Thank you so much for the video. This was exactly what I needed to fix a Z3. Total cost $32 for relays on ebay and 15 minutes. (with the proper soldering equipment) Saved over $800 over quote from garage. Keep up the good work!!!
Fantastic write up and tutorial! The best I have yet seen with a very thorough walkthrough of which relays to remove. I just learned how to check continuity. :) Thanks mate.
Thank you for such a fast response. I will check the module this weekend. I am a bit of a geek and short of the actual coil going bad, I am willing to attempt repair of the actual relay in the event that I cannot find the relays. I will check my module this weekend. Thank you again for the help.
Whadaya know? I had to repair the window regulator over the weekend and disconnected my battery while I worked on the car so I could disconnect the airbag without any problems. After reconnecting the battery I have not had a single problem with the locks!!! Maybe I just lucked out but I will keep the relay instructions in case they do go south. Thanks again
fixed up mine ;) a bit of a 'shovel' way but still works. worth a try for a guys like me, with no extra equipment, what I did was just cuting of the corner (the hole was about 1 square mm) of a relay and spray some electronic contact cleaner inside. did not work at first, but since my relays were responding (clicking when trying to unlock the car but no effect) but stil not working, I was allready about to change them, I cut 2 oposit corners and when the spray went through it went perfect ;))))
thanks for the video , huge help ! I didn't have desoldering equipment or a good soldering iron with small tip. my solution was to cut off the tops of relays and carefully with a pair of small cutters cut out the relay down to the Base leaving the Base in there with the pins sticking up. I then soldered 2 inches of each colour inside cat 5 cable to each pin then to each of the pins on the new relays. Glued the relays to the board with silicone sealant in areas where there are no components and all works.
Did you buy new -A303 relays? Any chance you snapped of photo of your work? I'm in the same predicament, and would rather NOT desolder 4 relays off the board risking breakage. Thanks!
Chris Volk I'll see if I can find the pic what's your email ? , basically get a pair of small snips and cut away at the top of the relay until you get down to the pins sticking up inside . you will find you need to cut coils and some soft metal etc inside the relay but eventually you get down to only the pins. from there it's a case of soldering on wire between those and the new relays laying them sideways on the board gluing them ideally so the cover fits back over also ensuring a layer of electrical tape on the pins so nothing can touch should they come loose. I used wire from cat 5 cable which was decent thickness to take current and great to handle
I know this is an old post but your idea saved me big time. That's what I love about the car community. Thank you for a fantastic idea that worked wonders. Take care. 👍
Cheers mate, as so happens I was looking at BMW 318's (E46) so will bare this in mind when haggling on prices :) Hit em with that curve ball lol. Thanks for following that one up mate, much appreciated.
Thank you VERY much man. You saved my life :-) I used V23084-c2002-a403 relay and it works propertly. Your "points of control measuring" were really helpful.
+Scott Johnson , so out of the 4 ones stated in the description, which ones do you think will work for sure? V23084-C2001-A303 V23084-C2001-A403 V23084-C2002-A303 V23084-C2002-A403 ?
Only use the -A303 ones. The -A403 relays are made with a different contact material which is for lamp loads which have a very high initial current which decreases quickly as the filaments heat up and no arcing when the contacts open. Motor loads are very different. Motor loads have low initial current which rises quickly as the inductance saturates and arc like crazy when the contact opens. Almost the polar opposite of a lamp load. Sure the -A403 relays will work initially, but, around 18-24 months is when they will start to fail where the contacts will fuse allowing current to continuously flow through the motors and eventually burn out the actuators.
+Scott Johnson OMG, this means that people using the A403 will eventually have to buy new relays and also other parts that will fail or burn out because of the A403 remaining in the closed(current conducting) position! I already bought the A403 because they were easy to find, but glad i didn't mount them on yet. hope i will find the A303 ones. Thank you very very much! You may have saved me some money :) +AintBigAintClever Also...I think that the OP should update the description with this information because in this form it could lead to problems for other people
Sounds like one of the relays is on its way out and needs replacing. The first one I ever came across was on a friend's car (I don't drive a BMW :) ) and I think that was the same symptom, only unlocking when it felt like it. It doesn't matter whether you use the remote or the console button, it always uses the same set of relays to do the job. According to bmwgm5. com the double relay closest to the connectors is responsible for unlocking.
good little fix!, tho replacing heavy components like that on multi layer boards is one thing I hate for the same reason, tearing out traces :( car looks a little worse for wear, I'm guessing its a parts/demo unit?. I do like the way it beeped in complaint as you removed the module live :D
Excellent DIY tutorial. I repair many keys where in the battery breaks off or they have reached the end of their life and strange enough BMW tells the client they need new keys because they don't have a battery inside. What nonsense. Anyhow your tutorial helps sort out those strange one where the central locking would work intermittently but the boot always opens. Great video!!!
