Just finished rear brakes and rotors thanks to this video! Everything was straightforward. I did opt to use the Toyota pink grease (lithium soap base glycol grease) on the caliper slide pins, as that's what is called for in the service manual. I've heard stories of people having bad experiences w/ their calipers binding up using the wrong grease on those slide pins.
incredible job, very well explained throughout the video, very helpful. I think you are missing a couple of digits on the number of subscribers. Appreciate your hard work!
To prevent someone from struggling for 8 additional hours like I did, when you find yourself constantly turning the “key hole” on the rear rotor to remove it, and it won’t pop off, your rotor could be rusted to the axle like mine was. A few hits with the rubber mallet and I finally got it off only feeling slightly like a complete idiot
Thanks for finishing up the job. Is the improvement noticeable? Also, please let us know if these pads create more or less brake dust compared to the OEM.
Thanks, will do. So far the improvement is noticeable, but I’ll report back once they break in. I’ve read they create less dust but we’ll see about that as well
I can’t thank you enough for this guide man! Just got one of my rear sides done with rotors. I’m slowly starting to do everything myself to help save some money in labor costs for myself
@@perryleleux2637 The first one took me like, 30-45 minutes or so? The back I was struggling with the emergency brake adjustment. And thinking back I still need to adjust them tighter, I just forgot about it until now
@@perryleleux2637 And mine were kinda rusted on so I had to smack them with a sledge to get them to break free. I sprayed some PB blaster and let it soak for a bit before doing that
I think the small rubber piece for the top slide pin is meant to let air out. I noticed that just by pushing the top slide pin into the caliper bracket without installing it on the car it will slide back out due to trapped air. I installed the small rubber piece last to insure there was no air.
You're awesome. I just checked mine and they need to be replaced all around. I'm assuming these instructions apply for the front as well? Mostly besists the e brake part.
You missed something when taking the rotor off. Mine was seized on the axle. Spray around the opening with penetrant. Then thread some small bolts through those threaded holes on the rotor evenly until it breaks it free.
I was trying to create these videos as a 3 part series. I mentioned it in video 1 where I did the front brakes but you're right I probably should have mentioned it again in this video for those that are only doing rear brakes. Cheers
@@T4Rgarage Also not sure if you have another video on flushing fluid. I was surprised to discover that the rear's flush out easily via a procedure which uses an onboard pump. Guessing it's part of the abs or traction control system, serving another purpose to push out old fluid. Not sure if the fronts can flush the same.
can and should i put fluid film on the calipers when i do the brake job? does the rust matter or will fluid film just collect debris. or should i sand blast them and paint them or should i not worry about it and do nothing? im a car novice and appreciate your channel. I am learning a lot and have done multiple things that i never wouldve tried. you took the fear of doing my own work away. i always assumed it was difficult but its really just common sense. thanks!!
@@donphillips4492 Hey Don, Happy to hear you’re taking on your own maintenance. As for the calipers, I’d personally just leave them. You don’t want fluid film on your brakes and you’re right, it will collect more dirt and dust
Very nicely done straight forward video. Wanted to ask about wheel lug torque. I have torqued the lugs on my 2007 FJ Cruiser to 85 lbs since new however my wifes Gen 5 4 Runner calls for 76 lbs. Somewhere on the web I read something about Toyota changing the lug torque specs in 2014. The dealer says 82. Any thoughts? My old 2000 4 Runner is speced at 83 lbs. Thanks!
Great video, so detailed! Im planning to do this tomorrow, just finished gathering all the parts. for the rears do both rear wheels need to be off the ground, I know probably ideal but could I do one rear wheel at a time and still be able to spin the rotor to align for parking brake adjustment?
Thanks for the video! I replaced all 4 rotors and pads and the rear seems to be scraping / grinding a good bit. Did you have any issues with this for a bit after changing these?
@@TaylorLockhart-n2t No there must be something wrong, I’d go back and check your work. Are the pads in the correct orientation? Are the shims installed correctly?
I thought the same thing, but realistically, the parking brake isn’t actually stopping the vehicle, so wouldn’t be worn like a regular brake shoe. It just holds the vehicle in place once stopped.
Great video. For the parking brake assembly, did you do this job with the parking brake engaged or no? I just want to make sure I don’t mess up the parking brake assembly when putting the rotors back on.
