Mister "I added in, a brand new 1060" You've gotta swab, your thermal blob You ain't never had a gen, never had a gen You ain't never had a gen, never had a gen You ain't NEVER HAD A GEN LIKE PCI-EEEEEEEEEEE You ain't never had a gen like PCI-E (Gen-3 hah!)
Seriously this. Your taste will change, perhaps even the room or desk, stuff doesn't normally break but can and eventually software gets too heavy, or you get into some new facet of the PC world only to discover your motherboard or other part is going to be a bitch about it. I'm pretty sure you can just endlessly throw money at a PC, especially considering anything pluged into it as part of the overall cost.
Some of the things I would mention in my experience are: Allow plenty of time for your build. I took a week off from work so I wouldn't have to stress about time. The first day off, I physically planned my build, staging my build space and components and getting my tools ready. The second day I built the PC. I did the POST and installed Windows, then worked on cable management. The third (and fourth) day I began downloading/installing my software and games. By the 5th day I was able to sit back and relax and enjoy my new PC. Also, make sure to have internet access while you are doing your build. Whether it's another PC, laptop, or smartphone, make sure you have the ability to get online and troubleshoot in the forums if you have problems. Always have at least one USB flash drive handy. They can be lifesavers if you need to transfer software, drivers, or patches to your new PC. Remember to inspect each part and remove the plastic protection on things like your CPU cooler block, GPU backplate and fans, and your PSU. If you forget to remove the plastic, you could get a strange smell when your PC heats up or (worst case) you could start a fire. Last but not least: Take your time and don't be afraid to take things apart again if you run into trouble. Sometimes you'll forget to plug a cable in, or you'll plug it into the wrong place and you can't figure out why your PC is misbehaving. If you have no idea why your hardware is acting up, take it apart and inspect your connections. Take a break if you need to. Sometimes a fresh set of eyes will find that silly little mistake you made.
I think rule #0 should be, once you buy it, it's obsolete. This makes buyer's remorse a lot easier when the newest CPU or nvme drive comes out a week later, at half the price. 😂
WHY? My current build will wind up having all RGB turned OFF, except for the case! I am customizing separate RGB designs, not part of any of the system, to use in my case, and possibly outside of the case, such as on my printer. :-p I will use some other things people don't usually use. This build will definitely be, one of a kind! :-)
!!!YES!!! and put the case on your desk close to your display so it fucking glows like in Las Vegas while you play your favorite game, helps you focus :)
My tip would be about the cpu socket thingy that keeps the cpu in place: It requires a fuckton of force (not actually that much but it is much more than you would expect)
I know I'm 6 months late but what Dimitri meant was _placing_ the CPU in the socket, not lowering the CPU socket lever which _does_ require more force than one might assume
I agree but when I was installing my mother board it took me 15 minutes! 10 of those searching for one screw hiding behind the tray so I had enough and stole my dad's magnetic screwdriver
All these "computer building tipzz" videos need to start mentioning the LGA "crunch" when you install an LGA CPU. First time builders are more often than not terrified of it and think they broke their parts before they even started.
After 7 years, he didn't mention the most important point. BUDGET, or, how long you can tolerate waiting to finish the build to increase that budget, E.G., buying parts as you go! AND, researching to make sure none of those parts will be different or better, and affordable, _before_ you can finish the build! NEXT: After deciding what platform, for instance, AMD or Intel, the mainboard should be chosen, FIRST! THEN, use mainboard compatibility list, especially for RAM! Also, don't scrimp on case, power supply, and especially monitor! Then you can go buy a frigging magnetic screw driver. *LOL!*
My PC maintenance top tip: If you do happen to get scratches on your glass panels, all you need is some toothpaste and a microfiber cloth or other lint-free cloth. Put a bead of toothpaste on the scratch and buff it out with the cloth. Wipe the toothpaste off and then clean with Windex. Repeat as necessary. It might take some time, several attempts and a fair bit of elbow grease, but you can improve or entirely remove scratches in glass. The minor abrasives in most toothpaste can smooth the scratch out and make it very difficult or impossible to see with the naked eye.
A belated tip for first-time builders: set more money aside than you think you'll need, and set a few cardboard boxes aside for potential returns. You'll make mistakes in your parts selection, guaranteed - even if you use PCPartPicker. All it takes is a spur-of-the-moment hardware shift or a case change, and clearance issues might arise. There's also plenty of instances where something like a low-profile cooling fan *might* successfully mount on your CPU socket, but with your unlocked processor requiring some under-volting for the fan to be able to keep up. If you've just bought a beefy PSU and intend to try your hand at overclocking, this is not a mistake you want to make. That ties into a second tip: the smaller your form factor, the more limited your capability - and the more complex the parts and cable management. For your first-time build, go absolutely ham with a full-tower or mid-tower chassis and an ATX board. Give yourself plenty of expandability, and learn to appreciate the breathing room these bigger cases offer. A full-size ATX case is the best possible environment in which to fuck up - preferrably with a white or colored case, for the sake of making loose screws easier to track down. Lastly, don't feel too pressured to join the ITX or MITX bandwagons, especially if visual fidelity matters to you as a gamer. Full-fat cards are generally easier to get ahold of for longer periods, and you'll want all the clearance you can get to accomodate them. I've built a chunky ITX with a friend and I love it to bits, but lining up that RTX 2080 Super with the PCI-E slot in the darkness of the narrow space left at the bottom of the board took two pairs of hands, three lamps, two flashlights and an eraser tip to prod the slot's release mechanism. Absolute Hell, no holds barred.
Great tips Dimitri. REally like the tip on loading / updating / installing windows etc BEFORE you put the hardware in. I've built 5 to 8 rigs in my 8 years playing with computers but I never thought about that one. Thanks for the tip man, and keep up the great work with the videos !
Good video. Another tip about grounding is, have the PSU power cable plugged into the wall socket. Have the cable plugged into the PSU unit, BUT only have the PSU switch in the OFF position. This will ground the case and you'll be fine as you are touching the case. Again good tips.