The wire was left in place because I'd broken the track. If you've broken a track you need to add a wire to replace it, all connected points are shown at 7:55 so you can see which ones you can link to to fix the break.
Mouser Electronics do the less-sensitive versions but the driver circuit should easily be able to handle them, plus I expect the ones with the less sensitive coils will be slightly tougher.
You saved my car. I managed to buy an desoldering pump, new relays from e bay. Everything works like a charm. The only thing that worked before that dosent is to lock the car from interior through the built in button in the car. Have I accendantily made something wrong? There is a small sound of unlocking the car instead of locking the car when I push that button! Anyway a big thank you, your tutorial are really the best. Kind regards / C
looks like it. I fixed up mine. problem was similar and getting worse and worse. You can check if it is the relays gone, or no contact inside them: remove the gm5 as shown, take the plastic cover off. connect it back and listen while operating, if the relay clicks when trying to open, it has no contact inside. might be just enough to clean it... somewhere below theres my post about it :)
It'll be half of one of the relays, in fact of the double-relay closest to the connectors it's the half furthest away. The first time I fixed one of these it was a bodge job with a pair of ordinary relays. You'll need a proper desoldering iron to take the relays out, they're VERY difficult to shift otherwise.
Fortunately in this case the plated through-holes most likely to pull out are the ground ones, and there are eight of those so they're easy to bridge back in afterwards.
Ive broken a track on the second pin from the botom right as you look at the video when your showing where the connections go. Question is can this just be bridge with a wire accros to the next pin or is it no good now?
The A303 has a different contact arrangement and is a single-pole changeover relay. The A309 is double-pole changeover and has two additional pins. The A303 pinout is in its datasheet, readily available on the net. The A309 pinout is harder to find but can be found on the bmwgm5 site if you search for V23072 A309 in Google. A309s can be bought on eBay.
It'd be worth trying to source a wiring diagram for your car, you may be able to figure out what's common to the faults, whether all the duff bits share a module, switch assembly, even a ground or supply wire.
make sure you check the 5A fuse for the immobilizer mine blew and had the same symptoms as this.mine is in the glove box for a 2004 330ci bmw convertible.
Thanks for saying the drivers door needs to be closed. tried everything but that, and key fob would not work. Closed the drivers door and now keyless locking works like a charm.
Hi and thank you for posting this video. I have a problem where sometimes the locks open and sometimes they don't and it does not matter if I use the remote or the button on the center console. Is this caused by bad relays? Is this what your problem was? Thanks
If the central locking works when you use the key in the keyhole then I'd expect the problem to be within the key. Have you tried changing the battery?
@ min 8:12 three blu points. I checked my Gm5 repaired and it is not working (continuity missing). I bridged two pins (taking along a row, the middle one and the ones soldered) in order to guarantee the continuity between the pins, but it still not working. all the other continuity are fine. Any suggestion? thanks to everybody can help me.
My 2000 323ci convertible appears to have a bad central locking relay. I have ordered it. Since its convertible coupe I've been told it just needs one relay. Compared tk the one in the video will my gm5 have one of the 2 shown in the video and if it has 2 which one is it. Hope my question makes sense
Very nice job I must say and that solder vacuum is definitely a nice tool to have. I do have a question for you. I have both the relays I need to go forward with job, but do not have a way to get rid of the solder for removal and am nervous about doing it. I thought about cutting the bottom of the relays with a dremal tool, but nervous about that as well. Well, my question is, I have a used one that is in excellent condition, is there a way to program this with PA soft? I have that software, but was wondering if there is a way to reprogram the used one to work on my car. Oooooor, do you know what part of the control module makes it linked specifically to the car? Sorry for the book, but there isn’t to much online about this box, just people removing them. Which is the easiest part.
I've no idea when it comes to reprogramming these things. Dealer'd be able to do it (but whether they WOULD do it is another thing) but it'd probably be cheaper to buy the desoldering station.
Thanks for the reply back. I just did a search for desoldering pumps and I didn’t realize they had a smaller version of what you have starting at 10 bucks. Hmmmm, kinda wondering if those little pin pumps would work for this. I guess if it didn’t then I would only be out 10 bucks. On the other hand, everything I’ve done/do for this car is really adding up.
I got the same relays as what you have, but after opening my GM5 module, I found that mine are bigger. Mine are EP2F-B3G1S 8H1 107. Where can I find these relays or could I just open up my existing relays and clean them from all the carbon buildup? I did a google search to find them, but I can’t find the ones I have anywhere.
My module has different relays. And it’s weird because my older one does too. Now either I try to fix it or buy a new one. The two I currently have are not Siemens or tyco. Appears to be different pin lay out but still same amount of relays
I have the same problem.... Not only the central locking but also power windows and internal lighting is not working.. I suspect the ZKE module.... Do the windows and lights use the same relays ? BMW E36 325i conv. 1994.
