish this in a garage. I have every tool needed and then some. A pleasure watching your video and great advice offered up during the procedure.
Just dropping in to say thanks for the excellent video. I just finished my replacement yesterday and everything went really well. It was a PITA, but it went well. Your video was a huge help. I owe you my gratitude and a case of your favorite drink. Thanks again.
So glad to help.
Excellent vid! On the timing cover, there are 6 threaded pushpoint holes, 2 at the top center, 4 more around the sides & bottom edge; once all of the cover bolts are removed, use 6 of those same bolts in the 6 pushpoints to slowly pry\push to cover open & away from the block.
I don’t know how many times it can be said but this is an excellent video. Thank you sir
This video was very informative and well articulated, with a very much no nonsense approach. Only the information needed to disassemble was shared. Very thorough and from my point of view… Very well done! Thanks!
this video is unbelievably helpful
Amen, he's done a great job of explaining everything and showing as much as possible, good camera quality and friendly red circles absolutely make it better.
Ahh, you like the circles! Thanks a bunch!. Hopefully one day I'll have some better software to improve.
Great video, I got about halfway threw this exact job in my driveway when it got dark. I'm still a little nervous cams trying to avoid buying the tool to cams from moving, very informative Thanks again
Oh the tools aren't that expensive. I'd highly recommend using them. You could have them mailed to your house pretty quickly. Good luck to you, Sir. Let me know if you need anything.
I don't know if you are still working on it but the cam holding tool is $20 on Amazon
this video series has made it clear that i should just sell my car as is and move on lol
Can not live without my flex head ratchet. Worth the investment 😊
For sure!!
The best video for 3.5 3.7 water pump replacement! Thanks a lot 💙👍
I only watched a minute or so, but that engine looks CLEAN inside!!!!!!
LOL!! Your joking right?
@@BarboursAutoHelp 0:19 Looks pretty clean to me! Just golden aluminum, no obvious sludge. Maybe I'm old-school, but it looks good.
Milk shake isn't a good thing
Awesome set of videos. I just completed this on my 2013, 2.5 days (26 hrs), taking it easy, one person, including chasing parts/tools. Mine was a little different, motor mount "bracket" part of timing cover casting. I opted to put RTV on engine surface instead of cover. Chiltons manual not as clear as these videos, but atleast i got torque specs, bit weird, xxinlbs then additional turn. DO NOT turn engine counter clockwise to get rag out of cam, yes i rotated with towel cover on. Crank sprocket skipped on chain, lucky for me i did this with the cover off and easy to fix, also still had cam holders in.... Steering pump not easy going back in. Intimidating, but this video helped so much. Rotate harmonic balancer CLOCKWISE atleast one full revolution while installing steering belt, double checks you got timing lined up before firing off engine. Thanks again
Good job! Hows it run?
@@BarboursAutoHelp good as new, changed plugs while had intake off.
So cool. Great job 👍
Thank you so much for adding those extra details on screen, and a very well laid out video and explanation. I'm going to be brave to do all this work to replace my water pump. Wish me luck! LOL I have a 2012 Edge limited, but the engine looks pretty much identical.
I figured if I can take apart and put together laptops during repair, I can do this for an engine. It's just about knowing where things go and be patient.
I'm here if you need.
thank you sir your vid helped me get a family back on the road before summer ended god bless
I’ve been using this video to change the water pump in my 2010 Ford Flex. Thank you for making this video!
Good Update. VCovers removed and Harness out of the way.
The trick I found was to use nylon masonry string and loop over the coil bolts and also loop in vacant Christmas tree tabs after you break seal and WD-40 seals. Gives you great angle for lifting the VC off.
You were right. Not fun to remove.
Next under the car.
That's great! Thank you for sharing!
OH MY GOODNESS!! 😲 THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO! 🙏🏻 I HAVE BEEN STUCK ON THE POWER STEERING PUMP REMOVAL PART FOR SO LONG 😩TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW THE HELL TO GET THIS THING OFF 🤷🏻♂️ SO I CAN REMOVE THE TIMING COVER ALREADY!
Glad it helped!
Just subscribed, I’m replacing the water pump on my 2011 Ford Flex. Very Good instructional. 👍
Awesome! Let me know if you need anything. I'll keep watch for your comment.