At 5:10 your AIO tubing connection at the top of the radiator is the highest point of the loop. This very thing has caused me headaches with my h100i. Air bubbles at that high point resulted in the pump starving. Sounded like a cat after a Metallica concert. I realize this is not an improper way to mount those coolers and many people do it successfully, but it's still something to keep in mind. Some loops just happen to have more air than others. In my case, the cooler was already out of warranty when I decided to reposition it. It didn't go well, but simply reverting to the original position solved the problem. Kind of. My pump is halfway to heaven. It does still sounds like crap when it starts up it quiets down after a few seconds. When it dies I'm getting a Dark Rock or something similar. Another general tip: don't put plants on top of electronics if you live in a house with females. They will water it without remorse.
- Make sure to peel off the plastic sheet on the baseplate of your CPU cooler. I made that mistake. Twice. - Make sure that the baseplate of your CPU cooler isn't in interference with your motherboard VRM capacitors. I had this issue with the CoolerMaster Seidon 120V, which features a rectangular-shaped baseplate. Somehow I didn't manage to kill my i7-3770 in the process of doing those mistakes... Somehow.
Here's my tips. 1. Start your build around 8PM after a stressfull day at work. Even better - crack open a couple of cans of your favourite beer "to get in the flow". 2. Start reading the manual, then after 5 minutes throw it away cause if you have any trouble theres always help on the tinternet! 3. Never mind about that missing riser - you've screwed in enough already. 4. Static electricity, touch the case (only works if you have the power supply plugged in by the way!) 5,. Get interupted by Wife, Kids, Friends from outta town. You can always pick it up after 11PM no probs. 6. If it doent fit properly then use a bit of force as these cables and sockets are up to a bit of abuse. Give it a bit of welly! 7. If there isn't a spark of life when you first hit that power on button - dont worry you're doing it all wrong. Just pull it all apart and start again. 8. At 3AM resist the urge to sleep as thats when all the answers to your build issues "come to you" 9. Remember - building a PC is fun and a "great learning experience!".
The things I look in a case is,1. How am I going to cool the components that it is housing and is there room to install everything I would like to install in this case. (Using a AIO Liquid cooler radiator (120mm, 140mm, 240mm and so on and will the fans and radiator fit where you want to place it) or a CPU Air cooler(cooler height and RAM clearance should be taken account for which CPU air cooler you would like to use), expansions slots (GPU's and other components), how many fans you would like to use (I use 4 minimum (I count AIO coolers as an intake or exhaust depending how you set it up) but can go down to 2 fans (intake and exhaust)2. Cable management. (how you can route the cables and secure the cables so they will not come into contact with the fans, doesn't block air flow and look nice)3. Construction materials and sturdiness. (Metal, plastic, (Metal is more sturdy but vibrates more, plastic is less sturdy but vibrates less. a mixture of both that can be both sturdy and causes less vibration is best) sound dampening materials (ex. rubber feet for HDD's bays to sound absorption pads) and dust filters) (the more sturdy the case is, the less vibration and noise you will have. also rubber feet on the bottom of the case to keep it from sliding and transferring noise)4. Do you like the look of the case and are your willing to buy it for the asking price.For me if I don't check all 4 things, I look for a different a different case.5. (optional) If RGB is a big thing for you add this to your list but you can always add RGB in a case that doesn't have any RGB.On this list on requirements to look for, it is hard to find a case under $70 USD. Just remember if you really like the case you can use it for future builds when your old components are becoming obsolete and that will save you money for your next build.
Static Discharge, lol. The trickiest part for me when I assembled my PC in 2011 was mounting the CPU heatsink. Worrying about paste going onto the mobo.
Very nice video tips. But before I was about to build my own beast pc I watched a lot of tech and already did all of it perfectly. Didn't even check if it powers up outside first, just put it inside the case the Button press test and worked like butter. The only thing I didn't know was the 8 pin cpu connector which did give me a bit of work :) but my cable management is really good anyway
i was working with a corsair 400c (case without much headroom at the top) and with a massive NH-d15 cooler. It was one hell of a gymnastic and perseverance exercise to get my 8-pin cpu power plugged in. It required me to bend my hand and fingers in ways i never thought imaginable :o
Thank you for this, I’m thinking of building a computer for a long time and I needed research. This has amazing visuals and had allowed me to feel better educated before I buy a bunch of expensive parts and breaking them because I have lack in knowledge. I have a few questions about using a thing that looks like a USB stick to install windows 10, I’ve seen people use those and it works out well for them, I wanted to know if it’s a good idea?
I built my own PC. At first I was bewildered, now I am considering more options... cable management and perhaps cooling , although I spent a lot already, but wisely. Cool videos
Thanks for the rubber fan screws tip! I didn't know they existed.I was having issues with my Define R5 buzzing due to fan vibration. I bought some rubber fan screws for a few bucks off amazon and the buzzing is gone.
Bitwit did an experiment a while back comparing vertical to horizontal CPU cooler placement. Test results showed vertical placement resulted in higher CPU temps. At the time he didn't know why, but after watching a JayzTwoCents flir video I think I figured it out. The backplate on a GPU puts out a lot of heat and facing your CPU cooler fan towards that backplate will result in higher temperature air being fed through the CPU cooler.
Keep in mind, graphics cards give off a lot of heat. While heat rises, it is usually better to have your CPU heatsink taking in cooler air from the front of the case (in most configurations).
I used to "plug in" front panel pins (like power button, reset button, HDD LED, power LED) before putting the motherboard inside, because I'm one of those that finding a hard time plug it in (USB/audio headers are still a lot easier tho)
From experience... If you have a modular PSU ; setup what connectors you need and for non modular ones; use zip ties to clean which cable you don't need. Also PSU goes in 1st and then mobo... trust me it saves a lot of time for a beginner
Lower the mobo into the case in an angled fashion, so first you will align the IO ports with the shield, then, when it is more or less aligned - lower the rest of the motherboard and at the same time push it towards that shield so you can align it with the support for motherboard screws.
