I just wanted to let you know, I have been wanting to get into reloading for many years, but never did, for the past couple months, I have been scouring TH-cam, trying to find myself a mentor per se, you, sir, are what I have settled on, if it had not been for you, I would not be doing any of this, I just want to thank you for all that you do for the community, you are a huge inspiration, again thank you you have changed my life
Starting in 1958, as a youngster under the watchful eyes of my great uncle, I began to reload using his 310 tong tool. We loaded 45 Colt and used black powder. 1960 was when I got my Lyman Spartan press with steel dies for 38Spl. And two years later, the Lyman SparT turret press was on my bench as well. No tumblers in those days. Out of habit from the black powder loads I'd wash and rinse the cases. That was it. Never thought twice about lubing cases, as it was just part of the process. And when I bought my very first Lyman AA carbide dies, I thought I was some big stuff. And I still use my old presses with a few added accessories. If it ain't broke don't fix it.😁
They had at least a dozen companies making rock tumblers by 1955. Interesting enough that method along with stainless steel pins, hot/warm water, dish soap and dishwasher anti spot powder became extremely popular once again. It's known as wet tumbling today. The stainless pins were often steel needle bearings and just dish soap was the cleaning agent along with water.
@@anangryranger The comical part is the original method of tumbling didn't make a comeback until about 8 years ago. It was sidelined in favor of vibratory tumblers with corncob and walnut shells dry media for decades.
I enjoy the reloading aspect of the sport. Hours spent at the reloading bench is time well spent. The enjoyment of " Rolling Your Own " is appreciated each time you head to the range. Nice video FC45LC.
Good morning, Mr.Cookie. Redding makes a mighty fine product. I never had any of the old steel dies(or new ones). Thanks for sharing and have a great weekend 🇺🇸👍👊
I started reloading 357, 44, and 45 ACP/AR around 1972. RCBS had their carbide dies out by then, but as you said, they were pricey. So I started with steel dies. But I bought my first RCBS carbide sizer in 1973 and soon added one in the other calibers because they were so nice to use. Of course RCBS was adamant in the instructions that the carbide ring couldn't hit the shellholder because it would break it. So the bulge near the case head was a reality and would cause a problem chambering after many reloads in 357. So when that happens, I'll run them through the old steel die and that will take care of it for a while. In 357, it was always more of a factor with R-P brass (and to a lesser extent Federal) than W-W because R-P was thinner and flowed down more. Never really have had as much of an issue with 44 or 45.
We also didn't have spray lubes way back when, and yes, we had to either apply by hand/fingers with Size Wax, or goopy lube, or roll it on a poly sponge pad. Nowadays, you can buy numerous spray lubes that partially evaporate and leave a nice even coat of "just enough" lube to do the job, and it wipes off or tumbles off in a jiffy. You can also make your own spray lube using pure lanolin and 100% alcohol, and it works like a charm. I still have to lube many rifle cartridge cases ,be they bottleneck or straight, and occasionally lube the necks of cases I'm only neck sizing or shoulder-bumping to prevent and friction at all from altering the concentricity of the case dimensions ( usually only for my F-class 1000 yard match loading).
I’ve been reloading since the late 80’s. I load rifle and pistol and I learn from Fortune cookie every time I watch his videos. He sparks memories of some of the older reloader guys I knew when I was in my teens and 20’s. Keep em coming Cookie!!!
Thank you so much for the video on steel/carbide dies, most importantly about the rings at the bottom of the case as well as the hourglass shape. Have loaded .38 for years, started .357 and first encountered the ring. Never happened with my lower pressure .38's. Have not read of this anywhere else. Thought I had a bad chamber or a die problem. Thank you much sir !
Wow! Perfect timing. Just got several hundred rounds off 38 special and 357 magnum from my stepson that works at the gun range. I used his 44 magnum dies we bought him years ago from Hornady to size a couple of 44s he had as well. Noticed the "rings, strecks, and bulges" and thought it was normal with me just starting out in reloading. Guess i will get some quality dies for the ton of 38 special/357 have now! 👍🏾
Yes, I have seen a lot of vintage pistol dies for sale from Bonanza, RCBS, and others, where the old steel sizing die had been replaced by a Lee brand carbide die. Always a Lee. Your explanation solves that mystery! 🤫
That was fascinating, I have been reading for about 6 months and thought I was doing something wrong. I use a Lee single stage press and thought that I wasn’t sizing my 38 or 357 properly. They “snick” into the cylinders just fine though. Thanks for the video, you are a treasure!
