Oh!... Deo, I feel for you. Thanks for sharing your struggle. Seriously. I have had my share of those unbelievable situations. These are the moments that separate the men from the boys. As a pro, you know what to do. Stay calm. Always stay calm.
Gotta love it, a lot of guys would get mad and throw a fit, like they're a toddler, I've broken plenty of bolts in my time, and my first reaction is to laugh, it's called having a pleasant disposition, And you live longer, and happier.
I had the exact same thing happen to me on my civic. Tried to torque it the "natural" way and ended up breaking one of the bolts. Lucky for me, I was able to turn it out using a pair of nose pliers, but it was a true test of patience.
LOL the kids would call this cinema. Can't wait for the third (and possibly final?) installment of this trilogy. On a separate note and as I commented in the previous video, this P2647 is also seen in the Corolla iM and identical to its cousin Honda vehicle, the traction control warning will also come on (+ limp mode) so indeed, traction control is a byproduct of the VVT/VTEC issue as caused by the valve assembly unit. Though in the Corolla iM, the valvematic unit is a far pricier part ($3500 CAD vs $400 CAD in the Honda part) and R&R is much more labor intensive...broken bolts notwithstanding lol
Yep, my wife has a 07 Accord with the same engine, I had to change the gasket seal on that exact same part, and Deo isn't kidding, there is very little space between the engine and firewall back there, don't know how he's going to be able to do it, but good luck to him
This vidio is nice like a braai with its conversation with the cistomer and brokable bolts. I asked you on the first vidio that I would love to see second part of it and you assured it will be awesome, indeed it is. Also waiting the third one. From South Africa
Oh my goodness my friend your a victim of last touch from another guy lol but its okey your a good guy mechanic i salute you man i like the way how you troubleshot diagnosing man keep it up man!!
With the Honda's,the traction control light coming on with the SES light is a fail safe in the PCM to limit functions while there is a DTC in the PGM-FI module. The same with Toyota's having the VSC and ABS light coming on with the SES light. Seems more like a scare tactic from the engineers to get you to take it in for service ASAP. Ignoring the SES light is standard practice, but ignoring the whole cluster lit up, not so easy. Great content brother, BTW love the hat, looks warm. 🦾
I truly believe the shop that changed the gasket over torqued those bolts. They stretched them beyond their elasticity, aka torque to yield. They snapped one and caused a grain fracture in the other(s). I just changed a V block a few months ago and had no problem with the bolts. They really don't require enormous amounts of torque. About 100 - 110 inch/pounds.
If there isn’t enough bolt to grab with needle nose vise grip, as machinist asked/suggested, then bolt the old block back on with the 2 bolts, insert smaller sleeve inside, then drill into smaller sleeve as guide, to extract!
A thin cutting wheel on a die grinder or a short piece of hacksaw blade might be able to make a slot in that broken piece about 2mm deep. After all it stuck out far enough to cast a shadow in your picture. Then try to take it out with a stubby flat tip screwdriver. If that doesn't work, grind or file it flat so it can be drilled. That is unless a welder can fit in there. Nice video. I think you are in competition with Ivan for the most exasperating vehicle.
Deo, I have “blind” welded large nuts on many tight spots like that. I literally would take a 5/8” nut, place it over the stud(even if it’s below the surface). Hold a mig gun to the hole and fill it up. I’ve done this hundreds of times. The heat stays in the center and doesn’t affect the parent material, even aluminum.
@ I wrote up a more detailed description on IATN if you’re a member (Bart Young). Anyone with a cheap 120v wire feed welder can do it with minimal skill. I almost never use screw extractors. I’ve never damaged the parent materials, even when extracting studs below the block surface on aluminum.
