@@dvalinut Thanks, good to know. Found out Brass is heated to boiling water point for book leather pressing. Some plastic can withstand boiling water. For single book title embossing plastic might be good enough. Small run prints etc.
@@DrakeLe God I want a nice fiber so bad. I'm using a 40w led at the moment. I'm gonna run some experiments with this tomorrow on mine. I've got a ton of acrylic for a project I'm never gonna get to. Gonna try masking with flat black krylon. Should do...well, not nothing. We'll see.
I've got a 40w Creality I'm going to have to give this a shot with. I'm working on a birthday present for a friend of mine and happened to see this just in time to do some experimentation.
Thanks for the video. I am just getting started with lasers, I bought my first one yesterday the xtool s1. I am a holster, belt and wallet builder, my question is can you just scan an existing pattern into the software and cut it to scale? I am struggling to find a video on this topic.
Congrats on the new laser! I hope it works well for you. xTool makes some nice looking laser options. Regarding getting patterns into the software, that depends on the software you're using. I typically scan my hand drawn patterns and import them into Adobe Illustrator. My scanner scans at 300ppi, and Illustrator imports it to scale. Then I just trace the linework and break it apart into the individual pattern pieces. The capabilities of the laser manufacturer's software will vary from brand to brand, but I doubt most of them will directly convert a scanned (raster) graphic into a cuttable (vector) pattern. That may be a question for the xTool owners forum / message board.
Adam this is really nice. My question is more about the running of your laser. You run two passes, what I'm wondering is do you run the second pass at a reduced power? If so how much do you reduce it by. This would be my first time engraving on black cast acrylic. I'm sure I'll be back with leather questions 🤪
Thank you! The speed and power settings are noted in the video description. My machine is 150 watts. What wattage is your machine? I’m terrible at math, but if your machine is 75 watts, you could double the power, or decrease the speed by half. Adjust your power settings by whatever percentage difference your machine is, test and tweak as necessary.
That's awesome. Love the video as well, so the acrylic is 1/8" thick? Do you think maybe a bit thicker material and deeper engrave would be a better result? Where can I get some acrylic, I didn't know if brass stamps are expensive? Rather do them myself if possible. Thanks
I love it! But just a (stupid) question, what are the settings to cut the shape out at the end after the cleaning? just starting with laser engraving..
Power and speed settings will vary by each machine, but this website has good starting points. I tend to use a little less power to help prolong tube life, and less power means slower speeds. Refer to the thickness noted, and adjust power/speed accordingly if you’re using a different thickness. bosslaser.com/laser-settings/
Thank you! Great to hear. I figure there's more and more people out there buying 3D printers, CNC machines, lasers, etc. to compliment their 'maker arsenal', so nice to hear some people are enjoying vids like these. Take care, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Lee - some people really geek out on lasers. I know just enough to be dangerous. My laser focal length is, I believe 2.5”. Shorter focusing lenses have better engraving quality, at the expense of cutting ability. Small step over equals better engraving detail. Make sure your mirrors are all correctly aligned and clean. Make sure you’re using the correct focusing distance. If you’re not sure, you can do a “ramp test” pretty quickly and easily to see where your machine works best. Lower power output will reduce the depth, but will keep the engraving cleaner looking. Don’t push the speed any higher than your machine is calibrated for. I don’t typically go any higher than 350mm/s. And make sure your lens is oriented correctly - flat side down, curved side up.
My current laser is a 150 watt CO2 from Bescutter. Johnathan Katz Moses did a review of the same machine on TH-cam. bescutter.com/collections/co2-laser-cutter-and-engraver/products/versa-force-52x36-co2-laser-cutter-engraver-150w-free-shipping
Hi Jeremy - I believe it's a standard feature with most laser operating software, but ramp engraving is a feature that tapers the power up/down around the edges of the artwork. By using lower power around the edge of the artwork, it engraves with the minimum programmed power (less deep), and as it moves away from the artwork it engraves with increasingly more power (more deep) until the maximum programmed power is reached. Ramp engraving basically creates a shoulder around the engraving to help reinforce or brace the vertical edges of the stamp.
Yes Dahna it will work, because gold foil need only 90º C to adhere, and acrylic melts above that temperature (like 130º), so you have a 40º C security zone.