The worst part of this whole job was the power steering pump bolts. Ty for the great video
The best video for this Ford Headache inside Water Pump....
Really appreciate it! This series was one of the most challenging. I see it was worth the work. Thank you again!
I know this is an older video and may not be “monitored” any more, but what you’ve done is create something that will last.
My 2010 Edge Limited with 130k is sitting in my driveway waiting for this old man to get the nerve up and give it a go.
Along way from removing 4 bolts and lowering my ‘65 Beetle motor to ease maintenance.
Still here.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Yay!!!! Fortunately for me I have other cars to use, so I’ll be able to take my time and if I’ve got any issues, I will reach out. Thanks for taking the time.
No problem. I know this is a big one. I especially pay attention to this video. So, I'm here if needed.
Really informative and very well executed! Thank you 👏👏👏👏
I have a Ford Edge 2008 to replace the timing timing chain and water pump I think this video mean a lot to me never done it before but this video help me a lot
Glad to help.
Great big Thank You for sharing this how to video!! I’ve just successfully replaced one and this was extraordinarily helpful!!
Glad it helped!
I just want to say thank you for the help! I have a 08 Taurus X and I was able to refer to this video and change my water pump.
Your most welcome.
This video is awesome you explain everything so good thank you .
I feel a lot more confident about doing this repair on my own 2011 flex 3.5 l
You are very welcome
Man, I love your thoroughness, not just in the video, but the extra notes and links on the description. I’m kind of the same way, even wrote a step guide and checklist. Plus, this is about the 5th time I watch the vid.
Awesome, thank you!
@@BarboursAutoHelp wow, thank you!! I'm having trouble removing the harmonic balancer bolt, it's a traditional bolt right, righty tighty lefty loosy?? Thank you in advance!!
Yes, turn the crank bolt counter clockwise to loosen. You need to hold the pulley still though.
@@BarboursAutoHelp thank you so so much!!
Sorry, what do you mean how much?
I really wish you would of covered replacing that last guide. The phaser I broke off a torn on, and now I am debating replacing that screw for the guide with a shorter bolt and cutting that old one off!
You did a great job with this video! A lot of great general advice for people working on their own car.
One of the better videos I have seen, good job.
Wow, thanks!
I’m doing a water pump and timing chain set on a 2010 MKZ right now. Water in the oil. Will be doing head gaskets also. What a PITA. Ford likes to use a lot of those zip ties with the Christmas tree push ins on their wiring harnesses, another PITA, they always break.
Whats wrong with the head gaskets? I don't see a lot of blown head gaskets on these.
@@BarboursAutoHelp
The crankcase is full of coolant. It thru a camshaft crankshaft correlation code. I suspect the water pump has gone out but given the mileage on the vehicle the possibility of head gasket leaking or close to leaking is a real possibility. If there not leaking let there probably not fair away from leaking and given a lot of the work to remove them I’m doing already with the timing cover and chains. The owner wants to do it all. Looks like a lot more clearance with with some things on the Edge than I have on this MKZ. Don’t know what designers at Ford were thinking of when they designed this engine with an internal water pump, seems to be a recipe for disaster.
AWESOME TECHNIQUE
Thank you!
Thank you. Love the video, liked and subscribed. I cannot get my Amazon cam lockers to fit. They actually dont even fit correctly over both shafts let alone the flat areas at the phasers. .they do fit on one but not both on shafts or locking point. I bought the correct ones but not the one in your link. . And they are close but don’t fit anywhere on the entire shaft. . Not sure what to do. Looks like I need to grind the lockers about a 1/32 on one side. Advice would be great. Only doing the primary chain and water pump. So not sure if absolutely need to lock the cams.
Thank you for this video
Hi Keith, it’s December 2024. Are you still driving the ‘07 Ford Edge? If so, how did your water pump and timing chain replacement hold up? I have a 2012 Ford Edge that needs the same repair job. Ready to get to work. Thank you for your video series. It really helps!
Still going. However, I had to replace the pump again a year or so ago. I suggest using Motorcraft water pump. They hold up better. I didn’t use Motorcraft at first. Hard lesson. lol
@@BarboursAutoHelp Can you please tell me what after-market water pump brand you originally purchased? Curious what the price is compared to the Motorcraft brand. Thanks Keith
@youtubecommentor4480 I’d rather not say. Don’t want to make any brand look bad. But Rockauto has Motorcraft at a decent price if that helps.
