I did not receive any sponsorship or paid advertisement from Flex Seal or any other products I use in my videos. This will be a really fun video, stay tuned!!!
@@northernlightsrenovations1710 totally agree that the mastik was prob the cause of majority of the fails in this shower. had he used thinset this would just be a remodel to update look lol.
I have used redgard on a few upstairs bathrooms overtop mortar beds and 7 years later they are in good condition. I am pretty sure it was user error. I have found that if you go too thick you get cracking and that is very easy to get in the corners. I would assume that if he only got his info from a Home Depot person he may have applied it too thick and either got cracking or even may have set on it when it was too fresh. You should do an updated video on your new proffered method of waterproofing.
@@marcusaydelott Agreed Marcus, painting it on too thick seems to cause cracking. It's also important to have a dry and clean surface to paint it onto. Two thinner coats is ideal.
Didn't use epoxy grout obviously. That, and mastic, is what caused the failure. After 20 years, Redguard was still working and saved the framing. This is a great validation of Redguard, and I'm glad I used it on my recent shower build. It's over a crawl space, so if it ever leaks a drop. I will be able to see it. Thanks for the interesting video!
@@FernandoMartinez-xn6rj Redguard says right on the install on the bucket. A polymer modified adhesive designed for tile installation. If it doesn't have the polymer modification in it, it will fail.
It didn't save the framing on the curb!! You guys need to understand that there is a difference between an adhesive and a waterproofing membrane. YES....ABSOLUTELY , Mastic sucks as an adhesive, but that has nothing to do with the curb rotting out . Mastic failures result in tiles falling off due to poor adhesion Redguard failures result in rotting wood, cracked tiles (which is an uncoupling failure) and moisture getting in wall cavities. And Redguard DOES fail from time to time. Why? What do you do after Redguard is applied? You use a notched trowel to apply thinset. Notched trowels scratch the hell out of a surface. It is a skin...a membrane. It is easy to breach. Here is an experiment to prove a point. Try taking a notched trowel to your bare leg using the same pressure and force you would use to apply thinset and let me know what it does to your leg after a few minutes of scratching it. Your skin is very similar to a membrane.
was very surprised no blame of mastic was included in this video. Ive installed 100s of gallons of redgard in my shower construction business and it states VERY clearly in the instructions that it is 100% not compatible with mastic 🙄
Hi Isaac! Can you explain how the Redguard failed in this application in another video? It seemed to be the only product used correctly in this shower build. Perhaps it's why the shower lasted 20 years 🤔
@@hjwang4477 so did the water get into the foundation because the tile was NOT installed correctly? If the tile was installed wrong that's not the fault if redgard.
Water coming up, you can use anything you want, but if you have subfloor flex, incomplete grouting, or using mastic on a shower floor you’ll have that issue. I wouldn’t consider a Home Depot employee an expert, why would you be working in the tile and flooring section if you were. I use it after my pan mortar has cured and over my walls after my seams are taped and sealed. No pan liner. I would say, that’s not the Red Guard but, watching too many diy shows
Homeowner misused red guard should be the title, the stuff is awesome, used it for many years on many projects never had a single call back or problem with the stuff it's essential that it's fully cured before you lay tile on it and actually when done right it forms a very tough thick layer.
I'm a complete amateur/home owner and what I got out of this video was: Shower lasted 20 years; don't use mastic in the shower or any wet area; and RedGuard did it's job as advertised saved the lumber. I think MAYBE this video is slightly mistitled. Thanks for your time and efforts though!
I'd say he did it correct and you can use mastic on walls..I think the guy sold him premixed thinset and that doesn't work 🙂 I can't believe your using flex seal..it will never work..
Flex seal failed when used in stock tank pools, possibly application errors or chemicals contributed to the failures but either way I wouldn’t use in in my shower. Red guard has proven to be a good product when applied correctly
I used flex seal in an outdoor fountain. It works for a while, and then eventually bubbles up. Of course, it's outdoors and exposed to the sun, so I don't know how it would hold up under tile, but I don't trust it.
I dont see nothing wrong with Red guard. Thousands have used it and it works. Key thing is properly used. There is a tile channel out there, he would of been smashing the person that installed it. Saying how stupid and all that. But you Coach didnt do that, you even pointed out some good things they did. Being humble, shows your confidence in your skills. Awesome Job Isaac!
Just discovered you and your videos are absolutely superb. I’m a Chicago remodeler, former professional basement remodeler, now doing bathrooms and remodeling and updating older basements and homes. If I could go back 15 years and watch your videos as we did bathrooms in almost every basement. Just imagine. what I could have learned from you. Your an excellent speaker and describe each step and showing failures is so much more important than just a final beautiful bathroom. What a great learning video. I will continue to watch you and look forward to learning and watching. Thank you! Dave, Chicago
I worked 40 years on elevators in many buildings that were over a hundred years old. Water, heat and uv light degrade almost everything. A wall, floor and ceiling move against each other. Anything that cannot take that movement over time will fail. Wood on concrete that gets wet certain failure over time. Even a copper roof fails in due time. A shower is a tough environment.
I use regard all the time. I've also used laticrete, Mapei, and other competitors paint on water proofing/anti fracture barrier products. I wouldn't consider any of them better then any other others. The biggest difference between them is the different colors. What I saw you do is what I've been doing for over 13 years now. Cut strips of laticrete antifracture fabric and use it like drywall tape on all the seams of the shower/inside corners. Then you paint a second layer on everything after the fabric is bedded. Have to use a brush for final stroke. If you use a roller it pulls off the fabric on the back of the roller sometimes. That's the secret to a real functional waterproofing layer. I also prefill all my inside corners/seams with sickaflex polyurethane based construction sealant. The best way IMO is to do a waterproofing layer on the top of your mortar as well. Then it basically seals off the mortar from the water washing out the lime over time and depositing it in the drain or weakening the mortar. The underneath waterproofing layer is just a second layer of protection if the top fails to stop everything. I use a full piece of fabric across the whole pan on top of the mortar along with a paint on water proofing and fabric sealed corners. The only thing that causes even a well made mortar shower pan to fail over time is after about 30 years or more the wet mortar becomes weakened from the lime being washed out. Waterproof the top and you prevent 99% of that.
I love how the tile barcode stickers transferred over to the mastic perfectly on the curb. I don’t understand when people don’t take those off before install. Just a pet peeve.
Nice, I love walking into those, makes me feel like a super hero, just keep going and going chaa ching, chaa ching. Love your skills, you got skills. I got skills and plan to use them. God Bless.
