I made timestamps below to help you navigate the video 👇. I hope it helps! Supplies for meter base installation 00:15 How to remove a knockout 02:17 How to install 2” SEU clamp on meter base 02:52 How to position and level meter base 03:29 How to drill through the wall 04:08 Why I did not need a disconnect 04:28 How to install an expansion coupling 05:05 How to secure the SEU cable to the meter base 06:18 How to secure the meter base to the house 06:36 Meter base height requirement 07:42 How to wire SEU cable to a meter base 08:09 How to anchor electrical conduit to the house 11:02 How to seal the hole for the SEU cable 12:42
When you are mounting the meter socket, you mention the J Block. Do you have a source for this item? I like the look it give the installation. Thank you.
I actually viewed another meter base installation after watching yours and so much was not shared during this video like it always is with yours. Your videos are, again, the best to view never eliminating any steps in the process and very clear and thorough. Please keep producing your videos. Thank you!!!
Thanks in part to the help from your channel (and a very helpful local electrician’s guidance) I installed my own meter socket, riser, weatherhead, and panel on my detached garage, and power company connected me today. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
It's not hating. It's NEC code. Just like he didn't ground his meter base with number 6 bare copper wire. He had the ground rod clamp on the table with all the material.
I try to put as much information in my videos as possible. I appreciate your support. I am thankful to be able to share my knowledge with you. Thanks for watching!
My son's and I built our house and we done our wiring.my dad was a carpenter also and I helped him a lot. I always liked carpenter work. Have a wonderful rest of the day and thanks for sharing
You are welcome! It is always nice to stumble across the TH-cam video that meets your needs. Good luck with your project and thanks for being professional. Take care!
I know you have to say your disclaimer, but I've worked with several licensed electricians who forgot the plastic bushing you so easily remembered. Good work!
I’m building my own house , I think your videos are great , thank you for making them , I’m building a 1200 s f retirement and am able to save roughly 150 thousand . Imagine that, thanks again
This guy goes... Hi my name is Josh, i am not a professional, and i am not a electrician, I am just a regular person building my own house... I 'd love to hang out with this guy. He is humble and motivating. 6 months later, I can see this guy saying, "Hi my name is josh, I am not a rocket scientist, I just decided to build my own rocketship, and i got lucky that it turned out better than Elon Musks current rocketships. hahah... Thanks for your video bro.. I learned exactly what i needed . Keep up the good work..
Couple things that may be an issue: 1. If your jurisdiction has adopted the NEC 2020 code requirements then an outside disconnecting means for emergency personell is required (NEC 230.85) 2. If you are not using the largest size of the concentric Knock-out then a ground bushing will be required with that metallic SE connector 3. There should have been a ufer ground installed to the rebar in the footer when they were poured.
Thanks for the info! I’ll let you know if I have any problems with inspection. We’ve been wiring these houses all the same and no issues so far. Thanks for watching!
Besides the fact that you said you were not an electrician, the only way I knew was because you used an actual hammer instead of lineman's... great video, definitely subscribing.
@@e_street7754 I had grounded my circuit panel but the inspector said the meter based also had to be grounded. Not sure if I could of only grounded the meter or not. Thanks
@@e_street7754 Did I not say that the inspector had me ground the meter base? Maybe I am dense, But I thought I differentiated between two. Anyway two months ago I did my install exactly like the video and when the inspector came to inspect he had me add a ground to the meter base to meet code. He also recommended that I leave the ground on the circuit panel.
Your not dense. I didn't pay it any attention. But yes. Your meter base and your circuit panel (breaker box) does have to be grounded to a ground rod. Now if you have an sub panel. It doesn't have to be grounded to a rod. Your sub panel will be grounded from your wires you pull to it.
Code requires the lugs be torqued to the manufacturer's specs with a calibrated torque wrench. Improper torque is a leading cause of failure. It is critical with aluminum conductors. And a torque wrench is fairly cheap.
Loving the videos, stumbled upon your channel while trying to do my own soffits. You break things down so that I can understand the process, subscribed! Keep up the good work. I also like your hat, can you tell me, is the color gray or brown?
