Make sure that you run your saddle all the way to the crank end before tightening the cover plate cap screws. This puts the shaft and the end bearings on the same axis. Same thing for the table: run the table to each end and tighten the cover plate (bearing carrier plate) at that end. Keep up the good work.
I didn't see it in any of the comments I read through. but for the Y axis Nut, You Don't have to remove the screw. Put the Y axis at it's middle or all the way back. Remove the 4 cap screws that hold the Bearing housing in place. then use a bit of manual force to Slide the Y axis Out towards the front of the machine. The Yoke / Nut Bracket will now be close to the front opening, and you can make the adjustment Push the Y axis back till you are close to the housing making contact. rotate the handle to fit the housing and put the cap screws back in. Test, and Repeat till you get it adjusted.
Thank you for time to make video ... I am new Machinist .and I bought PORT not knowing about this setting. so when I got machine was Huge gap in X axis . I will rebuild eventually . trying adjustment today
Extremely helpful. I picked up a 90s enco (I know not a Bridgeport) and there's a some slop in the table and a bunch of play in the backlash I need to get rid of so this video is just what I was looking for. Thanks.
Been a Machinist for almost 40 and in machine building and repair . and yes the Y axis is a little tricky you have to creep up on it. also when I do it I wash out the nut with cleaner and the screw also and coat everything with Way lube . nothing will kill those Nuts quicker than Dirt, Chips, and no Oil . spoke to a Bridgeport service Man when I was younger and he said .005 - .007 Backlash was what they set the machines to also
Hi Greg. Now bearings I do know a bit about. Taught by my late Dad. I saw the error, but also saw the minimum amount of force being used, so, no, no meaningful damage as you said. More importantly, please DO keep on leaving in the errors. I am sure some edit them out when reported. By leaving them in others can learn (provided they are pointed out, of course). There are nice ways of drawing newbies attention to them and you can see that from your kinder viewers, and of course you pick up on them and cover in the intro. Wish I had a Bridgeport! Fascinating series and I look forward to the regular updates with anticipation. Right, 'nuff said, back to watching !Bob.
Abought the only thing I'll add is to get a lot more life out of the ways move your head over periodically and move vice to match. Most people never do and all the wear is in the middle.
Congratulations on the upcoming wedding. I figured with your day job you already knew about only pressing on a bearings outer race. If you didn't have the perfect sized tool to fit the race then that was a fairly light press fit on a slow rpm light duty bearing application. But many who might not know can learn from all the comments as well. So I think it was a good thing a few mentioned it. Just not a good idea with the heads spindle bearings to do the same though for anyone who doesn't know. :-) Some low backlash numbers you managed to get as well. I believe brand new non CNC Bridgeports with ACME screws have around .004" once there considered properly adjusted. So given the amount you managed to adjust down to and the condition of the flaking, my guess is that mill was well maintained and didn't get a whole lot of heavy use from new.
+Turning Point Yeah this was mainly brass, aluminum, and plastic milled on this machine from what I learned of its history. I had to really crank the adjustment screws and they are at their limit so if it ever needs adjusting again then it's time to split the nuts.
All good stuff to know, or at least be reminded of. My last involvement with that was 35 years ago, on an old Atlas lathe. I vaguely remember that there was something to do behind the dial that was part (perhaps all?) of the backlash adjustment on it. I assume that those were taken care of when the screw/anchor plate/dial assembly was put together? Just wondering if the book made any mention of that...
Where is the dial indicator? Adjusting Gibbs only by feel is like zeroing a part by eye. You should adjust most mills to approx .0005 so that they still float and have minimum clearance. Gibbs wear like an hour glass so taking an indicator to them on a granite slab will also help you figure out if you need to replace them. Another method is to install a shim, tighten the gibb/s down with a light drag, back off 1/8 turn, or whatever is needed to just slip that shim out and then tighten a quarter turn in from there. It’s much better to utilize the tools in your shop versus by hand. Now I’m not saying you can’t get close but it won’t be accurate. Then again most those smaller mills are not accurate Anyways however I’d want mine to be as close as it could be and give it the longest lifespan it can have.