I had the same issue on my first build with a somewhat cheap motherboard. Just a simple stamped sheet metal io shield and all these little tabs sticking out around where the ports should be. i just cut them all off with a dremel, but im sure simply bending them and test fitting the plate against the ports outside of the case will help with some headaches C:
Buy artic p12 120mm fans for intake. Make system restore points incase a driver goes bad etc. Never force any part while building! Always check on what type of screw you will need on the motherboard stands(there isn't 1 standart you can jam it lol). Always buy the better power supply. For a millisecond your cpu can draw 100 Watts and for a millisecond your gpu can draw 300 Watts power. Motherboard draws 50 watts+30 for fans ssd hdd lights. It you use 450 Watts psu, rip. Cheap psu's don't deliver advertised power. Always buy higher wattage and better psu while not breaking the bank Some cheap psu's will have too thin cables that will catch fire under heavy load.. You can buy old server power supplies they are top notch quality! Never ever do auto overclock on motherboard They usually give very high voltage starting at 1.4v even 1.5v(kills instantly) Don't look at benchmarks too much for cpu's. They use superior rams you won't buy most probably! Also if you buy Intel H and B series motherboards your ram will be limited in speed thus you're performance will be whole lot of different different than benchmarks. Benchmaarks usually overlooks strutters I had 9400f with z370 and 3000mhz cl15 ram. It had strutters in far cry 5. I sold it and bought 9600kf. It didn't have that issue.... 9600 and 9400 are 2 different worlds... Different stepping, soldered ihs vs thermal paste. İ5 kf is a good option imho even at 10th gen. But mostly R3 3300x is enough as it looks. B450 costs 70.$ and it supports 4xxx series.... So there is room for upgrade while Z490m costs 150 usd. And god knows 12th gen won't be supported on Z490. Not enough room for upgrade lol. R3 3300x 120 usd then you can jump to r5 4600 for 220 usd. It will be a reasonable jump. But I don't suggest cpu ungrades that quick tho.... Always check reviews before buying motherboard and gpu. Same graphics card will be different in thermal performance in other brands! Some will have better power delivery etc. Some will have better memory and pcb.. Also some mobo will be daisy chain some dual topology. Some better pcb etc higher ram kits is based on mobo quality and then cpu uncore. Don't buy cheap but veery rgb cases.most cheap cases with glass front panel has a very narrow opening for air flow. They usually choke. Your gpu will be running hot and louder. Which degrades the silicon faster Don't underestimate artic p12 120mm. They dropped my gpu temps 80 to 75 at 155 Watts load 3200rpm to 2400 rpm respectively. At 120 Watts from 77 degrees 2700 rpm to 69 degrees 1800 rpm. Huge imho.
My son and I built his system outside of the case, and then wasted 2 hours because we didn't know how to turn the system on correctly (you can't just turn on the power supply) Some nice guy on one of the LTT forums finally told us we had to use a paperclip to short out two pins on the motherboard. I have watched many many build videos and not one of them has ever mentioned how to start the test system. Including your video.
if you think about it... what the case power switch does is exactly shorting the two power switch pins when you press it. you can always plug it to the motherboard outside the case if you feel better, or salvage a switch from an old case (they're all the same). surely I won't pay 20 more for a motherboard just for the switch
Tip: If you dont have a magnetic screw driver and have a spare magnet lying around.. Rub the magnet on screwdriver in one direction and it will make it magnetic ;)
Is it a good idea to use the stock cooler for the Ryzen 5 3600, if you don’t plan to over clock. I also bought the Gigabyte RTX 2070 SUPER 8 WINDFORCE OC 3X which has three fans to go with it. And the case will have 4 total fans.
Because I find magnetic screwdrivers horridly aggravating when not in use (Collecting metal shavings to prick your fingers in the screwdriver drawer, etc) I find it easier to simply magnetize whichever size I gotta use when I gotta use it. If ya don't have a magnet, just take one from dead HDD. Works perfectly for holding on to screws when you want it, and wont' attract every little metal thing in your drawer for the rest of time.
Confused which case too get for my first pc build 1)Corsair spec 04 2)Cooler master masterbox 5 lite rgb 3)phanteks p300 4)Nzxt s340 elite Case should have good airflow
Man, I kinda feel like an idjut. I knew that DIMMS had a preferred install order when only using two sticks, but never made the connection that you used the non-black ones. I've figured most of these things out by trial and error. The first one I learned the hard way was my first build. I put the PC inside the case, it didn't fire up. I hadn't seated the 24 pin power all the way in, but I hadn't spotted that before pulling everything out of the case. I build everything outside the case now before installing! Those SATA power cables annoy me thanks to most configurations when you daisy chain them you have to bend them to the side to get the back case door. Cool tips for those learning how to build, Dmitri.
Very Important Things to Build a PC! I understand read english, but sadly I don´t speak it. I´m use automatic generated subs to read what saying Dimitry and his partner. But I love it. In this video I had to put 0.75x speed because Dimitry talks to fast and I want to learn all tips and write in my notepad. But it's really worth it ;) I hope you can understand this comment ;)
@@est495 with flatheads you can just rub them against a magnet, and if you have some very small magnets you can do the same withg the groves in a philips.
Make sure to pull the tabs up on the shield before mounting the motherboard, and definitely check after installation that the metal tabs are not in front of the USB plugs or ethernet otherwise they could cause a short and fry your motherboard.
