This is the smoothest wood repair video i have watched in a long time The old man got to work immediately unlike the others who like to yap yap for a while before showing us how things are done.. Bravo.. i subscribed
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
@@danielhale8884 zero zip nada. Overgrown lilac bush that was cut down maybe. The vid showed exactly what it was meant to. And the fix will last a decade or more; long enough that’ll be time to replace the windows.
@@danielhale8884 yes. What’s wrong with it is that there is a reason it was done with wood in the first place. Why not repair it with wood? Epoxy repairs have their place but this is not one of them.
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
@@bethsabath That tiny hole on the left was probably filled in before he painted. To call it a bad job when you couldn't see the final outcome due to YT ads is unjust.
Great lesson. When I do repairs like this what I do is use the resin to bond the new pieces of wood in place. If you smear the edges of the new block with resin before placing them you can get a good edge to edge seal.
I think google heard us talking about the windowsill -this video just showed up on my feed..I would like to say that I enjoyed the video and appreciate how concise you are-that is why you are paid by the job I am sure!
My sister just had a baby and all of their windows look like and need to be fixed, this is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much, now I can try to fix them for her!
I dealt with the same window rot problem with my 1945 house a few years. The wood hardener was great & gave a nice solid surface. I used a product called PC Woody
My Fiance's home had a rotted wood door frame at the very bottom for one of her detached garage access doors. It was previously filled with some sort of Bondo-like substance, but broke apart when I was shoveling a few years back. It was obviously weakened and the wood was most likely continuing to rot around the filler substance. What did I do? I chipped out as much of the old bondo and rotted wood as possible and filled those suckers up with Great Stuff expanding foam! Cut it down, sanded, and painted. Although the texture is not quite as smooth as the existing wood, nobody ever looked down at the very bottom of the door frame, and it is white to match the rest of the door frame so all is well! I may be the only one to ever use expanding foam as a rotted wood filling product and I'm damn proud of it.
If only I had watched this 2 days ago. I'm going back to my repair to finish it better with what I learned in your vid. I should've been a carpenter not a metal fabricator. Lots to learn
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
I have done quite a bit of repair work like this, and I have seen quite a bit of repair work done by others. It often fails where the resin meets the wood. Someone wrote that it was because the wood and the filler expand and contract to different degrees with changes in temperature. This causes a separation, and cracks appear. It might also be possible that the wood will expand and contract with humidity changes even when it is painted. There resin is impervious to humidity and won't do this. The sill was probably pine. The wood replacement was cedar. The filler was a polyester resin. They all behave differently with humidity and temperature. Personally, I would coat the end of each piece of wood with the wood hardener, even the new wood parts, before any parts are installed. This clogs the capillaries in the wood, helping to stop future rot and helping to stop the wood from expanding and contracting with the humidity. When the tree was alive, the capillaries moved moisture from the roots all the way to the leaves. They are really good at it. The original sill and original trim piece both rotted at the end of each board, where the capillaries were exposed. This is the way it always happens. Instead of Minwax wood hardener, I use a two part epoxy wood hardener from a company in Seattle. The product is Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer or CPES. It is expensive, but I have a lot of experience with it. The Minwax wood hardener and the CPES will make the wood stiffer, helping it to match the hardness of the Bondo. I would say that 50% of the repair jobs I do, have already been repaired once with Bondo which failed.
From my limited experience...it seems like that even after stripping out the rot and hardening and repairing the wood, that there is still moisture in the overall wood piece that can take 1-2 years to dry out......which shrinks it back off the filler, creating a little crack. I have sanded these down and filled them with paint and they have been OK since. I suppose you could skim another filler coat over them aswell, but paint worked well for me. :)
The wood will continue to rot...Dissolve borax powder, in hot water (i use boraxo hand cleaner)and spray or brush into rotted and even good areas for protection against the critters and bacteria that rots the wood.
I use either abatron US or Rino repair Canada. It is oil based epoxy and putty moves with the wood in cold or warm. I can evan make up missing pieces of original trim.
I used a product called "Liquid Wood" that you just added water to and apply. I kepted adding it to large rotting wood hole I had. Easy as pie and lasted a long time till I replaced the window.
Thank you. Great video, and I think you did a wonderful job! It showed everything you could possibly do to fix a rotting window sill bar having to replace the whole thing. Well done.
Instead of the filler I would have tried to use solid wood in the whole area. The filler will react different to the wood with the difference in temperature and himidity, and could easily crack after a year or so. On exposed woood outside its best to keep fillers to an absolute minimum. When I do repeirs like this outside I replace the wood with wood. If the trim is damaged I replace the whole trim iin one piece if possible.
The bottom of my back door was rotted away, so I nailed some pallet wood to it to make a frame around the bottom to use as a mould. I then filled it with glass fibre repair paste, removed the shuttering and it's still as good as new, 20 years later!
