This is great! I couldn't wait to inspect my clock for cable tangled up in there. It's Kieninger RWS model. The last time I wound the weights back up I accidentally allowed a bit of a bounce at one twist of the key. It wouldn't run after that but after now seeing your video, I checked for tangled cable... Yep that was it! back in gear now. Thanks for a really informative video series. Much appreciated. It took about an hour to get it apart enough to untangle the cable off of the barrel and put it all back together.
Thanks for your intuitive instructions I will attempt to clean and oil my Howard Miller grandfather clock myself I have just ordered you kit to do this. One quick question it is okay to use compressed air or air in the can as it were, on the movement or at least the brass front and back plates.
After you clean and oil your grandfather clock and put the hands back on the chime and timing might be off to correct this follow the procedure "Most Of Your clocks have an auto-time corrector. Both the right time and corrector have to be set. To do this advance the minute had 1/4 hour all the way around or until it strikes 12 times. Let say it chimes and strikes 12 times at 9:45 then advance the minute hand all the way around stopping at each 1/4 hour and again when it reaches 9:45 and chimes 4 times and strikes 12 times then the auto-time corrector is set. undue the minute hand nut and move the minute hand to 12 and tighten the nut back down the hour hand is fiction tight using your fingers at the base of the hour hand push it up to the 12 o'clock position. Now your clock is set with both the corrector and striking and chiming at the right time now set the clock to the right time and you're done. The Bench Jeweler
Thanks for your video, I've just bought a Vienna style regulator at auction, it's a simple single weight movement. I've oiled it but as I'm not experienced enough to take it apart, I was wondering about putting some oil between the winding wheel and main wheel from the outside. the clock is running fine and keeping good time. Thanks, John.
I really got a lot on your video. my question is easy way to replace a broken time cable. do you have any video that you recommend? I acquired the grand clock from a friend.
Did the cable break at or near the end of the cable sometimes you can make a new cable stud and solder the stud back on the cable. Depends a lot on where the cable broke. Second, do you have the broken end of the cable? Third what is the clock movement number located on the back side of the clock movement. The Bench Jeweler. Mike E.
I think I should have let you answer the question about what you should see if the clock is properly oiled. After proper oiling should you see a a little puddle of oil in the dimple in the plate under magnification or should all of it get sucked in and none be visible? It is not clear to the viewer what is enough and what is too much. I am going to buy your oilers instead of what I got on Amazon buy I need to know if it is possible to tell visually what right looks like. One final question and I think you mentioned it somewhere but I can't find it. I have two Grandfather clocks and two wall clocks. How often should they be oiled? I think you said 3-4 years but another video somewhere said every two years. I think you said somewhere but I can't find it. Can you clarify it for all of us so we can just read the comment instead of searching through a bunch of videos.
When we order in a brand new clock movement you will see no oil in the pockets making you think it's never been oiled, but in fact, it has been oiled. This is why I caution you to be very careful when oiling. If you can see a tiny bit on the oilers we provide it's all most too much. If you can see the oil deposit at the lowest point in the well socket between the pivot you have delivered the correct amount. The Bench Jeweler.
Joel what clock movement number do you have look at the back of the movement most are on the bottom right if you are facing the back of the movement. The Bench Jeweler.
