Thanks Edward. That was a good, clear explanation of something I always found quite confusing & had difficulty remembering the right way to go. The side with the higher gauge value needs to have the linkage lengthened & the equal+opposite adjustment on the other side.
Great vid bud just joined your channel we speed run only but I’ve been using your set up tips in are effort to go straight and fast H and w racing channel
Great video. Just looking at the video and how you were adjusting the bar, doing the opposite to the other sway kept putting you in the same position from when u started. By just lowering or raising one side would have gotten you the results you were looking for on first try. “Measure twice, cut once.”
I normally use this method but with more weight (arms and transmission connected). With less weight the other side are going to go up more reactive so yo get less precision.
I agree with your method, this is also better. More weight on arms and fully assembled car is better to do adjustment with. The weight difference in each side and friction differences also need to be take into account.
Yes, it can. Even straight out of the package. You should always test and make sure the roll bar is tweak free. You can do this by placing the roll bar on a flat piece of glass.
where did you get the plexiglass plate, does it matter how high or low the ends of the anti roll bar are set at? thanks great informative video like allways.
The plexiglass is a chassis tweak plate by a company called TN Racing. The roll bar ends will be slightly different in length. The most important thing is to make sure the roll bar is tweak free.
This method IS precise... Until you put all upper arms and other parts on the car. Then the weight difference and difference in friction on parts on left to right for each arm will again be different and you need to adjust it again. I bet it will be off when the car is fully assembled without tires and you retake the measurement.
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I watched this and I don't even have an RC car.
@Mustafa Kyler Do you respond to your other sock accounts often?
Thanks Edward. That was a good, clear explanation of something I always found quite confusing & had difficulty remembering the right way to go. The side with the higher gauge value needs to have the linkage lengthened & the equal+opposite adjustment on the other side.
Great vid bud just joined your channel we speed run only but I’ve been using your set up tips in are effort to go straight and fast H and w racing channel
Yes you are right long video but profession takes time job well done explaining and showing keep up the great work👌😎👍
Thanks!
Great video. Just looking at the video and how you were adjusting the bar, doing the opposite to the other sway kept putting you in the same position from when u started. By just lowering or raising one side would have gotten you the results you were looking for on first try. “Measure twice, cut once.”
I normally use this method but with more weight (arms and transmission connected). With less weight the other side are going to go up more reactive so yo get less precision.
I agree with your method, this is also better. More weight on arms and fully assembled car is better to do adjustment with. The weight difference in each side and friction differences also need to be take into account.
Edward,
Why are you not making videos any more? Do you run vbc d10? Make a video on that build.
Thanks I enjoy your work.
It is what I want to know. Thanks a lot. :)
Glad this video helped you out.
Thanks for making this video
You're quite welcome! Please enjoy all the other videos I have and will make.
have you seen the anti roll bar set up on the new race opt mts t3
toys have come a long way...who would imagine people can get hooked on RC
The grud screw at the front of the inside rear suspension arm obsolete with anti-roll bar.
Can the anti roll bar wire be warped over time that makes it hard to balance both sides
Yes, it can. Even straight out of the package. You should always test and make sure the roll bar is tweak free. You can do this by placing the roll bar on a flat piece of glass.
How about a Drafting Compass, make 2 holes in table , attach some weight on cable both side.
Let's see it happen like this when the car is built ☝🏼👇🏼 Turnbuckles are a thing 🤔
where did you get the plexiglass plate, does it matter how high or low the ends of the anti roll bar are set at? thanks great informative video like allways.
The plexiglass is a chassis tweak plate by a company called TN Racing. The roll bar ends will be slightly different in length. The most important thing is to make sure the roll bar is tweak free.
Thanks for the reply. I use all your set up advice, thanks for the help
By threading up and threading down you mean to tighten and loosen correct?
Threading up means to lower the height of the arm. Threading down means to raise up the height of the arm.
I know I’m off topic but why is it that almost every TH-camr is Canadian?
This method IS precise... Until you put all upper arms and other parts on the car. Then the weight difference and difference in friction on parts on left to right for each arm will again be different and you need to adjust it again. I bet it will be off when the car is fully assembled without tires and you retake the measurement.