Matt Newland, yes that's correct. Starting at 1:38 in the video is what you're looking for. Best thing to do is have someone hold the throttle full open and adjust it that way. You should end up with little or no back play in the linkage after the adjustment in done. Just make sure you are getting full throttle. If you adjust it to much the throttle won't move full open. That's why I suggest having someone hold it open from inside the car making sure it's full open while the adjustment is being made. You can do it yourself using both hands. I've done it plenty of times and it's a simple adjustment, but it needs to be done for proper pump pressure. I can't stress enough that this linkage needs to be adjusted correctly and hooked up. If not you'll blow your trans.
Yep, without the correct throttle pressure it'll smoke the trans fast. I've seen people come to the track after a carb change and didn't know how to get the kickdown linkage back on, maybe the new carb didn't have an ear for it etc., and first it wouldn't shift for crap, then they'd wire the linkage arm, down at the trans, about middle and the car would kind of shift right. Often the old trans would be spent by the end of the day, especially if the motor's making really good power. It just destroys the frictions quickly.
Wow I'm extremely glad that I saw this video and I now realize how important it is for this lever to work with the throttle. Just to clarify- The lever should move the same exact distance as the throttle is moving correct?
the duster 340 we have stopped moving when cold. it actually sounded like the trans was buzzing in reverse or drive (when cold) I changed the fluid it was nasty and brown, it was like 30+ year old fluid. I changed fluid and has been fine since. I want to change it again though.
I know from experience the transmission will wear out very quick without throttle linkage. Using a full manual valve body is the only way out and what we are using.
you may not know why it has a slot going for ward of the pin. the slot is in case the linkage on the bottom gets coated with ice it will still let the throttle at the carb close.
I have a 82 D150 2wd mild built 360 and 727. The previous owner eliminated the kickdown rod and shifted it manually so that's what i have been doing for the last couple months. He made sure the kickdown arm on the transmission was all the way forward then zip tied it in place. He drove it like that for 2yrs prior with no issues. Should i leave it alone because it's working fine or have the rod reinstalled? Thank you.
ive got a 904 on a 225 presently., rebuilding a 360, can in still use my 904 or should i get a 727 with a 360?, and what kind of rpms at highway speed will i have with a torqueflite? better to go to manual? thanks
I just bought a 77 RV It’s got a 440 and 727 I believe It has a edelbrock 4 barrel There are some things wrong coolant gauge doesn’t work etc We noticed today a linkages not connected It seems to plunge a flexible circle ofnut were to move back with the carb or throttle My Buddy was thinking it is overdrive When driving it home I counted three gears all together What do you think ?
If it’s a 77, there is no overdrive. I believe in 1990 they went with a different trans (46RH) that had an overdrive unit bolted to the back of a 727, but in the 90’s the 727 trans was replaced with the 46RH. That linkage would be the kick down unless the power plant was replaced in you RV with an overdrive trans. I would doubt that. If not, you need that linkage hooked up.
@@joesmith-fi1sx , that’s correct. If that’s not what that linkage in question is and it downshifts when you’re in 3rd and you press the pedal to the floor for passing, then I have no idea. If the linkage looks like what is in the video, then it is the kick down linkage and needs to be hooked up and adjusted properly. Good luck with your findings and restoration of the RV
I have a 69' Road Runner with a 383 big block and a 727 auto in it. The car is stock other than the old owner put a Shift Kit in the car. Lately the car has been bucking back and forth in 3rd gear cruising between 50-60 mph. When you stomp on the gas if won't down shift. To second. I have the kick down linkage adjusted properly and the fluid doesn't smell burnt. What do you think I have going on?
hi I took my 69 Polara to the shop to have my tyranny gasket replaced because I didn't have the time to do it myself. when I got it back, the leak was gone but now it shifts funny. It revs up all shaky and seems to miss on all three gears. It would hesitate, loud click and then rev. I asked what fluid they put back in it and they said global Merc 3. Wth, I told them that my trans takes ATF+4.. so they supposedly dropped the pan and replaced with correct fluid.. and now it still drives just as crappy as when I brought it back. Did they fubar up my transmission??