It is easy to remove that broken bolt inside the engine block since it breaks while installing it, the worse situation is when the bolt broke while removing it because of the rust, you just need to grape the broken part from the middle and start turning it because it is not under any pressure now, it will turn out with just a little friction with it, use a broken bolt removal kit. Those bolts are meant to be replaced whenever removed i guess, they are very weak bolts like inside transmission screws that they broke just by screw driver if you turn them more than quarter of the quarter turn after they stop turning, meaning if they stop turning, you just turne it for a small less than a millimeter turn, it happen to me on 1996 jeep grand cheroke inside transmission.
Use a little heat on that broken bolt and stubby pliers to extract, otherwise weld a washer and nut to the broken bolt to extract. And always use a 1/4 inch rachet to tighten those bolts due to breakage.
I would try a spring loaded center punch to "spin" the stuck bolt that broke flush before going to machine shop. If that one was broken and the second one (and possibly third) ones were cracked there was probably very little clamping pressure holding the assembly on.
Those 3 bolts should be torqued down to apply even pressure on the gasket. Some things should be torqued down, while others can get the torque by feel. The reason those 3 bolts broke were the last person to install them over torqued them, and they stretched. When you applied torque to it, they snapped. Good thing you ordered 3 new ones. They should all be replaced, and use a torque wrench. Those pieces left behind can be removed easily. Just get some pliers on them, and turn.
I knew that bolt would be broken. Maybe tack weld a nut onto the bolt and use it to back out the broken bold. This happened to me on an 89 Hyundai Excel block. Sound like those bolts are faulty out of the factory.
***Broken bolts? Some bolts are " one time use" bolts. They have a failure point built into a point in the threads. I learned a lesson changing out a water pump on Lexus Es350.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I don't know if it was the camera angle or not but it did look like it was sticking out enough to get a needle nose vise grip on
My nissan tida 2009 japan in the morning D gear and 2nd gear not working then i am keep it on 1st gear for 5 to 10 minutes then D gear working please guide me
You can’t use a 56 Chevy for a daily. Normally, this job would have been not so bad to do, but the problem is the broken bolt. Another strike from Murphy law…
@ 8:15 Deo, I think you need to approach this problem from a different direction. Check to see if you're getting fire on all cylinders. Run a CAN diag.
This is one of my favorite channels on YT - just raw footage of a Mechanic diagnosing/fixing everyday cars. Thank you Sir💪🏼
@LitCrease My Pleasure! Thanks
Oh!... Deo, I feel for you. Thanks for sharing your struggle. Seriously. I have had my share of those unbelievable situations. These are the moments that separate the men from the boys. As a pro, you know what to do. Stay calm. Always stay calm.
@Taldish Thank you! Great advice
Gotta love it, a lot of guys would get mad and throw a fit, like they're a toddler, I've broken plenty of bolts in my time, and my first reaction is to laugh, it's called having a pleasant disposition,
And you live longer, and happier.
@rick343 I agree! Thanks
I definitely know the feeling lol had to replace bolts when they snapped
I had the exact same thing happen to me on my civic. Tried to torque it the "natural" way and ended up breaking one of the bolts. Lucky for me, I was able to turn it out using a pair of nose pliers, but it was a true test of patience.
@createdbydrop Yeah I bet! check out PART 3 on saturday, it will be great
wow! that's pretty much the way most of My car repairs go! a 10 minute job turns into hours and hours!
@ManWander Lol, it's crazy
LOL the kids would call this cinema. Can't wait for the third (and possibly final?) installment of this trilogy.
On a separate note and as I commented in the previous video, this P2647 is also seen in the Corolla iM and identical to its cousin Honda vehicle, the traction control warning will also come on (+ limp mode) so indeed, traction control is a byproduct of the VVT/VTEC issue as caused by the valve assembly unit. Though in the Corolla iM, the valvematic unit is a far pricier part ($3500 CAD vs $400 CAD in the Honda part) and R&R is much more labor intensive...broken bolts notwithstanding lol
@SidneyHMusic Good to know, Thanks
Yep, my wife has a 07 Accord with the same engine, I had to change the gasket seal on that exact same part, and Deo isn't kidding, there is very little space between the engine and firewall back there, don't know how he's going to be able to do it, but good luck to him
@rick343 Thank you!
i love your job but we are waiting for part 3 you are doing a great job bro
@odunayokehindeclement Thanks, Part 3 will come out on saturday, Stay tuned
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair okay
Happy New year Deo.