Nice reloading room. A little advice, when your wife says just put this in your shack you have plenty of room just say no. Before long it will be her storage room.
It just shows to go ya, you are never too old to learn something. Thank you Steve. At times on my 38 SPL, I just wipe them with a rag that has a bit of Balistol in it to take the grime off the case as I reload it. I will shoot, pick up brass, go the reloading bench and reload it all in the same session. As you say, about 100 rounds at a time. When the brass looks nasty I will throw them in the tumbler. Freedom to do as you please! This explains the difference in some of the old dies I have picked up on eBay and pawn shops.
Good points all FC. I shoot a lot of 38 Special and the less I work my brass the better, hopefully I'll get even more reloads out of the brass. For my lighter loads as long as the brass still enters the chambers I don't even resize it. I just use a cast .358 bullet bullet resized to .356 (9mm) and slip them into a 38 case and use the 9mm taper crimp die to hold the bullet in place. I have a lot of brass that I've been shooting (S&W headstamp) since the 70's no problem, can't tell you how many reloads are on them. Old 357 Mag brass that develops splits on the case mouth get trimmed down to 38 Special and get used for the same loads. I guess I don't have to tell you where my 38 Long Colt brass comes from. lol
I hated steel dies. All that lubrication and mess that went along with reloading. When I bought my first set of Cabide dies, I felt the heavens open up and heard the angels sing.
I prefer steel dies in my Hornady LNL AP press along with an extra seating die to crimp separately. Seems to offer a lot less herky-jerky motion and may enable the powder measure to be more consistent and perhaps even spill less powder out of the case as it cycles around. I use Hornady One Shot lube liberally and let it dry a good 5 minutes. It is not 'sposed to contaminate primers or powder. Completed rounds go back in the corncob for 15-20 minutes. Good vid, Cookie! Some beautiful cabinetry there in the Shack. Thanks for posting on YT!
I notice on the hotter and older/many sized cases this is true but usually doesnt happen until many reloads for tapered carts and almost never for straight wall before the primer pocket wallows out. So for me i like carbide
I was having some sizing issues recently with 300 blackout reloads and finally decided to invest in a set of Forster dies for the caliber. They didn't come cheap, but the quality is impressive.
Thanks for sharing this information!! I did not know this, but I had seen that bulge that you mentioned and wondered why it was doing that. Appreciate the information you have on your channel. Juddie - J & J TOA
I have and use a Redding Carbide GRX die to remove case bulges in .40 S&W, 10mm Auto and 357 SIG. Works like a charm and completely removes it with a single pass.
....I bought all of my dies when I was stationed in Germany in 1972..one set for each caliber that myself and my dad back in the states owned...I had them until m 3002 when I lost them after a stroke..I wish I had them back...believe it or not Ivstill have the original tube of lube that came with my RCBS Ammo Crafter kit..boutiques 51 years ago..that nasty old lube pad is long gone
Me a reloading newbie 8 years ago I bought the cheapest Lee $25.00 press to get my feet wet in reloading and today its all I need. I was fully expecting to buy a turret press and after many reloads I'm not buying any better press. Good dies are key. I do .45 Colt,,.223/556.
Made the switch to steel pistol dies a while back. Carbide dies were doing in my revolver brass after only a few loads. My cases fit my wheel guns so much better now and not having to replace brass as often. I kept carbide only for 9mm and .45 acp. But this might also change in the near future.
Great video. I didn't realize that the carbide was a ring. That explains some things I see on resized brass near the head. I thought it was too soft brass. Thanks.
I have and use a Redding Carbide GRX die to remove case bulges in .40 S&W, 10mm Auto and 357 SIG. Works like a charm and completely removes it with a single pass.
