Thanks for not deleting the video re"guard"less of the comments. There's always something to learn. Personally, I've used the product many times, rolling or painting it on, and it's done a fine job. Thanks for taking the time to produce and post this video.
I'm a painter and you cannot apply any coating that thick and expect it to dry correctly. The corners will take forever to dry because moisture gets trapped under the surface that has already dried, so it has to dry through absorbing into the surface that that you applied it to. And it will also shrink as it dries. .
The problem is two fold. You put it on way to thick, and then recoated before it was dry. What happens is the outside of the coating shrinks as it dries, but underneath it is not dried. So what happens is it will crack due to the drying process. I prefer two coats using a large 3/4inch hot dog roller. It is always better to use multiple thin coats as opposed to a thick coat. This is true with almost all paints and topical coatings. I hope this is helpful. PS I will be using red guard next week again. It is a fantastic product, and does its job when applied correctly.
@Rachel Jackson Thanks! I really wasn't expecting anyone to reply hahaha I actually just finished sanding the walls and filled in areas that had deep cracking with laticrete thinset. I wiped the dust off then brushed Redguard on areas that had hairline cracks with a thin coat and so far it looks like it has covered well! Some areas have dried already and it looks like the cracks have not come through again. I'm gonna finish off with a second thin coat and maybe even a third to be on the safe side 😁
Good to see lots of feedback here. Even though this test failed it’s just as valuable as someone who shows it successfully being applied. We all know people that consistently fail to read or follow instructions or believe their way is always better. Some people need to see a failure before they believe it. This was a great example to show those types how it fails when not applied properly. Just as in life we often learn more from our mistakes than successes. Humble and honest guys. Great video.
I use redgaurd on every shower but use a brush! Never had this problem. I’m doing the card board box with redgaurd test right now going on a week and no leaks. Great product!
@@mikecoolcheeseharry5518 This guys are NOT pros, they are just Bros, lol. I watched this video thinking are these guys joking? Wow, epic fail. This is why I no longer hire "Pros" and instead just do the job myself correct the first time.
So here's the thing it's longevity and percentage based for warranty that means the company's wants a 99% success rate over the warranty period if apply according to directions and that means a thick coating cus the company doesn't want to have to pay for missed pin holes
I don't think that is a very fair test of red guard. It is supposed to be painted on, and recoated 1 or two times. Putting it on that thick compromises the cure process causing the cracking because it simply isn't made to be put on that thick like it was thinset or something!!! Had you simply painted on three coats with adequate drying time between, you surely would have got different results. StarrTile did a test with red guard on cardboard and it held water for three days!
@@TileCoach if its 80 sqft per gallon coverage then half coat would be 160 sqft per gallon so you put it on 4 times to thick per coat since you thought its 40 sqft per gallon... you guys are so special... same as your 1000 mm in an inch...
I have put thin layer of Red Guard on Custom Speed Set and got the same reaction. Its not about how thin or thick you put it on, it appears that Red Guard reacts really bad with certain mortars. Take the Custom Prolite for instance, I have never had an issue with applying Red Guard on Prolite or directly on the Schluter membrane
I've been using red guard for years wih never an issue and never a call back. Use alkali resistant, self sticking mesh in the corners and seems. Then use a throw away brush and start with a thin coat working it into the substrate. It will be dry in 20 minutes. Then brush a slightly thicker coat on the seams and corners and roll the rest with a throw away 6 inch roller. You can dip it right into the bucket. That will dry in less than an hour. Then repeat with one more coat slightly thicker than the second. I don't use it as a pan liner. I use a vinyl liner on a wood pre-slope, then mud over, then red guard the mud and walls. It glues the corners so you don't need grout caulk. The standard grout in the corners does not crack.
It’s almost as if you wanted it to fail...3 evenly rolled coats, change directions perpendicular each time. One coat AM, one lunch, one PM. Tile next day. Never fails...
To Weldon, I have a question. I'm getting ready to apply two coats of the red guard. I've heard that I have to get all the thinset and tile laid with in 72 hours. What's the best thing to do.... I've heard the tile will not stick if I wait longer than 72 hours.
@@howardlaney1837 The product was not installed properly. Went on too thick. We use this all the time and have never had a leak. I paint it on with a brush or roller 2 to 3 times and it works great. Check out other videos of installs and you will see its a good product.
@@chadmckillop398 I just used it on a shower the other day and everything is good, cut my edges with a brush the rest with a roller, waited until the first coat was dry and proceeded again. Sticking like a charm.
Wow so many haters, you read the directions and followed them, then it failed , then respectfully asked for advice, Total respect for you guys... love the videos. I also a nor cal guy. BTW, those cracks are from shrinking, either the base material shrank or the top material was too thick and shrank. But you def helped me , I will definitely do a test before I "lay it on",
I have used Redguard many times, and other similar products as well, and will continue to use them. I tried the trowel method once and quickly decided I would never do that again, and I actually wondered why they would even print that on the label? Having many relatives with many decades of experience in painting (actually centuries of experience if you add all of their years together) I have always known the best method to get a thick coating, is multiple thin coats. And with some extras thrown in for different purposes, it is essentially just latex paint. You can treat it basically like latex paint. I used to live in the desert and never had an issue with getting any of these products to dry. In fact most of the time , by the time I got all the way around a shower applying a coat, it was already dry where I started. Then I moved to the land of the sweaty air, and the first shower I did, I watched and waited all afternoon and the first coat didn't dry. I returned the following day and parts of it still were not dry ( corners and anywhere it was a little thicker ) . The humidity here is somewhere around a thousand percent or something like that. Blinking and breathing are strenuous enough to make you sweat in the summertime! I got a fan and with that it dried pretty quickly, and the next coat dried pretty quickly and evenly. The second coat always dries slower because it can only evaporate, where the substrate (walls or floor) will soak up much of the moisture from the first coat. Yes it is a time consuming process, but I have found it to be reliable. Also I am not in the high volume, production end of the spectrum. I am old. I hurrrt. Emphasis on huurrrttt! I don't want to run anymore Thank you for asking "what did we do wrong?" Most people will never do that. They will just say "yeah I tried that once and it was garbage", and that's the end of it. And if we're being honest, you didn't actually do anything wrong. You read the directions right off of their own label. Which I personally feel are misleading...
I enjoyed your content... I've been using redguard for about 10yrs now, I first used it on my own shower and I sprayed it on with my paint sprayer... I did 3 coats of redguard with no cracking of the sort... I know spraying wasn't recommended but I said what the hell it was my house lol... I did the flood test for over a week with no problems at all... That's when I had time to go back to do my tile. I've been under my house a few time and my bathroom floor is dry as a bone... I think the notched trowel isn't the best way to apply the redguard
Never had that happen to me, and I’ve used a ton of red guard...although we don’t use it anymore due to time constraints. We have found that the Kerdi or laticrete sheet or board works a lot better and is quicker to get started on actually making money (laying tile)
It's a whole lot easier using a roller and paint brush for the corners. I used this in all my showers, works great, hasn't leaked as far as I know. Great videos guys.
I have used this material on several shower project’s over the last seven years as a retired contractor. I have applied it over cement board and the relatively new poly/styrene materials. The last two projects I also used it on the shower slope on top of one inch base cement. I did all corners with normal joint tape and unsanded joint material. in some cases at the bottom the mesh cloth.In my case , I used cheap four inch foam rollers to apply the material on walls and floors rolling each coat out. Overall, I applied five coats over three days as I worked in other areas of the project. When finished, you have a thickness of about one business card. First and second coats, be sure to work into voids and bubble areas. Next three are just to build the membrane thickness. Works for me!!
Hi Isaac, I hardly use REDGUARD , my weapon of choice is HYDROBARRIERE from Laticrete - blue stuff. However each of those products acts the same way and works similar. Over the years I observed same situation - cracking and pealing off when I accidentally dropped membrane somewhere on floor and left to dry (thick bubble) or filing gaps larger than 3/16" - also to thick coat! This is why it is essential to combine any waterproofing topical membrane with fiberglass mesh tape - especially where boards meets, corners , built-in niches etc.. This areas always have bigger gaps and membrane will simply crack if layer of membrane is to thick ( greater than 1/8 -3/16") . If you chose to use liquid membrane you have to let one thin layer dry before applying second coat, and use of fiberglass mesh ( not the type that you used around drain on this video, but actual fiberglass ) in every corner is a must. In one of my recent videos I am showing exact same application to yours ( on shower pan and curb) , but combined with fiberglass mesh tape with exceptional results, maybe you saw that video..? Any way, I have been using topical membrane and traditional pan liner ever since - I never experienced any leaks or issues when done correctly... You aske about opinion - I gave you my honest opinion in this subject. Cheers - Michael P.s. I also observed that more liquidly membranes has tendency to crack easier when drying - this is why I am preferring Laticrete product because consictency is way thicker than redguard - easier to apply on walls, less messy and not cracking as much as red stuff....
Isaac, my thoughts are, your video confirmed for me what the thumbnail already told me- which is the coat was TOO thick. I often teach my young apprentices that a thinned down coat will always adhere better than a thick coat. We can easily test this hypothesis by putting a thick drop of paint on any surface, then right next to it apply a very light thinned down smear and really rub it in. Come back in a few days and the thick droplet can easily be peeled up with your fingernail, while the super thinned down coat will need sand paper or mechanical process to remove. Hope that helps and good luck in your future projects! really enjoy the informative videos :)
Can't remember how many showers we've done after coating with RedGuard. We always use a 4 inch brush, apply like painting a wall. About 2 hours it's completly red and dry Then apply 1 or 2 more coats as needed. We set fans on it to speed up the drying. Love this stuff, works great!!
There are two reason why I think your test fail: One; it is way too thick, first coat should be very thin almost transparent. Second; you didn't apply enough pressure when flattening the ridges look at (6:40 on) he didn't apply enough pressure at all to make sure it adhere to the cement board, you suppose to press the product down actually hear scraping sound to make sure the product is adhering (that's why most people prefer rolling it on). Redo your test use a roller apply 3 very thin coat you will see a big difference. There is a lot of products out there where people think is no good but it's actually user error.