Hi, in the end of the explanations when you remplace the relay, I just want to know if you let the small electric wire on it or you remove it, to remplace the pist who is missed. If an other pist is broken or out can you tell how I must to do. Thank you very much
quick question, i noticed, you repaired, the confort gm5 module, but you also have a cruise control black box gm5 module... my question is.... doesn't the white box control the cruise control also? i have a e46 wagon 2004 but i have no black box gm5 module... do i need it? or i can just replace the gm5 confort module for one that has 3 pins like that and controls cruise control also? like 2 in 1 or 1000 in 1 type module...
AintBigAintClever I just replaced the relays on my bmw e46 everything works but the drivers side door won't lock anymore. did i maybe break a track? do you know which one is for locking the drivers door?
My guess is that the "high sensitivity" (i.e. lower coil current) versions are a bit more flimsy (to make it easier for the coil). Also, one half of one of the relays gets much more of a workout than the rest.
Great video demonstration... i need for to illustrate to me please where i could find the alarm control section.. everything works find except my alarm.. awaiting your response sir.. thanks!!!!
I replaced my relays. But door locks do not lock or unlock. Windows work, wipers work. But doors do not unlock or lock inside car or with remote. Also no auto lock when driving. What should I check?
hey bud , many thanks for replacing my relays in the gm5 from scotland i sent .. looks like its something else wrong tho ! when u press the lock button standing outside , the indicators flask 1 time + a small noise from the door ... same as before tho. central locking aint working . bbot opens with key button only. boo funkin hoo ...lol
hey man i have a question maybe you can help ,my power window driver side is not working ,electronic shop swaped the relay for the window but it still doesnt work ,is there any other control of relay itself within the module that might prevent it from working even tough the new relay is put in, thanx in advance :)
Hi today I changed those relays so now I'm getting clicking sound like the doors are unlocked but the pins still wont go up! Do you think that it might be the actuators? Any ideas? Thanks!
Hello . I have a problem with the E46, and lock centrol only works if you turn the key on the door, or with the central console button, but the remote control does not function please help thanks
hello.....i got a e46...my car locks but cant unlock the 4 doors...is the relay? when i hit the unlock i hear a sound ...like something sending the command but doesnt unlock.....i tried after 1 hour of driving and then it unlock......any idea?
Hello! I just replace the relays, and now the central locking is not working ( not from the key, not from the button inside the car ). In the gm5 i hear a sound when i press from the key. Help please!
+adrian Cresteaza Sounds like you damged the circuit board. Most likely one or more of the following: pull out a plated through hole, lifted a pad or broke a trace. Fixing boards damaged by amateur is such a pain in the rear.
Please note that the "I cannot provide technical assistance" disclaimer in the video description also applies to Z4 owners. The snarky message I received on Facebook messenger last month, from a suspicious-looking Messenger account with no Facebook profile (and which Facebook only alerted me to when I checked the page this morning) suggests I haven't made this clear. For those in the UK who need their GM5 repaired, www.bmwgm5repair.co.uk/ is one of the top results on Google. Yes it's expensive, but so is having to replace and recode a new GM5 if they break one, so you're paying for skill, not just for parts.
On my bmw the locking via remote doesnt work. Unlocking and opening the trunk works, if i use the key on the driver door only the driver door locks-unlocks. Do i need to replace the top or the bottom reley, so i dont replace both??? thanks for your help.
HI MATE I LIVE IN BRIDGEND ! I have removed the gm5 unit from my car as relays faulty but don't have a soldier sucker or the skill for this. I know this is a long shot but could I possibly come to you tomorrow? Name your price
If you happen to swap the GM5 with another one, the main issue that you will have is that the keys won't work. Solution is to: - sit in the car and close all the doors - put the key in the ignition and turn the key to position two (without turning on the car) - remove key - hold the unlock button, and while holding the unlock, click the lock button three times. - the doors with lock and unlock automatically - turn on the car and enjoy the newly programmed module * there's no necessity of recoding the VIN to the module.
Orange T-shirt and jeans, but it does look sort of flesh coloured in some shots! :D When filming for TH-cam, "ebay teapot" rules apply (do an image search).
hello, i get this error, do you think the problem is in the module.Gateway /ZKE Anti-theft alarm system: Siren, radio inside protection, tilt sensor alarm or wire STDWA short circuit to ground or open ,
hello ............ I have a problem on my bmw e46 the problem that the opening of the doors sometimes open sometimes does not open. I have done to make the control mechanic told me that the relay is defective. I wanted to know what these relays? those that have changed you in the video? then another can change GM5 module can meter a used one? if i can then how to code the meter key with another GM5? please give me the answer thanks.