@ Sounds good Keith. Thank you.
@youtubecommentor4480 no problem
Tensioner tool is super smart
Great video totally helped my husband. Thanks.
No problem 😊
At minute 45.45 you show how you keep your timing case bolts in the correct relative position. On the 2013 Ford Explorer engine there is one extra bolt - it's an 8mm and it's situated just below the front camshaft on the rear cylinder bank. It's not very obvious...and nearly forced the cover off before I twigged that there was something else holding it. Hope this helps somebody. Excellent video - I'm just removing the water pump today!
Also - you mention the difficulty of lowering the casing into position and not disturbing the RTV. Is there any reason the RTV shouldn't be applied to the engine rather then the casing?
Nice video, Like it! Yeah I have a Poo16 on my 14 Lincoln MKT, 3.5L ecoboost AWD , @ 179k says its VCT Solenoid. It makes a rattle from after parked more than 4 hrs.. Itskips when i am accelarating but once it warms up its good. But I am just gonna take it in to the Pro's at the dealer over @ Nalley Ford/Lincoln on Roswell Rd, Sandy Springs, GA so it can get done right. They always done right so no need to mess that up.
Sometimes thats the best thing to do....
The engine cover has push offs which you put bolts through at about 6 positions and tighten down evenly to break seal, you actually showed one of the push off holes in the video , they are also shown in the manual, bets prying and possibly breaker cover
42.42 seconds left side just above the hose
Thanks for sharing. Thats a great way to do it too.
I've added a note in the description about that. I always pry them off.. on a lot of the later model vehicles, not with this particular cover, a pry bar is the only way you can get the cover off. Thanks again. Great information.
I know this is an old video. I have a 07 ford edge. Has about 220k on it. Last couple of days here and there the temp gage would go to hot then drop back down. Never steamed or anything. Today sitting in traffic it overheated them blew steam out. Had a trail and puddle under the car. Towed it home and put fluids back in it but can't find any leaks. Checked oil and no coolant/oil mix. What's the best way to determine if it's the water pump? It was wet by the coolant tank and the pullys. Could my thermostat messed up and maybe went close causing the coolant to come out of the coolant tank?
Today I got the timing cover off but it would not clear with the cam phaser brackets in place. I had to remove the phaser bracket on the rear head in order to remove the timing cover from the engine. Very tight clearance by the strut tower. Going to make it tricky putting it back in without messing up the silicone sealer. The water pump on this one is so bad it’s difficult to turn the engine over to line up the timing marks.
Great video!! Thank you!
Thanks a bunch!
So basically get it tdc first after valve covers are off and drop the holders on?
I know this video has been here for some time I was just wondering at how many miles did your water pump go out. Just wondering for the seals on the cam phasers. Mine is at 195k and I will be getting to it in about a week so I’m trying to find all the parts
Same here… I have a 2012 Ford Edge with 194k miles. Need to replace the water pump and timing chain as well.
How did you get that bottom bolt in for the motor mount Bracket the motor won’t go low enough
It may help if you unbolted the roll restrictor mount. I didn’t have to do this but it may help you.
@ 27:28 Regular straps will not work. Look at package and make sure you are getting 100# or 175# straps like Utilitech Cable ties #0292678 (bought at Lowes). The others just snapped off when I tried them.
Thanks for sharing 😊
You must be the most patient man of all time!! Who the F designed this damn engine?!! Not a problem yet but looking for weeping on our '08 MKZ, 131k miles, otherwise been pretty good other than a couple bad injectors & starter died recently.
amazing amount of detail 👍
Thanks! 👍
You make a great teacher!!!!!!
Thank you! 😃
Very good video I'm debating doing this job for a young couple this weekend they bought an Edge the people who sold it to them never mentioned the water pump the car lost heat the coolant got low bought it to a shop they gave a quote 4000$ So what is the time for you 8 hours?
I think book time is 8-10 hrs ish. Don't quote me. If I can stay on it steady I'd say it would take me around 8 hrs. I'm slow though.
This would apply to a 07 Lincoln MKZ also I'm assuming? Is the whole timing chain kit needed also? What do you think the range of cost would be for a mechanic to do the job if I have the parts? They said it needed the thermostat replaced also.