Thank God for this comment form cause I was having the same problem with cracking on my thin set it covered the walls and benches fine but not the floor I pulled up the red guard from the floor I'm going to re apply it with thinner passes I will let you know how it goes
Good Lord, that dude with the trowel acted like he was icing a cake! And, yes, "tilecoach", when you apply it with a roller, the roller is supposed to "ROLL" the redguard on like paint! If the roller isn't rolling, you are again putting it on too thick!! Think of it like painting something, several thin coats are better than one thick coat!
Why are people hating on this video? He literally said he doesnt have much experience with it and he ask the comments to tell him what he did wrong and everyone is hating on him.
All liquid applied barriers we do a water cut primer coat. With a roller and brush. Will be ready for first coat within an hour. Full rolled second coat takes about 4 hours to dry. We put a box fan on it. Final coat by end of day and ready to go in the morning. All corners need to be taped. Never had an adhesion issue crack or bubble. We have used red guard , laticrete and Mapai , I use them for walls only though. We do regular deck mud / liner pans. But we do membrane about 6” onto the pan.
I use it on Kerdi joints only. Bullet proof installation, given their original warranty of no leaks with unmodified thinset to overlaps and Kerdiband. Getting the tile right is a whole 'nuther story. Waterproofing of the shower area is pretty basic these days. Thanks for taking the time to make this. Well worth checking out. You do good work.
It’s like hydro ban. Surface must be super clean no dust. Roller works better, 3coats. It seam like your first coat was a little bit thick. I roll it then smooth out with trowel.fan helps also.
watched your video and while I do love redgard and use it in many areas I never use it as a pan liner. Laticrete is the product of choice for pan liner where a paint on is needed. By the way my background is that I have been working in the tile industry since 1993. Redgard is great to use over non critical areas. when going over any masonry it is vital to remove all dust via sponge and dry before application. also multiple thin layers have never cracked out for me. my main use is as a reinforcing water proofing over hardie backer board around the step of showers and in the 90 degree joints. Again in those areas it is not needed but I used as and additional degree by choice. As to why yours cracked out, one thought is that if there was any dust the redgard would not bond to the surface so as it drys it contracts causing cracks. Any way I am glad to see other people testing products. Keep moving forward it is how we build quality in our craft and it shows we care about what we do and who we serve after all each customer is our boss.
Roll it on. Roll it on. It was too thick. When rolling it make sure you work it in. The roller is supposed to roll. Apply two coats minimum. Three coats maximum. I have completed at least 100 plus projects with it and never had a problem. Put a air circulator in the room with it and you can finish two coats in one day. Easy Peasy.
I’m 3 years late but hope this helps someone. What we do is apply a primer over the dry pack with a mixture of red gard and water mixed. We roll it or brush it depending on size of the area. That primer is absorbed into the dry pack and creates a coat in which the red gard full strength bonds to it perfectly and evenly. The primer drys very quick and if we’re in a hurry we use a fan to dry it faster and can apply up to 3 coats not including the primer in one day when doing commercial restrooms or wet areas . Water test can happen 1 or 2 days later depending how dry it is. Been doing it this way since we started using red gard and haven’t had a fail yet. We also use mesh or fabric for the base and pie cut all drains . Local 4 so cal out!👊🏽
Just finished using RedGard in 100 sq. ft. shower. Used PROVA Joint Waterproofing Strip on all corners and seams. Rolled on 2 gallons of RedGard over Hardi backerboard with 3/4 in. nap roller. Applied three thin coats in different directions each time. I believe multiple thin coats are key and giving each coat plenty of time to cure between applications, (I had the time), because after letting it thoroughly dry you can see whether you have enough coverage. Again, because I had the time, I much preferred this method because of the cost savings over Kerdi and I think it turned out great
I agree with a few other comments that if it is applied in thin coats it works fine, but if it reads that it can be troweled on then you should be able to do it, but your right it takes to long, we always let each coat dry over night and never had any problems....that we know of.
i enjoyed this review of red guard application. I believe you followed the application instructions correctly as as they were labeled on the product.The problem is in the way you were directed as per the labeling . You put it on too thick . Using a trowel dont work for me either. As the red guard dries it shrinks. That's why you got the cracking and pinholes. i prefer to use re-enforcing fabric in corners and any change of plane .2-3 coats with a roller and proper dry time in between coat works well. if you dont have a roller a brush will do. throw them away when you are done.
Man, you guys are catching all kinds of hell for this test! Keep your videos coming! I love learning different ways to do things. Don't listen to the haters. Thanks for all the info!
Great video! I will say I have used liquid membranes for ten years and never had a problem. I even started deleting the pan liner seven years ago and still no problems. I use tec and latacrete products for my showers. I have found that rolling the membrane is much better. You have to have a prime coat first though. I roll three coats on the pan then caulk the edges before the third coat. I'm not a big fan of sheet membranes because one air pocket on the edge will render it useless. Showers are not meant to go in fast. The faster you do it the more mistakes you can make. Just my opinion. I have never been a custom fan so these results don't surprise me.
Agreed, 100%. Ive been a huge fan of Mapelastic HPG, personally, and have NEVER had a failure. Just to note, RG is essentially an acrylic paint and both shrinkback and priming (as noted by most commenters) are inevitable flaws that Custom tries not to highlight. HPG is more of a synthetic rubber (with solvents to prevent polymerization until cure) but it's still susceptible to shrinkback if applied too thick (>40mil). With Meipei, I can achieve three thin layers (flat trowel only) in one application at the end of prep day, and be ready for tile by morning.
Thanks for this demo , my take ,,,, yes you waist 2 days minimum with this stuff thats why I do it at the end of the day let it dry over night and the next day 1more coat first thing in the morning with fan on and at the end of the day one more coat so its 3 coats all together, and I use a brush 4 inch. Now if for any reason there is still moister in the pan or any other corner redgard will crack and take its time to dry and then when its fully dry you will be able to peel it of real easy in those places , THAT SHOULD NOT HAPPEN. But I have learned to work with it for many years and thank God no problems ever , not that it can't happen but thats why I take my time to insure 100 % . This is my take and I respect others opinion on this product and others ,,,, again thanks for all theses great videos best regards.
Dude I'm a HUGE fan of your videos, but watching this is painful. Bottom line red guard is a good product. Roll it on lightly, let dry completely repeat a second time. You guys made a great product look like a joke and that's not cool. You don't like red guard don't use it. This is like watching a very poorly done bias commercial.
Rude aren’t you? He literally read the directions out loud and followed them accordingly. Then admitted he’s never used the product before, and humbly asked for advice and asked if anyone knew what he did wrong. Then here, you and others, come telling him he made the product look like a joke? Saying don’t like it, don’t use it? Your comment, assuming he was hoping the product would fail is the real joke
Mix and spray. 3 or 4 even, thin coats. Cover an entire shower in minutes, cleanup a breeze. Also drys much faster than rolling. If going on floor, the only place I'll goop it up is around the flange prior to install, then I'll smooth the excess and cover the floor working my way from the flange to walls/threshold. Otherwise it's awesome that you guys experiment in house, testing the limits (and beyond) of some products. I'm sure you've already saved someone from making the same mistake.
I think these guys were testing this product as professionals with the mindset of being able to make money. Regardless if it was t dried long enough it already failed in that respect. Good honest video. Just have to see it for what it is. I am about to use redguard in a cabin build I think its the right product for this particular job.
I use regard as my primary waterproofing method. It looks like the first coat was too thick generally only get to about 30 mil after 3 coats. I do wait for it to turn completely red with zero light spots or pink showing. I have never had the process take 5 days. I generally start with a very light bonding or priming coat then 2 to 3 coats on top of that. I live in Oregon and getting a hold of sheet membrane actually isn't all that convenient and only a handful of supliers Cary them and never a full lineup so I'm stuck ordering and waiting. I have been use regard and other topical membranes for almost ten years and just know it so I stick with it. I'm not a hater and don't belive any one method is the only or right way. Keep up the good work
What water proofing do you use for your wall paneling? The experience I have with red guard is I apply the red guard with 1/2” nap rollers and I do 2 coats on walls and 3 coats on all corners and curb and joints. I think it cracked because it was to thick as well.
How does everyone here know their showers didnt fail?? I have done a shower with zero waterproofing, does not leak or smell of mold. I did it wrong and wouldnt do it again. But nothing is wrong that I can tell and it's been 5 years. I'm not about to tear it out to see if it "failed". Other than that....good testing my man!
@@smash72cutlass30 I have a mortar bed, liner and preslope. It will take a few more years I'm afraid then. Plus rain shower head...not much direct water hitting walls, just the humidity
I have only used redgard in one shower installation and it did not fail at all, Applied with roller and brush, worked well. Just redid my own shower and I used a membrane roll system. Maybe others with more redgard experience can chime in. MastertileGA has been using redgard and other topical membranes for years with no issues.
When it comes to warranties I think we are on our own. These corps design their warranties to not pay so it is my responsibility to find products and methods that I trust because in the end failure is on me. So with that in mind I'd go with 4:1 sealer coat and two thin top coats completely dried between applications. Going back to your Kerdi tests and forgetting about manufacturer warranties, I'd be curious if Red Guard over the Kerdi bands would seal those corners. Thank you for your videos, I'm sure they are a lot of work but they are awesome.
Put on too thick. As a painter I can tell by how the surface dried. So it didn’t cure. Also did you allow spec time between applications/coats? If not curing problems will ensue. I’d definitely recommend brushing a pan and rolling for walls. At any rate, great video/experiment.
The surface area needs to be cleaned with water and sponge first. The prime coat 4 to 1 water to redguard is necessary for bonding. Coat is too thick as well.
I had the same experience. I used the v-knotched trowel as the instructions and applied according to the instructions. The membrane ended up cracking open all over the place. I decided to get rid of it and use a different product. I must have done something wrong too. It seems like the trowel option doesn't work but for the roller option so many people in the comments are ok with their experience.
I applied it to cdx board for my aquaponics sprout shelves and I rolled it on. So far its holding up really well. I did not follow the instructions initially because my forman at the time told me to roll it on. I got say I'm glad I rolled it on. It dries quicker it adhesive to itself really well. So applying a few or 5 coats will save the hassle. However i live in San Diego so my dry time is pretty quick. 10mins- 30min in perfect conditions. 1hr-12hrs depending on weather and time.
Honestly your substrate was the problem in my experience red guard has cracked on me when you apply it on wet surfaces that are not completely dry yet otherwise it would have dry within a hour with a little fan. I don’t know but your pan look kind of damp.