This repair will be visibly successful for a couple of years all the while more damage is being done to the surrounding timber and it will end up a bigger more expensive job to repair or even renew.
We did a job exactly like this using the same wood hardener and epoxy 😄 great results, that wood hardener is fantastic stuff! Thanks for some tips for future work, cheers! 👍🏻😀
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
Great show guy. I am have the same problem right now. Had estimates from $500 to 600. You video came at the right time since I am SS. Thanks for such a great video. God Bless. Rex Brazil
Use an oscillating saw for this type cutting. It was made for this very thing. It is a good idea to cut the wood at an angle so the old and new pieces overlap each other. It handles shifting of the house better over time. Prevents your patch seam from cracking
@@chuck7879 i use a johnson level or angle duplicator for these very situations. The wood hardener he used works pretty well but i would have cut all the way through so i wouldnt have the long seam out from under the windows protection. His repair was ok. In most situations like this ill remove the entire board unless im told not to or there are other issues that will make it nonproductive.
Agreed. Where the two vertical wood surfaces meet, the top should be cut at an angle so water runs off and not into the seam. Means water will never leak into the the seam, unless it's able to run uphill.
@@SophisticatedBob you may know of this stuff but in case just in case you get a spot where the bottom few inches are degrading and total removal isn't an option. Minwax wood hardener works quite well providing there's enough there to harden then you can build it up with general purpose body filler and or resin. I got in the habit years ago of covering the bottom foot of the garage frame and trim with marine resin. It gives decades on the life of the exterior wood. I've built the cement up when I could to ramp the water away and keep the wood from contacting the flat areas that soak the moisture up. Ardex erm is one of the best products I've used. Exterior Ramp Mortar. No rebar,no milk, can ramp the surface up to 6" deep down to 1/8" and it will feather. I shared some Intel I created by using latex in my mortar mix to give it more flexibility and still maintain strength. I suggested they explore this. They had issues with finding the sweet spot. It's 19 to 21% if you want to check it out. I've done it on my garage entry in the country. Gravel meets slab with a steep driveway ramping water in. That was 35 years ago and it's still there mounded up like a dam angled down to the gravel.
Unbelievable work of art.. I miss so much this type of high quality skills. I have this similar problem and the tradesman advised to replace the all structure....
Recommend priming the cut ends of the original sill/trim and the replacement wood pieces before assembling the repair. That will reduce absorption of moisture into the wood that could affect the long-term integrity of the repair.
I was thinking the same thing as he disassembled the rotten pieces. Can almost guarantee that the original end pieces were not primed. Only takes a couple of minutes, but unfortunately most carpenters don't do it.
Home barely-competent DIYer here, glad I'm not the only one who thought of pre-priming before installing. Last year I had to repair some damage to the garage and primed the wood before screwing it in. It just seemed easier at the time.
Ron: It's good to see U R still around. I just ran into your Tube channel. I used to watch U when U were on the left coast as the House Dr. Got smart and moved out of Cal????????
Exactly this. For the price of this 'specialist' wood filler you can buy ten times the volume of car body filler. It is absolutely the same stuff. You're going to paint it anyway.
My pink Bondo came from the automotive section of Menards. It lists wood right on the can. So for all the naysayers Bondo is LISTED for use on wood. I plan to try a few different stabilizers on some rotted 2x4 scraps that I have. I'm thinking way thinned down polyurethane just pored to refusal and I might try some fiberglass resin also... I have to read some cans. I can say the min wax hardener works, I used it on some pretty sketch wood... probably could have dug it out with my fingernails.
Yes. Ian Hayes is right. "For the price of this 'specialist' wood filler you can buy ten times the volume of car body filler. It is absolutely the same stuff. You're going to paint it anyway."
Run some long screws into that hole just below the surface, give that putty something to grip. Prime paint all of it including the back and the joints on both sides before you nail anything. Fast drying exterior primer will dry in five minutes. Place caulk inside of the joints before you push them together, wipe off the excess. Use Bondo auto body filler. Same thing much cheaper. You can buy it by the gallon at Walmart for $16.
Yo are exactly correct. if you dont use the screws, eventually that putty will break loose as it has nothing to hold onto. Also. if anyone thinks he sanded all that bondo (wood filler) down by hand. i know of a nice bridge in Brooklyn I can sell you. use a power sander. Lastly. instead of using bondo to do the final fill in those cracks between the old wood and the new. instead use a quality exterior spackle. Ace hardware sells the best with a product called "Synkoloid Exterior Spackling Paste 01204". It sands as easily as sheetrock spackle and when dry will even resist rain unprimed
Plastic auto body filler is pourous and allows moisture to penetrate. "Bondo" is a brand. We hope that fillers for homes/structures are water proof. In auto body, filler is applied in a thin coat, because thick cakes crack from torque and vibration. Perhaps, the expanding, contracting, and shearing forces of a wooden house raise the similar challenges to thick cakes of filler. The ethical contractors should share their insight.