Great video, but one question. Got my 2010 Ford Edge apart to fix water pump, but I can't get the marks on the timing chain to line up with marks on the VVT's and crank gear. I got the cam holding tool to fit on both cams. Is it necessary to have "colored" marks on the timing chain line up if #1 piston is at TDC and cam holding tools fit?
Can you get the chain installed with the marks on the chain lined up with the VVT unit marks to start with?
Wow! Thank you.
You're welcome!
Did you have to put a top dead center ? Then line up the marks ?
I did it just like explained in the video.
Once the cams are in position and the cam holders are installed the engine is in tdc on cylinder #1.
Thanks for the video. Where's part 2?
Still working on it. It's a big one. Sorry for the delay. Making great progress though.
Its gonna be over an hour from the looks of it.
th-cam.com/video/o4npM0waXmY/w-d-xo.html (It will be public tomorrow morning!)
Great job man, thanks!
No problem!
What is the part number for the crank pulley tool???
I have a 2007 Lincoln MKZ (3.5L 149,000mi)
Any advice/strategery for the 10mm bolt (rear bank below head on) that holds power steering pump?? I am having an extremely hard time....
Is it better to use a 3/8 rachet or a 1/4 rachet?
Id say a 1/4" drive would be best. It's hard no matter how you slice it.
I don’t have enough drywall left in my garage to throw tools at! Lol
Not a hard repair but tedious !
@@ChrisB-cx6td
Got it all buttoned up and just have to put the stretchy belt on for the power steering pump. Ripped one already! Bought a tool but that’s what ripped it. Tried zip ties and that didn’t work. Making a tool tonight
@@Superbond recall taking the car for a belt replacement 😂 the idiotic mechanic was having issues with the strecthy belt . I had to go under the car and tell him how to install it . did you get motorcraft ?
How did you get the main center bolt out of the cover? The large 15mm, its long and hits the frame. so many videos on this but no one shows that bolt removal.
I believe I went over that either in this video or the next.
@@BarboursAutoHelp I just watched both and did not see it. I'm assuming you got it loose, got all the other bolts out and then finagled that out with the cover until you could remove it completely? Thanks for the quick reply my guy!
I believe I didn't show it but explained how to do it. You have to either raise or lower the engine to get it to clear. Go back to the part where I'm taking the cover off to verify. I think your talking about the bottom bolt in the middle just beneath where the mount bolts up.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Correct! I will try both ways. Thank you for your replies brother! God bless
I changed out the timing chain and water pump after a coolant leak into the oil and got everything cleared up and it runs fine now but can't seem to clear the code p0018 cranshaft position correlation code...do you know if I need to change that sensor
oof!! This usually means that the cam timing is off. If you erase the code does it come back? If so you may need to take it apart again and redo it. Of course exhaust all other possibilities first. I suppose "theoretically" a cam sensor could cause this, but I have yet to see that. It's always been timing for me. Did it have this code before the timing chain was replaced?
@@BarboursAutoHelp awww wow no it did not throw the code before I changed it...the car runs fine it just has this code..and you don't think it had anything to do with the crankshaft sensor..could it be anything else..taking that whole thing back apart would be too much..lol
@@joechambers09 It sounds like you have that particular cam a tooth off or two. You could try swapping the cam sensors and see if the code moves. But, honestly I've never seen a correlation code be caused by anything else other than the timing being off..... I take that back. I've seen vct solenoids being clogged with trash cause this. But being as you didn't have the code before I'd say it's likely that the timing is off. Keep me posted. I'll help any way I can.
@@BarboursAutoHelp well I was thinking since I did have the water pump go out and all that milky substance went thru the engine it might have clogged the solenoids up
@@joechambers09 Maybe..... I feel you pain man. This is a bad situation. Please let us know what the fix is whatever it is. This post could very well help someone.
Dude,.. the Best Video yet on the internal function of the Water pump & timing removal..I bought a 07 Edge with a smoked Engine..I just picked up a 08 Lincoln mxk compatible replacement engine with 164,ooo miles 3.5.. I'm gonna order up timing set & water pump.& New oil pump..install it all before doing Engine swap..you think that's a good idea..? Or just roll the dice & run it as is..?
Thanks for the complement. First, PLEASE be sure it's compatible. Also, if it came with injectors and sensors, be sure that's compatible too. If it is then I would definitely change the water pump and timing chain before putting it in. It's way easier to do with the engine out. Good luck to you.