By the way I love your videos. I bought all the tools to oil my Sligh Wall Clock that you demonstrate, I just wish I had seen your video first. I would rather have given you the money than Amazon. One final question and I am sure I am not the only one. When I tried oiling my clock I had clip on magnifiers and a bright headlamp using oilers like yours. I swear I could not see any only transferred to the movement even with magnifiers, I finally resorted to one of my small Dental Instruments to oil it, in fact I over oiled it. So I cleaned it again and am starting over. Should you actually be able to see the oil transferring to the movement or would it be better to simply do as you instruct and take it on faith? I know some oil must be transferring just from common sense and watching you you seem to see the oil transferring into the movement. If I should be able to see it then maybe I need stronger magnifiers. But I dipped the tool in the oil just as you did but didn't see much when I touched the movement. This may be be a good time for you to stress what we really should or shouldn't see when doing this. Your camera work is great but what you are seeing might not be possible for the camera to really capture. So simply put: Should you be able to see the oil transfer or just trust it did it? I am sure the tendency of all novices is to over oil so clarification would really help. Also, should you see any oil in the dimples on the plate after oiling or should we expect all of it to get sucked in? You seem to be able to tell when you put too much oil in but we as viewers never could see what made you realize that. I really appreciate what you are doing, our only problem as viewers is we can never see what you are seeing on the video so we don't know what to look for or not look for. If you can kind of help us out as to what what we should or shouldn't see it would really help. Thanks
I finally figured it out and it took me back 40 years! The first several weeks of Dental School they told us something all of us had to learn. They told us, "You have to see detail so small that you could read a letter written on the head of a pin. Regular people never see in that type of detail but you have to learn how to do it because Dentistry requires a level of skill no other Profession requires". I did see what you were talking about but it required a much tighter focus than I realized. The first time I did not realize that. You can see the oil sucking into the movement once you know what you are looking for. Thanks for your great videos but I think I just proved it requires work and concentration on the viewers side as well. But it is hard to see until you know what you are looking for.
I have watched all your videos and I hope you still read comments. From everything I have seen you do it appears you never oil any of the gear teeth inside the clock except the escapement. A few years ago I cleaned our Wall Clocks and Grandfather clock in Paint Thinner and oiled everything including the gear teeth inside the movement. From what I have learned from you it is only necessary to oil escapement gear but none of the teeth of any other internal gears. Is that correct?
Do not oil the teeth of the gears all that does is load them down with dust particles the only gear to oil is the escapement wheel tooth every third tooth works best.
This is great! I couldn't wait to inspect my clock for cable tangled up in there. It's Kieninger RWS model. The last time I wound the weights back up I accidentally allowed a bit of a bounce at one twist of the key. It wouldn't run after that but after now seeing your video, I checked for tangled cable... Yep that was it! back in gear now. Thanks for a really informative video series. Much appreciated. It took about an hour to get it apart enough to untangle the cable off of the barrel and put it all back together.
Good to learn all those points from you.Amaizing.Your new camera equipment work very well.Thank you Mike.
Thanks for your intuitive instructions I will attempt to clean and oil my Howard Miller grandfather clock myself I have just ordered you kit to do this. One quick question it is okay to use compressed air or air in the can as it were, on the movement or at least the brass front and back plates.
After you clean and oil your grandfather clock and put the hands back on the chime and timing might be off to correct this follow the procedure "Most Of Your clocks have an auto-time corrector. Both the right time and corrector have to be set. To do this advance the minute had 1/4 hour all the way around or until it strikes 12 times. Let say it chimes and strikes 12 times at 9:45 then advance the minute hand all the way around stopping at each 1/4 hour and again when it reaches 9:45 and chimes 4 times and strikes 12 times then the auto-time corrector is set. undue the minute hand nut and move the minute hand to 12 and tighten the nut back down the hour hand is fiction tight using your fingers at the base of the hour hand push it up to the 12 o'clock position. Now your clock is set with both the corrector and striking and chiming at the right time now set the clock to the right time and you're done. The Bench Jeweler
Thanks for your video, I've just bought a Vienna style regulator at auction, it's a simple single weight movement. I've oiled it but as I'm not experienced enough to take it apart, I was wondering about putting some oil between the winding wheel and main wheel from the outside. the clock is running fine and keeping good time. Thanks, John.
The only place oiling is required is on the front and back clock plate oiling the pivots sinks only.
Thanks, That is what I've done.@@rhjgold
Thank you, Mateos.
I really got a lot on your video. my question is easy way to replace a broken time cable. do you have any video that you recommend? I acquired the grand clock from a friend.
Did the cable break at or near the end of the cable sometimes you can make a new cable stud and solder the stud back on the cable. Depends a lot on where the cable broke. Second, do you have the broken end of the cable? Third what is the clock movement number located on the back side of the clock movement. The Bench Jeweler. Mike E.