I’m glad you found my channel too. I try to craft my videos as if I was showing it to a beginner. I thanks a lot for subscribing! The hat is brown. It can be found in my Amazon store (link in the description). Stay tuned!
Commercial electrician here, never seen an expansion coupling before. Seems like a good idea, but if something happened, wouldn’t the wire snatch the meter off the house?
Nice video. You were saying in the end you went going to drive the grounding rods and run the grounding wire to the panel box. My question to you is does the meter box needs to be grounded? Looking forward to your response.
wow Josh! these vids are running circles around other channels. Can tell you are loving it ... hope your weekend was fantastic. Also now at 30.3k subs Monday 10:42am central time September 21, 2021
Hey Thor! It’s weird how some videos take off and some just kind of lay low for a while and then pick up steam. TH-cam is a weird animal! Love the timestamp man!
Thank you for making this video very interesting and useful! One question regarding what seems a white cardboard where you attached the meter base. did you put it there because it required or just to have a flat surface to place the meter base?
Is it important to seal the 3in hole cut out where the wires pass through the wall? Sealing the lags makes sense but I’ve never seen the 3in hole be sealed by anyone but it seems like it should be?
Where I live for meter bases ran through the roof you need it 12 foot from the ground, running 3 foot above the roof and 2in+ galvanized piping. Also not sure what method you use but a hole, bucket, and water will get both of those ground rods in within 20-30 minutes.
Hopefully someone can chime in on this, as I'd like to upgrade my service as well (and save a ton of money). Doesn't the 2020 NFPA 70 (electrical code) require emergency disconnects between the meter and panel now, regardless if it's just in the other side of the wall? The meters with disconnects are considerably larger and more expensive. If anyone can provide a video or reference on whether or not this is mandatory, and what the exceptions are, I would be very grateful.
I believe you are supposed to set the expansion coupling separated on the internal line. That way if you get expansion or contraction you are covered. I dont think you are to install that all the one to one of the rails like shown in the video.
Hey Josh, new Sub here, Thanks for the detailed video. 1 question, I am running cable to a 30 amp rv pedestal and then to a 100 amp panel for a tiny house. What size cable should I use for a 225 foot run? Thanks
Dear, Excellent Laborer, I have two (2) questions: # 1: Why are you using steel ground rods instead of copper ones? # 2: Why not use a Leviton load center? That would be nice! Please respond!
copper is a soft metal and corrodes over time with water exposure. He's using a galvanized rod that has a zinc plating over the rod which allows it to last a lot longer in wet conditions. The steel is also tougher making it easier to press into the ground. Copper would bend if it hit something heavy under ground.
@@MuhammadAli-ev5jc Thanks for the response, whoever you are. But I thought that using copper rods is standard procedure, that almost all electricians and lineman use. Doesn't it have the best conductivity for grounding and that's it's purpose?
@@travisferguson1721 you are correct that it is the best for conductivity for the price (the most conductive is actually silver but copper is just as conductive for 99 percent of applications). That is why the grounding wire INSIDE THE HOUSE is made from copper. Where it wont be so easily affected by Water and PH conditions.
@@travisferguson1721 2017 National Electrical Code 250.52(A)(5)(b) pg. 120 states that the rod-type grounding electrodes can be stainless steel and copper or zinc-coated steel. The standard ground rod that we electricians use is a copper-coated steel ground rod. Muhammad is correct; if the rod was pure copper, we would bend it during installation. You were right in your observation about using copper; you were not aware of its construction. The ground rod also needs to be 5/8ths in diameter and 8 feet in length driven into the ground, and a secondary ground rod needs to be placed six feet away from that one to avoid doing an ohm measurement.
Thanks and great video! An electrician just mounted mine today but at first I thought he didn't leave enough 4/0 wire. He didn't use that SEU 4/0 cable you used just straight up 4/0...now Im going to go see how he clamped it. Anyway - whats that white mounting plate/panel on your house? I have new construction garage and the cement board isn't installed yet and the guy just lagged it straight to the OSB (and he didnt use those water tight screws like you used either). I really like how you lay out all the supplies and give basic definition. Thanks again!