Use the provided mobo mounting screws that come with the case ;) Tried to use my spare parts screws -> no go :( Also, on modular PSU, install the cables into the PSU BEFORE mounting ;)
@HardwareCanucks ... Good video! Although, you missed the most important point... PERIOD _... before you even buy!_ Once you finally choose your mainboard, *check your mainboard compatibility list!* For instance, I am doing a new build. Out of the 4 different sets of DDR4 I chose as potential parts, _none of them were on the list!_ It took me a long time, but I finally found a set of 2400x3200x3200 DDR4 2x16 that I like, in all aspects, including timing and visuals, and all slots being occupied. But yes, visualize your build, from start to finish, and take notes, till you're blue in the face! :-) Many people have to live with their build for years. BTW, an important video you could do is on RAM, versus occupying two or four slots, etc. RAM seems to cause more imagined or real problems for people than anything else. NOTE: To whoever, for the vast majority of people/builds, you don't need more than 2x8 of RAM. 2x8 is more than enough! IMPORTANT NOTE: A person can also research mainboard BIOS to see how it prioritizes 'one or two sided' RAM, if at all. (BTW, that's not really the correct way to describe RAM.) For instance, the newest BIOS for my aforementioned build states: "2. This BIOS fixes the following problem of the previous version: Optimized for the newest single-sided 16GB and double-sided 32GB memory (2Gx8 memory chip)" It's just something people can look into. One more little tip, which is not as important now, not using mechanical HDD's. Set your OS 'page file' as static, about twice what your system recommends, in 1024 increments. But, even on SSD's, it's good to keep your 'page file' from fluctuating in size. Don't scrimp on case or power supply, and especially the monitor. The monitor will be the visual result of everything your build consists of, in total. Know you are going to be happy when in front of it! If your budget is small, use 1080 as the base line, _not_ 1440, for everything. For instance, a 1660 Super graphics card, (or 1660 Ti ). Yes, _I_ prefer Nvidia. If you are limited, then AMD, of course. FYI, AMD FreeSync, used with Nvidia, is not true G-Sync.
Hey, if I want to upgrade my pc with new RAM’s and a new graphic card, can I use my old and both new RAM’s together if they all fit? And the same with graphic card, so I can use two graphic cards. Cause that would be pretty awesome to re use them and make my pc a bit more powerful...
I didnt know Starlord is a youtuber
Mana I just watched this Video and searched for exactly this comment 😂
Lmao 😂😂
So Underrated!!!
You read my mind
Yeah but i dont know where are all the other avengers
PC parts picker. It does a great job of checking for comparability before you buy.
John Jurmu also helps with finding parts
@@adamdennis7266 does it help with dimensions compatibility too?
TheDJkarsy there are parts that state all compatibility issues like bios updates and dimensions, so yes
@@TheDJkarsy nope
WHY U THROW FRED
Adventure Guy :'(
R.i.p
Lmao it just makes it better your pfp is a tree
2:02 - Static discharge is a big deal if you live in a desert surrounded by carpets.
Mister "I added in, a brand new 1060"
You've gotta swab, your thermal blob
You ain't never had a gen, never had a gen
You ain't never had a gen, never had a gen
You ain't
NEVER
HAD A
GEN
LIKE
PCI-EEEEEEEEEEE
You ain't never had a gen like PCI-E
(Gen-3 hah!)
TPF00T lol
@@TPF00T gorillaz?
@@who3033 Bruh
Aladdin
empty your kitchen table and sit on it
Tips for your builds : Prepare for more money.
Aljory Rumbaoa why?
Javier Valdez In case you'd want to buy rubber fan screws, or an item that is compatible with the build (in case you screw up)
Seriously this.
Your taste will change, perhaps even the room or desk, stuff doesn't normally break but can and eventually software gets too heavy, or you get into some new facet of the PC world only to discover your motherboard or other part is going to be a bitch about it.
I'm pretty sure you can just endlessly throw money at a PC, especially considering anything pluged into it as part of the overall cost.
You don't build pc if you don't have money
Can't run out of money if you don't build a pc *roll_safe.png*
Don't you hate those "giant little scratches"
Long thin scratches*
my stupid h440 came with a deep scratch on the top pissed me off and its not due to shipping because the box was perfect when I got it
Daily Hacks the first Core P3 case I ordered had the same issue, box was fine, case scratched to hell. That was Amazon tho, never again
I went with ncix and good thing that was the only part for my pc I bought from them
Oxymoron
lol I usually build my computers naked to avoid static discharge
Lmao what
Good thing you aren’t a techtouber then
Any other discharge....?😎
Tao Tao I just grab things with my tongue so that my limbs don’t touch the parts
I usually build my computers on mars to avoid everything.
I got that exact same screw case with my Phanteks case, I've been using it for a while now, really useful!
Fred should be in more vids... except u killed him
ohh hey it's fred! (*throws fred*) FRED NOOOOO
caw where can i buy a Fred
"What you guys think? Let me see in the comments below"
-Fred in every 30 seconds
Some of the things I would mention in my experience are: Allow plenty of time for your build. I took a week off from work so I wouldn't have to stress about time. The first day off, I physically planned my build, staging my build space and components and getting my tools ready. The second day I built the PC. I did the POST and installed Windows, then worked on cable management. The third (and fourth) day I began downloading/installing my software and games. By the 5th day I was able to sit back and relax and enjoy my new PC.
Also, make sure to have internet access while you are doing your build. Whether it's another PC, laptop, or smartphone, make sure you have the ability to get online and troubleshoot in the forums if you have problems. Always have at least one USB flash drive handy. They can be lifesavers if you need to transfer software, drivers, or patches to your new PC. Remember to inspect each part and remove the plastic protection on things like your CPU cooler block, GPU backplate and fans, and your PSU. If you forget to remove the plastic, you could get a strange smell when your PC heats up or (worst case) you could start a fire. Last but not least: Take your time and don't be afraid to take things apart again if you run into trouble. Sometimes you'll forget to plug a cable in, or you'll plug it into the wrong place and you can't figure out why your PC is misbehaving. If you have no idea why your hardware is acting up, take it apart and inspect your connections. Take a break if you need to. Sometimes a fresh set of eyes will find that silly little mistake you made.
I doubt anyone eager to build their PC has the patience to wait and build for 5 days when it's a simple task that takes a few hours
I heard that's how God did it!