I think I should have let you answer the question about what you should see if the clock is properly oiled.
After proper oiling should you see a a little puddle of oil in the dimple in the plate under magnification or should all of it get sucked in and none be visible?
It is not clear to the viewer what is enough and what is too much.
I am going to buy your oilers instead of what I got on Amazon buy I need to know if it is possible to tell visually what right looks like.
One final question and I think you mentioned it somewhere but I can't find it.
I have two Grandfather clocks and two wall clocks.
How often should they be oiled?
I think you said 3-4 years but another video somewhere said every two years.
I think you said somewhere but I can't find it.
Can you clarify it for all of us so we can just read the comment instead of searching through a bunch of videos.
When we order in a brand new clock movement you will see no oil in the pockets making you think it's never been oiled, but in fact, it has been oiled. This is why I caution you to be very careful when oiling. If you can see a tiny bit on the oilers we provide it's all most too much. If you can see the oil deposit at the lowest point in the well socket between the pivot you have delivered the correct amount. The Bench Jeweler.
Where can I buy the plastic shields for the barrels? I had one break. Thank You
I might have one I will look and see. The Bench Jeweler.
Joel what clock movement number do you have look at the back of the movement most are on the bottom right if you are facing the back of the movement. The Bench Jeweler.
By the way I love your videos.
I bought all the tools to oil my Sligh Wall Clock that you demonstrate,
I just wish I had seen your video first.
I would rather have given you the money than Amazon.
One final question and I am sure I am not the only one.
When I tried oiling my clock I had clip on magnifiers and a bright headlamp using oilers like yours.
I swear I could not see any only transferred to the movement even with magnifiers, I finally resorted to one of my small Dental Instruments to oil it, in fact I over oiled it.
So I cleaned it again and am starting over.
Should you actually be able to see the oil transferring to the movement or would it be better to simply do as you instruct and take it on faith?
I know some oil must be transferring just from common sense and watching you you seem to see the oil transferring into the movement.
If I should be able to see it then maybe I need stronger magnifiers.
But I dipped the tool in the oil just as you did but didn't see much when I touched the movement.
This may be be a good time for you to stress what we really should or shouldn't see when doing this.
Your camera work is great but what you are seeing might not be possible for the camera to really capture.
So simply put:
Should you be able to see the oil transfer or just trust it did it? I am sure the tendency of all novices is to over oil so clarification would really help.
Also, should you see any oil in the dimples on the plate after oiling or should we expect all of it to get sucked in?
You seem to be able to tell when you put too much oil in but we as viewers never could see what made you realize that.
I really appreciate what you are doing, our only problem as viewers is we can never see what you are seeing on the video so we don't know what to look for or not look for.
If you can kind of help us out as to what what we should or shouldn't see it would really help.
Thanks
I finally figured it out and it took me back 40 years!
The first several weeks of Dental School they told us something all of us had to learn.
They told us, "You have to see detail so small that you could read a letter written on the head of a pin. Regular people never see in that type of detail but you have to learn how to do it because Dentistry requires a level of skill no other Profession requires".
I did see what you were talking about but it required a much tighter focus than I realized. The first time I did not realize that.
You can see the oil sucking into the movement once you know what you are looking for.
Thanks for your great videos but I think I just proved it requires work and concentration on the viewers side as well.
But it is hard to see until you know what you are looking for.
I have watched all your videos and I hope you still read comments. From everything I have seen you do it appears you never oil any of the gear teeth inside the clock except the escapement.
A few years ago I cleaned our Wall Clocks and Grandfather clock in Paint Thinner and oiled everything including the gear teeth inside the movement.
From what I have learned from you it is only necessary to oil escapement gear but none of the teeth of any other internal gears.
Is that correct?
Do not oil the teeth of the gears all that does is load them down with dust particles the only gear to oil is the escapement wheel tooth every third tooth works best.
@@rhjgold Thanks for your help.
Дякую вам за працю 😊
it says 05 K 100cm
Ok, that's a Kieninger 05K movement Let me do some looking might be a tough find? The Bench Jeweler. Mike E.