On my BMW X3 2008 I have a problem with front windows.checked fuses fine , tested window motors fine , side mirrors work fine from the console , my front windows both don’t work from the main switch the back windows function from the main switch . Replaced switch same problem still , any advice ?
you said that two relays are for central locking, are those other two for windshield wiper ? coz i have problem with them...sometimes work, sometimes dont
Hey there, i know you are probably the only person who can answer my question. You are very smart person. 2007 VW GTI . I have a strange problem my left headlight stays on even with key out of ignition car off. I checked pin 6 on the left headlight connector and im getting a constant 12V even with key out of the ignition. Passenger side is 0V at pin 6. Passenger headlight no problems at all I swapped everything from passenger to drivers side for testing purposes and still the driver light will not shut off. Im guessing a relay is stuck, i checked the CECM and traced pin 6 wire from driver side connector all the way to J519(CECM) . It seems no fuse or relay is on that line. Any help would be greatly appriciated. It sucks when you repair a car and it runs perfectly and i cannot put it on the road and pass safety with fixing this issue. Thanks again.
I'd be tempted to bodge it. Get a relay and put the contacts between the stuck-on bulb supply and the bulb itself. Run one side of the relay coil to the bulb feed on the other side (i.e. the working bulb), ground the other side of the relay coil and preferably fit a diode across the relay coil to prevent spikes from it affecting the system (striped end of the diode towards the bulb, non-striped end to ground). Now when the headlights are turned on, the relay will close and activate the other bulb from the supply it would've had anyway, so hopefully no bulb failure warning on the dashboard.
Hi I am having an issue with a BMW 3 series 318 ti two door 2005, one key doesn't register any thing and believe something inside the key will get that checked out when I programed the second key it will unlock the boot and lock doors if I use the key twice in the lock or push the button on centre console it will unlock the doors but wont unlock them via the key even though the key is properly programmed...could this still be the relay or could it be the whole GM module. Thanks in advance
hello, i was planning on replacing the relays myself then notice you have said central door locking fault that affects all doors (not just one). 2000 328 coupe passenger door will not open at all electonically or manually and the drivers door wont open on the fob. everything else works at it should windows lights boot etc, i bought a secondhand door actuator which arrived locked and still nothing. any help much appreciated.
Dude, you are my salvation. I totally messed up with the soldering. But thanks to your instructions, I was able to fix everything. THANK YOU!
Squeaky-bum time I'll bet. Well done fixing it.
The part where you went over checking the connections with your ohmmeter saved me! Just fixed my GM5 module! Thanks!
thnk you!! I just repaired my car fallowing your steps... 7 years later and still useful
Thank you so much for the video. This was exactly what I needed to fix a Z3. Total cost $32 for relays on ebay and 15 minutes. (with the proper soldering equipment)
Saved over $800 over quote from garage. Keep up the good work!!!
Fantastic write up and tutorial!
The best I have yet seen with a very thorough walkthrough of which relays to remove. I just learned how to check continuity. :)
Thanks mate.
Fabulous video, right from start to end. Kept it simple and clear. I still don't tire of hearing a working central locking system. 👍😁
Thank you for such a fast response. I will check the module this weekend. I am a bit of a geek and short of the actual coil going bad, I am willing to attempt repair of the actual relay in the event that I cannot find the relays. I will check my module this weekend. Thank you again for the help.
Thank you. I was able to get my car's locks working properly again by using your tutorial.
Whadaya know? I had to repair the window regulator over the weekend and disconnected my battery while I worked on the car so I could disconnect the airbag without any problems. After reconnecting the battery I have not had a single problem with the locks!!! Maybe I just lucked out but I will keep the relay instructions in case they do go south.
Thanks again
Thank you ;) did this yesterday and all worked fine !
A desoldering pump is a must have for this !
fixed up mine ;) a bit of a 'shovel' way but still works. worth a try for a guys like me, with no extra equipment,
what I did was just cuting of the corner (the hole was about 1 square mm) of a relay and spray some electronic contact cleaner inside. did not work at first, but since my relays were responding (clicking when trying to unlock the car but no effect) but stil not working, I was allready about to change them, I cut 2 oposit corners and when the spray went through it went perfect ;))))
thanks for the video , huge help ! I didn't have desoldering equipment or a good soldering iron with small tip. my solution was to cut off the tops of relays and carefully with a pair of small cutters cut out the relay down to the Base leaving the Base in there with the pins sticking up. I then soldered 2 inches of each colour inside cat 5 cable to each pin then to each of the pins on the new relays. Glued the relays to the board with silicone sealant in areas where there are no components and all works.
Did you buy new -A303 relays? Any chance you snapped of photo of your work? I'm in the same predicament, and would rather NOT desolder 4 relays off the board risking breakage. Thanks!