I literally had this video and another video by bitwit at the same time while building today. I would be lost without you guys. Thanks
True im going to do that aswell
Tip #16 Remember to RGB *ALL THE THINGS*
amen
I think rule #0 should be, once you buy it, it's obsolete. This makes buyer's remorse a lot easier when the newest CPU or nvme drive comes out a week later, at half the price. 😂
Lol absolutely correct bruv
WHY? My current build will wind up having all RGB turned OFF, except for the case! I am customizing separate RGB designs, not part of any of the system, to use in my case, and possibly outside of the case, such as on my printer. :-p I will use some other things people don't usually use. This build will definitely be, one of a kind! :-)
!!!YES!!! and put the case on your desk close to your display so it fucking glows like in Las Vegas while you play your favorite game, helps you focus :)
My tip would be about the cpu socket thingy that keeps the cpu in place: It requires a fuckton of force (not actually that much but it is much more than you would expect)
ImThatTardisGuy Yeah, contrary to what Dimitri would have you believe, lowering the CPU socket lever requires force and is genuinely terrifying.
I know I'm 6 months late but what Dimitri meant was _placing_ the CPU in the socket, not lowering the CPU socket lever which _does_ require more force than one might assume
My palms always get sweaty and beads of sweat on my forehead. That's the part that really elevates the "pucker-factor" to geometric proportions man :0
moms spagetthi
he meant the lever, you have to put force on the lever
Modular power supplies are also nice to have :)
@@jeanpg9007 yes
You'll never stop me from stuffing my unneeded cables under my shroud
I hope Fred is Ok.
Ok, this has caused a serious continuity error on the computex plot line.
Josecitox Better make a time travel/alternate dimension theory
el psy kangaroo
we have truly entered the darkest timeline.
Josecitox This story line is really just filler, but there might still be some relevent PC building - I mean world building.
Josecitox Flashpoint is a joke after this. What have we done?
Thanks Chris Patt
MAGNETIC SCREWDRIVERS ARE A NEED NOT A WANT!!!
I agree but when I was installing my mother board it took me 15 minutes! 10 of those searching for one screw hiding behind the tray so I had enough and stole my dad's magnetic screwdriver
Dmitry, is that GROOT!?
All these "computer building tipzz" videos need to start mentioning the LGA "crunch" when you install an LGA CPU. First time builders are more often than not terrified of it and think they broke their parts before they even started.
After 7 years, he didn't mention the most important point. BUDGET, or, how long you can tolerate waiting to finish the build to increase that budget, E.G., buying parts as you go! AND, researching to make sure none of those parts will be different or better, and affordable, _before_ you can finish the build! NEXT: After deciding what platform, for instance, AMD or Intel, the mainboard should be chosen, FIRST! THEN, use mainboard compatibility list, especially for RAM! Also, don't scrimp on case, power supply, and especially monitor! Then you can go buy a frigging magnetic screw driver. *LOL!*
Computex looks gr8, they even copied a whole Dimitri's setup!
My PC maintenance top tip: If you do happen to get scratches on your glass panels, all you need is some toothpaste and a microfiber cloth or other lint-free cloth. Put a bead of toothpaste on the scratch and buff it out with the cloth. Wipe the toothpaste off and then clean with Windex. Repeat as necessary.
It might take some time, several attempts and a fair bit of elbow grease, but you can improve or entirely remove scratches in glass. The minor abrasives in most toothpaste can smooth the scratch out and make it very difficult or impossible to see with the naked eye.
A belated tip for first-time builders: set more money aside than you think you'll need, and set a few cardboard boxes aside for potential returns. You'll make mistakes in your parts selection, guaranteed - even if you use PCPartPicker. All it takes is a spur-of-the-moment hardware shift or a case change, and clearance issues might arise. There's also plenty of instances where something like a low-profile cooling fan *might* successfully mount on your CPU socket, but with your unlocked processor requiring some under-volting for the fan to be able to keep up.
If you've just bought a beefy PSU and intend to try your hand at overclocking, this is not a mistake you want to make.
That ties into a second tip: the smaller your form factor, the more limited your capability - and the more complex the parts and cable management. For your first-time build, go absolutely ham with a full-tower or mid-tower chassis and an ATX board. Give yourself plenty of expandability, and learn to appreciate the breathing room these bigger cases offer. A full-size ATX case is the best possible environment in which to fuck up - preferrably with a white or colored case, for the sake of making loose screws easier to track down.
Lastly, don't feel too pressured to join the ITX or MITX bandwagons, especially if visual fidelity matters to you as a gamer. Full-fat cards are generally easier to get ahold of for longer periods, and you'll want all the clearance you can get to accomodate them. I've built a chunky ITX with a friend and I love it to bits, but lining up that RTX 2080 Super with the PCI-E slot in the darkness of the narrow space left at the bottom of the board took two pairs of hands, three lamps, two flashlights and an eraser tip to prod the slot's release mechanism. Absolute Hell, no holds barred.
You bought a return ticket to Canada just for a new video? 😱 i love you guys
Juan Fredic Carlos hahaha No wtf
Juan Fredic Carlos It's that kind of dedication that makes me love this channel.
no wtf it's obviously already pre-recorded before they went to computex dumbass
You failed hard in detecting that joke, didn't you?
Trexide > when you miss the joke
0:25 .... FRED!!!!!
I mean... The quality, man! Visually impressive video. And thank you for all the tips. Definitely will come handy in a year or two.
I'd love to get more of Dmitry's tip
Me too, I'd love to know more tips about benchmarking, overcl.. oh
Whole hell. Was just watching another video, then to this one. Audio quality difference is MASSIVE
Great tips Dimitri. REally like the tip on loading / updating / installing windows etc BEFORE you put the hardware in. I've built 5 to 8 rigs in my 8 years playing with computers but I never thought about that one. Thanks for the tip man, and keep up the great work with the videos !
Good video! I would recommend this as an intro to somebody who is new on PC building field.
Dmitry!! you make even the scratches on the acrylic look good!! XD
Hi, Dmitri!
What was that case you featured from 00:56 to 01:06?
It looks really good, thanks!
Good video.