Great video.. Could you give all the conduit sizes of all the attachments coming out of the meter box, including your 45 angle conduit into the ground?? Thanks…
After you install the ground rods (6ft apart) you install the ground wire to the rods and go through the wall of the house to the panel box and connect the wire to the ground bar or to the meter ground?
Hey I love your channel. I just subscribed. I watched most your electrical videos but I have a question I installed a meter base and main break panel side by side. Do I connect both the meter base and panel to ground rods or is on the main break panel enough? The code was kind of ambiguous. Using #4 copper ground wire. Thanks 🙏
would have liked to see how you bend the SEU inside the house to the panel without taking off sheath. Maybe that's another vid? I'm researching how to bend SER 4/0 (4-4-4-2) from main outside to inside 2x6 wall up to attic and then across (easy part).
I have a brick house with rotten wood now behind my meter , what’s the best replacement for that wood? The wood is like 2’x2’ in the brick wall not on surface.
Hey Josh please pardon my ignorance, But I have a question I have one of their boxes from Cutler-Hammer much larger than yours it looks like it's got a breaker panel on the bottom of it, however from The electric I was wanting to know if I could remove that and get in to the box? I want run lights to my carport and a couple of outlets, I already have everything I need except for five more sticks of conduit two more plugs and boxes and the weatherproof covers for them and I plan on using 10 gauge wire So do you have any advice?
Thanks for the video josh! I have one question though.. I'm currently adding vinyl siding to the house and my house has the meter and everything already set so I won't be able to install a j block. Do I just J channel around everything??
HELP! I'm replacing an old Federal Pacific 100-amp panel with a 200-amp Square D Hameline panel, so I will need to upgrade the service entrance cable and want to use 2/0 THHN copper. The outdoor meter can/box is mounted low, (30" off the ground at bottom edge of can) outside, so if I use the bottom rear 2-inch knockout of the meter can, it will put the hole through the wall below the bottom edge of the new breaker panel by about 8 inches, so I will have to make a vertical 90 upwards turn from hole in wall to bottom knockout of the new panel. I cannot find a 2" close 90 PVC electrical fitting so I'm guessing they don't make one. My question is: how do I make that vertical 90 turn upwards? It will eventually be covered in drywall. Do I need to have the inside copper leads in conduit at all? If I use switch to 4/0 aluminum, do I need conduit inside the wall cavity? thanks in advance!
Excellent Laborer, did you know that it would be easier for you to install the ground rods with a hammer drill? I'm sure you must have heard of that. The hammer drill will lesson your work load and make it easier for you. I noticed you did not connect the ground wire to the meter base and I'm wondering why you didn't connect to the meter base.
I wired up a detached, managed to get it inspected. I ran direct burial cable. How far into the ground was your conduit? Did you run it away from the house a certain distance to accommodate utility?
Hi, Can I ask a question? Our meter based was installed right near our window. There is no space between the window and the box, exactly near the window. Is this be allowed or not? And is there any requirement how far it should be away the window or the door? Thank you very much.
In a overhead weather head type installation the drip loop can't be within 36" of a window..basically so someone can't lean out window and swing from drip loop like Tarzan frying themselves..meter base itself has no distance from window requirements
if you live in a country whos power standard is 220-240V like europe and asia, can you still use the american version of eletrical distribution panel ?, I ask this because i know the power thst comes into the houses here in the USA is 220V and it is stepped down to 110V at the D.box.
I look inside my main panel and I don't see the 6 ga or 4 ga bare ground wire (that comes from the outside actual "earthen" ground rod) to connect anywhere inside the main panel that I can see. However, if I follow the buried ground line from the ground rod, it seems to come up through conduit to the outside meter panel and enters there. So the questions......1.) is this a local code difference where the ground line gets connected to some part of the meter panel?....and 2.) how do we continue the ground path from the meter panel to the main panel? I checked ground continuity from the main panel and it's grounded, so I know I have a connection somewhere....just don't know where.... and how "Stout" ( ampacity) it is. Can you or others here help?
i am trying to get this done and the electrician was asking 6k$ to do it. How many hours is it to install a meter box with a weatherhead and hook it up directly to a fuse panel ? he was refusing to tell me how many hours this job is and his hourly rate.
