I'm just getting started tinkering with electronics and bought a $40 power unit from Amazon. This video was extremely helpful in learning the basics of how to use these things and what they are capable of. Thanks for the great video.
Im so freaking happy I discovered this channel. This guy is incredible. Not only I’m learning quite handy things, but I’m also enjoying the process since this guy is really likable. Instantly subbed. Great content, sir! Love it!
I just love this guy, Adam I think his name is, I am 70 years old and have a great interest in pc repairs, I love the fact that there is no annoying music, his explanation is easy to understand. Watch all of his videos, liked and subscribed. Cheers from Ireland
I think this was the _most informative_ AND _easy to watch and understand_ video on power supplies I've seen. I love the way you presented it and the verbage you use to describe things resonates very well with me. Thanks a lot, keep it up!
Ever since you talked about your soldering tools specifically the PINE-64 I immediately ordered it thru Aliexpress and since receiving it and using it my soldering had never been the same, my soldering hobby had became more accurate and easier than my crappy soldering gun, thanks for sharing your videos
Thanks a lot for this video, I ordered a 10 amp model of the one you have and the output toggle is a huge advantage and I just love the unit a lot in general. I guess I was just spoiled by the expensive units my uni had and didn't realize that some features didn't exist on the cheap end. I was about to buy the cheaper one before but glad I didn't. Also discovered this great channel and have been binge watching for weeks. Long time ago I ordered a set of laptop plug adapters which came in incredibly handy for the bench supply as I can just have a single 5.5/2.5mm barrel jack on it and plug any of the adapters into it to turn it into any laptop power supply socket (apart from USB-C and the flat lenovo one I guess)
This is a nifty channel, thanks for all these tips ! It's nowadays rare to see a channel putting up non-nonsense content so I'm happy to have stumbled upon this series !
When charging LIPO batteries to 4.2v per cell you really need to put something to balance it on the balance wire leads. Even if that doesn’t talk to the power supply it will reduce the chance of over charging one cell and having it burst into flames. The more you go over 1C in charging and discharging the battery the more important this is.
Just discovered your channel and thanks for sharing this helpful video and information. Earlier today I ordered a Longwei 3010KDS from Amazon Prime with 2 days delivery. I appreciate your help in providing reviews on these items. I am in the process of building my Electronics home workshop for Amateur Radio and Model Railroading & model drones. I subscribed to your TH-cam channel as well.
Great video you will a Professor one day if not already, very interesting i work on electric bikes, I to chop leads off battery chargers. I throw very little in the bin. If i was 30 years younger i would be your apprentice free for 12 months. Do keep the videos coming thank you Ron
I've always referred to them as constant current/voltage but now that we're on topic, isn't the term 'constant' inappropriate here? Depending on the load the voltage and current would change. It's just that the voltage and current would never exceed the limits dialled in. In this context something like voltage/current 'limit' communicates thr intent much better. Calling it control current or voltage is more appropriate imo
Definitely go to EEVblog, very informative, very qualitative. And most importantly, you get the enthusiastic Aussie "Hi!" at the start of EVERY video. "Haw-ee!"
the crazy thing about being self-taught and TH-cam-educated is that we often lose out on the baseline that people who are truly educated on a topic take for granted
CC is an extremely useful feature to have. It's worth noting that hobbyists often like to make DIY supplies out of ATX supplies because they are cheap and plentiful. ATX supplies, however, do not have any CC capability which means that if your test circuit shorts your DIY supply can easily destroy it or cause a fire. Other than a simple fuse, there's no way to prevent an ATX supply from outputting it's maximum current which can be as high as 25 amps. Nor will the supply's built-in 120V fuse protect your circuit. If you make such a supply, you should include some sort of CC circuit to prevent this from happening. Or use a true bench supply like those described in this video.
That's what puts me off of making an "ATX bench supply"... if it doesn't have CC then what's the point? I do need to look at some of the project vids though, to see if any of them have built in a CC circuit.
hi there , greetings from the Philippines, been watching and learning from your videos, like the way you explain things, pretty straight forward. Just to let you know , you have one brand new subscriber today!
I have one similar to your cheaper model but it's a Velleman. From what I can tell, the only difference is it lets you limit amps or volts by switching between the two. I really like it.
Hey note that on the TS100 all the caps are rated 24 volt. That means you are putting maximum stress on the caps. On my TS100 I never go over 22-23 volt in order to spare the caps. The difference in performance is so insignificant, but the TS100 will properly last a lot longer..
Love your videos. I think this power supply has usb connection on the back. You should try to make a LabVIEW VI for charging LiPo's. It's relatively straightforward and you will be able to get a graph and auto cut off too when fully charged. Also, I'm in the process of resurrecting my brother's dead EVGA 970. Following your process on the 960, I found a shorted MOSFET on one of the power phases and took it out. Walla short gone and system powers on and games rather well too. Didn't want to push it too hard as I'm waiting for replacement MOSFET, so hopefully I will get it back to full performance. Couldn't have done it without your video!