Hello sir! I just bought a 460 magnum BFR from magnum research. The tolerance in the cylinder I assume is really precise. I’m just starting to reload and I’m looking for the proper dies that will give me the best quality ammo. Thanks for your video on the steel dies from Redding. It seems to me that bulges in the case will cause problems with fired cases sticking in the cylinder making for tight extraction. I plan on mainly shooting 45colt,45colt+p and different varieties of the 460 magnum cartridges. Do you have any more advice that will help me? Based on your info about the steel dies I believe they will be my best bet for more symmetrical reloads and smoother operation. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all of your shared expertise.
I don’t have much of an issue with this because I only load short straight cases like 9mm and 40sw. But especially with taller cases, I can see how this would become an issue you’d want to address.
Now I understand why the product says full length resizing dye. Always thought that was weird Ofcourse it resized full length. Why would they put that on the packaging? Now it makes sense.
I purchased the 38sp/357 mag Redding steel dies and I am having issues with the sizing die. Regardless of the lubricant I use, when I insert the cartridge into the die I get this nerve wracking scrhcnnching sound and when I extract it, I get the same. Sounds exactly like what you hear just before the you have a stuck case. I sent the die to Redding and they sent it back to me. Any thoughts?
Very interesting - it appears everything old does become new again. Quick question - Redding has different manufacturing numbers for 38/357. It appears 2 seperate dies must be used? Thanks!
Still have a lot of steel dies from rcbs and Redding. Question is are these new dies better than the old and do you still use the sticky pad or something other than that kinda lube? Mine sits on the shelf tucked behind stuff. I prefer pharmaceutical grade lanolin paste. A tiny bit goes a very long way and it's not un healthy to put some on your dry skin and your dogs paw pads during winter. I purchased a small tub of the stuff a few years ago, it'll outlast me.
Always a pleasure to watch experienced reloaders with real life examples. Your vids are very clear, but I still have questions. Mostly....are you saying that a carbide ring die is always turning tapered cases into true straightwall cases with a bulge at the bottom? Seems like a diemaker would not allow that to happen. Since every resizing either pushes brass down to the base (carbide ring) or flows it up to the neck (steel die), I was wondering if you could you take a bulged case and run it through your steel dies. Interested to see if the bulge disappears and where it goes. I expect the chamfer on the mouth of the steel die won't touch the bulge, so it will remain in place. So steel dies won't bring bulged brass back unless you have a die without a mouth chamfer (Bulge Buster type).
I have done some extensive testing with several calibers, in several different guns, with steel and carbide dies, I've found that there is no difference in accuracy or velocity with the hourglass shaped brass, vs the pretty brass. I think it makes as much difference to performance as wet or dry tumbling brass to clean it. So now I only use carbide for the convenience, and deal with the rounds looking a little odd sometimes, which is admittedly hard, as I'm somewhat of a perfectionist when it comes to reloading. Anyways, great video as usual.
I've been handloading for 35+ years and I always seen to learn something from this man. What a wonderful channel.
I just wanted to let you know, I have been wanting to get into reloading for many years, but never did, for the past couple months, I have been scouring TH-cam, trying to find myself a mentor per se, you, sir, are what I have settled on, if it had not been for you, I would not be doing any of this, I just want to thank you for all that you do for the community, you are a huge inspiration, again thank you you have changed my life
Fortunecookie45lc is my reloading ,bullet casting and powder coating Sensei
@Leon Wilcox I started with a rcbs rock chucker in 93, finally could afford my Dillon 550 in 2015.
FortuneCookie 45LC, is a great online mentor.
Fortune Cookie is awesome, but give Elvis Ammo a look too. They are both very knowledgeable and excellent teachers.
Starting in 1958, as a youngster under the watchful eyes of my great uncle, I began to reload using his 310 tong tool. We loaded 45 Colt and used black powder. 1960 was when I got my Lyman Spartan press with steel dies for 38Spl. And two years later, the Lyman SparT turret press was on my bench as well.
No tumblers in those days. Out of habit from the black powder loads I'd wash and rinse the cases. That was it. Never thought twice about lubing cases, as it was just part of the process. And when I bought my very first Lyman AA carbide dies, I thought I was some big stuff.