@@aguilayserpiente I am reputable and ethical contractor with over 45 years of experience. I have used both and find little to no practical difference between the "Bondo" brand two part auto filler and the "Minwax" brand two part wood filler. there is far far greater torque and vibration experienced with cars than homes. Inles perhaps you live in an area prone to earth quakes LOL. When used as described above (screws or nails into the sound surrounding wood) each works just as well the other. At least until a more proper replacement is done. There are a few reasons however that I have seen each fail and none have to do with one two part product being any better suited then the other. One common is the reality is the entire area needed to be replaced and the customer was unwilling for whatever reason to do the proper more extensive repair. Or the cause of the moisture entering the area wasn't truly located or addressed. As a result. the area next to the repair then rotted. Unfortunately. Those customers unwilling to splurge for the proper repair usually aren't featured in videos...or at least that's not what the audience is told. Another reason is because the screws into the surrounding sound area aren't used and because neither filler really doesn't bond to the surrounding wood. you end up with the same effect as if you had inserted a piece of wood without nailing or screwing it into place then yes the repair will crack and separate. You need a way to anchor the repair. Think of it like when a dentist puts a post in a really bad tooth. The post is what holds the filling in place against the forces from chewing. Remember. Wood is porous too. The posts (screws) also help in any movement happens in unison with one another because its all attached. I prefer screws over nails because screws have more grab and are less likely to pull out. In the video above I would have used 3-4 screws into the surrounding solid wood 2 extending into the wood below the window and 1-2 to the side about half way in but below the surface of the patch. And finish as described in my post above with a quality exterior spackle which is far easier to sand. then prime and paint.
@@TMendez528 Thank you for sharing. It is exactly what I thought- plastic filler on a house is temporary. In the automotive setting the plastic is sealed on all sides, excluding moisture, unlike the house, where the back and sides of the plastic are subject to moisture infiltration. Best regards.
Bondo isn't the same thing. The minwax compound and similar products move with the wood and create a permanent bond. Bondo doesn't stick nearly as well and won't flex, resulting in cracks and failure over time. It can still work, just not quite as well.
Squirrels chewed a huge portion of my 100 year old detailed trim. I thought I was going to have to have the whole piece replaced (about $600 to tool the piece to shape the trim, then the cost of the wood, and the cost of having someone install it). I found these products and used them instead. Used some foam to fill the gaps behind the trim, and then used the filler bit by bit to fill in the missing wood and shaped it before it set too hard. Even before it was painted it looked fantastic. It's been over 5 years and still looks perfect.
@@jamesmcinnis208 I used the minwax filler mentioned here and greatsuff spray foam to fill the gaps before putting the putty in place. It hasn't shrunk or gapped in 5 years. You can't tell there was ever anything wrong with the trim. The foam doesn't have to be shaped perfectly, it just need to be trimmed back so you have room to put putty over it and still shape it correctly.
He managed to get filler underneath the tape about an inch below where he was working and another 3 inches below that . No amount of tape was going to protect that siding from Michelangelo here and he knew it. Don't throw good tape after bad..
Thanks this is exactly what I need to do on a garage eve facia board. It will save me replacing the entire board (really long with difficult spots) and will save $$ and time.
if you want the patch to last long, put that wood harder on all sides of patch piece and on all the cuts and inside pieces. Per the instructions the wood harder is to be applied repeatedly until the wood stops absorbing. Its like 5 - 6 coats.
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
Ommg! Thank-you! Hak you! My friend and I replaced a rotten window sill. And one of my windows has some rot on the corner this look easier than replacing a window.
Very good video. It's exactly what I needed to know and will solve a major problem of mine. I do't understand all of the criticisms. They just have to look at the finished product.
The last time I used that much hardener I had to pay child support. Lol. If i attempted to do this DIY it would look like Wolverine tried to fix a window. Good job, Ron, you are a wood putty picasso!
Wow, the tools involved, the wood filler 2x application, the nail gun, plainer, chisels, drying time, paint, etc. Why wouldn’t it be easier (and cheaper) to replace the whole sill and that one side of trim...?
Great video! I have a window with dry rot in our window well, I was really concerned about replacing the whole window and now I just my repair the part that has rotted.
I was gonna fix my wood columns outside the house. Once I saw you cut and remove the rotted wood, I mentally gave up on that idea. You made it look easy.
Love the hand tools- saw. Great video, step by step. Except dry rot is really wood rot due to fungi and moisture. Also, why not use pressure treated wood?
Except that if this really was DRY ROT one should strip back the area considerably further than shown and treat the area with fungicide in order to eliminate the DRY ROT infestation.