@@Adamant_ITIt turns out, I did have a bust driver as it blew up the replaced mosfet soon after I put some load on it! Luckily, I order a set of them as well and managed to replace it. Man they are fiddly as hell! Card was working again, but under load, it was only stable for like 10 mins or so and kept soft crashing. Had no trouble booting up into windows after each crash, so tried operating at lower power limts, down to 70% but stability gradually decreased and took out two more mosfets. Replaced those mosfets again and was playing snowrunder for about 1.5 hours and just as I thought it was fixed, soft crash! After a good night sleep, decided to check resistance to ground for all drivers and mosfets and noticed one of the pins of the the replaced driver was much lower resistance, which I think was causing the instability. So replaced it again and I played snowrunner for 3 hours non stop today without any issues, power limit set to 80% though as I didnt want to over stress it. So at this moment in time, out of the 12 mosfets, the original six show resistance to ground of ~14kOhms (this is for the pin number 1 and the other 3 are going to ground). Out of the six that I replaced, 4 are showing ~35 kOhms and two are showing ~14kOhms. So i'm not sure if they will degrade further or not. was temped to replace all 14k ones, but will see if card continues to run stable or not under load over the coming days. Fingers crossed. Still have 11 new mosfets and 7 new drivers. Good thing I ordered a full set plus some for cockups! :)
I make my own leads using 3 core flex. Particularly useful with dual power supplies that have pos,gnd,neg rails. With a bit of larger cable I even have a set 3m long so I can power stuff that will not fit on my bench.
I was considering why I would need one of these devices. I own a couple of 32/35 PSUs to power radios. I couldn't get my head around the current function on the bench power supplies. Why would I want to draw say 2amps through connected kit? Thanks to your video I now understand that the current display is set to a maximum allowable current been demanded by connected equipment. However what happens if you set the current to zero?
I have one similar to the left and you're right about it....when powered on in CC, it blasts my LEDs to freaking max amps for like a millisecond before current limiting them! Try it, you will literally throw that thing out the window after seeing that!
i love having a power supply were you dont have to short the leads to set the amps also i prefer to get the 10 amp model even if you dont think your gonna need it. in the long run your power supply does not need to work as hard as one that is 5 amp
Excellent video with lots of detailed information for beginners like me. Thank you. Unfortunately, the Hanmatek 305P is no longer available at Amazon. Do you recommend a different unit with pre-sets and is programable?
I have a basic 30v 10amp 4 digit with Watts power supply with a ground terminal which costed about £60. It also has a very useful USB port and is horizontal rather than vertical which is better for stacking in limited space. I considered getting a machine with a memory but I though I’d rarely use it and the model I was looking at only had 4 stars over about 200 reviews as well as being £40 more. Before getting that I had one of those £10 Ali Express things you have to wire into a case yourself. Off the top of my head I think that is 30v 4amps. At the moment I'm trying to learn how the 4N35 Octocoupler works and I’m glad I have both units.
I'm moving onto a narrow boat soon, I was wondering if these would run off my portable solar generator, its got a 1800 w inverter that will put the full wattage out continuously, so I would have thought It would work. I want to be able to fine tune charging smaller batteries and run bread boards lol, this electronics hobby, it's starting to drag me in,, im a complete beginner but it seems a great hobby for a small space, like my boat lol.
Thanks for a very usefull video. Could you say something about powering USB-powered devices with a bench PSU? If this sounds like a dumb question, here is what I mean: some of the bench PSUs have a dedicated USB output, which of course, looks like a handy thing to have. But then again, you should be able to attach a USB plug to any PSU, so that a built-in plug is not really necessary, right? But when I looked around for banana to usb adaptors, it seems that this is not something people commonly use. So I was wondering whether there is a reason for that. Maybe there is a point with the built-in USB, after all?
033021/0821h PST 🇺🇸 1621 UTC That was a fantastic lecture and practical demonstration of SMPS and its salient features. How I wish, at least, 10% of TH-cam Warriors could match up with you! Frustratingly what we get to watch and grumble is, big BS. Thank you, mate you made the day. Stay safe and 73s...
Great video, thank you. With the laptop powering part you know how you said it's possible to damage fuses in laptop chargers - wouldn't it be more expensive to damage the bench top power supply AND is there a chance that bench top power supply CAN be damaged by plugging it in to faulty laptops?
Bench power supplies are built to be abused, they can handle bad connections, shorts, transients, etc. Regular chargers and power adaptors will have some protection, but they're not _supposed_ to lean on those protections at all.
