Lathe Center Height Tool
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video we take a look at a method of setting center height of lathe tools. We show a very nice commercial unit and make a new height standard for calibrating tools on the Yam Lathe. We do some fine single point threading and a little magnet potting to mix things up.
Thank you for getting in touch with me.And it is a great show.I find myself looking at the machinist channel more than T.V
+Lewis Mcclain Hi Lewis,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, I thought I had the patent on changing my mind in the middle of a project. Great idea. Keep writing to Santa, you never know. Thanks for the video.
Nice tool Tom. I loved watching you work on it, you made me chuckle and smile several times!
Thanks for sharing another nice shop made tools thats useful and practical.
Adam
Hey Buddy,
Thanks for the comment. Now that I'm thinking of it how does Abom set his tool on center accurately? I know you don't turn much below six or eight inches in diameter but how do you do it?
TTYS,
Tom
oxtoolco
Interesting question Tom. The turning tools I use daily I try and keep locked on center, like the turning insert tools. The lock on the Multifix holders works great and you have to use the t-handle wrench to loosen it, so they tend to stay on center height.
The other holders like the ones for my hss tool bits, I adjust either by cutting the center of the part and adjusting, or eyeball it with a center point in the tail stock.
Sometimes if I'm in a hurry I just wing it and go! LOL! Those larger diameters can be a little forgiving if your a shade high/low.
So there ya go...the Abom style!
Thanks buddy!
Adam
I really enjoyed this video. The best part was the time you took to show the threading operation.
Awesome! I'm one of the guys that asked about that tool-height gauge. I remember 4130 chromoly as that bmx frame material that everyone wanted back in the 80's on the Mongoose and GT bikes. Those frames were supposed to be unbreakable. I don't think I'll make it out of 4130, but now I have another project to get the Sheldon set up like I want. Thanks!
Hi Robert,
After I finished I went back and looked at the bar. It was 4140. I was wondering why it threaded so ragged. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
4130 is still the go-to for a lot of bicycle framebuilders, production and custom. It welds better than 4140 (due to its slightly lower carbon content).
Nice work Tom. Now your whole shop is magnatized!
I enjoyed the piece at the end about setting it accurately for the spindle centerline... it makes me think about getting the center height more clearly.
The Half Rod mounted in the chuck! What a simple idea! Thanks!
I been looking for a better way for setting tool height, and thanks to this video I have a plan. Thanks Tom
That will be a handy tool for sure. I enjoyed the process Tom.
Tom,
Cool little project, nicely done!
Thanks for getting us all on center,
Ray
Thanks for your time Tom, entertaining as well as informative. I laughed at the way you talk to yourself. We all do it. Kevin
Hey Kevin,
Thanks for the comment. Its kind of scary the conversations I have with myself sometimes.
Cheers,
Tom
Thank for the tip, it inspired this idea. Take some stock about 1/4 inch higher than centre height. Cut a big groove below centre height in that stock. That way you have a simple overhang without the pivoting bit. Check the new height gauge by facing off something. Fine adjustment is done by either dropping the whole gauge down by facing the bottom or raise the groove up. Now I have to go make one.
Thank's GOD for the Internet, You truly are a Master, and there is No other way for people like me to learn from Masters like you. GOD BLESS
Excellent! I would've been disappointed if you'd have slowed that thing down for the thread cutting. I love watching yourself, Keith, Adam &c. working with such confidence.
It's quite rare that I get to do any threading. Our lathe goes down to, I think 25 RPM and even then I'm crapping myself each time I throw in the half nuts :)
I got a laugh out of that. "Crapping myself when I throw in the half nuts" priceless.
Cheers,
Tom
Very nice Tom. Those little magnets are really strong I have a few of them and they are very handy.
I'm thinking that it will be collecting chips from whatever magnetic metals you are cutting over time.
Hi Grumpy,
I sealed the magnet with epoxy. It does collect chips but you can wipe them right off. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
When single point threading on a lathe I found it best to do this. Set your compound to 29 .5 degrees. When you’re sneaking up on the final passes feed in with the compound not the cross slide. I believe you’ll find it cuts a better thread because you’re taking more of a cut on the leading edge of the tool. Worked for me for more than 50 years.
I'm sending you a box of nitrile gloves. ;) Nice work Tom. You have a nice collection of hard to find tools.