Another tip about grounding is, have the PSU power cable plugged into the wall socket. Have the cable plugged into the PSU unit, BUT only have the PSU switch in the OFF position. This will ground the case and you'll be fine as you are touching the case.
Again good tips.
At 5:10 your AIO tubing connection at the top of the radiator is the highest point of the loop. This very thing has caused me headaches with my h100i. Air bubbles at that high point resulted in the pump starving. Sounded like a cat after a Metallica concert. I realize this is not an improper way to mount those coolers and many people do it successfully, but it's still something to keep in mind. Some loops just happen to have more air than others. In my case, the cooler was already out of warranty when I decided to reposition it. It didn't go well, but simply reverting to the original position solved the problem. Kind of. My pump is halfway to heaven. It does still sounds like crap when it starts up it quiets down after a few seconds. When it dies I'm getting a Dark Rock or something similar.
Another general tip: don't put plants on top of electronics if you live in a house with females. They will water it without remorse.
- Make sure to peel off the plastic sheet on the baseplate of your CPU cooler. I made that mistake. Twice.
- Make sure that the baseplate of your CPU cooler isn't in interference with your motherboard VRM capacitors. I had this issue with the CoolerMaster Seidon 120V, which features a rectangular-shaped baseplate.
Somehow I didn't manage to kill my i7-3770 in the process of doing those mistakes... Somehow.
Here's my tips.
1. Start your build around 8PM after a stressfull day at work. Even better - crack open a couple of cans of your favourite beer "to get in the flow".
2. Start reading the manual, then after 5 minutes throw it away cause if you have any trouble theres always help on the tinternet!
3. Never mind about that missing riser - you've screwed in enough already.
4. Static electricity, touch the case (only works if you have the power supply plugged in by the way!)
5,. Get interupted by Wife, Kids, Friends from outta town. You can always pick it up after 11PM no probs.
6. If it doent fit properly then use a bit of force as these cables and sockets are up to a bit of abuse. Give it a bit of welly!
7. If there isn't a spark of life when you first hit that power on button - dont worry you're doing it all wrong. Just pull it all apart and start again.
8. At 3AM resist the urge to sleep as thats when all the answers to your build issues "come to you"
9. Remember - building a PC is fun and a "great learning experience!".
The things I look in a case is,1. How am I going to cool the components that it is housing and is there room to install everything I would like to install in this case. (Using a AIO Liquid cooler radiator (120mm, 140mm, 240mm and so on and will the fans and radiator fit where you want to place it) or a CPU Air cooler(cooler height and RAM clearance should be taken account for which CPU air cooler you would like to use), expansions slots (GPU's and other components), how many fans you would like to use (I use 4 minimum (I count AIO coolers as an intake or exhaust depending how you set it up) but can go down to 2 fans (intake and exhaust)2. Cable management. (how you can route the cables and secure the cables so they will not come into contact with the fans, doesn't block air flow and look nice)3. Construction materials and sturdiness. (Metal, plastic, (Metal is more sturdy but vibrates more, plastic is less sturdy but vibrates less. a mixture of both that can be both sturdy and causes less vibration is best) sound dampening materials (ex. rubber feet for HDD's bays to sound absorption pads) and dust filters) (the more sturdy the case is, the less vibration and noise you will have. also rubber feet on the bottom of the case to keep it from sliding and transferring noise)4. Do you like the look of the case and are your willing to buy it for the asking price.For me if I don't check all 4 things, I look for a different a different case.5. (optional) If RGB is a big thing for you add this to your list but you can always add RGB in a case that doesn't have any RGB.On this list on requirements to look for, it is hard to find a case under $70 USD. Just remember if you really like the case you can use it for future builds when your old components are becoming obsolete and that will save you money for your next build.
Static Discharge, lol. The trickiest part for me when I assembled my PC in 2011 was mounting the CPU heatsink. Worrying about paste going onto the mobo.
I think the case must be connected to power outlet to provide grounding for static electricity to pass through.
Very nice video tips. But before I was about to build my own beast pc I watched a lot of tech and already did all of it perfectly. Didn't even check if it powers up outside first, just put it inside the case the Button press test and worked like butter. The only thing I didn't know was the 8 pin cpu connector which did give me a bit of work :) but my cable management is really good anyway
i was working with a corsair 400c (case without much headroom at the top) and with a massive NH-d15 cooler. It was one hell of a gymnastic and perseverance exercise to get my 8-pin cpu power plugged in. It required me to bend my hand and fingers in ways i never thought imaginable :o
Thank you for this, I’m thinking of building a computer for a long time and I needed research. This has amazing visuals and had allowed me to feel better educated before I buy a bunch of expensive parts and breaking them because I have lack in knowledge. I have a few questions about using a thing that looks like a USB stick to install windows 10, I’ve seen people use those and it works out well for them, I wanted to know if it’s a good idea?
Yea usually installing windows with a usb is your only option. And have you built your pc yet?
This is not scary at all!!! Building my machine tomorrow and I'm so anxious and excited at the same time. GAH!
How. Did it go
arsenalacid i think he died from shock
I built my own PC. At first I was bewildered, now I am considering more options... cable management and perhaps cooling , although I spent a lot already, but wisely. Cool videos
I was like... The plant! NOOOO!!!
Thanks for the rubber fan screws tip! I didn't know they existed.I was having issues with my Define R5 buzzing due to fan vibration. I bought some rubber fan screws for a few bucks off amazon and the buzzing is gone.
One of my regret is that I miss this handy channel
And I'm thank for this video,
Now i only have to wait for Christmas Sale
I am curently building a gaming PC myself, is there any safety percautions I should know to avoid an electrical fire?
We need more tempered glass MATX mid towers on the market.
This is a great video actually. A lot of obvious but still very helpful tips.
For Holding screws I've picked up a guitarpick holder from eBay for like a Buck. It has about 8 sections to hold your screws. Awesome
Bitwit did an experiment a while back comparing vertical to horizontal CPU cooler placement. Test results showed vertical placement resulted in higher CPU temps. At the time he didn't know why, but after watching a JayzTwoCents flir video I think I figured it out. The backplate on a GPU puts out a lot of heat and facing your CPU cooler fan towards that backplate will result in higher temperature air being fed through the CPU cooler.
