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"If the timer includes a clutch gear for resetting the time, avoid cleaning it with solutions; instead, gently wipe it clean. All other gears and the mainspring can be safely cleaned using appropriate cleaning solutions." Why Not Clean the Clutch Gear? The clutch gear often has a friction layer or grease that allows it to engage and disengage smoothly. If this layer is removed by cleaning: The clutch mechanism may slip or fail to engage properly. The timer's reset functionality could be compromised. The Bench Jeweler

If your mainsprings are open (not enclosed in a barrel), you must let the springs down or allow them to run down over time. Once the mainspring is fully unwound, take a rag and apply a small amount of 3-in-1 oil. Fold the rag over the mainspring and pull the spring through the rag as far as possible to clean it thoroughly. While the spring remains unwound, apply regular clock oil to the arbor. Then apply clock oil to the main springs in the same way to ensure proper lubrication and smooth operation. Alway use clock oil. The Bench Jeweler.

@ thanks for replying so quickly. So e 3-1 oil is for cleaning e mainspring, but the synthetic clock oil is still used for lubrication of the spring. Got you and big thanks from a learning beginner hobbyist.

Most of the time locks I work on, come out of the banks and need cleaning. I strip them down and clean them like I would a packet watch, then reoil them, test them, and make them ready to install. As for replacement parts depends on the movements. What parts are you looking for? The Bench Jeweler

What parts are you looking for? It might help Mike E.

@@rhjgold Nothing in particular at the moment. I was reading a Time lock servicing and repair manual from TMi Corp. I purchased the other day. This book is all about replacing parts as well but Lockmasters seems to be the only website that sells some parts. I don't know yet if I will get into it or not, I was looking at a course that MBA offers on Time Locks but I would have to go to Kentucky for two days to take that course. TMi Corp does not have any classes on this scheduled for 2025 as of yet, I am on their waiting list. I was thinking about maybe getting a vintage Time lock on ebay and restore it to see if this is something I would like to do, for a hobby mostly. I am 67 years old and retired so not much more time for a new career. I imagine websites that repair them might sell parts, I couldn't imagine why not.

Oh yeah....great video! THAT takes a lot of patience! Not even sure I have that much for such tiny parts.

When a new movement is ordered and shipped, or when a new clock is purchased, a fine-grade clock oil is typically used. So yes, oil will work. However, I prefer to use a specially formulated clock grease, which, in my opinion, performs far better for maintaining and protecting the movement. The Bench Jeweler

Is this cable wound clock or chain wound and single chime or muti chime ? The bench jeweler.

It has multiple chimes. And I'm not sure about the other but i think it's chain wound. It's a howard miller 610-520 serial number mf0071470103

At the top of your clock movement, you'll see a governor that looks like a butterfly. If the shaft it’s attached to is spinning freely, the butterfly needs to be adjusted to slow down the chime. Gently hold the butterfly with your finger. If the chimes are playing too fast, it means the butterfly is too loose and needs adjustment. Be very careful as the shaft on the butterfly is weak and can bend without much pressure. Let me know what you find out. The Bench Jeweler

@ Hello and thank you for the reply!! I held the butterfly with my finger while it started to play the melody. The melody stopped completely until I let it spin again it when into to turbo speed again? Is there something else I can try.

I also noticed that the butterfly does spin constantly only a little here and there when the clock melody plays

If the chimes move too fast, the butterfly might be slipping. Tighten it, or apply a tiny drop of fast-drying glue to the butterfly shaft. Make sure the butterfly doesn’t move until the glue is dry. Remove the chime weight first. The Bench Jeweler.

@@rhjgold how do o send you an email

The escape wheel is a gear inside the mechanism that can’t be removed without opening the front and back plates. Once these are open, you can measure the escape wheel’s pivots and install the correct bushings in the plates using bushing tools and cutter. Hope this helps The Bench Jeweler

There is a whole book on this subject, I can offer a few notes to give you an answer. Workability: Brass is softer and easier to machine, cut, and shape compared to harder metals like steel. Wear Resistance and Longevity: Brass wears well over time, especially in the low-speed movements Corrosion Resistance: Brass is resistant to corrosion and tarnishing, which helps the gears and components last longer Low Friction: Brass creates less friction when in contact with other materials Aesthetics: Brass has a traditional, warm appearance. The Bench Jeweler.