Oh man I would not know where to begin with a historic restoration. The wiring in some of those old houses(if any) has to be crazy compared to now. Let me know what you think after you get your video! Thanks Randy!
![[Live] : ONE 168 วันนี้!! "โจนาธาน vs ซุปเปอร์เล็ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jIN65KgJsI/mqdefault.jpg)
I made timestamps below to help you navigate the video 👇. I hope it helps!
Supplies for meter base installation 00:15
How to remove a knockout 02:17
How to install 2” SEU clamp on meter base 02:52
How to position and level meter base 03:29
How to drill through the wall 04:08
Why I did not need a disconnect 04:28
How to install an expansion coupling 05:05
How to secure the SEU cable to the meter base 06:18
How to secure the meter base to the house 06:36
Meter base height requirement 07:42
How to wire SEU cable to a meter base 08:09
How to anchor electrical conduit to the house 11:02
How to seal the hole for the SEU cable 12:42
When you are mounting the meter socket, you mention the J Block. Do you have a source for this item? I like the look it give the installation. Thank you.
I actually viewed another meter base installation after watching yours and so much was not shared during this video like it always is with yours. Your videos are, again, the best to view never eliminating any steps in the process and very clear and thorough. Please keep producing your videos. Thank you!!!
Thanks in part to the help from your channel (and a very helpful local electrician’s guidance) I installed my own meter socket, riser, weatherhead, and panel on my detached garage, and power company connected me today. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
It amazes me that everyone's a critic man keep doing what you're doing remember man hater's gonna hate your videos rock
It's not hating. It's NEC code. Just like he didn't ground his meter base with number 6 bare copper wire. He had the ground rod clamp on the table with all the material.
Absolutely one of the best videos I have ever seen. Very clear and thorough. I will share you with everyone. Thank you!!!
I try to put as much information in my videos as possible. I appreciate your support. I am thankful to be able to share my knowledge with you. Thanks for watching!
My son's and I built our house and we done our wiring.my dad was a carpenter also and I helped him a lot. I always liked carpenter work. Have a wonderful rest of the day and thanks for sharing
That’s great to hear John! You cannot replace a father son relationship. Sounds like we had a similar upbringing. Thanks a lot for watching!
Thank you JOSH💛💛 I’m an oncologist , but you, Sir are a whole life saver🤜🏾🤛🏾
You are welcome! It is always nice to stumble across the TH-cam video that meets your needs. Good luck with your project and thanks for being professional. Take care!
I know you have to say your disclaimer, but I've worked with several licensed electricians who forgot the plastic bushing you so easily remembered. Good work!
I try to keep all of my work as good as it can get. Thanks a lot for this comment. Good luck with your project!
My electrician bailed on me so I have hit the Jack Pot with your video... Subscribed.
I'm glad you found value in my content. Thanks for watching!
Nice , concise, and meticulous installation from ground up! Keep it up and spread the knowledge brother.
Thank you for the comment!
I’m building my own house , I think your videos are great , thank you for making them , I’m building a 1200 s f retirement and am able to save roughly 150 thousand . Imagine that, thanks again
Great video! Straight and to the point. I've saved this to a favorite for future reference. Thanks!
Well gosh dayum... the number of houses you've done this on just keep going up and up... amazing videos... thanks a bunch man!!!
Thanks for this video!
No problem Yak. Good to see you here!!
This guy goes... Hi my name is Josh, i am not a professional, and i am not a electrician, I am just a regular person building my own house... I 'd love to hang out with this guy. He is humble and motivating. 6 months later, I can see this guy saying, "Hi my name is josh, I am not a rocket scientist, I just decided to build my own rocketship, and i got lucky that it turned out better than Elon Musks current rocketships. hahah... Thanks for your video bro.. I learned exactly what i needed . Keep up the good work..