You’ll need to have the parking brake disengaged throughout the job. You will not be able to remove the rotor if the parking brake is on. Make sure to block the front tires. Hope that helps, thanks
what if you try to bleed the brake line and get no pressure? i got the install all done but added fluid and am getting no response when trying to bleed
When do you recommend replacing the rear and front rotors with after market? I have 40K (on my 2020 TRD OFFOR 4runner) and the dealership already recommend to replaced my rear brakes.
So far so good! No vibrations, warping, brakes really well. I have noticed that if I go through a water when off-roading the brakes make a strange humming/rubbing sound but this only lasts like 5 Minutes then they return to normal
No worries! Adjust it as shown in the video by turning the wheel with a flathead screwdriver. If you loosened it you need to tighten it back up. Tighten it until you cannot move the drum then back out a bit
What grease did you use on different parts? Could you please mention all tools and grease required? I’m doing my brakes and I’ve never done it before. Thanks
@@T4Rgarage thanks! are these ceramic brake pads? would you recommend these brakes if I’m not towing anything? For general use and occasional gravel off roading.
@@s.hughes795 Still running it and it’s been great. No issues or warping and love them. Make sure your slide pins are well lubed and in great shape/no rust. This is something I wish I had reinforced more in the video. Let me know if you have any questions
@@laneallenofficial is the wheel moving? Sometimes they can get seized. If the wheel is moving and it’s disengaged, you might need to run M8 1.25 bolts through the face of the rotor. There are two spots that are threaded for this purpose. The bolts will push and pop the rotor free
@ yes, it is disengaged. i tried putting it in neutral to see if that would help and no luck. I looked inside the little peep hole and it kinda looks like a spring behind it. i turned the wheel around and kept looking and i saw what kinda looked like an actual button and tried that as well
@@saudade3358 if it’s loose you should be able to get it off unless it’s stuck on there. If it’s stuck on the there you might want to wack the rotor with a rubber mallet. If that doesn’t free it there are holes you can run an m8 1.25 bolt into to pop it off. Those threaded holes on the rotor are there for that exact reason
That adjuster is a bitch my on my 4Runner it doesn’t line up like yours so I have no way to tell what direction that wheel needs to spin to pop that rotor off . I hate this design!
Just finished rear brakes and rotors thanks to this video! Everything was straightforward. I did opt to use the Toyota pink grease (lithium soap base glycol grease) on the caliper slide pins, as that's what is called for in the service manual. I've heard stories of people having bad experiences w/ their calipers binding up using the wrong grease on those slide pins.
Good to know! Thanks for sharing
incredible job, very well explained throughout the video, very helpful. I think you are missing a couple of digits on the number of subscribers. Appreciate your hard work!
Anytime Brakekleen is used on screen, a sound effect should accompany it. It would make Eric O very happy! Thanks for such great vidoes!
Excellent detailed straight forward video, much appreciated.
Great video no fluff, easy to follow THANK YOU! keep it up!
Awesome work man. Straight to the point clear and consice . Thank you and all the best!
Appreciate this video, I'm going to do the rear pads and rotors on the rear tomorrow .
7:00 is exactly what i needed to see, thanks!
Do you need to adjust that wheel if the emergency brake is off?
@@ricc7665no if the e brake is off the rotor comes right off.
To prevent someone from struggling for 8 additional hours like I did, when you find yourself constantly turning the “key hole” on the rear rotor to remove it, and it won’t pop off, your rotor could be rusted to the axle like mine was. A few hits with the rubber mallet and I finally got it off only feeling slightly like a complete idiot
Solid tutorial. Just put some basic Duralast rotors and brakes on. I r down them before but always good to visit a quick how to. Thanks!
Thank you! I just installed front and rear brakes and drums! You saved me $400!
Thanks for the tip on the brake adjustment, that helped.
Dude, that was an awesome instructional video!!! Thank you!
Thanks for finishing up the job. Is the improvement noticeable? Also, please let us know if these pads create more or less brake dust compared to the OEM.