Nice job. I am a carpenter/joiner by trade and like your sequence of working. However, one question I have is,'Is this dry rot or wet rot' as wet rot usually occurs at the base of timber door and window frames.
Great video with a beautiful result. You've got all the right tools. Masking the area better would give you less cleanup at the end, but the result is very good. Thank you.
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
Wet rot but not dry rot, dry rot would have a mushroom like growth near by with a root structure, and then you can cut away anything within a meter of its roots as spours from it could mean it will spread again. Dry rot is the monster feeding its self with any moisture it can find, that's why timber turns to dust, in that case you must find the beast or it will just destroy everything.
Suspect wet rot, not dry rot. Both can look similar, but it would be odd to see dry rot on exterior timber, unless it had penetrated from inside the building - if which case this would not be solving the source of the problem. Nice finished result.
I have to compliment you on how swiftly you tell the story, and teach. Not a lot of chat at the front. Excellent!
I think this comes from all his years on TV which had definite time restraints.
Straight to the point.
@@luxman9463 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
This is the smoothest wood repair video i have watched in a long time
The old man got to work immediately unlike the others who like to yap yap for a while before showing us how things are done..
Bravo.. i subscribed
Old man? He's cute!
This is why the oscillating multi-tool has been such an amazing tool for a homeowner. It makes tasks like this a breeze.
That's exactly what I thought at the moment he said "I wasn't able to cut all the way though..."
THANK YOU !!! for not dragging out in endless verbiage to the point and got the job done.
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
@@edwardl.990 say they fixed the water issue.
And instead of replacing the window you do this.
Anything wrong with that?
@@danielhale8884 zero zip nada. Overgrown lilac bush that was cut down maybe. The vid showed exactly what it was meant to.
And the fix will last a decade or more; long enough that’ll be time to replace the windows.
@@danielhale8884 yes. What’s wrong with it is that there is a reason it was done with wood in the first place. Why not repair it with wood? Epoxy repairs have their place but this is not one of them.
I know, right, I not longer have the attention span to stay with the over detailed talkers 🥴
I like the brevity of your video. You showed us, without dragging it out. Thank you. Nice vid! I subscribed!
4:23 - And didnt fix the hole beside. Bad job !!
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
@@bethsabath That tiny hole on the left was probably filled in before he painted. To call it a bad job when you couldn't see the final outcome due to YT ads is unjust.
@scott garris In what way, and it's sued, not "sewed."
It’s amazing what you can do when you know how!
Great lesson. When I do repairs like this what I do is use the resin to bond the new pieces of wood in place. If you smear the edges of the new block with resin before placing them you can get a good edge to edge seal.
I did something similar and 10 years later, its still perfect
Excellent video. Short, clear, and practical. Thank you for the obvious care you put into production.
I think google heard us talking about the windowsill -this video just showed up on my feed..I would like to say that I enjoyed the video and appreciate how concise you are-that is why you are paid by the job I am sure!
My sister just had a baby and all of their windows look like and need to be fixed, this is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much, now I can try to fix them for her!
A great presentation. Brief and straight to the point, without a lot of chatter.
Great video I love how you explain it slowly and smooth very straight forward without lots of drama! Very well done
This is by far the easiest solution I've found this far. Congrats on beating 'This Old House's when it comes to this job.
Quick. Efficient. To the point. Good job.
Love this. Direct, to-the-point, clear, and comprehensible -- without a lot of superfluous chatter.
You are my new best friend! Thanks for showing me how to do this!
Great video, each step is explained in a nice short manner
Looks pretty good to me! Never heard of the wood hardener before. That's interesting. I've got some dry rot to repair good info.
I dealt with the same window rot problem with my 1945 house a few years. The wood hardener was great & gave a nice solid surface. I used a product called PC Woody
My Fiance's home had a rotted wood door frame at the very bottom for one of her detached garage access doors. It was previously filled with some sort of Bondo-like substance, but broke apart when I was shoveling a few years back. It was obviously weakened and the wood was most likely continuing to rot around the filler substance.
What did I do? I chipped out as much of the old bondo and rotted wood as possible and filled those suckers up with Great Stuff expanding foam! Cut it down, sanded, and painted. Although the texture is not quite as smooth as the existing wood, nobody ever looked down at the very bottom of the door frame, and it is white to match the rest of the door frame so all is well!
I may be the only one to ever use expanding foam as a rotted wood filling product and I'm damn proud of it.
Looks great, Ron! I have made similar repairs for my customers and on my own house.👍
This video is an awesome addition to my knowledge library.... Thank you so much for sharing.
If only I had watched this 2 days ago. I'm going back to my repair to finish it better with what I learned in your vid.