I have a late 77 hd long snout truck trans with rear timing hole. It has a low stall torque converter its an inch narrower then the standard. The ring gear is about an inch. Do you know anything a out these trans & converter.
Where is R/T Dan's shop? Sounds like he's in New York, Long Island? I'm in Brooklyn and could use his services. I rebuilt the Carter afb on my 1967 Plymouth Fury 383 and didn't put linkage back right. It's got the original 727 torqueflite auto. I need help getting it all adjusted back properly. The car is in North White Plains, New York. I'd like to have it tuned by you this way.
when i slow down to turn a corner it seem like it dont kick back down to a lower gear, then when i start going again it feels slugish untill i pull the shifter into the lower gear manualy, hyow would i adjust that? the trans has been rebuilt ....bty, maybe a month ago
Chrysler th-cam.com/video/BqZtpjfczgo/w-d-xo.html specifically (as well as in the FSM for my '71) NOT to use a "type F" fluid. ATF+4 is also only used in post-80's models.
I’m bummed cause my 904 isn’t that old but now reverse is too weak to move the car all of a sudden. The other gears work well. Have a feeling it’s low like pressure. ??? 70 challenger
ZENIGMATV, sounds like you’ll need to have the trans looked at. Most of the time if reverse is near gone, you’ll find that 3 gear is also gone and won’t shift into 3 or it will slide into 3 or not at all
they say you are the mopar guru, iv got a 64 dodge polara with a 383 commando. has a push button transmission.. i need to remove it for a rebuild, im stuck on the shift cables anyway you can steer me in the direction in order to help me remove them. trying to get car redone for my father and iv never worked on push button stuff before. thanks in advance
@@Bulletman426 iv done some light research with no luck. i may swing by a few local transmission shops and ask. it may not fully matter i have ben considering going with a 4 speed. but thank you for the reply i greatly appreciate it!!!
With higher RPMs doesn't your engine run Hot? I have a 499 Mopar (400 block thats been bored and camed) it runs in the same rpm range already and gets hot QUICK!!! Even with major radiator and fans. Any tips for cooling it down 50°f to 100°f ?
Scott Rupley, are talking about the trans? If so sure. Run a good trans cooler. If your talking about the engine running hot and if you’re running a good rad and fans, I have no idea unless the rad isn’t flowing correctly. Possible clog??! Is your timing advanced to far? Are you also running a stock belt driven fan with the electric fans, if not do it. Also is the temp gauge accurate? As for this trans mod, this won’t make the engine run any hotter. Hope this helps
Cindy, at any rate the best thing to do is take it to a professional trans shop. But before that, take it out for a test drive. Put in manual low, run it up to 15-20mph, then pop in into 2nd and run it up to 35-45, then pop in into 3rd. You should be able to feel/hear it shift. If that doesn’t work, take it to a trans shop. Is the kick down linkage adjust properly? I don’t think that’s the issue, but worth a try. It could be a number of issues, but over the internet it’s hard to diagnose. Again, trans shop is your best bet at this point
hi so im not getting any first of second gear?? it jumps right past both of them you can feel both gears but it was to go right to third and stay in third. any help please and thank you
Matthew Tavares, are you sure you have the linkage set correctly? I’m sorry but I have no idea why it would jump right to 3 gear. Have you check with a good trans shop or someone in your area that’s familiar with Mopars? Sorry I couldn’t be more help, but without seeing it, it’s hard to diagnose
If the kickdown linkage was correctly adjusted when you pulled the trans it should be right now but the easiest way I've done it is to hold the throttle wide open, engine off of course, and push the linkage as far back as it will go. When the linkage is as far back as it'll go and the carb is at wide open throttle, it's correct.
nice video. Do you have any suggestions on troubleshooting my 68'D200 with A727? truck runs but will not move at all...in any gear...no leaks, fluid is good. The last time it drove, my uncle had a hard time driving it into a parking spot.