Why am I excitedly waiting for Starrtile to bring some snark to the comment section of a fucking video about waterproofing a shower? ... I sell fruit for a living. Why am I here? I've seen other people put this on with a paint roller. Never seen it done with a trowel. If I were to bet, I'd say the cracking was caused by the application being way too thick. It doesn't allow for it to cure uniformly. Also someone put redguard over kerdi membrane.
In the beginning there was Tripleflex. Remember? Used to apply same way. Ever use home depots version of Ditramat? Junk. ......and the Custom products are a joke too in my opinion. TEC, Laticrete, Ardex, etc are really the only way to go unless the customer insists then make em sign a waiver ......and u were never there if anybody asks. Then again, why do the job if not confident. Aloha🤙
@@larrygeordan5747 RG is one product that is actually really good quality from HD. Also Custom SLC is just fine. Polyblend is ok. Mapei 4:1 is the bomb only bostik dry pack is better. Laticrete thin sets are amazing but their floor mud sucks. Hydroban is king but aqua d dries before you can even get the damn anti fracture membrane up.
@@juanramirez-lr8fk actually no, it’s a valid method to waterproof. But this video install is done wrong and you definitely Have to know what you’re doing for it to be successful
I was skeptical of redgard at first until I started with my current shop. You put it on too thick bud. I rather use a pan liner but if the job is specd for redgard this if how we do it. I work commercial so I usually have 20+ showers to do at a time so doing it in stages is possible. First we float the floor making sure to cut out the mud a few inches short of the drain creating a drastic slope to the drain body. Don't worry, once everything is dry and we're ready to install the floor we clamp down the drain, put pebbles at the weep holes and drypack the void. This just allows you to bypass a pre-slope while still utilizing the holes if needed. Once the float has dried we tape all inside, outside corners and seams with fiberglass mesh tape and thinset. It's easier and cleaner than trying to tape while applying the redgard and also helps fill gaps the guy left when they hung whatever board they used. Once everything is dry (24 hours) we apply our first coat. Roll large surfaces with a heavy nap roller and use a brush on the corners. We do drains kinda like yours but with a brush. The first coat dries fast. Once it's fully red it's ready for coat 2. Do it in the opposite direction. If you rolled up and down on the first coat, roll left to right on your second. I like to do 3 coats and in good weather I can get all 3 in one day and fill it the next day for a water test. I've had inspectors cancel 3 days in a row so the shower was filled for 4 days without a problem. Like I said I'd rather use different methods but with the right technique this stuff is solid. We've even used it on the exterior of a 7 story building to prevent efflorescence leaching from brown coats. Works like a champ. Try the test again but leave the towel in your bucket lol. Great job by the way it's nice to see someone making videos who actually knows has some sense. I'm sure there are more but you're way out numbered. Keep up what you do for the trade.
I used a whole piece of wonder board 3x5 a long time ago. 3 years to be exact. I still have that piece of board outside 24/7 and use it as a slider door on my back patio.! I’m surprised it has not peeled of after all the rains and sun exposure plus an everyday use as a “door”. I trust this product just apply it as thin as possible multiple coats.
I know this is old but red guard works really well....use a skinny primer coat and 3 regular ones after....just like painting....use a wet sponge to get any dust off surface
I used a rough brush for the corners and a roller for the flat areas. Change directions on the second coat . No problems at all , worked as advertised.
Red guard is what I used on all my showers I do 2 to 3 showers a month for the last 9 years still haven’t have any problems(i know how to use it tho) 50 buks a gallón no bad. Should I change produc??? Hell noooo. Have fun paying all the money for those fancy products.
Hey Isaac, I have to commend you and everyone else who actually puts products on the table to be reviewed. Wish I had the time and know how to make vids. So, good on ya man. The coats went on wayyyyyy to thick my friend. That’s why it cracked. Try a gauge to see how much you’re putting on each application. It also said trowel it on at a 45 angle and smooth it off 90 degrees to your application. I don’t use a trowel but that method wasn’t used. I’m assuming they say to use a 3/16 trowel because any bigger it would just flow between the notches like water and I feel it’s still a bad method. The roller is best. From my experience I have no issue using this product. I’ve never used a trowel before because for the most part it does go everywhere. I have used a roller in a rolling motion and use a brush for the corners. Cut and roll like paint. Once it’s up in the wall I use a gauge to see how many mils are there. Takes normally and hour and a half for the first coat. 2nd coat I use to fill in any voids and I use it generously. And check mils again with my gauge. It’s actually pretty accurate with its recommended coverage. After two coats I’m normally at specs. Once it dries I get about 3.5 hours of tile work in that day. One coat at a time with a brush and roller and check the depth each coat. Never had a fail or issue.
I had the same issue and it was solved by using a fiberglass mesh in between 2 coats of redgard. First I applied redgard on my substrate, then I applied the mesh on top of the fresh redgard covering all seams and corners and I did another coat on top of the mesh and that solved the problem of having cracks and fissures after it dried. I hope this helps.
Try to mix the redgard with water and then brush it on your mortar bed. It will sink in better and stick very well. You can mix it with water and spray it on if you have larger areas to cover. Also if applying to drywall or mud. Prime it first twice with a good paint primer to make sure the redgard stick to the surface. Unfortunately you put it on way to thick.
It cracked because you didn't prime the mortar bed first. You either have to moisten the surface first with water or make a diluted batch of redguard by mixing it with water in order to prime it for good adhesion. It's deep in the instructions. Maybe you can call a handyman to explain it 😉
Yah - he without a doubt bashed the handyman alright!!! I don't get it seeing how he has had more than his share of failures!! How arrogant!! He preaches all of these methods for viewer time, but to this day I couldn't tell you which system he 100% stands behind!! without any endorsement for advertising revenue. I like this guy, and do watch his video's. He makes great video's but not sure I can trust his methods from one application method to the next!! WHICH ONE DOES HE STAND BEHIND AS A "CONTRACTOR"
The true saying is “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but still always better than the master of one” the panda bear is a specialized feeder, take away it’s only food, well, you know Moral of the story…. I’d rather be a versatile handyman than a one trick pony specialized craftsman 😁
I’m a handyman on a job for 4 months now. I did the redgard recently for the first time, a backsplash tile job, it has not cracked, and I did prime. I used a brush to spread, then used a trowel.
As others who have commented...way way way to thick. Failed test perameters. Redo test with best practice. U focused on time vs product viability... For a DIYer, time is the biggest savings vs paying a contractor $30 to $70/hour. my 2 cents, hope it helps
I always thought redgard was garbage I can't believe tile guys use it. I've never used Kerdi board materials either and never will, to me there's nothing better than hot mop, scratch, brown and tile. Cement board and vinyl pans are good, when install correctly, but not 100% quality. I love your videos they're very informative. Keep up the good work 👍
Been using Redgard for 15 years. Never had one fail and prefer it to all other systems. Once the pre slope/pan bed is done and concreterockboard is properly installed and the drain installed its a relatively simple procedure to apply the Redgard that i can have unskilled laborers perform once ive insured they allow ample dry time between coats which is very important to prevent blistering or delamination of the layers. And i use a paint brush to apply it only. A roller applys too thin and troweling is too thick. Apply a med heavy coat with a 4" paint brush and let it dry about 2 hrs then apply subsequent heavier coats with 2-4 hrs dry time between. Just make sure its fully red with no pink remaining and wipe any dust off before applying another coat. The floor will require 6 to 9 coats depending on how heavily its applied and temp/humidity. I generally start the process myself by applying a medium coat of Redgard to all corners and seams prior to applying the fiberglass mesh tape to give the mesh a good surface to adhere to. And i use a 12" diameter piece of fiberglass cloth or multiple overlapping strips of 3" mesh tape around the drain for reinforcement (yes i think its necessary to use the mesh. Never hurts to overdo it.) Once the critical steps are complete i can turn it over to a less skilled (read CHEAPER) helper to apply the multiple subsequent coats of Redgard over the course of a 6-9 hour period depending on dry time. Its sometimes necessary to apply the final 1 or 2 heavy floor coats the following morning to achieve the desired thickness. I put 3 full coats on all seams, corners and niches etc, atleast 1-2 good coats over the rockboard center (i prefer to not have transition or borders where the coating ends so i cover EVERYTHING atleast with 1 good coat covering the center of the rockboard) and 6 to 9 good heavy coats on the floor extending atleast 8" to 12" up the walls. I end up with about a 1/16" thick minimum coat on the floor and allow plenty of dry time between coats to prevent blistering. Another reason to leave the subsequent application after the initial coat to unskilled helpers so i can move on to more important things. Anyone that can paint can apply those subsequent coats after the initial careful prep and application. Then i inspect very carefully and perform a leakdown test before installing tile. Its a slow process compared to Kerdi, requiring 2 full days including leakdown testing, but its a much more positive and foolproof system imo. Kerdi requires a skilled installer from beginning to end and is never going to be a ONE PIECE waterproof membrane no matter what while the Redgard system is . That alone is reason enough for me to choose the Redgard system or similar Aqua-defense systems. Knock on wood but ive never had one fail and i fully trust the system given 2 requirements. 1) the shower pan/pre slope/bed must be sufficiently cured (you dont want to seal in a bunch of moisture into the dry pack mix that can degrade the Redgard membrane) and of sufficient quality and structurally sound (no loose sandy surfaces) to allow proper adhesion of the waterproof coating and the concrete rockboard walls are *properly installed* and sufficiently clean and free of dust to allow proper adhesion. And 2) that all seams, corners, niches, benches or other change of plane areas or features are properly constructed and reinforced with fiberglass mesh tape/cloth atleast 3" wide for corners/seams and the drain basin is covered by atleast 4" all the way around its perimeter. Some say fiberglass mess reinforcement isnt necessary and that may be true but ive always done it and have never had an issue so i dont intend to change my process now. Imo an extra layer of protection and the peace of mind it affords is well worth the time and money spent. **by "properly installed" i mean the concrete rockboard should NOT contact the shower floor/pan/pre-slope/bed surface nor extend down to the subfloor surface (such as if the rockboard was installed before the shower floor/pan/pre-slope/bed. Imo a 3/4" gap should be maintained between the bottom edge of the rockboard and upper surface of the shower floor/pan/pre-slope/bed to prevent wicking in the unlikely event that water should permeate the Redgard coating should the shower drain ever become clogged and cause water to stand for any length of time. Its also necessary to insure a good Redgard coating with good adhesion to the bottom edge of the rockboard. This is the system that i have continually improved over the last 15 years and what i use and warranty for 10 years. Its a good system but it does require that every step of the procedure is done properly. You can NOT cut corners or do sloppy work and expect this or any other waterproofing system to work. If done properly however, the Redgard system or other brands of liquid waterproof membrane systems is the most effective and reliable systems currently available.