Chris Volk I'll see if I can find the pic what's your email ? , basically get a pair of small snips and cut away at the top of the relay until you get down to the pins sticking up inside . you will find you need to cut coils and some soft metal etc inside the relay but eventually you get down to only the pins. from there it's a case of soldering on wire between those and the new relays laying them sideways on the board gluing them ideally so the cover fits back over also ensuring a layer of electrical tape on the pins so nothing can touch should they come loose. I used wire from cat 5 cable which was decent thickness to take current and great to handle
paleoint@gmail.com. I'm still debating. It would be nice to come right off the board to Bosch-style relays. Thanks again!
I know this is an old post but your idea saved me big time. That's what I love about the car community. Thank you for a fantastic idea that worked wonders. Take care. 👍
Cheers mate, as so happens I was looking at BMW 318's (E46) so will bare this in mind when haggling on prices :) Hit em with that curve ball lol. Thanks for following that one up mate, much appreciated.
Thank you. This was an east fix took about an hour and saved about $900.00 Relays only cost $5.00 each. Your the sh_t !!!!
Thank you VERY much man. You saved my life :-) I used V23084-c2002-a403 relay and it works propertly. Your "points of control measuring" were really helpful.
That is the wrong PN relay. It will fail prematurely because that relay (-A403) is not designed to handle arcing from inductive loads.
+Scott Johnson , so out of the 4 ones stated in the description, which ones do you think will work for sure?
V23084-C2001-A303
V23084-C2001-A403
V23084-C2002-A303
V23084-C2002-A403 ?
Only use the -A303 ones. The -A403 relays are made with a different contact material which is for lamp loads which have a very high initial current which decreases quickly as the filaments heat up and no arcing when the contacts open. Motor loads are very different. Motor loads have low initial current which rises quickly as the inductance saturates and arc like crazy when the contact opens. Almost the polar opposite of a lamp load. Sure the -A403 relays will work initially, but, around 18-24 months is when they will start to fail where the contacts will fuse allowing current to continuously flow through the motors and eventually burn out the actuators.
+Scott Johnson OMG, this means that people using the A403 will eventually have to buy new relays and also other parts that will fail or burn out because of the A403 remaining in the closed(current conducting) position! I already bought the A403 because they were easy to find, but glad i didn't mount them on yet. hope i will find the A303 ones. Thank you very very much! You may have saved me some money :)
+AintBigAintClever Also...I think that the OP should update the description with this information because in this form it could lead to problems for other people
Thanks! Fixed according to your instructions.
Wow, i managed to fix it thanks to your tutorial! i soldered some wires to bypass some connections and it worked.! many thanks!
I take back what I said about the Welsh!!! Fantastic vid. Very informative. Cheers mate.
Sounds like one of the relays is on its way out and needs replacing. The first one I ever came across was on a friend's car (I don't drive a BMW :) ) and I think that was the same symptom, only unlocking when it felt like it. It doesn't matter whether you use the remote or the console button, it always uses the same set of relays to do the job. According to bmwgm5. com the double relay closest to the connectors is responsible for unlocking.
good little fix!, tho replacing heavy components like that on multi layer boards is one thing I hate for the same reason, tearing out traces :(
car looks a little worse for wear, I'm guessing its a parts/demo unit?. I do like the way it beeped in complaint as you removed the module live :D
Excellent DIY tutorial. I repair many keys where in the battery breaks off or they have reached the end of their life and strange enough BMW tells the client they need new keys because they don't have a battery inside. What nonsense.
Anyhow your tutorial helps sort out those strange one where the central locking would work intermittently but the boot always opens.
Great video!!!
Hi..i have a 08 Mazda demio...the anti theft works sometimes I suspect it's a eeprom issue, can you repair it...
The wire was left in place because I'd broken the track. If you've broken a track you need to add a wire to replace it, all connected points are shown at 7:55 so you can see which ones you can link to to fix the break.
Brilliant thanks for posting this video, saved me one big headache. The only thing I had to do was re sync the keys, easy.
Geoff Hillier u only have to re-sync the keys if u disconnect the battery. hence why in the video he leaves it live
You need to get in touch with the guy who repaired your GM5. I've only repaired one and that's just down the road from me!
Interesting, great video I am curious, where did you source the parts?
Don't thank me, thank the guy who runs the bmwgm5. com website :)
he is very good
Mouser Electronics do the less-sensitive versions but the driver circuit should easily be able to handle them, plus I expect the ones with the less sensitive coils will be slightly tougher.
You saved my car. I managed to buy an desoldering pump, new relays from e bay. Everything works like a charm. The only thing that worked before that dosent is to lock the car from interior through the built in button in the car. Have I accendantily made something wrong? There is a small sound of unlocking the car instead of locking the car when I push that button! Anyway a big thank you, your tutorial are really the best. Kind regards / C
Thank you so much! You saved my car. God bless and all the best to you! :)
looks like it. I fixed up mine. problem was similar and getting worse and worse. You can check if it is the relays gone, or no contact inside them: remove the gm5 as shown, take the plastic cover off. connect it back and listen while operating, if the relay clicks when trying to open, it has no contact inside. might be just enough to clean it... somewhere below theres my post about it :)
It'll be half of one of the relays, in fact of the double-relay closest to the connectors it's the half furthest away. The first time I fixed one of these it was a bodge job with a pair of ordinary relays. You'll need a proper desoldering iron to take the relays out, they're VERY difficult to shift otherwise.