Hmm, did you check the linkage under the truck to see if it possibly came unhooked? If not, there has to be something that is broke in the trans. I would change the filter and fluid and see if that helps before taking it to a trans shop. The filter could be clogged. Fluid could be clean, but if the filter is clogged, that would do it. Let me know how you make out.
dlynes the linkage under the car is good but kick down linkage to the carb is not hooked up. will that prevent the car from driving or only prevent it from down shifting when you punch the throttle? can the transmission suffer from the kick down not hooked up? do you think a clogged filter would prevent the car from moving in any gear? I am getting zero movement.
You need the kick down linkage hooked up. If it's not, you will burn out the trans. It controls the pump pressure. In your case, I would check the filter first and change it and go from there. It sounds like an internal issue with the trans. Possibly a clogged valve body or line. Hope this helps.
+d lynes are you feeling the PRND21 detent in each position when you move the lever? Not having the kickdown connected will cause it to shift as early as possible. Regardless of whether or not you have the kickdown connected, the rear clutch pack should be engaging in D, holding the low/reverse drum.
It would be the same. I wouldn't suggest that you do this though. I would leave it alone for this application. The reason we do this for HP applications, is so that when you're at the track, you can just leave the trans in drive, leave the start line at full throttle on green and don't worry about shifting the trans manually.
John Penk I was looking into it due to two things. real soft shifting into 3rd. And the second thing is, when I get into more then 3 inches of mud at any incline I can't even get the tires to spin. yet she can smoke the tires on pavement and shifts firm into second.
Any recommendations, my 727 won’t shift into gear until I drive for maybe 10-15 mins and it warms up. It’s sluggish until warm and finally shifts after that. Transmission was replaced last year from Jeggs. Please help
John Rosado, my 66 Fury was the same way. You let the car sit for days or weeks before driving? 727’s are known for this issue. They have a anti drain back system. Most likely the converter is draining back it’s fluid into the pan along with the lines and so on. The next time you start the car, put it right into neutral and let it run in neutral for a minute or so. Then try it. You mentioned that it’s a Jeggs trans put in last year. Isn’t it under warranty still? Again my Fury did the same thing and doing the neutral trick it was fine every time for me. My car sat for days/weeks sometimes so it would drain back on me. Let me know how this works for you. Hope it helps
John Penk thank you for the advise. No it’s out of warranty now. Only 90 days. My original transmission never did this so I was confused when it happened. I will give it a try and update u. Thanks
John Rosado, I doubt it’s the pump pressure as your trans was fine before, correct? Have you tried changing the fluid and filter? If that doesn’t work you’ll need to take it to a trans shop to have them take a look. How long did you let it run in neutral? Try it again and let it run for a few minutes in neutral and see if that helps. Usually that does the trick. I’m sorry I can’t be more of help. Please keep me posted when you get it sorted out
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Matt Newland, yes that's correct. Starting at 1:38 in the video is what you're looking for. Best thing to do is have someone hold the throttle full open and adjust it that way. You should end up with little or no back play in the linkage after the adjustment in done. Just make sure you are getting full throttle. If you adjust it to much the throttle won't move full open. That's why I suggest having someone hold it open from inside the car making sure it's full open while the adjustment is being made. You can do it yourself using both hands. I've done it plenty of times and it's a simple adjustment, but it needs to be done for proper pump pressure. I can't stress enough that this linkage needs to be adjusted correctly and hooked up. If not you'll blow your trans.
Yep, without the correct throttle pressure it'll smoke the trans fast. I've seen people come to the track after a carb change and didn't know how to get the kickdown linkage back on, maybe the new carb didn't have an ear for it etc., and first it wouldn't shift for crap, then they'd wire the linkage arm, down at the trans, about middle and the car would kind of shift right. Often the old trans would be spent by the end of the day, especially if the motor's making really good power. It just destroys the frictions quickly.
Great info thanks John.
Thanks, I've been looking at these 727 vids. I have a 1971 Demon340, AT.