Sometimes, yes. The leather has to be perfectly flat, which can be difficult without a honeycomb bed (which I don't usually have installed). And it really needs to be masked to prevent discoloring the surface. I've seen some folks dampen the leather prior to cutting with a laser, which seems to help, but I haven't tried that yet.
I haven't tried anything like that with stamps, but I don't imagine it would work very well. You'd have to increase contrast to eliminate the mid-tones, so the final result is essentially a black/white photo, with no shades of gray.
In the comparison clip at the end, "AC" denotes the impression was made with the Acrylic stamp, and "BR" was made from the Brass stamp. And CNC stands for Computer Numerical Control - basically a fancy router machine that can carve designs with precise depth control, and typically very expensive. The brass stamps in this video weren't very expensive to have made, but for those of us with lasers, this is a nice option for a stamp that might only be used a few times.
I haven't tried anything that big. I assume it should be possible, provided you use a sufficient backer material to protect the stamp from flexing, and assuming your press is powerful enough to provide enough pressure over that large of a surface area.
Thanks Jerry! I was impressed with the output as well. I only have 1/8" material on-hand and never really considered using it for stamps like this, but glad I finally gave it a try. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Well yes, but it was $13,000 new, and I bought it used from a friend with a very steep discount (half price) because he needed it gone asap. I was only able to purchase it because I sold my previous laser for more than I bought it for (which I also bought used locally). Buy used, save big!
My laser is from www.bescutter.com. There are cheaper options though, such as Xtool, Ortur, Glowforge, etc... These smaller models and others like them should be able to produce stamps just like these, though they will be a little slower usually.
Mine, yes. But there are much cheaper options for lasers. It’s a tool, and they all cost money. A decent 3d printer could probably accomplish the same thing, for substantially less money.
I just ran my first stamp on an 80w machine. Exact same settings as yours, it came out perfectly. Thanks so much for the video.
Hi there! Would you be willing to give me some advise on settings for a 40w machine on MDF.
Awesome stuff. I 3 D Print some embossing stamps, and found that an added border wall keeps them from collapsing.
Do you have a video on how to Ramp the engraving?
Definitely amazing work you are doing!!
Thank You for Your Time!!!
This answers my question about lasered plastic leather stamps, they do work. Be interesting to try the diode lasers on black acrylic.
It does work with diode laser on black acrylic. I've cut a few for a local leather worker. Not sure how long they will last yet.
@@dvalinut Thanks, good to know. Found out Brass is heated to boiling water point for book leather pressing. Some plastic can withstand boiling water. For single book title embossing plastic might be good enough. Small run prints etc.
I did this before with laser engraver but I use aluminum and the result is supper good, you can also use brass with laser engraver.
I doubt a CO2 engraver could do that. He would need fiber
Yes, I have 1 co2 and 1 fiber. I user fiber for metal engraving@@altar7885
What kind of engraver do you have?
@@madwilliamflint I use fiber not co2
@@DrakeLe God I want a nice fiber so bad. I'm using a 40w led at the moment. I'm gonna run some experiments with this tomorrow on mine. I've got a ton of acrylic for a project I'm never gonna get to. Gonna try masking with flat black krylon. Should do...well, not nothing. We'll see.
I've got a 40w Creality I'm going to have to give this a shot with. I'm working on a birthday present for a friend of mine and happened to see this just in time to do some experimentation.
Hi there! I also have the 40w Creality and am very new to laser engraving. I am just wondering if you tried this and how it turned out.
Thanks so much for this! and definitely thank you for keeping it simple and straight to the point.
If you're a diy'er then perhaps use a vice to apply pressure where you cannot justify a press.
Super cool! Thank you for sharing, love your video!
Excellent craftsmanship ! How much pressure did you apply? Greetings from germany !
Stamps came out great. Do you make custom stamps for individual's? ✌
Thanks Mark! Send me a message via my website and we can discuss what you need. www.adamsleatherworks.com
Thanks for the video. I am just getting started with lasers, I bought my first one yesterday the xtool s1. I am a holster, belt and wallet builder, my question is can you just scan an existing pattern into the software and cut it to scale? I am struggling to find a video on this topic.