I always liked you videos, however, ill have to comment on you Y axis. You don't have to take out the Acme screw, just remove the handle and the bearing block to adjust the screw on the yoke i think its less work than removing the Y screw.
What is the issue if u can take the y axis slide and if u push and pull on it, it moves back and forth about 1/8 inch?....too juch play ...it uses an acme screw....
Hi mate. Every time you walk into the shop, do you still have the feeling, that very nice mill is mine. I love to see all the oil on the ways, that machine will not ware on your watch, that's clear. Again congratulations.
Congrats on the wedding and the mill acquisition! Looks like 2016 is going to be a good year for you.Have you seen NYC CNC video on air powered draw bar attachment. Would be a good project if you have enough head room.
+Kendall Comeaux Not quite enough head room for me plus my air supply is a compressor I built. I may try to engineer an electric version though. We will see.
What about the back lash / float in the spindle it self ? By that I mean the last thing you refitted. The square plate with the 4 allen screws and the engraved dial. You can tighten up the nut as much as you like and if this has float you will still get a reading on your dial. My Adcock and Shipley (built Bridgeports at one time so "family") has a thrust ball bearing and a pair of lock nuts to adjust this separately behind the crank handle. This needs to be adjusted 1st !
Been waiting on the adjustment video (thank you very much). My old mill has about a full turn of backlash in the in/out axis. Hoping most of it will adjust out, but didn't know how to get to the adjuster. Wondering if you can pull the brass acme nut out through the hole if it is necessary to replace it or split it? I have a DRO so I guess it's not that big of a deal... but I want to see if I can do something about it anyway.
+DSCKy Yes the brass nut is a slight press fit. All that is holding it in is the backlash adjustment screw and there is a key to keep it from rotating in the housing.
Greg awesome video! My mill came with a broken Cam Rod Sleeve on the power feed. So it won't stay engaged. I found it broken when I inspected it... the seller promised to fix it before he shipped it, and I guess he neglected to do so. Well I'm not shipping it back haha. I think the solder just came loose on it. Do you have a video that shows how to get that assembly out so I can fix it? Thanks!
th-cam.com/video/hUzWiI1aGyI/w-d-xo.html Pretty much the guts of the power feed unit. While you have it apart I suggest you replace the shaft seal and add some silicone gasket to the matind surface of the motor to the gear housing to prevent oil leaks.
Take the old bearings apart, make a split ring of which ever race you need and it makes a perfect press ring. It's the perfect size and won't stick in a hole because it's split.
I have a Bridgeport j-head I bought a few years back that does not have the automatic oil feed system on it....someone used the zerk fittings for dumping grease into it...still haven't taken it apart yet to clean and adjust it up yet as at the time I was busy with work , now have no job due to a shop closing and where I worked our lathes are being shipped to guess where? Mexico. But at least my old company hires me from time to time as a field tech (contractor) to help them remove machinery. We had a bullard 36" cutmaster vtl at work that over the years the lube zerks were pumped with grease as well...sad. Keep up the great vid's Bill
Greg, Thanks for the video with you playing with your nuts! LOL! When I get a mill, I will be getting a newer type . . . one that doesn't involve "testicular surgery" to remove excess backlash. ... I thought you were married already, so congrats are involved! I'm always forgetting dates and events so we got married on Valentine's Day so I would forget our anniversary and end up sleeping with the dog! So far, it's worked for 34 years. ... Getting back to your video, it was very instructional. You have a way of explaining things that makes sense. You also got some pretty cool stuff, especially the bottle from James Green. Thanks again for sharing everything. BTW, do we get to meet the Missus on camera? Have a good one! Dave
You mentioned you need to figure out where to put the sticker that was sent to you. I love stickers, but always saved them because you only get one shot at placing them. Now I go to Home Depot and and buy magnetic duct covers ( for blocking off rectangular air vents) They are about 10" x 14" and cost around $5 for a 3 pack. They are in the heating isle near all the duct work parts. Now I put the sticker on them, then cut it out and BOOM........magnetic/move able sticker. If you like the idea, buy some and throw it into one of your videos.