He’s in New Jersey. He also writes articles for Mopar Muscle Magazine. Check out the new build he’s doing. He’s the ultimate Mopar guru.
J
How to put eng and trans in a 1973 challenger that was from a 1983 dodge 1 ton pi kup
Hope he's better than mark worman?
Just the info I was needing for my 68 sweptline. Thank you!
I'm trying to figure out the kickdown linkage on my 79 Winnebago (Dodge 440) and this helped, thanks.
Wow I'm extremely glad that I saw this video and I now realize how important it is for this lever to work with the throttle. Just to clarify- The lever should move the same exact distance as the throttle is moving correct?
Yes that’s correct
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great video.
the duster 340 we have stopped moving when cold. it actually sounded like the trans was buzzing in reverse or drive (when cold) I changed the fluid it was nasty and brown, it was like 30+ year old fluid. I changed fluid and has been fine since. I want to change it again though.
I know from experience the transmission will wear out very quick without throttle linkage. Using a full manual valve body is the only way out and what we are using.
you may not know why it has a slot going for ward of the pin. the slot is in case the linkage on the bottom gets coated with ice it will still let the throttle at the carb close.
I have a 82 D150 2wd mild built 360 and 727.
The previous owner eliminated the kickdown rod and shifted it manually so that's what i have been doing for the last couple months.
He made sure the kickdown arm on the transmission was all the way forward then zip tied it in place.
He drove it like that for 2yrs prior with no issues.
Should i leave it alone because it's working fine or have the rod reinstalled?
Thank you.
Thanks for posting, very helpful information.
I’m sorry for the delay, but yes it’s the same on the 904.
ive got a 904 on a 225 presently., rebuilding a 360, can in still use my 904 or should i get a 727 with a 360?, and what kind of rpms at highway speed will i have with a torqueflite? better to go to manual? thanks
Got a 727 in MT 3/4 ton international pickup.
Where is RT Dan Located?
I need help, no one knows how to adjust the transmission. I'm in Athens Alabama. I got a 1968 GTX
I just bought a 77 RV It’s got a 440 and 727 I believe
It has a edelbrock 4 barrel There are some things wrong coolant gauge doesn’t work etc We noticed today a linkages not connected It seems to plunge a flexible circle ofnut were to move back with the carb or throttle My Buddy was thinking it is overdrive When driving it home I counted three gears all together What do you think ?
If it’s a 77, there is no overdrive. I believe in 1990 they went with a different trans (46RH) that had an overdrive unit bolted to the back of a 727, but in the 90’s the 727 trans was replaced with the 46RH. That linkage would be the kick down unless the power plant was replaced in you RV with an overdrive trans. I would doubt that. If not, you need that linkage hooked up.
@@Bulletman426 thank you By kick down you mean it downshifts ??
@@joesmith-fi1sx , that’s correct. If that’s not what that linkage in question is and it downshifts when you’re in 3rd and you press the pedal to the floor for passing, then I have no idea. If the linkage looks like what is in the video, then it is the kick down linkage and needs to be hooked up and adjusted properly. Good luck with your findings and restoration of the RV
@@Bulletman426 thank you sirp
I have a 69' Road Runner with a 383 big block and a 727 auto in it. The car is stock other than the old owner put a Shift Kit in the car. Lately the car has been bucking back and forth in 3rd gear cruising between 50-60 mph. When you stomp on the gas if won't down shift. To second. I have the kick down linkage adjusted properly and the fluid doesn't smell burnt. What do you think I have going on?
hi I took my 69 Polara to the shop to have my tyranny gasket replaced because I didn't have the time to do it myself. when I got it back, the leak was gone but now it shifts funny. It revs up all shaky and seems to miss on all three gears. It would hesitate, loud click and then rev. I asked what fluid they put back in it and they said global Merc 3. Wth, I told them that my trans takes ATF+4.. so they supposedly dropped the pan and replaced with correct fluid.. and now it still drives just as crappy as when I brought it back. Did they fubar up my transmission??