Please note the DIY guy also did not change the plumbing. You can't use a tub drain in a shower there's no way for the moisture to wick into the drain. I wish Isaac had demo'd the drain and showed us that element.
20 years on that install is pretty impressive considering. Im often amazed at the random durability of some of the terribly built stuff I've torn apart, definitely seen some crazy head scratching stuff.
Yeah I have tear up some tiles that directly bound to wood sub floor and it took me a lot more effort to remove than tiles over mortar bed imbedded with wire mesh. Some Times it makes me wonder if it really worth it to do all these by the book.
@@jlai3861 Depends on the application, sure mastic adhesives can be harder to remove but they serve a different purpose than mortar beds for example. Substrate materials, framing, environment and specific use all play a role in deciding what install method to use. Yeah people mix them up all the time, Ive pulled mastic glued tile out of bathrooms and once went to redo a 3x5 entryway once and it was on a felt backed 12" thick mortarbed with mesh in a dry area. Never know with people.
I used red gaurd many times, yet to see it failing. It all depends on your workmanship, the way you perform. I have tile stallers that cut corners on a thin set applying on the floor or walls that give them a twice speed scale on installing the tiles so they can make twice more money in one they. But you and i know those areas that don't have enough thin set on them. They will break once someone steps on them. On at least crack. I have seen tile staller and more.
Since the curb tile was directly applied to a wood surface and the lumber was in direct contact with the concrete there would be tiny voids between the surfaces that would sweat from the steam and temperature changes, and that alone will cause dry rot even if the outside surfaces were water tight. That's why proper vapor barriers and substrates are important, and most of the time home owners don't realize that and that's the first place they cut corners to save a buck. The dry rot on the curb started on the inside way before surface water started getting in. I started as a concrete finisher and carpenter in new construction. When the market tanked I started remodeling and learned how to do drywall, tile, vinyl, and every thing else involved for the most part. So I'm on the job from start to finish, and after 30 years I'm still amazed at some of the shit people do to their own houses trying to save money.
Red Gard works correctly when installed well. Being that this homeowner used tile mastic in a shower and with Red Gard that's a double no no. Not sure this is a Red Gard issue so much as a bad tile installation ... Not to mention Red Gard cannot be used over wood as per their installation guidelines.
Redgard can be used over wood as a crack isolation membrane, but not as a waterproofer. I think the other part of the issue is with mastic it actually causes a chemical reaction to the Redgard, none of the tile manufacturers allow mastic on top of their liquid waterproofers except Tec, oddly.
@@GilBatesLovesyou Ahh yes good call I should have caveated that (crack isolation membrane). Oh interesting I did not know that part, but I do know the tile glue has a very very hard time curing between the membrane and the tile. I'm surprised the tile even stayed and did not slough off the wall.
@@TheBabaYagas Yeah, if you look at Custom or Mapei's TDS for their liquid waterproofers or any mastic, they all say not to use them together. If you want to use mastic on a shower wall you need to go with cement board plus plastic sheet under it, which is actually cheaper and probably would hold up fine *on walls* with 4x4s or something. Just under bigger tiles the mastic would never dry.
Taking any "advice" from Lowe's or Home Depot is a direct track to disaster. Each one of their employees seem to present themself as an expert in their assigned department. Yet most have little knowledge and less experience in their purported area. I could do nothing but laugh one time when I was talked into going to a Lowe's weekend 'seminar' on painting. The eighteen year old gal teaching it had painted her bedroom at her mom's house. That was her total knowledge and experience which was quickly evident in her presentation. Over the years when ordering building materials and or buying them the lack of knowledge of the employees has always been apparent. In most cases that went with a lack of interest in their field which precludes learning about it. If you are looking for leading edge technology in products or applications you can go very wrong relying on the information they will present. Another danger is they will seldom admit they know little about the products other than what they have been told by the various distributors. It always pays to do your own multipoint information sourcing when needing help. Relying on big box store employees who are here one week and gone the next is a recipe for failure. Know what you want, find it in the store, and buy it is using them for what they are.
@@toomanymarys7355 You are lucky if that is the case in your area. In the PNW I frequent the electrical departments and I have yet to meet anyone who has even a minimal knowledge. Not many qualified electricians I know of will work for the wages paid there. Always seems frustrating when dealing with the box stores.
They dont really have anyone that old because like always is all about money . They rather pay these young guys less yet I dont see or hear them being forced to try to learn some of the trade but do see these young guys on the phone a lot no matter the race . And in a few months or years see then in another department and I know they dont know crap like being told the best fitting for plumbing is a shark bite I only use that in case of an emergency . Or been told one coat paint covers over everything but if your a painter you know one coat paint only covers certain colors and the wall has to be properly prepared sanded primed etc but the homeowner will say the guy at home depot said just one coat and I'm good and the wall looks like crap or homeowners being told to use the wrong caulk in wrong applications especially when it comes to bathrooms. I tell homeowners there so much info on the net that to do their research or call someone they trust. Flex o seal is temporary not a solution to a lot of the leaks or other problems I used it a while back until the homeowner had enough to fix part of their roof with the sun and expansion and contraction after a few years the material failed I read their instructions too but thats why they got roofing material
My local home Depot has a guy in plumbing who is definitely knowledgeable. I've been doing residential remodeling for over a decade, so I know who knows and who doesn't know jack. Yes, they have a lot of clueless employees but some are very experienced. There are a lot of stores who focuss on one trade and those places actually hire experienced employees. However, some of those guys are real ass holes. They've been doing plumbing, or electrical or flooring for so long that they really don't want to deal with questions.
How would the Flex seal be any different from the RedGaurd after 20 years? Would it not get brittle and crack all the same? I would think PVC liner would still be the safer choice...but I'm no expert so I'm genuinely curious.
That is one of the biggest myths in the tile business. Most sealers are designed to "form an invisible barrier that is resistant to moisture and stains while allowing vapor to escape". All cement based grouts will allow water migration over time.
Be nice if Isaac chimes in here, but my take is the structure was: subfloor cement, redgard, preslope cement, redgard, mastic, tile. The mastic failed allowing the tiles to move, and the top layer of redgard failed in at least some capacity (maybe punctured by tile movement?). Water saturated the preslope concrete but was held back by the bottom layer of redgard. The preslope was touching the wood curb and it rotted away. So the end result was mold and mildew, flexing curb, and water squeezing out between tiles, but the water was ultimately contained within the shower and did not cause failures in the studs (also individually redgarded) nor the surroundings. Pretty close call. Also demonstrates the "moisture sandwich" which is an argument against applying liquid water proofing over sheet membranes, which Isaac does quite often. This sandwich likely saved the structure in my opinion.