Fortunately in this case the plated through-holes most likely to pull out are the ground ones, and there are eight of those so they're easy to bridge back in afterwards.
All I have is one of the spring loaded vacuum desoldering tools but I will try. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again
wow this was the best video i found on the matter! Thank you so much^!
Awsome video, worked like a charm, and very helpfull with the color indications if you pull out a hole or something,, thumbs up :)
Mouser Electronics do closely-related relays, either with different contact material or slightly different coil power. I'd expect them all to work.
Thanks very much for a very informative video, now will c if that's the problem with my e46
If I ever have this problem, I am informed!!
question for you! in bymer forum they said that the relays are usualy dirty inside with carbon is it possible not to solder ? just a cleanup ?
Great Stuff. i did this for £11ish. Relays came out a doddle with a 40watt iron and a solder sucker. Good Work Anti.....
I was wondering if you think the relays are similar in the e38? where did you find your relay? Thanks! Best Steve
Ive broken a track on the second pin from the botom right as you look at the video when your showing where the connections go.
Question is can this just be bridge with a wire accros to the next pin or is it no good now?
The A303 has a different contact arrangement and is a single-pole changeover relay. The A309 is double-pole changeover and has two additional pins.
The A303 pinout is in its datasheet, readily available on the net. The A309 pinout is harder to find but can be found on the bmwgm5 site if you search for V23072 A309 in Google. A309s can be bought on eBay.
Super hi instructions I have a question you have soldered a wire in 09:17 minutes for what is it? I must also solder wire? thanks for reply
It'd be worth trying to source a wiring diagram for your car, you may be able to figure out what's common to the faults, whether all the duff bits share a module, switch assembly, even a ground or supply wire.
Better if you disconnect battery first, thanks for the video!
looks owesome, question is where to get them relays?
make sure you check the 5A fuse for the immobilizer mine blew and had the same symptoms as this.mine is in the glove box for a 2004 330ci bmw convertible.
Thanks for saying the drivers door needs to be closed. tried everything but that, and key fob would not work. Closed the drivers door and now keyless locking works like a charm.
Hi and thank you for posting this video. I have a problem where sometimes the locks open and sometimes they don't and it does not matter if I use the remote or the button on the center console. Is this caused by bad relays? Is this what your problem was?
Thanks
If the central locking works when you use the key in the keyhole then I'd expect the problem to be within the key. Have you tried changing the battery?
@ min 8:12 three blu points. I checked my Gm5 repaired and it is not working (continuity missing). I bridged two pins (taking along a row, the middle one and the ones soldered) in order to guarantee the continuity between the pins, but it still not working. all the other continuity are fine. Any suggestion? thanks to everybody can help me.
I like that de soldering iron, where did you get it?
Whats a good source for the relays? Thanks for the post great work!
Fab presentation love the car...cheers
My 2000 323ci convertible appears to have a bad central locking relay. I have ordered it. Since its convertible coupe I've been told it just needs one relay. Compared tk the one in the video will my gm5 have one of the 2 shown in the video and if it has 2 which one is it. Hope my question makes sense
Is there any way you could just pop the caps off the relays and clean them instead of removing?
Very nice job I must say and that solder vacuum is definitely a nice tool to have. I do have a question for you. I have both the relays I need to go forward with job, but do not have a way to get rid of the solder for removal and am nervous about doing it. I thought about cutting the bottom of the relays with a dremal tool, but nervous about that as well. Well, my question is, I have a used one that is in excellent condition, is there a way to program this with PA soft? I have that software, but was wondering if there is a way to reprogram the used one to work on my car. Oooooor, do you know what part of the control module makes it linked specifically to the car? Sorry for the book, but there isn’t to much online about this box, just people removing them. Which is the easiest part.
I've no idea when it comes to reprogramming these things. Dealer'd be able to do it (but whether they WOULD do it is another thing) but it'd probably be cheaper to buy the desoldering station.
Thanks for the reply back. I just did a search for desoldering pumps and I didn’t realize they had a smaller version of what you have starting at 10 bucks. Hmmmm, kinda wondering if those little pin pumps would work for this. I guess if it didn’t then I would only be out 10 bucks. On the other hand, everything I’ve done/do for this car is really adding up.
I got the same relays as what you have, but after opening my GM5 module, I found that mine are bigger. Mine are EP2F-B3G1S
8H1 107. Where can I find these relays or could I just open up my existing relays and clean them from all the carbon buildup? I did a google search to find them, but I can’t find the ones I have anywhere.