Neat idea, I've just been eyeballing it off the dead center but then I have to get the dead center and the tool point near each other. Will put this one on the list.
Another great video Tom. I made one from brass a while back, a very handy little widget. I didn't think to put a magnet in, so that will come soon, appreciate the ideas.
Hi Mike,
I probably should have made mine from brass. I think I grabbed the steel because it was slightly larger than the height tool.
All the best,
Tom
Finally got around to making one. Made the Hardinge style swinging top but just made the height static, appropriate to my lathe. Also made a groove part way down so I can set it off the ways or the cross slide. I omitted the magnet. My previous eyeball method was WAY off when I rechecked all my holders. That may explain my recent parting tool incident. I don't think you can beat this style of gauge if your eyes are getting older and your hands and fingers are worn and rough. Thanks for another helpful video Tom.
Hi Jeff,
I'm happy to hear you made one. They are quick and easy and very accurate. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
As always, another very helpful and enlightening vid! Thanks Tom!
Nice demo, there!
That "Tap-Magic: Extra thick" looks like Maple syrup. Coincidence?
Another alternative is one of the "oil-treatments" found in "auto-parts" stores; "Lucas", or "Morey", brands spring to mind. They are suspiciously like "deep-drawing" lubes; staying "slippery" even under enormous pressure. Useful stuff. Also a good choice when doing heavy "wildcat" or "reforming" of brass rifle cartridge cases, or for bullet swaging. Also works in "tired" engines and machine gear-boxes.
Always learning something new every time I watch your videos. Thanks! And by the way ... I just got your latest book ... and am at chapter three. It reads well and is entertaining as well as being informative. I hope there are more book projects from your on the horizon.
Hi GaWajn,
Thanks for the comment and support. I think I might have another one up my sleeve.
All the best,
Tom
Nice vid. I like that close camera shot. You do some nice "Play-By-Play" as well.
Idomake Hi Make,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great video as usual. I always just use the old sharp point in the tail stock trick. I had no idea how fancy you could get.
Hi Tom,
Good idea to add it up to the existing tool, you even get a height micrometer as a bonus, with a 40 TPI you know you're moving .025 thou. a revolution easy to calibrate and adjust.
By turning the threads at 2000RPM's the finish would be FANTASTIC... Don't know about the rest....
Good video thanks for sharing,
Pierre
Hi Pierre,
I've used the height gage a few times now and I have to say I really like it. You can sight from the side and really see what is going on. Should have done it years ago when I got the Hardinge unit.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, and it's kind of easy to make one, I'll look into it as soon as my roto-phase is back to functioning... BIG KABOOOM !!! from blown capacitors.
Going too have to make me one of those. Thanks Tom. If you picked up Mr. Wizard from the TV show, you must be nearly as old as me. lol
David Callista Hey David,
I seem to remember him on TV when I was a wee lad. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Definitely a good idea to pot the magnet and not just rely on the glue behind and around the circumference. I've glued rare earth magnet ad nauseum before, and since they're plated with nickel they're a pain in the rear end to get to stick to anything. In many applications using some really tacky double sided tape is actually better than glue if you can't completely encapsulate it.
Might've been nice to put it on a Noga base though, so you could "switch off" the magnet as well.
Thanks for another cool video. Gotta get me one of those Hardinge height setting doodads.
/Daniel
Hey Daniel,
This one is buried in a tomb of epoxy. I don't think I'll be digging it out any time soon. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco Exactly my point!
Cheers!
I made something similar to the half rod, a quarter rod. The benefit is not having to spin the chuck to get the flat level because it has a 90° corner at the center.
You're the bomb Tom! Thanks for another great video.
Hey Tom,
the text saying "Danger Mr Wizard" saved my day.
Awesome video as always.
Have a nice Weekend.
Stephan
Knowledgeable and easy to listen to - thanks
+Dave Hair Hi Dave,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom
No need to wait for Santa...I placed an order for a few import scale holders, I will send you one since we will need to do some testing to see if they have the same holding ability as the USA holder in my video!
Enjoyed the vid/lessons and how you dealt with a material that was chewy while machining....FYI...I was grinning with the glue segment!