I demo'd a shower a couple years ago that used a bucket of premixed thinset without reading the instructions. It can't be used in wet environments. It just like the buckets of Drywall mud vs bags of 20/45/90 easy sand. Premixed mediums will reabsorb water after drying and return to a paste, because they depend on water evaporation to bond. Even if the instructions say you can use on a shower wall... don't.
Hey whats up again bro, just wanted to let you know my dad and I ,ripped out his old fiber glass unibody shower,and we’re putting a tile walk in shower. We keep referring to your videos… it’s helped us a whole lot, 🙏 thanks
Isaac, you didn't mention anything about the preslope and whether there were weep holes at the drain so the water under the tiles could drain out eventually. Did a lack of weep holes contribute to all that water sitting under the floor tiles? Standing water like that would wreck just about any shower installation over time. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Agree. I wanted to know how the drain was integrated into the overall waterproofing envelope. Because it didn't look like it was... like at all (thus the water squishing up when he stepped on the tiles). He can redgaurd the slope and all he wants, but how does the regaurd interface with the drain? Seemed like the only means for water to enter that drain was from the face of the tile, and any water than made it through the grout would just pool there until it could evaporate back through the grout or weep through breakages in the redgaurd. It seems like had there been proper drain integration and a weeping mechanism, even the mastic wouldn't have been a problem, much less the redgaurd.
@@grahamd.8713 Thank God somebody gets it! I think the mastic still would be a problem but much less so. The water should either flow through a morter bed or thin set hit the waterproofing and be drained through the weep holes in the drain. This has to be a two piece drain that you can set the elevation on to tile height. In the video it looks like the only provision for water to get out is at tile level , but can't be sure. If your a home owner do you're do diligence and then some before you waterproof a shower, It is not as straight forward as it may look.
I was called to fix the similar problem. There was a lot of water under the tiles. The rubber membrane was installed but there was no preslop. All the water that got through the tiles and mortar bed just stayed down there on the horizontally installed rubber membrane. Instead of going down to the drain using the preslop angle.
I cannot for the life of me understand why any of your videos would ever get a thumbs down. Your videos have been extremely valuable to me in my projects. Your attitude as a teacher and encourager is so refreshing! Thank you!
17 year professional and never had one call back ever. Every shower i have built has 2 coats of redguard over the hardiboard and I never put hardi board in any saturation zone.
One thing a lot of people don't know is mastic isn't compatible with most liquid waterproofers, as the mastic chemically messes with the liquid waterproofing layer. The only manufacturer that allows their own mastic and liquid waterproofer together is actually Tec, none of the rest do. If you wanted to use mastic on a shower/tub surround wall you'd need to use a plastic sheet behind cement board and that's it, anything else and you get no warranty.
you're saving my life! My shower looked JUST LIKE THIS. I'm taking it down to the studs, and was worried about the pan, not now ! Thanks sooooo much. Let you know how it turns out.😊
A true test would be to build it back exactly like it was done before, with the mastic, except use Flex-seal as the waterproofing system. If it lasts 20 years, I’d really be surprised.
I did this mistake once. I put a new tile floor in a shower over an existing tile floor with mastic and it did t work. I had to pull it up and redo it with thin set. Shower didn't leak since it was already waterproof before I started, but it was a lesson learned. Just completed another shower this month. No mastic in the floor!
This video raises a lot of questions. Did the Redgard fail or was it not applied properly? Are Redgard, Mastic compatible or did the Mastic have a deleterious effect on the Redgard. Was water pooling under the tiles due to improper shower pan design or were the weep holes blocked?
oh boy,. I'm now more worried than ever. We have a 2nd story shower that is tile. it's got issues...yeah...issues. We stopped using it when we found water damage downstairs. So...I guess tear it out and hire someone to put a new shower in. But after reading comments and watching these videos, I have no idea who to trust. Hate to make a closet out of a needed shower, but at this point, not sure what to do or who to trust.
Finding someone good is a real challenge, especially because you often won't know if an install failed for a year or more. Maybe ask some questions about their waterproofing process to get an idea if they know what they're doing. Also, don't rule out ornery people if they will do a good job. No good answer though.
I agree. However, id never rely on just fibatape and redgaurd on my curbs. Red gaurd does lose its waterproofing ability over time. I always use a sheet membrane plus a roll on waterproofing on shower pan, curbs, benches and niche sills. And in some other circumstances as well.
And the pan liner should go up the walls at least 6 inches and over the curb, fastened on the outside of the curb near the floor. I can see why the curb’s wood rotted
Take them fishing 50 miles off the coast and tell them you repaired a hole with flex seal under the boat last week, see what their reaction looks like Lol
Properly installed:: A tiled shower should last the lifetime of the home. Reguard isn't difficult to use,, it just takes a long time to apply. Reinforcing tape, used in corners and seams,, 2 thick coats on vertical surfaces,, 3 thick coats on flat surfaces. Last coat should be slightly "combed/notched troweled for thinset grip,, AND each coat needs about 24hours to cure (not dry, CURE). So, You can see why this product is not popular with contractors. Modern felt/cloth membranes install and dry in 1 day. Then there is "sealing".. Cement based grouts need 2 to 3 days to CURE,, before sealing. Contractors don't like coming back to job sites. So they'll tell ya it's not necessary,, or might use a modern waterproof grouts , that are fine for dry areas,, but not wet areas. "Waterproofing" is what goes under the tile.. "Sealing" is a topical application. Sealers can last for decades,, before needing to be re-coated.
The bottom plate framing should be pressure treated lumber on a slab. That is probably why it is wet and still solid. looks like the Redgard failed due to the installer. Too thick of individual coats? Should have still made a solid membrane under the mastic.
Hi Isaac.... Considering the fact that the user seemingly disregard REDGUARD'S INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS the product did okay. As you have shown in your videos their are "professional tilers" who are NON-COMPOS-MENTIS and their work FAILS immediately. So given that fact and the lack of knowledge of the user in this case the product after being misused did okay I have used it under my sink cabinet area, dishwasher area.. even tested the dishwasher area before installation of the new dishwasher. No leaks drips or runs... Even crawled under house and verified... (Honestly had other plumbing to do too🤔) Anyway the subfloor etc looked fine. You "Best Red Guard Video" is a good training aid... EBW USN Ret
I see a lot of comments about mastic contributing to water failure. You should build the shower where you can fully use it without water loss without a single tile or any type of masonry. Mastic made the tile adhesion fail, but the structure was rotted from an ill planned waterproofing. Tile,grout,thin set does not stop water.