Nice response from u.. Very use video on buck converter. I am getting to understand short in a circuit how to determine what ohms is considered is to be a short and how does it depend on short in a circuit. I am a newbee to repair
The also make cheep ones with the output on off if you know to look for it. Adjustable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-5 A) with Output Enable/Disable Button HANMATEK HM305 Mini Variable Switching Digital Bench Power Supply www.amazon.com/dp/B0852JZQZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8PAA4266ZC2AFX5Q5AP7 But if you already own one that’s a good option. Just be careful not to add any resistance to the line or the readings will be off.
Tbh at that point you may as well just use a balance charger - which is a better way to charge a lipo like this. The main point of the demonstration is showing how bench PSUs can achieve voltage and current control automatically for you.
hey i just ordered the HM305p $70 .51 new on ebay... even your cheaper ps is good in a pinch.. however the 305 looks kool thanks for a great video...:)
I did, but it's currently privated because it has some misleading information in it, or rather, it's missing some very important points that need to be considered before injecting. I'm working on a new version that's a lot more comprehensive.
@Adamant_IT Can you do a video actually powering components such as, well I don't know... headlight assemblies ( that's what I want to really know lol )? I'm trying to figure out how much voltage and amps is needed to power the headlight assembly which says 12v 3.8 amps 55 watt. But it's that in total, or per bulb connection?
Good information even though it is 4 years old. On the topic of why someone would need 30A is charging larger battery packs. I have several 60V and 80V 5+Ah and larger packs that can take 10A+ for charging. Its still hard to find a desktop supply that will give me 82V for my biggest battery so I have even considered buying two 42V and running in serial.
As someone who has been out of the repair game for some time starting up again thanks for clearing up a few things, that hanmatek is definitely looking worth the extra £20. There seems to be a little confusion on amazon weather or not it is a hanmatek or rockseed although it looks like they are just rebrands we'll have to see how it goes I guess sadly when I started out it was all on gear I either repaired then inherited or made myself so shopping for things new is a bit of a nightmare and I'm at the point where buy once has rung very truthfully very loudly... I do want to ask of the cleanliness of the power supplied, have you tried it out on a scope to see if there is any noise or crosstalk coming through the output side? I only ask because I also do a lot of work on music equipment and I've run into a cross talking power supply having me chase my tail for longer than I am willing to admit XD
What are your thoughts in getting a switched power supply versus a linear one? I've only just learned about the difference. I was looking at a cheap switched power supply but now I'm thinking of getting a linear one for the same price instead since people have done videos on the noisy outputs some of them have.
Oh I just bought the cheaper unit... I wished I see this before I ordered. Looks like the programmable unit is no longer avaiable, do you have and alternative suggestion ?
have you had any issues with the switching power supply when working on phone and laptop PCBs? I see recommendations that a linear power supply would be better
That 3 cel lipo could have a single cel being way overcharged and another way undercharged. Charging without a balance charger is not recommended for LiPo's (unless the battery has a BMS).
Hi thank you for your videos they have been really helpful. I was wondering if you could give me some advice on how the settings should be set-up on the power supply machine the same model as you have for an iPhone? Your answer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! 🙂
this vid saved me from buying the small/cheaper unit, and going strait for the upgraded unit, for me its for primarily charging batteries of different types/capacities so the 10amp version would be best, be nice to have 100amps when i go to build my off grid lithium battery but.... be days not hours to charge is all. ill be able to run it off my lead acid solar setup no problems at 10amps.
Have you seen HANMATEK HM305? it's great for beginners 30v 10a small like the white one you have but u can file individual numbers and has the no current button as well. im loving it sofar but going for some nice leads for it now. do you happen to know were i can gett good quality ez hooks with gold plating?
I have a question. how do I disable short-circuits protection on that specific model to be able to use it for power injection?, really need your help, the information on the user manual is very basic.
Press the OCP button for Over Current Protection, and either set it to something like 5.5amps or tap OCP again so it switches off OCP. I have mine at the defaults, which should be OVP 33v and OCP 5.5a, which protects the PSU itself from going outside its capabilities.
What is the answer or solution to setting limit values to a charge - an Arduino device between the PS and battery? When current = xx, set PS to either standby or off.
That would work, but if you're going to that much trouble, you'd just get a proper Lipo Smart Charger that does proper balance charging as well. This is just a rough method of doing it, but also serves as an excellent demonstration of CC and CV.
Great informative video! Would you be able to use the cheaper power supply to charge a laptop battery as well? Or not because that one doesn't have the CC and CV modes? Thanks!
I need to do some research on what the rules are for charging laptop batts from bench PSUs... Laptop batts have a BMS (battery management system, a built-in controller) which has to allow the cells to be charged. Some I think you can charge directly, some need to be hot wired, or have a serial controller tell the BMS to accept charging.
