Enjoyed watching how its done. Fortunately, we have a tyre stockest and specialist motorcycle tyre fitting centre about 20 minutes from where I live. They had a free fitting deal on my Michelin Road 6s
Hi there, Very nice video. Just have a few comments 1. Lube the leaves (locking part) of the axle nut. Dry ones can strip the thread on the axle, or worse, never come off. That has happened to one person on the forum. 2. You can use the drop center tool to remove the tire too. 3. Balance the hub first without a tire and sprocket. Just mark the heavy spot with tape. Then align the yellow dot to the tape mark. This reduces the amount of weight you have to add - sometimes it can be zero. 4. 108ft lbs is the recommended torque, but it can bugger up the adjuster blocks. The consensus on the forum is 80 ft lbs is enough. 5. Before doing the final axle tighten, squeeze on the chain to make sure the wheel is pulled forward against the adjusters both sides, then apply the torque. The chain slack in the book is wrong too... way too tight... I found 30mm to be about right. Have fun with that bike :)
Nice vid .. A few things I would add is : Go down a bit on the rear axle nut from 108 to 85 and this would be a great time to make sure the chain slack is good . The one other thing most do not do is place a wedge between the sprocket and chain " like a round screw driver " while pulling rear ward when you are tightening the axle nut this ensures both sides are up against the chain adjusters . And you do not have to remove the rear sprocket carrier while removing the tire or while balancing it .
The internet seems so divided on removing or keeping in the rear sprocket on balancing. Half the forums I looked at it said take it out. The other half said leave it in. We need a Mythbusters episode on this haha.
Swift work with the tyre fitting tool. When balancing, I now fit the sprocket and cush drive as these are additional masses that rotate with the wheel and act on the spindle. So, eg an unbalanced sprocket + carrier would be the same as adding wt to the wheel where you don't want it. The effect at high rotation speed being that the spindle/ rear of the bike becomes unstable irrespective of the wheel. All rotating masses on the spindle should be balanced.
I think we need a proper Mythbusters episode on this! When I was googling whether or not to include those while balancing, it seemed like it was a complete coin-toss. On some forums, everyone swore by removing that stuff. On other forums, everyone insisted on keeping it in for the reasons you mentioned. Eventually I just gave up on trying to find the right answer haha.
Probably only here and there... They don't seem to get a lot of attention/interest, but maybe if I look at my schedule and I have some interesting jobs coming up one day I'll bring the GoPro and a mic along :)
Ok normal tubeless tires I like it! From my 12" scooter wheels to 19" on my BMW, it's great! BUT... In order to fit the BMW wheel I had to buy an extra narrow axle. And in order to fit the Vespa I had to buy a hub part... But for the rest of the bikes that come through the garage it's great. Except... They have some videos showing how to use it on tires with tubes... Good luck! I just bring my tubed tires in for a shop to swap. I'll do a video over the winter on what I love and hate about it.
Hey guys! You can get the Black Widow Pro balancer for $59 here: htts://discount-ramps.sjv.io/balancer
Enjoyed watching how its done. Fortunately, we have a tyre stockest and specialist motorcycle tyre fitting centre about 20 minutes from where I live.
They had a free fitting deal on my Michelin Road 6s
Free install? Nice!
That was pretty slick, fastest way to save a couple hundred bucks without leaving home.
Thanks bud. Tried it with a tubed tire this week, unfortunately it didn't go so slick :( Now I know for next time.
Good information!
Thanks!
Hi there, Very nice video. Just have a few comments
1. Lube the leaves (locking part) of the axle nut. Dry ones can strip the thread on the axle, or worse, never come off. That has happened to one person on the forum.
2. You can use the drop center tool to remove the tire too.
3. Balance the hub first without a tire and sprocket. Just mark the heavy spot with tape. Then align the yellow dot to the tape mark. This reduces the amount of weight you have to add - sometimes it can be zero.
4. 108ft lbs is the recommended torque, but it can bugger up the adjuster blocks. The consensus on the forum is 80 ft lbs is enough.
5. Before doing the final axle tighten, squeeze on the chain to make sure the wheel is pulled forward against the adjusters both sides, then apply the torque. The chain slack in the book is wrong too... way too tight... I found 30mm to be about right.
Have fun with that bike :)
Good tips, thanks! I never thought about balancing JUST the wheel first, that's not a bad idea. I'll give it a shot next time.
Nice vid .. A few things I would add is : Go down a bit on the rear axle nut from 108 to 85 and this would be a great time to make sure the chain slack is good . The one other thing most do not do is place a wedge between the sprocket and chain " like a round screw driver " while pulling rear ward when you are tightening the axle nut this ensures both sides are up against the chain adjusters . And you do not have to remove the rear sprocket carrier while removing the tire or while balancing it .
The internet seems so divided on removing or keeping in the rear sprocket on balancing. Half the forums I looked at it said take it out. The other half said leave it in. We need a Mythbusters episode on this haha.
Great tutorial! Changing the rear tire on the Yamaha Tracer/FJ09 made it so much easier with these tips. We sent you an email, take a look.
You can just email me... No need to blow smoke up my 🍑...
Swift work with the tyre fitting tool. When balancing, I now fit the sprocket and cush drive as these are additional masses that rotate with the wheel and act on the spindle. So, eg an unbalanced sprocket + carrier would be the same as adding wt to the wheel where you don't want it. The effect at high rotation speed being that the spindle/ rear of the bike becomes unstable irrespective of the wheel. All rotating masses on the spindle should be balanced.
I think we need a proper Mythbusters episode on this! When I was googling whether or not to include those while balancing, it seemed like it was a complete coin-toss. On some forums, everyone swore by removing that stuff. On other forums, everyone insisted on keeping it in for the reasons you mentioned. Eventually I just gave up on trying to find the right answer haha.
Hi, are you going to do more towing vids 😊
Probably only here and there... They don't seem to get a lot of attention/interest, but maybe if I look at my schedule and I have some interesting jobs coming up one day I'll bring the GoPro and a mic along :)
How do you enjoy using the Rabaconda ?
Ok normal tubeless tires I like it! From my 12" scooter wheels to 19" on my BMW, it's great! BUT...
In order to fit the BMW wheel I had to buy an extra narrow axle. And in order to fit the Vespa I had to buy a hub part... But for the rest of the bikes that come through the garage it's great.
Except... They have some videos showing how to use it on tires with tubes... Good luck! I just bring my tubed tires in for a shop to swap.
I'll do a video over the winter on what I love and hate about it.