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
It's always enjoyable to watch your videos.
Another great video, thank you Josh!
Awesome video! Thank you for making it look easy
I’m glad I can help. Thanks for watching!
Couple things that may be an issue:
1. If your jurisdiction has adopted the NEC 2020 code requirements then an outside disconnecting means for emergency personell is required (NEC 230.85)
2. If you are not using the largest size of the concentric Knock-out then a ground bushing will be required with that metallic SE connector
3. There should have been a ufer ground installed to the rebar in the footer when they were poured.
Thanks for the info! I’ll let you know if I have any problems with inspection. We’ve been wiring these houses all the same and no issues so far. Thanks for watching!
you did forget the bushing on the 3 in connector. required by code if wire is #4 or larger.
@@TheExcellentLaborer
What a great job! Nice work. I am doing this for the third time tomorrow and like your tips.
Be sure to ground your meter base to a ground rod. He didn't do that. And that is per NEC code.
Excellent as always Josh.
Thanks a lot Super Sonic!
Besides the fact that you said you were not an electrician, the only way I knew was because you used an actual hammer instead of lineman's... great video, definitely subscribing.
He also didn't ground his meter base to the ground rod.
Put my meter box in yesterday thanks to your great video
I hope you grounded your meter base to a ground rod. He failed on that and will fail his inspection as you will to if you didn't do it. Per NEC codes
@@e_street7754 I had grounded my circuit panel but the inspector said the meter based also had to be grounded. Not sure if I could of only grounded the meter or not. Thanks
@@newgardener I'm talking about your meter base. Not your circuit panel. They are 2 different things.
@@e_street7754 Did I not say that the inspector had me ground the meter base? Maybe I am dense, But I thought I differentiated between two.
Anyway two months ago I did my install exactly like the video and when the inspector came to inspect he had me add a ground to the meter base to meet code. He also recommended that I leave the ground on the circuit panel.
Your not dense. I didn't pay it any attention. But yes. Your meter base and your circuit panel (breaker box) does have to be grounded to a ground rod. Now if you have an sub panel. It doesn't have to be grounded to a rod. Your sub panel will be grounded from your wires you pull to it.
You did an amazing job! 10 out of 10
Thanks for the great rating! Be sure to stay tuned!
He will fail his inspection for not grounding the meter base to a ground rod. Per NEC. 6 out of 10.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated!!
I love helping others Vince. Take care!
Nice job! Good, simple instruction. Remember to torque them lugs with a calibrated, torque wrench! 😊
And ground his meter base to a ground rod. That he didn't do. Per NEC.
Code requires the lugs be torqued to the manufacturer's specs with a calibrated torque wrench. Improper torque is a leading cause of failure. It is critical with aluminum conductors. And a torque wrench is fairly cheap.
NEC code requires the meter base to be grounded to a ground rod. He didn't do it.
Super well explained - thanks!
Thanks Tom!
Loving the videos, stumbled upon your channel while trying to do my own soffits. You break things down so that I can understand the process, subscribed! Keep up the good work. I also like your hat, can you tell me, is the color gray or brown?
I’m glad you found my channel too. I try to craft my videos as if I was showing it to a beginner. I thanks a lot for subscribing! The hat is brown. It can be found in my Amazon store (link in the description). Stay tuned!
you shouldve expanded that expansion coupling
Awesomeness! Great video Josh keep them coming back lol 😊
Commercial electrician here, never seen an expansion coupling before. Seems like a good idea, but if something happened, wouldn’t the wire snatch the meter off the house?
I was wondering the same.
I’m installing a 320 Amp meter base. Is the a good reference youtube site for that? I can’t seem to find one. Thanks & your channel is great.
Nice video. You were saying in the end you went going to drive the grounding rods and run the grounding wire to the panel box. My question to you is does the meter box needs to be grounded? Looking forward to your response.
wow Josh! these vids are running circles around other channels. Can tell you are loving it ... hope your weekend was fantastic. Also now at 30.3k subs Monday 10:42am central time September 21, 2021
Hey Thor! It’s weird how some videos take off and some just kind of lay low for a while and then pick up steam. TH-cam is a weird animal! Love the timestamp man!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I'll keep doing it ... it will be great to see in the future. Have a super day Josh!!!