Keep in mind, graphics cards give off a lot of heat. While heat rises, it is usually better to have your CPU heatsink taking in cooler air from the front of the case (in most configurations).
Thanks for the tips dimitri, I look foward to building my first pc at Christmas
"And it's totally okay to use a non-modular power supply!"
HERESY!
I'm just kidding, great video once again Dmitri, really helps the noobs like me.
I used to "plug in" front panel pins (like power button, reset button, HDD LED, power LED) before putting the motherboard inside, because I'm one of those that finding a hard time plug it in (USB/audio headers are still a lot easier tho)
For me most important is to have space on my desk for all things. Small spaces are bad for any PC instalations.
From experience... If you have a modular PSU ; setup what connectors you need and for non modular ones; use zip ties to clean which cable you don't need. Also PSU goes in 1st and then mobo... trust me it saves a lot of time for a beginner
Make sure the case your getting supports the sizes of your parts too. Not all cases are made equally for compatibility
Some air coolers are big and tall. May help to check dimensions in the case before buying
+1 thanks for this clear and quality video
Can you give some tips on those damn IO SHIELDS!! I NEVER figured them out. those pins and the mobo just dont go together in a perfect way.. :(
BanterEdits same
Lower the mobo into the case in an angled fashion, so first you will align the IO ports with the shield, then, when it is more or less aligned - lower the rest of the motherboard and at the same time push it towards that shield so you can align it with the support for motherboard screws.
I have no idea how you could possibly do an io shield incorrectly. I just don't get it
get a core p3 like I did and just throw that shield away 😂
I had the same issue on my first build with a somewhat cheap motherboard. Just a simple stamped sheet metal io shield and all these little tabs sticking out around where the ports should be. i just cut them all off with a dremel, but im sure simply bending them and test fitting the plate against the ports outside of the case will help with some headaches C:
Thanks for the tips Chris Pratt!! Very cool
My first PC build was a Intel 486 33Mhz computer, feel like that was over 100 years ago. So much has happened with technology it is crazy.
Some good info thank you.
Buy artic p12 120mm fans for intake. Make system restore points incase a driver goes bad etc. Never force any part while building! Always check on what type of screw you will need on the motherboard stands(there isn't 1 standart you can jam it lol). Always buy the better power supply. For a millisecond your cpu can draw 100 Watts and for a millisecond your gpu can draw 300 Watts power. Motherboard draws 50 watts+30 for fans ssd hdd lights. It you use 450 Watts psu, rip.
Cheap psu's don't deliver advertised power. Always buy higher wattage and better psu while not breaking the bank
Some cheap psu's will have too thin cables that will catch fire under heavy load..
You can buy old server power supplies they are top notch quality!
Never ever do auto overclock on motherboard
They usually give very high voltage starting at 1.4v even 1.5v(kills instantly)
Don't look at benchmarks too much for cpu's. They use superior rams you won't buy most probably! Also if you buy Intel H and B series motherboards your ram will be limited in speed thus you're performance will be whole lot of different different than benchmarks.
Benchmaarks usually overlooks strutters
I had 9400f with z370 and 3000mhz cl15 ram. It had strutters in far cry 5. I sold it and bought 9600kf. It didn't have that issue....
9600 and 9400 are 2 different worlds... Different stepping, soldered ihs vs thermal paste.
İ5 kf is a good option imho even at 10th gen. But mostly R3 3300x is enough as it looks. B450 costs 70.$ and it supports 4xxx series.... So there is room for upgrade while Z490m costs 150 usd. And god knows 12th gen won't be supported on Z490. Not enough room for upgrade lol.
R3 3300x 120 usd then you can jump to r5 4600 for 220 usd. It will be a reasonable jump. But I don't suggest cpu ungrades that quick tho....
Always check reviews before buying motherboard and gpu. Same graphics card will be different in thermal performance in other brands! Some will have better power delivery etc. Some will have better memory and pcb..
Also some mobo will be daisy chain some dual topology. Some better pcb etc higher ram kits is based on mobo quality and then cpu uncore.
Don't buy cheap but veery rgb cases.most cheap cases with glass front panel has a very narrow opening for air flow. They usually choke. Your gpu will be running hot and louder. Which degrades the silicon faster
Don't underestimate artic p12 120mm. They dropped my gpu temps 80 to 75 at 155 Watts load 3200rpm to 2400 rpm respectively. At 120 Watts from 77 degrees 2700 rpm to 69 degrees 1800 rpm. Huge imho.
My son and I built his system outside of the case, and then wasted 2 hours because we didn't know how to turn the system on correctly (you can't just turn on the power supply) Some nice guy on one of the LTT forums finally told us we had to use a paperclip to short out two pins on the motherboard. I have watched many many build videos and not one of them has ever mentioned how to start the test system. Including your video.
awesome thanks Kevin
screwdriver works to
OngoingTech some do... but some (including the one we bought) don't.
if you think about it... what the case power switch does is exactly shorting the two power switch pins when you press it. you can always plug it to the motherboard outside the case if you feel better, or salvage a switch from an old case (they're all the same). surely I won't pay 20 more for a motherboard just for the switch
Bill Anderson hahahahaha omg I can die now
Tip: If you dont have a magnetic screw driver and have a spare magnet lying around.. Rub the magnet on screwdriver in one direction and it will make it magnetic ;)
For my screws, I took my grandmother's pill divider and put my screws in there. Is that wrong?
have i seen too many ads or are these coolormaster keyboards finally lookin good
Thank wise man, very helpful, as I am about to build a new gaming and workstation rig!
Is it a good idea to use the stock cooler for the Ryzen 5 3600, if you don’t plan to over clock. I also bought the Gigabyte RTX 2070 SUPER 8 WINDFORCE OC 3X which has three fans to go with it. And the case will have 4 total fans.
yes its totaly okey to use 3600 stock cooler, its pretty good actually
Finally!