I should've been a carpenter not a metal fabricator. Lots to learn
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
I have done quite a bit of repair work like this, and I have seen quite a bit of repair work done by others. It often fails where the resin meets the wood. Someone wrote that it was because the wood and the filler expand and contract to different degrees with changes in temperature. This causes a separation, and cracks appear. It might also be possible that the wood will expand and contract with humidity changes even when it is painted. There resin is impervious to humidity and won't do this. The sill was probably pine. The wood replacement was cedar. The filler was a polyester resin. They all behave differently with humidity and temperature. Personally, I would coat the end of each piece of wood with the wood hardener, even the new wood parts, before any parts are installed. This clogs the capillaries in the wood, helping to stop future rot and helping to stop the wood from expanding and contracting with the humidity. When the tree was alive, the capillaries moved moisture from the roots all the way to the leaves. They are really good at it. The original sill and original trim piece both rotted at the end of each board, where the capillaries were exposed. This is the way it always happens. Instead of Minwax wood hardener, I use a two part epoxy wood hardener from a company in Seattle. The product is Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer or CPES. It is expensive, but I have a lot of experience with it. The Minwax wood hardener and the CPES will make the wood stiffer, helping it to match the hardness of the Bondo. I would say that 50% of the repair jobs I do, have already been repaired once with Bondo which failed.
Bondo and Minwax are the same thing. To rigid and do not bond to the wood. Abatron is the best stuff going
From my limited experience...it seems like that even after stripping out the rot and hardening and repairing the wood, that there is still moisture in the overall wood piece that can take 1-2 years to dry out......which shrinks it back off the filler, creating a little crack. I have sanded these down and filled them with paint and they have been OK since. I suppose you could skim another filler coat over them aswell, but paint worked well for me. :)
The wood will continue to rot...Dissolve borax powder, in hot water (i use boraxo hand cleaner)and spray or brush into rotted and even good areas for protection against the critters and bacteria that rots the wood.
Interesting, thanks for the info. But the point is that the repair is better than nothing and should last many years here, if I'm not mistaken.
I use either abatron US or Rino repair Canada. It is oil based epoxy and putty moves with the wood in cold or warm. I can evan make up missing pieces of original trim.
Great video, thanks for sharing that. Our house was built in 1900 and has a few issues but videos like this make our weekend job alot easier. Thanks
I used a product called "Liquid Wood" that you just added water to and apply. I kepted adding it to large rotting wood hole I had. Easy as pie and lasted a long time till I replaced the window.
The best part is that cool Japanese saw at the beginning.
Thank you. Great video, and I think you did a wonderful job! It showed everything you could possibly do to fix a rotting window sill bar having to replace the whole thing. Well done.
Great job. One of the best video I've seen on the topic.
Instead of the filler I would have tried to use solid wood in the whole area. The filler will react different to the wood with the difference in temperature and himidity, and could easily crack after a year or so. On exposed woood outside its best to keep fillers to an absolute minimum. When I do repeirs like this outside I replace the wood with wood. If the trim is damaged I replace the whole trim iin one piece if possible.
You make sense
Is this your experience with wood fillers?
@@kottelkannim4919 Yes they often crack, specially if it’s thick layers.
What do I think? Half the final shot is covered by links to the channel and another video so I can't really see :)
Blame TH-cam for having a terrible ideas team.
life is not a beer commercial. looks like a commercial for minwax if you ask me.
@@TheMeanArena agreed
Yes, I had a problem with that, too.
because he can't paint. or fill well by the looks of it. But he did a good job fixing it mind
I did the same thing years ago (2013) only I used body filler. Been perfect ever since and will never rot!
if you run over a rock and dent a rim, you replace the rim instead of buying a new car. hope that was simple enough for you
yup excellent video. no unecesary guff.
That wood filler he used is literally the exact same thing. It just has different tints added and in a different container.
@@jayer-su3hu yep, and more expensive in smaller tins, I use car bodyfiller for loads of jobs 💪🏼
The bottom of my back door was rotted away, so I nailed some pallet wood to it to make a frame around the bottom to use as a mould. I then filled it with glass fibre repair paste, removed the shuttering and it's still as good as new, 20 years later!
Purrfect. Just what I needed. Thanks for sharing
This repair will be visibly successful for a couple of years all the while more damage is being done to the surrounding timber and it will end up a bigger more expensive job to repair or even renew.
We did a job exactly like this using the same wood hardener and epoxy 😄 great results, that wood hardener is fantastic stuff! Thanks for some tips for future work, cheers! 👍🏻😀
Bondo
Thx Ron, I had no idea those products even existed. Hope you get a kick back from supplier for advertising. Great vid , keep it up
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
Great show guy. I am have the same problem right now. Had estimates from $500 to 600. You video came at the right time since I am SS.
Thanks for such a great video. God Bless. Rex Brazil
Use an oscillating saw for this type cutting. It was made for this very thing. It is a good idea to cut the wood at an angle so the old and new pieces overlap each other. It handles shifting of the house better over time. Prevents your patch seam from cracking
how are you going to match that angle?