Thanks for looking Rose. The Bench jeweler

If this a grandfather clock all you need to do is move the minute hand through the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and on the hour count the strikes say 3 o'clock you can move the hour hand to three it's on a friction busing and can be moved to what every time you need. The Bench Jeweler

If there is a lever protruding through the front of the dial, that would be either a shutoff or a music tune changer

There are two levers on the front of the movement as the chime plays the tune the cam goes around and lifts a long arm lever which trips the striking cam and the rack which gives the time by striking the tune bar. Sometimes if the minute hand is turned backward it can jam the rack which looks like a bunch of stairs or pointed teeth. you need to check the rack first to see if its free moving. The Bench Jeweler

The first thing to check is the last time the clock was serviced if ever. Depending on the age it may need cleaning and oiling of the movement, most times this does the trick. The Bench Jeweler.

@@rhjgold i had the clock oiled about six months ago, what else can i check

Is this a cable clock or a chain clock if it's a cable clock move the pendulum all the way to one side and let it swing free. This sets the beat and the clock should run without stopping. This won't work on most chain wound clocks. The Bench jeweler

That would not likely cause the time to stop. The chime on some clocks can be shut off. If you have a lever on the front dial for chimes shut it off and check to see if the time keeps running. As a rule, the chimes will not cause a problem with the time gears. The Bench Jeweler

@@rhjgold thanks for your reply. This clock is maybe older even, it doesn’t have any shut offs for chiming. Well, I’m pretty sure it doesn’t. I did have it fully gone over by a professional, have had it home a few months now. Still getting stuck and stopping some. I’ll keep observing it to try and figure out what’s the problem. I checked chime chain and doesn’t seem it’s hung up in anyway.

I will say pretty much every time it is stopped, I try to move the minute hand and it is resistant. So I don’t force it, I open the back see that the little fly wheel is standing up, I give it a slight push and it will whir around, then the minute hand will move again and I can start the clock.

It has to do with the rack behind the dial for some reason it's not dropping all the way down at the 10 11 and 12. I think I need to make a quick video on the chime levers. The Bench Jeweler

The clock number you gave me is for the case. To find the movement number, look on the lower right side on the back of the clock movement as you face the back of the case. If your clock has side panels, you should be able to locate it through one of them. To clean and oil the front pivot wells, you need to remove the front clock dial. While the back side of the clock movement can also be cleaned and oiled, this can be very difficult. On many clocks, you can remove the back case panel to expose the back of the movement, making this task a bit easier. Remember to handle each part with care and ensure you have the proper tools to avoid damaging any components. The Bench Jeweler

My best guess is the rack is not dropping down far enough to count the 12th tooth on the strike the cam pin may be hanging up or an adjustment is needed to let the rack drop all the way down on the center hour wheel. The Bench Jeweler

Most problems deal with the chimes if they are really dirty and have not been cleaned and oiled for a long time this may be the problem.

Yes, each hour should strike the time. Somewhere the strike levers are not functioning correctly. The Bench Jeweler.

The hammers should all be in a roll and set about 1/4 inch from the chime bar. If you have a cable clock use a tall plastic cup type you buy form the store and wind the clock up with the cup inside the cable and pully keeps the cables from twisting up on the winding wheel The bench Jeweler.

The kits run $35.95 plus shipping you can see the kit on my website see the following: www.mybenchjeweler.com/product/red-dragon-clock-oil-kit Thanks The Bench Jeweler

Thanks, for the info. The Taper pins are you referring to the dial held by the taper pins if so yes by all means pull the pins and remove the dial. The Bench Jeweler.

The chime and strike are the biggest problems on clocks such as grandfather clocks. The chime at 12 o'clock is support to trip the strike or far left weight. It can be that the strike gears are out of sink you will need to remove the dial and trigger the minute hand to see what cam is not in sink. that's a good starting place. Thanks The Bench Jeweler

No, too runny