Thank you very much for this video. I followed your method here and was able to successfully perform my first bushing replacements! 8 bushings on the time side of a 1913 E. Ingraham Kitchen clock. It is on the test stand now. I will run it for a few more days, then take it back apart and try the strike side. Thank you for your instruction.
After drilling to the inside of the clock plate for a bushing sometimes you get the raised brass edge around the hole. I use a KWM chamfer bit and barely hit it ( by hand ) to get any burrs off and it also allows the bushing to go in with zero issues. Plus it looks super professional.
That looks like an Ingrahm movement. I enjoy these videos because you can always learn something new. It took me over two years to buy all my clock tools. Glad that is done.
Have a Ingrahm American made mantle clock I had to put 15 bushings in. Strike and chime sides plus middle gears. The clock was filthy so everything had to go in my ultra sonic cleaner first as individual parts. Plus burnish all the gear pivots on my Unimat lathe and tear down the mainsprings, clean and re-lube. I have 13 hours in it so far. Today I can finally put the clock completely back together. I also run my clocks for a week to two weeks before handing the clock back to the customer. I get zero call backs. This one was a ton of work.
Nice going, Jim - I'm glad you talked yourself into doing a by-hand bushing! So glad I've found your channel. Looking forward to more work on some Connecticut clocks. I've got a couple "Cottage" style clocks, a couple S. Thomas "Ogees" (Both 30-hr. & 8-day.) and a half-column S. Thomas weight-driven clock. They all need work, and I'm feeling more capable than ever since watching your tutorials here. Really appreciate, take care...
great video! Any advice for dual train movements? I have a complicated Westminster chime movement with some bushings that need replacing... but I'm terrified to take it apart, even with photos.
Very Informative video.....When Fitting the Bushing, Why couldn't the Plate be Oven Heated to a few hundred degrees while the Bushing is Chilled for a Tighter Interference Fit ??
I had a lever on the Ingrahm toinght that drove me crazy. I finally got it in the correct position. The plus is I learned greatly and next time will only take me a few seconds to get it correctly into position. Always a good thing. If were not doing it, we will not learn, and if it were easy, everyone would be rebuilding clocks! Laugh.
Hi Jim, ime over here in England, and want to get into clock repair my self.l have two old clocks that require repairs ive watched more clock repair videos than I've had hot dinners.ime a retired plant fitter and have a good knowledge of how to repair things.But the only thing that puts me off, is how to make good a worn pivot hole thats gone out of roundness.in the brass plates. If you get it wrong you are in trouble.l suppose it comes with years of experience,rgs Mick.
I never punch clock plates! If it is that bad and you already have it torn down go ahead and put a bushing in it! I am also a big fan of smoothing broaches! I get real close with a cutting broach ( after I install a bushing ) and then dial it in with a smoothing broach and boy the result is excellent and the gears fly with no effort. Love my vintage German made KWM bushing machine for boring and installing bushings.
Spring let down tool like you said, Tweezers, Several different size flat head & Philips head screwdrivers, movement assembly posts, several different size pliers, Small metric socket set, & a Oil pen.
Your a great guy but this is why I would never attempt to hand bore for a bushing. Most of the clocks I work on are 70 plus years old. I would be scared to death to try this approach.
IF you're using tapered bushings. He's using Bergeon bushings, which are cylindrical, thus need a slightly undersized cylindrical hole. Therefore, broaching from both sides is necessary to produce a nearly cylindrical hole. BTW, the word is BROACH, not BROOCH, which is a piece of decorative jewelry.
@@dperry428 All bushings are tapered I used to make my own. The broach is also tapered there for you only cut from the inside as that is the side the bush is taped in from.
And you are dead wrong. All bushings are NOT tapered. Bergeon bushes are cylindrical and use reamers with parallel sides to make a cylindrical hole that is 3/100ths of a millimeter smaller than the OD of the bush. I make many of my own bushes on my lathe and make them all cylindrical. If you use a tapered bush, then the hole in the plate is broached from the inside only. So, "old TImer", this old timer is 81 years old and have been working this way since 1968.@@oldTimer-x3r
@@oldTimer-x3r You don't know your stuff. BERGEON bushings have parallel sides. They are NOT tapered. That's why the Bergeon reamers have parallel sides. If you are using a broach instead of a reamer, one should broach from BOTH sides with the hole being about 3/100ths of a millimeter smaller diameter than the OD of the bushing. That's also the size of the Bergeon reamers -- 3/100ths of a millimeter smaller than the OD of the bushing. I make many of my own bushings, too, if I have a particular size out of stock. I turn them on my smaller lathe to a diameter smaller than the hole and with parallel sides. Your statement that all bushing are tapered is utter nonsense.
@@dperry428 It is you who doesn't know what you are talking about. Parallel means straight. The reamers are tapered, they are not the same thickness from end to end. That is why you re-bush from the inside.
Thank you very much for this video. I followed your method here and was able to successfully perform my first bushing replacements! 8 bushings on the time side of a 1913 E. Ingraham Kitchen clock. It is on the test stand now. I will run it for a few more days, then take it back apart and try the strike side.
Thank you for your instruction.
Great job!
Awesome to see you do a hand bushing. Just starting my journey into wind up clock repair for my personal clocks. Thanks
After drilling to the inside of the clock plate for a bushing sometimes you get the raised brass edge around the hole. I use a KWM chamfer bit and barely hit it ( by hand ) to get any burrs off and it also allows the bushing to go in with zero issues. Plus it looks super professional.