+D.B. Cooper You can by sticker magnets at a craft store like Michael's or Hobby lobby too... in various sizes. The vent blocker may be cheaper though?
oh my split compressed nuts what's next ! btw the bearings light press fit no problems with that as you say its not a moving ( in high speed) shaft so no problem just dont walk funny Giggles
I"m ashamed to admit I've never touched mine (table screw backlash) since I got it, because DRO and lazy. Gibbs seem snug tho. A wiggly table we don't need.
You did damage the bearings although in this application they will run a long time. You forgot to apologize for using the Channellock's. You could have used the old bearing to press in the new one's with no damage.
That is NOT a bourbon whiskey. It's "Rye" whiskey. BIG difference. It is 'the' main whiskey of Canada. Sipping bourbon whiskey is to America as rye whiskey is to Canada. Want a good rye whiskey? Pick up a bottle of Canadian rye. Besides, the exchange rate now for the US dollar is fantastic.
I started as a hobby and watched videos and read books. The last lathe I touched before these videos was in highschool and that was only for a week. I did take a class a few years ago at a local Voc school, but it was mainly to pick the teachers brain and have some mill time as I didn't have one then. It was for a 3 hours 2 days a week for a month and was mainly a go play with the machine type course. I used it to make a thread stop, an indicator holder, and new steady rest fingers for my machine.
Halligan142 cool bro i'm liking the machining stuff to my profession is refrigeration myself but I do like machining work good luck with the restorations
I just picked up a used machine that has excessive backlash in the Y Axis. I'll investigate the problem and determine what I need to do. Maybe splitting the not will be a good fix, or maybe I need a new nut. Either way, I'll get after it!!!
![Bridgebort Milling Machine [Rescue]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zGv7MkdIP_w/mqdefault.jpg)
![Bridgebort Milling Machine [Rescue]](/img/tr.png)
Make sure that you run your saddle all the way to the crank end before tightening the cover plate cap screws. This puts the shaft and the end bearings on the same axis. Same thing for the table: run the table to each end and tighten the cover plate (bearing carrier plate) at that end. Keep up the good work.
I just bought a n old Bridgeport series two today. Great information. Thanks !
That's a really useful and clear video explaining what is needed and how to do it. You clearly make the case for a DRO setup as well.
Great tutorial on how to adjust the gibs Greg. I think a lot of new owners of used mills could benefit from this. Thanks!
I didn't see it in any of the comments I read through.
but for the Y axis Nut, You Don't have to remove the screw.
Put the Y axis at it's middle or all the way back.
Remove the 4 cap screws that hold the Bearing housing in place.
then use a bit of manual force to Slide the Y axis Out towards the front of the machine.
The Yoke / Nut Bracket will now be close to the front opening, and you can make the adjustment
Push the Y axis back till you are close to the housing making contact.
rotate the handle to fit the housing and put the cap screws back in.
Test, and Repeat till you get it adjusted.
Done a good job on that task, thanks for taking us along, will do mine tomorrow.
Nice job with your explanation for your adjustments on your Bridgeport.
Take Care,
Reid
Thank you for time to make video ... I am new Machinist .and I bought PORT not knowing about this setting. so when I got machine was Huge gap in X axis . I will rebuild eventually . trying adjustment today
Extremely helpful. I picked up a 90s enco (I know not a Bridgeport) and there's a some slop in the table and a bunch of play in the backlash I need to get rid of so this video is just what I was looking for. Thanks.