Congrats on the new laser! I hope it works well for you. xTool makes some nice looking laser options. Regarding getting patterns into the software, that depends on the software you're using. I typically scan my hand drawn patterns and import them into Adobe Illustrator. My scanner scans at 300ppi, and Illustrator imports it to scale. Then I just trace the linework and break it apart into the individual pattern pieces. The capabilities of the laser manufacturer's software will vary from brand to brand, but I doubt most of them will directly convert a scanned (raster) graphic into a cuttable (vector) pattern. That may be a question for the xTool owners forum / message board.
Adam this is really nice. My question is more about the running of your laser. You run two passes, what I'm wondering is do you run the second pass at a reduced power? If so how much do you reduce it by. This would be my first time engraving on black cast acrylic. I'm sure I'll be back with leather questions 🤪
Thank you! The speed and power settings are noted in the video description. My machine is 150 watts. What wattage is your machine? I’m terrible at math, but if your machine is 75 watts, you could double the power, or decrease the speed by half. Adjust your power settings by whatever percentage difference your machine is, test and tweak as necessary.
That's awesome. Love the video as well, so the acrylic is 1/8" thick? Do you think maybe a bit thicker material and deeper engrave would be a better result? Where can I get some acrylic, I didn't know if brass stamps are expensive? Rather do them myself if possible. Thanks
You think WAX stamp we can do from acrylic ?!
I love it! But just a (stupid) question, what are the settings to cut the shape out at the end after the cleaning? just starting with laser engraving..
Power and speed settings will vary by each machine, but this website has good starting points. I tend to use a little less power to help prolong tube life, and less power means slower speeds. Refer to the thickness noted, and adjust power/speed accordingly if you’re using a different thickness.
bosslaser.com/laser-settings/
Thanks you for your reply and the website!@@AdamsLeatherWorks
Made my stamp to exact pdf file that was sent. Beautiful work and amazing customer service!!!
@Adams LeatherWorks do you do custom stamp plates or metal emblems for bags for someone working with synthetic leather?
Is it possible to make hot foil stamping dies plates with CO2 laser engraving machine instead of CNC and with what kind of materials?
This is amazing! You continue to inspire and motivate me.
Thank you! Great to hear. I figure there's more and more people out there buying 3D printers, CNC machines, lasers, etc. to compliment their 'maker arsenal', so nice to hear some people are enjoying vids like these. Take care, and thanks for watching and commenting!
What engraving machine are you using I like it
It’s the same one shown in this video. th-cam.com/video/nsPuL7cfEic/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GVq8SOul4_EbFGUa
Where did you find the stainless steel sleeve for the bottom of the ram on you 6T press?
Wow! The acrylic stamps are almost as good as the brass ones, I'm impressed! What machine are you using to press the stamps into the leather?
Nevermind I found the press on one of your other videos. I might try it out for myself, thanks for the idea! Your work is incredible, btw!
@@jinnie1108 Thank you, and glad you found the other video!
Id love to know how you get such a clean engraving on the laser.
Hi Lee - some people really geek out on lasers. I know just enough to be dangerous. My laser focal length is, I believe 2.5”. Shorter focusing lenses have better engraving quality, at the expense of cutting ability. Small step over equals better engraving detail. Make sure your mirrors are all correctly aligned and clean. Make sure you’re using the correct focusing distance. If you’re not sure, you can do a “ramp test” pretty quickly and easily to see where your machine works best. Lower power output will reduce the depth, but will keep the engraving cleaner looking. Don’t push the speed any higher than your machine is calibrated for. I don’t typically go any higher than 350mm/s. And make sure your lens is oriented correctly - flat side down, curved side up.
Beautiful work!
Thank you!
Can these be used in an embossing machine for card making?
Wow 150 watt power?
These look fabulous!
Where do I put my order
Stick box for emboss painting y kese banega
For longevity, do you think the brass will wear better than the acrylic and keep its detail longer?
Yes the brass is better for repeated use. Acrylic is brittle and the details will eventually wear down.
Would you share information on the equipment that you use?