Thanks, will do. So far the improvement is noticeable, but I’ll report back once they break in. I’ve read they create less dust but we’ll see about that as well
I can’t thank you enough for this guide man! Just got one of my rear sides done with rotors. I’m slowly starting to do everything myself to help save some money in labor costs for myself
How long did it take to do one side? I’m also a newb and and doing my own brakes after being quoted 1.1k
@@perryleleux2637 The first one took me like, 30-45 minutes or so? The back I was struggling with the emergency brake adjustment. And thinking back I still need to adjust them tighter, I just forgot about it until now
@@perryleleux2637 And mine were kinda rusted on so I had to smack them with a sledge to get them to break free. I sprayed some PB blaster and let it soak for a bit before doing that
Any recommendations on a torque wrench? Going to get one for this job as well as for torquing my tires
@@perryleleux2637 I use this one, I like it amzn.to/4aALAyD
@@T4Rgaragewhich one, the 10-150 or 25-250?
I think the small rubber piece for the top slide pin is meant to let air out. I noticed that just by pushing the top slide pin into the caliper bracket without installing it on the car it will slide back out due to trapped air. I installed the small rubber piece last to insure there was no air.
Thank you for the video, why did you buy that brand instead of genuine parts?
You're awesome. I just checked mine and they need to be replaced all around. I'm assuming these instructions apply for the front as well? Mostly besists the e brake part.
You missed something when taking the rotor off. Mine was seized on the axle. Spray around the opening with penetrant. Then thread some small bolts through those threaded holes on the rotor evenly until it breaks it free.
I was trying to create these videos as a 3 part series. I mentioned it in video 1 where I did the front brakes but you're right I probably should have mentioned it again in this video for those that are only doing rear brakes. Cheers
@@T4Rgarage Also not sure if you have another video on flushing fluid. I was surprised to discover that the rear's flush out easily via a procedure which uses an onboard pump. Guessing it's part of the abs or traction control system, serving another purpose to push out old fluid. Not sure if the fronts can flush the same.
can and should i put fluid film on the calipers when i do the brake job? does the rust matter or will fluid film just collect debris. or should i sand blast them and paint them or should i not worry about it and do nothing? im a car novice and appreciate your channel. I am learning a lot and have done multiple things that i never wouldve tried. you took the fear of doing my own work away. i always assumed it was difficult but its really just common sense. thanks!!
@@donphillips4492 Hey Don, Happy to hear you’re taking on your own maintenance. As for the calipers, I’d personally just leave them. You don’t want fluid film on your brakes and you’re right, it will collect more dirt and dust
@@T4Rgarage Thanks for reply
Thanks bro explaining everything
Very nicely done straight forward video. Wanted to ask about wheel lug torque. I have torqued the lugs on my 2007 FJ Cruiser to 85 lbs since new however my wifes Gen 5 4 Runner calls for 76 lbs. Somewhere on the web I read something about Toyota changing the lug torque specs in 2014. The dealer says 82. Any thoughts? My old 2000 4 Runner is speced at 83 lbs. Thanks!
Depends on the rims. The steel are 85 ft lbs, the aluminum (TRD Pro) rims are 76 ft lbs
Great video, so detailed! Im planning to do this tomorrow, just finished gathering all the parts. for the rears do both rear wheels need to be off the ground, I know probably ideal but could I do one rear wheel at a time and still be able to spin the rotor to align for parking brake adjustment?
Awesome! Looking forward to more videos! 😎
Thanks for the video! I replaced all 4 rotors and pads and the rear seems to be scraping / grinding a good bit. Did you have any issues with this for a bit after changing these?
@@TaylorLockhart-n2t No there must be something wrong, I’d go back and check your work. Are the pads in the correct orientation? Are the shims installed correctly?
Do any of these newer 4Runners have the electronic rear brake system?
I’ve heard some issues with these rotors warping. Is this something you’ve experienced?
@@perryleleux2637 the stock rotors were worse in my experience. No warping so far with the power stops
@ where about are you located? I’m just concerned because I keep reading about people’s brake warping at 15k or less for these guys
@ I live in the Pacific Northwest so a lot of hills and big puddles
Really nice job on this vid. Thanks!
Great video, but why not replace parking brake shoes at the same time?
I thought the same thing, but realistically, the parking brake isn’t actually stopping the vehicle, so wouldn’t be worn like a regular brake shoe. It just holds the vehicle in place once stopped.
Great video. For the parking brake assembly, did you do this job with the parking brake engaged or no? I just want to make sure I don’t mess up the parking brake assembly when putting the rotors back on.
You’ll need to have the parking brake disengaged throughout the job. You will not be able to remove the rotor if the parking brake is on. Make sure to block the front tires. Hope that helps, thanks
@@T4Rgarage awesome! Thanks so much. Keep up the great content!