@@julianmcalister3247 I found them. eBay have them.
www.ebay.com/itm/113079445495
My module has different relays. And it’s weird because my older one does too. Now either I try to fix it or buy a new one. The two I currently have are not Siemens or tyco. Appears to be different pin lay out but still same amount of relays
I have the same problem.... Not only the central locking but also power windows and internal lighting is not working.. I suspect the ZKE module.... Do the windows and lights use the same relays ? BMW E36 325i conv. 1994.
Hi, in the end of the explanations when you remplace the relay, I just want to know if you let the small electric wire on it or you remove it, to remplace the pist who is missed. If an other pist is broken or out can you tell how I must to do. Thank you very much
quick question, i noticed, you repaired, the confort gm5 module, but you also have a cruise control black box gm5 module... my question is.... doesn't the white box control the cruise control also? i have a e46 wagon 2004 but i have no black box gm5 module... do i need it? or i can just replace the gm5 confort module for one that has 3 pins like that and controls cruise control also? like 2 in 1 or 1000 in 1 type module...
AintBigAintClever I just replaced the relays on my bmw e46 everything works but the drivers side door won't lock anymore. did i maybe break a track? do you know which one is for locking the drivers door?
My guess is that the "high sensitivity" (i.e. lower coil current) versions are a bit more flimsy (to make it easier for the coil). Also, one half of one of the relays gets much more of a workout than the rest.
Thank You AintBigAintClever ! I resolwe my problem with couple of wires and little patient ! Thanks ! Its cotst me 8 dollars ! :)
Excellent...I replaced the two relays as you did but the doors stil wont unlock. I can here it click and try.
Where did you buy the welding tools?thanks
After soldering the relays has worked for two or three ententes and now my other Purta closes only the driver, some welding think is wrong?
Great video demonstration...
i need for to illustrate to me please where i could find the alarm control section..
everything works find except my alarm..
awaiting your response sir..
thanks!!!!
I replaced my relays. But door locks do not lock or unlock. Windows work, wipers work. But doors do not unlock or lock inside car or with remote. Also no auto lock when driving. What should I check?
If you have the same problem I expect the same cause. This seems to be a very common problem in the BMW door modules.
Hello. My key remote stopped working last Day. But with The key all Works fine. But No respond with The key remote. Is it because of this 2 relays ?
hey bud , many thanks for replacing my relays in the gm5 from scotland i sent .. looks like its something else wrong tho ! when u press the lock button standing outside , the indicators flask 1 time + a small noise from the door ... same as before tho. central locking aint working . bbot opens with key button only. boo funkin hoo ...lol
How much would BMW charge to carry out the work to fix this problem??
hey man i have a question maybe you can help ,my power window driver side is not working ,electronic shop swaped the relay for the window but it still doesnt work ,is there any other control of relay itself within the module that might prevent it from working even tough the new relay is put in, thanx in advance :)
Any idea which ones control the windows sunroof and radio and signals I have all four not working ???
Glad you sorted it :)
Hi today I changed those relays so now I'm getting clicking sound like the doors are unlocked but the pins still wont go up! Do you think that it might be the actuators? Any ideas? Thanks!
Do you have to recode it to the car or can it just be done and put back into the car and it will work
No recoding. Take it out, replace relays, put back in.
Mine locks but wont unlock on the drivers door. Would this fix that?
Tx so much, again ! still works fine ! :)
Hello . I have a problem with the E46, and lock centrol only works if you turn the key on the door, or with the central console button, but the remote control does not function please help thanks
I have same problem with both my keys, I know this is an old question but did you get it fixed? If so, what was the solution?
hello.....i got a e46...my car locks but cant unlock the 4 doors...is the relay? when i hit the unlock i hear a sound ...like something sending the command but doesnt unlock.....i tried after 1 hour of driving and then it unlock......any idea?
Hello! I just replace the relays, and now the central locking is not working ( not from the key, not from the button inside the car ). In the gm5 i hear a sound when i press from the key. Help please!
+adrian Cresteaza
Sounds like you damged the circuit board. Most likely one or more of the following: pull out a plated through hole, lifted a pad or broke a trace.
Fixing boards damaged by amateur is such a pain in the rear.
+adrian Cresteaza Watch from 7:50 to see the points that can be joined together on the board to fix any broken tracks or through-holes.
Dude, you're fucking awesome. You even showed us where to make bridges in-case we fuck up. Can't thank you enough.
Please note that the "I cannot provide technical assistance" disclaimer in the video description also applies to Z4 owners. The snarky message I received on Facebook messenger last month, from a suspicious-looking Messenger account with no Facebook profile (and which Facebook only alerted me to when I checked the page this morning) suggests I haven't made this clear. For those in the UK who need their GM5 repaired, www.bmwgm5repair.co.uk/ is one of the top results on Google. Yes it's expensive, but so is having to replace and recode a new GM5 if they break one, so you're paying for skill, not just for parts.
