Window Sill Repair With Abatron Epoxy
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Steve will goes through the entire process to repair a termite damaged window sill with his Abatron Epoxy Kit. He gives all kinds of little tips and tricks to help it go smooth.
Plus we get two great Steve Stories!
Keep following along at www.woodwindowmakeover.com
Waxed paper makes smoothing and shaping of epoxy putties and Bondo easy. Jut apply the paper and use your fingers or putty knife to tool the surface or any other shaped tool (dowel, reverse molding profile, etc.) to shape the putty/Bondo. The wax paper won’t stick to the material and acts as a lubricant (it’s waxed) to the tool). It’s easiest to remove the waxed paper as soon as the epoxy/Bondo as setup firm. This method leaves the surface of the repair smooth. It also makes making corners very easy as it adds support to the corner on both sides of the repair.
great info & great stories - thanks!!! Super helpful
The buttering technique works because the solvent in the 2 liquid wood components, which is acetone, is dissolving or thinning the upper layer of the wood epox filler. You could just use acetone to do the same thing and it costs less than the liquid wood, but on the other hand, you did have liquid wood left over. You might even have acetone around to clean that chip brush.
Nice! I've used these products and enjoyed them, but never seen the "buttering" trick before to make it more smoothable after application. Good tip!
Great video. I received my kit yesterday and making similar repairs to a window on the pool house today. Thanks!!!
You could tell it was going to be done properly as to the prep job. Nothing half ass here. Quite a jump over some products I have used, like not having to wait on liquid to dry before adding putty. Great video. My culture shock to my son was him being born in 73 and growing up to Hank jr etc. (I am also a fan of his and the type) I gave him a CD of the Platters. Shock and Awe!!!🦇
You just helped me out so much let me go right now and purchase this Abatron
If you put a little rubbing alcohol on your fingers it will not tear and allows for a smooth service. Works awesome!!
I love Devo. When I showed my kids they loved it. Especially Booji Boy in his playpen making toast…….I showed them “Rock Lobster” B52s too…..which they loved when they were little. Rockit Herbie Hancock….Prince Purple Rain….
I filled some holes in a cast iron decoration this afternoon with JB weld. After about 15-20 minutes set time, you can use water to smooth the patch. Just spray mist or paintbrush water over the patch and wipe it smooth.
Great video. Thank you.
I do like the buttering technique, but if you need the wood epox to dry faster, you can just use thinners to smooth it.
I use these products on my old windows. Great stuff.
Thank you for demonstrating! Thanks for sharing your tips too!!
Gladly
Love the video. Really helped my first time using it. I wanted to get pump tops for the liquid but have not been able to find any that fit. Where can I can I some like yours?
Thanks for this! Slightly related but something I’m working on: Is it ever necessary to rejuvenate the wood on a window sash before repairing damage with the epoxy? I’m working on my double-hungs, and the ones in the garage look like they were stained but never primed and painted, so the wood looks considerably drier than the indoor painted ones. The garage is also not conditioned space. I was thinking of using some boiled linseed oil before applying the epoxy. Advice?
That’s a hard call, and one of the down sides of epoxy. Epoxy does a great job of holding everything together, but does nothing to actually rejuvenate the wood. The answer to your question is simply this. It’s one of the other. If you oil it first, the epoxy doesn’t take. And if you epoxy first, the oil cannot penetrate. If you oil it, and oil it good, you could fill any void with Sarco glazing compound, after priming it with oil based primer first. Epoxy repairs, although useful, often mean the end of the road for that sash is imminent - and the last time that sash can be repaired.
Hope that helps
Thank you Sir !
interesting technique.
You like that? I’m surprised to learn how many people haven’t seen that before. I thought everyone did it.
Great tutorial! Thanks!!
What is the liquid you're using for the "butter" and pre-treat?
That’s the LiquidWood epoxy, basically the liquid counterpart to the WoodEpox
tight!
roll and fold
To much talking but not noth work dude
You don't show finished work? SMFH
Shouldn't the product just work? Why is this so popular if you have to hack it? Just tried to install some of this, it turned to crumbly bits and fell off. Here I am learning from people that don't use the product as the manual says to do so. Everything is jerry-rigged, there are no best practices, complete chaos in the cosmos. Back to my project.
If you couldn't get epox to work then you're a Grade A retarded. Smh
I'm surprised that you didn't wait for the (LiquidWood) epoxy to cure prior to applying the WoodEpox. Is waiting for cure helpful... or just a waste of time?
A waste of time.
Good tip. I've been waiting. Takes twice the time to repair stuff when you wait for the liquid to harden before packing it with putty.
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thanks. And, I guess that makes sense because epoxy cure time isn't dependent on the atmosphere... it just depends on the mixture with the oxidizer agent.
@@GrahamSEdwardsThe epoxy cure time is dependent on the temperature which in some cases is the temperature of the atmosphere. I bet the temperature of that sill is pretty much the same as air/atmosphere temperature. I am pretty sure that the hardener is not an oxidizing agent.