You're wrong about the TS100 taking more amps when given more voltage. If you meant to say power, that would be right though. Regarding charging batteries at safe levels, then 1C is actually what keeps lipos live longer. Sure they can take much more, but not when you want them to last - that is only true when you don't actually leave them charged above 3.9V per cell for too long. If you don't plan to discharge them within a day or so, then put them to storage charge. I keep mine at around 3.75V to 3.85V per cell (around 50%) and at that voltage the're perfectly fine to still use them occasionally. After usage you can charge them back up to storage voltage. Oh and I'd strongly advice against charging multicell batteries like that, because single cells inside the pack can still be overcharged while others are under. When you don't have or want to use a balance charger or cell balancer, then take some jumper wires and charge it in multiple passes using the balance connector (and make sure all cells are charged to the same potential).
Lipo cells will increase in voltage up to their set value (typically up to 4.2v), but then after that they continue to soak up current until they're completely saturated. Think of it like inflating a balloon, you fill it up to a certain pressure (voltage), and then you can keep adding air and it will stretch to accommodate it. Reaching maximum voltage on a lipo pack is often only about 60-80% of the total energy they can store. This is why more advanced batteries (like laptop batts) have a BMS that counts milliwatt-hours of energy going in and out as the amount of charge, instead of just the voltage of the pack. Voltage is a rough estimate of charge level, but not the whole picture.
Hi. I've learnt so much from your channel it makes me want to experiment on some old broken laptops - just for the fun of it! The Hanmatek HM305P power supply would have been ideal but the Amazon link above says it is currently unavailable. In fact I cannot find it anywhere in the UK. I don't want to import it and risk paying customs duties. There is a HM305 (non-programmable) which also has the output button . Do you have any views on that? Thanks.
I'm just getting started tinkering with electronics and bought a $40 power unit from Amazon. This video was extremely helpful in learning the basics of how to use these things and what they are capable of. Thanks for the great video.
Im so freaking happy I discovered this channel. This guy is incredible. Not only I’m learning quite handy things, but I’m also enjoying the process since this guy is really likable. Instantly subbed. Great content, sir! Love it!
Same here.
Yeah man this guy's cool.
Yes me too I personally appreciate
I just love this guy, Adam I think his name is, I am 70 years old and have a great interest in pc repairs, I love the fact that there is no annoying music, his explanation is easy to understand. Watch all of his videos, liked and subscribed. Cheers from Ireland
I think this was the _most informative_ AND _easy to watch and understand_ video on power supplies I've seen. I love the way you presented it and the verbage you use to describe things resonates very well with me. Thanks a lot, keep it up!
You're really the only one that I've seen that's done a proper review of the HM305P. You're the one that's knocking me off the fence and ordering one.
Just excellent video - Thumbs up on production quality on: audio levels, lighting, camera and content. Thumbs up and subscribed.
Ever since you talked about your soldering tools specifically the PINE-64 I immediately ordered it thru Aliexpress and since receiving it and using it my soldering had never been the same, my soldering hobby had became more accurate and easier than my crappy soldering gun, thanks for sharing your videos
Thanks a lot for this video, I ordered a 10 amp model of the one you have and the output toggle is a huge advantage and I just love the unit a lot in general. I guess I was just spoiled by the expensive units my uni had and didn't realize that some features didn't exist on the cheap end. I was about to buy the cheaper one before but glad I didn't. Also discovered this great channel and have been binge watching for weeks. Long time ago I ordered a set of laptop plug adapters which came in incredibly handy for the bench supply as I can just have a single 5.5/2.5mm barrel jack on it and plug any of the adapters into it to turn it into any laptop power supply socket (apart from USB-C and the flat lenovo one I guess)
Quick note: CV and CC stand for Constant Voltage and Constant Current - not "control" :)
Was looking for this comment.
This is a nifty channel, thanks for all these tips ! It's nowadays rare to see a channel putting up non-nonsense content so I'm happy to have stumbled upon this series !
You are very gifted at relaying information in an easy to understand way! I'm happy I found your channel. Great video's all around :)
i am so glad you did this video , cutting of the wires for the broken chargers is so obvious but it never even occurred to me to do it !!
Well done! I'm sure you are helping to many people like me that is getting into electronics. Always helpful
He is indeed and I'm one of them
I am as well. He was the reason I bought the HM305P. AND what lab is complete without a BPS?
When charging LIPO batteries to 4.2v per cell you really need to put something to balance it on the balance wire leads. Even if that doesn’t talk to the power supply it will reduce the chance of over charging one cell and having it burst into flames.
The more you go over 1C in charging and discharging the battery the more important this is.