And I still use my old presses with a few added accessories. If it ain't broke don't fix it.😁
They had at least a dozen companies making rock tumblers by 1955. Interesting enough that method along with stainless steel pins, hot/warm water, dish soap and dishwasher anti spot powder became extremely popular once again. It's known as wet tumbling today. The stainless pins were often steel needle bearings and just dish soap was the cleaning agent along with water.
Well, we didn't have such luxuries on the reservation in the 50's. I know because I was there.
@@anangryranger
The comical part is the original method of tumbling didn't make a comeback until about 8 years ago. It was sidelined in favor of vibratory tumblers with corncob and walnut shells dry media for decades.
I enjoy the reloading aspect of the sport. Hours spent at the reloading bench is time well spent. The enjoyment of " Rolling Your Own " is appreciated each time you head to the range. Nice video FC45LC.
That time spent reloading, is my zen time to relax
Good morning, Mr.Cookie. Redding makes a mighty fine product. I never had any of the old steel dies(or new ones). Thanks for sharing and have a great weekend 🇺🇸👍👊
I started reloading 357, 44, and 45 ACP/AR around 1972. RCBS had their carbide dies out by then, but as you said, they were pricey. So I started with steel dies. But I bought my first RCBS carbide sizer in 1973 and soon added one in the other calibers because they were so nice to use. Of course RCBS was adamant in the instructions that the carbide ring couldn't hit the shellholder because it would break it. So the bulge near the case head was a reality and would cause a problem chambering after many reloads in 357. So when that happens, I'll run them through the old steel die and that will take care of it for a while. In 357, it was always more of a factor with R-P brass (and to a lesser extent Federal) than W-W because R-P was thinner and flowed down more. Never really have had as much of an issue with 44 or 45.
We also didn't have spray lubes way back when, and yes, we had to either apply by hand/fingers with Size Wax, or goopy lube, or roll it on a poly sponge pad.
Nowadays, you can buy numerous spray lubes that partially evaporate and leave a nice even coat of "just enough" lube to do the job, and it wipes off or tumbles off in a jiffy. You can also make your own spray lube using pure lanolin and 100% alcohol, and it works like a charm.
I still have to lube many rifle cartridge cases ,be they bottleneck or straight, and occasionally lube the necks of cases I'm only neck sizing or shoulder-bumping to prevent and friction at all from altering the concentricity of the case dimensions ( usually only for my F-class 1000 yard match loading).
I’ve been reloading since the late 80’s. I load rifle and pistol and I learn from Fortune cookie every time I watch his videos. He sparks memories of some of the older reloader guys I knew when I was in my teens and 20’s. Keep em coming Cookie!!!
Redding makes double ring carbide dies exactly for this reason. Somewhat expensive, but works.
Thank you so much for the video on steel/carbide dies, most importantly about the rings at the bottom of the case as well as the hourglass shape. Have loaded .38 for years, started .357 and first encountered the ring. Never happened with my lower pressure .38's. Have not read of this anywhere else. Thought I had a bad chamber or a die problem. Thank you much sir !
Wow! Perfect timing. Just got several hundred rounds off 38 special and 357 magnum from my stepson that works at the gun range. I used his 44 magnum dies we bought him years ago from Hornady to size a couple of 44s he had as well. Noticed the "rings, strecks, and bulges" and thought it was normal with me just starting out in reloading. Guess i will get some quality dies for the ton of 38 special/357 have now! 👍🏾
Yes, I have seen a lot of vintage pistol dies for sale from Bonanza, RCBS, and others, where the old steel sizing die had been replaced by a Lee brand carbide die. Always a Lee. Your explanation solves that mystery! 🤫
That was fascinating, I have been reading for about 6 months and thought I was doing something wrong. I use a Lee single stage press and thought that I wasn’t sizing my 38 or 357 properly. They “snick” into the cylinders just fine though. Thanks for the video, you are a treasure!
Great explanation. We will see how the accuracy is affected, especially with the .30 carbine. Thanks for your excellent content and diligence.
Nice reloading room. A little advice, when your wife says just put this in your shack you have plenty of room just say no. Before long it will be her storage room.