Did you put the transmission in neutral as well? Or just make sure parking brake is disengaged. Thanks - good video@@T4Rgarage
@@jmjones1060 Thank you! I had the vehicle in Park
lmao.. just think about what you asked
what if you try to bleed the brake line and get no pressure? i got the install all done but added fluid and am getting no response when trying to bleed
When do you recommend replacing the rear and front rotors with after market? I have 40K (on my 2020 TRD OFFOR 4runner) and the dealership already recommend to replaced my rear brakes.
That sounds right. The rears wear down about twice as fast as the fronts in these 4runners
Long term thoughts over OEM brakes and rotors?
So far so good! No vibrations, warping, brakes really well. I have noticed that if I go through a water when off-roading the brakes make a strange humming/rubbing sound but this only lasts like 5 Minutes then they return to normal
Thank you
Thank U 🙏🏾
LC From Chicago 😎
Thanks man!... HOw can I Adjust the parking brake? Mine seems to not hold the weight when on a hard angle.
No worries! Adjust it as shown in the video by turning the wheel with a flathead screwdriver. If you loosened it you need to tighten it back up. Tighten it until you cannot move the drum then back out a bit
What grease did you use on different parts?
Could you please mention all tools and grease required? I’m doing my brakes and I’ve never done it before. Thanks
I just used a generic brake grease, apart from that I think I mentioned all the tools. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions as you go
@@T4Rgarage thanks! are these ceramic brake pads? would you recommend these brakes if I’m not towing anything? For general use and occasional gravel off roading.
@@ruchirsajwan They are fantastic, and I think they would be perfect for what you are doing. Yes they are ceramic
Not sure how the brake kit is holding up, but I’m curious. I’m looking at picking up the same kit. Would you recommend?
@@s.hughes795 Still running it and it’s been great. No issues or warping and love them. Make sure your slide pins are well lubed and in great shape/no rust. This is something I wish I had reinforced more in the video. Let me know if you have any questions
How are these holding up after 10mo? Any warping or unwanted characteristics developing? Planning to get a set myself.
So far so good! No warping. Was just down in Utah and vehicle was likely over GVWR and brakes performed well
Great job on the video no bullshit just here's the fix - competent...sometimes that's a hard quality to find in these videos
having trouble disengaging the parking brake to remove the caliper. any tips?
E brake i mean. The peep hole @ 6 o’clock position. rolling the wheel down but can’t get it to free up the rotor
@@laneallenofficial is the wheel moving? Sometimes they can get seized. If the wheel is moving and it’s disengaged, you might need to run M8 1.25 bolts through the face of the rotor. There are two spots that are threaded for this purpose. The bolts will push and pop the rotor free
@ no, the wheel won’t rotate.
i can feel the little button clicking downward but the wheel won’t rotate after
@@laneallenofficial Is the e-brake disengaged inside the vehicle?
@ yes, it is disengaged. i tried putting it in neutral to see if that would help and no luck. I looked inside the little peep hole and it kinda looks like a spring behind it. i turned the wheel around and kept looking and i saw what kinda looked like an actual button and tried that as well
Great vid, thanks. Why did you choose not to get their calipers also?
I am hoping this is all I really need. If not, maybe I’ll try upgrading the calipers
Good video
74lbs bolts and 65lbs pins lug nuts 85lbs tor
Thank you
I still don't know why one slide pin gets a full boot and the other doesn't.
Don’t know what to do, can’t rotate the spring inside to remove the e brake
@@saudade3358 if it’s loose you should be able to get it off unless it’s stuck on there. If it’s stuck on the there you might want to wack the rotor with a rubber mallet. If that doesn’t free it there are holes you can run an m8 1.25 bolt into to pop it off. Those threaded holes on the rotor are there for that exact reason
@@T4Rgarage the problem is I litterally cannot rotate the spring, it’s like a gear, and no matter what flat head or tool I use, it won’t rotate down
@@saudade3358 is your e-brake on in the vehicle?
@@T4Rgarage no
I had the same issue, I used degreaser and WD-40 silicone to break it loose
What kind of jack stands do you use.?
Oem is best. Japanese made oem.
That adjuster is a bitch my on my 4Runner it doesn’t line up like yours so I have no way to tell what direction that wheel needs to spin to pop that rotor off . I hate this design!
Amazing video! Thanks for sharing 🤘🏼