Just discovered your channel and thanks for sharing this helpful video and information.
Earlier today I ordered a Longwei 3010KDS from Amazon Prime with 2 days delivery. I appreciate your help in providing reviews on these items. I am in the process of building my Electronics home workshop for Amateur Radio and Model Railroading & model drones.
I subscribed to your TH-cam channel as well.
Great video you will a Professor one day if not already, very interesting i work on electric bikes, I to chop leads off battery chargers. I throw very little in the bin. If i was 30 years younger i would be your apprentice free for 12 months. Do keep the videos coming thank you Ron
You’re an awesome teacher, I really do appreciate your time
this js really awesome. I find your lectures amazingly great, it helps me discover things i never knew they were possible.
5:50 Glad you pointed this out. I have this model and was struggling with having to to set the current like that too.
I've been after one of these for a while. I tend to use salvaged PC PSUs for my 12 & 5V needs. The info about battery charging was very useful.
I'm gonna nitpick a bit, but CC and CV stands for Constant Current and Constant Voltage, not control current/voltage.
CV Stands for cock vagina
I've always referred to them as constant current/voltage but now that we're on topic, isn't the term 'constant' inappropriate here? Depending on the load the voltage and current would change. It's just that the voltage and current would never exceed the limits dialled in. In this context something like voltage/current 'limit' communicates thr intent much better.
Calling it control current or voltage is more appropriate imo
@How Not To Cream Cheese
Definitely go to EEVblog, very informative, very qualitative. And most importantly, you get the enthusiastic Aussie "Hi!" at the start of EVERY video. "Haw-ee!"
Everyone always assumes I know the most basic things in their beginner video. I had no idea i could set the amp by shorting out!!! You made my day.
the crazy thing about being self-taught and TH-cam-educated is that we often lose out on the baseline that people who are truly educated on a topic take for granted
CC is an extremely useful feature to have. It's worth noting that hobbyists often like to make DIY supplies out of ATX supplies because they are cheap and plentiful. ATX supplies, however, do not have any CC capability which means that if your test circuit shorts your DIY supply can easily destroy it or cause a fire. Other than a simple fuse, there's no way to prevent an ATX supply from outputting it's maximum current which can be as high as 25 amps. Nor will the supply's built-in 120V fuse protect your circuit. If you make such a supply, you should include some sort of CC circuit to prevent this from happening. Or use a true bench supply like those described in this video.
That's what puts me off of making an "ATX bench supply"... if it doesn't have CC then what's the point?
I do need to look at some of the project vids though, to see if any of them have built in a CC circuit.
@@Adamant_IT Two years on, have you seen any cool project vids that have CC circuits that you would recommend? Thanks & Cheers!
hi there , greetings from the Philippines, been watching and learning from your videos, like the way you explain things, pretty straight forward. Just to let you know , you have one brand new subscriber today!
I have one similar to your cheaper model but it's a Velleman. From what I can tell, the only difference is it lets you limit amps or volts by switching between the two. I really like it.
Hey note that on the TS100 all the caps are rated 24 volt. That means you are putting maximum stress on the caps. On my TS100 I never go over 22-23 volt in order to spare the caps. The difference in performance is so insignificant, but the TS100 will properly last a lot longer..
3:40 it has some kind of load inside to be able to short both clips together like that? isnt that a short circuit? why no sparks?
Well done, you're amazing, with the explanation you give, on all issues.
Thanks! Had to go through three other videos until I found this one to finally understand how to use one of these devices ;-)
Love your videos. I think this power supply has usb connection on the back. You should try to make a LabVIEW VI for charging LiPo's. It's relatively straightforward and you will be able to get a graph and auto cut off too when fully charged. Also, I'm in the process of resurrecting my brother's dead EVGA 970. Following your process on the 960, I found a shorted MOSFET on one of the power phases and took it out. Walla short gone and system powers on and games rather well too. Didn't want to push it too hard as I'm waiting for replacement MOSFET, so hopefully I will get it back to full performance. Couldn't have done it without your video!
Good luck dude! Hopefully you don't have a busted driver that keeps blowing up mosfets like I did!
@@Adamant_ITIt turns out, I did have a bust driver as it blew up the replaced mosfet soon after I put some load on it! Luckily, I order a set of them as well and managed to replace it. Man they are fiddly as hell! Card was working again, but under load, it was only stable for like 10 mins or so and kept soft crashing. Had no trouble booting up into windows after each crash, so tried operating at lower power limts, down to 70% but stability gradually decreased and took out two more mosfets. Replaced those mosfets again and was playing snowrunder for about 1.5 hours and just as I thought it was fixed, soft crash!