@@chuck7879 i use a johnson level or angle duplicator for these very situations. The wood hardener he used works pretty well but i would have cut all the way through so i wouldnt have the long seam out from under the windows protection. His repair was ok. In most situations like this ill remove the entire board unless im told not to or there are other issues that will make it nonproductive.
Agreed. Where the two vertical wood surfaces meet, the top should be cut at an angle so water runs off and not into the seam. Means water will never leak into the the seam, unless it's able to run uphill.
@@SophisticatedBob you may know of this stuff but in case just in case you get a spot where the bottom few inches are degrading and total removal isn't an option. Minwax wood hardener works quite well providing there's enough there to harden then you can build it up with general purpose body filler and or resin. I got in the habit years ago of covering the bottom foot of the garage frame and trim with marine resin. It gives decades on the life of the exterior wood. I've built the cement up when I could to ramp the water away and keep the wood from contacting the flat areas that soak the moisture up. Ardex erm is one of the best products I've used. Exterior Ramp Mortar. No rebar,no milk, can ramp the surface up to 6" deep down to 1/8" and it will feather. I shared some Intel I created by using latex in my mortar mix to give it more flexibility and still maintain strength. I suggested they explore this. They had issues with finding the sweet spot. It's 19 to 21% if you want to check it out. I've done it on my garage entry in the country. Gravel meets slab with a steep driveway ramping water in. That was 35 years ago and it's still there mounded up like a dam angled down to the gravel.
Good job.I thought I was the only one using that method. Saves time,money and my nerves.
Great video, have almost exactly same thing on a large front window that needs this. Very helpful, thank you.
Unbelievable work of art.. I miss so much this type of high quality skills. I have this similar problem and the tradesman advised to replace the all structure....
Looks good!Thanks for the demo!
I replaced the sill at my Mom’s house as it was badly rotted. The preparation is everything.
Recommend priming the cut ends of the original sill/trim and the replacement wood pieces before assembling the repair. That will reduce absorption of moisture into the wood that could affect the long-term integrity of the repair.
its cedar
@@joshusanders3127 yea… it’ll rot eventually when the persistent moisture that exists there finds its way in.
I was thinking the same thing as he disassembled the rotten pieces. Can almost guarantee that the original end pieces were not primed. Only takes a couple of minutes, but unfortunately most carpenters don't do it.
Home barely-competent DIYer here, glad I'm not the only one who thought of pre-priming before installing. Last year I had to repair some damage to the garage and primed the wood before screwing it in. It just seemed easier at the time.
@@jb888888888 What is the material used to prime? Are you guys talking about paint primer or some sort of other chemical?
Ron: It's good to see U R still around. I just ran into your Tube channel. I used to watch U when U were on the left coast as the House Dr. Got smart and moved out of Cal????????
High performance wood filler is just auto bondo of a wood tinted color.
Exactly this. For the price of this 'specialist' wood filler you can buy ten times the volume of car body filler. It is absolutely the same stuff. You're going to paint it anyway.
Bondo sells a similar epoxy product just for wood.
@@williamwinder3466 ...to make an extra buck.
My pink Bondo came from the automotive section of Menards. It lists wood right on the can. So for all the naysayers Bondo is LISTED for use on wood. I plan to try a few different stabilizers on some rotted 2x4 scraps that I have. I'm thinking way thinned down polyurethane just pored to refusal and I might try some fiberglass resin also... I have to read some cans. I can say the min wax hardener works, I used it on some pretty sketch wood... probably could have dug it out with my fingernails.
Yes.
Ian Hayes is right. "For the price of this 'specialist' wood filler you can buy ten times the volume of car body filler. It is absolutely the same stuff. You're going to paint it anyway."
Great to see a real skilled person doing this type of work,no bull about what to do ,just does it,great job thanks for showing. Paul Walsh .ireland.
That was a really good tutorial on rot repair, thanks for sharing
Straight to the point. I was thinking about replacing a window but this changed it all.
Run some long screws into that hole just below the surface, give that putty something to grip.
Prime paint all of it including the back and the joints on both sides before you nail anything.
Fast drying exterior primer will dry in five minutes.
Place caulk inside of the joints before you push them together, wipe off the excess.
Use Bondo auto body filler. Same thing much cheaper.
You can buy it by the gallon at Walmart for $16.