I just did my new bathroom shower. Used roller and brush for corners. Bathroom temp was probably 72 degrees, I was able to get 3 coats done in one day, about 90 min to dry red each coat. Been a week since I put it on, no cracks.
@@TileCoach yeah, your right. Custom products so bad, that they don't care about their shitty instructions. I hate this company mostly for Fusion Pro grout - almost impossible to grout on walls. Believe me, I've done many Home Depot installations using their products, none of them were great.
@@alllmas fusion is great product if you know how to use it correctly, walls ceilings, un glazed tile and stone I don't have any issues with it. Grout release is your friend, constant clean warn water and work in smalls areas... white grout that stays white and it's not a 2 part epoxy grout, doesn't need to be sealed and is much more waterproof then standard cementious grout?
@@T6Tarek you're right, it's possible to apply Fusion. But not worth it. All this extra labor... And come on! On walls this grout leaks from vertical grout lines while you washing it.
@@alllmas I'd be happy to send you videos of wall or ceiling installations with zero weeping. If it is coming out of the grout lines that's user error and tells me too much water is on the sponge. You really want the sponge as dry as possible, really any grout you should get all the water out you can. I do 10 to 20 bathrooms a year and use single component grout 90 percent of the time.
I know it's good to be young and know it all, I can still remember those days. But to make it in this business you have to stay curious and willing to do a little research. If you want to do videos on how to use a product do a little research first. I know you have heard of TH-cam since you are performing on it. Try using TH-cam for learning. Check out a fellow tradesman named Sal Diblasi. I don't do TV. I do TH-cam. When I want to learn I watch until I find someone who knows more than I do. When it comes to tile work I've watched many on you tube. Lots are interesting. Lots are funny. Most are not nearly as knowledgeable as Sal Diblasi. So far after doing remodels/repairs for years and knowing a little bit about all the trades, when I want to learn about tilework I watch Sal and learn something new almost every time. There are other good tile men on TH-cam, but of all of them the only one who's not shown people how to do something that I would say is incorrect or I disagree with is Sal. Knowledge is a weapon or a burden. Try using the right fiberglass cloth not the mesh that is for thinset. Try listening instead of talking. I''m not trying to be rude, I'm just old and don't much care to worry about hurt feelings. Just remember, to be good at something means you have knowledge of it. Stay curious.
It looks like your surface is off gassing and or moisture is being drawn out of the redguard causing it to shrink. I did not have any issues and I was a first time noob applying it. Although I do have many years in polyurethane applications. More coats and thin application to build up to 1/8" or 125mils. Temp during application should be around 70-85 with relative humidity under 50% for faster drying times. I used a dehumidifier in the room after application as my humidity was around 55. This is not the easiest system to apply in climates east of NM, AZ etc.
I think the liquid waterproofer directions sort of overcomplicate the process, though if you really wanted to make sure, you're better using a credit card mil gauge. But they're actually sort of simple to use, just do two or three thinner coats with a brush and roller, let the coats fully dry between each coat, and stop once it's all one consistent color almost like a normal wall paint. That and the mesh tape meant to be used with it is a six inch dryer sheet consistency tape, not drywall style tape (though Custom in videos sometimes shows drywall style tape?) I think the trowel method would really only apply for a mortar bed with a thick aggregate, and even then you'd still want to knock it down a lot more than this guy did, this guy seemingly just sort of smooshed it around, and didn't key it in hard or knock it down hard. I'm guessing this guy's dry thickness is 3-4mm in some spots, with one coat, I don't know totally for Redgard what directions are but Mapei only advocates 20 mils dry thickness, or about as thick as a credit card (maybe 1.5mm?) for Aquadefense dry.
I saw my gardener put this product in 4 coats (four coats!) inside my planters. It took him 8 day in the Summer. They’ve been holding up water for 3 years. So defo needs more drying time.
I think I would reserve redgard for wall waterproofing and stick with a pvc or like membrane in mortar bed for floors. It looks like the test in the video was applied quite thick. Maybe thinner coats for 3 or four coats would cure faster.
After a few years after building a shower with Redgaurd over drywall I have to report that it will it deterierate and become a mold issue. It's better to use cement board because it will always dry if it gets wet. AND you want a pre-slope for the same reason . Drying capabilities are important
Hello watching your video I wanna ask about the red gard how to use after we filled up all the joint cement board using the mortar my question is do I need to apply the waterproofing membrane in whole shower wall or just a joint cement board I filled up with mortal..thanks for the answer
I never knew the directions read to apply this way. This is absolutely horrible. Thank you for showing us isaac. My boss shows me to use the rubber pan liner, i think its 6 mil thick, cant remember too well, and then we brush redgard on the walls and use the mesh in the corners. Using redgard on the pan would make me nervous after seeing this, even if i were to roll it on thin and multiple coats, the rubber pan liner makes me feel more comfortable
That's because it was put on to thick rolling your coats on will dry faster. And if your looking for a product that will impregnate your thinset you won't find one.. rolling it on works the best and.. and it would take 4 coats to equal the same thickness as pan liner and yes you actually roll it on. I have done my shower and worked great...
I love how in the beginning they had that Guru know it all discussion forum knocking down "jack of all trades, master of none" handymen who shop at Home depot BS while doing this video from HOME DEPOT! then in the end, well, the rest of this video... Mind you, "TileCoach" 😂. Hey coach, wouldn't be easier to read the label than to make a FAIL video asking for help?
He was not in home depot, he just has there shelving. You seem to be a know it all so where is your vid? Can you back your mouth or just start strife. Be part of the solution not part of the problem.
@@anthonypayne6032 Where's your video Anthony? You seem to be the "know it all" can you "back your mouth"? Take a break from using it on your dad's manhood and make a video. Don't be a Payne in the arse and STFU brown nose.
Just check Star Tile. He knows. Use a brush, cover well, do not apply a heavy coat, wait about 2 hrs or less, and reapply. 3 coats on corners. A heavy coat always peels. I'm surprised about the wrong instructions. Cover porous areas well with brush. I'm a DIY homeowner. I always follow Star-Tile you tube video with great success!
They did another video after this one, and they have admitted they did not apply it correctly ~ too thick. Second try on the other video, he puts way less on there and it worked out fine. Thanks for admitting your fault ~ I will go and buy this product and use it now.
This is why Kerdi is still awesome, it's do damn hard to apply this stuff properly and so hard to detect faults in it until after you spent hours waiting for it to cure
aquadefense which I use is not unlike redgard but it is in both applications alot like a paint. If you go heavyhanded with the first coat adhesion is not going to be as good as 2 -3 thin coats. You need to also use a paint brush or smooth roller. A trowel is not ideal since it will likely leave air gaps that also will cause adhesion to be an issue. If done correctly there should be almost no brush marks on the surface and it should be smooth. the cracks much like with paint cracks is to much being applied all at once.
Aquadefense is a great product, and agreed apply with brush and roller and solid fiberglass tape in the corners 2-3 coats in wet area, goood to go. I never had a problem ever.
i agree adam. putting red or mapei guard on to thick dosnt work. as the material dries it shrinks. thats why it cracked and pin holled .2-3 coats with re-enforceing tape like fiber tape or the aqua defence band in corners or any change of plane.i prefer to apply these products with a roller. pick some rollers up at the dollar store. Boom done!
Substrate looked damp and I believe there instructions also say to apply a diluted primer coat? Either way, great video, definitely a time consuming process to actually apply as per instructions
I have used it over sand float as well as straight concrete. I roll or brush two coats. You may have gotten a bad batch. I use and believe it holds water. I have shower pans 5years plus, no failures so far.🤷♂️
This is the first time I have ever seen a red guard fail. The instructions are very straight foreword. Make sure substrate is dry, apply thin coats. That’s it. I don’t know how experts managed to fail what “handymen” and anybody for that matter can easily accomplish. Also, we just finished the plumbing for a Marriott hotel, and they used aqua defense in all 130+ rooms. But good luck selling your overpriced, poorly engineered waterproofing systems. I’m redguarding my shower this weekend
Thanks for not deleting the video re"guard"less of the comments. There's always something to learn. Personally, I've used the product many times, rolling or painting it on, and it's done a fine job. Thanks for taking the time to produce and post this video.
I'm a painter and you cannot apply any coating that thick and expect it to dry correctly. The corners will take forever to dry because moisture gets trapped under the surface that has already dried, so it has to dry through absorbing into the surface that that you applied it to. And it will also shrink as it dries. .
The problem is two fold. You put it on way to thick, and then recoated before it was dry. What happens is the outside of the coating shrinks as it dries, but underneath it is not dried. So what happens is it will crack due to the drying process. I prefer two coats using a large 3/4inch hot dog roller. It is always better to use multiple thin coats as opposed to a thick coat. This is true with almost all paints and topical coatings.
I hope this is helpful. PS I will be using red guard next week again. It is a fantastic product, and does its job when applied correctly.
That’s for clarifying
Same with nail polish too. Who would have thought 😉
Can you go over it with more Redguard the next day to cover the cracks?
@@rafaelmiranda8935 if you sand it real good first you should be able to
@Rachel Jackson Thanks! I really wasn't expecting anyone to reply hahaha I actually just finished sanding the walls and filled in areas that had deep cracking with laticrete thinset. I wiped the dust off then brushed Redguard on areas that had hairline cracks with a thin coat and so far it looks like it has covered well! Some areas have dried already and it looks like the cracks have not come through again. I'm gonna finish off with a second thin coat and maybe even a third to be on the safe side 😁
Good to see lots of feedback here. Even though this test failed it’s just as valuable as someone who shows it successfully being applied. We all know people that consistently fail to read or follow instructions or believe their way is always better. Some people need to see a failure before they believe it. This was a great example to show those types how it fails when not applied properly. Just as in life we often learn more from our mistakes than successes. Humble and honest guys. Great video.
I can attest...in IT, we only learn when things go wrong
I use redgaurd on every shower but use a brush! Never had this problem. I’m doing the card board box with redgaurd test right now going on a week and no leaks. Great product!