Redgaurd workd better then expected. It failed cuz they forgot a showerpan..u can say the new kurdi system with styrofoam replaces a rubber shower pan but I'm not buying it. I'd always sell to a costomer hard backer or go board and a good old fashion shower pan
Wait, wait. I have to question something. You have a great video here, and I like your speed and thorough approach. However, the whole reason this shower failed is because the owner used the wrong product. Is Flex Seal any more tried and true now than mastic was then? Does anyone know the longevity of Flex Seal over 20 years in a shower application? It seems you might be repeating the same type of mistake the owner did, unless enough is known about the Flex Seal.
I was always told mastic was for counter backsplashes, and at least a foot higher in the shower or tub enclosures for small form tiles .and I think you're pretty lucky that curve was drier looking compared to some that I've seen that have been like a gray mush.. it's like you almost want to throw your tools away after you scraped it out with no end to the smell. Lol ..looked like even though it lasted 20 years it was doomed from the start because the flooring didn't flow to the drain, much less the other problems.. lol love these videos always like seeing other craftsman doing there thing..
The funny thing is I was at home depot and saw an older couple in the check out with 1 gallon of redgurd and a big tub of mastic. I wanted to say something but, didn't want to make a sceen in the check out.
I looked into redgard & it did not say anywhere on data sheet that it crystalizes in a masonary surface, so im skeptical on what is best for me. That is what is suggested to me befofe apply a rubber, or some cheaper elastomeric coatings.
Thanks for the video and the laugh from the toilet tank repair. The tile setters used this product on the outside porches where we are working. First rain and there is already water under the tile. What should the application of outdoor ceramic tile be? it is a balcony osb substrate? Thanks
There must be a story behind why the owner will allow flexseal as the sole waterproofing. Just adventurous dude, or a deep discount, or an amazing warranty?
He should of mentioned wrong drain was used. You should use a drain specific to a tile pan. you need the weep holes to constantly allow moisture to escape. That shower lasted 20 years is nothing short of a miracle.
Used the flex seal spray on exterior masonry and it shrunk and pulled away from the surface causing water intrusion. Not satisfied with flexseal at all.
I did not receive any sponsorship or paid advertisement from Flex Seal or any other products I use in my videos. This will be a really fun video, stay tuned!!!
Your title should have been "Homeowner Used REDGARD AND MASTIK and His Shower FAILED!!!
@@northernlightsrenovations1710 totally agree that the mastik was prob the cause of majority of the fails in this shower. had he used thinset this would just be a remodel to update look lol.
You willing to put your time and rep on the line for flex seal?! Your buddy ok with it maybe failing and having to redo it all down the road?!
I have used redgard on a few upstairs bathrooms overtop mortar beds and 7 years later they are in good condition. I am pretty sure it was user error. I have found that if you go too thick you get cracking and that is very easy to get in the corners. I would assume that if he only got his info from a Home Depot person he may have applied it too thick and either got cracking or even may have set on it when it was too fresh. You should do an updated video on your new proffered method of waterproofing.
@@marcusaydelott Agreed Marcus, painting it on too thick seems to cause cracking. It's also important to have a dry and clean surface to paint it onto. Two thinner coats is ideal.
Didn't use epoxy grout obviously. That, and mastic, is what caused the failure. After 20 years, Redguard was still working and saved the framing.
This is a great validation of Redguard, and I'm glad I used it on my recent shower build. It's over a crawl space, so if it ever leaks a drop. I will be able to see it.
Thanks for the interesting video!
Isaac, you should re-title this video: " Homeowner used mastic in his shower and it failed"
For real!
Isaac: redguard failed
Me: 😳
Isaac: yeah, looks like mastic
Me: ohhhhh, you had me there for a second you silly boy 😂
Agreed
Even better looks like concrete is holding the water in???!!!!!?
i dont understand. Are you saying that mastic causes the failure in the waterproofing?
Mastic on a shower floor will fail literally every time.
The redguard was probably the only thing that contributed to this shower lasting 20 years
Red Guard been out for 20 years?😯
@@reddbeard2030 maybe longer? I learned of it in ‘05, but it had already been out for a while.
Fact. This isn't a Redguard failure, this was an install failure. If they'd used mortar instead of mastic, it would be been fine.
@@dizzy13sn what kind of mortar? Thin-set?
@@FernandoMartinez-xn6rj Redguard says right on the install on the bucket. A polymer modified adhesive designed for tile installation. If it doesn't have the polymer modification in it, it will fail.
Title should have been Redgard saves framing even when incorrectly applied.
It didn't save the framing on the curb!!
You guys need to understand that there is a difference between an adhesive and a waterproofing membrane.
YES....ABSOLUTELY , Mastic sucks as an adhesive, but that has nothing to do with the curb rotting out . Mastic failures result in tiles falling off due to poor adhesion
Redguard failures result in rotting wood, cracked tiles (which is an uncoupling failure) and moisture getting in wall cavities.
And Redguard DOES fail from time to time.
Why? What do you do after Redguard is applied? You use a notched trowel to apply thinset. Notched trowels scratch the hell out of a surface.
It is a skin...a membrane. It is easy to breach.
Here is an experiment to prove a point. Try taking a notched trowel to your bare leg using the same pressure and force you would use to apply thinset and let me know what it does to your leg after a few minutes of scratching it. Your skin is very similar to a membrane.
was very surprised no blame of mastic was included in this video. Ive installed 100s of gallons of redgard in my shower construction business and it states VERY clearly in the instructions that it is 100% not compatible with mastic 🙄
Hi Isaac! Can you explain how the Redguard failed in this application in another video? It seemed to be the only product used correctly in this shower build. Perhaps it's why the shower lasted 20 years 🤔
Because the water gets into the foundation so redguard failed. And also curb failed
@@hjwang4477 so did the water get into the foundation because the tile was NOT installed correctly? If the tile was installed wrong that's not the fault if redgard.
