Bob, I found this info on the interweb and thought I would pass it on. To make the non A model work on all 4 megs. HW-2036 (not the A model) You can convert your original HW-2036 2 meter rig to tune all 4 MHz by simply: Open up the radio. Remove the cover from the VCO and turn the board over. Remove the varactor tuning diode 'C2' in the VCO (Motorola part MV2107). Replace with a Motorola MV2110. Follow the instructions on page 115 of your assembly instruction manual. Tune the VCO according to the VCO Adjustment section of the manual, changing only the midpoint frequency to the middle of the 4 MHz range you now wish to cover. You may need to retune the receiver, transmitter and RF amplifier to cover the new, wider range. 73's Moe Knight NT7 I gave credit to Moe for this info. Carl
Great video, this was the 1st rig a camp counselor had and let me talk on when I was a teenager in 1976, sadly he was only there a day and I never met another Ham until after I became one. I had often wanted one, and this inspired me to get one on eBay. It's nice looking with the power supply, but no Xmit. Traced it to a blown driver and got it out. Getting ready to order one now...
Bob, don't forget to tell them that, if they have DTMF (touch tone) mic, be sure to remove the 9V battery from it before storing the unit. Also, these guys are real FM not phase modulation. The audio out of these radios is superb!
In the early 90’s, my Elmer let me use one of these radios! I had a Commodore 64 with a World Chip modem I built. I can’t remember the name of the software, but it was that setup, with a 13 ele beam, that I made my first contact with MIR!
Bob, like others here, I thoroughly enjoy your videos. My Jones was for the old Icom IC-22S vhf radios frim a couple of years earlier. At one point I had restored and owned 12 of 'em. The trick was to pick them up cheap at swap meets and rewire the feed throughs on the synthesizer board and they would be good as new. Best receiver of that era! 71/72 de k6whp dit dit
Yes the IC22S a great rig I remember when it came out it was $249.00 or something like that . I drove all the way to a big Hamfest to buy one and they were all sold out at all the vendors that 22S was a popular rig 73 Bob
@@robertsumption1243, sounds about right! About 5 years ago, I picked up one that was NIB ss in unbroken seal, etc. The guy wanted $100 but I couldn't pass it up for my collection. You know, like the guys who but unbuilt Heathkirs? Keep up the great work, Bob!
@@warplanner8852 Thank you for your comments That would be fun finding one in an un-opened sealed box and then assembling it makes a guy wonder who bought it and why it was never assembled ... I really enjoyed assembling Heathkits the first one was a AR3 receiver when I was 15 .
Brings back memories for me. Bob. I found construction faults and fixed about 3 or 4 of them for other hams, scraped my $$ together and ordered one for myself. Got it on a Friday, started on it after dinner and had it on the air by noon Saturday. Worked great for years until it was caught up in a lightning strike I suffered at the home QTH. 73 - WB8FEQ
Yes repairing them at Heathkit about half of them had solder bridges, unsoldered connections or very loose hardware . I had this one shown here on 145.8 running 24/7 for several days and heard the Space Station twice with it . 73 Bob
Another great video Bob! I really enjoy your channel. A little constructive recommendation.if you could zoom in on the where you are pointing on the circuit, it would be more helpful. I'm getting "old eyes". Thanks and look forward to your next vid!
Thanks for this! working on my old 2036A and also a purchased old 2036. Wonder if you have any ideas why receiver sensitiy would be rather poor on the 2036. Its not dead but way down on a given signal compared to my good 2036A.
Hi Bob, I got one a couple weeks ago that was listed as DEAD. It sure was and I had to repair every board and wire ends. I have all boards working but the PA. Must have been built by a new kit builder. Look like lots of people have had a go at it also. It is transmitting and receiving now but just low power output. Thank you for this video. Carl, AB1ZI
I had the xtal version given to me with the driver and final out. Bought over sea replacement and now works fine. Got off ebay if that happens to be the problem. If they shorted the final during installation. Just a thought.
I'm glad I came across this video! My first VHF rig is a 2036A that I still have along with the 2036-3 power supply and a spare 2036A. I really think it's time to pull them off the shelf in the loft and resurrect them. Any concerns as to the life expectancy of the caps after about 25 years in storage?
ZD 101 is cracked on mine. It won’t stay keyed up . I’m hoping this is why. I’m thinking zener diode was there. The casing is gone just 2 wire stubs. These radios are built so nice I think a car running over it would only scratch it up.