That is one nice machine. Envious here. Thanks for the video.
oh! My heartiest congratulations on the upcoming wedding! Bob
+Robert Hawtin
Thanks !
thank you for the info.
This is an excellent video! Really good work, very detailed, and incredibly helpful! :)
Been a Machinist for almost 40 and in machine building and repair . and yes the Y axis is a little tricky you have to creep up on it. also when I do it I wash out the nut with cleaner and the screw also and coat everything with Way lube . nothing will kill those Nuts quicker than Dirt, Chips, and no Oil . spoke to a Bridgeport service Man when I was younger and he said .005 - .007 Backlash was what they set the machines to also
Excellent information that everyone can use.......Dave
Thanks! Waiting for you to get back up north for more of rebuilding that steam engine :-)
Hi Greg. Now bearings I do know a bit about. Taught by my late Dad. I saw the error, but also saw the minimum amount of force being used, so, no, no meaningful damage as you said. More importantly, please DO keep on leaving in the errors. I am sure some edit them out when reported. By leaving them in others can learn (provided they are pointed out, of course). There are nice ways of drawing newbies attention to them and you can see that from your kinder viewers, and of course you pick up on them and cover in the intro. Wish I had a Bridgeport! Fascinating series and I look forward to the regular updates with anticipation. Right, 'nuff said, back to watching !Bob.
Robert Hawtin I
Thanks for the help. And thanks for the videos. Keep that thick skin. Nobody is perfect.
That inspires me to adjust mine now.
Excellent
Well I am headed out to the shop, I need to adj. my backlash on my old Bridgeport mill
+Ed Ginsberg
:-)
+Halligan142 helped a quite a bit
Abought the only thing I'll add is to get a lot more life out of the ways move your head over periodically and move vice to match.
Most people never do and all the wear is in the middle.
G day Mate, 👍 much appreciated thank you, cheers 🍺🍺
Congratulations on the upcoming wedding.
I figured with your day job you already knew about only pressing on a bearings outer race. If you didn't have the perfect sized tool to fit the race then that was a fairly light press fit on a slow rpm light duty bearing application. But many who might not know can learn from all the comments as well. So I think it was a good thing a few mentioned it. Just not a good idea with the heads spindle bearings to do the same though for anyone who doesn't know. :-)
Some low backlash numbers you managed to get as well. I believe brand new non CNC Bridgeports with ACME screws have around .004" once there considered properly adjusted. So given the amount you managed to adjust down to and the condition of the flaking, my guess is that mill was well maintained and didn't get a whole lot of heavy use from new.
+Turning Point
Yeah this was mainly brass, aluminum, and plastic milled on this machine from what I learned of its history. I had to really crank the adjustment screws and they are at their limit so if it ever needs adjusting again then it's time to split the nuts.
Vraiment bien!
All good stuff to know, or at least be reminded of. My last involvement with that was 35 years ago, on an old Atlas lathe. I vaguely remember that there was something to do behind the dial that was part (perhaps all?) of the backlash adjustment on it. I assume that those were taken care of when the screw/anchor plate/dial assembly was put together? Just wondering if the book made any mention of that...
+diggerop
Yeah as far as I know just like the Southbends you can shim in behind the dial housing to adjust backlash.
Where is the dial indicator? Adjusting Gibbs only by feel is like zeroing a part by eye. You should adjust most mills to approx .0005 so that they still float and have minimum clearance. Gibbs wear like an hour glass so taking an indicator to them on a granite slab will also help you figure out if you need to replace them. Another method is to install a shim, tighten the gibb/s down with a light drag, back off 1/8 turn, or whatever is needed to just slip that shim out and then tighten a quarter turn in from there. It’s much better to utilize the tools in your shop versus by hand. Now I’m not saying you can’t get close but it won’t be accurate. Then again most those smaller mills are not accurate Anyways however I’d want mine to be as close as it could be and give it the longest lifespan it can have.