On my bmw the locking via remote doesnt work. Unlocking and opening the trunk works, if i use the key on the driver door only the driver door locks-unlocks. Do i need to replace the top or the bottom reley, so i dont replace both??? thanks for your help.
Ik begin er morgen aan🎉🎉
HI MATE I LIVE IN BRIDGEND ! I have removed the gm5 unit from my car as relays faulty but don't have a soldier sucker or the skill for this.
I know this is a long shot but could I possibly come to you tomorrow? Name your price
First I want to thank you very much for this video. Also, could you please tell me where you purchased this relay?
I bought from Mouser Electronics but they consider these relays obsolete now. They don't stock anything in the V23084 range.
i just have this question about this if i change the relays do i have to reprogram the GM5 box
No, you'd only need to reprogram the GM5 if swapping it from one vehicle to another.
poo great thank you so much
If you happen to swap the GM5 with another one, the main issue that you will have is that the keys won't work.
Solution is to:
- sit in the car and close all the doors
- put the key in the ignition and turn the key to position two (without turning on the car)
- remove key
- hold the unlock button, and while holding the unlock, click the lock button three times.
- the doors with lock and unlock automatically
- turn on the car and enjoy the newly programmed module
* there's no necessity of recoding the VIN to the module.
Orange T-shirt and jeans, but it does look sort of flesh coloured in some shots! :D
When filming for TH-cam, "ebay teapot" rules apply (do an image search).
hello, i get this error, do you think the problem is in the module.Gateway /ZKE
Anti-theft alarm system: Siren, radio inside protection, tilt sensor alarm or wire
STDWA short circuit to ground or open ,
hello ............ I have a problem on my bmw e46 the problem that the opening of the doors sometimes open sometimes does not open. I have done to make the control mechanic told me that the relay is defective. I wanted to know what these relays? those that have changed you in the video? then another can change GM5 module can meter a used one? if i can then how to code the meter key with another GM5? please give me the answer thanks.
On my BMW X3 2008 I have a problem with front windows.checked fuses fine , tested window motors fine , side mirrors work fine from the console , my front windows both don’t work from the main switch the back windows function from the main switch . Replaced switch same problem still , any advice ?
you said that two relays are for central locking, are those other two for windshield wiper ? coz i have problem with them...sometimes work, sometimes dont
According to the bmwgm5 website they're electric window relays.
thank you very much :) you're very helpfull ;)
I THANK I LIKED YOU VIDEO BUT I WOULD LIKE YO BUY A DESOLDERIN GUN THAT YOU USED IN THE VIDEO ANY CLUE?
cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384
Hey there, i know you are probably the only person who can answer my question. You are very smart person. 2007 VW GTI . I have a strange problem my left headlight stays on even with key out of ignition car off. I checked pin 6 on the left headlight connector and im getting a constant 12V even with key out of the ignition. Passenger side is 0V at pin 6. Passenger headlight no problems at all I swapped everything from passenger to drivers side for testing purposes and still the driver light will not shut off. Im guessing a relay is stuck, i checked the CECM and traced pin 6 wire from driver side connector all the way to J519(CECM) . It seems no fuse or relay is on that line. Any help would be greatly appriciated. It sucks when you repair a car and it runs perfectly and i cannot put it on the road and pass safety with fixing this issue. Thanks again.
I'd be tempted to bodge it. Get a relay and put the contacts between the stuck-on bulb supply and the bulb itself. Run one side of the relay coil to the bulb feed on the other side (i.e. the working bulb), ground the other side of the relay coil and preferably fit a diode across the relay coil to prevent spikes from it affecting the system (striped end of the diode towards the bulb, non-striped end to ground).
Now when the headlights are turned on, the relay will close and activate the other bulb from the supply it would've had anyway, so hopefully no bulb failure warning on the dashboard.
Hi I am having an issue with a BMW 3 series 318 ti two door 2005, one key doesn't register any thing and believe something inside the key will get that checked out when I programed the second key it will unlock the boot and lock doors if I use the key twice in the lock or push the button on centre console it will unlock the doors but wont unlock them via the key even though the key is properly programmed...could this still be the relay or could it be the whole GM module. Thanks in advance
hello, i was planning on replacing the relays myself then notice you have said central door locking fault that affects all doors (not just one). 2000 328 coupe passenger door will not open at all electonically or manually and the drivers door wont open on the fob. everything else works at it should windows lights boot etc, i bought a secondhand door actuator which arrived locked and still nothing. any help much appreciated.
Depends where you are. Try Mouser Electronics.
Haha, I've seen the teapot listing. And the hilarious spoofs it spawned.
Had me wondering if it was a subtle April fool's joke or something!