See how well the redgard sealed that toilet?? Stuff works!
yeah. this hardly is a red guard fail
seems like a mastic issue
🤣🤣
Water coming up, you can use anything you want, but if you have subfloor flex, incomplete grouting, or using mastic on a shower floor you’ll have that issue. I wouldn’t consider a Home Depot employee an expert, why would you be working in the tile and flooring section if you were. I use it after my pan mortar has cured and over my walls after my seams are taped and sealed. No pan liner. I would say, that’s not the Red Guard but, watching too many diy shows
It’s no a redgard problem is fucken mastic problem issue
Homeowner misused red guard should be the title, the stuff is awesome, used it for many years on many projects never had a single call back or problem with the stuff it's essential that it's fully cured before you lay tile on it and actually when done right it forms a very tough thick layer.
I'm a complete amateur/home owner and what I got out of this video was: Shower lasted 20 years; don't use mastic in the shower or any wet area; and RedGuard did it's job as advertised saved the lumber. I think MAYBE this video is slightly mistitled. Thanks for your time and efforts though!
It didn't last 20 years though, a curb that looks like that has been rotting for a decade.
I'd say he did it correct and you can use mastic on walls..I think the guy sold him premixed thinset and that doesn't work 🙂 I can't believe your using flex seal..it will never work..
Not sure if you saw the video. But RedGuard did not save the lumber 🪵 in that curb.
@@mathusvaiaoga9787
Redgards instructions clearly state to not use mastic.
I've been watching you for a while, I've never seen a step-by-step video of your tile Job , Can you make a full job video ? step by step
Most of his vids are all about the steps/preparation before actual tiling.
The good preparation before hand makes the tiling child's play
It would help to know What/how he should have waterproofed correctly.
Go back and check some of his older videos. There are some about the actual tile setting.
I did watch everything
Flex seal failed when used in stock tank pools, possibly application errors or chemicals contributed to the failures but either way I wouldn’t use in in my shower. Red guard has proven to be a good product when applied correctly
I used flex seal in an outdoor fountain. It works for a while, and then eventually bubbles up. Of course, it's outdoors and exposed to the sun, so I don't know how it would hold up under tile, but I don't trust it.
I dont see nothing wrong with Red guard. Thousands have used it and it works. Key thing is properly used. There is a tile channel out there, he would of been smashing the person that installed it. Saying how stupid and all that. But you Coach didnt do that, you even pointed out some good things they did. Being humble, shows your confidence in your skills. Awesome Job Isaac!
i think red guard is ok for tub wall surrounds. but for shower its very iffy
@@conradcoolerfiend Wrong. It is completely fine in a shower. Maybe you didn't catch the part this is a 20 year old shower with MASTIC?
@@dustrod9244 relax dude, I don’t know showers that well I’m just here learning. Does the mastic impact the red guard?
Great comment, especially the last three sentences. It is very refreshing learning from someone with these qualities. Cheers
@@marcleblanc7021 he wasn't talking shit "marc Leblanc"
Just discovered you and your videos are absolutely superb. I’m a Chicago remodeler, former professional basement remodeler, now doing bathrooms and remodeling and updating older basements and homes.
If I could go back 15 years and watch your videos as we did bathrooms in almost every basement. Just imagine. what I could have learned from you.
Your an excellent speaker and describe each step and showing failures is so much more important than just a final beautiful bathroom. What a great learning video. I will continue to watch you and look forward to learning and watching.
Thank you!
Dave, Chicago
Thanks Dave! I appreciate the encouragement :)
@@TileCoachyou gonna ignore the fact of the drain being the wrong location and style? How you pitch that “amazing drain cut?”
Finally a flex seal shower video. We will need a five year review!
The hollow sound when you started on the curb, no mistaking that sound!
I worked 40 years on elevators in many buildings that were over a hundred years old. Water, heat and uv light degrade almost everything. A wall, floor and ceiling move against each other. Anything that cannot take that movement over time will fail. Wood on concrete that gets wet certain failure over time. Even a copper roof fails in due time. A shower is a tough environment.
I use regard all the time. I've also used laticrete, Mapei, and other competitors paint on water proofing/anti fracture barrier products. I wouldn't consider any of them better then any other others. The biggest difference between them is the different colors.
What I saw you do is what I've been doing for over 13 years now. Cut strips of laticrete antifracture fabric and use it like drywall tape on all the seams of the shower/inside corners. Then you paint a second layer on everything after the fabric is bedded. Have to use a brush for final stroke. If you use a roller it pulls off the fabric on the back of the roller sometimes. That's the secret to a real functional waterproofing layer. I also prefill all my inside corners/seams with sickaflex polyurethane based construction sealant.
The best way IMO is to do a waterproofing layer on the top of your mortar as well. Then it basically seals off the mortar from the water washing out the lime over time and depositing it in the drain or weakening the mortar. The underneath waterproofing layer is just a second layer of protection if the top fails to stop everything. I use a full piece of fabric across the whole pan on top of the mortar along with a paint on water proofing and fabric sealed corners. The only thing that causes even a well made mortar shower pan to fail over time is after about 30 years or more the wet mortar becomes weakened from the lime being washed out. Waterproof the top and you prevent 99% of that.
I feel like you know your shit. Good stuff.
@@efflux Been building showers now professionally for 16 years. Haven't had a single one leak.
I love how the tile barcode stickers transferred over to the mastic perfectly on the curb.
I don’t understand when people don’t take those off before install. Just a pet peeve.
First thing I noticed was that drain cut! 👍👍
@@michaeltaylor3745 right?! 👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻
Redguard in the toilet tank! Lol
it's not so much the Redguard as it is everything else... if done properly, Redguard is still a decent choice, right?
Yes. When done properly
Nice, I love walking into those, makes me feel like a super hero, just keep going and going chaa ching, chaa ching. Love your skills, you got skills. I got skills and plan to use them. God Bless.
Please note the DIY guy also did not change the plumbing. You can't use a tub drain in a shower there's no way for the moisture to wick into the drain. I wish Isaac had demo'd the drain and showed us that element.
20 years on that install is pretty impressive considering. Im often amazed at the random durability of some of the terribly built stuff I've torn apart, definitely seen some crazy head scratching stuff.
Yeah I have tear up some tiles that directly bound to wood sub floor and it took me a lot more effort to remove than tiles over mortar bed imbedded with wire mesh. Some Times it makes me wonder if it really worth it to do all these by the book.
@@jlai3861 Depends on the application, sure mastic adhesives can be harder to remove but they serve a different purpose than mortar beds for example. Substrate materials, framing, environment and specific use all play a role in deciding what install method to use.
Yeah people mix them up all the time, Ive pulled mastic glued tile out of bathrooms and once went to redo a 3x5 entryway once and it was on a felt backed 12" thick mortarbed with mesh in a dry area. Never know with people.