@tsepangnoko1962 Happy New Year to you to my Friend!
This vidio is nice like a braai with its conversation with the cistomer and brokable bolts. I asked you on the first vidio that I would love to see second part of it and you assured it will be awesome, indeed it is. Also waiting the third one. From South Africa
@wsnxumalo6707 Sounds good, Part 3 will be great
KIT'S Auto and.Truck Repair,Happy New Year
👍
@nickayivor8432 Thanks, Happy New Year to you too
Oh my goodness my friend your a victim of last touch from another guy lol but its okey your a good guy mechanic i salute you man i like the way how you troubleshot diagnosing man keep it up man!!
@alphexbloggers503 Yeah lol, Thanks
When you get the bolt out I'd install the third bolt and use the old V-Tec block! Take the new one back for refund!
Old Block should work fine then!
@ekimbrough1413 Wait for part 3, it's gonna be awesome
With the Honda's,the traction control light coming on with the SES light is a fail safe in the PCM to limit functions while there is a DTC in the PGM-FI module. The same with Toyota's having the VSC and ABS light coming on with the SES light. Seems more like a scare tactic from the engineers to get you to take it in for service ASAP. Ignoring the SES light is standard practice, but ignoring the whole cluster lit up, not so easy. Great content brother, BTW love the hat, looks warm. 🦾
@DustmanDiagnostics Good to know, Thanks
I just describe your channel love ❤️ your video sir happy New Year🎉 stay blessed 🙌
@dholfactory5878 Thank you, Happy New Year and welcome to our youtube community
I truly believe the shop that changed the gasket over torqued those bolts. They stretched them beyond their elasticity, aka torque to yield. They snapped one and caused a grain fracture in the other(s). I just changed a V block a few months ago and had no problem with the bolts. They really don't require enormous amounts of torque. About 100 - 110 inch/pounds.
@VashthStampeede Yes! Great point
excellent work thanks amigo!!!!🙏🙏🙏👏👏👏🖐🏽
@jesuscastillo6562 My Pleasure my Friend
If there isn’t enough bolt to grab with needle nose vise grip, as machinist asked/suggested, then bolt the old block back on with the 2 bolts, insert smaller sleeve inside, then drill into smaller sleeve as guide, to extract!
@reginaldwhite7747 Good to know, Thanks
A thin cutting wheel on a die grinder or a short piece of hacksaw blade might be able to make a slot in that broken piece about 2mm deep. After all it stuck out far enough to cast a shadow in your picture. Then try to take it out with a stubby flat tip screwdriver. If that doesn't work, grind or file it flat so it can be drilled. That is unless a welder can fit in there. Nice video. I think you are in competition with Ivan for the most exasperating vehicle.
@VashthStampeede Thanks!
Deo, I have “blind” welded large nuts on many tight spots like that. I literally would take a 5/8” nut, place it over the stud(even if it’s below the surface). Hold a mig gun to the hole and fill it up. I’ve done this hundreds of times. The heat stays in the center and doesn’t affect the parent material, even aluminum.
@bartscave Oh ok, Good to know, but I can't weld!
@ I wrote up a more detailed description on IATN if you’re a member (Bart Young). Anyone with a cheap 120v wire feed welder can do it with minimal skill. I almost never use screw extractors. I’ve never damaged the parent materials, even when extracting studs below the block surface on aluminum.
@@bartscave Oh ok, Good to know, Thanks, Yes I'm a member of IATN
WOW!!! I'm sorry those bolts are a problem for you!!!
@ROBINJOHNSON-l1k It's ok, That's life, Thanks
Deo...grind the broken piece down and drill it out using a Dremel tool for both operations!