@@TileCoach you had a room full of "pros" and not a soul there knew how to apply red guard. What a joke. No wonder you work constantly fails
@@mikecoolcheeseharry5518 This guys are NOT pros, they are just Bros, lol. I watched this video thinking are these guys joking? Wow, epic fail. This is why I no longer hire "Pros" and instead just do the job myself correct the first time.
I used a brush too and wondering if I did it wrong.
So here's the thing it's longevity and percentage based for warranty that means the company's wants a 99% success rate over the warranty period if apply according to directions and that means a thick coating cus the company doesn't want to have to pay for missed pin holes
I don't think that is a very fair test of red guard. It is supposed to be painted on, and recoated 1 or two times. Putting it on that thick compromises the cure process causing the cracking because it simply isn't made to be put on that thick like it was thinset or something!!! Had you simply painted on three coats with adequate drying time between, you surely would have got different results. StarrTile did a test with red guard on cardboard and it held water for three days!
@@TileCoach yeah in multiple layers, always use a brush or paint roller
@@TileCoach if its 80 sqft per gallon coverage then half coat would be 160 sqft per gallon so you put it on 4 times to thick per coat since you thought its 40 sqft per gallon... you guys are so special... same as your 1000 mm in an inch...
I have put thin layer of Red Guard on Custom Speed Set and got the same reaction. Its not about how thin or thick you put it on, it appears that Red Guard reacts really bad with certain mortars. Take the Custom Prolite for instance, I have never had an issue with applying Red Guard on Prolite or directly on the Schluter membrane
@@alexbeis1861 It's easy to be condescending from the cheap seats
Agreed. And the home depot & handyman comment is insulting.
I've been using red guard for years wih never an issue and never a call back. Use alkali resistant, self sticking mesh in the corners and seems. Then use a throw away brush and start with a thin coat working it into the substrate. It will be dry in 20 minutes. Then brush a slightly thicker coat on the seams and corners and roll the rest with a throw away 6 inch roller. You can dip it right into the bucket. That will dry in less than an hour. Then repeat with one more coat slightly thicker than the second.
I don't use it as a pan liner. I use a vinyl liner on a wood pre-slope, then mud over, then red guard the mud and walls. It glues the corners so you don't need grout caulk. The standard grout in the corners does not crack.
It’s almost as if you wanted it to fail...3 evenly rolled coats, change directions perpendicular each time. One coat AM, one lunch, one PM. Tile next day. Never fails...
To Weldon, I have a question.
I'm getting ready to apply two coats of the red guard.
I've heard that I have to get all the thinset and tile laid with in 72 hours.
What's the best thing to do.... I've heard the tile will not stick if I wait longer than 72 hours.
These guys are straight up morons
Alex Beis how? Bad product glad they showed us
@@howardlaney1837 The product was not installed properly. Went on too thick. We use this all the time and have never had a leak. I paint it on with a brush or roller 2 to 3 times and it works great. Check out other videos of installs and you will see its a good product.
@@chadmckillop398 I just used it on a shower the other day and everything is good, cut my edges with a brush the rest with a roller, waited until the first coat was dry and proceeded again. Sticking like a charm.
Wow so many haters, you read the directions and followed them, then it failed , then respectfully asked for advice, Total respect for you guys... love the videos. I also a nor cal guy.
BTW, those cracks are from shrinking, either the base material shrank or the top material was too thick and shrank. But you def helped me , I will definitely do a test before I "lay it on",
I have used Redguard many times, and other similar products as well, and will continue to use them. I tried the trowel method once and quickly decided I would never do that again, and I actually wondered why they would even print that on the label? Having many relatives with many decades of experience in painting (actually centuries of experience if you add all of their years together) I have always known the best method to get a thick coating, is multiple thin coats. And with some extras thrown in for different purposes, it is essentially just latex paint. You can treat it basically like latex paint.
I used to live in the desert and never had an issue with getting any of these products to dry. In fact most of the time , by the time I got all the way around a shower applying a coat, it was already dry where I started. Then I moved to the land of the sweaty air, and the first shower I did, I watched and waited all afternoon and the first coat didn't dry. I returned the following day and parts of it still were not dry ( corners and anywhere it was a little thicker ) . The humidity here is somewhere around a thousand percent or something like that. Blinking and breathing are strenuous enough to make you sweat in the summertime! I got a fan and with that it dried pretty quickly, and the next coat dried pretty quickly and evenly. The second coat always dries slower because it can only evaporate, where the substrate (walls or floor) will soak up much of the moisture from the first coat.
Yes it is a time consuming process, but I have found it to be reliable. Also I am not in the high volume, production end of the spectrum. I am old. I hurrrt. Emphasis on huurrrttt! I don't want to run anymore
Thank you for asking "what did we do wrong?" Most people will never do that. They will just say "yeah I tried that once and it was garbage", and that's the end of it. And if we're being honest, you didn't actually do anything wrong. You read the directions right off of their own label. Which I personally feel are misleading...
It almost looks like it was applied to intentionally fail
I enjoyed your content... I've been using redguard for about 10yrs now, I first used it on my own shower and I sprayed it on with my paint sprayer... I did 3 coats of redguard with no cracking of the sort... I know spraying wasn't recommended but I said what the hell it was my house lol...
I did the flood test for over a week with no problems at all... That's when I had time to go back to do my tile. I've been under my house a few time and my bathroom floor is dry as a bone... I think the notched trowel isn't the best way to apply the redguard
Never had that happen to me, and I’ve used a ton of red guard...although we don’t use it anymore due to time constraints. We have found that the Kerdi or laticrete sheet or board works a lot better and is quicker to get started on actually making money (laying tile)
You need to roll it on. StarrTile has a video where he put RedGard on the inside of a cardboard box and it became a completely liquid-tight vessel.
I used red guard in my bathrooms with thin coats and put in a fan every coat and it works great.
What brand fan did you use and what speed did you set it to?😂
It's a whole lot easier using a roller and paint brush for the corners. I used this in all my showers, works great, hasn't leaked as far as I know. Great videos guys.
Key words "as far as I know".
A jack of all trades is a master of none but oftentimes better than a master of one. Thats the complete quote.
I have used this material on several shower project’s over the last seven years as a retired contractor. I have applied it over cement board and the relatively new poly/styrene materials. The last two projects I also used it on the shower slope on top of one inch base cement. I did all corners with normal joint tape and unsanded joint material. in some cases at the bottom the mesh cloth.In my case , I used cheap four inch foam rollers to apply the material on walls and floors rolling each coat out. Overall, I applied five coats over three days as I worked in other areas of the project. When finished, you have a thickness of about one business card. First and second coats, be sure to work into voids and bubble areas. Next three are just to build the membrane thickness. Works for me!!
Hi Isaac, I hardly use REDGUARD , my weapon of choice is HYDROBARRIERE from Laticrete - blue stuff. However each of those products acts the same way and works similar. Over the years I observed same situation - cracking and pealing off when I accidentally dropped membrane somewhere on floor and left to dry (thick bubble) or filing gaps larger than 3/16" - also to thick coat! This is why it is essential to combine any waterproofing topical membrane with fiberglass mesh tape - especially where boards meets, corners , built-in niches etc.. This areas always have bigger gaps and membrane will simply crack if layer of membrane is to thick ( greater than 1/8 -3/16") . If you chose to use liquid membrane you have to let one thin layer dry before applying second coat, and use of fiberglass mesh ( not the type that you used around drain on this video, but actual fiberglass ) in every corner is a must. In one of my recent videos I am showing exact same application to yours ( on shower pan and curb) , but combined with fiberglass mesh tape with exceptional results, maybe you saw that video..? Any way, I have been using topical membrane and traditional pan liner ever since - I never experienced any leaks or issues when done correctly... You aske about opinion - I gave you my honest opinion in this subject. Cheers - Michael
P.s. I also observed that more liquidly membranes has tendency to crack easier when drying - this is why I am preferring Laticrete product because consictency is way thicker than redguard - easier to apply on walls, less messy and not cracking as much as red stuff....
@@TileCoach th-cam.com/video/-Ql2xnSU1b8/w-d-xo.html
Never seen redguard take 6hrs to dry. Coat was definitely too thick. We have never tried the notch trowel application...
Isaac, my thoughts are, your video confirmed for me what the thumbnail already told me- which is the coat was TOO thick. I often teach my young apprentices that a thinned down coat will always adhere better than a thick coat. We can easily test this hypothesis by putting a thick drop of paint on any surface, then right next to it apply a very light thinned down smear and really rub it in. Come back in a few days and the thick droplet can easily be peeled up with your fingernail, while the super thinned down coat will need sand paper or mechanical process to remove. Hope that helps and good luck in your future projects! really enjoy the informative videos :)
Can't remember how many showers we've done after coating with RedGuard. We always use a 4 inch brush, apply like painting a wall. About 2 hours it's completly red and dry Then apply 1 or 2 more coats as needed. We set fans on it to speed up the drying. Love this stuff, works great!!
There are two reason why I think your test fail: One; it is way too thick, first coat should be very thin almost transparent. Second; you didn't apply enough pressure when flattening the ridges look at (6:40 on) he didn't apply enough pressure at all to make sure it adhere to the cement board, you suppose to press the product down actually hear scraping sound to make sure the product is adhering (that's why most people prefer rolling it on). Redo your test use a roller apply 3 very thin coat you will see a big difference. There is a lot of products out there where people think is no good but it's actually user error.
Thank God for this comment form cause I was having the same problem with cracking on my thin set it covered the walls and benches fine but not the floor I pulled up the red guard from the floor I'm going to re apply it with thinner passes I will let you know how it goes
Doing multiple thinner coats at a time and using the fabric in the corners works best with red guard
And using the right fabric in the corners is huge
Good Lord, that dude with the trowel acted like he was icing a cake! And, yes, "tilecoach", when you apply it with a roller, the roller is supposed to "ROLL" the redguard on like paint! If the roller isn't rolling, you are again putting it on too thick!! Think of it like painting something, several thin coats are better than one thick coat!
Why are people hating on this video? He literally said he doesnt have much experience with it and he ask the comments to tell him what he did wrong and everyone is hating on him.
I love the gag video. Had me in stitches. Thank you for the entertainment.