Bob, I am trying to align receive section of my radio, but I don't get any movement of the S-meter while adjusting the coils! I went over the instructions many times to be sure I have proceeded correctly. Where am I going wrong? Everything has checked okay up until this section. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks, Greg
Always love your videos Bob!!! You really bring a lot of excellent and rare info to us. ANy comments on the later 2 Meter xceiver Heath came out with after the 2036 series. It was the VF 7401, I think. Was it a better design? 73, Glenn WA4AOS
Great info! I'm working on one that I got free. Do you by chance know what the meter movement is? Mine is broken beyond repair. I'm guessing 0-1 ma full scale. 73s KB4GO
How do you change the PL tone frequency ? I picked one up in great condition but cannot figure out how to put the tones in for the repeaters in my area.
Having a problem with mine. After some warm up, the synth lock goes on and TP401 voltage climbs to 4 v or more and unable to adjust. After cool down all works again for several hours. Also as unit warms the TP401 voltage slowly climbs.
sounds like you have a temperature sensitive component there most likely in the little VCO box (voltage controlled oscillator ) I would take the cover off of that box turn on the Hw2036A wait for it to go out or use a hair dryer to heat it and then blow on the various components with one of those little blow cans used to blow dust out of a computer If it comes back on then you have found the temperature sensitive component or part . You can also use Freeze Mist sold in electronic stores to do this BUT the computer dusting spray cans are much easier to find and cheaper too. Good luck ! Bob
Adding silicone grease to connector contacts? Not sure that is such a good idea. Tube of grease .must state that silicone is made for this kind of thing. Might be doing more harm than good. I'll wait for more comments on this from anyone. Other than that, very nice video, O.M..
Bob, I found this info on the interweb and thought I would pass it on.
To make the non A model work on all 4 megs.
HW-2036 (not the A model)
You can convert your original HW-2036 2 meter rig to tune all 4 MHz by simply:
Open up the radio. Remove the cover from the VCO and turn the board over.
Remove the varactor tuning diode 'C2' in the VCO (Motorola part MV2107).
Replace with a Motorola MV2110.
Follow the instructions on page 115 of your assembly instruction manual. Tune the VCO according to the VCO Adjustment section of the manual, changing only the midpoint frequency to the middle of the 4 MHz range you now wish to cover.
You may need to retune the receiver, transmitter and RF amplifier to cover the new, wider range.
73's
Moe Knight
NT7
I gave credit to Moe for this info. Carl
Great video, this was the 1st rig a camp counselor had and let me talk on when I was a teenager in 1976, sadly he was only there a day and I never met another Ham until after I became one. I had often wanted one, and this inspired me to get one on eBay. It's nice looking with the power supply, but no Xmit. Traced it to a blown driver and got it out. Getting ready to order one now...
Bob, don't forget to tell them that, if they have DTMF (touch tone) mic, be sure to remove the 9V battery from it before storing the unit. Also, these guys are real FM not phase modulation. The audio out of these radios is superb!
In the early 90’s, my Elmer let me use one of these radios! I had a Commodore 64 with a World Chip modem I built. I can’t remember the name of the software, but it was that setup, with a 13 ele beam, that I made my first contact with MIR!
Thanks for the video..my son brought me one of these home from the flea market..super clean..now I know what it is
Bob, like others here, I thoroughly enjoy your videos. My Jones was for the old Icom IC-22S vhf radios frim a couple of years earlier. At one point I had restored and owned 12 of 'em. The trick was to pick them up cheap at swap meets and rewire the feed throughs on the synthesizer board and they would be good as new. Best receiver of that era!
71/72 de k6whp
dit dit
Yes the IC22S a great rig I remember when it came out it was $249.00 or something like that . I drove all the way to a big Hamfest to buy one and they were all sold out at all the vendors that 22S was a popular rig 73 Bob
@@robertsumption1243, sounds about right! About 5 years ago, I picked up one that was NIB ss in unbroken seal, etc. The guy wanted $100 but I couldn't pass it up for my collection. You know, like the guys who but unbuilt Heathkirs?
Keep up the great work, Bob!
@@warplanner8852 Thank you for your comments That would be fun finding one in an un-opened sealed box and then assembling it makes a guy wonder who bought it and why it was never assembled ... I really enjoyed assembling Heathkits the first one was a AR3 receiver when I was 15 .