@ekimbrough1413 Oh Ok! Good to know, Thanks
Oh yeah the good stuff 👊🏻
@sheerwillsurvival2064 Thank you!
Don't apologize about the filming...just do the dag gone thang!😄
@ekimbrough1413 LOL
Weld a nut to the broken bolt then put a socket and remove it
@vancefalashetti3025 Good idea, but I can't weld
Smart man at that price get spares for next one
@sheerwillsurvival2064 Yeah, I gotta get ready for the next one lol, you never know
Grasias
@martinarrieta248 My Pleasure my Friend!
It is easy to remove that broken bolt inside the engine block since it breaks while installing it, the worse situation is when the bolt broke while removing it because of the rust, you just need to grape the broken part from the middle and start turning it because it is not under any pressure now, it will turn out with just a little friction with it, use a broken bolt removal kit.
Those bolts are meant to be replaced whenever removed i guess, they are very weak bolts like inside transmission screws that they broke just by screw driver if you turn them more than quarter of the quarter turn after they stop turning, meaning if they stop turning, you just turne it for a small less than a millimeter turn, it happen to me on 1996 jeep grand cheroke inside transmission.
@abdouallahuniverse5689 Cool
Good video
@mehmetkunt2503 Thanks!
Use a little heat on that broken bolt and stubby pliers to extract, otherwise weld a washer and nut to the broken bolt to extract. And always use a 1/4 inch rachet to tighten those bolts due to breakage.
@Gspizzy Great Advice, Thanks, but I can't weld
Traction control is not just a function of abs system. Engine controls also affect how traction control works because of torque control.
@truth4reel Oh ok, Good to know, Thanks
Thanks
@norz172steel5 My Pleasure!
That's how a simple job becomes a head job just to get a bolt out. Or remove the whole engine.
@josealdecoa2417 Yep!
Bolt sticking out recomand good vice grip.
@jonp6347 it wasn't sticking out unfortunately
@ 21:02 well a missing bolt on that unit can give you a code, but I'm still convinced there another problem causing your jerking!!
@ekimbrough1413 Check out part 3 on saturday morning the answer is there, I can't give it away now
I would try a spring loaded center punch to "spin" the stuck bolt that broke flush before going to machine shop. If that one was broken and the second one (and possibly third) ones were cracked there was probably very little clamping pressure holding the assembly on.
@wilmarbarrick3194 Yes! Great point
The easily braking of bolts also indicates that they were several times removed and replaced without using toque wrech From South Africa
@wsnxumalo6707 Good point!
Those 3 bolts should be torqued down to apply even pressure on the gasket. Some things should be torqued down, while others can get the torque by feel. The reason those 3 bolts broke were the last person to install them over torqued them, and they stretched. When you applied torque to it, they snapped. Good thing you ordered 3 new ones. They should all be replaced, and use a torque wrench.
Those pieces left behind can be removed easily. Just get some pliers on them, and turn.
I knew that bolt would be broken. Maybe tack weld a nut onto the bolt and use it to back out the broken bold. This happened to me on an 89 Hyundai Excel block. Sound like those bolts are faulty out of the factory.
@erics9213 OK! Thanks
thank god i ordered 3 NEW bolts????should i maybe got another just in case????
@kennethstrait6391 Lol,
I sold my Honda. Good thing I did
btw the vsa traction light and check engine come on together on many engine trouble codes, its an honda thing
@tsxownz Good to know, Thanks
Misfortune Never Comes Alone 🤯
@tolgabasarr3091 Yep!
👍
@ashercohen4739 Thanks!
Honda Element : Engine Loses Power & Surges, Code P2647 - Part 10
@TheAnalogKid2 Lol
***Broken bolts? Some bolts are " one time use" bolts. They have a failure point built into a point in the threads. I learned a lesson changing out a water pump on Lexus Es350.
@HoodsGlobal Great Point!