All liquid applied barriers we do a water cut primer coat. With a roller and brush. Will be ready for first coat within an hour. Full rolled second coat takes about 4 hours to dry. We put a box fan on it. Final coat by end of day and ready to go in the morning. All corners need to be taped. Never had an adhesion issue crack or bubble. We have used red guard , laticrete and Mapai , I use them for walls only though. We do regular deck mud / liner pans. But we do membrane about 6” onto the pan.
I use it on Kerdi joints only. Bullet proof installation, given their original warranty of no leaks with unmodified thinset to overlaps and Kerdiband. Getting the tile right is a whole 'nuther story. Waterproofing of the shower area is pretty basic these days. Thanks for taking the time to make this. Well worth checking out. You do good work.
“a jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one.”
It’s like hydro ban. Surface must be super clean no dust. Roller works better, 3coats. It seam like your first coat was a little bit thick. I roll it then smooth out with trowel.fan helps also.
watched your video and while I do love redgard and use it in many areas I never use it as a pan liner. Laticrete is the product of choice for pan liner where a paint on is needed. By the way my background is that I have been working in the tile industry since 1993. Redgard is great to use over non critical areas. when going over any masonry it is vital to remove all dust via sponge and dry before application. also multiple thin layers have never cracked out for me. my main use is as a reinforcing water proofing over hardie backer board around the step of showers and in the 90 degree joints. Again in those areas it is not needed but I used as and additional degree by choice. As to why yours cracked out, one thought is that if there was any dust the redgard would not bond to the surface so as it drys it contracts causing cracks. Any way I am glad to see other people testing products. Keep moving forward it is how we build quality in our craft and it shows we care about what we do and who we serve after all each customer is our boss.
Roll it on. Roll it on. It was too thick. When rolling it make sure you work it in. The roller is supposed to roll. Apply two coats minimum. Three coats maximum. I have completed at least 100 plus projects with it and never had a problem. Put a air circulator in the room with it and you can finish two coats in one day. Easy Peasy.
I’m 3 years late but hope this helps someone. What we do is apply a primer over the dry pack with a mixture of red gard and water mixed. We roll it or brush it depending on size of the area. That primer is absorbed into the dry pack and creates a coat in which the red gard full strength bonds to it perfectly and evenly. The primer drys very quick and if we’re in a hurry we use a fan to dry it faster and can apply up to 3 coats not including the primer in one day when doing commercial restrooms or wet areas . Water test can happen 1 or 2 days later depending how dry it is. Been doing it this way since we started using red gard and haven’t had a fail yet.
We also use mesh or fabric for the base and pie cut all drains . Local 4 so cal out!👊🏽
Just finished using RedGard in 100 sq. ft. shower. Used PROVA Joint Waterproofing Strip on all corners and seams. Rolled on 2 gallons of RedGard over Hardi backerboard with 3/4 in. nap roller. Applied three thin coats in different directions each time. I believe multiple thin coats are key and giving each coat plenty of time to cure between applications, (I had the time), because after letting it thoroughly dry you can see whether you have enough coverage. Again, because I had the time, I much preferred this method because of the cost savings over Kerdi and I think it turned out great
I agree with a few other comments that if it is applied in thin coats it works fine, but if it reads that it can be troweled on then you should be able to do it, but your right it takes to long, we always let each coat dry over night and never had any problems....that we know of.
i enjoyed this review of red guard application. I believe you followed the application instructions correctly as as they were labeled on the product.The problem is in the way you were directed as per the labeling . You put it on too thick .
Using a trowel dont work for me either. As the red guard dries it shrinks. That's why you got the cracking and pinholes. i prefer to use re-enforcing fabric in corners and any change of plane .2-3 coats with a roller and proper dry time in between coat works well. if you dont have a roller a brush will do. throw them away when you are done.
Man, you guys are catching all kinds of hell for this test! Keep your videos coming! I love learning different ways to do things. Don't listen to the haters. Thanks for all the info!
One coat, thin using brush or roller works well. Dries quick and do another. Pretty simple.
I applied three layers with a brush (following directions on drying times) and it worked great.
Great video! I will say I have used liquid membranes for ten years and never had a problem. I even started deleting the pan liner seven years ago and still no problems. I use tec and latacrete products for my showers. I have found that rolling the membrane is much better. You have to have a prime coat first though. I roll three coats on the pan then caulk the edges before the third coat. I'm not a big fan of sheet membranes because one air pocket on the edge will render it useless. Showers are not meant to go in fast. The faster you do it the more mistakes you can make. Just my opinion. I have never been a custom fan so these results don't surprise me.
Agreed, 100%. Ive been a huge fan of Mapelastic HPG, personally, and have NEVER had a failure.
Just to note, RG is essentially an acrylic paint and both shrinkback and priming (as noted by most commenters) are inevitable flaws that Custom tries not to highlight. HPG is more of a synthetic rubber (with solvents to prevent polymerization until cure) but it's still susceptible to shrinkback if applied too thick (>40mil). With Meipei, I can achieve three thin layers (flat trowel only) in one application at the end of prep day, and be ready for tile by morning.
no pan liner? you hot mop at least?
C'mon Starr Tile, you know you want to. I think they're waiting for it.
He doesn't have to. Isaac's numerous fail videos, and fail tests are proof enough. Except one.. the redguard test, which didn't fail. Hmmm.
Hello...! Do you know why you can not use Pre-mixed ceramic tile adhesive...??? There is no explanation for that....Thanks..!
😂
Thanks for this demo , my take ,,,, yes you waist 2 days minimum with this stuff thats why I do it at the end of the day let it dry over night and the next day 1more coat first thing in the morning with fan on and at the end of the day one more coat so its 3 coats all together, and I use a brush 4 inch. Now if for any reason there is still moister in the pan or any other corner redgard will crack and take its time to dry and then when its fully dry you will be able to peel it of real easy in those places , THAT SHOULD NOT HAPPEN. But I have learned to work with it for many years and thank God no problems ever , not that it can't happen but thats why I take my time to insure 100 % . This is my take and I respect others opinion on this product and others ,,,, again thanks for all theses great videos best regards.
Dude I'm a HUGE fan of your videos, but watching this is painful. Bottom line red guard is a good product. Roll it on lightly, let dry completely repeat a second time. You guys made a great product look like a joke and that's not cool. You don't like red guard don't use it. This is like watching a very poorly done bias commercial.
Rude aren’t you?
He literally read the directions out loud and followed them accordingly. Then admitted he’s never used the product before, and humbly asked for advice and asked if anyone knew what he did wrong. Then here, you and others, come telling him he made the product look like a joke? Saying don’t like it, don’t use it?
Your comment, assuming he was hoping the product would fail is the real joke
Mix and spray. 3 or 4 even, thin coats. Cover an entire shower in minutes, cleanup a breeze. Also drys much faster than rolling. If going on floor, the only place I'll goop it up is around the flange prior to install, then I'll smooth the excess and cover the floor working my way from the flange to walls/threshold. Otherwise it's awesome that you guys experiment in house, testing the limits (and beyond) of some products. I'm sure you've already saved someone from making the same mistake.
I think these guys were testing this product as professionals with the mindset of being able to make money. Regardless if it was t dried long enough it already failed in that respect. Good honest video. Just have to see it for what it is. I am about to use redguard in a cabin build I think its the right product for this particular job.
The red guard didn't fail. You failed.
It's disturbing that the directions tell you one thing, but everyone who uses it tells you not to do that.
I use regard as my primary waterproofing method. It looks like the first coat was too thick generally only get to about 30 mil after 3 coats. I do wait for it to turn completely red with zero light spots or pink showing. I have never had the process take 5 days. I generally start with a very light bonding or priming coat then 2 to 3 coats on top of that. I live in Oregon and getting a hold of sheet membrane actually isn't all that convenient and only a handful of supliers Cary them and never a full lineup so I'm stuck ordering and waiting. I have been use regard and other topical membranes for almost ten years and just know it so I stick with it. I'm not a hater and don't belive any one method is the only or right way. Keep up the good work
What water proofing do you use for your wall paneling? The experience I have with red guard is I apply the red guard with 1/2” nap rollers and I do 2 coats on walls and 3 coats on all corners and curb and joints. I think it cracked because it was to thick as well.
How does everyone here know their showers didnt fail?? I have done a shower with zero waterproofing, does not leak or smell of mold. I did it wrong and wouldnt do it again. But nothing is wrong that I can tell and it's been 5 years. I'm not about to tear it out to see if it "failed".
Other than that....good testing my man!
mikebsexy
You won’t find out until the grout breaks down starts to crack and the water gets behind the tile. That’s what the water proofing is for.
@@smash72cutlass30 I have a mortar bed, liner and preslope. It will take a few more years I'm afraid then. Plus rain shower head...not much direct water hitting walls, just the humidity
I have only used redgard in one shower installation and it did not fail at all, Applied with roller and brush, worked well. Just redid my own shower and I used a membrane roll system. Maybe others with more redgard experience can chime in. MastertileGA has been using redgard and other topical membranes for years with no issues.
I’m kind of shocked you guys didn’t already know how and why to use this product.
When it comes to warranties I think we are on our own. These corps design their warranties to not pay so it is my responsibility to find products and methods that I trust because in the end failure is on me. So with that in mind I'd go with 4:1 sealer coat and two thin top coats completely dried between applications.
Going back to your Kerdi tests and forgetting about manufacturer warranties, I'd be curious if Red Guard over the Kerdi bands would seal those corners.
Thank you for your videos, I'm sure they are a lot of work but they are awesome.
Use a paint brush, do two coats not to thick and that will work. Never fails.👍
Would this fill in a hole in my shower base? Idiot contractor. Long story
Maybe we put it on too thick. YA THINK?!
Put on too thick. As a painter I can tell by how the surface dried. So it didn’t cure. Also did you allow spec time between applications/coats? If not curing problems will ensue. I’d definitely recommend brushing a pan and rolling for walls. At any rate, great video/experiment.
I apply first coat and let dry for a few hours. Second coat I let "cure" over night.
The surface area needs to be cleaned with water and sponge first. The prime coat 4 to 1 water to redguard is necessary for bonding. Coat is too thick as well.
I had the same experience. I used the v-knotched trowel as the instructions and applied according to the instructions. The membrane ended up cracking open all over the place. I decided to get rid of it and use a different product. I must have done something wrong too. It seems like the trowel option doesn't work but for the roller option so many people in the comments are ok with their experience.