I have a question.my 2 camshaft marks(dots) are not pointing up what can I do when I need to install a new chain?
Has the chain already been removed and are you using cam holders?
@@BarboursAutoHelp yeah but now the camshaft on bank 1 the dot wont mach on the new chain.is only little bit like one spece.
You used a specific puller. Can you include a description of it in your comments?
When you pull harmonic balancer stretch belt comes off easly
Thanks for sharing!
How much does it cost to do what you did to repair the water pump on your 2007Ford Edge. My 2010 water pump we believe went out. Sounds exactly what you said about yours.
Did you put motor tdc first?
Nevermind haha
Hello again. Haven’t given up. Just very slow!!!
BTW. I can see why you skipped the actual removal of the 18mm engine mount bolts. They were holding in for dear life. 😆😆😆
Glad your hanging in there. Don't give up.
@@BarboursAutoHelp
Had to paint the VC and TC while they were out. Nice Ford Oval light blue.
Question: How early in the reinstall process can I put the VC on and not have to undo. With all my new chain guides and sprockets I want to seal it up ASAP.
Thoughts?
Well, I like the way I'd did it.
@@BarboursAutoHelp I didn’t give up and finished the repair this week. Runs so smooth for 131k miles. Glad I did myself for various reasons. Done right and best that could be done taking time to clean up oil and water passages.
When my pump went the bearing was destroyed. The vanes rubbed the aluminum block. Flecks of aluminum in water and oil. Several flush/fill and oil/filter later with flush chemicals has addressed with very little evident.
I will be adding Lucas lubricant after my next 1000 mile oil change before I move to regular routine.
Again thanks for the step by step removal. Only regrets. Taking too long to finish and wish I had taken more and closer pictures before work began.
Thank you so much for informing us. So happy it turned out well for you. Way to stick it out!!
So
The harmonic balancer. It can go on anyway? There is no key way! And can you just use a impact gun to put it on the torque to specs?
Keep watching my friend. I've got that info in there. Check out part 2 also.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Hello, I might have missed it, but I didn't hear anything about it the balancer can go back on in any direction since there's no key way. Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
In part two you'll notice that the key way is in the crank sprocket, that the chain is driven by. The pulley in the video is not keyed and can be installed without timing it to the crank.
Hi good video I have a problem I put very thing back up and the car would not start it would round over but wont start could it be off timing
What exactly did you do to your vehicle?
@@BarboursAutoHelp hi just remove the water pump I got it to start but oil light is on and check engine light is on for camshaft sensor and o,2 senor I toke back down to check timing what you think the problem is
What exactly are the codes? What are the code numbers? Do you have oil in it? What is thee condition of the oil?
@@BarboursAutoHelp p0132 o2 senor camshift position sensor bank a
@@BarboursAutoHelp the oil looks good I changed oil went I put it back up
I just replaced my timing due to a p0016 correlation code. It’s in time now, and no code but I have a knocking sound. I was told to replace my rod bearings. I did and they were bad off. Think that could be what is causing the knock?
Shoot... I guess it's possible. Did the crank shaft need to be turned too? What was the bearing clearance when you put the new bearings in?
Barbour's Auto Help I haven’t put the new bearings in yet I’m waiting on the new bolts to do that. But the crank looks really great. Shines like chrome and slick. I have videos and pictures. Just don’t think I can post them here in the comments. I really don’t have family or anyone to help I’ve even had a time out of ramey Ford. They got me pretty good. So at this point Any advice helps
Barbour's Auto Help BTW I have 08 Ford Edge 3.5L
Barbour's Auto Help i think I sent you a message to your Facebook page.
So. It’s hard to imagine but life happens as do plans come and go.
I’m about to start this project. I know who to reach out to if I have questions. Wink wink.
It’s a 2010. I drained oil and removed filter. Refilled with some sea foam to do an initial flush of oil passages and started to hear if any crazy damage. Only a lot of clatter behind timing gear cover and water pump area. Nothing of note at the crank or rod area.
So here “we” go.
I’m doing this myself to ensure it’s done right.
And at my age, I think this’ll be the last major engine work I do. 😵💫😵💫😵💫
Best of luck to you. Please reach out if you need.