ATB
Chuck
Hey Chuck,
I have some scales we can test with. I can't wait to hear the story behind all this.
cheers,
Tom
Nice to see Mr. Wizard back in this video. How did he miss out on the facing boo-boo last time around? Thanks for detailing your tuning of the fit on the fine thread.
I know you probably know this trick but for others. If you don't know the height from wherever to your tool edge you can put the scale up against your part and bring your tool in to touch the side. On the round surface if your tool is high the scale will tilt to the right (or towards the part) if your to low it will tilt to the left (or away from the part) and you can just adjust it till the scale is sticking straight up into the air.
This works for machines that might be to big for your 6inch to reach down to the cross slide. Also others have suggested using a center in the tail stock to eyeball off the point (which is good and very quick) but if you're using it as support might not be an option. You said there are multiple ways to center your tool and that is very true. Thought id share my method. Hope it helps someone.
+Shawn Hawkins Hey Shawn,
Does it work for boring bars? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Most interesting watching that very fine threading
Hi Tom
Nice video
I have a box full of steel that machines like that lol
I think I will use stainless for mine
John
Hey John,
Want some more of it to keep your steel company? I should have used brass or non magnetic stainless.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom, After watching your video I am going and ( try ) to make one. I use the tail stock point but sometime that is a pain. Thanks Buddy
good job I made mine out of the things that u were going to use but I start from the table top, go from a center at chuck then to the tool works fine for me, again good job
Hey Richard,
Thanks for the comment. My toolpost hangs over the cross slide so I need a spanner bar to get the height gage under the tool. I can also reach boring bars that are sticking out further as well.
All the best,
Tom
Good show, old man. Good info and several belly laughs!
You got me checking eBay for one of those.
Nice work!
I think my idea of a laser pointer in the chuck indicated to point to the center of the tailstock and a good way to get alinment on your mill over useing a centering tool and the dro or the other thing I'd like to make is a periscope with cross hairs for center I think I might have seen a video of the scope in some way. But the laser pointer is all my idea.
the one i made is from a right angle square, chop off the extra length allowing for width of blade, glue/screw the cut off piece at required height, super quick and simple, excellent addition to any lathe.
Hi Oliver,
That sounds like a simple method to create a center gage. Nice wide base as well. Great idea.
Cheers,
Tom
A planer gauge also works to set the tool height.
Hi, Oxtoolco, this video is great, my name is Ronaldo, I'm from Brazil, I like this is.
I thank I like the half rod the best of all of them, thanks for the video.
Hi Joe,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
What do you do when you have a unset tool and a piece in the chuck you can't remove? That's where another method such as this is necessary.
I got an er collet with an mt3 taper for using reamers and endmills I have a tendency to hack my way around the lathe I thought that was a safer way to go about it. as for tool height, I have been using a dead centre? in the chuck with a tapered sleeve... it came with the lathe and haven't found another use for it yet, I'm thinking one of these will make a good project though
Thanks Tom, fun stuff to watch
Hi, Tom!
Great work! I believe the top of the Hardinge depth tool is used to set tools which are mounted upside down, such as rear-mounted parting tools etc.
Thanks for an informative show!
Mike
South Africa
I am a follower of all of your videos and a have been learning a lot Thanks very much I appreciated.
Instead of making all that High Calibrator, why not just uses the Bar mill to half of its diameter, face down and it is good for any Lathe
Best Regards
Omar Quintero
from Caracas Venezuela
Hi Omar,
You could do that. Sometimes you need to set a new tool but not remove your part from the chuck. You would not be able to use the half rod to set the tool. Having another standard allows you to leave the part in the machine and sharpen or replace a tool and still set it accurately on center.
Cheers,
Tom
I doubt that Mrs. Claus will allow Santa to bring you a DD scale holder!
I like this project, and had been thinking of making something similar. Yours is way cool.
another great video. thanks for a great open house :)
santa says you've been a bad boy, no scale holder for you :) anticipated a crash with every thread cut lol perhaps your Mr wizard warning had something to do with that ;) keep up the great vids always enjoy them. Later man
How come on all the lathe every one is using six jaw chucks?And what is the pros and cons of three and four jaw chucks?Thank you love your shows and tips.
+Lewis Mcclain Hi Lewis,
Not everybody is using six jaw chucks. The parts drive the process. Check out Adam Booth. He almost exclusively uses a four jaw. In general six works better for thin shell parts and a four makes you do better work because you have to indicate everything in each time. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks Tom! As a beginner this is a real aha video for me. Thanks, again.
larry
Hi Larry,
Glad you got something out of it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Unsalted pork lard works wonders on threading! Especially when cutting stainless and tool steel...