I applied it to cdx board for my aquaponics sprout shelves and I rolled it on. So far its holding up really well. I did not follow the instructions initially because my forman at the time told me to roll it on. I got say I'm glad I rolled it on. It dries quicker it adhesive to itself really well. So applying a few or 5 coats will save the hassle. However i live in San Diego so my dry time is pretty quick. 10mins- 30min in perfect conditions. 1hr-12hrs depending on weather and time.
Honestly your substrate was the problem in my experience red guard has cracked on me when you apply it on wet surfaces that are not completely dry yet otherwise it would have dry within a hour with a little fan. I don’t know but your pan look kind of damp.
I agree you can see the red guard lifting mortar when he peels it.
Why am I excitedly waiting for Starrtile to bring some snark to the comment section of a fucking video about waterproofing a shower? ... I sell fruit for a living. Why am I here?
I've seen other people put this on with a paint roller. Never seen it done with a trowel. If I were to bet, I'd say the cracking was caused by the application being way too thick. It doesn't allow for it to cure uniformly.
Also someone put redguard over kerdi membrane.
Eata deek u a fucking turd.
Thinner coats and wipe everything down( dust free)
Lol I never seen someone trowel it on like that 😂😂😂😂
In the beginning there was Tripleflex. Remember?
Used to apply same way. Ever use home depots version of Ditramat? Junk. ......and the Custom products are a joke too in my opinion. TEC, Laticrete, Ardex, etc are really the only way to go unless the customer insists then make em sign a waiver ......and u were never there if anybody asks. Then again, why do the job if not confident. Aloha🤙
1mm is .040
Handyman method bro 😂
@@larrygeordan5747 RG is one product that is actually really good quality from HD. Also Custom SLC is just fine. Polyblend is ok. Mapei 4:1 is the bomb only bostik dry pack is better. Laticrete thin sets are amazing but their floor mud sucks. Hydroban is king but aqua d dries before you can even get the damn anti fracture membrane up.
@@juanramirez-lr8fk actually no, it’s a valid method to waterproof. But this video install is done wrong and you definitely Have to know what you’re doing for it to be successful
I was skeptical of redgard at first until I started with my current shop. You put it on too thick bud. I rather use a pan liner but if the job is specd for redgard this if how we do it. I work commercial so I usually have 20+ showers to do at a time so doing it in stages is possible. First we float the floor making sure to cut out the mud a few inches short of the drain creating a drastic slope to the drain body. Don't worry, once everything is dry and we're ready to install the floor we clamp down the drain, put pebbles at the weep holes and drypack the void. This just allows you to bypass a pre-slope while still utilizing the holes if needed. Once the float has dried we tape all inside, outside corners and seams with fiberglass mesh tape and thinset. It's easier and cleaner than trying to tape while applying the redgard and also helps fill gaps the guy left when they hung whatever board they used. Once everything is dry (24 hours) we apply our first coat. Roll large surfaces with a heavy nap roller and use a brush on the corners. We do drains kinda like yours but with a brush. The first coat dries fast. Once it's fully red it's ready for coat 2. Do it in the opposite direction. If you rolled up and down on the first coat, roll left to right on your second. I like to do 3 coats and in good weather I can get all 3 in one day and fill it the next day for a water test. I've had inspectors cancel 3 days in a row so the shower was filled for 4 days without a problem. Like I said I'd rather use different methods but with the right technique this stuff is solid. We've even used it on the exterior of a 7 story building to prevent efflorescence leaching from brown coats. Works like a champ. Try the test again but leave the towel in your bucket lol. Great job by the way it's nice to see someone making videos who actually knows has some sense. I'm sure there are more but you're way out numbered. Keep up what you do for the trade.
I used a whole piece of wonder board 3x5 a long time ago. 3 years to be exact.
I still have that piece of board outside 24/7 and use it as a slider door on my back patio.!
I’m surprised it has not peeled of after all the rains and sun exposure plus an everyday use as a “door”. I trust this product just apply it as thin as possible multiple coats.
I know this is old but red guard works really well....use a skinny primer coat and 3 regular ones after....just like painting....use a wet sponge to get any dust off surface
I used a rough brush for the corners and a roller for the flat areas. Change directions on the second coat . No problems at all , worked as advertised.
Red guard is what I used on all my showers I do 2 to 3 showers a month for the last 9 years still haven’t have any problems(i know how to use it tho) 50 buks a gallón no bad. Should I change produc??? Hell noooo. Have fun paying all the money for those fancy products.
What state are you in?
Junk
dragon skin is $150 for 5 gallons
He forgot to mention that he changes his phone number once a year.
Hey Isaac, I have to commend you and everyone else who actually puts products on the table to be reviewed. Wish I had the time and know how to make vids. So, good on ya man.
The coats went on wayyyyyy to thick my friend. That’s why it cracked. Try a gauge to see how much you’re putting on each application. It also said trowel it on at a 45 angle and smooth it off 90 degrees to your application. I don’t use a trowel but that method wasn’t used. I’m assuming they say to use a 3/16 trowel because any bigger it would just flow between the notches like water and I feel it’s still a bad method. The roller is best.
From my experience I have no issue using this product. I’ve never used a trowel before because for the most part it does go everywhere. I have used a roller in a rolling motion and use a brush for the corners. Cut and roll like paint. Once it’s up in the wall I use a gauge to see how many mils are there. Takes normally and hour and a half for the first coat. 2nd coat I use to fill in any voids and I use it generously. And check mils again with my gauge. It’s actually pretty accurate with its recommended coverage. After two coats I’m normally at specs. Once it dries I get about 3.5 hours of tile work in that day.
One coat at a time with a brush and roller and check the depth each coat. Never had a fail or issue.
I had the same issue and it was solved by using a fiberglass mesh in between 2 coats of redgard. First I applied redgard on my substrate, then I applied the mesh on top of the fresh redgard covering all seams and corners and I did another coat on top of the mesh and that solved the problem of having cracks and fissures after it dried. I hope this helps.
You should do a follow up video showing how to apply it properly. I’ve used it several times with good success.
Try to mix the redgard with water and then brush it on your mortar bed. It will sink in better and stick very well. You can mix it with water and spray it on if you have larger areas to cover. Also if applying to drywall or mud. Prime it first twice with a good paint primer to make sure the redgard stick to the surface.
Unfortunately you put it on way to thick.
It cracked because you didn't prime the mortar bed first. You either have to moisten the surface first with water or make a diluted batch of redguard by mixing it with water in order to prime it for good adhesion. It's deep in the instructions. Maybe you can call a handyman to explain it 😉
I love the handyman comment. Some are very knowledgeable and do a fantastic job. Jack of all trades, and master of many!
Yah - he without a doubt bashed the handyman alright!!! I don't get it seeing how he has had more than his share of failures!! How arrogant!! He preaches all of these methods for viewer time, but to this day I couldn't tell you which system he 100% stands behind!! without any endorsement for advertising revenue. I like this guy, and do watch his video's. He makes great video's but not sure I can trust his methods from one application method to the next!! WHICH ONE DOES HE STAND BEHIND AS A "CONTRACTOR"
The true saying is “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but still always better than the master of one”
the panda bear is a specialized feeder, take away it’s only food, well, you know
Moral of the story…. I’d rather be a versatile handyman than a one trick pony specialized craftsman 😁
I’m a handyman on a job for 4 months now. I did the redgard recently for the first time, a backsplash tile job, it has not cracked, and I did prime. I used a brush to spread, then used a trowel.
I didn't even watched the video and just from the thumbnail I can tell I was lobbed on way to thick
As others who have commented...way way way to thick. Failed test perameters. Redo test with best practice. U focused on time vs product viability...
For a DIYer, time is the biggest savings vs paying a contractor $30 to $70/hour. my 2 cents, hope it helps
Prime base first, then roll it on thick, And brush thick in corners. Next day repeat rolling and brushing thick.
Works every time.
I always thought redgard was garbage I can't believe tile guys use it. I've never used Kerdi board materials either and never will, to me there's nothing better than hot mop, scratch, brown and tile. Cement board and vinyl pans are good, when install correctly, but not 100% quality. I love your videos they're very informative. Keep up the good work 👍
Been using Redgard for 15 years. Never had one fail and prefer it to all other systems. Once the pre slope/pan bed is done and concreterockboard is properly installed and the drain installed its a relatively simple procedure to apply the Redgard that i can have unskilled laborers perform once ive insured they allow ample dry time between coats which is very important to prevent blistering or delamination of the layers. And i use a paint brush to apply it only. A roller applys too thin and troweling is too thick. Apply a med heavy coat with a 4" paint brush and let it dry about 2 hrs then apply subsequent heavier coats with 2-4 hrs dry time between. Just make sure its fully red with no pink remaining and wipe any dust off before applying another coat. The floor will require 6 to 9 coats depending on how heavily its applied and temp/humidity.
I generally start the process myself by applying a medium coat of Redgard to all corners and seams prior to applying the fiberglass mesh tape to give the mesh a good surface to adhere to. And i use a 12" diameter piece of fiberglass cloth or multiple overlapping strips of 3" mesh tape around the drain for reinforcement (yes i think its necessary to use the mesh. Never hurts to overdo it.) Once the critical steps are complete i can turn it over to a less skilled (read CHEAPER) helper to apply the multiple subsequent coats of Redgard over the course of a 6-9 hour period depending on dry time. Its sometimes necessary to apply the final 1 or 2 heavy floor coats the following morning to achieve the desired thickness.
I put 3 full coats on all seams, corners and niches etc, atleast 1-2 good coats over the rockboard center (i prefer to not have transition or borders where the coating ends so i cover EVERYTHING atleast with 1 good coat covering the center of the rockboard) and 6 to 9 good heavy coats on the floor extending atleast 8" to 12" up the walls. I end up with about a 1/16" thick minimum coat on the floor and allow plenty of dry time between coats to prevent blistering.
Another reason to leave the subsequent application after the initial coat to unskilled helpers so i can move on to more important things. Anyone that can paint can apply those subsequent coats after the initial careful prep and application.
Then i inspect very carefully and perform a leakdown test before installing tile. Its a slow process compared to Kerdi, requiring 2 full days including leakdown testing, but its a much more positive and foolproof system imo. Kerdi requires a skilled installer from beginning to end and is never going to be a ONE PIECE waterproof membrane no matter what while the Redgard system is . That alone is reason enough for me to choose the Redgard system or similar Aqua-defense systems.