After a good night sleep, decided to check resistance to ground for all drivers and mosfets and noticed one of the pins of the the replaced driver was much lower resistance, which I think was causing the instability. So replaced it again and I played snowrunner for 3 hours non stop today without any issues, power limit set to 80% though as I didnt want to over stress it. So at this moment in time, out of the 12 mosfets, the original six show resistance to ground of ~14kOhms (this is for the pin number 1 and the other 3 are going to ground). Out of the six that I replaced, 4 are showing ~35 kOhms and two are showing ~14kOhms. So i'm not sure if they will degrade further or not. was temped to replace all 14k ones, but will see if card continues to run stable or not under load over the coming days. Fingers crossed. Still have 11 new mosfets and 7 new drivers. Good thing I ordered a full set plus some for cockups! :)
I make my own leads using 3 core flex. Particularly useful with dual power supplies that have pos,gnd,neg rails. With a bit of larger cable I even have a set 3m long so I can power stuff that will not fit on my bench.
you ask if this was useful...... yes it is, that's why we watch these videos and we press the like button. I enjoyed this video
Very informative and fun to watch. Can't wait for the next one!
Very informative! Look forward to the next one. Thanks.
Thank you! I learned so much! I'm going to order that PSU and start having some fun!
So glad i found this channel. Very informative. Thanks!
This is why salvaging those charge protection circuit boards off LiPo batteries is something everyone should do!
Thanks for this video. I just got a psu and didn't know about shorting the wires to set the amps.
This is exactly the video I was looking for
Thank you, I've been looking for a good bench power. You've given me some valuable information I can use when shopping for one.
I was considering why I would need one of these devices. I own a couple of 32/35 PSUs to power radios. I couldn't get my head around the current function on the bench power supplies. Why would I want to draw say 2amps through connected kit? Thanks to your video I now understand that the current display is set to a maximum allowable current been demanded by connected equipment. However what happens if you set the current to zero?
I have one similar to the left and you're right about it....when powered on in CC, it blasts my LEDs to freaking max amps for like a millisecond before current limiting them!
Try it, you will literally throw that thing out the window after seeing that!
Interesting, I did actually check the overshoot on mine one time and found no issue. Wouldn't surprise me if there's a lot of variation though.
this channel ROCKS !!
I have that Hanmatek in the 310 version. (36v/10A) Great supply for the money, feature rich, and its power is fairly clean.
i love having a power supply were you dont have to short the leads to set the amps also i prefer to get the 10 amp model even if you dont think your gonna need it. in the long run your power supply does not need to work as hard as one that is 5 amp
Excellent video with lots of detailed information for beginners like me. Thank you. Unfortunately, the Hanmatek 305P is no longer available at Amazon. Do you recommend a different unit with pre-sets and is programable?
You're the best! I just bought the cheaper unit and definitely sending it back and getting the one you recommended
You can ballance charge though the ballance lead one cell at a time. Just dont forget to ballance them all before using the battery
do have a link on his channel? the blog you talking about or did any one here found it?
blog about power suplpy...
I have a basic 30v 10amp 4 digit with Watts power supply with a ground terminal which costed about £60. It also has a very useful USB port and is horizontal rather than vertical which is better for stacking in limited space. I considered getting a machine with a memory but I though I’d rarely use it and the model I was looking at only had 4 stars over about 200 reviews as well as being £40 more. Before getting that I had one of those £10 Ali Express things you have to wire into a case yourself. Off the top of my head I think that is 30v 4amps. At the moment I'm trying to learn how the 4N35 Octocoupler works and I’m glad I have both units.
I'm moving onto a narrow boat soon, I was wondering if these would run off my portable solar generator, its got a 1800 w inverter that will put the full wattage out continuously, so I would have thought It would work.
I want to be able to fine tune charging smaller batteries and run bread boards lol, this electronics hobby, it's starting to drag me in,, im a complete beginner but it seems a great hobby for a small space, like my boat lol.
Thanks for a very usefull video. Could you say something about powering USB-powered devices with a bench PSU? If this sounds like a dumb question, here is what I mean: some of the bench PSUs have a dedicated USB output, which of course, looks like a handy thing to have. But then again, you should be able to attach a USB plug to any PSU, so that a built-in plug is not really necessary, right? But when I looked around for banana to usb adaptors, it seems that this is not something people commonly use. So I was wondering whether there is a reason for that. Maybe there is a point with the built-in USB, after all?
Hi Adam
Dose this ps have a protection against shorts? Like when you inject voltage?
Thank you
033021/0821h PST 🇺🇸 1621 UTC That was a fantastic lecture and practical demonstration of SMPS and its salient features. How I wish, at least, 10% of TH-cam Warriors could match up with you! Frustratingly what we get to watch and grumble is, big BS. Thank you, mate you made the day. Stay safe and 73s...
What's with the twisted pairs @ 19:57? Is there a purpose for that or?