Yo are exactly correct. if you dont use the screws, eventually that putty will break loose as it has nothing to hold onto. Also. if anyone thinks he sanded all that bondo (wood filler) down by hand. i know of a nice bridge in Brooklyn I can sell you. use a power sander. Lastly. instead of using bondo to do the final fill in those cracks between the old wood and the new. instead use a quality exterior spackle. Ace hardware sells the best with a product called "Synkoloid Exterior Spackling Paste 01204". It sands as easily as sheetrock spackle and when dry will even resist rain unprimed
Plastic auto body filler is pourous and allows moisture to penetrate. "Bondo" is a brand. We hope that fillers for homes/structures are water proof. In auto body, filler is applied in a thin coat, because thick cakes crack from torque and vibration. Perhaps, the expanding, contracting, and shearing forces of a wooden house raise the similar challenges to thick cakes of filler. The ethical contractors should share their insight.
@@aguilayserpiente I am reputable and ethical contractor with over 45 years of experience. I have used both and find little to no practical difference between the "Bondo" brand two part auto filler and the "Minwax" brand two part wood filler. there is far far greater torque and vibration experienced with cars than homes. Inles perhaps you live in an area prone to earth quakes LOL. When used as described above (screws or nails into the sound surrounding wood) each works just as well the other. At least until a more proper replacement is done.
There are a few reasons however that I have seen each fail and none have to do with one two part product being any better suited then the other. One common is the reality is the entire area needed to be replaced and the customer was unwilling for whatever reason to do the proper more extensive repair. Or the cause of the moisture entering the area wasn't truly located or addressed. As a result. the area next to the repair then rotted. Unfortunately. Those customers unwilling to splurge for the proper repair usually aren't featured in videos...or at least that's not what the audience is told. Another reason is because the screws into the surrounding sound area aren't used and because neither filler really doesn't bond to the surrounding wood. you end up with the same effect as if you had inserted a piece of wood without nailing or screwing it into place then yes the repair will crack and separate. You need a way to anchor the repair. Think of it like when a dentist puts a post in a really bad tooth. The post is what holds the filling in place against the forces from chewing.
Remember. Wood is porous too. The posts (screws) also help in any movement happens in unison with one another because its all attached. I prefer screws over nails because screws have more grab and are less likely to pull out. In the video above I would have used 3-4 screws into the surrounding solid wood 2 extending into the wood below the window and 1-2 to the side about half way in but below the surface of the patch. And finish as described in my post above with a quality exterior spackle which is far easier to sand. then prime and paint.
@@TMendez528 Thank you for sharing. It is exactly what I thought- plastic filler on a house is temporary. In the automotive setting the plastic is sealed on all sides, excluding moisture, unlike the house, where the back and sides of the plastic are subject to moisture infiltration. Best regards.
Bondo isn't the same thing. The minwax compound and similar products move with the wood and create a permanent bond. Bondo doesn't stick nearly as well and won't flex, resulting in cracks and failure over time. It can still work, just not quite as well.
Excellent instructions. I have the exact problem in a couple of places, and now I know how to tackle them. Thanks.
Squirrels chewed a huge portion of my 100 year old detailed trim. I thought I was going to have to have the whole piece replaced (about $600 to tool the piece to shape the trim, then the cost of the wood, and the cost of having someone install it). I found these products and used them instead. Used some foam to fill the gaps behind the trim, and then used the filler bit by bit to fill in the missing wood and shaped it before it set too hard. Even before it was painted it looked fantastic. It's been over 5 years and still looks perfect.
Would you mind giving the name of the products you used? I have some wood repair projects ahead of me.
@@jamesmcinnis208 I used the minwax filler mentioned here and greatsuff spray foam to fill the gaps before putting the putty in place. It hasn't shrunk or gapped in 5 years. You can't tell there was ever anything wrong with the trim. The foam doesn't have to be shaped perfectly, it just need to be trimmed back so you have room to put putty over it and still shape it correctly.
@@Sypherz Thank you!
I wish everyone would get to the point like you just did. BRAVO! Now do you want to fix my rotten windows? I wish.
He tapes to protect the siding from the first coat of filler, then just makes a big mess with the second coat, the gap fill, and everything else
He managed to get filler underneath the tape about an inch below where he was working and another 3 inches below that . No amount of tape was going to protect that siding from Michelangelo here and he knew it. Don't throw good tape after bad..
He’s gonna sand and paint anyway, the blue tape was to minimize the mess.
******LMFAO****** When i saw that...WTF
@@preago he needed to use latex caulk to seal the masking tape from seepage.
Then his paint job was a mess.
Brilliant. Succinct and clear. Thank you from the UK.
Thanks this is exactly what I need to do on a garage eve facia board. It will save me replacing the entire board (really long with difficult spots) and will save $$ and time.
if you want the patch to last long, put that wood harder on all sides of patch piece and on all the cuts and inside pieces. Per the instructions the wood harder is to be applied repeatedly until the wood stops absorbing. Its like 5 - 6 coats.
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
Ommg! Thank-you! Hak you! My friend and I replaced a rotten window sill. And one of my windows has some rot on the corner this look easier than replacing a window.
Looks like you did a very thorough job. Thanks for the vid
Lots of thanks. Make it look so simple and easy. Now I will not be hassle by wood repairman.