I have a late 77 hd long snout truck trans with rear timing hole. It has a low stall torque converter its an inch narrower then the standard. The ring gear is about an inch. Do you know anything a out these trans & converter.
Where is R/T Dan's shop? Sounds like he's in New York, Long Island? I'm in Brooklyn and could use his services.
I rebuilt the Carter afb on my 1967 Plymouth Fury 383 and didn't put linkage back right. It's got the original 727 torqueflite auto. I need help getting it all adjusted back properly. The car is in North White Plains, New York. I'd like to have it tuned by you this way.
@john penk .
Same on the 904 ?
Mine is an 87 with a 5.2 but shifting is sad. 1800 and 1700 are the shift points with no real kickdown once in 3rd
when i slow down to turn a corner it seem like it dont kick back down to a lower gear, then when i start going again it feels slugish untill i pull the shifter into the lower gear manualy, hyow would i adjust that? the trans has been rebuilt ....bty, maybe a month ago
Chrysler
th-cam.com/video/BqZtpjfczgo/w-d-xo.html
specifically (as well as in the FSM for my '71) NOT to use a "type F" fluid.
ATF+4 is also only used in post-80's models.
I’m bummed cause my 904 isn’t that old but now reverse is too weak to move the car all of a sudden. The other gears work well. Have a feeling it’s low like pressure. ??? 70 challenger
ZENIGMATV, sounds like you’ll need to have the trans looked at. Most of the time if reverse is near gone, you’ll find that 3 gear is also gone and won’t shift into 3 or it will slide into 3 or not at all
Thank you I Gave this to a friend how was working on his.
John, I'm confused! It seems that you adjusted the kickdown linkage to activate at light, medium and WOT. So why is the bracket slotted?
The bracket has a slot in case something binds up either on the linkage, or in the transmission, the carburetor will still go back to idle.
they say you are the mopar guru, iv got a 64 dodge polara with a 383 commando. has a push button transmission.. i need to remove it for a rebuild, im stuck on the shift cables anyway you can steer me in the direction in order to help me remove them. trying to get car redone for my father and iv never worked on push button stuff before. thanks in advance
michael nevells , I’m sorry but have no idea. Did you search google. Or better yet, stop by a trans shop and ask one of the techs
@@Bulletman426 iv done some light research with no luck. i may swing by a few local transmission shops and ask. it may not fully matter i have ben considering going with a 4 speed. but thank you for the reply i greatly appreciate it!!!
With higher RPMs doesn't your engine run Hot? I have a 499 Mopar (400 block thats been bored and camed) it runs in the same rpm range already and gets hot QUICK!!! Even with major radiator and fans. Any tips for cooling it down 50°f to 100°f ?
Scott Rupley, are talking about the trans? If so sure. Run a good trans cooler. If your talking about the engine running hot and if you’re running a good rad and fans, I have no idea unless the rad isn’t flowing correctly. Possible clog??! Is your timing advanced to far? Are you also running a stock belt driven fan with the electric fans, if not do it. Also is the temp gauge accurate?
As for this trans mod, this won’t make the engine run any hotter. Hope this helps
I have one was doing fine got in the truck but now want shift to 3rd gear. Any advice would be helpful
Cindy Huey, how is reverse? You have no 3rd gear at all?
Cindy, at any rate the best thing to do is take it to a professional trans shop. But before that, take it out for a test drive. Put in manual low, run it up to 15-20mph, then pop in into 2nd and run it up to 35-45, then pop in into 3rd. You should be able to feel/hear it shift. If that doesn’t work, take it to a trans shop.
Is the kick down linkage adjust properly? I don’t think that’s the issue, but worth a try. It could be a number of issues, but over the internet it’s hard to diagnose. Again, trans shop is your best bet at this point
hi so im not getting any first of second gear?? it jumps right past both of them you can feel both gears but it was to go right to third and stay in third. any help please and thank you
Matthew Tavares, are you sure you have the linkage set correctly? I’m sorry but I have no idea why it would jump right to 3 gear. Have you check with a good trans shop or someone in your area that’s familiar with Mopars? Sorry I couldn’t be more help, but without seeing it, it’s hard to diagnose
thanks for the video.