I always liked you videos, however, ill have to comment on you Y axis. You don't have to take out the Acme screw, just remove the handle and the bearing block to adjust the screw on the yoke i think its less work than removing the Y screw.
What is the issue if u can take the y axis slide and if u push and pull on it, it moves back and forth about 1/8 inch?....too juch play ...it uses an acme screw....
Mine won't adjust. It gets too tight to turn and still has backlash. I guess the acme screw is worn out. Mine has separated nuts.
If the table can still be moved by hand like 1.5mm with a hard push, and it is done up tight, what could be wrong?
Hi mate. Every time you walk into the shop, do you still have the feeling, that very nice mill is mine. I love to see all the oil on the ways, that machine will not ware on your watch, that's clear. Again congratulations.
+Marcel Timmers
Oh I'm an over oiler. Oil is cheap. Machine not so much
I wish the guys at work had that mentality
Congrats on the wedding and the mill acquisition! Looks like 2016 is going to be a good year for you.Have you seen NYC CNC video on air powered draw bar attachment. Would be a good project if you have enough head room.
+Kendall Comeaux
Not quite enough head room for me plus my air supply is a compressor I built. I may try to engineer an electric version though. We will see.
What about the back lash / float in the spindle it self ?
By that I mean the last thing you refitted. The square plate with the 4 allen screws and the engraved dial.
You can tighten up the nut as much as you like and if this has float you will still get a reading on your dial.
My Adcock and Shipley (built Bridgeports at one time so "family") has a thrust ball bearing and a pair of lock nuts to adjust this separately behind the crank handle.
This needs to be adjusted 1st !
That mill looks like the dovetail is in really good shape.
+1970chevelle396
It is pretty good. It has light wear in the center, but has a TON of life left
Been waiting on the adjustment video (thank you very much). My old mill has about a full turn of backlash in the in/out axis. Hoping most of it will adjust out, but didn't know how to get to the adjuster. Wondering if you can pull the brass acme nut out through the hole if it is necessary to replace it or split it? I have a DRO so I guess it's not that big of a deal... but I want to see if I can do something about it anyway.
+DSCKy
Yes the brass nut is a slight press fit. All that is holding it in is the backlash adjustment screw and there is a key to keep it from rotating in the housing.
Greg awesome video! My mill came with a broken Cam Rod Sleeve on the power feed. So it won't stay engaged. I found it broken when I inspected it... the seller promised to fix it before he shipped it, and I guess he neglected to do so. Well I'm not shipping it back haha. I think the solder just came loose on it. Do you have a video that shows how to get that assembly out so I can fix it? Thanks!
th-cam.com/video/hUzWiI1aGyI/w-d-xo.html Pretty much the guts of the power feed unit. While you have it apart I suggest you replace the shaft seal and add some silicone gasket to the matind surface of the motor to the gear housing to prevent oil leaks.
If you tighten the screw..will it cause the damage of brass thread
No that is how you adjust the backlash
Take the old bearings apart, make a split ring of which ever race you need and it makes a perfect press ring. It's the perfect size and won't stick in a hole because it's split.
+DSCKy
Yeah they just ended up in the trash before I got the new ones.
Don't worry about the fuzzy math, LOL. Curious as to the top end of the machine, did you find a minor problem and get it up and running ?
+william D
Bit of noise and general muck. Plus there was grease where there was supposed to be oil.
I have a Bridgeport j-head I bought a few years back that does not have the automatic oil feed system on it....someone used the zerk fittings for dumping grease into it...still haven't taken it apart yet to clean and adjust it up yet as at the time I was busy with work , now have no job due to a shop closing and where I worked our lathes are being shipped to guess where? Mexico. But at least my old company hires me from time to time as a field tech (contractor) to help them remove machinery. We had a bullard 36" cutmaster vtl at work that over the years the lube zerks were pumped with grease as well...sad. Keep up the great vid's Bill
What width is your table? I'm saying 42". One lock handle. Cheers!