Look to me like you may be able to use a needle nose vise grip on that broken bolt. I'm a retired Machinist of 35 years
@Chocolazulu Good idea but the broken piece was flash, it wasn't sticking out
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I don't know if it was the camera angle or not but it did look like it was sticking out enough to get a needle nose vise grip on
Try some hot glue and a flat nail, mate it to each other and turn it out
@partsshooter Oh ok, Good to know, THANKS
Could that be a driveshaft issue?
@ericknutson602 No, Not at all, the answer is in Part 3, Stay tuned
That hat is ratchet. But it’s your hat 😄 Do you man don’t worry about others 👊🏻
@sheerwillsurvival2064 Lol, Thanks my Friend
Just replace the one missing bolt would have fixed the problem?
@MichaelNomura-i9n you think so!
That stud should be loose it’s the head on the bolt that tighten s down against block. Prick tool should turn that.
@rogerpatton-zr7qd Good point,
Who knows? Could be a 25 cent bolt from Home Depot that Honda is selling for two dollars?
@MichaelNomura-i9n LOL, you never know! Hahahah
My nissan tida 2009 japan in the morning D gear and 2nd gear not working then i am keep it on 1st gear for 5 to 10 minutes then D gear working please guide me
@AsadRiaz-tx8ee Get it scanned and see if you have a trouble code in the ECM/TCM, or have a pro mechanic diagnose it for you
If anyone can fix it it's you
@vancefalashetti3025 Thanks!
O.K. I'm viewing.
@: 0016 That'a a mechanical issue!
Let's go under intake cover to check cams and phasors!
@ekimbrough1413 Nope
No phaser. It uses a sliding link-pin to activate the VTEC system.
Threads may have been spoilt ...at that broken bolt inside 🙆♂️
@knight6757 it was a mess, check out Part 3 on saturday
@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair is it out already?
Weld a nut cuz it has enough of the bolt exposed.
@eliezerramosjr1017 it wasn't sticking out unfortunately
That hat is your tademark. Pls dnt change it..Your customer has a good sense of humour..Check that missing bolt in the oil pan..lol..
@zwahashu Yeah! Hahah good to know
To many headaches I'll stick with my 56 57 Chevy's simple cars
You can’t use a 56 Chevy for a daily. Normally, this job would have been not so bad to do, but the problem is the broken bolt. Another strike from Murphy law…
@francoisgirard2306 I drive it ever day highways and streets
@vancefalashetti3025 Oh really! LOL
Nightmare on Element Street!
@bobcombs7138 Lol
Did you do a volt drop test on grd an pos.
@rogerpatton-zr7qd No! I don't think it's necessary
Yes the ABC system is concerning!!
@cmack5713 ABS Systtem was fine, check out Part 3 on saturday morning
Fix it! On camera! Now!...it is exposed and has no tension on it (unless crossthreaded)...just do it! Easy peasey
@milesmahan It wasn't easy my friend, Check out part 3, on saturday
When it rains it pours
@DJ-tn7vj Yep!! Lol
Why do the honest mechanics always have to fix the incompetent mechanic’s broken bolt?
@MichaelNomura-i9n It's crazy, we unscrew the screw ups HAHAH
There one time use
@NeoAndersonReloaded Oh really!!
@ 8:15
Deo, I think you need to approach this problem from a different direction.
Check to see if you're getting fire on all cylinders. Run a CAN diag.
@ekimbrough1413 No! we are on the right path, Part 3 will be great, Stay tuned
Broken bolt. THATSUCKS!!!
@ekimbrough1413 it Does
Imagine a college with 15 lectures like this guy .....🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
@RonaldPanorama Thanks!
Are. Sure it's. A. Honda. N. Not. A. Washer. Mashine from hell
@MayJulio-f8k Lol,
The perils of fixing a disposable car. Stick with a Toyota!
@MichaelNomura-i9n Lol, Toyotas break down haha