Knock on wood but ive never had one fail and i fully trust the system given 2 requirements.
1) the shower pan/pre slope/bed must be sufficiently cured (you dont want to seal in a bunch of moisture into the dry pack mix that can degrade the Redgard membrane) and of sufficient quality and structurally sound (no loose sandy surfaces) to allow proper adhesion of the waterproof coating and the concrete rockboard walls are *properly installed* and sufficiently clean and free of dust to allow proper adhesion.
And 2) that all seams, corners, niches, benches or other change of plane areas or features are properly constructed and reinforced with fiberglass mesh tape/cloth atleast 3" wide for corners/seams and the drain basin is covered by atleast 4" all the way around its perimeter.
Some say fiberglass mess reinforcement isnt necessary and that may be true but ive always done it and have never had an issue so i dont intend to change my process now. Imo an extra layer of protection and the peace of mind it affords is well worth the time and money spent.
**by "properly installed" i mean the concrete rockboard should NOT contact the shower floor/pan/pre-slope/bed surface nor extend down to the subfloor surface (such as if the rockboard was installed before the shower floor/pan/pre-slope/bed.
Imo a 3/4" gap should be maintained between the bottom edge of the rockboard and upper surface of the shower floor/pan/pre-slope/bed to prevent wicking in the unlikely event that water should permeate the Redgard coating should the shower drain ever become clogged and cause water to stand for any length of time.
Its also necessary to insure a good Redgard coating with good adhesion to the bottom edge of the rockboard.
This is the system that i have continually improved over the last 15 years and what i use and warranty for 10 years. Its a good system but it does require that every step of the procedure is done properly. You can NOT cut corners or do sloppy work and expect this or any other waterproofing system to work.
If done properly however, the Redgard system or other brands of liquid waterproof membrane systems is the most effective and reliable systems currently available.
I just did my new bathroom shower. Used roller and brush for corners. Bathroom temp was probably 72 degrees, I was able to get 3 coats done in one day, about 90 min to dry red each coat. Been a week since I put it on, no cracks.
Never use trowel. Only roller. Your layer was too thick. But once I found out Kerdi, I forgot about redgard crap
@@TileCoach yeah, your right. Custom products so bad, that they don't care about their shitty instructions. I hate this company mostly for Fusion Pro grout - almost impossible to grout on walls. Believe me, I've done many Home Depot installations using their products, none of them were great.
You can’t trowel this stuff on. It’s too thick. CBP needs to rethink their instructions.
@@alllmas fusion is great product if you know how to use it correctly, walls ceilings, un glazed tile and stone I don't have any issues with it. Grout release is your friend, constant clean warn water and work in smalls areas... white grout that stays white and it's not a 2 part epoxy grout, doesn't need to be sealed and is much more waterproof then standard cementious grout?
@@T6Tarek you're right, it's possible to apply Fusion. But not worth it. All this extra labor...
And come on! On walls this grout leaks from vertical grout lines while you washing it.
@@alllmas I'd be happy to send you videos of wall or ceiling installations with zero weeping. If it is coming out of the grout lines that's user error and tells me too much water is on the sponge. You really want the sponge as dry as possible, really any grout you should get all the water out you can. I do 10 to 20 bathrooms a year and use single component grout 90 percent of the time.
I know it's good to be young and know it all, I can still remember those days. But to make it in this business you have to stay curious and willing to do a little research. If you want to do videos on how to use a product do a little research first. I know you have heard of TH-cam since you are performing on it. Try using TH-cam for learning. Check out a fellow tradesman named Sal Diblasi. I don't do TV. I do TH-cam. When I want to learn I watch until I find someone who knows more than I do. When it comes to tile work I've watched many on you tube. Lots are interesting. Lots are funny. Most are not nearly as knowledgeable as Sal Diblasi. So far after doing remodels/repairs for years and knowing a little bit about all the trades, when I want to learn about tilework I watch Sal and learn something new almost every time. There are other good tile men on TH-cam, but of all of them the only one who's not shown people how to do something that I would say is incorrect or I disagree with is Sal. Knowledge is a weapon or a burden. Try using the right fiberglass cloth not the mesh that is for thinset. Try listening instead of talking. I''m not trying to be rude, I'm just old and don't much care to worry about hurt feelings. Just remember, to be good at something means you have knowledge of it. Stay curious.
Sal Diblasi
It looks like your surface is off gassing and or moisture is being drawn out of the redguard causing it to shrink. I did not have any issues and I was a first time noob applying it. Although I do have many years in polyurethane applications. More coats and thin application to build up to 1/8" or 125mils. Temp during application should be around 70-85 with relative humidity under 50% for faster drying times. I used a dehumidifier in the room after application as my humidity was around 55. This is not the easiest system to apply in climates east of NM, AZ etc.
I just like that shit didn't work & these guys owned it, then asked for help.
I think the liquid waterproofer directions sort of overcomplicate the process, though if you really wanted to make sure, you're better using a credit card mil gauge. But they're actually sort of simple to use, just do two or three thinner coats with a brush and roller, let the coats fully dry between each coat, and stop once it's all one consistent color almost like a normal wall paint. That and the mesh tape meant to be used with it is a six inch dryer sheet consistency tape, not drywall style tape (though Custom in videos sometimes shows drywall style tape?) I think the trowel method would really only apply for a mortar bed with a thick aggregate, and even then you'd still want to knock it down a lot more than this guy did, this guy seemingly just sort of smooshed it around, and didn't key it in hard or knock it down hard. I'm guessing this guy's dry thickness is 3-4mm in some spots, with one coat, I don't know totally for Redgard what directions are but Mapei only advocates 20 mils dry thickness, or about as thick as a credit card (maybe 1.5mm?) for Aquadefense dry.
I saw my gardener put this product in 4 coats (four coats!) inside my planters. It took him 8 day in the Summer. They’ve been holding up water for 3 years. So defo needs more drying time.
"A jack of all trades is a master of none,though often times better than a master of one"
I think I would reserve redgard for wall waterproofing and stick with a pvc or like membrane in mortar bed for floors. It looks like the test in the video was applied quite thick. Maybe thinner coats for 3 or four coats would cure faster.
Did you contact the manufacturer?
I rolled a gallon of Hydra flex onto a 30×30 shower in several coats and it's tighter than bark on a tree.
You ever see a birch tree? Lol
After a few years after building a shower with Redgaurd over drywall I have to report that it will it deterierate and become a mold issue. It's better to use cement board because it will always dry if it gets wet. AND you want a pre-slope for the same reason . Drying capabilities are important
Hello watching your video I wanna ask about the red gard how to use after we filled up all the joint cement board using the mortar my question is do I need to apply the waterproofing membrane in whole shower wall or just a joint cement board I filled up with mortal..thanks for the answer
I never knew the directions read to apply this way. This is absolutely horrible. Thank you for showing us isaac. My boss shows me to use the rubber pan liner, i think its 6 mil thick, cant remember too well, and then we brush redgard on the walls and use the mesh in the corners. Using redgard on the pan would make me nervous after seeing this, even if i were to roll it on thin and multiple coats, the rubber pan liner makes me feel more comfortable
That's because it was put on to thick rolling your coats on will dry faster. And if your looking for a product that will impregnate your thinset you won't find one.. rolling it on works the best and.. and it would take 4 coats to equal the same thickness as pan liner and yes you actually roll it on. I have done my shower and worked great...
I love how in the beginning they had that Guru know it all discussion forum knocking down "jack of all trades, master of none" handymen who shop at Home depot BS while doing this video from HOME DEPOT! then in the end, well, the rest of this video... Mind you, "TileCoach" 😂. Hey coach, wouldn't be easier to read the label than to make a FAIL video asking for help?
He was not in home depot, he just has there shelving. You seem to be a know it all so where is your vid? Can you back your mouth or just start strife. Be part of the solution not part of the problem.
@@anthonypayne6032 Where's your video Anthony? You seem to be the "know it all" can you "back your mouth"? Take a break from using it on your dad's manhood and make a video. Don't be a Payne in the arse and STFU brown nose.
Just check Star Tile. He knows. Use a brush, cover well, do not apply a heavy coat, wait about 2 hrs or less, and reapply. 3 coats on corners. A heavy coat always peels. I'm surprised about the wrong instructions. Cover porous areas well with brush. I'm a DIY homeowner. I always follow Star-Tile you tube video with great success!
They did another video after this one, and they have admitted they did not apply it correctly ~ too thick. Second try on the other video, he puts way less on there and it worked out fine. Thanks for admitting your fault ~ I will go and buy this product and use it now.
This is why Kerdi is still awesome, it's do damn hard to apply this stuff properly and so hard to detect faults in it until after you spent hours waiting for it to cure
aquadefense which I use is not unlike redgard but it is in both applications alot like a paint. If you go heavyhanded with the first coat adhesion is not going to be as good as 2 -3 thin coats. You need to also use a paint brush or smooth roller. A trowel is not ideal since it will likely leave air gaps that also will cause adhesion to be an issue. If done correctly there should be almost no brush marks on the surface and it should be smooth. the cracks much like with paint cracks is to much being applied all at once.
Aquadefense is a great product, and agreed apply with brush and roller and solid fiberglass tape in the corners 2-3 coats in wet area, goood to go. I never had a problem ever.
i agree adam. putting red or mapei guard on to thick dosnt work. as the material dries it shrinks. thats why it cracked and pin holled .2-3 coats with re-enforceing tape like fiber tape or the aqua defence band in corners or any change of plane.i prefer to apply these products with a roller. pick some rollers up at the dollar store. Boom done!
Substrate looked damp and I believe there instructions also say to apply a diluted primer coat? Either way, great video,
definitely a time consuming process to actually apply as per instructions
I have used it over sand float as well as straight concrete. I roll or brush two coats. You may have gotten a bad batch. I use and believe it holds water. I have shower pans 5years plus, no failures so far.🤷♂️
This is the first time I have ever seen a red guard fail. The instructions are very straight foreword. Make sure substrate is dry, apply thin coats. That’s it. I don’t know how experts managed to fail what “handymen” and anybody for that matter can easily accomplish.
Also, we just finished the plumbing for a Marriott hotel, and they used aqua defense in all 130+ rooms. But good luck selling your overpriced, poorly engineered waterproofing systems. I’m redguarding my shower this weekend