I believe santa has gotten many requests for the same thing. ;)
Could you have run the thread tool upside down and run the chuck in reverse from the thread relief to cut some of the pucker factor on the smaller tool?
Hi Michael,
That is a pretty common operation in the shop. I prefer to watch the tool as that is the way I learned many years ago. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
great video tom
Great work. Great vid.... Question. Are you feeding in straight with the cross slide or are you putting a cut on with the compound ?
3 Jaw Chucks: Feeling all high and mighty
6 Jaw Chucks: Hold my beer
I've started using the threading method shown by Joe Pieczynski and really feel much more comfortable doing it. It looks odd but works w/o the fear of crashing into the work. Tool mounted up side down and turning away from the work. Have you considered it?
I was wondering about that. I've seen others talk about that method too especially when doing internal threading where you can't really see what you're doing always.
thanks for the video. very nice tool for the shop .
I hate that I can't part off like at 26:20 with my little South Bend 9. Parting is my nightmare, the big pucker factor. I'm not worthy. Great vid.
nice tool tom, how about mounting to mag base, could then turn magnet on &off
Hi David,
That would be a good addition to the setup. I would want a real small one for that purpose. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice, but I always used the center in the tailstock? Then I turn the toolpost with the tool in toolpost, whichever way to eyeball the center line? Then return tool post to square.
Lost too many carbide & cbn inserts that way. When tightening down the toolpost has rotated the insert into the tailstock centre.
Gunna Have to make one Now Tom LOL I love your Skill, But the Comments Crack me up Mr wizard hahaa
Thanks Tom. I love this idea. I don't have a flat section on the apron of my lathe (SB 9"). A was thinking about setting it on the ways but then I am sitting on the tops of the V's. Any suggestions?
Hi Craig,
Sitting on the vee ways should be fine as long as they are the same height. Many are not the same size. If not you could easily make a bar that steps over the vee's and sits on the flats of the lathe ways that should be on the same plane.
Cheers,
Tom
Very informative. Thank you.
floyd green Hi Floyd,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good if you have time could also use a vernier height guage
Hey Tom,
just a quick question:
Why don't you use the tip of your live center to set the height of your tool?
This is the way I was taught to do it and it worked really well for me.
-MrP
Hi Mr P,
Good question. The tailstock works fine but sometimes when you need to set a tool the tailstock is not available. Maybe your turning between centers and need to touch up a tool and reset the center height. Having a loose standard is really fast and handy. Winding the tailstock out to get close to the tool can be a hassle. Many tailstocks are very low from wear as well and not on the center of the spindle rotation. This is really important with small diameter turning.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the answer, I didn't think about that. Very nice to learn something new.
Cheers
-MrP
Joe Pie has a great video on threading away from the chuck. Check it out. Its a no brainer once you see it done.
Are the Hardinge height setters still available?
What's your hurry , I find all of the threads are better at slower speeds, single point on manual lathe? Just saying? Even tho you are the man!!!
Which is the most dangerous a tool above centre height or a tool below centre height??
I sure do agree with Abom79 puts a smile on my face
It's a Hardinge-Lipton Center Height tool.
easy to set a tool to centre height use an old six inch rule, flat side of rule against a parallel stock bar held in lathe, place tool tip lightly against rule and adjust tool height so rule is held vertical against bar if not centre height rule will not be vertical
Hi Kevin,
That is a good method for quick and dirty center setting. When you turn very small diameters and or slender parts its very important the tool is very close to the correct center height. I suggest an experiment. Use your ruler method then compare it to the tailstock center or better yet a split round. I think you will find its pretty easy to be off a bit. The diameter of the test bar also plays a part in how well this method works. Thanks for the comment and suggestion.
All the best,
Tom
Reverse the direction of your leadscrew and work from the shoulder out to reduce the pucker factor.
Hi Richard,
That would make a left hand thread. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Upside down tool and reverse spindle.
Thats right...
If can't get right on centre line which is best to go slightly under or over centre?
Hi Orange,
It depends on the tool. Turning, boring and parting all have different tolerances for their behavior in relation to center height. When in doubt put it on center is what I usually say.