You too Thor!!
Thank you for making this video very interesting and useful! One question regarding what seems a white cardboard where you attached the meter base. did you put it there because it required or just to have a flat surface to place the meter base?
Is it important to seal the 3in hole cut out where the wires pass through the wall? Sealing the lags makes sense but I’ve never seen the 3in hole be sealed by anyone but it seems like it should be?
Excellent instruction!
Thank you J M!
Milbank is the most recommended, thought I’d throw that out there.
Do u know how to do full load amp cals for the service? Do you know how many volt amps per square ft u times by?
Saludos bendiciones Josh exelente video muchos calurosos abrazos a la familia
Thanks a lot Jonathan! I hope everything is going good for you. Thanks a lot for watching!
Are those ground rods aluminum?
If so, you will have Galvanic Corrosion due to dissimilar metals.
Good job, bro . Nice explanation, excellent 5 star *****
Glad you liked it!
He didn't ground the meter base to a ground rod. Per NEC.
Where I live for meter bases ran through the roof you need it 12 foot from the ground, running 3 foot above the roof and 2in+ galvanized piping. Also not sure what method you use but a hole, bucket, and water will get both of those ground rods in within 20-30 minutes.
Using a motion most people are familiar with, too LOL
You say you are not electrician but I can see you are more than a journeyman electrician knowledge have
Hopefully someone can chime in on this, as I'd like to upgrade my service as well (and save a ton of money). Doesn't the 2020 NFPA 70 (electrical code) require emergency disconnects between the meter and panel now, regardless if it's just in the other side of the wall? The meters with disconnects are considerably larger and more expensive. If anyone can provide a video or reference on whether or not this is mandatory, and what the exceptions are, I would be very grateful.
I believe you are supposed to set the expansion coupling separated on the internal line. That way if you get expansion or contraction you are covered. I dont think you are to install that all the one to one of the rails like shown in the video.
Hey Josh, new Sub here, Thanks for the detailed video. 1 question, I am running cable to a 30 amp rv pedestal and then to a 100 amp panel for a tiny house. What size cable should I use for a 225 foot run? Thanks
Dear, Excellent Laborer, I have two (2) questions:
# 1: Why are you using steel ground rods instead of copper ones?
# 2: Why not use a Leviton load center? That would be nice!
Please respond!
copper is a soft metal and corrodes over time with water exposure. He's using a galvanized rod that has a zinc plating over the rod which allows it to last a lot longer in wet conditions. The steel is also tougher making it easier to press into the ground. Copper would bend if it hit something heavy under ground.
@@MuhammadAli-ev5jc Thanks for the response, whoever you are. But I thought that using copper rods is standard procedure, that almost all electricians and lineman use. Doesn't it have the best conductivity for grounding and that's it's purpose?
@@travisferguson1721 you are correct that it is the best for conductivity for the price (the most conductive is actually silver but copper is just as conductive for 99 percent of applications). That is why the grounding wire INSIDE THE HOUSE is made from copper. Where it wont be so easily affected by Water and PH conditions.
@@travisferguson1721 2017 National Electrical Code 250.52(A)(5)(b) pg. 120 states that the rod-type grounding electrodes can be stainless steel and copper or zinc-coated steel.
The standard ground rod that we electricians use is a copper-coated steel ground rod. Muhammad is correct; if the rod was pure copper, we would bend it during installation. You were right in your observation about using copper; you were not aware of its construction. The ground rod also needs to be 5/8ths in diameter and 8 feet in length driven into the ground, and a secondary ground rod needs to be placed six feet away from that one to avoid doing an ohm measurement.
Hi if you meter base has a breaker switch, would that make the main panel a sub panel.
Good video
Great video.
I appreciate that!