Why does every shop I call say the engine needs to be removed to do this? Yet here I am watching you open the motor up with it still installed.
What vehicle do you have?
Here is a link to part 2 : th-cam.com/video/o4npM0waXmY/w-d-xo.html
Where do I find the torque spec?
Hey man i got a ford explorer leaking coolant just like you said i know its the water pump
Looking for the part 2 video for the water pump 07 ford edge thanks
I've gotta make a couple corrections. I'll have it up asap.
th-cam.com/video/o4npM0waXmY/w-d-xo.html
Hey man I just watched your videos and thanks for all the info. I am doing the water pump and timing chain set replacement in my 2011 Ford Fusion Sport with the 3.5. I've been told that since its a fusion the engine will have to come out of the car because of clearance issues. I was wondering what repair manual you used?
Didn't use a manual. I've done a lot of chains and water pumps in my career. Don't think its needed to take the engine out
@@BarboursAutoHelp I think your right about the engine not needing to come out. Anyways great video man! It will definitely be very helpful!
No problem
Where can I find the correct torque specs?
A manual.
Trust me a lot of people like me would be interested it that as I am waiting for my parts to come. Nervous about that part because you know it you touch or break the silicone bead. Game over ! Do it all over again or tow it to the junk yard and have a beer!
Lots of patience needed.
Mine just overheated today. I pulled over and shut the engine down immediately. 115,000 miles, no issues before this, but I was aware of the timing chain-driven water pump issues with this engine. What are the chances I saved the engine from being totally destroyed?
Judging by my experience, where the vehicle was driven for some time like that, I'd say you chances are good. I've been pleasantly surprised. Of course make sure what your problem is. It could be something else.
@@BarboursAutoHelp The shop is closed until Monday so I won't have any idea of the extent of the damage until they open it up. Waiting for the tow truck guy, I pulled the dipstick and the coolant had already mixed with the oil. Thanks for the reply.
What kind of vehicle is it?
@@BarboursAutoHelp 2011 Taurus. 3.5 Duratec.
I hope its all good 👍
So on my lincoln u caint remove the wheel wheel cover smh.
Darn it
Awful lot of junk u gotta take off just for a waterpump. I love my 3800 v6 series 2! Easy.
Yea, much different ball of wax there. 3800 is a beast! Love em!
@@BarboursAutoHelp Yes indeed Keith!
I did timing chain and water pump now I have a p0340& p0344
According to doctor Google those are "circuit " codes. In my experience when circuit codes are present that means there is either a problem with the component, circuit or PCM. I don't suspect you got it out of time as usually cam/crank "correlation " codes will show up if the timing is off. Id be suspicious that a cam sensor isn't plugged back in all the way. Hope this helps. Keep me posted.
You find anything?
Barbour's Auto Help I took off the weekend I’ll keep you updated
Thats probably the best thing you can do. Come back at it when your fresh.
Barbour's Auto Help that’s for sure Thanks appreciate it by the way I hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving
@BarboursAutoHelp
Intimidating, but I need to save my self $1500
I'm steady working on part 2. Its taking a bit though. Trying to make it less than 1 hr. $1500 is a great price for this.
@@BarboursAutoHelp They quoted me $4,500 for this....
It all depends on who is doing it an wear it is being done. Seem pricey. But, I don't know what all is on your estimate. Just a water pump or did the quote out an engine?
@@BarboursAutoHelp i actually did the job myself. But later got rid of the MKX cause they just have so many freaking problems. 6 months with the car and non stop repairs. 1 of my worst car experiences.
Glad to hear you did the repairs yourself. Sorry to hear you had a bad experience.
This is the most ridiculous thing all my cars I have owned water pumps are instantly out like super easy jobs,you don't live nere phoenix do you?Takes a mechanic shop 15 hrs to do job or more and cost 3000.00 and we paid 4000.00 for car I can got buy another one for 2000.00 but don't got that kind of money to spend
Too far away but thanks for asking.
Love the video but would have liked to see you actually install the timing chain cover in real time
Real time was a long and awkward time. Lol. Lot of people loose interest to quick on shots like that.
So how did you get the timing chain tensioner off, did you have to lock the pin before removing bolts, or not just removed the bolts and slid off with pin still engaged? This video is helpful.
I slid it out.
Worst engineering design ever
Nah there are worse.
thank you for the video.
You're welcome