I used red gaurd many times, yet to see it failing.
It all depends on your workmanship, the way you perform.
I have tile stallers that cut corners on a thin set applying on the floor or walls that give them a twice speed scale on installing the tiles so they can make twice more money in one they.
But you and i know those areas that don't have enough thin set on them. They will break once someone steps on them. On at least crack. I have seen tile staller and more.
Daannnng. Team Red Guard is even more upset than the Schluter crew was on those test. Whew 😮💨
I'm actually shocked. If he had used a shower pan, he would still be using that mastic shower! Wow!
I am a contractor and have done dozens of bathrooms. I will only use pans. its not worth the liability. they are also easier to clean.
The real reason of failure here is the mastic. I am actually surprised it lasted 20 years with that stuff.
Since the curb tile was directly applied to a wood surface and the lumber was in direct contact with the concrete there would be tiny voids between the surfaces that would sweat from the steam and temperature changes, and that alone will cause dry rot even if the outside surfaces were water tight. That's why proper vapor barriers and substrates are important, and most of the time home owners don't realize that and that's the first place they cut corners to save a buck. The dry rot on the curb started on the inside way before surface water started getting in. I started as a concrete finisher and carpenter in new construction. When the market tanked I started remodeling and learned how to do drywall, tile, vinyl, and every thing else involved for the most part. So I'm on the job from start to finish, and after 30 years I'm still amazed at some of the shit people do to their own houses trying to save money.
Red Gard works correctly when installed well. Being that this homeowner used tile mastic in a shower and with Red Gard that's a double no no. Not sure this is a Red Gard issue so much as a bad tile installation ... Not to mention Red Gard cannot be used over wood as per their installation guidelines.
Redgard can be used over wood as a crack isolation membrane, but not as a waterproofer. I think the other part of the issue is with mastic it actually causes a chemical reaction to the Redgard, none of the tile manufacturers allow mastic on top of their liquid waterproofers except Tec, oddly.
@@GilBatesLovesyou Ahh yes good call I should have caveated that (crack isolation membrane). Oh interesting I did not know that part, but I do know the tile glue has a very very hard time curing between the membrane and the tile. I'm surprised the tile even stayed and did not slough off the wall.
@@TheBabaYagas Yeah, if you look at Custom or Mapei's TDS for their liquid waterproofers or any mastic, they all say not to use them together. If you want to use mastic on a shower wall you need to go with cement board plus plastic sheet under it, which is actually cheaper and probably would hold up fine *on walls* with 4x4s or something. Just under bigger tiles the mastic would never dry.
Taking any "advice" from Lowe's or Home Depot is a direct track to disaster. Each one of their employees seem to present themself as an expert in their assigned department. Yet most have little knowledge and less experience in their purported area. I could do nothing but laugh one time when I was talked into going to a Lowe's weekend 'seminar' on painting. The eighteen year old gal teaching it had painted her bedroom at her mom's house. That was her total knowledge and experience which was quickly evident in her presentation. Over the years when ordering building materials and or buying them the lack of knowledge of the employees has always been apparent. In most cases that went with a lack of interest in their field which precludes learning about it. If you are looking for leading edge technology in products or applications you can go very wrong relying on the information they will present. Another danger is they will seldom admit they know little about the products other than what they have been told by the various distributors. It always pays to do your own multipoint information sourcing when needing help. Relying on big box store employees who are here one week and gone the next is a recipe for failure. Know what you want, find it in the store, and buy it is using them for what they are.
They usually hire retired electricians for the electrical department. But everyone else is a joke.
@@toomanymarys7355 You are lucky if that is the case in your area. In the PNW I frequent the electrical departments and I have yet to meet anyone who has even a minimal knowledge. Not many qualified electricians I know of will work for the wages paid there. Always seems frustrating when dealing with the box stores.
They dont really have anyone that old because like always is all about money . They rather pay these young guys less yet I dont see or hear them being forced to try to learn some of the trade but do see these young guys on the phone a lot no matter the race . And in a few months or years see then in another department and I know they dont know crap like being told the best fitting for plumbing is a shark bite I only use that in case of an emergency . Or been told one coat paint covers over everything but if your a painter you know one coat paint only covers certain colors and the wall has to be properly prepared sanded primed etc but the homeowner will say the guy at home depot said just one coat and I'm good and the wall looks like crap or homeowners being told to use the wrong caulk in wrong applications especially when it comes to bathrooms. I tell homeowners there so much info on the net that to do their research or call someone they trust. Flex o seal is temporary not a solution to a lot of the leaks or other problems I used it a while back until the homeowner had enough to fix part of their roof with the sun and expansion and contraction after a few years the material failed I read their instructions too but thats why they got roofing material
My local home Depot has a guy in plumbing who is definitely knowledgeable. I've been doing residential remodeling for over a decade, so I know who knows and who doesn't know jack. Yes, they have a lot of clueless employees but some are very experienced. There are a lot of stores who focuss on one trade and those places actually hire experienced employees. However, some of those guys are real ass holes. They've been doing plumbing, or electrical or flooring for so long that they really don't want to deal with questions.
Can’t wait to see the flexseal video!
Some balls using it on an actual job. Excited to see this tho!
I don’t ordinarily put my notifications on for really anyone I’m subscribed to, but I gotta see the rebuild using flex seal!! 😂 Can’t wait! 👏👏👏
How would the Flex seal be any different from the RedGaurd after 20 years? Would it not get brittle and crack all the same? I would think PVC liner would still be the safer choice...but I'm no expert so I'm genuinely curious.
Why wasn’t there a rubber pan liner used
So, what exactly made the shower fail? Is it because of the mastic and failure to seal the grout?
That is one of the biggest myths in the tile business. Most sealers are designed to "form an invisible barrier that is resistant to moisture and stains while allowing vapor to escape". All cement based grouts will allow water migration over time.
Be nice if Isaac chimes in here, but my take is the structure was: subfloor cement, redgard, preslope cement, redgard, mastic, tile. The mastic failed allowing the tiles to move, and the top layer of redgard failed in at least some capacity (maybe punctured by tile movement?). Water saturated the preslope concrete but was held back by the bottom layer of redgard. The preslope was touching the wood curb and it rotted away. So the end result was mold and mildew, flexing curb, and water squeezing out between tiles, but the water was ultimately contained within the shower and did not cause failures in the studs (also individually redgarded) nor the surroundings. Pretty close call. Also demonstrates the "moisture sandwich" which is an argument against applying liquid water proofing over sheet membranes, which Isaac does quite often. This sandwich likely saved the structure in my opinion.
