Mary Wong demonstrates the sequence and tools to use to clean up a ring casting. Eliminate repeating of steps and save time. More videos at TriosStudio.com
Muchas gracias por compartir la bendición del Padre del Hijo y del Espíritu Santo estén en tu vida y todos los tuyos gracias buen día bendiciones 😅😅😅😊😊😊Colombia cristo te Ama recibelo en tu corazón
hi mary great video . im making my pieces with delft clay and some of my designs have quite a bit of detail and because i use delft clay, my castings have a lot of texture i need to remove. what would you suggest i use to remove the sand texture while prepping for polish while not destroying the fine detail in my design? im currently using diamond bristle brushes but i find while they work, they take forever to remove the texture. can you suggest some sort of more aggressive brush type tool?
Without seeing the amount of detail it is difficult to judge what you might need to use. A standard bristle brush with tripoli or bobbing compound might work. Remember to charge the brush with compound frequently since it does the abrasion, not the brush.These abrasives from Stuller.com come in different grits and can be stacked to create a wider brushing surface -- Dedeco® Sunburst® Yellow 80 Grit Radial Discs. They have many abrasive choices overall as does Rio Grande. I have not used the delft clay for casting. Wrapping emery paper on a needle file to get into tight spaces is always a good trick to try or folding it into little stiff shapes to get into contours. Good luck!
Hi Jacky, We do not use a special solution. We scoop up some ultra sonic solution from the cleaner to keep it separate from the rest and ultrasonic the castings in it. You do not want plaster in your ultrasonic! It will damage the surface of other things, so discard it when finished. A stiff brush, steam, ultrasonic and elbow grease in combination is usually the answer. Keep on creating!
Is it necessary to start with filing and then sanding? Or is filing not always required? Isn’t it easier to just start with coarse emery paper…files just leaves deep grooves which then need to be sanded anyway…
It all depends on the surface of your casting and how much work you did during detailing of it. Where the sprue was cut off usually needs filing or a grinding wheel. The rest is really your judging what is next best method to continue resurfacing the piece until it is finished. There are also different coarseness of files and some are much finer than others. Same with abrasive papers. What I try to avoid is having to go back a step because I didn't get all the previous imperfections out of the last step. It becomes apparent on the next step! Then you have to go backwards. Keep on creating!
Hi Fahad, Do you mean after it is cut off the tree and there is a little nub left? If so then I would use a hand file or a grinding wheel , like a Mizzy wheel which is essentially a little composite grinding stone that can fit in a rotary tool like a Flex shaft. I find the metal grinding burs that have "teeth" tend to catch on the metal and they leave gouges. The Mizzy type of grinding wheel is much more controllabe. I always try to cut the sprue off close to the casting as well so there is less to grind. Use eye protection and a mask because they generate a lot of dust and debris. Good luck, Mary
@@marywong5670 yes that's what I meant. Thank you I am still learning this so this is helpful. Do you also have videos or training on setting diamonds?
@@Saywhatohno All of the videos I have made are on my TH-cam channel, but there is nothing specifically on diamond setting. There are some about stone setting in general that may be helpful. Diamonds can be set in every way anything else can, bezels, prongs, channels, bead set(pave), flush set, etc. So it is a broad question! But the principles apply across the board with cutting the seat area to match the angle of the stone, relieving metal to get it to bend where you want, not hitting the gem with your tool (which is how things get chipped or scratched) and getting the stone secure and tight. I just put a new series (5 parts!) about design and fabrication on my channel: "Beyond the Band & Bezel - Jewelry design with basic techniques" that may be interesting to you if you like fabrication. It's kind of long but I really wanted to show what can go into the process of evolving simple designs into something a little more interesting without more than the basics. I may make something specifically on stonesetting soon. I am trying to make better quality videos starting with the new 5 part series. Good luck, Mary
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Muchas gracias por compartir la bendición del Padre del Hijo y del Espíritu Santo estén en tu vida y todos los tuyos gracias buen día bendiciones 😅😅😅😊😊😊Colombia cristo te Ama recibelo en tu corazón
hi mary great video . im making my pieces with delft clay and some of my designs have quite a bit of detail and because i use delft clay, my castings have a lot of texture i need to remove. what would you suggest i use to remove the sand texture while prepping for polish while not destroying the fine detail in my design? im currently using diamond bristle brushes but i find while they work, they take forever to remove the texture. can you suggest some sort of more aggressive brush type tool?