Dimitry!
I have missed you so much!
Need good tips from good ol guy
Because I find magnetic screwdrivers horridly aggravating when not in use (Collecting metal shavings to prick your fingers in the screwdriver drawer, etc) I find it easier to simply magnetize whichever size I gotta use when I gotta use it. If ya don't have a magnet, just take one from dead HDD. Works perfectly for holding on to screws when you want it, and wont' attract every little metal thing in your drawer for the rest of time.
Confused which case too get for my first pc build
1)Corsair spec 04
2)Cooler master masterbox 5 lite rgb
3)phanteks p300
4)Nzxt s340 elite
Case should have good airflow
What’s Up
Oh crazy, I went with the corsair spec 04
Great cable management tips!
What's the case at 2:43? Looks great
any tips for top mounted psu case with a non modular psu? cable management is a pain the the arse
I don't have any ESD kit. Do I have to touch the metal case continuously or just a few seconds before handling the components?
Man, I kinda feel like an idjut. I knew that DIMMS had a preferred install order when only using two sticks, but never made the connection that you used the non-black ones.
I've figured most of these things out by trial and error. The first one I learned the hard way was my first build. I put the PC inside the case, it didn't fire up. I hadn't seated the 24 pin power all the way in, but I hadn't spotted that before pulling everything out of the case. I build everything outside the case now before installing!
Those SATA power cables annoy me thanks to most configurations when you daisy chain them you have to bend them to the side to get the back case door.
Cool tips for those learning how to build, Dmitri.
HOW GREAT THOU ART!! Absolutely great help for we fumblers. Thanks
You can buy that screw driver in pound land in the uk with loads of connectors also magnetic
Which case did you use while demonstrating the cable routing part?
It took me 6 hours to build my first pc last summer but if I were to rebuild it it would probably take me like 10 minutes
Very Important Things to Build a PC!
I understand read english, but sadly I don´t speak it. I´m use automatic generated subs to read what saying Dimitry and his partner. But I love it.
In this video I had to put 0.75x speed because Dimitry talks to fast and I want to learn all tips and write in my notepad. But it's really worth it ;)
I hope you can understand this comment ;)
What case is that? Looks lit.
A tip. You can make almost all screwdrivers magnetic.
@@est495 with flatheads you can just rub them against a magnet, and if you have some very small magnets you can do the same withg the groves in a philips.
I have a plastic scree driver.. It don't get magnetic ); 😝
@@bigmac9712 Ye lol. just get a metal one
Could you apply a ceramic coat (like for cars) to a clear side panel so it doesn't scratch/smudge as easily or am I crazy?
What would you recommend for PC exhaust fans? Was thinking of the noctua chromax airflow?
What about surge protectors? Does everybody use one or no?
Make sure to pull the tabs up on the shield before mounting the motherboard, and definitely check after installation that the metal tabs are not in front of the USB plugs or ethernet otherwise they could cause a short and fry your motherboard.
To add to the static discharge thing: if you can, build your PC while on the floor rather than carpet. Just as a precaution.
Use the provided mobo mounting screws that come with the case ;) Tried to use my spare parts screws -> no go :( Also, on modular PSU, install the cables into the PSU BEFORE mounting ;)
God I feel old watching these kind of videos I started building PC in the late 90’s when I was a kid
also removing plastic cover for cpu cooler is pain in the a$$ , great video as always guys :)
@HardwareCanucks ... Good video! Although, you missed the most important point... PERIOD _... before you even buy!_ Once you finally choose your mainboard, *check your mainboard compatibility list!* For instance, I am doing a new build. Out of the 4 different sets of DDR4 I chose as potential parts, _none of them were on the list!_ It took me a long time, but I finally found a set of 2400x3200x3200 DDR4 2x16 that I like, in all aspects, including timing and visuals, and all slots being occupied. But yes, visualize your build, from start to finish, and take notes, till you're blue in the face! :-) Many people have to live with their build for years.
BTW, an important video you could do is on RAM, versus occupying two or four slots, etc. RAM seems to cause more imagined or real problems for people than anything else. NOTE: To whoever, for the vast majority of people/builds, you don't need more than 2x8 of RAM. 2x8 is more than enough!
IMPORTANT NOTE: A person can also research mainboard BIOS to see how it prioritizes 'one or two sided' RAM, if at all. (BTW, that's not really the correct way to describe RAM.) For instance, the newest BIOS for my aforementioned build states: "2. This BIOS fixes the following problem of the previous version: Optimized for the newest single-sided 16GB and double-sided 32GB memory (2Gx8 memory chip)" It's just something people can look into.
One more little tip, which is not as important now, not using mechanical HDD's. Set your OS 'page file' as static, about twice what your system recommends, in 1024 increments. But, even on SSD's, it's good to keep your 'page file' from fluctuating in size.
Don't scrimp on case or power supply, and especially the monitor. The monitor will be the visual result of everything your build consists of, in total. Know you are going to be happy when in front of it! If your budget is small, use 1080 as the base line, _not_ 1440, for everything. For instance, a 1660 Super graphics card, (or 1660 Ti ). Yes, _I_ prefer Nvidia. If you are limited, then AMD, of course. FYI, AMD FreeSync, used with Nvidia, is not true G-Sync.
Hot air raises.
A 2000rpm fan moves are goddanm well too
hey man.. i really love your channel..
Have you've watched 'Guardians of the galaxy' coz you are just like the 'Star Lord' on TH-cam!
Kushagra Mehrotra dimitri=Chris pratt
Kushagra Mehrotra Ik it’s a year late but when I first saw him I was like Is that...???
And he even has a plant friend!
@@tubeofpringles3120 lmao
Hey, if I want to upgrade my pc with new RAM’s and a new graphic card, can I use my old and both new RAM’s together if they all fit? And the same with graphic card, so I can use two graphic cards. Cause that would be pretty awesome to re use them and make my pc a bit more powerful...
What's the screwdriver you're using?