Brings back memories for me. Bob. I found construction faults and fixed about 3 or 4 of them for other hams, scraped my $$ together and ordered one for myself. Got it on a Friday, started on it after dinner and had it on the air by noon Saturday. Worked great for years until it was caught up in a lightning strike I suffered at the home QTH. 73 - WB8FEQ
Yes repairing them at Heathkit about half of them had solder bridges, unsoldered connections or very loose hardware . I had this one shown here on 145.8 running 24/7 for several days and heard the Space Station twice with it . 73 Bob
Another great video Bob! I really enjoy your channel.
A little constructive recommendation.if you could zoom in on the where you are pointing on the circuit, it would be more helpful. I'm getting "old eyes".
Thanks and look forward to your next vid!
Outstanding info, young man!
Great video as always Bob - I sold you the 2036A, glad to see it received some proper care and was brought back to life!
Thank you for writing a comment These rigs bring back a lot of memories for me I guess you would say they have Nostalgia . Bob
Yes it has been running now for almost a week 24/7 so I guess it is OK . 73 Bob
Thank you for listing it on Ebay I enjoyed getting it to work . 73 Bob
Thanks for this! working on my old 2036A and also a purchased old 2036. Wonder if you have any ideas why receiver sensitiy would be rather poor on the 2036. Its not dead but way down on a given signal compared to my good 2036A.
Hi Bob, I got one a couple weeks ago that was listed as DEAD. It sure was and I had to repair every board and wire ends. I have all boards working but the PA. Must have been built by a new kit builder. Look like lots of people have had a go at it also. It is transmitting and receiving now but just low power output. Thank you for this video. Carl, AB1ZI
I had the xtal version given to me with the driver and final out. Bought over sea replacement and now works fine. Got off ebay if that happens to be the problem. If they shorted the final during installation. Just a thought.
@@mikenichols5394 Hi Mike, I also replaced the final transistors with no luck. Seem to be Q 3 not amplifying on the transmitter board.
Was a real workhorse!
I'm glad I came across this video! My first VHF rig is a 2036A that I still have along with the 2036-3 power supply and a spare 2036A.
I really think it's time to pull them off the shelf in the loft and resurrect them. Any concerns as to the life expectancy of the caps after about 25 years in storage?
ZD 101 is cracked on mine. It won’t stay keyed up . I’m hoping this is why. I’m thinking zener diode was there. The casing is gone just 2 wire stubs. These radios are built so nice I think a car running over it would only scratch it up.
Bob, I am trying to align receive section of my radio, but I don't get any movement of the S-meter while adjusting the coils! I went over the instructions many times to be sure I have proceeded correctly. Where am I going wrong? Everything has checked okay up until this section. Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Greg
Always love your videos Bob!!! You really bring a lot of excellent and rare info to us. ANy comments on the later 2 Meter xceiver Heath came out with after the 2036 series. It was the VF 7401, I think. Was it a better design?
73, Glenn WA4AOS
Great info! I'm working on one that I got free. Do you by chance know what the meter movement is? Mine is broken beyond repair. I'm guessing 0-1 ma full scale. 73s KB4GO
Can the tones be adjusted to another tone or do you have to change something else ?
How do you change the PL tone frequency ? I picked one up in great condition but cannot figure out how to put
the tones in for the repeaters in my area.
What does the micoder dtmf mic do? KC1MTR
Mine worked finely except it had terrible intermod rejection which later rigs rejected beautifully.
Having a problem with mine. After some warm up, the synth lock goes on and TP401 voltage climbs to 4 v or more and unable to adjust. After cool down all works again for several hours. Also as unit warms the TP401 voltage slowly climbs.
sounds like you have a temperature sensitive component there most likely in the little VCO box (voltage controlled oscillator ) I would take the cover off of that box turn on the Hw2036A wait for it to go out or use a hair dryer to heat it and then blow on the various components with one of those little blow cans used to blow dust out of a computer If it comes back on then you have found the temperature sensitive component or part . You can also use Freeze Mist sold in electronic stores to do this BUT the computer dusting spray cans are much easier to find and cheaper too. Good luck ! Bob
Wasn't there a 2026 as well?
Adding silicone grease to connector contacts? Not sure that is such a good idea. Tube of grease .must state that silicone is made for this kind of thing. Might be doing more harm than good. I'll wait for more comments on this from anyone. Other than that, very nice video, O.M..