Thanks and great video! An electrician just mounted mine today but at first I thought he didn't leave enough 4/0 wire. He didn't use that SEU 4/0 cable you used just straight up 4/0...now Im going to go see how he clamped it. Anyway - whats that white mounting plate/panel on your house? I have new construction garage and the cement board isn't installed yet and the guy just lagged it straight to the OSB (and he didnt use those water tight screws like you used either).
I really like how you lay out all the supplies and give basic definition. Thanks again!
White block is a vinyl siding meter block. They make different sizes too for outlets, outside lights, exhaust vents for a nice clean look.
Power from the street box to the house..aluminum?....Is copper better to avoid the oxidation challenges?
Great video.. Could you give all the conduit sizes of all the attachments coming out of the meter box, including your 45 angle conduit into the ground?? Thanks…
HOWdy T-E-L, ...
Thanks - very thorough explanation
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
After you install the ground rods (6ft apart) you install the ground wire to the rods and go through the wall of the house to the panel box and connect the wire to the ground bar or to the meter ground?
Hey I love your channel. I just subscribed. I watched most your electrical videos but I have a question I installed a meter base and main break panel side by side. Do I connect both the meter base and panel to ground rods or is on the main break panel enough? The code was kind of ambiguous. Using #4 copper ground wire. Thanks 🙏
would have liked to see how you bend the SEU inside the house to the panel without taking off sheath. Maybe that's another vid? I'm researching how to bend SER 4/0 (4-4-4-2) from main outside to inside 2x6 wall up to attic and then across (easy part).
He did it wrong. That's how he did it. Just flattened it over flat 2x blocking installed tight to that hole - hard 90 degree bend.
It is hard to find licensed electrician who would match the workmanship of this fellow.
Do you need to torque the lugs?
I have a brick house with rotten wood now behind my meter , what’s the best replacement for that wood? The wood is like 2’x2’ in the brick wall not on surface.
Any idea what kind of wire is between metter to the post power source company provider
excellent video! thanks!
Hey Josh please pardon my ignorance,
But I have a question I have one of their boxes from Cutler-Hammer much larger than yours it looks like it's got a breaker panel on the bottom of it, however from The electric I was wanting to know if I could remove that and get in to the box?
I want run lights to my carport and a couple of outlets, I already have everything I need except for five more sticks of conduit two more plugs and boxes and the weatherproof covers for them and I plan on using 10 gauge wire
So do you have any advice?
which end donyou find it easier to start with ?the pad transformer or at the meter socket when running the underground conduit
thank you
You are welcome Jennifer!
Im installing a breaker panel and meter socket on a pedestal for my shed. Does the meter socket need to be on the same side as my power pole?
Does it matter if black is in the right and red on left?
You don't need a supplemental grounding electrode if you have a ufer and a cold water bond
Nice job bro
Thanks for the video josh! I have one question though.. I'm currently adding vinyl siding to the house and my house has the meter and everything already set so I won't be able to install a j block. Do I just J channel around everything??
Yes that is correct, just put J channel around it and you should be fine. Hope that helps!
Why didn't you get a meter base with a main breaker? Will inspection pass without a main breaker?
Excellent video average guy can follow along. QUESTION does the meter base get a copper #6 ground wire. 9:58 besides the aluminum neutral
Yes the meter base is supposed to be ground to a ground rod. Per NEC.
HELP! I'm replacing an old Federal Pacific 100-amp panel with a 200-amp Square D Hameline panel, so I will need to upgrade the service entrance cable and want to use 2/0 THHN copper.
The outdoor meter can/box is mounted low, (30" off the ground at bottom edge of can) outside, so if I use the bottom rear 2-inch knockout of the meter can, it will put the hole through the wall below the bottom edge of the new breaker panel by about 8 inches, so I will have to make a vertical 90 upwards turn from hole in wall to bottom knockout of the new panel. I cannot find a 2" close 90 PVC electrical fitting so I'm guessing they don't make one.
My question is: how do I make that vertical 90 turn upwards? It will eventually be covered in drywall. Do I need to have the inside copper leads in conduit at all? If I use switch to 4/0 aluminum, do I need conduit inside the wall cavity? thanks in advance!