I demo'd a shower a couple years ago that used a bucket of premixed thinset without reading the instructions. It can't be used in wet environments. It just like the buckets of Drywall mud vs bags of 20/45/90 easy sand. Premixed mediums will reabsorb water after drying and return to a paste, because they depend on water evaporation to bond. Even if the instructions say you can use on a shower wall... don't.
Problem could of stemmed all from the curb wood sitting directly on the slab rotting causing the redguard to break
Bro, the redgard patched the toilet. Thats all I needed to see 😅
Note to self for my upcoming shower reno... redgard the studs!
It lasted 20 years? That's an incredible achievement for the homeowner!
I will never use Redguard or wood in my curbs. I’ve torn out way too many showers that failed because of those things.
Hey whats up again bro, just wanted to let you know my dad and I ,ripped out his old fiber glass unibody shower,and we’re putting a tile walk in shower. We keep referring to your videos… it’s helped us a whole lot, 🙏 thanks
Isaac, you didn't mention anything about the preslope and whether there were weep holes at the drain so the water under the tiles could drain out eventually. Did a lack of weep holes contribute to all that water sitting under the floor tiles? Standing water like that would wreck just about any shower installation over time. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Agree. I wanted to know how the drain was integrated into the overall waterproofing envelope. Because it didn't look like it was... like at all (thus the water squishing up when he stepped on the tiles). He can redgaurd the slope and all he wants, but how does the regaurd interface with the drain? Seemed like the only means for water to enter that drain was from the face of the tile, and any water than made it through the grout would just pool there until it could evaporate back through the grout or weep through breakages in the redgaurd. It seems like had there been proper drain integration and a weeping mechanism, even the mastic wouldn't have been a problem, much less the redgaurd.
@@grahamd.8713 Thank God somebody gets it! I think the mastic still would be a problem but much less so. The water should either flow through a morter bed or thin set hit the waterproofing and be drained through the weep holes in the drain. This has to be a two piece drain that you can set the elevation on to tile height. In the video it looks like the only provision for water to get out is at tile level , but can't be sure. If your a home owner do you're do diligence and then some before you waterproof a shower, It is not as straight forward as it may look.
I was called to fix the similar problem. There was a lot of water under the tiles. The rubber membrane was installed but there was no preslop. All the water that got through the tiles and mortar bed just stayed down there on the horizontally installed rubber membrane. Instead of going down to the drain using the preslop angle.
I cannot for the life of me understand why any of your videos would ever get a thumbs down. Your videos have been extremely valuable to me in my projects. Your attitude as a teacher and encourager is so refreshing! Thank you!
This one gets a thumbs down for the misleading title. It's the mastic not the redguard that failed.
17 year professional and never had one call back ever. Every shower i have built has 2 coats of redguard over the hardiboard and I never put hardi board in any saturation zone.
One thing a lot of people don't know is mastic isn't compatible with most liquid waterproofers, as the mastic chemically messes with the liquid waterproofing layer. The only manufacturer that allows their own mastic and liquid waterproofer together is actually Tec, none of the rest do. If you wanted to use mastic on a shower/tub surround wall you'd need to use a plastic sheet behind cement board and that's it, anything else and you get no warranty.
absolutely not true mastic is compatible with nearly all liquid waterproofing membranes around the world, dont know where you got this idea from lol
Pre-pitch and shower pan with mud bed is sooooo important!
you're saving my life! My shower looked JUST LIKE THIS. I'm taking it down to the studs, and was worried about the pan, not now ! Thanks sooooo much. Let you know how it turns out.😊
I love that stuff. I use it as my insurance. Whe. Applied correctly it's a beast! Never failed a flood test on me.
Don’t take tile advice from Home Depot!
Usually, the guy from Home Depot got fired from a real job.
Don’t take any advice from Home Depot
If the guy didn't use mastic and properly redguarded the curb, which obviously it wasn't, wasn't a bad recommendation, just poor execution
Hi isaac. I have been eyeballing that dewalt roto hammer. How is it? How does it stack up against the corded versions of the same size?
Just ok. Good for small stuff.
A true test would be to build it back exactly like it was done before, with the mastic, except use Flex-seal as the waterproofing system. If it lasts 20 years, I’d really be surprised.
That shower has been there 20 years?! Good enough for me lol.
I used redgard on my remodel. No problems so far. I did let it dry and cure for about a week until the smell dissipated.
I did this mistake once. I put a new tile floor in a shower over an existing tile floor with mastic and it did t work. I had to pull it up and redo it with thin set. Shower didn't leak since it was already waterproof before I started, but it was a lesson learned. Just completed another shower this month. No mastic in the floor!
This video raises a lot of questions.
Did the Redgard fail or was it not applied properly? Are Redgard, Mastic compatible or did the Mastic have a deleterious effect on the Redgard. Was water pooling under the tiles due to improper shower pan design or were the weep holes blocked?
oh boy,. I'm now more worried than ever. We have a 2nd story shower that is tile. it's got issues...yeah...issues. We stopped using it when we found water damage downstairs.
So...I guess tear it out and hire someone to put a new shower in. But after reading comments and watching these videos, I have no idea who to trust. Hate to make a closet out of a needed shower, but at this point, not sure what to do or who to trust.
Finding someone good is a real challenge, especially because you often won't know if an install failed for a year or more. Maybe ask some questions about their waterproofing process to get an idea if they know what they're doing. Also, don't rule out ornery people if they will do a good job. No good answer though.
Yeah, I don't think it's fair to blame that failure on Redgard.
I agree. However, id never rely on just fibatape and redgaurd on my curbs. Red gaurd does lose its waterproofing ability over time. I always use a sheet membrane plus a roll on waterproofing on shower pan, curbs, benches and niche sills. And in some other circumstances as well.
It seems the regard is the only thing that saved the shower. If was done with thin set may have lasted another 10 years.
If the floor is concrete does it not require a pan liner ? Curious, also I really appreciate your videos,👍👍
And the pan liner should go up the walls at least 6 inches and over the curb, fastened on the outside of the curb near the floor. I can see why the curb’s wood rotted
My roofer and his roofing friends swear by the stuff. And I can't think of anything unforgiving as rooftops. Can't wait to see your video.
Take them fishing 50 miles off the coast and tell them you repaired a hole with flex seal under the boat last week, see what their reaction looks like Lol
20 years? Lasted alright to be fair
If thinset was used , this would have lasted untill outdated.