I was trying to find your injection video to no avail. Could you post link please??
Great video, thank you. With the laptop powering part you know how you said it's possible to damage fuses in laptop chargers - wouldn't it be more expensive to damage the bench top power supply AND is there a chance that bench top power supply CAN be damaged by plugging it in to faulty laptops?
Bench power supplies are built to be abused, they can handle bad connections, shorts, transients, etc.
Regular chargers and power adaptors will have some protection, but they're not _supposed_ to lean on those protections at all.
@@Adamant_IT legend, thanks
Nice response from u.. Very use video on buck converter. I am getting to understand short in a circuit how to determine what ohms is considered is to be a short and how does it depend on short in a circuit. I am a newbee to repair
Very nice and well explained, thx. Great voice recording btw, loud and clear.
On the cheap supply, you could just install a switch on the case somewhere turning off the power to the leads.
The also make cheep ones with the output on off if you know to look for it.
Adjustable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-5 A) with Output Enable/Disable Button HANMATEK HM305 Mini Variable Switching Digital Bench Power Supply www.amazon.com/dp/B0852JZQZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8PAA4266ZC2AFX5Q5AP7
But if you already own one that’s a good option. Just be careful not to add any resistance to the line or the readings will be off.
I really like that unit you have there. Unfortunately it is unavailable in the US is there anywhere else may I be able to find one?
5:00 is that a quake 3 menu sound?
10:21 - Thanks for the clarity. Maybe, sometime show a circuit that would utilize the balancing cable with your P/S.
Tbh at that point you may as well just use a balance charger - which is a better way to charge a lipo like this. The main point of the demonstration is showing how bench PSUs can achieve voltage and current control automatically for you.
hey i just ordered the HM305p $70 .51 new on ebay... even your cheaper ps is good in a pinch.. however the 305 looks kool thanks for a great video...:)
Graham, Did you do a follow up about voltage injection?
I did, but it's currently privated because it has some misleading information in it, or rather, it's missing some very important points that need to be considered before injecting. I'm working on a new version that's a lot more comprehensive.
@Adamant_IT Can you do a video actually powering components such as, well I don't know... headlight assemblies ( that's what I want to really know lol )? I'm trying to figure out how much voltage and amps is needed to power the headlight assembly which says 12v 3.8 amps 55 watt. But it's that in total, or per bulb connection?
Good information even though it is 4 years old. On the topic of why someone would need 30A is charging larger battery packs. I have several 60V and 80V 5+Ah and larger packs that can take 10A+ for charging. Its still hard to find a desktop supply that will give me 82V for my biggest battery so I have even considered buying two 42V and running in serial.
As someone who has been out of the repair game for some time starting up again thanks for clearing up a few things, that hanmatek is definitely looking worth the extra £20. There seems to be a little confusion on amazon weather or not it is a hanmatek or rockseed although it looks like they are just rebrands we'll have to see how it goes I guess sadly when I started out it was all on gear I either repaired then inherited or made myself so shopping for things new is a bit of a nightmare and I'm at the point where buy once has rung very truthfully very loudly...
I do want to ask of the cleanliness of the power supplied, have you tried it out on a scope to see if there is any noise or crosstalk coming through the output side? I only ask because I also do a lot of work on music equipment and I've run into a cross talking power supply having me chase my tail for longer than I am willing to admit XD
What are your thoughts in getting a switched power supply versus a linear one? I've only just learned about the difference. I was looking at a cheap switched power supply but now I'm thinking of getting a linear one for the same price instead since people have done videos on the noisy outputs some of them have.
can you do some video on motherboard repair of jvc projectors
Hi the clip you used for the ts100 did you make this yourself or purchase, is so can you provide a link..thanks
Oh I just bought the cheaper unit... I wished I see this before I ordered. Looks like the programmable unit is no longer avaiable, do you have and alternative suggestion ?
Can I combine multiple bench psus by sharing the ground and have different output voltages?
Awesome video, perfectly explained. Thanks you so much
Yes, my Hanmatek just arrived - what a pretty thing.
have you had any issues with the switching power supply when working on phone and laptop PCBs? I see recommendations that a linear power supply would be better
Great video mate...i hsve the hammotek u have...does ur fan on the unit stay on all time or no?
Awesome video! Thanks, I bought an inexpensive Bench Power Supply but need to learn how to use it.
That 3 cel lipo could have a single cel being way overcharged and another way undercharged. Charging without a balance charger is not recommended for LiPo's (unless the battery has a BMS).
a lot better than the manual, thanks
Hi thank you for your videos they have been really helpful. I was wondering if you could give me some advice on how the settings should be set-up on the power supply machine the same model as you have for an iPhone? Your answer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! 🙂
So are you selling that finicky psu bro. For starter like me it will be good than nothing.
this vid saved me from buying the small/cheaper unit, and going strait for the upgraded unit, for me its for primarily charging batteries of different types/capacities so the 10amp version would be best, be nice to have 100amps when i go to build my off grid lithium battery but.... be days not hours to charge is all. ill be able to run it off my lead acid solar setup no problems at 10amps.