Excellent Laborer, did you know that it would be easier for you to install the ground rods with a hammer drill? I'm sure you must have heard of that. The hammer drill will lesson your work load and make it easier for you. I noticed you did not connect the ground wire to the meter base and I'm wondering why you didn't connect to the meter base.
Fantastic video! Josh, do you know if an expansion coupling fitting is required for an overhead service?
great vid! i heard there is a national shortage on meter bases right now?
Thank you Dave. I did not know that about the shortage. Thanks for letting me know!
By chance would you happen to know the model no. To the Milbank meter box you set?
I wired up a detached, managed to get it inspected. I ran direct burial cable. How far into the ground was your conduit? Did you run it away from the house a certain distance to accommodate utility?
Hi, Can I ask a question? Our meter based was installed right near our window. There is no space between the window and the box, exactly near the window. Is this be allowed or not? And is there any requirement how far it should be away the window or the door? Thank you very much.
Every location is different. So codes are going to vary everywhere. I personally I do not think a window location would be a problem. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much Josh! @Josh
In a overhead weather head type installation the drip loop can't be within 36" of a window..basically so someone can't lean out window and swing from drip loop like Tarzan frying themselves..meter base itself has no distance from window requirements
What do you have mounted between the meter and siding?
What is the flat material you mounted the metal meter base box on, that was already fastened to the siding?
It is a block for mounting the meter. Here is the video of me installing it th-cam.com/video/l1MwrqImWXsI/w-d-xo.html I hope it helps.
Anyway you could send me your link to installing under electric conduit? That is what I am doing right now, 2 1/2 " schedule 40, grey.
if you live in a country whos power standard is 220-240V like europe and asia, can you still use the american version of eletrical distribution panel ?, I ask this because i know the power thst comes into the houses here in the USA is 220V and it is stepped down to 110V at the D.box.
Should the expansion coupling be pulled out a bit before install? what if the conduit has expansion on a hot sunny day ?
That is not necessary. Good thinking though! Thanks for watching!
Yes.. yes it does have to be pulled out it is necessary.. usually about halfway
I look inside my main panel and I don't see the 6 ga or 4 ga bare ground wire (that comes from the outside actual "earthen" ground rod) to connect anywhere inside the main panel that I can see. However, if I follow the buried ground line from the ground rod, it seems to come up through conduit to the outside meter panel and enters there. So the questions......1.) is this a local code difference where the ground line gets connected to some part of the meter panel?....and 2.) how do we continue the ground path from the meter panel to the main panel? I checked ground continuity from the main panel and it's grounded, so I know I have a connection somewhere....just don't know where.... and how "Stout" ( ampacity) it is. Can you or others here help?
Do you have to ground the meter base? Or just the main panel or both??
Thank you for let me washing your video
i am trying to get this done and the electrician was asking 6k$ to do it. How many hours is it to install a meter box with a weatherhead and hook it up directly to a fuse panel ? he was refusing to tell me how many hours this job is and his hourly rate.
Question, why yo need to run to ground ?
Have you ever had to do your own electrical work?
I have completed quite few historic restorations and have done my own electrical work. Excellent content, can’t wait to get through this video.
Oh man I would not know where to begin with a historic restoration. The wiring in some of those old houses(if any) has to be crazy compared to now. Let me know what you think after you get your video! Thanks Randy!
The video was excellent! I absolutely love this channel.
Thanks a lot Randy! I’m glad you like the video. I’ll be wiring for a while so stay tuned!
Licensed electrician here lol. So ya, quite a bit.
I have to have a disconnect with the meter base outside
Gloves my friend, safety first 👍🏼
What material is the white plate behind the meter base?
can this part be done before rough in inspection
Good job man I had a lot of fun 🙂👍
I appreciate that!
I didn’t see the link on Amazon for the meter base?
what is the white board called on the side of the house you mounted the meter to?
It is called a J block. I share the installation on my siding video. I hope that helps!
Very nice video, where are you located? I’m in NC
Your daddy sure raise you right boy