It just shows to go ya, you are never too old to learn something. Thank you Steve. At times on my 38 SPL, I just wipe them with a rag that has a bit of Balistol in it to take the grime off the case as I reload it. I will shoot, pick up brass, go the reloading bench and reload it all in the same session. As you say, about 100 rounds at a time. When the brass looks nasty I will throw them in the tumbler. Freedom to do as you please! This explains the difference in some of the old dies I have picked up on eBay and pawn shops.
Thanks for the info. Love to hear about past times. Just like u did the old manuals. Show off ur collection!
Glad I kept all my steel pistol dies just for this slight problem,they work fine.thank you for the insight
Season's greetings Cookie-san!
I always get excited when Fortune Cookie 45LC talks about and uses reloading dies 😀.
Good points all FC. I shoot a lot of 38 Special and the less I work my brass the better, hopefully I'll get even more reloads out of the brass. For my lighter loads as long as the brass still enters the chambers I don't even resize it. I just use a cast .358 bullet bullet resized to .356 (9mm) and slip them into a 38 case and use the 9mm taper crimp die to hold the bullet in place. I have a lot of brass that I've been shooting (S&W headstamp) since the 70's no problem, can't tell you how many reloads are on them. Old 357 Mag brass that develops splits on the case mouth get trimmed down to 38 Special and get used for the same loads. I guess I don't have to tell you where my 38 Long Colt brass comes from. lol
I'm new to .38 Special reloading. I was wondering if just the crimp alone provided enough resistant to work.
Useful and practical information.
Thank you for the 'heads up'!
I hated steel dies. All that lubrication and mess that went along with reloading. When I bought my first set of Cabide dies, I felt the heavens open up and heard the angels sing.
I prefer steel dies in my Hornady LNL AP press along with an extra seating die to crimp separately. Seems to offer a lot less herky-jerky motion and may enable the powder measure to be more consistent and perhaps even spill less powder out of the case as it cycles around. I use Hornady One Shot lube liberally and let it dry a good 5 minutes. It is not 'sposed to contaminate primers or powder. Completed rounds go back in the corncob for 15-20 minutes. Good vid, Cookie! Some beautiful cabinetry there in the Shack. Thanks for posting on YT!
You should look at Mighty Armory dies to. Those are the ultimate, but Redding is outstanding. I love their equipment!!!
I notice on the hotter and older/many sized cases this is true but usually doesnt happen until many reloads for tapered carts and almost never for straight wall before the primer pocket wallows out. So for me i like carbide
That is very interesting. I've definitely had that ring problem when reloading 454 casull cases. I'm going to have a look at the redding resize die.
Lee's a great!
I was having some sizing issues recently with 300 blackout reloads and finally decided to invest in a set of Forster dies for the caliber. They didn't come cheap, but the quality is impressive.
Thanks for sharing this information!! I did not know this, but I had seen that bulge that you mentioned and wondered why it was doing that. Appreciate the information you have on your channel. Juddie - J & J TOA
What are your thoughts on the Redding or Lee "bulge busting" dies if you already have a carbide die set?
I have and use a Redding Carbide GRX die to remove case bulges in .40 S&W, 10mm Auto and 357 SIG. Works like a charm and completely removes it with a single pass.
....I bought all of my dies when I was stationed in Germany in 1972..one set for each caliber that myself and my dad back in the states owned...I had them until m 3002 when I lost them after a stroke..I wish I had them back...believe it or not Ivstill have the original tube of lube that came with my RCBS Ammo Crafter kit..boutiques 51 years ago..that nasty old lube pad is long gone
Is redding the only one Great show
Me a reloading newbie 8 years ago I bought the cheapest Lee $25.00 press to get my feet wet in reloading and today its all I need. I was fully expecting to buy a turret press and after many reloads I'm not buying any better press. Good dies are key. I do .45 Colt,,.223/556.
Great video, thank you
Made the switch to steel pistol dies a while back. Carbide dies were doing in my revolver brass after only a few loads. My cases fit my wheel guns so much better now and not having to replace brass as often. I kept carbide only for 9mm and .45 acp. But this might also change in the near future.
Great video. I didn't realize that the carbide was a ring. That explains some things I see on resized brass near the head. I thought it was too soft brass. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Be sure to let us know if they cure the Glock bulge in 40 S&W
I have and use a Redding Carbide GRX die to remove case bulges in .40 S&W, 10mm Auto and 357 SIG. Works like a charm and completely removes it with a single pass.