I received my HM305P and my electronics lab has gotten tons more interesting. What lab is complete without one? Thank you, good sir!
I'm looking to build a 48v p04 bank with 16 cells what psu would you recommend to test/charge it
Hay man new sub been watching your motherboard repairs from 2 years would love to see more laptop repair and strip downs if you don't mind.
Brilliant video. Thank you
Thanks alot sir .do you have online lesson you are running.if so I am willing to join your class
Have you seen HANMATEK HM305? it's great for beginners 30v 10a small like the white one you have but u can file individual numbers and has the no current button as well. im loving it sofar but going for some nice leads for it now. do you happen to know were i can gett good quality ez hooks with gold plating?
I have a question. how do I disable short-circuits protection on that specific model to be able to use it for power injection?, really need your help, the information on the user manual is very basic.
Press the OCP button for Over Current Protection, and either set it to something like 5.5amps or tap OCP again so it switches off OCP.
I have mine at the defaults, which should be OVP 33v and OCP 5.5a, which protects the PSU itself from going outside its capabilities.
I cant seem to find the video of voltage injection using this power supply
What is the answer or solution to setting limit values to a charge - an Arduino device between the PS and battery? When current = xx, set PS to either standby or off.
That would work, but if you're going to that much trouble, you'd just get a proper Lipo Smart Charger that does proper balance charging as well. This is just a rough method of doing it, but also serves as an excellent demonstration of CC and CV.
@@Adamant_IT Which ps would you recommend which has a limit setting.
I came to see the features of this bench power supply, but stayed for the value added bonus info at no extra charge.
So other power supply can’t do any of those things right?
Great informative video!
Would you be able to use the cheaper power supply to charge a laptop battery as well? Or not because that one doesn't have the CC and CV modes?
Thanks!
I need to do some research on what the rules are for charging laptop batts from bench PSUs...
Laptop batts have a BMS (battery management system, a built-in controller) which has to allow the cells to be charged. Some I think you can charge directly, some need to be hot wired, or have a serial controller tell the BMS to accept charging.
@@Adamant_IT OK, thanks. But you can use the cheaper PSU to charge the same battery you charge in the video exactly the same way?
Hi, are you still using this bench Power supply today or have purchased another make? Thank you the great videos, Cheers Paul
Yup, still using this one 👍
You're wrong about the TS100 taking more amps when given more voltage. If you meant to say power, that would be right though. Regarding charging batteries at safe levels, then 1C is actually what keeps lipos live longer. Sure they can take much more, but not when you want them to last - that is only true when you don't actually leave them charged above 3.9V per cell for too long. If you don't plan to discharge them within a day or so, then put them to storage charge. I keep mine at around 3.75V to 3.85V per cell (around 50%) and at that voltage the're perfectly fine to still use them occasionally. After usage you can charge them back up to storage voltage. Oh and I'd strongly advice against charging multicell batteries like that, because single cells inside the pack can still be overcharged while others are under. When you don't have or want to use a balance charger or cell balancer, then take some jumper wires and charge it in multiple passes using the balance connector (and make sure all cells are charged to the same potential).
how do you explain the battery accepting a current despite being at the desired voltage? 16:00
Lipo cells will increase in voltage up to their set value (typically up to 4.2v), but then after that they continue to soak up current until they're completely saturated.
Think of it like inflating a balloon, you fill it up to a certain pressure (voltage), and then you can keep adding air and it will stretch to accommodate it.
Reaching maximum voltage on a lipo pack is often only about 60-80% of the total energy they can store. This is why more advanced batteries (like laptop batts) have a BMS that counts milliwatt-hours of energy going in and out as the amount of charge, instead of just the voltage of the pack. Voltage is a rough estimate of charge level, but not the whole picture.
ok thanks for that analogy and explanation
whats the difference between the hm305p and hm 305? just asking because the 305 is cheaper
Hi. I've learnt so much from your channel it makes me want to experiment on some old broken laptops - just for the fun of it! The Hanmatek HM305P power supply would have been ideal but the Amazon link above says it is currently unavailable. In fact I cannot find it anywhere in the UK. I don't want to import it and risk paying customs duties. There is a HM305 (non-programmable) which also has the output button . Do you have any views on that? Thanks.
Cheers! This one is going to be basically the same... same unit different name on the front by the looks of things: amzn.to/33XkT7w
Great video! Thanks! I learned a lot.