Very good video. It's exactly what I needed to know and will solve a major problem of mine.
I do't understand all of the criticisms. They just have to look at the finished product.
The last time I used that much hardener I had to pay child support. Lol. If i attempted to do this DIY it would look like Wolverine tried to fix a window. Good job, Ron, you are a wood putty picasso!
Very. Smart and common sense approach
Wow, the tools involved, the wood filler 2x application, the nail gun, plainer, chisels, drying time, paint, etc. Why wouldn’t it be easier (and cheaper) to replace the whole sill and that one side of trim...?
Not everyone knows how to do it.
It is a lot of work to replace a sill in an existing window.
You sir are a real artist ! 👍
very nice, liked it...now ill just wait to get enough money to buy a house so I can have something to repair
jlei8aX
Hahahahahahha
Lol. You probably have your house plus several rent houses.
Great video! I have a window with dry rot in our window well, I was really concerned about replacing the whole window and now I just my repair the part that has rotted.
This is not dry rot. This is wet rot that is dry. A completely different problem.
Glad I found your video cause I have a termite damage plank in my flooring that I need to repair and
this info is useful, Thanks
haters be like
"the only right way to do this job is to replace the entire outer wall"
I would replace the whole house, but Might try this technique first.
Thanks sir for sharing your knowledge. God bless you
Saved my life! Power tool free perfect repair. Thanks for making this
Thank you very much for your repair show.
I was gonna fix my wood columns outside the house. Once I saw you cut and remove the rotted wood, I mentally gave up on that idea. You made it look easy.
This was an amazing and satisfying watch. Thank you.
with wood, you should use a flexible filler as wood shrinks. if you use a hard filler the wood shrinks and the filler does not, what do you get a GAP.
Wow! Excellent job thank you for sharing
Ron, why didn't you place wood filler behind the upright 1x4 piece like you did with the piece below?
It would block the drainage
@@felixyoghurt3291 Thank-you!
Thanks for sharing - many tips in the one video - am jealous of all your tools :)
jeez, where do I find people with your level of finish?
Love the hand tools- saw. Great video, step by step. Except dry rot is really wood rot due to fungi and moisture.
Also, why not use pressure treated wood?
It worked beautifully many thanks 👍
Right on Ronnie
Nice looking end result. Good with his hands.
Except that if this really was DRY ROT one should strip back the area considerably further than shown and treat the area with fungicide in order to eliminate the DRY ROT infestation.
I think sometimes people say "dry rot" when they mean ordinary rot because it sounds fancier.
As long as water can’t continue to penetrate into the wood, the rot will not continue.
Excellent renovation of wood thanks_to
Nice video, same method I use repairing rust on vehicle panel.
Good job. Thanks
Thank you, this technique worked perfectly and saved me a ton of time...looks good as new!
Nice job. I am a carpenter/joiner by trade and like your sequence of working. However, one question I have is,'Is this dry rot or wet rot' as wet rot usually occurs at the base of timber door and window frames.
Great video great knowledge
Amazing ...... I really cannot wait to watch more videos
Surely for cost it would be easier and cheaper just to replace the two bits of wood.
The up right yes.The sill not so much
I think you did a good job fixing the window never mind the negative comments. It will last a long tine.
I'm so glad I saw this. I would have just moved.
Hahaha
Moving would have been easier compared to the way this guy did this
Master Craftsman at work
Great video with a beautiful result. You've got all the right tools. Masking the area better would give you less cleanup at the end, but the result is very good. Thank you.
As a contractor myself, I hate when people like you teach others how to "fix" something improperly! This is a hack job at best! You ignore the real issue, which is why water settled in that corner of the window and rotted the wood. Then you complicate the repair by using expensive epoxy instead of just replacing the corner with actual wood. This is a mess that you are leaving for the next owner of that home! TH-cam watchers, DO NOT do this
been wondering how to sort that out!! thank you
That's one way of covering up the real issues and pass the water problem on to the next person.
@Mac MFer... What ever cheapskate!
@Mac MFer ... That was really funny. You must be fairy smart.
Fix the water issue first and then go for the repair
Isn't that wet rot not dry rot !
@@matthewsmith6931maybe they did fix it?
Awesome videos people, keep up the awesome work people, you're welcome people!
Wet rot but not dry rot, dry rot would have a mushroom like growth near by with a root structure, and then you can cut away anything within a meter of its roots as spours from it could mean it will spread again. Dry rot is the monster feeding its self with any moisture it can find, that's why timber turns to dust, in that case you must find the beast or it will just destroy everything.
Suspect wet rot, not dry rot. Both can look similar, but it would be odd to see dry rot on exterior timber, unless it had penetrated from inside the building - if which case this would not be solving the source of the problem. Nice finished result.
It’s wet rot.