I found that running 1 litre of mooreys oil stabiliser at every oil change has helped control the engine temps on long pulls on warm days. I know it sounds weird , but it removes the friction out of the oil in turn helps the engine oil to not get so hot. I wonder if anyone else has thought about this and tried it. Works on mine
@dunstanfernando Yeah mate it doesn't matter really wheather you put it in 1st or last , it won't take long to mix. The mooreys sticks like Teflon to all bearing surfaces. And yes I use 10 litres of oil and 1 litres mooreys oil.
@@vincentdunne7197 thanks heaps mate for enlightening me. I will definitely start doing this next time I do the oil change on her. Really appreciate it mate cheers
I honestly tell people to avoid the GQs after the headache i had with mine and roof rust. Its a design flaw takes so much time to resolve. Took half a years worth of my spare time cutting it all out, time is money. But NZ has road worthy inspections every 6 months which was the main issue, trying to hide rust every 5 months lol. Aus i dont think has regular road inspections? So rust may not be an issue as much
Yeah no issue in Aus as only need a roadworthy before initial registration. Once registered you can keep it forever without ever getting another roadworthy, as long as you keep registering it each year
Hey mate I had a lot of rust aswell in mine, me and dad renovated the roof within 2 weekends. Cut out the section and used rust eater on it,I also used a bore score to see if there was anymore hiding, used paint,I then used copper and pop rivets for structural strength where we cut out the rust, then fibre glass and finally rolled aluzinc sheets all around (covering all the sides) rear was abit annoying. Popriveted and sikaflexed it all up and cleaned up with bog to make it look factory. I also raptor coated the whole car so that helped. I guess we could’ve welded some metal where we put the cutouts but the roof is pretty thin. I also used angle alyzinc to brace the rails
@@kizzamate you in Aus? Yeah some GQs are doing better than others, sounds like yours wasnt as bad as mine. The best thing you can do for them is keep them out of the rain, mine lived outside in sth NZ which can rain for months on end, i was doing what you were doing every 5 months to pass road worthy checks, it was getting out of hand how many times i rebogged my roof lol im a year into a full restoration so you did real well sorting it in 2 weeks
@@steadybuilt7139 yeah mate I am in aus, wa. I’ll take note of that and store it in the shed from now on then. I’ve had it out side ever since I got it. Just wish I hadn’t done the windscreen myself as it’s leaking abit and I can’t figure out for the life of me where it’s coming from haha
@@kizzamate Yeah mate best way to fight off rust is to keep it dry as possible. As for the leak you need to seal those windows up even though their a rubber fit, Use "Sika 553" or any panel bond, dont use silicon. Id use masking tape around the edge first as this stuff is extremly messy. Seal all around it as wind driven rain can push water up. If still get water on floor after try sealing up any gaps on firewall as rain water travels down there, like behind brake booster etc, also remove window wipers and take that panel off below windscreen as leaves and dirt can get stuck in the rain channel and block it so rain water has nowhere to go but back into the cab
I found that running 1 litre of mooreys oil stabiliser at every oil change has helped control the engine temps on long pulls on warm days. I know it sounds weird , but it removes the friction out of the oil in turn helps the engine oil to not get so hot. I wonder if anyone else has thought about this and tried it. Works on mine
Hi mate, do you add the full 1-litre of mooreys oil stabiliser? Do you put that in first before refilling with new oil? Cheers Stan
@dunstanfernando
Yeah mate it doesn't matter really wheather you put it in 1st or last , it won't take long to mix. The mooreys sticks like Teflon to all bearing surfaces. And yes I use 10 litres of oil and 1 litres mooreys oil.
@@vincentdunne7197 thanks heaps mate for enlightening me. I will definitely start doing this next time I do the oil change on her. Really appreciate it mate cheers
Could you do a video on a GU TD42T?
12:14
good example of one have lots of room for improvement in welding.
Tb42e, may use more fuel, but just as good if not better and way cheaper to maintain in every way,
I honestly tell people to avoid the GQs after the headache i had with mine and roof rust. Its a design flaw takes so much time to resolve. Took half a years worth of my spare time cutting it all out, time is money. But NZ has road worthy inspections every 6 months which was the main issue, trying to hide rust every 5 months lol. Aus i dont think has regular road inspections? So rust may not be an issue as much
Yeah no issue in Aus as only need a roadworthy before initial registration. Once registered you can keep it forever without ever getting another roadworthy, as long as you keep registering it each year
Hey mate I had a lot of rust aswell in mine, me and dad renovated the roof within 2 weekends. Cut out the section and used rust eater on it,I also used a bore score to see if there was anymore hiding, used paint,I then used copper and pop rivets for structural strength where we cut out the rust, then fibre glass and finally rolled aluzinc sheets all around (covering all the sides) rear was abit annoying. Popriveted and sikaflexed it all up and cleaned up with bog to make it look factory. I also raptor coated the whole car so that helped. I guess we could’ve welded some metal where we put the cutouts but the roof is pretty thin. I also used angle alyzinc to brace the rails
@@kizzamate you in Aus? Yeah some GQs are doing better than others, sounds like yours wasnt as bad as mine. The best thing you can do for them is keep them out of the rain, mine lived outside in sth NZ which can rain for months on end, i was doing what you were doing every 5 months to pass road worthy checks, it was getting out of hand how many times i rebogged my roof lol im a year into a full restoration so you did real well sorting it in 2 weeks
@@steadybuilt7139 yeah mate I am in aus, wa. I’ll take note of that and store it in the shed from now on then. I’ve had it out side ever since I got it. Just wish I hadn’t done the windscreen myself as it’s leaking abit and I can’t figure out for the life of me where it’s coming from haha
@@kizzamate Yeah mate best way to fight off rust is to keep it dry as possible. As for the leak you need to seal those windows up even though their a rubber fit, Use "Sika 553" or any panel bond, dont use silicon. Id use masking tape around the edge first as this stuff is extremly messy. Seal all around it as wind driven rain can push water up. If still get water on floor after try sealing up any gaps on firewall as rain water travels down there, like behind brake booster etc, also remove window wipers and take that panel off below windscreen as leaves and dirt can get stuck in the rain channel and block it so rain water has nowhere to go but back into the cab
Great fix for the engine is a Barra swap
G35 fan and hub, jpc water pump. That’s all you need.
Jpc 😂 causes cavitation after time I went with the derk pump
Is that how running Mickey Thompson legends? Having a world of dramas with them on my Gu get a Puncher ever trip something not right with em surly
whoever did that chop needs to be put in jail. this is one of the ugliest patrols in Australia