Without seeing the amount of detail it is difficult to judge what you might need to use. A standard bristle brush with tripoli or bobbing compound might work. Remember to charge the brush with compound frequently since it does the abrasion, not the brush.These abrasives from Stuller.com come in different grits and can be stacked to create a wider brushing surface -- Dedeco® Sunburst® Yellow 80 Grit Radial Discs. They have many abrasive choices overall as does Rio Grande. I have not used the delft clay for casting. Wrapping emery paper on a needle file to get into tight spaces is always a good trick to try or folding it into little stiff shapes to get into contours. Good luck!
What solution do you use to remove the investment or plaster of paris after casting?
Hi Jacky,
We do not use a special solution. We scoop up some ultra sonic solution from the cleaner to keep it separate from the rest and ultrasonic the castings in it. You do not want plaster in your ultrasonic! It will damage the surface of other things, so discard it when finished. A stiff brush, steam, ultrasonic and elbow grease in combination is usually the answer.
Keep on creating!
Is it necessary to start with filing and then sanding? Or is filing not always required?
Isn’t it easier to just start with coarse emery paper…files just leaves deep grooves which then need to be sanded anyway…
It all depends on the surface of your casting and how much work you did during detailing of it. Where the sprue was cut off usually needs filing or a grinding wheel. The rest is really your judging what is next best method to continue resurfacing the piece until it is finished. There are also different coarseness of files and some are much finer than others. Same with abrasive papers. What I try to avoid is having to go back a step because I didn't get all the previous imperfections out of the last step. It becomes apparent on the next step! Then you have to go backwards.
Keep on creating!
is there a rotary tool you can use to take off the tree marks from the ring?
Hi Fahad,
Do you mean after it is cut off the tree and there is a little nub left? If so then I would use a hand file or a grinding wheel , like a Mizzy wheel which is essentially a little composite grinding stone that can fit in a rotary tool like a Flex shaft. I find the metal grinding burs that have "teeth" tend to catch on the metal and they leave gouges. The Mizzy type of grinding wheel is much more controllabe. I always try to cut the sprue off close to the casting as well so there is less to grind. Use eye protection and a mask because they generate a lot of dust and debris.
Good luck,
Mary
@@marywong5670 yes that's what I meant. Thank you I am still learning this so this is helpful. Do you also have videos or training on setting diamonds?
@@Saywhatohno
All of the videos I have made are on my TH-cam channel, but there is nothing specifically on diamond setting. There are some about stone setting in general that may be helpful. Diamonds can be set in every way anything else can, bezels, prongs, channels, bead set(pave), flush set, etc. So it is a broad question! But the principles apply across the board with cutting the seat area to match the angle of the stone, relieving metal to get it to bend where you want, not hitting the gem with your tool (which is how things get chipped or scratched) and getting the stone secure and tight. I just put a new series (5 parts!) about design and fabrication on my channel: "Beyond the Band & Bezel - Jewelry design with basic techniques" that may be interesting to you if you like fabrication. It's kind of long but I really wanted to show what can go into the process of evolving simple designs into something a little more interesting without more than the basics. I may make something specifically on stonesetting soon. I am trying to make better quality videos starting with the new 5 part series.
Good luck,
Mary
@@marywong5670 Thank you mary, I like long videos because then the message is conveyed much more precisely and accurately. Thank you
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