If my TF727 has been recently rebuilt, is there a good chance that it has been tuned as you display in your video? How do I know?
If the kickdown linkage was correctly adjusted when you pulled the trans it should be right now but the easiest way I've done it is to hold the throttle wide open, engine off of course, and push the linkage as far back as it will go. When the linkage is as far back as it'll go and the carb is at wide open throttle, it's correct.
nice video. Do you have any suggestions on troubleshooting my 68'D200 with A727? truck runs but will not move at all...in any gear...no leaks, fluid is good. The last time it drove, my uncle had a hard time driving it into a parking spot.
Hmm, did you check the linkage under the truck to see if it possibly came unhooked? If not, there has to be something that is broke in the trans. I would change the filter and fluid and see if that helps before taking it to a trans shop. The filter could be clogged. Fluid could be clean, but if the filter is clogged, that would do it. Let me know how you make out.
I will start here. thanks so much!
dlynes the linkage under the car is good but kick down linkage to the carb is not hooked up. will that prevent the car from driving or only prevent it from down shifting when you punch the throttle? can the transmission suffer from the kick down not hooked up?
do you think a clogged filter would prevent the car from moving in any gear? I am getting zero movement.
You need the kick down linkage hooked up. If it's not, you will burn out the trans. It controls the pump pressure. In your case, I would check the filter first and change it and go from there. It sounds like an internal issue with the trans. Possibly a clogged valve body or line. Hope this helps.
+d lynes are you feeling the PRND21 detent in each position when you move the lever? Not having the kickdown connected will cause it to shift as early as possible. Regardless of whether or not you have the kickdown connected, the rear clutch pack should be engaging in D, holding the low/reverse drum.
on my jeep grand wagoneer 727, would it be the same way to adjust pump pressure?
It would be the same. I wouldn't suggest that you do this though. I would leave it alone for this application. The reason we do this for HP applications, is so that when you're at the track, you can just leave the trans in drive, leave the start line at full throttle on green and don't worry about shifting the trans manually.
John Penk
I was looking into it due to two things. real soft shifting into 3rd. And the second thing is, when I get into more then 3 inches of mud at any incline I can't even get the tires to spin. yet she can smoke the tires on pavement and shifts firm into second.
Any recommendations, my 727 won’t shift into gear until I drive for maybe 10-15 mins and it warms up. It’s sluggish until warm and finally shifts after that. Transmission was replaced last year from Jeggs. Please help
John Rosado, my 66 Fury was the same way. You let the car sit for days or weeks before driving? 727’s are known for this issue. They have a anti drain back system. Most likely the converter is draining back it’s fluid into the pan along with the lines and so on.
The next time you start the car, put it right into neutral and let it run in neutral for a minute or so. Then try it. You mentioned that it’s a Jeggs trans put in last year. Isn’t it under warranty still? Again my Fury did the same thing and doing the neutral trick it was fine every time for me. My car sat for days/weeks sometimes so it would drain back on me. Let me know how this works for you. Hope it helps
John Penk thank you for the advise. No it’s out of warranty now. Only 90 days. My original transmission never did this so I was confused when it happened. I will give it a try and update u. Thanks
John Penk I tried it and no luck. Any other suggestions? Can it be my pump pressure set too low?
John Rosado, I doubt it’s the pump pressure as your trans was fine before, correct? Have you tried changing the fluid and filter? If that doesn’t work you’ll need to take it to a trans shop to have them take a look. How long did you let it run in neutral? Try it again and let it run for a few minutes in neutral and see if that helps. Usually that does the trick. I’m sorry I can’t be more of help. Please keep me posted when you get it sorted out
John Penk I will try that next. I tried cleaning the governor in the tail shaft and no luck. Oil n filter next, I will keep u posted.
😂 mine wasn’t connected no wonder my trans felt like,2nd,1st,3rd. Im an idiot
No I’m sorry, I don’t