That looks like an Ingrahm movement. I enjoy these videos because you can always learn something new. It took me over two years to buy all my clock tools. Glad that is done.
It says Ansonia on the movement
Have a Ingrahm American made mantle clock I had to put 15 bushings in. Strike and chime sides plus middle gears. The clock was filthy so everything had to go in my ultra sonic cleaner first as individual parts. Plus burnish all the gear pivots on my Unimat lathe and tear down the mainsprings, clean and re-lube. I have 13 hours in it so far. Today I can finally put the clock completely back together. I also run my clocks for a week to two weeks before handing the clock back to the customer. I get zero call backs. This one was a ton of work.
Nice going, Jim -
I'm glad you talked yourself into doing a by-hand bushing!
So glad I've found your channel.
Looking forward to more work on some Connecticut clocks.
I've got a couple "Cottage" style clocks, a couple S. Thomas "Ogees" (Both 30-hr. & 8-day.)
and a half-column S. Thomas weight-driven clock.
They all need work, and I'm feeling more capable than ever since watching your tutorials here.
Really appreciate, take care...
Clock back together and running perfectly. Yay!
great video! Any advice for dual train movements? I have a complicated Westminster chime movement with some bushings that need replacing... but I'm terrified to take it apart, even with photos.
Went ahead and subscribed. Thanks.
Very Informative video.....When Fitting the Bushing, Why couldn't the Plate be Oven Heated to a few hundred degrees while the Bushing is Chilled for a Tighter Interference Fit ??
Hi the bushings are friction fit. Anytime you heat brass it softens the brass.
I have found German clocks to be a real bear to get the clock plates back together with those tiny little gear pivots.
I had a lever on the Ingrahm toinght that drove me crazy. I finally got it in the correct position. The plus is I learned greatly and next time will only take me a few seconds to get it correctly into position. Always a good thing. If were not doing it, we will not learn, and if it were easy, everyone would be rebuilding clocks! Laugh.
P. S.
It's so cool, that after your 30 years in the profession your still enjoying yourself...
Дякую вам за працю 😊
Hi Jim, ime over here in England, and want to get into clock repair
my self.l have two old clocks that require repairs ive watched more clock repair videos than I've had hot dinners.ime a retired plant fitter and have a good knowledge of how to repair things.But the only thing that puts me off, is how to make good a worn pivot hole thats gone out of roundness.in the brass plates. If you get it wrong you are in trouble.l suppose it comes with years of experience,rgs Mick.
Check out this video; th-cam.com/video/asqwfEKbyrY/w-d-xo.html
Could you do the same with a reamer using the oil sink as your guide to center?
I never punch clock plates! If it is that bad and you already have it torn down go ahead and put a bushing in it! I am also a big fan of smoothing broaches! I get real close with a cutting broach ( after I install a bushing ) and then dial it in with a smoothing broach and boy the result is excellent and the gears fly with no effort. Love my vintage German made KWM bushing machine for boring and installing bushings.
Along with the let down tool, what other tools should a beginner start out with?
Spring let down tool like you said,
Tweezers,
Several different size flat head & Philips head screwdrivers,
movement assembly posts,
several different size pliers,
Small metric socket set,
& a Oil pen.
I'm so impressed that I am subscribing!
Thanks for subbing
Your a great guy but this is why I would never attempt to hand bore for a bushing. Most of the clocks I work on are 70 plus years old. I would be scared to death to try this approach.
Pliers on brass nuts? Guess you don’t believe in using the right tools.
Fantastic explanations! Totally enjoy the video 100%
Glad it was helpful!
You should brooch from the inside out.
IF you're using tapered bushings. He's using Bergeon bushings, which are cylindrical, thus need a slightly undersized cylindrical hole. Therefore, broaching from both sides is necessary to produce a nearly cylindrical hole. BTW, the word is BROACH, not BROOCH, which is a piece of decorative jewelry.
@@dperry428 All bushings are tapered I used to make my own. The broach is also tapered there for you only cut from the inside as that is the side the bush is taped in from.
And you are dead wrong. All bushings are NOT tapered. Bergeon bushes are cylindrical and use reamers with parallel sides to make a cylindrical hole that is 3/100ths of a millimeter smaller than the OD of the bush. I make many of my own bushes on my lathe and make them all cylindrical. If you use a tapered bush, then the hole in the plate is broached from the inside only. So, "old TImer", this old timer is 81 years old and have been working this way since 1968.@@oldTimer-x3r
@@oldTimer-x3r You don't know your stuff. BERGEON bushings have parallel sides. They are NOT tapered. That's why the Bergeon reamers have parallel sides. If you are using a broach instead of a reamer, one should broach from BOTH sides with the hole being about 3/100ths of a millimeter smaller diameter than the OD of the bushing. That's also the size of the Bergeon reamers -- 3/100ths of a millimeter smaller than the OD of the bushing. I make many of my own bushings, too, if I have a particular size out of stock. I turn them on my smaller lathe to a diameter smaller than the hole and with parallel sides. Your statement that all bushing are tapered is utter nonsense.
@@dperry428 It is you who doesn't know what you are talking about. Parallel means straight. The reamers are tapered, they are not the same thickness from end to end. That is why you re-bush from the inside.