My current laser is a 150 watt CO2 from Bescutter. Johnathan Katz Moses did a review of the same machine on TH-cam. bescutter.com/collections/co2-laser-cutter-and-engraver/products/versa-force-52x36-co2-laser-cutter-engraver-150w-free-shipping
What do you mean by 'ramp' engraving? Thanks in advance!
Hi Jeremy - I believe it's a standard feature with most laser operating software, but ramp engraving is a feature that tapers the power up/down around the edges of the artwork. By using lower power around the edge of the artwork, it engraves with the minimum programmed power (less deep), and as it moves away from the artwork it engraves with increasingly more power (more deep) until the maximum programmed power is reached. Ramp engraving basically creates a shoulder around the engraving to help reinforce or brace the vertical edges of the stamp.
Can you heat those acrylic stamps like for gold foil stamping?
I’m not sure, but I doubt it. The melting point of acrylic is 130°C (266°F).
Yes Dahna it will work, because gold foil need only 90º C to adhere, and acrylic melts above that temperature (like 130º), so you have a 40º C security zone.
Can a 40w co2 engraver do this type of work?
It should be able to - it’ll just be slower, and/or run at higher power settings.
Have anyone tried this to stamp on leather with direct laser engraved already for darker result?
Beautiful
Do you cut the leather with the laser as well?
Sometimes, yes. The leather has to be perfectly flat, which can be difficult without a honeycomb bed (which I don't usually have installed). And it really needs to be masked to prevent discoloring the surface. I've seen some folks dampen the leather prior to cutting with a laser, which seems to help, but I haven't tried that yet.
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. :)@@AdamsLeatherWorks
can fiber laser do that ?
how can you make it with a big picture for a bag?
I haven't tried anything like that with stamps, but I don't imagine it would work very well. You'd have to increase contrast to eliminate the mid-tones, so the final result is essentially a black/white photo, with no shades of gray.
Cool video! What machine do you use at 1:50 ?
Thank you - that's a bench top press that I bought from Harbor Freight. I show it (and the upgrades) here. th-cam.com/video/-EF9Z2rGkqI/w-d-xo.html
@@AdamsLeatherWorks thank you for replying quickly :)
Excellent
Thank you.
What do AC, BR and CNC mean?
In the comparison clip at the end, "AC" denotes the impression was made with the Acrylic stamp, and "BR" was made from the Brass stamp. And CNC stands for Computer Numerical Control - basically a fancy router machine that can carve designs with precise depth control, and typically very expensive. The brass stamps in this video weren't very expensive to have made, but for those of us with lasers, this is a nice option for a stamp that might only be used a few times.
Incredible.
WOW!
Would this be possible with a die 6"x3" ?
I haven't tried anything that big. I assume it should be possible, provided you use a sufficient backer material to protect the stamp from flexing, and assuming your press is powerful enough to provide enough pressure over that large of a surface area.
Y kese banega
That is so cool 😎
Nice!
Very cool.
Impressive !!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Jerry! I was impressed with the output as well. I only have 1/8" material on-hand and never really considered using it for stamps like this, but glad I finally gave it a try. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You’re making me want to spend some money
LOL! Thank you for watching and commenting. Let me know if you ever have any questions about lasers or cnc.
Did you buy a 20,000.00 USD laser printer?
Well yes, but it was $13,000 new, and I bought it used from a friend with a very steep discount (half price) because he needed it gone asap. I was only able to purchase it because I sold my previous laser for more than I bought it for (which I also bought used locally). Buy used, save big!
How can I get the machine?
My laser is from www.bescutter.com. There are cheaper options though, such as Xtool, Ortur, Glowforge, etc... These smaller models and others like them should be able to produce stamps just like these, though they will be a little slower usually.
Whats that u are using to press?
It’s a cheap hydraulic press. I have a video about it. My New Bench Press & Brass Maker Stamps!
th-cam.com/video/-EF9Z2rGkqI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks alot
Why nothing about the file?
I need
Show .
10 grand for the laser…
Mine, yes. But there are much cheaper options for lasers. It’s a tool, and they all cost money. A decent 3d printer could probably accomplish the same thing, for substantially less money.
@@AdamsLeatherWorks thanks, I’ll look into them.
Diy but you need a fucking laser engraver 😂😂😂😂
and that model is around 10.000$