+Pete Macrae
Yes it is
Greg,
Thanks for the video with you playing with your nuts! LOL! When I get a mill, I will be getting a newer type . . . one that doesn't involve "testicular surgery" to remove excess backlash. ... I thought you were married already, so congrats are involved! I'm always forgetting dates and events so we got married on Valentine's Day so I would forget our anniversary and end up sleeping with the dog! So far, it's worked for 34 years. ... Getting back to your video, it was very instructional. You have a way of explaining things that makes sense. You also got some pretty cool stuff, especially the bottle from James Green. Thanks again for sharing everything. BTW, do we get to meet the Missus on camera?
Have a good one!
Dave
+Swarf Rat
Trying to get her down in the shop. We made our wedding Tax day (Apr 15) so I hopefully wont forget it........ I probably will eventually.
Having your anniversary on tax day. So you get screwed twice?
+Swarf Rat
Hey figured if you're gonna do it might as well do it all the way.
Don't take the Y axis lead screw out. Just remove the handle/scale/bearing holder and make the adjustment with the lead screw still in place.
using the locks you can more easily determine the rotation play
Nice instructive video to watch. A piece of advice however, Do not split your nuts after drinking the Whisky!
+Rob Gerrits
Sometimes you do by accident
It's good to know the nut can be split in two to extend its life. Now I understand why two piece nuts are being sold on Ebay.
You mentioned you need to figure out where to put the sticker that was sent to you. I love stickers, but always saved them because you only get one shot at placing them. Now I go to Home Depot and and buy magnetic duct covers ( for blocking off rectangular air vents) They are about 10" x 14" and cost around $5 for a 3 pack. They are in the heating isle near all the duct work parts. Now I put the sticker on them, then cut it out and BOOM........magnetic/move able sticker. If you like the idea, buy some and throw it into one of your videos.
+D.B. Cooper You can by sticker magnets at a craft store like Michael's or Hobby lobby too... in various sizes. The vent blocker may be cheaper though?
+D.B. Cooper
Great Idea Thanks!
oh my split compressed nuts what's next ! btw the bearings light press fit no problems with that as you say its not a moving ( in high speed) shaft so no problem just dont walk funny
Giggles
I"m ashamed to admit I've never touched mine (table screw backlash) since I got it, because DRO and lazy. Gibbs seem snug tho. A wiggly table we don't need.
You did damage the bearings although in this application they will run a long time. You forgot to apologize for using the Channellock's. You could have used the old bearing to press in the new one's with no damage.
+Richard Haisley
They went in the trash and I'm not apologizing for anything just saying yeah I made a mistake.
That is NOT a bourbon whiskey. It's "Rye" whiskey. BIG difference. It is 'the' main whiskey of Canada. Sipping bourbon whiskey is to America as rye whiskey is to Canada. Want a good rye whiskey? Pick up a bottle of Canadian rye. Besides, the exchange rate now for the US dollar is fantastic.
Did you ever take classes on machining or just started as a hobby
I started as a hobby and watched videos and read books. The last lathe I touched before these videos was in highschool and that was only for a week. I did take a class a few years ago at a local Voc school, but it was mainly to pick the teachers brain and have some mill time as I didn't have one then. It was for a 3 hours 2 days a week for a month and was mainly a go play with the machine type course. I used it to make a thread stop, an indicator holder, and new steady rest fingers for my machine.
Halligan142 cool bro i'm liking the machining stuff to my profession is refrigeration myself but I do like machining work good luck with the restorations
DRO
I just picked up a used machine that has excessive backlash in the Y Axis. I'll investigate the problem and determine what I need to do. Maybe splitting the not will be a good fix, or maybe I need a new nut. Either way, I'll get after it!!!
looks like James Greene's channel got nuked
get rid of the bullshit and do your job!!!