Cheers,
Tom
How about attaching a continuity tester and just raise the tool bit until it beeps?
+Jim Hughart Hey Jim,
That would work as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
The weird things you notice #842 When I was a stamping press operator I knew when the dies weren't getting properly lubed by the sound the press made, I've watched enough of your videos that when you were parting off the stock I could tell by the sound when it was going to drop free
Hi Andrew,
Sound is an important indicator in the machine shop. Many things make a very distinctive sound that is an indicator of what is happening.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, Interesting video, nice threading, and a nice tool to keep by any lathe. Thank you for sharing... :o]
O,
Hey O,
Thanks for the comment. I know you like tools with at least an inch and half shank on them. The Nickole only comes with 5/8 max.
All the best,
Tom
Yee haw Nickole'....
looks good nice video
+Andrew Wawrzynaik Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Just enjoy the Video folks this is not MSN,but highly skilled humans sharing Knowledge so we can Hybredize and become supersmart and make good stuff like the germans and Japanese.We once made good stuff before the politicians forced us to reward stupidity.Now we gotta start all over
I don't get what this tool does..
Is it for gauging the height of the cutting tool?
If so why does it need the moving part on the end?
Hi Dude,
The overhang allows you to slide up to the tool tip and touch it. If you just have a flat you are comparing visually and not touching the tool tip to the gage. Hope this makes sense.
Cheers,
Tom
never thought of - know I know . Lots of others never knew either
What was the tool holder part # and the interchangeable inserts that can do cut off and 60 degree thread cutting? Where would be a good source to buy? Thanks.
Great video--thanks!
I wonder if something like lard would improve the threading?
Hi Krispin,
Heavy lubes might help. This particular material is not great for threading. I should have changed materials when I changed my plan on the height setter. It all turned out well in the end. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
How about adding a lever pivoting on top?, rest one end of the lever on top of the tool
adjust tool height until lever is horizontal
Hi Lasse,
That might work. There is no reference to center with the lever idea. Its just visual that the lever is true horizontal. What are you comparing to?
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco hard to explain :)
Imagine if you took a hinge and bolted one side to you measuring post,
now rest the free end of the hinge on a tool at the correct height, draw a line a cross the part where the pin goes through the hinge.
Now when the lines on the hinge line up the tool is at the correct height
молодец мастер руки есть привет от СССР
What do you do with the chips once your done with a project? Do you throw them in the trash, make poor man’s steal wool, recycle it, throw it up in the air to “make it rain”, sell it back to your metal supplier, melt it down to make ‘new’ stock? Just curious?
Hi Rock,
I don't make that many chips so they generally go out as trash. There is not enough of any one type to make it worth while to collect and store until it makes sense to take it to a scrap dealer.
Cheers,
Tom
Interesting, I would have thought (being in the SF Bay Area) that they would get recycled or something.
Yes I agree but if haven't got a fancy tool post & rely on shimming? Cheers
I think I,d inset a couple magnets in that piece of square stock to keep it from rockin, around
Good stuff! I made a bunch of "magnet holders" from 1" diameter aluminum and brass about an inch long. I cheated and just rough drilled the bottom, then put a piece of painters tape (thin stuff is 5 thousands thick) on the bottom of the magnet... put in some epoxy in the drilled hole, insert magnet, and set against a steel bar. Painters tape kept the clearance I wanted, steel bar kept the magnet in the right place. Each holder (I made probably 3 dozen) got a different knurling, undercut, top hat. Handy reference when I make a knob for a project!
Hey Tom,
I like the tape idea and snapping it to a bar to set the space. Good idea.
Cheers,
Tom
You do want to have ideally no air gap between the magnet and it surface
Hi Tom Great video as usual
Just a quick question on the use of Tap Magic extra thick...
Is it the extra thick variety which has sulphur added to it for superior turning, or is it the version in which they add Toluene that automatically degreases the threads as they are cut so they are easier to clean. Or is it the version which has Shell Rotunda 3200 added as a lubricant to make the turning smoother?
Couldn't resist......
Rod Qualicum Beach
Hey Rod,
Its the organic environmentally friendly vegan free range low sodium fat free version of Tapmatic.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco
Does it make a good vinaigrette?
You have to turn very fast to get a good finish with 4140.