I wish you would load your videos on the "Alternative Platform" too. I have this aesthetic difficulty hanging around here in Google's Septic System.
Hello sir! I just bought a 460 magnum BFR from magnum research. The tolerance in the cylinder I assume is really precise. I’m just starting to reload and I’m looking for the proper dies that will give me the best quality ammo. Thanks for your video on the steel dies from Redding. It seems to me that bulges in the case will cause problems with fired cases sticking in the cylinder making for tight extraction. I plan on mainly shooting 45colt,45colt+p and different varieties of the 460 magnum cartridges. Do you have any more advice that will help me? Based on your info about the steel dies I believe they will be my best bet for more symmetrical reloads and smoother operation. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all of your shared expertise.
If I didn't already have Lee Carbide dies for .38 Special, I would just order a Redding steel die set with the competition bullet seater.
Are those die holders some of your handy work? Very nice!
After Lunar New Years!
So is case lubricant again required with the Redding steel dies?
you need to write a book and the art of reloading..
Cool story
I don’t have much of an issue with this because I only load short straight cases like 9mm and 40sw. But especially with taller cases, I can see how this would become an issue you’d want to address.
Now I understand why the product says full length resizing dye. Always thought that was weird Ofcourse it resized full length. Why would they put that on the packaging? Now it makes sense.
So are my new Lee dies shaping my brass with a ring of steel?
I purchased the 38sp/357 mag Redding steel dies and I am having issues with the sizing die. Regardless of the lubricant I use, when I insert the cartridge into the die I get this nerve wracking scrhcnnching sound and when I extract it, I get the same. Sounds exactly like what you hear just before the you have a stuck case. I sent the die to Redding and they sent it back to me. Any thoughts?
I hated the steel dies for the reason you mentioned.
Very interesting - it appears everything old does become new again. Quick question - Redding has different manufacturing numbers for 38/357. It appears 2 seperate dies must be used?
Thanks!
Still have a lot of steel dies from rcbs and Redding. Question is are these new dies better than the old and do you still use the sticky pad or something other than that kinda lube? Mine sits on the shelf tucked behind stuff. I prefer pharmaceutical grade lanolin paste. A tiny bit goes a very long way and it's not un healthy to put some on your dry skin and your dogs paw pads during winter. I purchased a small tub of the stuff a few years ago, it'll outlast me.
Redding has a new carbide die series. I wonder if they solved the bulge problem with them.
No more Lee dies for the “Cookie” ???
Always a pleasure to watch experienced reloaders with real life examples. Your vids are very clear, but I still have questions.
Mostly....are you saying that a carbide ring die is always turning tapered cases into true straightwall cases with a bulge at the bottom? Seems like a diemaker would not allow that to happen.
Since every resizing either pushes brass down to the base (carbide ring) or flows it up to the neck (steel die), I was wondering if you could you take a bulged case and run it through your steel dies. Interested to see if the bulge disappears and where it goes.
I expect the chamfer on the mouth of the steel die won't touch the bulge, so it will remain in place. So steel dies won't bring bulged brass back unless you have a die without a mouth chamfer (Bulge Buster type).
Born in 1958. Used many a case lube pad! 😂
Did you escape from Kalifornia???
And it was reloading not reading, I have been reading a bit longer than six months, lol
Gun laws may be worse in Oregon and Washington than California, you may need to look elsewhere.
Everyone can carry a gun concealed statewide in California? Huh.
@@certaindeaf8315 that would be nice!
They work great, don’t they?
Like a gun, be ever-vigilant against rust and they will last.
I have done some extensive testing with several calibers, in several different guns, with steel and carbide dies, I've found that there is no difference in accuracy or velocity with the hourglass shaped brass, vs the pretty brass.
I think it makes as much difference to performance as wet or dry tumbling brass to clean it.
So now I only use carbide for the convenience, and deal with the rounds looking a little odd sometimes, which is admittedly hard, as I'm somewhat of a perfectionist when it comes to reloading.
Anyways, great video as usual.