Mastic can't be used anywhere where there will be water is what I was taught I've really only used it for wall tile or backslash
Funny I used Red Guard on a few showers for 20 years now everything seems fine.
The problem is the mastic not the redgaurd.
How long should tiled showers last before the material wear out and leads to leaks?
Properly installed:: A tiled shower should last the lifetime of the home. Reguard isn't difficult to use,, it just takes a long time to apply. Reinforcing tape, used in corners and seams,, 2 thick coats on vertical surfaces,, 3 thick coats on flat surfaces. Last coat should be slightly "combed/notched troweled for thinset grip,, AND each coat needs about 24hours to cure (not dry, CURE). So, You can see why this product is not popular with contractors. Modern felt/cloth membranes install and dry in 1 day.
Then there is "sealing".. Cement based grouts need 2 to 3 days to CURE,, before sealing. Contractors don't like coming back to job sites. So they'll tell ya it's not necessary,, or might use a modern waterproof grouts , that are fine for dry areas,, but not wet areas. "Waterproofing" is what goes under the tile.. "Sealing" is a topical application. Sealers can last for decades,, before needing to be re-coated.
@@gcrady alright.. thank you.
@@gcrady exactly!
The bottom plate framing should be pressure treated lumber on a slab. That is probably why it is wet and still solid. looks like the Redgard failed due to the installer. Too thick of individual coats? Should have still made a solid membrane under the mastic.
For someone to make a shower last for 20 years I’m sure he knows what he doing
Great video looking forward to the next one.
Just curious. How long do you expect a "Flex Seal" shower to last before failure?
Have you tried a product called “Semco Liquid Membrane”? They advertise it can be used to waterproof a shower.
Hi Isaac.... Considering the fact that the user seemingly disregard REDGUARD'S INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS the product did okay. As you have shown in your videos their are "professional tilers" who are NON-COMPOS-MENTIS and their work FAILS immediately. So given that fact and the lack of knowledge of the user in this case the product after being misused did okay
I have used it under my sink cabinet area, dishwasher area.. even tested the dishwasher area before installation of the new dishwasher. No leaks drips or runs... Even crawled under house and verified... (Honestly had other plumbing to do too🤔) Anyway the subfloor etc looked fine.
You "Best Red Guard Video" is a good training aid... EBW USN Ret
At 19:45 I was about to pull the trigger until you said that at the end. Thnx man 😢
I did it flex seal on my shower .watching your is really helpful
I see a lot of comments about mastic contributing to water failure. You should build the shower where you can fully use it without water loss without a single tile or any type of masonry. Mastic made the tile adhesion fail, but the structure was rotted from an ill planned waterproofing. Tile,grout,thin set does not stop water.
Wow! That curb is incredible!
I’m confused. Why would you use red guard or flexseal or any other liquid waterproofing in the pan when you can just use a 40 mil panliner?
Redgaurd workd better then expected. It failed cuz they forgot a showerpan..u can say the new kurdi system with styrofoam replaces a rubber shower pan but I'm not buying it. I'd always sell to a costomer hard backer or go board and a good old fashion shower pan
Wait, wait. I have to question something. You have a great video here, and I like your speed and thorough approach. However, the whole reason this shower failed is because the owner used the wrong product. Is Flex Seal any more tried and true now than mastic was then? Does anyone know the longevity of Flex Seal over 20 years in a shower application? It seems you might be repeating the same type of mistake the owner did, unless enough is known about the Flex Seal.
Can I red guard this wood curb wrap in that rubber sheet around the curb ? To prevent the red guard from failing over time
I'm looking forward to the Flex Seal video.
I GOT SO STOKED WHEN I SAW THE FLEX SEAL HAT HAHAHA THATS GOING TO BE SO AWESOME.
I was always told mastic was for counter backsplashes, and at least a foot higher in the shower or tub enclosures for small form tiles .and I think you're pretty lucky that curve was drier looking compared to some that I've seen that have been like a gray mush.. it's like you almost want to throw your tools away after you scraped it out with no end to the smell. Lol ..looked like even though it lasted 20 years it was doomed from the start because the flooring didn't flow to the drain, much less the other problems.. lol love these videos always like seeing other craftsman doing there thing..
The funny thing is I was at home depot and saw an older couple in the check out with 1 gallon of redgurd and a big tub of mastic. I wanted to say something but, didn't want to make a sceen in the check out.
Those poor souls. Let’s hope they just want to bullet proof their kitchen backsplash lol
@@Gina-Montana I guess if it lasts 20 years , that will get them to 87 . I am sure that will work out just fine.
That's where he is now, lol.
I looked into redgard & it did not say anywhere on data sheet that it crystalizes in a masonary surface, so im skeptical on what is best for me. That is what is suggested to me befofe apply a rubber, or some cheaper elastomeric coatings.
Using mastic was a bad idea. But the real problem was lack of maintaining the grout over the years.
Honestly 20yrs for a DIY is pretty darn good. Im curious as to why the curb failed.
I think the shower pan is the only way to go. Forget shluter or redgard or any waterproof membrane. All the new technology just doesn’t make it
What up brother, loving the content your providing 👍🏽
Thank you!
Thanks for the video and the laugh from the toilet tank repair. The tile setters used this product on the outside porches where we are working. First rain and there is already water under the tile. What should the application of outdoor ceramic tile be? it is a balcony osb substrate? Thanks
There must be a story behind why the owner will allow flexseal as the sole waterproofing. Just adventurous dude, or a deep discount, or an amazing warranty?
Isaac do have an all time favorite waterproofing that you must have for all jobs
So it didnt fail due to the red garden, it failed due to not using proper thinset over the redgard for the tile to adhere to?
Coach how do you justify testing out flex seal in someone's bathroom thats unknown how well it works? Is it because you're doing it for free?
If this shower is 20 years old, when did the failure actually occur?
13:30 The RedGard actually saved this shower.
He should of mentioned wrong drain was used. You should use a drain specific to a tile pan. you need the weep holes to constantly allow moisture to escape. That shower lasted 20 years is nothing short of a miracle.
Where is the preslope? Wrong thinset has been used as well. Red guard is the best out there, used it for years.
Have you ever seen someone use play sand under the vinyl shower pan liner for shifting
The problem wasn't the red guard, it was the mastic. I always use a polymer fortified thin set when doing showers.
Used the flex seal spray on exterior masonry and it shrunk and pulled away from the surface causing water intrusion. Not satisfied with flexseal at all.